Hyundai / KIA 4 Cylinder Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement - PART 1
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- Опубліковано 1 тра 2018
- DIY Hyundai Elantra / Tiburon Timing Belt and Water Pump replacement / repair. Part 1 covers the removal of parts to be replaced. Part 2 covers the installation of the new parts.
Hyundai / Kia Parts and Specialty Tools:
Timing Belt & Water Pump Component Kit (Good kit … comes with OEM Mitsuboshi Timing Belt, Aisin Water Pump & Koyo Bearings):
amzn.to/2ua6X7m
Harmonic Balancer Puller Tool:
amzn.to/2XQQXoo
Mountain RM6 Chrome Metric Box Wrench Set
amzn.to/2MLzVWf
Mountain MTNRM1214 Ratcheting Double Box Flex Wrench, 12x14mm
amzn.to/327YtwL
Genuine Hyundai Fluid 00232-19010 Long Life Coolant:
amzn.to/2XYe0xq
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel:
amzn.to/2OawLJL
Powered Impact Tool (not the one I used, but less expensive quality corded version):
amzn.to/2F57ldk
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Excellent report. One step at a time to what looks like a very complicated job but is best done with no rush. Some belts come marked with the proper mounting positions but the way you do it is the usual method I also use. No mistakes that way.
Well said!
Thanks buddy for the marking the belt trick. I used to get Subaru belts with markings (4 cams) and why didn't I think to make my own!
Glad I could help!
Excellent guide! Thank you. Wana do this on my Kia Rio 2013.
Glad you found it useful!
LEGEND HAS IT THAT CAR NEVER RAN AGAIN
Still chugging.
@@hardlymovingpro lol the legend was lie then never believe the internet
I have a 2006 Kia Spectra with the 2.0. I think the belt jumped time, but I want to confirm.
I've read that clearance between cam and lifters should always be tight.
Right now I can easily insert a shim piece of plastic coke bottle between the cam and some lifters. Does that mean bent valves??? Thanks.
Check the TDC alignment between the camshaft and the crankshaft.
@@hardlymovingpro ----- That's mucho work to expose the crankshaft marks. Maybe easier and better a bleed down test?
In this video, I don't see you replace seals. So, you only replace them when they look bad, and/or owner ask for it or based on the mileage or history of the car you knew, or anything else? In your opinion, how often should cam/crankshaft seals need to be replaced? Much thanks.
On the Hyundai/Kia that I've worked on I haven't found one with a leaking seal. Plus in this case the customer didn't want to pay for the parts and labor. However generally speaking at every timing belt change you should change them even if they're not leaking.
Thanks for this! 💯 Performing this as I type; only question is--and, I scrolled QUITE a bit an' didn't see: How do you/I remove Crankshaft Pulley? 🥵 Bolt is out, but pullet WILL NOT budge on my '08 Sportage. Tried tapping, prying...🤷🏻♂️😭
There should be two holes in the pulley to attach a removal tool. I sometimes used a steering wheel puller set or a double prong gear puller.
Can you remove the timing idler pulley (the one by the water pump) without taking off the actual belt. All I need to replace is the water pump on mine and I don’t really wanna mess with the timing stuff if I don’t have too
Maybe ... never tried.
Great video, thanks. I’m doing this repair on my 2011 Accent. It’s amazing how many things have to be removed to get this waterpump out. Terrible engineering and design.
Yes ... you're correct. More involved than replacing a w/p on a Toyota or Honda!
Most engines it's hard to get to water pump.. I just did one on a Saturn it had eco engine it was way more of a shit engine
If the engineering is good , not a problem. Had a 2002 Chevy Venture and the water pump was right up front and toward the top of the engine. Easiest water pump I ever replaced. On the other hand, there are the Ford designs that put the water pump IN the engine.
i did a few of those years ago . I thought they were decent little motors that ran a long time. The last one i did had 177,000 miles & still ran like a champ .
Yes, I'd agree. But these new GDI engines with timing chains have become oil burners.
When reinstalling the crank shaft bolt to get the engine to TDC, did you turn it clockwise or counterclockwise?
Clockwise
Hello you have any videos or ideas of how to change a water pump on a Hyundai tuson 2005 diesel engine
Nope ... not yet.
Diesel!!!!???
Thank you for this complete tuto. My first try is a fail.... impossible to unscrew the crankshaft bolt. it's all the mecanism that is turning.... Do you know how to block the mecanism ? i don't have shock key....
You need to make a small investment in either a manual or electric powered impact driver. Another way is to find an access plate to the engine flywheel (between the transmission and engine) and jam a pry bar or larger screw driver in the flywheel gears to prevent the engine from turning.
On Toyota V6, my electric gun is weak, so I use a breaker bar with a socket for that bolt and lean it against lower control arm, tie it to the control arm with a shoe lace, then crank the engine (remove few coil connectors just in case the engine run, timing belt still on), the bolt will loose by itself.
Thank you @@minhdo9597 . i'm a bit afraid to try that ^^ ... sure my engine will run in the first second that i turn my key...
do Unplug the coil wires or undo the plugs. Either way, it works using it to loosen it. It may scare you, but it will need the tool to stop against something strong/brace area.
just a quick, click the key to crank, then off.
do you have to remove the power steering and motor mount to remove the top cover of the belt ?
Nope ... but you'll need to remove the oil dip stick.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks man great video 👍🏻👍🏻
No problem.
Hey I know this video was made a while ago, but you wouldn’t happen to know the socket size I need to remove the crankshaft pulley at 5:30? I followed your step by step and it didn’t list this size needed.
From my recollection, 19 mm. Otherwise 21 or 22 mm.
Hi there can you help with Hyundai i10 4 cylinder model 2011 valve clearance in mm please
Sorry ... haven't worked on the model.
Great video. Is crankshaft bolt right-handed thread? Can I crank the engine to loose that bolt if I dont have strong enough gun?
Yes to both questions.
Does “right hand threaded” mean it is normal (clockwise tighten) or the opposite(counterclockwise)?
Hello I have enjoyed your video so far but got stuck on the crank shaft pulley as I try to loosen it the wheel just spins I've tried locking it with a screw driver in the break pads and the brake disc but it still turns can you help me please
Are you talking about the crank shaft pulley bolt? If so, you'll need to get a powered impact tool with a impact socket to loosen it. There's also manual impact tools too that you strike with a hammer but haven't see one that's 1/2". An a/c corded impact tool can be purchased for under $100.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you for the reply 👍
Generally doesn't work on Toyota's and Honda's ... the harmonic balancer bolts are on too tight. Also, you have the problem of re-torquing back on the bolts at over 150 lbs. A problem without an impact tool.
An oldie here, & out of practice, but on my neighbour's (unknown vintage) replacement ex-Japan Getz engine (possibly a G4ED), I was finally able to crack the crankshaft bolt after 4 days of once daily dripping a brilliant local (Qld, Oz) penetrating oil, Trick Ease. Naturally knick-named Tricky's). Recently found, best penetrating oil I've seen in around in 65 years of mechanic and radio work. Forget finding it unless you're in Qld, they are lousy salespeople. Find one locally, by asking at an engine overhaul shop what they used as a cutting oil on the lathe, and look up that manufacturer’s range for something similar.
On this version of a Getz engine, if you take the tappet cover off (a battle, being glued down with some sort of rock hard ooze, also released finally with Tricky's,) you'll see the front camshaft has hexagonal flats cast into it near the centre of the shaft. A large adjustable spanner/wrench can be slipped onto those flats & wriggled tight, then the handle jammed at that position against the firewall with wood lengths cut to suit.
Daily sharp taps on the bolt with a medium-hard soft faced hammer on an extension bar & socket, and a couple more drops then of penetrator help the process.
Finally, by day four, a six facet socket and a long tommy bar on the socket was used again, end of bar tapped with same soft spanner, and the bolt released. (At these pressures don't use twelve faced/facetted sockets, they are only good for light ratchet work, and don't have big enough bearing surfaces against the head of the nut.)
I'm lucky. Retired and had the time, but with no racket gun/impact driver/torque wrench.
What model years does this video apply to?
From my recollection, it was a 2004.
Ok, so how do i remove the crankshaft pulley without an impact tool?
Use a chain strap wrench or a pulley holder tool to prevent the crankshaft pulley from moving.
Excelent
Thanks!
Does this also apply to a Hyundai Tucson
If 4 cylinder, probably yes.
My water pump is making a weird noise. I thought was the belt and remove then tight again, but still making it. When I push gas noise goes away, when I stop or an idling it make the noise. I used a stetoscope and I hear the noise by the water pump bearing, but the car is not getting hot. Everything is working fine.
Replace the pump. Your bearings are worn out.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks. yeah, I replace the timing belt, accessories belts, tensioner, idler pulley, and water pump. Everything had 50K miles only, but it's ok. Now everything is new.
if i didn't mark timing belt. how to align it with?
Make sure the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks are at their correct position. Move the camshaft 1/2 cog to the right (clockwise) to ease mounting of the belt. After the belt is on and to remove the belt slack, move back the camshaft to the alignment mark. If the belt is tight and camshaft mark is at the correct alignment mark, the mounting of the new belt is correct.
some commenhts say .....the way you marked your belts keeps it more simple,or something like that. ..I watched twice & didnt see any belt markings. .... can anybody point me to where the belts were marked? how were they marked?? My big thing is ........which goes on first which goes on second & which goes on 3rd ........not to mention a million different bolts with diff. sizes & lengths. ....... Thats the scarey part for me.
How many hours does it take to do this job
Around 5.
I can confirm this is same engine as hyundai coupe 2.0 gk 2002-2009 g4gc
Ok.
Santro xing ke skater chhodane per jhataka deta hai
To kya kare sar
English please.
What is the engine code? G4HG?
Sorry ... have no idea.
Engine should be a beta II so it should be G4GC if my memory serves me correctly
Ok moving the jack from holding engine up is no advisable while engine mount is removed you are lucky the engine didn't fall
Thanks for your advice. How would you support the engine with the side mount removed?
Don't forget to bleed the system once you put it back together very important step and didn't hear dude mention it
Bleed what?
@@hardlymovingpro the cooling system the air needs to be bleed out when all coolant is drained. Even if half the coolant is drained you must bleed the system.
@@hardlymovingpro I'm a mechanic you can also UA-cam bleeding cooling system if u don't believe me.
@@carlosv2474 Good. When you say "bleed this or drain that", as a tech you have to be extremely specific on what it is or the audience will get confused.
diesel crd
NEVER EVER use a razor blade on an aluminum surface. Yes people do it but it's not a safe factor. Risk knicking the surface and drawing a line right through it and it tears gaskets. Use Brake/carb cleaner and a high grit sandpaper like an 800-1000.
Don't know what shop you work out of but we use razor blades all the time for removing stuck gasket material. We never, ever use sandpaper on gasket contact surfaces. They create deep scratches which will definitely result in coolant leakages using modern metal gaskets with rubber coated sealant. If there's leakage from using sandpaper, RTV must be applied for a leak free seal. We use a rotary wire brush (in lieu of sand paper) to remove the remaining gasket material off the surface. This technique has never, ever failed me.
Show/Create me one video using 1000 grit sandpaper that puts "deep scratches" in lol. I've been doing sandpaper since the 90's, it NEVER raises any chances of any water leaks and since 86 when my father showed me this method, it too, has never ever failed me. There's different strokes for different folks. But to say what you've never done or seen does not justify for me what will or will not work or will happen, that's just plain not fair. If you are using a wire brush, you are using the same exact method as me using sandpaper which puts you and I in the same boat you want to me me only in. "Deep scratches" really? I didn't say using a durn 600 grit. Now hence having old RTV yea you can use a blade, or just like you attempted to 1up with with using a wire brush. I said what I said because if there are any uneven surfaces FOR PEOPLE NOT EXPERIENCED as we are, they will run serious risk of scarred and literally taking chunks of material off. More than one way to achieve the same goal ;-) .
Automotive Performance Mobile Mechanics your argument for invalidating his method, invalidates you’re own method. You both claim your techniques work for you so arguing one is better is a fool’s errand.
diesel