This is a smart modification to make on our 1500mm Axis. Continual improvements on our machines by the Worldwide Open-Source Community is exactly what we like to see by our customers. We love to see this type of feedback and will keep this in mind for our future designs. Great video, GREAT BUILD!
I'm planning on ordering one from you in the next month or so. Would you be willing to either have an extra 1-2 inch length added to the lead screw or have the extrusion cut down by that much? Thanks!
@@sethl1515 Hi Seth, if you contact us prior to making your purchase with this request we can change the Lead Screw Length for your order so that you can implement the feature in this video. Please contact the customer support of the sales channel you choose.
I have one of the very early 1000mm x 1000mm Workbees and, being a cheapskate, I don't want to scrap the existing lead screws for ones only a few millimetres longer to allow tensioning the lead screws with a clamp on the "free" end. I plan to drill and tap this end of each lead screw and locktite a 14.9 grade M3 stud in. This will allow me to tension the lead screw fairly accurately because the tension can be obtained by stretching the lead screw by a well controlled amount using the fine pitch of the stud. For a 1000mm lead screw I estimate we need of the order 0.2mm of stretch to obtain around 100kgf tension in the lead screw.
This a great stop gap solution. The true problem is the lead screw diameter is under sized. Shaft whip is to be considered on any rotating machinery and is dependent on the length to diameter ratio of the shaft, shaft tension and rotation speed. Shaft whip is mostly due to to the sag of the shaft over it's length, which is an eccentricity, and when rotated, causes the shaft to whip. Tensioning helps by reducing the sag, but will not remove the whip fully. It just changes the critical speed at which it occurs. Such a long length of screw would need quite a large diameter screw to eliminate whip completely.
Yes, I was thinking the same. When he said 8mm screw I thought that is a mistake - it should be 12 mm at least or maybe even 16 mm to stop it from sagging under its own weight. Sean found a solution that deals with a part of the problem, eliminating some of the additional forces, applied externally, by the frame. However there is a caveat to increasing the diameter, because the added weight of a 12 or 16 mm lead screw will introduce some other factors into the equation, putting more load on the motors. I am not familiar with this machine, but if the motor on that axis does not have enough torque, or it's already at its limit... well, it's game over. Maybe the fact that they kept using a 8mm lead screw in such a long axis is in fact a compromise - power vs weight... Also, another thought is that reversing the support plate and putting tension on that lead screw will modify the geometry of the whole frame a little bit. It would be nice to see a test with a simple square carved in a piece of wood and measure the deviation that occurs...
The change of the bearing to the outside of the endplates is a good idea but with the tension applied to the roller bearing in the "wrong" direction will cause the roller bearing to fail quickly, it may be a advantage to place thrust bearing between the roller bearing and the collar. To minimise the dust to settle in the open thrust bearing i made large washers with dense felt that fit snugly over the thrust bearings
good job m8. but they are roller bearrings you need thrust bearrings for that application. i have a 1515 and no whip but bulkman can shove their instructions where sun dont shine. in the end i built kit my way and it works. roller bearrings dont work under side to side compression. thrust bearrings are the only logical way to put rod in tension .
Thanks for the video. Was having problems with leadscrew whip on a Workbee 1515 and this is a fantastic solution. Purchased longer leadscrews from Bulkman3D to avoid trimming the v-slot and cbeam. Looks like Bulkman3D is now selling the 1500mm kits with longer leadscrews and a tool to help set the tension.
Bulman3D included a black threaded plastic knurled knob about the size of a hockey puck, labeled "Lead Screw Tensioner", with my recent WorkBee kit. You can use it to load tension on the lead screw and then tighten the lock ring. Works great...
So is the 1510 or 1515 lead screw workbee is now consider as stable and reliable as the 1010 ? (Not as "accurate" and rigide of course) Also do those nut wears on such high speed ?
@@geekoid183 By tensioning the screw the whip can brought down to the same level as a 1000mm screw un-tensioned. But it is considered as stable with the screw tensioned.
Wow. I actually ordered and installed a new 1500mm ball screw, knowing that the original had a slight bow to it when it was installed. Bad wobble if I pushed it much beyond 250IPM. I was able to achieve well over 100IPM faster with the new screw, but only for a couple of days, then the wobble returned, mysteriously. In the process of troubleshooting the issue, I stumbled upon this video. Since I designed and built my machine, it was easier for me to introduce tension on the axis. What happened? when I loosened the BK12 mounting bolts and pulled on it to add tension, it came right off! The Jesus clip that was supposed to be holding that end of the screw fixed had fallen off, which likely led to the wobble in the first place. I replaced the clip, tightened her up and kaboom! No more wobble! Now I need to get better Jesus clips... Sincere thanks and best wishes!
Hi all! Instead of using a collar with a machined grub screw, why not use a brass lead screw Nut to adjust the tension on the main lead screw the support bearing has to be the type that accepts radial load , suggest drilling and taping the brass lead screw nut to keep it from turning to keep the tension on the main lead screw!
I used the thinnest oil I could find. SAE 10 I believe. Sawing machine oil. It's been OK for quite a while. I keep an eye on it for dust and the like, but so far, problem fixed.
Thank you for the video. I currently run a machine using belts and was looking for an upgrade with screws and a bit bigger. I was looking at the Workbee at the same size you have. Being able to use screws on that size helps my decision. I realize you may not have any context on this but I'll ask anyway. Do you think there will be much difference in accuracy between the 750x1000mm one and the 1000x15000m one? Due to greater flex in the Y and X spans? I would love to be able to mill that size but not at the loss of accuracy. Any shared experience would help greatly. Thanks.
With the locking collar on the opposit side of the end plate, you need that distance. It's possible you could use the shaft coupler in place of the locking colar though. I'm not near my machine to measure those parts. It moght work.
I think if you are in compression, 1.5m is pretty unusable. If you are putting the srews in tension, you are probably OK at the longer lengths. You will likely find it necessary to apply a greater tension preload and will need thrust bearings.
I was hoping for something longer as well, but I think the lead screw situation makes it near impossible. There is too much bend or deflection. If there was a rack and pinion version, that would make it possible.
Hi Sean, cam across your video. I am considering a CNC machine to get into making some wood and metal projects, carvings, cut outs, etc. I don't know much about them but I have a limited budget. What do you think about the Workbee CNC's? Looks like the kits come with everything but the MDF table/platform.. Do they have the ability to set the zero level against the surface you are working on? Would you recommend air or water cooled? Thanks
If you are looking for a hobby level CNC, then you will do well with the workbee. I think for a first timer, you want to be sure you understand the entire drawing, CAM and control dynamic. Be sure you are purchasing something that is not a significant stretch for you to learn. Mach3 as a control software is very tricky to make work for a new user.
That was not the purpose. The purpose was improving performance during rapids. It allows the machine to run at a faster rate without problems. There have also been instances where people have bent their lead screw. This will prevent that as well.
Just a thought. Might it not be an easier job to get some of the brass lead screw nuts that is available and use that as a tentioner. You will still need to drill and tap for a grub screw to lock it in place. just google 8mm lead screw nut if you want to see what it looks like.
You could check motor tuning in ports and pins on MAch3 or confirm that all axes are set up the same. Or one could be micro stepping and the other not. That's typically specific to the driver or the dip switches or jumpers.
thats still quite allot of whip, what i dont get is who thought compression was a good idea ? when tension used be aware you need to change out your bearings , to trust bearings not only axial. or you will destroy them in no time. nice video anyhow !!
Thanks. The clamp was a great idea. I just moved the gantry to the center of Y and then pulled the lead screw by hand to get a slight tension. You are right, btw: Workbee does supply longer lead screws in their V2, with 'Tingle Tension Extensions' is what they call them. I might order longer lead screws and put some push bearings on the outside. Regular bearings are not supposed to handle axial forces.
In tha t last section I was running at 5000mm/min which comes to 196in/min but in testing I believe I was at 8000mm/min which comes to 196in/min. I think the problem I ran into was motor stalling at that point. I'll likely go to a 36V power supply and bigger motors.
@@TheFeFactor I forgot to say that in the video so I put a note at the bottom of the screen. The end plates on the opposite end of the machine are also swapped. This is very important to being able to tension the screws.
@@seanmartin8770 for a while now I was thinking to tension the rods and while preparing for it I got a set of this clamps www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IL5GPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 they should have a very good holding power.
I just ordered the 1500x1500 from bulkman, I'm wondering wouldn't a multi start screw lessen the whip? I'm thinking a 4 start 3/8" acme rod. What do you think?
The Whip has to do with the fact that the screw is under a buckling load that actually buckles it. A 3/8in screw is going to buckle under a similar load to a 8mm screw. The only way to combat the problem be changing screws is to go with a larger diameter screw.
@@grahamshere I'm not sure how a bigger motor mount would help. I'd need to see your solution. As mentioned, cutting the c-beam is not necessary if you get longer screws. I was unwilling to wait for them and did not feel that shortening my c-beam by 1/2in impacted my travel enough to be a problem for me. I can still cut 48in of material, so a partial 4'X8' sheet is no problem.
I've contacted a seller and they've offered to give me an extra 10 mm added to the lead screw length. Do you think that will be enough to get the bearing and collar on the outside?Thanks for the video. It alleviates my worry about getting the bigger machine
The challenge with that approach is that the motors have to lift the weight of whatever axis is being moved against gravity. You would need bigger stepper motors and possibly drivers too. There may be additional wear on some components too.
would adding springs between the end grub and frame give you even more tension? www.mcmaster.com/9657k636 one of these springs on each end would give you an extra 20 lbs of tension. why didn't you just increase the threaded rod to 12mm?
I have 4 CNC routers in Watkins Colorado and one in Berthoud Colorado. Interest would depend on timing. Right now the 3 commercial machines are running our jobs 4 days a week 10hrs a day, but it's a seasonal thing. You can give me a call if you like.
Who the hell would use 8t trapezoid 2mm pitch power screws in a cnc table lol? Wow you got screwed literally if you paid for those. Those are designed to be used with 0 to 80rpm inmind to start with at a max length of 400mm. That is spec rated for those screws. Provided you have 304 stainless screws and 8070 copper nuts. Anything above 80rpm will damaged those with a force greater then your wife bitch slapping you for wasting money on that. 1200mm 12mm ball screw with bearings and nut. 0 to 850rpm cost 55$ and won't bend anyhow cause of its twisted design even under loads. Not as much friction and does not turn to a sloppy mess. Acme screws are not even designed period to be used with any kind of stepper or motor. NOT trying to be the black cloud here but worked the BRAND name Canada product would never used acme screws in a product. You got what you paid for a China knockoff
This is a smart modification to make on our 1500mm Axis. Continual improvements on our machines by the Worldwide Open-Source Community is exactly what we like to see by our customers. We love to see this type of feedback and will keep this in mind for our future designs. Great video, GREAT BUILD!
I'm planning on ordering one from you in the next month or so. Would you be willing to either have an extra 1-2 inch length added to the lead screw or have the extrusion cut down by that much? Thanks!
@@sethl1515 Hi Seth, if you contact us prior to making your purchase with this request we can change the Lead Screw Length for your order so that you can implement the feature in this video. Please contact the customer support of the sales channel you choose.
Bulkman do you have an option if using ethernet smoothstepper with your workbee?
You watching and commenting on a video like this gives me confidence i made a good decision buying one today
I have one of the very early 1000mm x 1000mm Workbees and, being a cheapskate, I don't want to scrap the existing lead screws for ones only a few millimetres longer to allow tensioning the lead screws with a clamp on the "free" end. I plan to drill and tap this end of each lead screw and locktite a 14.9 grade M3 stud in. This will allow me to tension the lead screw fairly accurately because the tension can be obtained by stretching the lead screw by a well controlled amount using the fine pitch of the stud. For a 1000mm lead screw I estimate we need of the order 0.2mm of stretch to obtain around 100kgf tension in the lead screw.
This a great stop gap solution. The true problem is the lead screw diameter is under sized. Shaft whip is to be considered on any rotating machinery and is dependent on the length to diameter ratio of the shaft, shaft tension and rotation speed.
Shaft whip is mostly due to to the sag of the shaft over it's length, which is an eccentricity, and when rotated, causes the shaft to whip. Tensioning helps by reducing the sag, but will not remove the whip fully. It just changes the critical speed at which it occurs. Such a long length of screw would need quite a large diameter screw to eliminate whip completely.
Yes, I was thinking the same. When he said 8mm screw I thought that is a mistake - it should be 12 mm at least or maybe even 16 mm to stop it from sagging under its own weight. Sean found a solution that deals with a part of the problem, eliminating some of the additional forces, applied externally, by the frame. However there is a caveat to increasing the diameter, because the added weight of a 12 or 16 mm lead screw will introduce some other factors into the equation, putting more load on the motors. I am not familiar with this machine, but if the motor on that axis does not have enough torque, or it's already at its limit... well, it's game over. Maybe the fact that they kept using a 8mm lead screw in such a long axis is in fact a compromise - power vs weight... Also, another thought is that reversing the support plate and putting tension on that lead screw will modify the geometry of the whole frame a little bit. It would be nice to see a test with a simple square carved in a piece of wood and measure the deviation that occurs...
The change of the bearing to the outside of the endplates is a good idea but with the tension applied to the roller bearing in the "wrong" direction will cause the roller bearing to fail quickly, it may be a advantage to place thrust bearing between the roller bearing and the collar. To minimise the dust to settle in the open thrust bearing i made large washers with dense felt that fit snugly over the thrust bearings
good job m8. but they are roller bearrings you need thrust bearrings for that application. i have a 1515 and no whip but bulkman can shove their instructions where sun dont shine. in the end i built kit my way and it works. roller bearrings dont work under side to side compression. thrust bearrings are the only logical way to put rod in tension .
Agreed. I have thrust in hand but have not had to change them yet.
Matthew have you got a link to the thrust bearings?
Thanks for the video. Was having problems with leadscrew whip on a Workbee 1515 and this is a fantastic solution. Purchased longer leadscrews from Bulkman3D to avoid trimming the v-slot and cbeam. Looks like Bulkman3D is now selling the 1500mm kits with longer leadscrews and a tool to help set the tension.
Glad it helped
Thanks for the video. I'll be sharing this a lot on the forums.
Thank you.
Great video. I kept wondering what people were talking about with whip because my machine is only 1000x1000.
Very smart approach. I have a mpcnc but i just subbed to your channel. Thank you for sharing
Well done and easy to do ! Great! Thanks
Well done mate, I will be building my new machine like this 👍
Very important tip...thanks brother
Bulman3D included a black threaded plastic knurled knob about the size of a hockey puck, labeled "Lead Screw Tensioner", with my recent WorkBee kit. You can use it to load tension on the lead screw and then tighten the lock ring. Works great...
Nice , I'll be following
Great Video Sean! Looks like great minds think alike. Just last week we started selling 1500mm screw drives with the screw in tension.
Can you buy the tensioner?
@@canoe-shelburne All you need is a nut with a thread matching the thread on the screw you are using.
So is the 1510 or 1515 lead screw workbee is now consider as stable and reliable as the 1010 ? (Not as "accurate" and rigide of course) Also do those nut wears on such high speed ?
@@ooznest where can they be purchased. I have 8mm lead screws
@@geekoid183 By tensioning the screw the whip can brought down to the same level as a 1000mm screw un-tensioned. But it is considered as stable with the screw tensioned.
I'm going to give this a try on my C-Beam XL, while not at 1500mm I still have whip at present in my x Axis of 100mm.
Thanks!!! Siguiendo 💪👍
Wow. I actually ordered and installed a new 1500mm ball screw, knowing that the original had a slight bow to it when it was installed. Bad wobble if I pushed it much beyond 250IPM. I was able to achieve well over 100IPM faster with the new screw, but only for a couple of days, then the wobble returned, mysteriously. In the process of troubleshooting the issue, I stumbled upon this video.
Since I designed and built my machine, it was easier for me to introduce tension on the axis. What happened? when I loosened the BK12 mounting bolts and pulled on it to add tension, it came right off! The Jesus clip that was supposed to be holding that end of the screw fixed had fallen off, which likely led to the wobble in the first place. I replaced the clip, tightened her up and kaboom! No more wobble!
Now I need to get better Jesus clips...
Sincere thanks and best wishes!
well tension and temperature might give you more or less woble over time and broken bearings .. since they are stressed non stop
Hi all! Instead of using a collar with a machined grub screw, why not use a brass lead screw Nut to adjust the tension on the main lead screw the support bearing has to be the type that accepts radial load , suggest drilling and taping the brass lead screw nut to keep it from turning to keep the tension on the main lead screw!
Was just about to comment the same thing. Great idea
The new Workman has the Tingle tension system installed.
Yep. I created this video and then that system was made available. Still not sure where they came up with the name tingle.
Couldn't you use a couple of Belview washers to tension the screw?
I used a super light oil. I think SAE10. Does that sound right? Something, something 10 anyway.
Sounds like what you’re saying is that the long axis needs a bigger dia screw. Is it a 2 start? Good video.
That would also be a solution.
I used the thinnest oil I could find. SAE 10 I believe. Sawing machine oil. It's been OK for quite a while. I keep an eye on it for dust and the like, but so far, problem fixed.
great idea
also would like to know which spindle you put instead of dewalt/makita ?
thanks
Its the chinese 1.5kw air cooled. Once set up, it seems adequate for anything I would cut with a light duty machine line this one.
Thank you for the video. I currently run a machine using belts and was looking for an upgrade with screws and a bit bigger. I was looking at the Workbee at the same size you have. Being able to use screws on that size helps my decision. I realize you may not have any context on this but I'll ask anyway. Do you think there will be much difference in accuracy between the 750x1000mm one and the 1000x15000m one? Due to greater flex in the Y and X spans? I would love to be able to mill that size but not at the loss of accuracy.
Any shared experience would help greatly. Thanks.
Deflection in a beam varies with the cube of the length so a reduction in rail length will definitely reduce deflection and improve accuracy.
Another thought. Would it make sense to shorten the spacers that hold the stepper motors to the rails to gain the space needed??
With the locking collar on the opposit side of the end plate, you need that distance. It's possible you could use the shaft coupler in place of the locking colar though. I'm not near my machine to measure those parts. It moght work.
What is the max screw length that can be used in the C channel before the Flex becomes unstable? Using 3rd party screws can 2500mm length be acheived?
I think if you are in compression, 1.5m is pretty unusable. If you are putting the srews in tension, you are probably OK at the longer lengths. You will likely find it necessary to apply a greater tension preload and will need thrust bearings.
I'd love to see more videos on your CNC. I wish they made a kit that was 60" x 60" but I might get the Workbee 1510. Are you using Mach4?
I was hoping for something longer as well, but I think the lead screw situation makes it near impossible. There is too much bend or deflection. If there was a rack and pinion version, that would make it possible.
Hi Sean, cam across your video. I am considering a CNC machine to get into making some wood and metal projects, carvings, cut outs, etc. I don't know much about them but I have a limited budget. What do you think about the Workbee CNC's? Looks like the kits come with everything but the MDF table/platform.. Do they have the ability to set the zero level against the surface you are working on? Would you recommend air or water cooled? Thanks
If you are looking for a hobby level CNC, then you will do well with the workbee. I think for a first timer, you want to be sure you understand the entire drawing, CAM and control dynamic. Be sure you are purchasing something that is not a significant stretch for you to learn. Mach3 as a control software is very tricky to make work for a new user.
The workbee 1515 seems like a great value and looks pretty rigid....csn anyone let me know if its a good machine
how different did the machine behave after that fix? Did it make more precise cuts?
That was not the purpose. The purpose was improving performance during rapids. It allows the machine to run at a faster rate without problems. There have also been instances where people have bent their lead screw. This will prevent that as well.
Did you cut just the C-beams or did you cut the other beams as well?? I have the Workbee 1500x1500 and it has 4 beams to support the MDF sheet
Mine is 1000C1500 so I just cut the longest beams. In your case it might be better to purchase longer lead screws.
how about y-plates? can you flip those? if i order 1500x1500 leadscrew workbee
Those plates are mirror images of each other, so you should be able to swap the sides and put the x-axis in tension too.
Just a thought. Might it not be an easier job to get some of the brass lead screw nuts that is available and use that as a tentioner. You will still need to drill and tap for a grub screw to lock it in place. just google 8mm lead screw nut if you want to see what it looks like.
what size of table is that 1000mm x 1000mm? looks bigger?
It is 1500X1000.
I had to do the same thing to my machine. But one of my y axis on my cloned driver drv2288 is running at a different speeds.
Any ideas?
You could check motor tuning in ports and pins on MAch3 or confirm that all axes are set up the same. Or one could be micro stepping and the other not. That's typically specific to the driver or the dip switches or jumpers.
Can you use a lead screw nut instead of the locking collar?
I would think so. You'd probably need a set screw on that nut. I did not have one or even search to see if they are available.
Where can you get a lead screw that long? I would like to do this.
It looks like Seth above you has found one, but I believe bulkman should be able to.
What spindle is that ?what do you need to add it to your CNC
I have a 1.5kw chinese spindle on there.
What's a meter?
thats still quite allot of whip, what i dont get is who thought compression was a good idea ? when tension used be aware you need to change out your bearings , to trust bearings not only axial. or you will destroy them in no time. nice video anyhow !!
Or could it be that the diameter of the screw is to small?
Thanks.
The clamp was a great idea. I just moved the gantry to the center of Y and then pulled the lead screw by hand to get a slight tension.
You are right, btw: Workbee does supply longer lead screws in their V2, with 'Tingle Tension Extensions' is what they call them.
I might order longer lead screws and put some push bearings on the outside. Regular bearings are not supposed to handle axial forces.
How fast are your rapids now? I have exactly the same issue on my Work-bee and cannot run it faster than 55 I/M
In tha t last section I was running at 5000mm/min which comes to 196in/min but in testing I believe I was at 8000mm/min which comes to 196in/min. I think the problem I ran into was motor stalling at that point. I'll likely go to a 36V power supply and bigger motors.
@@seanmartin8770 did you do anything on the motors side to prevent ACME rods from being pulled out of the couplings?
@@TheFeFactor I forgot to say that in the video so I put a note at the bottom of the screen. The end plates on the opposite end of the machine are also swapped. This is very important to being able to tension the screws.
@@seanmartin8770 for a while now I was thinking to tension the rods and while preparing for it I got a set of this clamps www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IL5GPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 they should have a very good holding power.
@@TheFeFactor Those look great. I'm interested in trying thrust bearings as well. They are the F8-16M miniature Axial Thrust bearings.
I just ordered the 1500x1500 from bulkman, I'm wondering wouldn't a multi start screw lessen the whip? I'm thinking a 4 start 3/8" acme rod. What do you think?
Also instead of cutting the cbeam, could you not just make bigger motor mounts?
also instead of cutting your cbeam could you not just make bigger motor mounts?
wonder why my reply didn't show up the first time?
The Whip has to do with the fact that the screw is under a buckling load that actually buckles it. A 3/8in screw is going to buckle under a similar load to a 8mm screw. The only way to combat the problem be changing screws is to go with a larger diameter screw.
@@grahamshere I'm not sure how a bigger motor mount would help. I'd need to see your solution. As mentioned, cutting the c-beam is not necessary if you get longer screws. I was unwilling to wait for them and did not feel that shortening my c-beam by 1/2in impacted my travel enough to be a problem for me. I can still cut 48in of material, so a partial 4'X8' sheet is no problem.
I've contacted a seller and they've offered to give me an extra 10 mm added to the lead screw length. Do you think that will be enough to get the bearing and collar on the outside?Thanks for the video. It alleviates my worry about getting the bigger machine
Hey Seth. I do believe the 10mm will be enough. Can you share the seller you are working with for others. Thanks.
@@seanmartin8770 It's bulkman3d.
Can we use belt drives for this ?
anyone try to mount Cnc on the wall to make more room and box it in to keep the saw dust down in the shop >
The challenge with that approach is that the motors have to lift the weight of whatever axis is being moved against gravity. You would need bigger stepper motors and possibly drivers too. There may be additional wear on some components too.
can i know the price, and where you buy it? , thank you sir :D
Most suppliers of the workbee started offering a tensioning system shortly after I posted this video. check bulkman and oozenest.
would adding springs between the end grub and frame give you even more tension? www.mcmaster.com/9657k636 one of these springs on each end would give you an extra 20 lbs of tension. why didn't you just increase the threaded rod to 12mm?
Increasing the lead screw would be more desirable. I did not have a problem with loosing the 12mm in length so did that.
More tension is not necessary i dont believe.
Hey Sean, what city are you in. We have some work for small CNC workshops in and around various cities. Let me know if you are interested. Thx
I have 4 CNC routers in Watkins Colorado and one in Berthoud Colorado. Interest would depend on timing. Right now the 3 commercial machines are running our jobs 4 days a week 10hrs a day, but it's a seasonal thing. You can give me a call if you like.
@@seanmartin8770 that would be great. I will send you a direct message.
@@seanmartin8770 I can't send you a direct message on UA-cam for some reason. Can you do a zoom call sometime today or tomorrow?
@@brettsverkas8366 go to the donek snowboards web site and send me an e-mail or give me a call.
Fcrit = E I PI²/L²
Lol 8mm is identical to 5/16
Who the hell would use 8t trapezoid 2mm pitch power screws in a cnc table lol? Wow you got screwed literally if you paid for those. Those are designed to be used with 0 to 80rpm inmind to start with at a max length of 400mm. That is spec rated for those screws. Provided you have 304 stainless screws and 8070 copper nuts.
Anything above 80rpm will damaged those with a force greater then your wife bitch slapping you for wasting money on that. 1200mm 12mm ball screw with bearings and nut. 0 to 850rpm cost 55$ and won't bend anyhow cause of its twisted design even under loads. Not as much friction and does not turn to a sloppy mess. Acme screws are not even designed period to be used with any kind of stepper or motor.
NOT trying to be the black cloud here but worked the BRAND name Canada product would never used acme screws in a product. You got what you paid for a China knockoff
It's not the pressure... it's the vibrations of the motor going long the rod and multiplying in the middle