After watching this video i now know why my belt failed after 1 month. I had someone do it for me and one month later my belt is shredded.....gonna be tackling this this after noon...thanks for the video
gereral1 so it has been 3 weeks since i did mine, and with the problem of it going after month after the other guy did it, i checked mine this morining and it is shreeding again! The belt has shifted toward the motor and had wore about 1/4 of the belt off! The belt, idler, tensioner, water pump and crank pully have all been replaced.....i am fristrated and dont know what could cause the shfting.
Jay Reynolds II water pump has nothing to do with the problem. do you have play in the crank sprocket at bottom engine? aThe tiny tensioner spring that puts tension on the belt....is it installed like in my video, is the bolt that holds it tight ? nothing stripped in the bolts that hold the tensioner? Did you count the teeth on the right side between the cam and crank sprocjets. I saw a long time ago an issue inside the valve cover that could cause a resistance on the cam sprocket from the timing chain cvt tensioner that could cause the teeth to strip. At this point I would take it to a shop and mentioned this. any valve restrictions or timing chain issues can make its way to the cam sprocket and tear the teeth off the belt.
I realize the waer pump has nothing to do with it.....was just listing everything that has been changed. It is no stripping the teeth, the belt is shifting and shaving the side of the belt off. something is causing the belt to not track true. and yes the tensionter is tight.
Excellent set of videos , I don't know anything about cars and today I learned a lot, I just need to learn how to use torque, thank you very much, and may God continue to give you lots of health and life...😊😊
Thanks for posting these videos. My local dealer on Long Island wanted $590.00 just to do the timing belt. This series of videos enabled me to do the timing, ac, alternator, and power stearing belts for $140.00. I really appreciated the detailed tutorial. It saved me a nice chunk of change. Stay Awesome.
Great video. The easy way to tighten the crack bolt is to use your impact. With the spark plugs in place, you can tighten the bolt with your impact until you start to turn the engine over. You will never strip the threads because the engine will start to turn way before you have enough force to strip threads. The engine turns clock-wise, so the bolt is never getting any rotational force that would unscrew it. I hope that helps to save you some time. I worked on hundreds of Hyundai’s in NY and virtually everyone did it that way.
I found the total of three tutorials extremely helpful. i own a hyundai matrix and have to watch a few more as i have to replace the water pump and the fuel filter situated in the fuel tank. also i think the matrix/lavita has a hydraulic tensioner on the timing belt ( not sure yet) Thanks again for the time and effort you put into making the three videos Martin Brandt
Just finished this job. Also changed out water pump,cam/crank seals, ac idler pulley and belts.Thanks for the videos. Hardest part was the spring and getting the two water pump pulleys on and lined up correctly. Used long 45 degree pliers to pry the spring on there, took about 5 tries.
Mike Bezrukov Glad to help out. Look for more advanced videos coming this spring. I will be getting into the evap system, door locks and mirror motors, engine compression testing, coolant pressure testing, thermostat replacement. Talk about the rad cap and fuel cap and how its sealed under pressure. The horn system. These videos will cover electronic testing and show step by step how to fix these systems on your own..........
This is awesome, not many video's on this car out there, yet so many people are driving these cars. I guess most of them just throw the car away after the first sign of trouble or major maintenance. I took it to the dealer and I think i left $800 CND poorer after all was said and done. You'll never leave the shop for 200, especially if the part it self is $89.
Thanks for the video it was big, big help. Usually I have to stumble around to fix things like that, after watching it was straight forward. It was my son’s car and took the 2 of us 5 hours from start to finish….. PS I used the allan key method to loosen and tighten the harmonic bolt, I'm just a back yard mechanic and don't have an impact gun. Thanks general1
To remove the tensionner's spring it can be a good idea to loosen the bolt that holds it but not to remove it, pry the spring out, then remove the bolt. This way you don't have to worry about the spring flying off. To put it back on you can also use two screwdrivers instead of pliers, it's easier to slide it on this way. But hey great vids man i'm just sharing my tips ;) wouldn't had done it without them.
That's correct. I also found out through further investigation that the spring that holds the tension does not sit flush on the block so it does not tighten which leads me to believe that the spring is bent. I ordered a new spring, bolt, and spacer from hyundai. The belt had some slack so I assume that's why I could not time it correctly.
The more views and subscribers the more I want to add more detailed videos for this car. My next video going up is the teardown of the power mirror. testing of the mirror motor and pin configurations. Wheb I can get 300 bucks I am going to purchase a uscope and make videos on how to do hmaservice testing off all the sensors on this car ;)
The spark plugs shown in this video. I bought these ngk plugs from hyundai dealer parts department. I bought bosh platium tip plug to video review aftermarket plugs to see if oe type plugs can work as well. I will run them for 1 month remove them and see if there is a proper burn and see if there is misfires or acceleration issues. This review migjt answer many !uestions on single and 4 termimal plugs
All trades, you video was pretty good lots of detail. Saw that you had some challenges in locking the harmonic balancer. What you can use is a pipe wrench with an old radiator hose to prevent teeth marks and lock the handle on the cross member.
I still dont understand the concept of Marking the timing BELT .because the new belt can go on in any one of the hundreds of teeth. The belt does not need to be set on any particular tooth, its the cam & crankshaft etc ...........the engine needs TDC with belt on ..... So marking the old belt makes no sense to me. can someone make sense of it? why do I need to mark my OLD belt???
my man! i swear bro, i am having the exact same question... my first time doing a timing job and i cannot understand the compulsion most have about marking the belts/transferring the marks ... and quite frankly, i feel it has kind of messed up my ability to tackle this job appropriately... definitely lost time....i can only see marking it to make sense if perhaps you're re-using it,.. but still, only the direction it was traveling makes sense still.... a shop put my mother in law's Gates belt on with the writing upside down, so i copied it against my own intuition.... now that it's on, i wish i would have switched it ... because even if it lasts several years, but then something like a pump or whatever fails, i could see her talking the #2 about an upside down belt the mechanic said was wrong ...& the last thing i need, is to star in a true crime episode.
just to add, for whatever reason, i couldn't get my belt to match the marks...off by like 1 or 2 teeth... nobody mentions what happens if u don't fix this... so perhaps the lack of an explanation ANYWHERE on that for the last 2 decades really, is the Litmus Test proving u really only need to align everything using the crank.
In part 2 , you say you need to set TDC before pulling the Harm. Balancer off. I saw the marks on the plastic lower cover , but my Hb pulley is so rusted there are no marks on there . Then in this vid it shows you can set TDC after the HB is pulled off which would make it much easier to set TDC cause you can see the marks to line up. What is the reason for setting TDC before pulling off the HB cause most cars in the north are going to have rusted pulleys like mine with no marks. Thanks for the video btw
Great video series! I will watch it again a few times but feel like you explained this procedure well enough for me to take it on. Thank you very much for your video series! Very well presented. Will subscribe and look forward to your other videos!
+Jb B This series took 18 hrs to edit in post and about 5 hrs to record. Would have had this done in 1 hour and half but having to change my gloves, grab the camera, switch angles, put a new pair of gloves on, switch the tripod.... its a pain in the butt. Do not forget to watch the old 3 belts replacement video as you will need to take these 3 off as well to get to the timing belt.
Will do. My wife's car needs a few of the repairs you have covered. Just yesterday I took her car in for an oil change ($25.00) and they quoted me $180.00 to replace the spark plugs. I just about feel over as you can imagine. Went to my local NAPA and for the iridum (spelling?) were $14.00 each and now viewing your video I can save a bundle! Thank you very much for your videos, extremely helpful.
So ..........even though we have TDC perfect ........and now have the belt On .... when we release the tensioner, that alone with throw us out of time by a tooth? How can we counteract what the tensioner does, so that when we release the tensioner its still TDC ? SHOULD BE PUT IT ON 1 TOOTH RETARTED? or 1 tooth untarted? last question......... Will the tensioner just putting tension actually cause the timing to go out ??
Sounds like bent valves. Going to cost your 800 to 1000 bucks to pull the head and re-seat the valves and replace the valves. I'm sorry to hear this happened to you.
***** Question, I rotated the crankshaft 4 times and my marks are not aligning.I am off by one tooth. I had to reinstall the head from bent valves now I am doing the belt. Any help would be great. Thanks
do not start the engine until both tdc are aligned perfect. do you feel binding on rotation? Its normal to feel resistance for 2 1 rotation then its like it rotates easier on the second rotation. This is because the compression no compression stroke. One tooth will not damage the valves but I suggest lining it up perfect to prevent damage BEFORE you start the car.
a minor back rotation of one tooth is not going to hurt anything. Just don't go back too much as Hyundai states to rotate the engine clockwise when testing TDC and doing the final rotation test to seat the timing belt and feel for binding before starting the engine.
Tried helicoil kit. Did not work to rethread stripped hole where tension spring goes. Cant get a drill in there to drill out, only a tap. Even after i got the new coil in there the bolt only tightens so much which leaves plenty of play in that tension spring.
honestly I would not attempt this job without an impact. you could try the belt pinch method reversed or put a socket on the balancer bolt and use a sledge hammer to quickly tap the socket handle to break it loose like an impact would. Worse case get a shop to loosen then tighten just enough to get home to remove with the tap method. The belt method will work if you can find a long enough belt to wrap around the alternator pulley and the balancer. Pinch it at the top instead of the bottom like shown in the video. Use a long bar to get more torque and a jack stand to support away from the wheel well.
+gereral1 I pick up an impact gun. I love it. Worked like a charm. Still I have a problem. Many of the teeth from the belt were done by the crank gear. I can set the TDC for the crank shaft, but the camshaft will only turn so far and I cannot get it back to TDC. I saw a video about loosening the bolts on the Camshaft, but it said there was a specific order. Any idea what that might be? Thanks, your videos are great!
Jeff Hopkins Are you trying to change the cam seal? Did your timing belt skip before taking it apart? goto Hyundai forums and sign up and start a topic and show some screen shots so I can understand what you mean. If your not sure how the valves are timed you can watch a youtube video showing you the internal operation an interface engine. The cam and crank dots are set then you release the tension off the belt. Chalk marks to make sure if the crank retards a tooth. That way when you add tension its advances back to its TDC. Its hard to help on a youtube message board.
+gereral1 i have registered and posted on hyundai forums under Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum > Hyundai Models > Accent Forums. (Please Post In The Correct Sub Forum For The Year Of Your Vehicle) > MC (2006-2011) Accent > 2008 Accent Timing belt is that correct?
thanks for the vid. very helpful. took about 6 hours. 2010 accent, 70K. Belt looked brand new. I drive conservatively though. Used air impact to get crank bolt off. I assume that its not necessary to mark old and new belt with chalk as long as engine is Top Dead Center when the new belt is placed on...I think you are saying that the chalk marks simply ensure that you don't stetch the belt and insert into the wrong corresponding tooth? also if cam shaft pulley mark is top dead center, is it even possible for the crank shaft pully mark on the bottom not also to be tdc? If you turn the crank shaft without the belt the cam shaft turns also. they can't be independently adjusted. the hardest part of the job was getting the ac and alternator belt off without seeing that second video. by the way, the Chilton's manual sucks! doesn't even have a diagram of the belt configuration.
I cover all 3 belts in the other video series. It is possible to adjust each separate. The chalk marks are for a second check. The timing will move as tesnsion is taken off the belt. The chalk is just an extra guide in case a first timer puts the belt on a tooth off. The chalk is not needed if you feel sure about tdc. Just think you just saved a ton of money!
What is the purpose of rotating engine to line up timing marks? Seems if I mark old belt with chalk and count teeth, transfer to new belt, I should be good. Is there something I'm missing?
Great job- how many hours did it take you? Looks like plenty of work even with proper tools and tight quarters as well. I have a 2009 with only 38,000 miles but the dealer says replace due to age- they told me about 550.00 not sure what that includes though.
No matter what I do, whenever I go to put the belt back on the crank sprocket moves. I had to put it back together with the crank 1 tooth past TDC with cam at TDC. Now it's running rich and cut my MPG in half. How did you get around not letting the crank move? Or do I just suck?
By marking belt lining up chalk marks. Mark belt so the tooth matches. Set tdc marks and remove belt. Do NOT touch crank cam after belts off. Put belt on release tension tell spring presses against belt. Then tighten torque 2 rev with break bar . Your belt has to have The right size. I think I covered how many teeth on belt in video. Make sure u have to proper kit. The crank will retard Abit once belt goes back on. Those chaulk marks are key
@@MickyTicky2x4 don't worry about it's Mark moving. Follow the chalk marks on belt and sprockets. It will return to it's proper position. If it does not hold your old belt side by side with new one. Are they SAME size?
Hey man. Great video. I have a 2008 accent, same exact car and I'm going to do a timing belt on it. While I do it I want to replace the water pump like u suggested. I also want to do a coolant flush. My question is, should I do the coolant flush prior to doing timing belt and water pump or after? If I flush before and just leave coolant out to do water pump, can I still do start test for timing belt without damaging engine? Thanks for all the detailed videos man. Great job! Also should I go ahead and do a valve cover gasket while I'm in there? And how hard is that job? Hyundai told me I need a new valve cover gasket but should I do all that at same time or do u think that's too much to attempt at once?
If your replacing water pump drain rad. Do timing belt and pump. Put balancer on without covers. Do the test after filling rad with water. After belt test OK run car and check pump for leaks. If good seal take balancer off put covers on then balancer. Then follow my flush video after as you WILL have to remove trapped air in coolant system. Valve cover you must buy Hyundai sealant to apply to the ends of the gasket to prevent leaks after you put valve cover on. Make sure all oil is cleaned up where the timing parts are before putting new valve cover on and timing belt covers (lower and upper) Hyundai forums I have a good write up on the valve cover and hmaservice article on it. My name is Ikilledbarbie on those forums. Have use the search on forums to find it. I've posted 1500 plus replies so I don't remember the link. Good luck with this job. Just done testing replacing alternator and video will be released Sat sun this week.
How u said after timing belt start test run car and check pump for leaks, the water won't circulate thru the pump if the belt isn't on it right? So will I have to put all the belts back on then check pump for leaks?
Well what do u think? I bought my accent with 145k miles and it now has 160k miles. I don't kno if pump has ever been replaced. Should I go ahead and replace it or just leave it alone for now?
you do not need to remove the valve cover. There are 2 parts, tensioner and idler that's it. timing belt ac belt and alternator belt. remember to line up the marks and count the teeth on belt before you take it off. The tension spring on the tensioner is perfect to set the tension. Then tighten the bolt to the tensioner.
Hey there i have a 2001 accent. While changing the timing belt I accidently unscrewed the spring bolt and the spring came loose. I then tried to place it back however the screw wont torque straight or nudge. If continusly torquing, all it does is keep turning with no resistance. My instructor also said its fine to not have one or do I just need a new bolt. Its the same spring as yours. Thanks general1
You have a stripped bolt hole. You can use a helicoil kit to re-tap the bolt hole if you ever plan on using the spring again. The spring is responsible for placing the proper tension on the belt. Once you torque down the tensioner the spring becomes useless. Make sure you have enough tension on the belt if the spring is compromised. You can Google Heli-coil kit to see what i'm talking about. Good luck with you repair. Timing belt job is not all that hard. You should use a torque wrench to prevent stripping of the threads like what happened to you. Tension should be no more that 1/4 inch past the bolt as shown in my video on the right side of the timing belt. Verify that when the tensioner and the tension side of the timing belt are pushed in horizontally with a moderate force [approx. 49N (11lb)], the timing belt cog end is aprox. 1/2 of the tensioner mounting bolt head radius (across flats) away from the bolt head center.
I’m in need of some help. My 09 accent was throwing a code for crankshaft position sensor, I changed both crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor and the codes gone but it’s not getting spark to the 1 and 3 spark plugs, swapped the 1 and 3 coil packs with good ones and still no spark. Any ideas?
Check wire harness connected to coils. Continuity and if that's ok check from wire harness plug to your computer which is behind air filter. Here is rar file. Unzip right click htm and open in old internet explorer. Mfi wiring to sensors and computer. www.mediafire.com/file/430g7cmk6ap6cv6/MFI_Control_System.rar/file
hmaservice website. If you can wait you can head over to Hyundai forums under 06-11 accent and ask this question and when I get home Saturday I'll post the torque data sheet
Hi Gen! =D Ultimate thanks from sweden, gonna do this job in the summer- thanks to you - I have learned how to do so many things- thank you so much 4 this!++GOT A QUESTION ! I have thought of something about tensioning the harm bal bolt and wanted to ask you this, since I think I just came up with a good idea- although I might be painfully mistaken.., I am guessin the car is not in gear when u do this job-to be able to turn the crankshaft..?My idea is- can you (probably?) put the car in say; fifth gear n stop the engine- to tighten bolts when you already have the timing belt installed and the other belts off? ofcourse if you put the harm bal bolt on just farely snug before starting the engine..? was wondering; specifically when you run the start test( - maybe this can also be done sometime before you take the belt off in case it works..?)- to tighten bolts .., specifically the harmonic balancer bolt and water pump pulley bolts (dont know if i can get around those, but maybe with tension on the belts i thought..?) -it just seems so tricky to do these things how u did it, especially the water pump.. although I admire the inventiveness!! - if this idea is really bad- which it could be- i was also wondering what happens if you install the generator belt and acc belt (tight) to tension the harm bal bolt, but thats a different idea- just trying to get around these special tools and items thing somehow.., but maybe you have tto do another timing belt job to answer this..?!! (wouldnt ask..=) All this said; i really love your videos, they are so specific that even I (who have not even owned a car til last year; got it cause my son lives far away) -can muster up the courage to start messing with things i would never have dared without your help in this! It is a very generous effort making these videos to help people save money - u should know what they charge in sweden for a lesser job done..! So honour to you, man!
Thank you for your nice comments. Standard transmissions u can do 5th gear twick and put Allen key in the front rotor (slots) and when you torque the front wheel turns tell it stops and because the transmission is locked with flywheel you can torque the balancer bolt. Never tried it on automatic. Suggest impact gun or put it on. Hit ratchet handle to get tight take it to a shop pay 5 bucks and they will tap it on with impact.
hmm, front rotor.., not sure where you mean... sure i need an allen key..? thought it would just work with the resistance from the manual transmission?( If i switch into 5th gear during the start test) I bought an impact gun and torqu wrench (20-210NM) for bout a hundred bucks -but i dont know if shops in sweden have the allen key... but have the most important ones.. -and yeah; its probably not enough tension with the belts on, thanks 4 making that clear.
Andreas lundén if you have impact just tap it on. what the allen key does is git into the slots of the rotor. when rotor turn becsuse the transmisdion is engaged it will stop at the caliper and alliw you to tighen bolt. there are tons of ideas to remove the balancer bolt. impact is the best way
thanks general1- My question was more about tightening than the removal- & getting the right specs.., bit tricky.. took your advice with the impact on removal seriously,, guess it´s minimum risk move the timing belt counter-clockwise that way. Good tip! Always thorough descriptions by you :-) And you deserve the compliments! Most of my worries have involved getting the right tension on the HARM BALANCER BOLT.. I just wanna skip the risk of not having enough tension 4 tensioning the bolt when im in the middle of the job -getting tension using the "used alternator belt" -method; seemed difficult and applies tools that are hard to find in sweden.. also the allen key.. but then i will use my 5th gear as resistance (- instead of the belt method which ofcorse can be used on automatic, I guess..) - a lot of these "issues" are about having the right tools, and the vicegrip with the lock u used i cannot find anywhere here. "Allen key" is translated to "hex key" in swedish (probably because the real one u used is not avilable here either). But I´ll work out some backup-plan, just in case.., like the belt method- with welding grips or something. THANKS
Well I came across to your video you did good replacing the timing belt, but when you open your timing belt and the water pump still the one that came with the car you install a new pump those crank and cam seal need to be replace 🤔 timing roller like your it was making noise good for you that you replaced it otherwise you will do it when you replace the water pump
Hi I have a 08 Accent with about 80,000km should I change it now or wait tell 90 or 95 thousand KMS? I pulled the cover off to take a look at the belt I can't see any cracks but looks like it has lose because when I ran it will the cover off it had some shaking in the belt at idle.. should I wait or change it now?
follow your service manual to the T. do not go past 4 years as the rubber in the belts breaks down and can break causing your pistons to hit the valves if this happens ruining your engine.
could you look in the manual and tell me what hyundai says about the code p0068? i cant get it to go away. im hoping there is some extra info in the factory manual
Its a signal problem between MAP/MAF-Throttle Position Correlation. To test If you send me your email by clicking under my channel logo and stating your problem by accessing my channel email in the about tab Ill send you the test procedures to test ecm to the 2 sensors and the sensors themselves.
I’m fixing to buy one of these with a 100k miles on it guess I will replace all the fluids and do the timing belt and water pump just to get it ready for another 100k. I am gonna use it to deliver in so it’s gonna be stressed some days and drove very easy other days. I do 90% of my maintenance myself to save money but if it gets to big of a job I hire it out. Got a buddy who runs a garage he gets his guys to do my stuff for little of nothing. Usually he says give me $30-$40 no matter what it is. He put a fan clutch on my ranger for $30 did rear brakes for $30 did blower motor on my Chevy Cruze for $25 so it’s hard to justify spending g over a hour or so doing some stuff myself when he will do it so cheap. Plus I work 60-80 hours a week a lot of times.
Glad it worked for you. You ok with the manual now? ALl your answers to your vehicle will be in there! Seems this project is been like going against the grain for you. I hope you get everything working like new....
when you get to the point in the video with the tensioner I gave you a screenshot of taking the alternator bracket off then the waterpump bolts. The most important thing is to clean the gasket mating surface. There are videos on water pumps. Then fill coolant 50 50 mix distiled water and follow my coolant flush video to bleed the air out.
Tap and dye helicoil kit to fix stripped threads that hold the bolt to the spacer. The spring is not needed after the tensioner has been torqued. I would try to fix it as the spring acts as a backup
***** I guess so. Its a Gates Belt same as you used. Another question, my timing marks on the cam are spot on but I am 2 teeth of the marks below on the crank.
Let me clear this up. Take the belt off. Set can to line up dot. When this is set both valves will be closed cylinder one. Now back the crank 2 teeth because the piston will not hit the valves. If you rotate the crank back 1 turn you risk cylinder firing order 2 hitting the valves. So only the crank turn back 2 teeth. Put belt back on. Check marks then rotate 2 complete turns of can which equals 4 turns of the crank. Check marks again and if tdc is set perfect the marks then your safe to do a 5 sec start check to check the sound and seating of the belt. I hope this clears this up. Leave the cam sprocket fixed.
Time belt on these cars is rubber. I currently drive 2019 Hyundai Elantra Preffered Edition and this vehicle has timing chain. The 2006-2011 Hyundai Accents do not have timing chains for the crank and cam but use rubber belts.However inside the plastic valve cover is a chain for the CVT which does not need to be serviced. The older cars use a distributer cap to set timing for the engine with a timing light and special glasses. But now it is done by CVT. Uses oil pressure to slightly adjust the lobes of the intake and exhaust valves bump sticks which the computer controls via knock sensor on the engine.
@@gereral1_jackofalltrades Is your engine code G4ED, cause I seen another video with same engine that engine had a belt and a chain like the vw 2.0 ABF engine, so I was thinking if that is true
Ali ALGERIA Hyundai forums website has a 1.5 litre accent section where users can answer questions on this type or engine. As for a shop manual you can Google hma service and log into the Hyundai website and pay a fee to access the entire manual for the 1.5l
anti seize on the washer face of the dampner pulley and a touch of locktite blue on the threads will A; seal the threads to prevent rust and B; allow easy dissasembly 100K later. i have done 100s of these jobs and being in the rust belt firmly stand by my comment. i never torque a bolt dry. FYI
Juan Coronado goto Hyundai forums and search timing belt or setting can timing. I posted an article step by step setting the intake and exhaust cams with the timing chain. It shows that the timing chain has 2 links that are a different shade line up with the dots on the ends.Then you have to line up the marks as shown in these videos to align the can and crank shaft. My use name is ikilledbarbie on those forums. Another note is a no start when you hear the cars starter engage can be a faulty crank sensor or can sensor via the sensor or the wiring going to the computer. If the computer detects no signal or the timing wave form is off on key on start the computer will disable injector and spark.
highly doubt anyone will be bolting the lower timing cover back on in 2024 or beyond..."there's a reason it was discontinued".... obviously. Everything in the junk yards are also brittle crap.... but hey, they DID actually make a quality one finally, aluminum... and it's like $350+ lol
Horrible design. The exhaust camshaft is powered by the timing belt and the intake camshaft is driven off the exhaust camshaft by a internal timing chain. They could just have both camshafts driven by the timing belt and keep things simple.
After watching this video i now know why my belt failed after 1 month. I had someone do it for me and one month later my belt is shredded.....gonna be tackling this this after noon...thanks for the video
No problem..... Guess these Hyundai videos have helped out many users.....
Guess it was a good idea to start this channel.....
gereral1 got it done ina bout 2.5 to 3 hrs....purrs loke a kitten
gereral1 so it has been 3 weeks since i did mine, and with the problem of it going after month after the other guy did it, i checked mine this morining and it is shreeding again! The belt has shifted toward the motor and had wore about 1/4 of the belt off! The belt, idler, tensioner, water pump and crank pully have all been replaced.....i am fristrated and dont know what could cause the shfting.
Jay Reynolds II water pump has nothing to do with the problem. do you have play in the crank sprocket at bottom engine? aThe tiny tensioner spring that puts tension on the belt....is it installed like in my video, is the bolt that holds it tight ? nothing stripped in the bolts that hold the tensioner? Did you count the teeth on the right side between the cam and crank sprocjets. I saw a long time ago an issue inside the valve cover that could cause a resistance on the cam sprocket from the timing chain cvt tensioner that could cause the teeth to strip. At this point I would take it to a shop and mentioned this. any valve restrictions or timing chain issues can make its way to the cam sprocket and tear the teeth off the belt.
I realize the waer pump has nothing to do with it.....was just listing everything that has been changed. It is no stripping the teeth, the belt is shifting and shaving the side of the belt off. something is causing the belt to not track true. and yes the tensionter is tight.
Excellent set of videos , I don't know anything about cars and today I learned a lot, I just need to learn how to use torque, thank you very much, and may God continue to give you lots of health and life...😊😊
Thanks for posting these videos. My local dealer on Long Island wanted $590.00 just to do the timing belt. This series of videos enabled me to do the timing, ac, alternator, and power stearing belts for $140.00. I really appreciated the detailed tutorial. It saved me a nice chunk of change. Stay Awesome.
Sounds about right. Could be more if you had a water pump, tensioner and idler pulley replaced.
Great video. The easy way to tighten the crack bolt is to use your impact. With the spark plugs in place, you can tighten the bolt with your impact until you start to turn the engine over. You will never strip the threads because the engine will start to turn way before you have enough force to strip threads. The engine turns clock-wise, so the bolt is never getting any rotational force that would unscrew it. I hope that helps to save you some time. I worked on hundreds of Hyundai’s in NY and virtually everyone did it that way.
I found the total of three tutorials extremely helpful. i own a hyundai matrix and have to watch a few more as i have to replace the water pump and the fuel filter situated in the fuel tank. also i think the matrix/lavita has a hydraulic tensioner on the timing belt ( not sure yet) Thanks again for the time and effort you put into making the three videos Martin Brandt
Just finished this job. Also changed out water pump,cam/crank seals, ac idler pulley and belts.Thanks for the videos. Hardest part was the spring and getting the two water pump pulleys on and lined up correctly. Used long 45 degree pliers to pry the spring on there, took about 5 tries.
Thanks a lot for your videos! Today I've done this (timing belt) job, accordingly to your instructions. It's done perfectly!
Kharkov, Ukraine.
Mike Bezrukov Glad to help out. Look for more advanced videos coming this spring. I will be getting into the evap system, door locks and mirror motors, engine compression testing, coolant pressure testing, thermostat replacement. Talk about the rad cap and fuel cap and how its sealed under pressure. The horn system. These videos will cover electronic testing and show step by step how to fix these systems on your own..........
This is awesome, not many video's on this car out there, yet so many people are driving these cars. I guess most of them just throw the car away after the first sign of trouble or major maintenance. I took it to the dealer and I think i left $800 CND poorer after all was said and done. You'll never leave the shop for 200, especially if the part it self is $89.
Thanks for the video it was big, big help. Usually I have to stumble around to fix things like that, after watching it was straight forward. It was my son’s car and took the 2 of us 5 hours from start to finish….. PS I used the allan key method to loosen and tighten the harmonic bolt, I'm just a back yard mechanic and don't have an impact gun. Thanks general1
no problem! glad to help!
His name is geReral1..
Thank you so much for this video!! I just successfully completed the replacement of timing belt, idler pulley, belt tensioner and water pump.
Good to save big money hay ;)
Good to save big money hay ;)
To remove the tensionner's spring it can be a good idea to loosen the bolt that holds it but not to remove it, pry the spring out, then remove the bolt. This way you don't have to worry about the spring flying off. To put it back on you can also use two screwdrivers instead of pliers, it's easier to slide it on this way. But hey great vids man i'm just sharing my tips ;) wouldn't had done it without them.
That's correct. I also found out through further investigation that the spring that holds the tension does not sit flush on the block so it does not tighten which leads me to believe that the spring is bent. I ordered a new spring, bolt, and spacer from hyundai. The belt had some slack so I assume that's why I could not time it correctly.
Excellent set of videos...thanks for posting these!
Thanks. You might try Rock Auto for parts, and you should replace your switch cover plate for safety's sake.
Great videos. Thanks for putting in the hard work to make them.
The more views and subscribers the more I want to add more detailed videos for this car. My next video going up is the teardown of the power mirror. testing of the mirror motor and pin configurations. Wheb I can get 300 bucks I am going to purchase a uscope and make videos on how to do hmaservice testing off all the sensors on this car ;)
These videos take along time ti edit. 30 hrs was put into recording andediting this series. 15 hrs for the brake videos
The spark plugs shown in this video. I bought these ngk plugs from hyundai dealer parts department. I bought bosh platium tip plug to video review aftermarket plugs to see if oe type plugs can work as well. I will run them for 1 month remove them and see if there is a proper burn and see if there is misfires or acceleration issues. This review migjt answer many !uestions on single and 4 termimal plugs
All trades, you video was pretty good lots of detail. Saw that you had some challenges in locking the harmonic balancer. What you can use is a pipe wrench with an old radiator hose to prevent teeth marks and lock the handle on the cross member.
+tisa pierre tacked it on with an impact but thank you for the tip!
I still dont understand the concept of Marking the timing BELT .because the new belt can go on in any one of the hundreds of teeth. The belt does not need to be set on any particular tooth, its the cam & crankshaft etc ...........the engine needs TDC with belt on ..... So marking the old belt makes no sense to me. can someone make sense of it? why do I need to mark my OLD belt???
my man! i swear bro, i am having the exact same question... my first time doing a timing job and i cannot understand the compulsion most have about marking the belts/transferring the marks ... and quite frankly, i feel it has kind of messed up my ability to tackle this job appropriately... definitely lost time....i can only see marking it to make sense if perhaps you're re-using it,.. but still, only the direction it was traveling makes sense still....
a shop put my mother in law's Gates belt on with the writing upside down, so i copied it against my own intuition.... now that it's on, i wish i would have switched it ... because even if it lasts several years, but then something like a pump or whatever fails, i could see her talking the #2 about an upside down belt the mechanic said was wrong ...& the last thing i need, is to star in a true crime episode.
just to add, for whatever reason, i couldn't get my belt to match the marks...off by like 1 or 2 teeth... nobody mentions what happens if u don't fix this... so perhaps the lack of an explanation ANYWHERE on that for the last 2 decades really, is the Litmus Test proving u really only need to align everything using the crank.
Does the car run? Have any issues?
You know that when you use an extension, especially more then one back to back it changes the amount of torque you apply.
In part 2 , you say you need to set TDC before pulling the Harm. Balancer off. I saw the marks on the plastic lower cover , but my Hb pulley is so rusted there are no marks on there . Then in this vid it shows you can set TDC after the HB is pulled off which would make it much easier to set TDC cause you can see the marks to line up. What is the reason for setting TDC before pulling off the HB cause most cars in the north are going to have rusted pulleys like mine with no marks. Thanks for the video btw
Great video series! I will watch it again a few times but feel like you explained this procedure well enough for me to take it on. Thank you very much for your video series! Very well presented. Will subscribe and look forward to your other videos!
+Jb B Thank you for the nice comment. Makes doing this stuff all worth it
+Jb B This series took 18 hrs to edit in post and about 5 hrs to record. Would have had this done in 1 hour and half but having to change my gloves, grab the camera, switch angles, put a new pair of gloves on, switch the tripod.... its a pain in the butt. Do not forget to watch the old 3 belts replacement video as you will need to take these 3 off as well to get to the timing belt.
Will do. My wife's car needs a few of the repairs you have covered. Just yesterday I took her car in for an oil change ($25.00) and they quoted me $180.00 to replace the spark plugs. I just about feel over as you can imagine. Went to my local NAPA and for the iridum (spelling?) were $14.00 each and now viewing your video I can save a bundle! Thank you very much for your videos, extremely helpful.
Glad to help
Thanks mate, appreciate your time
Nice video,well done very detailed,you should have done the timing chain too
Muy buen vídeo! detallaste todo muy bien y con este vídeo no hay problemas para cambiar la correa de tiempo de mi Getz! gracias
Glad to help.....¡encantado de ayudar!
very very helpfull video i just finish my timing belt/water pump right now thanks to you ! =)
+Brayan Morales Feels good to work on something with your hands and save some money at the same time! Happy new year
+gereral1 yes ! thank you and happy new year !
So ..........even though we have TDC perfect ........and now have the belt On .... when we release the tensioner, that alone with throw us out of time by a tooth? How can we counteract what the tensioner does, so that when we release the tensioner its still TDC ? SHOULD BE PUT IT ON 1 TOOTH RETARTED? or 1 tooth untarted? last question......... Will the tensioner just putting tension actually cause the timing to go out ??
Great Info.Helped me out 100%. My issue is my belt snapped while driving. Now I have no compression in Cylinder #1. You think I bent the valves?
Sounds like bent valves. Going to cost your 800 to 1000 bucks to pull the head and re-seat the valves and replace the valves. I'm sorry to hear this happened to you.
***** Question, I rotated the crankshaft 4 times and my marks are not aligning.I am off by one tooth. I had to reinstall the head from bent valves now I am doing the belt. Any help would be great. Thanks
do not start the engine until both tdc are aligned perfect. do you feel binding on rotation? Its normal to feel resistance for 2 1 rotation then its like it rotates easier on the second rotation. This is because the compression no compression stroke. One tooth will not damage the valves but I suggest lining it up perfect to prevent damage BEFORE you start the car.
a minor back rotation of one tooth is not going to hurt anything. Just don't go back too much as Hyundai states to rotate the engine clockwise when testing TDC and doing the final rotation test to seat the timing belt and feel for binding before starting the engine.
***** So one tooth on the crankshaft won't damage? The mark on the lower gear is one past the mark.
Thanks a lot that helping me For de harmonic balancer I use a pulley key 20$ . And the service manual is on ebay for 20$ also.
Tried helicoil kit. Did not work to rethread stripped hole where tension spring goes. Cant get a drill in there to drill out, only a tap. Even after i got the new coil in there the bolt only tightens so much which leaves plenty of play in that tension spring.
honestly I would not attempt this job without an impact. you could try the belt pinch method reversed or put a socket on the balancer bolt and use a sledge hammer to quickly tap the socket handle to break it loose like an impact would. Worse case get a shop to loosen then tighten just enough to get home to remove with the tap method. The belt method will work if you can find a long enough belt to wrap around the alternator pulley and the balancer. Pinch it at the top instead of the bottom like shown in the video. Use a long bar to get more torque and a jack stand to support away from the wheel well.
+gereral1 I pick up an impact gun. I love it. Worked like a charm. Still I have a problem. Many of the teeth from the belt were done by the crank gear. I can set the TDC for the crank shaft, but the camshaft will only turn so far and I cannot get it back to TDC. I saw a video about loosening the bolts on the Camshaft, but it said there was a specific order. Any idea what that might be? Thanks, your videos are great!
+gereral1 I have a 2008 accent 5 speed manual hatch back.
Jeff Hopkins Are you trying to change the cam seal? Did your timing belt skip before taking it apart? goto Hyundai forums and sign up and start a topic and show some screen shots so I can understand what you mean. If your not sure how the valves are timed you can watch a youtube video showing you the internal operation an interface engine. The cam and crank dots are set then you release the tension off the belt. Chalk marks to make sure if the crank retards a tooth. That way when you add tension its advances back to its TDC. Its hard to help on a youtube message board.
+gereral1 I will be right back on Hyundai forums, but I have to take medicine to my kids. Ber about 30 minutes. Thanks
+gereral1 i have registered and posted on hyundai forums under
Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
> Hyundai Models
> Accent Forums. (Please Post In The Correct Sub Forum For The Year Of Your Vehicle)
> MC (2006-2011) Accent
>
2008 Accent Timing belt
is that correct?
Great Video !! Have to do a timing belt on a relatives car tommorow now I know what to expect. Thanks
look under your car hood. the info on valves for engine type is listed on the sticker.
thanks for the vid. very helpful. took about 6 hours. 2010 accent, 70K. Belt looked brand new. I drive conservatively though. Used air impact to get crank bolt off. I assume that its not necessary to mark old and new belt with chalk as long as engine is Top Dead Center when the new belt is placed on...I think you are saying that the chalk marks simply ensure that you don't stetch the belt and insert into the wrong corresponding tooth? also if cam shaft pulley mark is top dead center, is it even possible for the crank shaft pully mark on the bottom not also to be tdc? If you turn the crank shaft without the belt the cam shaft turns also. they can't be independently adjusted.
the hardest part of the job was getting the ac and alternator belt off without seeing that second video.
by the way, the Chilton's manual sucks! doesn't even have a diagram of the belt configuration.
I cover all 3 belts in the other video series. It is possible to adjust each separate. The chalk marks are for a second check. The timing will move as tesnsion is taken off the belt. The chalk is just an extra guide in case a first timer puts the belt on a tooth off. The chalk is not needed if you feel sure about tdc. Just think you just saved a ton of money!
u did a great job brother thank u it helped me tremendously....
Glad to help. That's what this channels for.... Look for full shocks struts coming soon
How many ft pounds of torque for camshaft bolt??
Hello G im from México an ive a question 4 u , cuz the car dont work , how can i check the time on the head
What is the purpose of rotating engine to line up timing marks? Seems if I mark old belt with chalk and count teeth, transfer to new belt, I should be good. Is there something I'm missing?
The arrows are there for tdc. In case the crank moves while removing belt.
Great job- how many hours did it take you? Looks like plenty of work even with proper tools and tight quarters as well.
I have a 2009 with only 38,000 miles but the dealer says replace due to age- they told me about 550.00 not sure what that includes though.
jim dandy expect at least 8 hrs for your first time.
jim dandy In Canada my 10' with 90'000 km only cost $385 to do the belt.
Did they replace the tensioner and idler for that price?
I cant remember.
About 5 but I did a full brake service as well
my timing belt broke and was wondering how to rotate the camshaft sprocket to set that TDC.
Please ask this question over at hyundai forums in 2006 2011 Hyundai accent forum. Thankyou
thanks for sharing you knowledge and experience.and long live the [INTERNET!!!!
No matter what I do, whenever I go to put the belt back on the crank sprocket moves. I had to put it back together with the crank 1 tooth past TDC with cam at TDC. Now it's running rich and cut my MPG in half. How did you get around not letting the crank move? Or do I just suck?
By marking belt lining up chalk marks. Mark belt so the tooth matches. Set tdc marks and remove belt. Do NOT touch crank cam after belts off. Put belt on release tension tell spring presses against belt. Then tighten torque 2 rev with break bar . Your belt has to have The right size. I think I covered how many teeth on belt in video. Make sure u have to proper kit. The crank will retard Abit once belt goes back on. Those chaulk marks are key
I repeat even though tdc marks move use your chalk marks . When u tension it will magically spring the tdc marks back to tdc
The problem is while putting the belt on the crank shaft moves forward past tdc no matter how I try to put it on.
@@MickyTicky2x4 don't worry about it's Mark moving. Follow the chalk marks on belt and sprockets. It will return to it's proper position. If it does not hold your old belt side by side with new one. Are they SAME size?
@@MickyTicky2x4 are tensioner and idler circle pullys same diameter ?
Chalk marks, very cool idea !! Thank you
Hey man. Great video. I have a 2008 accent, same exact car and I'm going to do a timing belt on it. While I do it I want to replace the water pump like u suggested. I also want to do a coolant flush. My question is, should I do the coolant flush prior to doing timing belt and water pump or after? If I flush before and just leave coolant out to do water pump, can I still do start test for timing belt without damaging engine? Thanks for all the detailed videos man. Great job! Also should I go ahead and do a valve cover gasket while I'm in there? And how hard is that job? Hyundai told me I need a new valve cover gasket but should I do all that at same time or do u think that's too much to attempt at once?
The tensioner is different 2008. Reseach this before giving it a go. These videos cover 2006-2011
Could I give u my email and have u message me? I have a couple more questions. Thanks for your help. flyjtc@icloud.com
If your replacing water pump drain rad. Do timing belt and pump. Put balancer on without covers. Do the test after filling rad with water. After belt test OK run car and check pump for leaks. If good seal take balancer off put covers on then balancer. Then follow my flush video after as you WILL have to remove trapped air in coolant system. Valve cover you must buy Hyundai sealant to apply to the ends of the gasket to prevent leaks after you put valve cover on. Make sure all oil is cleaned up where the timing parts are before putting new valve cover on and timing belt covers (lower and upper) Hyundai forums I have a good write up on the valve cover and hmaservice article on it. My name is Ikilledbarbie on those forums. Have use the search on forums to find it. I've posted 1500 plus replies so I don't remember the link. Good luck with this job. Just done testing replacing alternator and video will be released Sat sun this week.
How u said after timing belt start test run car and check pump for leaks, the water won't circulate thru the pump if the belt isn't on it right? So will I have to put all the belts back on then check pump for leaks?
Well what do u think? I bought my accent with 145k miles and it now has 160k miles. I don't kno if pump has ever been replaced. Should I go ahead and replace it or just leave it alone for now?
Dp I HAVE to remove the valve cover just to do the timing belt ??????
you do not need to remove the valve cover. There are 2 parts, tensioner and idler that's it. timing belt ac belt and alternator belt. remember to line up the marks and count the teeth on belt before you take it off. The tension spring on the tensioner is perfect to set the tension. Then tighten the bolt to the tensioner.
count the teeth on the belt? isnt there like 200ish teeth on the belt? i bought a Gates brand belt .@@gereral1_jackofalltrades
Hey there i have a 2001 accent. While changing the timing belt I accidently unscrewed the spring bolt and the spring came loose. I then tried to place it back however the screw wont torque straight or nudge. If continusly torquing, all it does is keep turning with no resistance. My instructor also said its fine to not have one or do I just need a new bolt. Its the same spring as yours. Thanks general1
You have a stripped bolt hole. You can use a helicoil kit to re-tap the bolt hole if you ever plan on using the spring again. The spring is responsible for placing the proper tension on the belt. Once you torque down the tensioner the spring becomes useless. Make sure you have enough tension on the belt if the spring is compromised. You can Google Heli-coil kit to see what i'm talking about.
Good luck with you repair. Timing belt job is not all that hard. You should use a torque wrench to prevent stripping of the threads like what happened to you.
Tension should be no more that 1/4 inch past the bolt as shown in my video on the right side of the timing belt. Verify that when the tensioner and the tension side of the timing belt are pushed in horizontally with a moderate force [approx. 49N (11lb)], the timing belt cog end is aprox. 1/2 of the tensioner mounting bolt head radius (across flats) away from the bolt head center.
***** always start all bolts with your hand to prevent cross threading in the future. Spark plugs are known to have this happen.
I’m in need of some help. My 09 accent was throwing a code for crankshaft position sensor, I changed both crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor and the codes gone but it’s not getting spark to the 1 and 3 spark plugs, swapped the 1 and 3 coil packs with good ones and still no spark. Any ideas?
Check wire harness connected to coils. Continuity and if that's ok check from wire harness plug to your computer which is behind air filter. Here is rar file. Unzip right click htm and open in old internet explorer. Mfi wiring to sensors and computer. www.mediafire.com/file/430g7cmk6ap6cv6/MFI_Control_System.rar/file
@@gereral1_jackofalltrades Thank you so much man! You’re honestly a life saver!
Also check to see if timing belt is not broken or missing teeth
Also look up how to activate a fuel injector with power and see if injectors on 1 3 are working
@@gereral1_jackofalltrades I will tomorrow, car only has 44k miles. Planned on pulling the upper timing cover off and checking
well done video(s). very thorough. where can i get a copy of the specs?
hmaservice website. If you can wait you can head over to Hyundai forums under 06-11 accent and ask this question and when I get home Saturday I'll post the torque data sheet
much appreciated
i sent you a message. on the forum.
Hi Gen! =D Ultimate thanks from sweden, gonna do this job in the summer- thanks to you
- I have learned how to do so many things- thank you so much 4 this!++GOT A QUESTION !
I have thought of something about tensioning the harm bal bolt and wanted to ask you this, since I think I just came up with a good idea- although I might be painfully mistaken..,
I am guessin the car is not in gear when u do this job-to be able to turn the crankshaft..?My idea is- can you (probably?) put the car in say; fifth gear n stop the engine- to tighten bolts when you already have the timing belt installed and the other belts off? ofcourse if you put the harm bal bolt on just farely snug before starting the engine..?
was wondering; specifically when you run the start test( - maybe this can also be done sometime before you take the belt off in case it works..?)- to tighten bolts .., specifically the harmonic balancer bolt and water pump pulley bolts (dont know if i can get around those, but maybe with tension on the belts i thought..?) -it just seems so tricky to do these things how u did it, especially the water pump.. although I admire the inventiveness!!
- if this idea is really bad- which it could be- i was also wondering what happens if you install the generator belt and acc belt (tight) to tension the harm bal bolt, but thats a different idea- just trying to get around these special tools and items thing somehow.., but maybe you have tto do another timing belt job to answer this..?!! (wouldnt ask..=)
All this said; i really love your videos, they are so specific that even I (who have not even owned a car til last year; got it cause my son lives far away) -can muster up the courage to start messing with things i would never have dared without your help in this! It is a very generous effort making these videos to help people save money - u should know what they charge in sweden for a lesser job done..! So honour to you, man!
Thank you for your nice comments. Standard transmissions u can do 5th gear twick and put Allen key in the front rotor (slots) and when you torque the front wheel turns tell it stops and because the transmission is locked with flywheel you can torque the balancer bolt. Never tried it on automatic. Suggest impact gun or put it on. Hit ratchet handle to get tight take it to a shop pay 5 bucks and they will tap it on with impact.
Belts idea may work with water pump but not balancer!
hmm, front rotor.., not sure where you mean...
sure i need an allen key..? thought it would just work with the resistance from the manual transmission?( If i switch into 5th gear during the start test)
I bought an impact gun and torqu wrench (20-210NM) for bout a hundred bucks -but i dont know if shops in sweden have the allen key... but have the most important ones..
-and yeah; its probably not enough tension with the belts on, thanks 4 making that clear.
Andreas lundén if you have impact just tap it on. what the allen key does is git into the slots of the rotor. when rotor turn becsuse the transmisdion is engaged it will stop at the caliper and alliw you to tighen bolt. there are tons of ideas to remove the balancer bolt. impact is the best way
thanks general1- My question was more about tightening than the removal- & getting the right specs.., bit tricky.. took your advice with the impact on removal seriously,, guess it´s minimum risk move the timing belt counter-clockwise that way. Good tip!
Always thorough descriptions by you :-) And you deserve the compliments!
Most of my worries have involved getting the right tension on the HARM BALANCER BOLT..
I just wanna skip the risk of not having enough tension 4 tensioning the bolt when im in the middle of the job
-getting tension using the "used alternator belt" -method; seemed difficult and applies tools that are hard to find in sweden.. also the allen key.. but then i will use my 5th gear as resistance (- instead of the belt method which ofcorse can be used on automatic, I guess..) - a lot of these "issues" are about having the right tools, and the vicegrip with the lock u used i cannot find anywhere here. "Allen key" is translated to "hex key" in swedish (probably because the real one u used is not avilable here either). But I´ll work out some backup-plan, just in case.., like the belt method- with welding grips or something. THANKS
Great video exactly like it should be
very well done
+mikeatc33 Thank you. Glad to help out
If i don"t have an impact gun, how do I get the harmonic bolt off without making the engine go counter clockwise?
I was thinking same thing
thank you for this video
Well I came across to your video you did good replacing the timing belt, but when you open your timing belt and the water pump still the one that came with the car you install a new pump those crank and cam seal need to be replace 🤔 timing roller like your it was making noise good for you that you replaced it otherwise you will do it when you replace the water pump
Hi I have a 08 Accent with about 80,000km should I change it now or wait tell 90 or 95 thousand KMS? I pulled the cover off to take a look at the belt I can't see any cracks but looks like it has lose because when I ran it will the cover off it had some shaking in the belt at idle.. should I wait or change it now?
follow your service manual to the T. do not go past 4 years as the rubber in the belts breaks down and can break causing your pistons to hit the valves if this happens ruining your engine.
could you look in the manual and tell me what hyundai says about the code p0068? i cant get it to go away. im hoping there is some extra info in the factory manual
Its a signal problem between MAP/MAF-Throttle Position Correlation. To test If you send me your email by clicking under my channel logo and stating your problem by accessing my channel email in the about tab Ill send you the test procedures to test ecm to the 2 sensors and the sensors themselves.
@@gereral1_jackofalltrades turns out it was the IAC sticking slightly .. causing a rpm issue tripping the code.
NO CHALK i usually mark my new timing belt with my razor knife cause chalk will blow away, inn the wind, plus a razer blade is laser precision
What about hyundai I10 timing belt, at what mileage
I’m fixing to buy one of these with a 100k miles on it guess I will replace all the fluids and do the timing belt and water pump just to get it ready for another 100k. I am gonna use it to deliver in so it’s gonna be stressed some days and drove very easy other days. I do 90% of my maintenance myself to save money but if it gets to big of a job I hire it out. Got a buddy who runs a garage he gets his guys to do my stuff for little of nothing. Usually he says give me $30-$40 no matter what it is. He put a fan clutch on my ranger for $30 did rear brakes for $30 did blower motor on my Chevy Cruze for $25 so it’s hard to justify spending g over a hour or so doing some stuff myself when he will do it so cheap. Plus I work 60-80 hours a week a lot of times.
Never mind. Did the helicoil process again. Got it!
Glad it worked for you. You ok with the manual now? ALl your answers to your vehicle will be in there! Seems this project is been like going against the grain for you. I hope you get everything working like new....
Yeah very bad. Now I am doing a test like you showed in your video, now the engine wont turn, barely a little bit.TDC Marks are set top and bottom.
Nice Diy Video...Appreciate it...
if you mean valve adjustment this car has hydrolic lifters and self adjust automatically.
What if the bottom sprockets indicator is advanced/lowered from the larger top sprockets top dead center indicator?
always always always replace the tensioner and water pump with the timing belt ! over 300k, replace pulleys as well
How do you change a water pump?
when you get to the point in the video with the tensioner I gave you a screenshot of taking the alternator bracket off then the waterpump bolts. The most important thing is to clean the gasket mating surface. There are videos on water pumps. Then fill coolant 50 50 mix distiled water and follow my coolant flush video to bleed the air out.
This is a hyundai accent 2009 1.6
Good job
Mobile One thks
Excellent
Tension spring does not tighten, only bolt does by itself, does not tighten with spring and spacer.
Tap and dye helicoil kit to fix stripped threads that hold the bolt to the spacer. The spring is not needed after the tensioner has been torqued. I would try to fix it as the spring acts as a backup
Make sure to install the spring exact all as shown in this video
Is your belt 105 teeth?
***** I guess so. Its a Gates Belt same as you used. Another question, my timing marks on the cam are spot on but I am 2 teeth of the marks below on the crank.
Let me clear this up. Take the belt off. Set can to line up dot. When this is set both valves will be closed cylinder one. Now back the crank 2 teeth because the piston will not hit the valves. If you rotate the crank back 1 turn you risk cylinder firing order 2 hitting the valves. So only the crank turn back 2 teeth. Put belt back on. Check marks then rotate 2 complete turns of can which equals 4 turns of the crank. Check marks again and if tdc is set perfect the marks then your safe to do a 5 sec start check to check the sound and seating of the belt. I hope this clears this up. Leave the cam sprocket fixed.
What about the chain?
Time belt on these cars is rubber. I currently drive 2019 Hyundai Elantra Preffered Edition and this vehicle has timing chain. The 2006-2011 Hyundai Accents do not have timing chains for the crank and cam but use rubber belts.However inside the plastic valve cover is a chain for the CVT which does not need to be serviced. The older cars use a distributer cap to set timing for the engine with a timing light and special glasses. But now it is done by CVT. Uses oil pressure to slightly adjust the lobes of the intake and exhaust valves bump sticks which the computer controls via knock sensor on the engine.
@@gereral1_jackofalltrades Is your engine code G4ED, cause I seen another video with same engine that engine had a belt and a chain like the vw 2.0 ABF engine, so I was thinking if that is true
@@ameeramod4564 1.6CVVT In-Line DOHC engine according to my service manual. ACCENT(MC) > 2009 > G 1.6 DOHC
G4ED-GSL 1.4 according to the MFI information.
No se inglés y aún así logre entender un 80% aprox. 😁
que quire saber amigo? - algo "en specifico"? lo siento, mi espanol no es muy bien, pero puedo tratar si te ayude
Wow you saved me I spent an hour of complete frustation with the wp pulleys the wire did the trick. WHAT A STUPID F'G DESIGN!
Glad to help
hi G, help me pls i need manual repair hyundai accent GLS 1.5 ess 91ch 2001.
THANK YOU
Ali ALGERIA Hyundai forums website has a 1.5 litre accent section where users can answer questions on this type or engine. As for a shop manual you can Google hma service and log into the Hyundai website and pay a fee to access the entire manual for the 1.5l
anti seize on the washer face of the dampner pulley and a touch of locktite blue on the threads will A; seal the threads to prevent rust and B; allow easy dissasembly 100K later. i have done 100s of these jobs and being in the rust belt firmly stand by my comment. i never torque a bolt dry.
FYI
the oem bolt in the video came off like butter. I live near hamilton ontario
Türkçe alt yazı eklerseniz sevinirim tesekkür ederim.
Cuz im also remove the head now o think the time is not set on the head
Juan Coronado goto Hyundai forums and search timing belt or setting can timing. I posted an article step by step setting the intake and exhaust cams with the timing chain. It shows that the timing chain has 2 links that are a different shade line up with the dots on the ends.Then you have to line up the marks as shown in these videos to align the can and crank shaft. My use name is ikilledbarbie on those forums. Another note is a no start when you hear the cars starter engage can be a faulty crank sensor or can sensor via the sensor or the wiring going to the computer. If the computer detects no signal or the timing wave form is off on key on start the computer will disable injector and spark.
ok thanks bro
شكرا
Glad to help سعيد للمساعدة
highly doubt anyone will be bolting the lower timing cover back on in 2024 or beyond..."there's a reason it was discontinued".... obviously. Everything in the junk yards are also brittle crap.... but hey, they DID actually make a quality one finally, aluminum... and it's like $350+ lol
very thanks
Glad to help
It say DOHC but i only count one .
2009 hyundai accent belts
Hondai accent gari chal ne me aceleter choura deta hai
That sure looks like a single over head came
Back chanh timing video
Help me G
Tongkong
Horrible design. The exhaust camshaft is powered by the timing belt and the intake camshaft is driven off the exhaust camshaft by a internal timing chain. They could just have both camshafts driven by the timing belt and keep things simple.