10 years later and this video is still helping people like me. Appreciate the thorough walk through. For loosening the plate attached to the water pump if you've already removed the belt you can use the old belt to wrap around it again, hold it tight with one hand and slip in a socket with extension to loosen the bolts. Also if you don't have an impact driver for loosening the nut on the camshaft attach a breaker bar with the 22mm socket wedged against the ground and hit the ignition to turn over. This will loosen the nut.
Well I've watched several people do versions of this and yours has been the most thorough . Top idea putting zip ties around the belt and cam pulley to stop it moving. Also nice detail on getting the timing dots lined up properly.
Thank you for your video. It was quite helpful. One thing that I did that might help others, is that when I went to put the 2 pulleys back onto the water pump, I cut off the heads of 2 bolts and screwed them into the water pump to give a place for the pulleys to hang. Once I got the bolts in place for the 2 open holes I removed the ones with the cutoff heads and placed those bolts. In that tight space, it made it significantly easier.
List to Print for Reference While Doing This Job: 1) remove - batt terminal. 2) Remove wheel & splash shield (2- 10mm bolts). 3) Alternator adjuster 12mm. Lower Alt nut (next to oil filter) 12mm. Tension off adj w 12mm. Take belt off (note: I forgot to loosen bolts on H2O pump pulley b/f taking belt off. Had to hold it w channel locks when loosening bolts). 4) Pwr steering pump. 14mm. Upper & lower loosen. Take belt off. 5) AC belt tensioner pulley w adjuster 12mm. 14mm in center. Take belt off. 6) Crank. 22mm impact wrench (or look up trick with starter - had to do bc elect impact wouldn't do it). Puller - take pulley off. 7) b/h crank pulley - 2- 10mm bolts for lower timing cover. (1 bolt will have to wait). 8) Support engine with wood under jack on oil pan. 9) Engine mount. 3- 14mm and a 17mm. But Phillips head on pwr steer reservoir - remove. 2 10mm bolts for bracket. 10) 6- 10mm bolts upper timing cover remove. 11) Remove lower timing chain cover. 12) 4- 10mm bolts. Water pump pulley. 13) put bolt back in crank shaft and turn to line up timing marks above (camshaft - small hole at top) & below (crank mark slightly left from top). 14) belt tensioner & idler pulley 14mm. Take off timing belt. 15) Drain anti freeze. 16) 12mm bolts for bracket. (2 more bh pwr steering pulley). 12mm bolts holding water pump. Tap on water pump to break free & release anti freeze. Clean gasket off. (17-19 ft lbs on water pump. Snug all, then alternating torque pattern). 17) Replace camshaft & crank shaft seal if desired. 18) put idler pulley back. 25-30 ft lbs. ck timing marks. Put on belt. Tensioner 14mm - tighten with 5mm hex, then tighten 14mm). 38 ft lbs (I couldn't get a torque wrench I. There o. These, so "tight"). 19) start car for 1 or 2 seconds (should fire right up). Put back together. (I found I needed all new belts ). Hope this helps someone. I took notes and had a greasy pc of paper in my hands & it helped a lot.
Thanks man just did mine yesterday but there's a chirping sound. I suspect my timing belt is too tight. It's like a humming or whining that gets louder with engine. Any ideas please by chance?
Fantastic that you gave up one of your own hands to document this. It was very complete and insightful. Thanks for taking the time to record this for us all.
just did a 2012 i30 timing belt, almost exact same procedure, just the tensioner was different, Brilliant video thank you, just tightening the crank pulley is a challenge
Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to make these videos, they really helped me understand how to make these repairs! The Hanyes/Clymers manuals don't give any of the details you really need to know as you do here, so without seeing a demonstration, I'm sure I'd wouldn't have made my belt changes properly. After I made my replacements I took a trip from MN to Idaho-over 4000 miles both ways with no troubles at all.
Remember guys you have to TWERK those bolts lol Seriously though you have saved my family hundreds of $$ , possibly thousands over the years of videos. Bless you sir
Great video, i always change crank and camshaft seals on a job like this, usually find if their not leaking when i pull it down they will start leaking down the track a bit which means practically doing the whole job again except for the water pump.
Thanks for the upload.. very informative. I especially like how you skip/fast forward through little things like removing individual bolts. I'm sure it's a lot of work on your part editing the videos but we appreciate it! I will be replacing the timing belt soon, I was hoping I wouldn't have to replace the water pump but I think I should since all of the work to get to it is already done
Very nice job on the video. I have personally replaced timing belts on other vehicles, and your attention to even the smallest details was great. Good job!
Great video!.Im about to replace timing belt on a tiburon 2008 2.0l.I also have the pdf out of car manual.Just by reference, the tightening torque of idle and tensioner pulley is 43-55 Nm/32-41 lb.ft for those interested and deflection of the belt is 4-6mm/ 0.16-0.24in / Tension 2kg(20N).Thanks for the video
Hi, my name is Gildasio, I live in Brazil, in Fortaleza, I have a Kia Cerato 2006 need to replace the belts and got no mechanic who could do the job. watched over two hundred videos and find none with changing belts Kia Cerato 2006 .. was watching your videos I learned and I will trade even the straps of my car. Congratulations on your 03 videos were very good, didactic, scored top marks to you, big hug my friend.
Thank you so much for this. Just got an 05 with 70k and I think this will be my second timing belt change, first for this car. Info was great, camera work was fantastic and clear in 720p. With this vid playing on my phone, I'm confident I can get this done myself. You're the man!
I know Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to log back into an instagram account? I somehow lost the login password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Edison Tanner Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Very good point on not over tightening the timing belt. To torque down the crank pulley there are an assortment of special tools that either grab it by wrapping around it or there is a special tool by Hyundai that uses the holes in it to keep it in place. I have always used my impact without any problems, but your way is the next most common way of doing it, also if you have a manual you can usually jam something on the teeth of the flywheel to keep it in place.
You said the timing belt is tight but not rock solid. Rock Solid is my pornstar name. Great video. You are an excellent mechanic. I hope someone is paying you well, if not you should find someone who will.
Andrew Oliver GL, take your time check your timing marks, turn the engine by hand before starting to make sure your timing marks are aligned and you should be fine. cheers
Awesome vid. Did a belt on my 98 Kia Sephia after it shredded, now have to do my 05 Elantra (preventative ;). After about a week of driving and running great it developed a knock like a bolt was being struck by the webbing of a pulley yet I could never find anything. Anyways, some other things broke and decided to scrap it never finding what was wrong. Some say it is and some say it isn't an interference engine, my guess is I bent a valve or it dropped. Again, great vid!
Thanks for your awesome video again! It had a lot of pointers the other one I watched (which is great as well) didn't include. I would have forgotten about that bolt on the bottom of the alternator that you mention at the end as well. One more thing I did on top of this that only takes a few minutes is change the thermostat. Might as well while you're at it, I figured. Now to put coolant in and test run. Fingers crossed I don't destroy this engine ;)
I recommend taking off that big engine mount to get some more room to work at the old gasket. Its the 3, 14mm bolts. Much easier to access the area to clean off the old gasket.
This fall I'll verify this video on my Sportage G4GC engine. Video seems to be clear and helpful. As to timing tension - information from G4GC engine mechanical manual says about procedure, which could help other: 1. Rotate crankshaft in regular direction through angle of two teeth (18 degrees) 2. Set tension as said in movie and tight tensioner bolt 3. Check tension by pulling belt with force approx 2kg - timing belt cog end sags in approx 4-6mm.
thanks, it was nice to get a description of what to expect! Did mine in about to hours, my only concern was the tension on the belt. But hey, tight but not to tight is what I am used to....Thanks again, now for my 3.5 Honda Motor!
Great video thank you so much for posting. You explained it very well and should save people a lot of money on this. You can buy the entire kit with the new water pump, belt and tensioners at NAPA very reasonable. Doing this yourself could save you about $500. Thanks again for all the help.
wow! that seems so intricate ... so glad that newer elantra models have timing chains instead... what a loss of money to replacing it every 100 000 kms 😕
we just purchased a 2005 with only 63,000 miles. I am going to change the timing belt. With only 63000 miles do i need to replace the timing belt tensioner and pulley? BTW great tutorial!
I have a 30g 2hp air compressor, you can always use the starter to loosen it and tighten is with your impact enough to drive to a shop to have them tighten again for you. gl
@Ratchts And Wrenches The crank pulley moved a little bit (1 tooth) off the alignment mark while putting the new belt on, no idea how that happened, both were aligned perfectly prior to install the new belt. The cam though hasn’t moved at all (still you can see the red mark through the hole) I know I am in trouble now! Because if get the belt off and move the crack pulley separately I am going to bend the valves for sure. please advice
@Mohd Raw what ended up happening. I think you could've individually moved the gear back in place but not through a full revolution but just simply back a couple clicks to where you were. My issue isn't the timing alignment but a whining or chirping sound now
hello! i want to do this job on my '03 elantra (1.6L) and i want to ask if i have to remove the engine mount and the brackets in order to remove the timing belt upper cover?
i watched it twice and now feel more confident. i have never done this before but with this guidance i can not go wrong. i am looking for guidance on the fuel pump and filter replacement of the 2006 hyundai matrix 1.6 dohc. there are lots of instructions for elantras,getzes,accents etc but nothing specific to the matrix. now i dont know if some of the others have the same setup or not. can you please help by pointing me in the right direction. i have spent three days searching and still none the wiser. Martin Brandt ps thanks again, your vide is going to save me R4800.00. M
You stated the year make and model but not the engine size. I was wondering if this is the same engine that is in my 2004 Hyundai Sonata base model, which had the 2.4L 4 cylinder engine. Could you please post back if this is the same engine? Thank you and also wanted to say great job tutorial, well done.
Such a nice video. Have a little doubt about the timing belt adjustment part. I will say a very confident work done by you and never created any confusion in viewers mind. Thank you so much. I am going to do this job on my car. Mine is 200k and engine is very noisy. Do you suggest something to reduce the noise.
can't you damage the mating/mounting surface of where the water pump goes using the angle grinder to remove the leftover gasket material? I could see if you used a liquid gasket after doing that to get any imperfections. but you had a flat gasket. keep up the great videos
I think you should be fine but it also depends on your air gun. But if you can get it off with your setup generally speaking you can get it back on and have it tightened down with enough torque. gl
Great tutorial vid. I just tackled this on a 2005 Elantra I just bought for the kids. It had 230k on original belt. One question for you, after completed the car runs great but I have a P0016 code for cam/crank correlation. I didn't touch anything else do you have any idea what happened? Thanks again!
Very high quality video. Did your tensioner have some sort of a pin hole to lock it in place? The factory guide mentions this but is thin on the details - I'm not really clear on what to do with that
really good video\!! I went through this couple of years ago on my wife Tucson. On this engine is critical to have the proper tension.As my first timing belt job I over tighten the belt which resulted on a very whining engine. After loosen it a little bit was OK, The other point that I wanted to see and is not on the video is to torque down the crank pulley. In my case I jammed a screwdriver from the pulley opening to the block. I was wondering if there was another way to do it. Thanks
Great vide im doing it the same on my 2006 kia spectra but i have a question i set the camshaft on position but the crankshaft was moved a little bit one tooth before the mark what do you suggest? Should i move only the crankshaft to the mark or leave it like that
hi friend excelent video, I have a cuestion for ya, How can I take off the bolt from damper, I have not impact pistol, can you give any sugest thank you
The only annoying part to me was taking off those tiny pulley bolts off/on (I actually used locking pliers to keep the pulley from moving because I was by myself) and scraping that gasket off with a razor
10 years later and this video is still helping people like me. Appreciate the thorough walk through. For loosening the plate attached to the water pump if you've already removed the belt you can use the old belt to wrap around it again, hold it tight with one hand and slip in a socket with extension to loosen the bolts. Also if you don't have an impact driver for loosening the nut on the camshaft attach a breaker bar with the 22mm socket wedged against the ground and hit the ignition to turn over. This will loosen the nut.
Well I've watched several people do versions of this and yours has been the most thorough .
Top idea putting zip ties around the belt and cam pulley to stop it moving.
Also nice detail on getting the timing dots lined up properly.
Thank you for your video. It was quite helpful. One thing that I did that might help others, is that when I went to put the 2 pulleys back onto the water pump, I cut off the heads of 2 bolts and screwed them into the water pump to give a place for the pulleys to hang. Once I got the bolts in place for the 2 open holes I removed the ones with the cutoff heads and placed those bolts. In that tight space, it made it significantly easier.
List to Print for Reference While Doing This Job:
1) remove - batt terminal.
2) Remove wheel & splash shield (2- 10mm bolts).
3) Alternator adjuster 12mm. Lower Alt nut (next to oil filter) 12mm. Tension off adj w 12mm. Take belt off (note: I forgot to loosen bolts on H2O pump pulley b/f taking belt off. Had to hold it w channel locks when loosening bolts).
4) Pwr steering pump. 14mm. Upper & lower loosen. Take belt off.
5) AC belt tensioner pulley w adjuster 12mm. 14mm in center. Take belt off.
6) Crank. 22mm impact wrench (or look up trick with starter - had to do bc elect impact wouldn't do it). Puller - take pulley off.
7) b/h crank pulley - 2- 10mm bolts for lower timing cover. (1 bolt will have to wait).
8) Support engine with wood under jack on oil pan.
9) Engine mount. 3- 14mm and a 17mm. But Phillips head on pwr steer reservoir - remove. 2 10mm bolts for bracket.
10) 6- 10mm bolts upper timing cover remove.
11) Remove lower timing chain cover.
12) 4- 10mm bolts. Water pump pulley.
13) put bolt back in crank shaft and turn to line up timing marks above (camshaft - small hole at top) & below (crank mark slightly left from top).
14) belt tensioner & idler pulley 14mm. Take off timing belt.
15) Drain anti freeze.
16) 12mm bolts for bracket. (2 more bh pwr steering pulley). 12mm bolts holding water pump. Tap on water pump to break free & release anti freeze. Clean gasket off. (17-19 ft lbs on water pump. Snug all, then alternating torque pattern).
17) Replace camshaft & crank shaft seal if desired.
18) put idler pulley back. 25-30 ft lbs. ck timing marks. Put on belt. Tensioner 14mm - tighten with 5mm hex, then tighten 14mm). 38 ft lbs (I couldn't get a torque wrench I. There o. These, so "tight").
19) start car for 1 or 2 seconds (should fire right up). Put back together. (I found I needed all new belts ).
Hope this helps someone. I took notes and had a greasy pc of paper in my hands & it helped a lot.
Thank you!
Tom Smith, Nah, it can be left on.
Thanks man just did mine yesterday but there's a chirping sound. I suspect my timing belt is too tight. It's like a humming or whining that gets louder with engine. Any ideas please by chance?
Watching this on the side of the road while I wait for a tow
Did you fix it? If your timing belt broke did you ruin any of the valves
Fantastic that you gave up one of your own hands to document this. It was very complete and insightful. Thanks for taking the time to record this for us all.
just did a 2012 i30 timing belt, almost exact same procedure, just the tensioner was different, Brilliant video thank you, just tightening the crank pulley is a challenge
Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to make these videos, they really helped me understand how to make these repairs! The Hanyes/Clymers manuals don't give any of the details you really need to know as you do here, so without seeing a demonstration, I'm sure I'd wouldn't have made my belt changes properly. After I made my replacements I took a trip from MN to Idaho-over 4000 miles both ways with no troubles at all.
Remember guys you have to TWERK those bolts lol Seriously though you have saved my family hundreds of $$ , possibly thousands over the years of videos. Bless you sir
Bulldozer clearest picture I've ever seen on a repair job thank you very much
This was one of the best how to's I've ever seen! Thank you!
as a mechanic myself i feel you have explained this well step by step not sure about the angle grinder as i have never have used one under the bonnet
Great work! Not even one swear word :) Like your calmness throughout.
James Grant ty, glad you liked the video. cheers
Great video, i always change crank and camshaft seals on a job like this, usually find if their not leaking when i pull it down they will start leaking down the track a bit which means practically doing the whole job again except for the water pump.
I've watched each of your three videos and learned a great deal of information .
Thank You
Thanks for the upload.. very informative. I especially like how you skip/fast forward through little things like removing individual bolts. I'm sure it's a lot of work on your part editing the videos but we appreciate it! I will be replacing the timing belt soon, I was hoping I wouldn't have to replace the water pump but I think I should since all of the work to get to it is already done
Very nice job on the video. I have personally replaced timing belts on other vehicles, and your attention to even the smallest details was great. Good job!
Great video!.Im about to replace timing belt on a tiburon 2008 2.0l.I also have the pdf out of car manual.Just by reference, the tightening torque of idle and tensioner pulley is 43-55 Nm/32-41 lb.ft for those interested and deflection of the belt is 4-6mm/ 0.16-0.24in / Tension 2kg(20N).Thanks for the video
Np, thanks for the info. Cheers
Hi, my name is Gildasio, I live in Brazil, in Fortaleza, I have a Kia Cerato 2006 need to replace the belts and got no mechanic who could do the job. watched over two hundred videos and find none with changing belts Kia Cerato 2006 .. was watching your videos I learned and I will trade even the straps of my car. Congratulations on your 03 videos were very good, didactic, scored top marks to you, big hug my friend.
God bless you good man, all 3 parts are a seminar, not a video.
Thank you so much for this. Just got an 05 with 70k and I think this will be my second timing belt change, first for this car. Info was great, camera work was fantastic and clear in 720p. With this vid playing on my phone, I'm confident I can get this done myself. You're the man!
Thank you very much for your videos on how to do this timing belt. I'm working on my 2004 Elantra right now these videos of help me out big time!
Thanks for posting this...it was immensely helpful. Did my son's 2005 Elantra, and couldn't have done it without your excellent video.
Dude, your video helped me through a truly god-awful repair. Thank you for posting such high-quality content!
I know Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow lost the login password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Devon Quinn Instablaster :)
@Edison Tanner Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Edison Tanner it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account!
@Devon Quinn Glad I could help :)
Very good point on not over tightening the timing belt. To torque down the crank pulley there are an assortment of special tools that either grab it by wrapping around it or there is a special tool by Hyundai that uses the holes in it to keep it in place. I have always used my impact without any problems, but your way is the next most common way of doing it, also if you have a manual you can usually jam something on the teeth of the flywheel to keep it in place.
What was his point on not over tightening the timing belt I didn't catch it?
Thanks for this very well done video. I followed it and replaced my timing belt last weekend.
Thank you!
Very thorough. Much appreciated, the camera work is awesome, I realize how hard that is to do. Thanks again
Np, thanks for your comment, take care!
You said the timing belt is tight but not rock solid. Rock Solid is my pornstar name.
Great video. You are an excellent mechanic. I hope someone is paying you well, if not you should find someone who will.
Thanks for this. I just changed the belt on a 99 Hyundai Accent, man that tensioner was a pain.... Still have to check it.
You make it look so easy! Great videos !! Im a diy when it comes o cars and after watching this i have some confidence in tackling a timing belt job
Andrew Oliver GL, take your time check your timing marks, turn the engine by hand before starting to make sure your timing marks are aligned and you should be fine. cheers
thank you for all your videos has helped me do head gasket and timing/water pump you are awesome
Awesome vid. Did a belt on my 98 Kia Sephia after it shredded, now have to do my 05 Elantra (preventative ;). After about a week of driving and running great it developed a knock like a bolt was being struck by the webbing of a pulley yet I could never find anything. Anyways, some other things broke and decided to scrap it never finding what was wrong. Some say it is and some say it isn't an interference engine, my guess is I bent a valve or it dropped. Again, great vid!
Thanks for your awesome video again! It had a lot of pointers the other one I watched (which is great as well) didn't include.
I would have forgotten about that bolt on the bottom of the alternator that you mention at the end as well.
One more thing I did on top of this that only takes a few minutes is change the thermostat. Might as well while you're at it, I figured.
Now to put coolant in and test run. Fingers crossed I don't destroy this engine ;)
one of the best DIY videos I've ever seen
Nice, glad to hear it. Tx for watching
I feel better about tackling this now, I'll keep you posted. Great job and vid!
If I had seen this video before have no make mistakes either but thanks for the tips God bless you
Great step by step. Almost a perfect video.
" Bravo" Great job on all three parts of video and on the replacement job Thank you Sir
I recommend taking off that big engine mount to get some more room to work at the old gasket. Its the 3, 14mm bolts. Much easier to access the area to clean off the old gasket.
This fall I'll verify this video on my Sportage G4GC engine. Video seems to be clear and helpful.
As to timing tension - information from G4GC engine mechanical manual says about procedure, which could help other:
1. Rotate crankshaft in regular direction through angle of two teeth (18 degrees)
2. Set tension as said in movie and tight tensioner bolt
3. Check tension by pulling belt with force approx 2kg - timing belt cog end sags in approx 4-6mm.
good detail and great camera angles.
Best description on U-tube. thank you.
thanks, it was nice to get a description of what to expect! Did mine in about to hours, my only concern was the tension on the belt. But hey, tight but not to tight is what I am used to....Thanks again, now for my 3.5 Honda Motor!
Great video brother.. Thank you for your time and experience to help others with this repair...
Good job man and very informative, I'll be doing my neighbor Elantra 05 car this weekend...!!
Thanks for a great video. great editing and camera angles.
R&N, Love your videos, they are so informative!
Great video thank you so much for posting. You explained it very well and should save people a lot of money on this. You can buy the entire kit with the new water pump, belt and tensioners at NAPA very reasonable. Doing this yourself could save you about $500. Thanks again for all the help.
great job one of the better how to, I have seen , i am experienced ... thanks...
Thank you very much. For these videos they really helped me. Thanks again.
Great video! Simple steps to follow! Thank you!!!
Hi, this is a 2.0L. I haven't done a timing belt job on a 2.4L sonata but it shouldnt be that different. GL and thanks for your comments!
thank you broda, your videos have helped me tremendously
wow! that seems so intricate ... so glad that newer elantra models have timing chains instead... what a loss of money to replacing it every 100 000 kms 😕
Thanks for very helpful videos, they saved me a lot. Could you please make a video for how to
replace a seized AC tension pulley? Much appreciate
Glad to hear it, thanks for your comment. cheers
Great videos, thank you so much for taking the time to do this. Well done!
we just purchased a 2005 with only 63,000 miles. I am going to change the timing belt. With only 63000 miles do i need to replace the timing belt tensioner and pulley? BTW great tutorial!
I have a 30g 2hp air compressor, you can always use the starter to loosen it and tighten is with your impact enough to drive to a shop to have them tighten again for you. gl
@Ratchts And Wrenches The crank pulley moved a little bit (1 tooth) off the alignment mark while putting the new belt on, no idea how that happened, both were aligned perfectly prior to install the new belt. The cam though hasn’t moved at all (still you can see the red mark through the hole) I know I am in trouble now! Because if get the belt off and move the crack pulley separately I am going to bend the valves for sure. please advice
@Mohd Raw what ended up happening. I think you could've individually moved the gear back in place but not through a full revolution but just simply back a couple clicks to where you were. My issue isn't the timing alignment but a whining or chirping sound now
Nice clear video and narrative. Very informational. About how long would it take with a jack and handtools only?
My question is, how can I find Tdc if my belt is broken? Good video.
hello!
i want to do this job on my '03 elantra (1.6L) and i want to ask if i have to remove the engine mount and the brackets in order to remove the timing belt upper cover?
I made it with that in mind :) thanks for your comment.
i watched it twice and now feel more confident. i have never done this before but with this guidance i can not go wrong. i am looking for guidance on the fuel pump and filter replacement of the 2006 hyundai matrix 1.6 dohc. there are lots of instructions for elantras,getzes,accents etc but nothing specific to the matrix. now i dont know if some of the others have the same setup or not. can you please help by pointing me in the right direction. i have spent three days searching and still none the wiser. Martin Brandt ps thanks again, your vide is going to save me R4800.00. M
thank you great work ... I wonder if I can use regular tool to open the bolt of camshaft coz i don't have airgun!
Brilliant Video Detail and Well Explained and job well done !
This was an excellent tutorial, thanks !
Great video; thanks! What coolant do you recommend we refill with?
You stated the year make and model but not the engine size. I was wondering if this is the same engine that is in my 2004 Hyundai Sonata base model, which had the 2.4L 4 cylinder engine. Could you please post back if this is the same engine? Thank you and also wanted to say great job tutorial, well done.
Such a nice video. Have a little doubt about the timing belt adjustment part. I will say a very confident work done by you and never created any confusion in viewers mind. Thank you so much. I am going to do this job on my car. Mine is 200k and engine is very noisy. Do you suggest something to reduce the noise.
Thanks for your comment, there is no way to suggest anything without hearing the noise, sorry.
Awesome video I ve learned a lot about my Tiburon :D
great work for the three parts
can't you damage the mating/mounting surface of where the water pump goes using the angle grinder to remove the leftover gasket material? I could see if you used a liquid gasket after doing that to get any imperfections. but you had a flat gasket. keep up the great videos
Awesome job on the video. Thanks.
I think you should be fine but it also depends on your air gun. But if you can get it off with your setup generally speaking you can get it back on and have it tightened down with enough torque. gl
Great tutorial vid. I just tackled this on a 2005 Elantra I just bought for the kids. It had 230k on original belt. One question for you, after completed the car runs great but I have a P0016 code for cam/crank correlation. I didn't touch anything else do you have any idea what happened? Thanks again!
topcatrsb I am experiencing the same thing.. did you ever figure it out?
The crank gear was off a tooth. I had to loosen belt and move crank a tooth and reinstall belt. That took care of it.
Very high quality video. Did your tensioner have some sort of a pin hole to lock it in place? The factory guide mentions this but is thin on the details - I'm not really clear on what to do with that
Excellent Video Sir! I do Applaud You, very well done. It helped me a ton Thank You!
Thank you was worried about this job I have a 2013 elantra with 70000 km
really good video\!! I went through this couple of years ago on my wife Tucson.
On this engine is critical to have the proper tension.As my first timing belt job I over tighten the belt which resulted on a very whining engine. After loosen it a little bit was OK,
The other point that I wanted to see and is not on the video is to torque down the crank pulley. In my case I jammed a screwdriver from the pulley opening to the block. I was wondering if there was another way to do it.
Thanks
Yw, glad you found them useful. Cheers
very good quality video fantastic explanation and tips, thank you, this is great
thanks for uploading this my man keep up the good work
Awesome video. Thank you!
Excellent videos! Very helpful thanks!
yeah man ! thanks for doing the video its really good and you have helped out a lot
Great vide im doing it the same on my 2006 kia spectra but i have a question i set the camshaft on position but the crankshaft was moved a little bit one tooth before the mark what do you suggest? Should i move only the crankshaft to the mark or leave it like that
great job on this video.very helpful
Great video!! How did you tighten the crankshaft bolt to the specific torque without the crankshaft moving.
I didnt, I just hit it with my impact. cheers
thanks for this video dude grettings from Costa Rica, did you help me a lot thanks
On the tension idler (6:59 in the video) if you went clock wise instead of counter, what would be the consequences? ??
yw, glad you like it. Cheers
Thanks for the great instructions!!
Great videos and very informative !
thanks for uploading this my man keep up the Christ work
Good videos man.
hi friend excelent video, I have a cuestion for ya, How can I take off the bolt from damper,
I have not impact pistol, can you give any sugest thank you
Excellent video
The only annoying part to me was taking off those tiny pulley bolts off/on (I actually used locking pliers to keep the pulley from moving because I was by myself) and scraping that gasket off with a razor
You mean ya bf did... 😆
@@joeespisito9200 huh 😒
Ok on the harmonic balancer. Should it be TDC? When the cam is TDC??. Or should it be 6 to 10 before TDC???