I always trim the heat shrink around the heat sink. You made that cheap esc 100% better with a little work. I also run a small $10 fan from Furitek next to my am32's
But i am trying out a lil bit better motor now with the mofo torque beast 050 gotta get a better esc the 20a mb100 cant handle 2 higher torque servo's nor motor especially all 3 combined
@ oh yeah im just waiting on payday n getting a rockwolfe esc from mofo its a 45a i believe yeah i just out modded my equipment time go upgrade just wish id have figured it out in June lol
@@jackawaki looks like manufacturer was just using the tape pad and the heat shrink to hold it down. I've bonded that heat sink down with thermal epoxy heat shrink basically cooked itself off, I've removed it, seems to be ok trailing, but 30 seconds of slow throttle modulation it gets hot
@ yeah will work fine I’m sure . So just my two cents I took of thermal paste and I put a dot of epoxy on each corner and glued it down for my buddy’s rig and it never got hot been going like 12 weeks . Maybe something to think about if you run into another one like that?
@jackawaki its still getting hot when you try and squeeze slow crawl with it. But I have noticed I can squeeze a little more from it. I feel as this is not a good system I just can't recommend it after my experience unfortunately. No reason wiring should get hot in 30 seconds of slow crawl start up.
@@jackawaki Yah I just wanted everyone aware this is an issue, 30+ years I've literally never had this problem and I've ran countless setups including over geared stuff pushing limits of esc's on short coarse race trucks as well as crawlers.
This is all speculation but It almost seems like that esc/motor was designed for high speed basher applications not for crawling. It doesn’t seem to be designed for efficient handling of high load inrush current. With initial throttle inputs and how the motor is designed you get tremendous load on initial startup then the load decreases and levels out when the motor gets to a higher rpm (easier to run). I’ve not read too much into the AM32 code and circuit design but Holmes Hobby Crawlmaster v3 has the same esc layout where the heatsinks is held on by thermal adhesive strip and heat shrink, but don’t get anywhere near that hot. It’s like 9Imod tried to adapt a basher esc for crawling and it’s not handling the load efficiently at all. Getting an electric motor to start turning (efficiently) is hard, getting an electric motor to stay turning is easy. Very interesting test and sucks that it didn’t work for the application but good knowledge.
@@NEO-RC yes something is definitely wrong, I've checked and checked settings changed everything multiple times, dropped gearing to absolutely the lowest possible now. Once you make the throttle break over that initial point it runs cool as can be, I ran a complete 3s pack through last night trailing never an issue until you try and pull that slow throttle modulation for more than 30 seconds. Shame this system has potential to because it actually works pretty well.
@ that capacitor on the esc, its soul purpose is to kickstart that motor turning. My bet is their circuit design is not meant to be that initial kickstart range all the time where crawlers like to run.
@NEO-RC I was thinking the same thing, as this basically a Rhino AM32 clone, they have probably used a cheaper part to knock the price down a bit. Once you make that throttle break over which isn't much over creep speed it'll cool back down like you poured ice water on it. I mean I guess its usable in a trail pig maybe but definitely people using them need to keep an close watch on this system. I was able to get the 2nd 3s pack on it last night trailing will see how long it'll last trailing before magic smoke. Thanks for the info Neo much appreciated
its all on your settings. i have 3 of these and they work well , for heat id turn down your timing or sin or just mess with the setting more all am32 based esc will get hot if you stay in sin mode with setting s incorect. can you show your settings, i will make a video of tihs esc too with how to program it etc, you need to program it before you run it . set kv voltage cutoff sin etc
@@jdmtyteeeyo I did program it, set KV didn't mess with the timing I'll try that and see what happens. I have to borrow my brother's laptop and film the settings I mean I maybe missed something because I am new to this style. I could only get within close on KV settings because of how the programming worked on this.
@ yeah boouy i did that on a drill once n it musta been way hotter cuz i only did like you n i got the whole tip of my poor widdle sausage burnt up felt like a hot dog after gettin dropped in the coals n was whiter than an albino buck in a snow storm lol
@ yeah yesterday morning it was low 40's n my buddy came over ta help me with the shed roof n i couldnt do it my hands was hurting so bad where its been rainin n where i worshed dishes for so long at cracker barrel n golden corral my hands dont do cold especially cold n wet
Great video review on the 9imod, definitely not for slow crawling.. it wood make an awesome trailing system 👍
I think if it had better thermal paste maybe? Great video as always always entertaining thank you
I always trim the heat shrink around the heat sink. You made that cheap esc 100% better with a little work. I also run a small $10 fan from Furitek next to my am32's
@@brianmorrison2846 Thanks and this system is ok for trailing but anything that requires more slow I'd highly not recommend it Rc brother
👍🚚🚚👀
Awesome review little RC brother
Thanks my Rc brother 👊
See brushless are great in 24's but i stick with the brushed cheaper n more readily available down here
But i am trying out a lil bit better motor now with the mofo torque beast 050 gotta get a better esc the 20a mb100 cant handle 2 higher torque servo's nor motor especially all 3 combined
@DubVredneck I wish I could help ya, I don't know much about the 24th stuff. I think Furitek makes a nice brushless system for them bro
@ oh yeah im just waiting on payday n getting a rockwolfe esc from mofo its a 45a i believe yeah i just out modded my equipment time go upgrade just wish id have figured it out in June lol
That white is a cheap two sided thermal tape normally when they use that it has like tabs at the corners to hold the heat sink down.
@@jackawaki looks like manufacturer was just using the tape pad and the heat shrink to hold it down. I've bonded that heat sink down with thermal epoxy heat shrink basically cooked itself off, I've removed it, seems to be ok trailing, but 30 seconds of slow throttle modulation it gets hot
@ yeah will work fine I’m sure . So just my two cents I took of thermal paste and I put a dot of epoxy on each corner and glued it down for my buddy’s rig and it never got hot been going like 12 weeks . Maybe something to think about if you run into another one like that?
@jackawaki its still getting hot when you try and squeeze slow crawl with it. But I have noticed I can squeeze a little more from it. I feel as this is not a good system I just can't recommend it after my experience unfortunately. No reason wiring should get hot in 30 seconds of slow crawl start up.
@@RcDungeon yeah maybe see he didn’t have that motor so I have no run time or experience with that one
@@jackawaki Yah I just wanted everyone aware this is an issue, 30+ years I've literally never had this problem and I've ran countless setups including over geared stuff pushing limits of esc's on short coarse race trucks as well as crawlers.
That looks like piece of thermal pad. i think the heatsink was kept in place just by the heatshrink wrap with no adhesive or glue.
@@sputnikwood I'm thinking same thing that thermal pad just basically fell apart
This is all speculation but It almost seems like that esc/motor was designed for high speed basher applications not for crawling. It doesn’t seem to be designed for efficient handling of high load inrush current. With initial throttle inputs and how the motor is designed you get tremendous load on initial startup then the load decreases and levels out when the motor gets to a higher rpm (easier to run). I’ve not read too much into the AM32 code and circuit design but Holmes Hobby Crawlmaster v3 has the same esc layout where the heatsinks is held on by thermal adhesive strip and heat shrink, but don’t get anywhere near that hot. It’s like 9Imod tried to adapt a basher esc for crawling and it’s not handling the load efficiently at all. Getting an electric motor to start turning (efficiently) is hard, getting an electric motor to stay turning is easy.
Very interesting test and sucks that it didn’t work for the application but good knowledge.
@@NEO-RC yes something is definitely wrong, I've checked and checked settings changed everything multiple times, dropped gearing to absolutely the lowest possible now. Once you make the throttle break over that initial point it runs cool as can be, I ran a complete 3s pack through last night trailing never an issue until you try and pull that slow throttle modulation for more than 30 seconds. Shame this system has potential to because it actually works pretty well.
@ that capacitor on the esc, its soul purpose is to kickstart that motor turning. My bet is their circuit design is not meant to be that initial kickstart range all the time where crawlers like to run.
@NEO-RC I was thinking the same thing, as this basically a Rhino AM32 clone, they have probably used a cheaper part to knock the price down a bit. Once you make that throttle break over which isn't much over creep speed it'll cool back down like you poured ice water on it. I mean I guess its usable in a trail pig maybe but definitely people using them need to keep an close watch on this system. I was able to get the 2nd 3s pack on it last night trailing will see how long it'll last trailing before magic smoke. Thanks for the info Neo much appreciated
@ no problem, I may be completely wrong but that’s what looks might be going on.
its all on your settings. i have 3 of these and they work well , for heat id turn down your timing or sin or just mess with the setting more all am32 based esc will get hot if you stay in sin mode with setting s incorect. can you show your settings, i will make a video of tihs esc too with how to program it etc, you need to program it before you run it . set kv voltage cutoff sin etc
@@jdmtyteeeyo I did program it, set KV didn't mess with the timing I'll try that and see what happens. I have to borrow my brother's laptop and film the settings I mean I maybe missed something because I am new to this style. I could only get within close on KV settings because of how the programming worked on this.
Yeah boy ya pulled back a bunt hotdog right there yhat was hot you can tell by the quickness you removed your temp tester back ouch
Yah she was smoking hot Rc brother 🔥
@ left that white blister probably lol
@DubVredneck no got lucky and pulled away fast enough lol!
@ yeah boouy i did that on a drill once n it musta been way hotter cuz i only did like you n i got the whole tip of my poor widdle sausage burnt up felt like a hot dog after gettin dropped in the coals n was whiter than an albino buck in a snow storm lol
@DubVredneck lol! Yah I've burnt myself bad on a battery drill doing the same thing 😆
Good video and I will not be this ESC even if I ran it on a different motor. What truck is that? Thanks for sharing your videos with us.
@@kinslersrccustoms6945 Thanks, its my old beat up Holmes Sherpa chassis rig. Just wanted people aware they might run into heat issues.
Yeah it was 55-60 here today
@@DubVredneck oh bro it was way cold here man!
@ yeah yesterday morning it was low 40's n my buddy came over ta help me with the shed roof n i couldnt do it my hands was hurting so bad where its been rainin n where i worshed dishes for so long at cracker barrel n golden corral my hands dont do cold especially cold n wet
Yo❤
@@peterGriffin-ug7jv I just want people to be aware of safety concern with this system
It was chilly here but not cold what was the high there today?
@@DubVredneck 46 degrees