Time is very precious at the moment, so any time I can get to work on engines is used to the full! Yeah, I've seen lots of people struggle with keys and valve caps on these, but so far this engine hasn't put up a fight. The bit I am dreading is getting the big end cap off, hardly any space to work. Take care, Phill.
Good video. I have one of these i got half restored (yeah right) but think i am going to have to do the same as you and bite the bullet and strip it down. Don't worry about timing cam, you have to do it by eye when reassembling, just get your valves rocking right and push the gear in. Many a bad running A you will find the valves not timed right. Looking forward to next video.
Thanks, yes I stamped the keys and hubs so it all goes back right. The ends of the crank are marked as well so it should be easy enough to get it all back in the right place. The keys would have been individually fitted to their respective flywheel at the factory.
To repaint it mainly, it's a scruffy old thing and has had a couple of previous "restorations" where it hasn't been taken apart. I like my engines to show a bit of detail, bare metal nuts and bolts and so on. It needs new rings as well so whilst it's apart I thought a repaint was in order : )
ah those valve caps are considerably bigger then I thought. I was thinking they might be an 1" but those look to be a good 2" at least. Don't think ill have any copper rings that size in the plumbing bits. Im thinking sealing rings for plug holes in baths and sinks. But have a feeling those have used plastic seals for many moons. Ill have a look and see what I can turn up. Looking good. Looking forward to next part :) Dan
Thanks! I can't remember exactly, when I dig out the manual I can find the bore and stroke measurements, but the cylinder is about 900cc with a total swept volume of around 1000cc. Phill.
Yeah guess so long as they come out in one piece! 500 videos, I hadn't noticed....if it wasn't snowing a celebratory crank up would be in order :) Take care.
They sure are chunky, 2" sounds about right but I will check it. It would be great if you can find something, otherwise I'll just go through SEP. Not as expensive as I thought they were on those rings. Cheers Dan! Phill.
Hi Phill, Firstly, I have to thank you for all the UA-cam videos that you have produced over the years - an inspiration to me and I'm sure many others. I seek your advice regarding the removal of a valve cap, on my Lister B Junior B209 c1935 Spec 106/12H. I have used (bar, pipe and stillsons) as per your video, one came out with a little extra muscle power. The other is quite stubborn, I have tried heat freezing, rattle gun, all to no avail. It has been suggested, that I insert a square bar and give it a blow with a hammer, to break the seal. Would have a suggestion, as I would be devastated if I damaged the Lister. Kind Regards Peter- Sydney Australia. A 65 year old novice with my first restoration.
Hi Peter, thanks for the kind words. one trick that is often successful is to try tightening the bung first - its often far easier to break the rust that way. failing that, get the brass bung as hot as you can and soak it with diesel. it may take a few attempts - good luck! Phill.
+steamwally I should add, wait until the bung has cooled before trying to remove it, the heat should help pull the diesel down into the threads, the two metals having different expansion rates.
Hi , Can you help me again , I need to remove the flat belt take off pulleys from my engine there is one each side until I do this i can't get to the Gib keys to remove the flywheels and i can't see anything holding them on , no side screws no flywheel bolts , baffles me , best to find out before causing damage, your vids are helping me imensly thanks for doing a great job
Hi Alan, Pulleys can be fitted in all sorts of ways, it's difficult to help without seeing the engine however. The pulley may have a parallel key, tapered gib key, it may have set screws, it may be a split clamp type pulley or simply a tight press fit onto the shaft. On the Junior the original pulley bolts to the governor side flywheel, I assume yours has had something different fitted? Worst case scenario is that you have to smash the pulley off, but try pulling and shocking it off before getting too drastic. Plenty of penetrating oil/ diesel will help. Be aware that the pulley may shatter if subjected to a heavy duty puller.
Hi,I'm Mike.Please, I would appreciate some advice on removing the magneto sprocket/cam drive gear. It is the one with the blind key.I have destroyed one (like, totally destroyed), and the second on a donor engine is very stubborn as well.ThanksMike
Hi. I've just picked up an AK, so am finding your videos very useful references (also subscribed). Mine is a 1933 to run on petrol/paraffin. I've got a repro handbook but cannot see any indication of where the paraffin goes!
Very nice, you don't see those very often. Your engine should have two fuel chambers on the carburetor - one fed by the fuel tank and the other you manually fill with petrol for starting. Off load, you may need a couple of fills with petrol for it to change over well. Best of luck, and enjoy!
Thanks for your reply. I was looking for two fuel tanks...! I understand now - the fuel tank is filled with paraffin, the carb half-filled with petrol (I can see a level guide inside) and when the engine heats up using that petrol there is a tap on the fuel line to switch to paraffin. The other side of the carb has a brass screw tap which says empty/shut (which goes back into the fuel tank). Quite confusing, but having just re-read the instruction book again it does all start to make sense!
Hi again the starting side pulley is exactly the same as the one on your engine in the video , could you please tell me how that was removed , Many Thanks , Alan
If that's the case it just unbolts - you should find the securing nuts on the inside of the flywheel. If the same pulley is fitted on the governor side then the governor yoke mechanism will come free when these bolts are removed.
Y in your right mind would u want to take apart a perfectly good running engine and put it back to get her JUST TO MAKE a UA-cam clip I mean seriously if its a running motor and one of the best looking ones Ive seen
The restoration wasn't carried out "just to make a youtube clip", rather videos were made of the various stages of restoration - A to document progress and B to help others. The engine was running, but had spent many years out in the open - any engineer with a bit of nous about them should be able to strip and rebuild an engine like this without any problem. Sure enough, when taken apart it was found that bearing journals had suffered water marks and the crank-case was full of oily goo. The exhaust valve seat was in a very bad way, the piston rings and valve guides were worn out and the magneto required a full service. Lots of other repairs were carried out, the engine stripped to bare metal and re-painted, every single components cleaned till it was spotless and a new timber cart built. 8 months of hard work and the engine is running and looking better - I am also safe in the knowledge that there is nothing mechanically wrong with it. That hard work had paid off and the engine attracted lots of attention at the shows last year. An engine might run well, but until you take it apart and look at each component individually you won't find all the faults you couldn't see - if you don't catch them early, they will catch you!
G,Day Mike i was given a Lister B Junior engine do you know where i can buy a workshop manual and what would it be worth its in working cond a 650 rpm 5 hP CHEERS ,.
Time is very precious at the moment, so any time I can get to work on engines is used to the full!
Yeah, I've seen lots of people struggle with keys and valve caps on these, but so far this engine hasn't put up a fight. The bit I am dreading is getting the big end cap off, hardly any space to work.
Take care,
Phill.
Good Phill, You was lucky. Bout keys was easy to remove compered with all my engine! Even the flywheel! Keep it up with the resto!
Nothing crude about getting that key out just taking care of business. 500 great videos.
Good video. I have one of these i got half restored (yeah right) but think i am going to have to do the same as you and bite the bullet and strip it down. Don't worry about timing cam, you have to do it by eye when reassembling, just get your valves rocking right and push the gear in. Many a bad running A you will find the valves not timed right. Looking forward to next video.
Nice engine, Phill. I'm sure it will be even nicer when you are through freshening it up.
They are nice engines, good design. Yes I'll repaint it, most likely just Lister Mid Brunswick Green.
Thanks, yes I stamped the keys and hubs so it all goes back right. The ends of the crank are marked as well so it should be easy enough to get it all back in the right place. The keys would have been individually fitted to their respective flywheel at the factory.
To repaint it mainly, it's a scruffy old thing and has had a couple of previous "restorations" where it hasn't been taken apart. I like my engines to show a bit of detail, bare metal nuts and bolts and so on. It needs new rings as well so whilst it's apart I thought a repaint was in order : )
ah those valve caps are considerably bigger then I thought. I was thinking they might be an 1" but those look to be a good 2" at least. Don't think ill have any copper rings that size in the plumbing bits. Im thinking sealing rings for plug holes in baths and sinks. But have a feeling those have used plastic seals for many moons. Ill have a look and see what I can turn up.
Looking good. Looking forward to next part :)
Dan
Thanks!
I can't remember exactly, when I dig out the manual I can find the bore and stroke measurements, but the cylinder is about 900cc with a total swept volume of around 1000cc.
Phill.
Thanks, hope so!
Cheers.
Thanks, ok guess the cam timing shouldn't be too bad then, if I line everything up before replacing the cover it should be pretty simple then.
Cheers
Thanks Phill, I will let you know how it goes.
Yeah guess so long as they come out in one piece!
500 videos, I hadn't noticed....if it wasn't snowing a celebratory crank up would be in order :)
Take care.
They sure are chunky, 2" sounds about right but I will check it. It would be great if you can find something, otherwise I'll just go through SEP. Not as expensive as I thought they were on those rings.
Cheers Dan!
Phill.
Hi Phill, Firstly, I have to thank you for all the UA-cam videos that you have produced over the years - an inspiration to me and I'm sure many others. I seek your advice regarding the removal of a valve cap, on my Lister B Junior B209 c1935 Spec 106/12H. I have used (bar, pipe and stillsons) as per your video, one came out with a little extra muscle power. The other is quite stubborn, I have tried heat freezing, rattle gun, all to no avail. It has been suggested, that I insert a square bar and give it a blow with a hammer, to break the seal. Would have a suggestion, as I would be devastated if I damaged the Lister. Kind Regards Peter- Sydney Australia. A 65 year old novice with my first restoration.
Hi Peter, thanks for the kind words. one trick that is often successful is to try tightening the bung first - its often far easier to break the rust that way. failing that, get the brass bung as hot as you can and soak it with diesel. it may take a few attempts - good luck!
Phill.
+steamwally I should add, wait until the bung has cooled before trying to remove it, the heat should help pull the diesel down into the threads, the two metals having different expansion rates.
Thanks Joseph, yeah it has been easy so far......it won't last lol
congrats on passing 500 videos.
I was about to ask if you would mark the Keys when you said you would I guess they would be matched to each side.
Hi , Can you help me again , I need to remove the flat belt take off pulleys from my engine there is one each side until I do this i can't get to the Gib keys to remove the flywheels and i can't see anything holding them on , no side screws no flywheel bolts , baffles me , best to find out before causing damage, your vids are helping me imensly thanks for doing a great job
Hi Alan,
Pulleys can be fitted in all sorts of ways, it's difficult to help without seeing the engine however.
The pulley may have a parallel key, tapered gib key, it may have set screws, it may be a split clamp type pulley or simply a tight press fit onto the shaft. On the Junior the original pulley bolts to the governor side flywheel, I assume yours has had something different fitted?
Worst case scenario is that you have to smash the pulley off, but try pulling and shocking it off before getting too drastic. Plenty of penetrating oil/ diesel will help. Be aware that the pulley may shatter if subjected to a heavy duty puller.
Hi,I'm Mike.Please, I would appreciate some advice on removing the magneto sprocket/cam drive gear. It is the one with the blind key.I have destroyed one (like, totally destroyed), and the second on a donor engine is very stubborn as well.ThanksMike
always nice lister a,s you will re paint it to?
That's a nice engine. What capacity is it ?
Hi. I've just picked up an AK, so am finding your videos very useful references (also subscribed). Mine is a 1933 to run on petrol/paraffin. I've got a repro handbook but cannot see any indication of where the paraffin goes!
Very nice, you don't see those very often. Your engine should have two fuel chambers on the carburetor - one fed by the fuel tank and the other you manually fill with petrol for starting. Off load, you may need a couple of fills with petrol for it to change over well.
Best of luck, and enjoy!
Thanks for your reply. I was looking for two fuel tanks...! I understand now - the fuel tank is filled with paraffin, the carb half-filled with petrol (I can see a level guide inside) and when the engine heats up using that petrol there is a tap on the fuel line to switch to paraffin. The other side of the carb has a brass screw tap which says empty/shut (which goes back into the fuel tank). Quite confusing, but having just re-read the instruction book again it does all start to make sense!
You've got it, have fun! Lets see a video of the engine too....
Yes or a removable plate underneath would have done the trick.....
Hi again the starting side pulley is exactly the same as the one on your engine in the video , could you please tell me how that was removed , Many Thanks , Alan
If that's the case it just unbolts - you should find the securing nuts on the inside of the flywheel. If the same pulley is fitted on the governor side then the governor yoke mechanism will come free when these bolts are removed.
Y in your right mind would u want to take apart a perfectly good running engine and put it back to get her JUST TO MAKE a UA-cam clip I mean seriously if its a running motor and one of the best looking ones Ive seen
The restoration wasn't carried out "just to make a youtube clip", rather videos were made of the various stages of restoration - A to document progress and B to help others.
The engine was running, but had spent many years out in the open - any engineer with a bit of nous about them should be able to strip and rebuild an engine like this without any problem.
Sure enough, when taken apart it was found that bearing journals had suffered water marks and the crank-case was full of oily goo. The exhaust valve seat was in a very bad way, the piston rings and valve guides were worn out and the magneto required a full service. Lots of other repairs were carried out, the engine stripped to bare metal and re-painted, every single components cleaned till it was spotless and a new timber cart built.
8 months of hard work and the engine is running and looking better - I am also safe in the knowledge that there is nothing mechanically wrong with it. That hard work had paid off and the engine attracted lots of attention at the shows last year.
An engine might run well, but until you take it apart and look at each component individually you won't find all the faults you couldn't see - if you don't catch them early, they will catch you!
G,Day Mike i was given a Lister B Junior engine do you know where i can buy a workshop manual and what would it be worth its in working cond a 650 rpm 5 hP CHEERS ,.
Hi Phill, How do I send a PM to you>Regards Peter
Hi Peter, no idea...I haven't worked that out myself yet! what can I do for you?
Phill.
Any chance you have an email address.
I have an old lister that I could do with some help with please 🙏