Your videos are so out of the 'norm'... they are unrefined and yet very well put together at the same time, I absolutely love them. Great work and keep them coming.
As a CNC machinist for over 35 years i cringed so many times in this but i love your positive attitude. A couple of tips for you if i may. When milling the blade at the end, if you had made sure you had climb milled, you'd have pushed the burr to the inside of the face rather than over the side. Trochoidal milling was definitely the right method for the pocket, but I'd suggest the cutter runs at around 120-150 m/min surface speed in steel and keep the stepover to under 10% of cutter diameter. Oh and buy a center drill for spotting the holes - those chamfer / deburring tools dont last long when you try drilling blind ! PS just sitting here suffering from covid myself for the first time - IT SUCKS !!
I LOVE your never-say-die approach to everything! Your solutions are sometimes "outside the box", and often rather exciting. You may be learning as you go, but we are all learning heaps with you. Condolences to Sam; so many sad stories result from Covid.
what a beautiful memorial stone. & I'm sure you can take the fact it was done by you in person to heart. It was made out of the love you both had for your father.
I absolutely love your JFDI approach and the solid belief that you can do anything that you set your mind to and if it goes wrong, then it's a lesson learned. Cool.
You are brave with what you are trying on your CNC. And after all that investment of time and jiggery pokery, you'd have to be delighted with that excellent result. Thanks for the video. Cheers, David
I told you this thing was gonna be a monster. I just knew it. You did not disappoint. Gives me hope for my own epoxy-granite build currently in progress. Keep it up.
Worked as a Tool and Die Maker for around 20 years. I really enjoyed machine work. Wished I had a small CNC in my garage. Grinding them magnetic chucks can be tricky because you need to choose the right grinding wheel that is porous enough not to load up and soft enough to break down.
@@GrayRaceCat Looks like the sharpening shop attempted to use a dull beaver to sharpen it. Probably why you should take your planar blades to an actual machine shop or proper sharpening shop, not some yahoo in his garage with an angle grinder
Maybe in one coming soon. Ironically after sharpening the very next project was flattening a slab, slightly wider than the 400mm thicknesser - so it went on the CNC :)
You made me wince, watching you run your bare fingers back and forth over the freshly cut steel. I was always digging metal splinters out of my fingers after doing that sort of thing!
Starting from one side and making a VERY small stepover (measured in thousanths) will mean the cup wheel will only cut on the corner instead of the face.... very slow but major reduction in spindle loading... The "welding" in the bottom of the vee groove may be from re-cut where the swarf hasn't been removed and runs through the cutter over &over... 🤔 😎👍☘️🍺
Seasons greetings Friend! Thank you so much for watching! Peace and love be with you :) If you haven't seen the CNC video that goes with this one, then see it@ ua-cam.com/video/zTQJpwYjUeg/v-deo.html
surprisingly interesting how each video is some story/trip :) .. I rewatched some of the old ones and still found them interesting, how insane and chaotic it all is, but somehow incredibly meticulous
@@FloweringElbow I don't know i guess it seemed to flow well so nice editing, saw a few different projects, saw lots of good CNC action after watching you build it for so long.
I like the general flow of trying to a thing (planer blade) and then seeing all the side quests that you go on (dust collector, mag chuck, work holding jigs etc.) it's pretty cool!
Really hope Sam is doing good man.. That's very sad to hear that her Dad passed away in Hospital during Covid bcos I know ppl weren't allowed to see their loved ones during that time.. My kindest regards to Sam my friend.. I love the videos mate. They show me what can be achieved with a little grunt and a lotta thought.. Fair play to ya mate.. U have built a fine CNC mahine there snd I hope it makes u a tonne of cash oin the now and future bro.. Salute from Ireland..
I recommend you try adding an angle to the spindle so only one point of the grinding wheel contacts the surface. Cut up and down the chuck with a very small step-over in the cross-feeding axis added every other pass.
I'm a guy who has all the electronics skills but none of the ones for machining. I do get the kick from watching others do the machining though. Good job.
Check out Ron Covell's video on rollation mate, he shows an easy way to make squares and rectangles into circles. Another Thanks for another awesome video man and I'm sorry for you and your girl's loss.
If you are not exploring the boundaries of your machinery and your skills, you're not learning much either. Another great episode. I built a massive flycutter for my Bridgeport. It uses carbide inserts and if you crank the feed rate down pretty far, it can very nearly produce a mirror finish. After that step, it's not too bad to touch up the edges and surfaces by hand since the proper geometry has already been achieved.
this is a diamond grinding disc. it's made for grinding carbide tools and hardened tool steel. any material softer than that will clog and damage this wheel. you need a conventional oxide wheel for your task (that stone ones from a bench grinder). but it can shatter. the better way to do such a crazy job is to mount an angle grinder to the Z axis.
We had a cnc router at the place I used to work at. We had a vacuum extraction system clamped to the cutter head. Several times it went on fire. First time was worst, took out one of the big bags and required a fire extinguisher to put out. Not a great hazard in a concrete building but... After that the operator was a bit more careful. We still had problems with it though.
Hi! its hard to believe that's actually stone, looks like plastic on video lol "This Old Tony" has a great video on CNC Checkering.. IMHO fiddling with software surface mapping is easier* and more flexible with the materials you can use ; Granted you pay the upfront cost of a DRO. I love the work you've done so far! Best of luck with future projects!
Good morning azzoubk6777, thanks for getting in touch. I know what you mean about the slate - it was very smooooth. Yeah, I think I have seen the video you mean - I'll be setting up a probe etc at some point and yeah it would have worked with the stone well (rather than all the re-zeroing I did), But I wouldn't want to be testing out the system on that stone, so many things that could go wrong already... Thanks again, Bongo.
Your videos are always sure to please ! Well done with what you have learned . I was aching to lend you my planer blade grinder ..... but distance .......we have pretty much similar thicknessers. There are carbide edged blades available which last a lot lot longer and can also be sharpened the way you did the HSS blades . Good luck - thanks for the videos !
Fantastic video and really positive view on life! Just one thing I can maybe add: For the Acrylic or Polycarb you used for your dust extraction, get some Dichloromethane or Methylene Chloride and a squeeze bottle with a flexible, extremely small diameter spout. The solvent "melts" the Acrylic together and then it flashes off and the Acrylic resets, You hold it or clamp it in place for 5 minutes and it is almost perfect. Stronger than super glue and watertight as well.
Awesome projects! Am I right in thinking that the grinding cup makes the surface flat because it's only cutting on the rim? Theoretically, you should be able to use a smaller diameter and still get a good surface flatness, and then there's less torque on your spindle and it might not stall?
Hey Leo, you are spot on correct! A smaller wheel, as well as requiring less torque, would have a correct surface speed at a higher RPM (closer to the spindles torque zone). I originally thought I'd be (mis)using this wheel on my mini mill (full speed 1500rpm)... Thanks for watching and commenting friend :)
@@FloweringElbow hi Bongo! Before you try this again, find and watch Joe Pie's video on using a mill as a grinder if you haven't seen it yet. He did more or less the same thing using a smaller white cup wheel, and he explained a lot of the theory and how to ensure it works well for you. I think Joe covered it as well, but you'll also absolutely need a diamond single point dressing tool for a ceramic based grinding wheel. I'm pretty sure Joe also put a bevel onto the cup wheel, leaving the perimeter as the edge that made contact with the workpiece. It's been awhile since I've watched the video so I apologize if my answers weren't more helpful. Also take a look at Blondihacks, I think she might have done the same trick. Great video, and truly well executed with a bunch of persistent hard work. Keep it up!
Love the vid's. It's good to see the 'how not to' along with the success's. I Built my 600 x 900 CNC about 5 years ago with help from a local chap (In his '80's..) and generally annoyed him by just taking his 'principals' and building the frame with my own idea's.. oops. Truth was I didn't like all the problems that welding caused.. (and I couldn't weld anyway..) As a retired carpenter I have lots of woodworking tools and machines.. but also had experience with working 'Resin' boards of various kinds.. Trespa.. Meg.. Compact.. (Thick HPL..) and has proved invaluable over the years for jig making and in this case (CNC..) the framework and platten and for the bearings to run on. I would certainly recommend Trespa as an alternative to many metals as it machines very smoothly, has the density and appearance of Slate and is very stable. Like wood, it is layered so screwing into the side may split the board but can be thread 'Tapped' very successfully. It can occasionally be found on ebay in 6 -12mm thick sheets or go and raid some public toilets where it is used as doors and walls.. (Not advocating this of course..).. Good luck on your adventures.
Great video as usual! Love seeing the process including the problems you had, that's real life. The original sharpening on that blade was terrible, did they use a handheld grinder?!
There is Lead surrounding those segments which will gum up you diamond disc , they want scraping out just below the surface which will let air/coolant get into it and should give better result. I used to have to scrape them out as an apprentice.
I really enjoy your videos. I find them very relatable as I have recently built a cnc router and am using it to mill steel. I’m also learning Fusion360 and metal casting. Great work! Keep it up.
How can this dude hold such a positive frame after all these little inconveniences? When my machine chips 1mm of wood out of a workpiece I feel like giving up on life all together.
Watching that bit on the Slate house name engraving, can I suggest you use a probe to probe the surface in a grid and build a surface map (heatmap). This gets subtracted from your actual cut so that the engraving bit is always the right height over the surface. I used this last weekend basing the idea on people who use this to get super accurate PCB engraving. It worked a charm. I used bCNC to run my cnc, but I am sure this musht be workable with other controllers.
The goo in the hole is probably old coolant. Those mag chucks are almost always used with flooded coolant that gets everywhere and then it can dry up leaving an oily sludge. Mixed with a bit of grinding dust probably looks like the contents of that hole.
I really like your videos. Some quick points. Sparking carbide is not long for this world. Watch your chips , blue or violet will keep your carbide happy. Black chips will drastically limit the life of carbide. If your cutter breaks it’s generally to fast of feed rate. If the cutter is burnt it’s to many rpms. Excellent videos. I appreciate your tenacity.
a grinder on a precision slide with a reciprocator is how you grind and polish surfaces. you could have put your grinder in a router table and push the clamped planer blade and jigss over the spinning honing stone flush with the table. good luck.
Its an impressive machine, huge volume. I would see about a steel or aluminium clamping bed. Maybe T slots or smooth holes & threaded holes. Maybe a partial vacuum chuck. There's a lot of options you could borrow from milling machines / machinist's.
Hey Deepwinter, thanks for watching. Agreed, I think it would be very worth it to upgrade the bed. I'm kinda hoping to find some old cast iron mill table or something - to replace a section of the spoil board, that I could then use for metal machining. Peace, Bongo.
Just a heads up on abrasive grinders, you do need to set up a diamond dresser to cut it after a few passes as it’ll make it cut like it was supposed to and not smear/burn on the final cut especially. Along with only .0005” max cut depth is a good idea when you get close to full contact.
to correctly collect the chips you need to use some linear brushes like the ones you used to cover the ballscrews on the edges of the vacuum shoe, also that need to be at a fixed height by clamping it on the carriage of the X axis, not on the Z axis. very good video and impressive machine !
Your machine is awesome, very nice and very respectful doing the headstone yourself. I like all your engineering prowess. You may find that your cornering speeds need to reduce to save your bits from snapping, that's if it only happens around corners, although a 20% feed speed reduction bay serve you well. Very nice work throughout and honesty with the grinding, definitely worth a try though 👍
If you're needing to sharpen the planer blades again, you can make magnetic 'transfer' angle blocks that will conduct the flux up to the blade and hold it properly, instead of shorting it out (just holding down the blocks). They are made with stacks of brass/aluminum and steel in a similar manner to the surface of the magnet chuck. The CNC machine could cut out the profiles and pin holes from sheet stock. (Don't pin them with steel). The downside is that you would need several blocks as the blade is pretty thin. Another option is mounting the magnetic chuck at an angle like you did in the beginning. Then placing a small brass/aluminum shim under the blade. This should give you just a tiny bit of clearance from the surface of the chuck to grind to the edge. The blade would be held down with a strip of steal, the entire length of the blade, with a rabbet cut down the length so it touches the chuck and the top of the blade.
Hi I think your videos are fab ! I actually did exactly this 2 weeks ago but on my bridge port with a smaller 75mm diamond cup workout really well but the main issue was keeping everything cool id love to send you a video clip 👍👍
I would really suggest getting yourself a scissor lift trolley. Seriously. Save your back. Get a heavy duty one that can do 400kg, and you'll be laughing. Just pump it up to line it up with anything, and you just slide the workpiece off.
The grind always need a section sticking in the air. Otherwise the chips can't escape and will embed in the grind disk, and you end up with them rubbing on the piece you want to grind. BTW, I love the great atmosphere of your videos and the can-do attitude :)
The issue at the bottom of the vee is that the tool at that point has close to zero rotary speed so rubs instead of cutting. You should have cut, for example, a Ø3 wide slot x 2mm deep at the bottom before doing the 45° sides. This is the sort of profile most vee blocks have as it is usually unnecessary to create a really sharp internal 90° corner.
I just stumbled across your channel... keep up your great work! i really enjoy watching your videos:) i admire your broad skill! Just a small input... maybe look into FDM 3D printing ;) especially for such freeform geometry's like dust shoots etc. I thing you could use this really well! best wishes from Austria! :)
I wasnt expecting Much at the begining of the builds but lots of work and thought put into That build! Nice result and cant Wait to Sée whats coming and props for your gf to help you out in your project
Not sure if your cnc controller supports it, but may be helpful to look into using a probe to take several points over the entire un level work surface to create a mesh of the surface and then the cnc controller can automatically raise and lower the spindle in real time to account for the unevenness. This is used in 3d printers all the time
Good evening Win7rulz. I was using Mach3 and it couldn't easily do it, but... Have just been offered a mach4 licence, so may well be trying this in the future. Thanks for watching :D
Hooray, more CNC goodness. BUT, how does Sam feel about you shaving off all of your body hair and auditioning for a role in the remake of The Kinks "Lola"? :-D
Fantastic video and amazing to see what can be done on a cnc. Your so inventive. That’s horrendous the state they returned your planer knifes to you in. I recognise the slate yard. Are you close to Aberllefenni?
first of your videos ive been shown for whatever reason youtube i guess, glad im here now. like the way you do your vids, very comfortable to watch, like the way you work. ill be going back watch some of your other content. I think your doing an awesome job.. + real nice cnc btw, what programs do you use? Mach 3, V Carve pro?
Good evening Peewee G, thanks friend, appreciate that. ATM I'm using Mach3 and Fusion360. Everyone tells me Mach 3 is terrible, though I have no experience for comparison... I have been given a Mach4 licence, so may try changing over to that, but am not looking forward to the inevitable setup jiggery... Thanks again :)
What increment is the Z axis capable of moving? A .001 depth of cut would be huge for that CBN wheel. When I was running CNCs the cut you were taking with the chamfer cutter I might have tried but only with high pressure coolant thru the spindle even with carbide.
Sounds like we had similar months. I built a big (2m x, 3m y, and 1m z)axis CNC out of blood, sweat and metal. I had one last issue I had to resolve where the z-axis was going out of allignment due to the fact that it was temporarily driven by a 3d printed pulley which caused the belt to slip occasionally. It needed to be replaced by an alluminum pulley. Problem was the hole on the metal pulley was too small for my ballscrew. I therefore built the most terrifyingly overpowered lathe attachment for my cnc for the single purpose of making one hole bigger on a pulley. Lathe attachment worked though and has not killed me yet. z-axis is no longer losing allignment after replacing the pulley. No I can start production with my CNC. Now time for step 2. Step 1: Build giant CNC. Step 2: ? Step 3: Profit!
Hey there friend, thanks for watching. 20mm would add up to a lot of epoxy 😲. Were you thinking epoxy granite or just straight? I dont recon it would add much stiffness to the bed, which is also something we're after - the mdf deflection under load is a weak point atm. I like the idea of sealing the mdf for stability, though....
Hey daxliniere, thanks for watching. Yes! Really I want to replace at least a section of it... looking out for an old mill table or something like that that I could use. The rigidity of the mdf base is the weakest part of the machine atm. Peace, Bongo.
That mag chuck has probably spent its previous life on a wet surface grinder. The worktank fills with weird grey weakly magentic slime instead of dust being emitted and it gets everywhere, so its not surprising some made its way into the insides of the mag chuck. They can become demag'd too, I have a weak one on my SG that you have to be careful about how you block in things or they end up stuck in the wall behind the machine as it fires them off the chuck. Maybe I should strip it and see if its full of funk inside too. The tapped unpopulated holes should have another end fence with oval holes bolted via them, so you can raise the fence slightly above the chuck plane surface to act as a fence to setup from, and to help stop firing things off the end. Its easy to screw up using a mag chuck, he says remembering the time he put a tall block on and started grinding, only for it to tip because it wasn't blocked in vertically enough, and when it tips it becomes longer and doesnt fit between the chuck and wheel which pulls it in anyway. Causing your grinding wheel to explode, and sending abrasive projectiles round the shop (I have a heavy wheel guard fortunately) and necessitating a change of under clothing...
The heat expands the material, the contact surface increases, creating more heat.. Solution: measure the resistance, pull away for cool down.. Regarding the suction, you could do the Operating Theater Airflow thing, were you create over-pressure in the shed, which the dyson sucks towards the outside. Needs a sealed work environment though. Also shouldn't the blade get a heat surface treatment?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
It's like ThisOldTony's kid grew up and found himself some shop space. Love it! Thanks for putting this together for everyone to enjoy.
lol. Appreciate the encouragement :)
Yeah except we can see his face. 😁
@@court2379 maybe it's him but we don't know!
Your videos are so out of the 'norm'... they are unrefined and yet very well put together at the same time, I absolutely love them. Great work and keep them coming.
Yay, thank you!
Feels like old internet, it's great.
As a CNC machinist for over 35 years i cringed so many times in this but i love your positive attitude.
A couple of tips for you if i may.
When milling the blade at the end, if you had made sure you had climb milled, you'd have pushed the burr to the inside of the face rather than over the side.
Trochoidal milling was definitely the right method for the pocket, but I'd suggest the cutter runs at around 120-150 m/min surface speed in steel and keep the stepover to under 10% of cutter diameter.
Oh and buy a center drill for spotting the holes - those chamfer / deburring tools dont last long when you try drilling blind !
PS just sitting here suffering from covid myself for the first time - IT SUCKS !!
An epic tale with a splendid result at the end! Great video, thank you.
Many thanks maximus iron thumper! Love your vids BTW ;)
Thank you, this video makes me want to go back to my workshop. Well done👍and keep it up👊
You my friend are nothing short of "SENSATIONAL".....................Cheers from a like-minded "Badger" from OZ ♥
I LOVE your never-say-die approach to everything! Your solutions are sometimes "outside the box", and often rather exciting. You may be learning as you go, but we are all learning heaps with you.
Condolences to Sam; so many sad stories result from Covid.
You have a way with words ,sir.... 🙄
RIP Mr. Turton... 😞
what a beautiful memorial stone. & I'm sure you can take the fact it was done by you in person to heart. It was made out of the love you both had for your father.
The reason for the slate work aside, this was a delightful video! Season’s Yeetings to you & Sam!
I absolutely love your JFDI approach and the solid belief that you can do anything that you set your mind to and if it goes wrong, then it's a lesson learned.
Cool.
You are brave with what you are trying on your CNC. And after all that investment of time and jiggery pokery, you'd have to be delighted with that excellent result. Thanks for the video. Cheers, David
RIP to your friend. It was a wonderful Stone. Happy holidays. I really enjoyed the video.
Oh, the myriad problems of making stuff work! I love it, please keep it up! Thank you.
Definitely some shaving-the-yak action here... but still very cool!
I told you this thing was gonna be a monster. I just knew it. You did not disappoint. Gives me hope for my own epoxy-granite build currently in progress. Keep it up.
Oscar-winning stuff and a great ending giggle of hair-raising precision, thanks for a brilliant 28 minutes :)
Worked as a Tool and Die Maker for around 20 years. I really enjoyed machine work. Wished I had a small CNC in my garage. Grinding them magnetic chucks can be tricky because you need to choose the right grinding wheel that is porous enough not to load up and soft enough to break down.
Sorry to hear about your loss. Peace be with you Flowering Elbow.
loving your vids! I got myself a CNC mill and ended up finding myself on this side of UA-cam and been binging your vids since lol.
Always great to hear my friend :D Hope you get something useful out of them ;)
@@FloweringElbow thank you I know i will, whether it be useful parts or just having fun messing around with it.
Thoroughly enjoyed the rewatch. Impressive sharpening job in the end. Quite the journey to get there!
That end result must have been so worth it!....Execution was sub par but those results!.....Well done!👍👍 Two thumbs up!
It might have taken a long time, with many side projects. But would you look at how ridiculously sharp that blade is? Brilliant result
'Ridiculous' - nicely captures the whole business ;D
@@FloweringElbow Yup! One down, two to go! Did the "sharpening" shop sharpen the blades free-hand?
@@GrayRaceCat one can only guess!
@@GrayRaceCat Looks like the sharpening shop attempted to use a dull beaver to sharpen it. Probably why you should take your planar blades to an actual machine shop or proper sharpening shop, not some yahoo in his garage with an angle grinder
Now we want to see the planer after the sharpening.
Maybe in one coming soon. Ironically after sharpening the very next project was flattening a slab, slightly wider than the 400mm thicknesser - so it went on the CNC :)
Really glad I found this channel. It itches my need to see things being built/ worked on.
some things about grinding, slower feeds and dressing the diamond wheel will work wonders on what you can grind
I watched the build of the cnc so this is great seeing big progress.
Your projects are plain incredible. I love these videos!
You made me wince, watching you run your bare fingers back and forth over the freshly cut steel. I was always digging metal splinters out of my fingers after doing that sort of thing!
Starting from one side and making a VERY small stepover (measured in thousanths) will mean the cup wheel will only cut on the corner instead of the face.... very slow but major reduction in spindle loading...
The "welding" in the bottom of the vee groove may be from re-cut where the swarf hasn't been removed and runs through the cutter over &over... 🤔
😎👍☘️🍺
Seasons greetings Friend! Thank you so much for watching! Peace and love be with you :) If you haven't seen the CNC video that goes with this one, then see it@ ua-cam.com/video/zTQJpwYjUeg/v-deo.html
Love you Bud!
surprisingly interesting how each video is some story/trip :) .. I rewatched some of the old ones and still found them interesting, how insane and chaotic it all is, but somehow incredibly meticulous
Gravestone looks amazing mate. Love the knife sharpening success-bungle.
This is my favourite video of yours yet!
Wow - Really appreciate that friend. Care to say what exactly you like, so maybe I improve the next ones?
@@FloweringElbow I don't know i guess it seemed to flow well so nice editing, saw a few different projects, saw lots of good CNC action after watching you build it for so long.
I like the general flow of trying to a thing (planer blade) and then seeing all the side quests that you go on (dust collector, mag chuck, work holding jigs etc.) it's pretty cool!
Really hope Sam is doing good man.. That's very sad to hear that her Dad passed away in Hospital during Covid bcos I know ppl weren't allowed to see their loved ones during that time.. My kindest regards to Sam my friend.. I love the videos mate. They show me what can be achieved with a little grunt and a lotta thought.. Fair play to ya mate.. U have built a fine CNC mahine there snd I hope it makes u a tonne of cash oin the now and future bro.. Salute from Ireland..
Wow, i'm very impressed of your cnc as well as of the sharpening result!!!
I recommend you try adding an angle to the spindle so only one point of the grinding wheel contacts the surface. Cut up and down the chuck with a very small step-over in the cross-feeding axis added every other pass.
That was exciting to watch.
Your videos are good teaching moments, keep up they great work!
Brilliant! So enjoyed watching you go through all this. Well done.
Impressive results in the end 😀
Admirable tenacity!
I'm a guy who has all the electronics skills but none of the ones for machining. I do get the kick from watching others do the machining though. Good job.
Wow amazing effort and fantastic results. Your persistence is astonishing. Hats off to you Sir.
Check out Ron Covell's video on rollation mate, he shows an easy way to make squares and rectangles into circles. Another Thanks for another awesome video man and I'm sorry for you and your girl's loss.
If you are not exploring the boundaries of your machinery and your skills, you're not learning much either. Another great episode. I built a massive flycutter for my Bridgeport. It uses carbide inserts and if you crank the feed rate down pretty far, it can very nearly produce a mirror finish. After that step, it's not too bad to touch up the edges and surfaces by hand since the proper geometry has already been achieved.
this is a diamond grinding disc. it's made for grinding carbide tools and hardened tool steel. any material softer than that will clog and damage this wheel.
you need a conventional oxide wheel for your task (that stone ones from a bench grinder). but it can shatter.
the better way to do such a crazy job is to mount an angle grinder to the Z axis.
We had a cnc router at the place I used to work at.
We had a vacuum extraction system clamped to the cutter head.
Several times it went on fire. First time was worst, took out one of the big bags and required a fire extinguisher to put out. Not a great hazard in a concrete building but...
After that the operator was a bit more careful. We still had problems with it though.
you make that look way too easy. hats off to you friend.
Hi! its hard to believe that's actually stone, looks like plastic on video lol
"This Old Tony" has a great video on CNC Checkering.. IMHO fiddling with software surface mapping is easier* and more flexible with the materials you can use ; Granted you pay the upfront cost of a DRO.
I love the work you've done so far! Best of luck with future projects!
Good morning azzoubk6777, thanks for getting in touch. I know what you mean about the slate - it was very smooooth. Yeah, I think I have seen the video you mean - I'll be setting up a probe etc at some point and yeah it would have worked with the stone well (rather than all the re-zeroing I did), But I wouldn't want to be testing out the system on that stone, so many things that could go wrong already... Thanks again, Bongo.
@@FloweringElbow Bongo.. Ha! cool name..
Mine is Toast...
That was really interesting.....from someone who had little idea what was happening. Merry Christmas.
Your videos are always sure to please ! Well done with what you have learned . I was aching to lend you my planer blade grinder ..... but distance .......we have pretty much similar thicknessers. There are carbide edged blades available which last a lot lot longer and can also be sharpened the way you did the HSS blades . Good luck - thanks for the videos !
Fantastic video and really positive view on life! Just one thing I can maybe add: For the Acrylic or Polycarb you used for your dust extraction, get some Dichloromethane or Methylene Chloride and a squeeze bottle with a flexible, extremely small diameter spout. The solvent "melts" the Acrylic together and then it flashes off and the Acrylic resets, You hold it or clamp it in place for 5 minutes and it is almost perfect. Stronger than super glue and watertight as well.
Great advice 👍
Awesome projects! Am I right in thinking that the grinding cup makes the surface flat because it's only cutting on the rim? Theoretically, you should be able to use a smaller diameter and still get a good surface flatness, and then there's less torque on your spindle and it might not stall?
Hey Leo, you are spot on correct! A smaller wheel, as well as requiring less torque, would have a correct surface speed at a higher RPM (closer to the spindles torque zone). I originally thought I'd be (mis)using this wheel on my mini mill (full speed 1500rpm)... Thanks for watching and commenting friend :)
@@FloweringElbow hi Bongo! Before you try this again, find and watch Joe Pie's video on using a mill as a grinder if you haven't seen it yet. He did more or less the same thing using a smaller white cup wheel, and he explained a lot of the theory and how to ensure it works well for you. I think Joe covered it as well, but you'll also absolutely need a diamond single point dressing tool for a ceramic based grinding wheel. I'm pretty sure Joe also put a bevel onto the cup wheel, leaving the perimeter as the edge that made contact with the workpiece.
It's been awhile since I've watched the video so I apologize if my answers weren't more helpful. Also take a look at Blondihacks, I think she might have done the same trick.
Great video, and truly well executed with a bunch of persistent hard work. Keep it up!
@@ChristopherGoggans Thanks Christopher, I appreciate that :D
Love the vid's. It's good to see the 'how not to' along with the success's.
I Built my 600 x 900 CNC about 5 years ago with help from a local chap (In his '80's..) and generally annoyed him by just taking his 'principals' and building the frame with my own idea's.. oops. Truth was I didn't like all the problems that welding caused.. (and I couldn't weld anyway..)
As a retired carpenter I have lots of woodworking tools and machines.. but also had experience with working 'Resin' boards of various kinds.. Trespa.. Meg.. Compact.. (Thick HPL..) and has proved invaluable over the years for jig making and in this case (CNC..) the framework and platten and for the bearings to run on. I would certainly recommend Trespa as an alternative to many metals as it machines very smoothly, has the density and appearance of Slate and is very stable. Like wood, it is layered so screwing into the side may split the board but can be thread 'Tapped' very successfully. It can occasionally be found on ebay in 6 -12mm thick sheets or go and raid some public toilets where it is used as doors and walls.. (Not advocating this of course..)..
Good luck on your adventures.
Awesome experimentation and learning. End result is amazing. Well done.
Haha, love this project and the ideas and jigs needed to complete a nice final product. Also the cutting of stone with a cnc was fascinating.
Thanks again my Orange Baron, appreciate the encouragement :D
Great video as usual! Love seeing the process including the problems you had, that's real life. The original sharpening on that blade was terrible, did they use a handheld grinder?!
There is Lead surrounding those segments which will gum up you diamond disc , they want scraping out just below the surface which will let air/coolant get into it and should give better result.
I used to have to scrape them out as an apprentice.
Wooow. Mind blown - I think this would have been the saving grace of this adventure... Had I but the wit to know...
I loved every second of that...
Boy can those spindles take some punishment!!! :)
So interesting, stone cnc, one of the things i've not thought about.
I really enjoy your videos. I find them very relatable as I have recently built a cnc router and am using it to mill steel. I’m also learning Fusion360 and metal casting. Great work! Keep it up.
Appreciate that friend :D
How can this dude hold such a positive frame after all these little inconveniences? When my machine chips 1mm of wood out of a workpiece I feel like giving up on life all together.
Wonderful video and projects. Thank you for never giving up!
Watching that bit on the Slate house name engraving, can I suggest you use a probe to probe the surface in a grid and build a surface map (heatmap). This gets subtracted from your actual cut so that the engraving bit is always the right height over the surface. I used this last weekend basing the idea on people who use this to get super accurate PCB engraving. It worked a charm.
I used bCNC to run my cnc, but I am sure this musht be workable with other controllers.
Idea: mount the mag chuck perpendicular to the table and cut with the circumference of the grinding wheel
The goo in the hole is probably old coolant. Those mag chucks are almost always used with flooded coolant that gets everywhere and then it can dry up leaving an oily sludge. Mixed with a bit of grinding dust probably looks like the contents of that hole.
Sounds very plausible - mystery solved :)
@@FloweringElbow It's usually rancid, give it a sniff, then you will really know 😉🤢
Sometimes if you do everything a little bit wrong, everything turns out fine. We call this luck and perseverance. 😅Keep up the good work and be safe.
I really like your videos. Some quick points. Sparking carbide is not long for this world. Watch your chips , blue or violet will keep your carbide happy. Black chips will drastically limit the life of carbide. If your cutter breaks it’s generally to fast of feed rate. If the cutter is burnt it’s to many rpms. Excellent videos. I appreciate your tenacity.
Ah. a chip-reader - thanks for sharing your knowledge!
a grinder on a precision slide with a reciprocator is how you grind and polish surfaces. you could have put your grinder in a router table and push the clamped planer blade and jigss over the spinning honing stone flush with the table. good luck.
@Private Private : Boring...! If he had done that, we would have been denied this fantastic video! 😉
Its an impressive machine, huge volume.
I would see about a steel or aluminium clamping bed.
Maybe T slots or smooth holes & threaded holes.
Maybe a partial vacuum chuck.
There's a lot of options you could borrow from milling machines / machinist's.
Hey Deepwinter, thanks for watching. Agreed, I think it would be very worth it to upgrade the bed. I'm kinda hoping to find some old cast iron mill table or something - to replace a section of the spoil board, that I could then use for metal machining. Peace, Bongo.
@Deepwinter : Keep watching... I have a strong feeling "We ain't seen nuthin' yet"!
Very informative & interesting. Thanks for showing the trials & errors to achieve the ultimate success. Job well done!
Sharpening guys must have been a lawnmower shop.
Just a heads up on abrasive grinders, you do need to set up a diamond dresser to cut it after a few passes as it’ll make it cut like it was supposed to and not smear/burn on the final cut especially. Along with only .0005” max cut depth is a good idea when you get close to full contact.
Thanks for the advice shadowcards!
Fantastic! Great project and practical use of your CNC 🎉
Thank you very much! :D
to correctly collect the chips you need to use some linear brushes like the ones you used to cover the ballscrews on the edges of the vacuum shoe, also that need to be at a fixed height by clamping it on the carriage of the X axis, not on the Z axis. very good video and impressive machine !
The scallops in the cut at 20:00 tells me that your spindle is not perpendicular to the workpiece or am I reading that wrong?
Your machine is awesome, very nice and very respectful doing the headstone yourself. I like all your engineering prowess. You may find that your cornering speeds need to reduce to save your bits from snapping, that's if it only happens around corners, although a 20% feed speed reduction bay serve you well. Very nice work throughout and honesty with the grinding, definitely worth a try though 👍
If you're needing to sharpen the planer blades again, you can make magnetic 'transfer' angle blocks that will conduct the flux up to the blade and hold it properly, instead of shorting it out (just holding down the blocks). They are made with stacks of brass/aluminum and steel in a similar manner to the surface of the magnet chuck. The CNC machine could cut out the profiles and pin holes from sheet stock. (Don't pin them with steel). The downside is that you would need several blocks as the blade is pretty thin.
Another option is mounting the magnetic chuck at an angle like you did in the beginning. Then placing a small brass/aluminum shim under the blade. This should give you just a tiny bit of clearance from the surface of the chuck to grind to the edge. The blade would be held down with a strip of steal, the entire length of the blade, with a rabbet cut down the length so it touches the chuck and the top of the blade.
Hi I think your videos are fab ! I actually did exactly this 2 weeks ago but on my bridge port with a smaller 75mm diamond cup workout really well but the main issue was keeping everything cool id love to send you a video clip 👍👍
I would really suggest getting yourself a scissor lift trolley. Seriously. Save your back. Get a heavy duty one that can do 400kg, and you'll be laughing. Just pump it up to line it up with anything, and you just slide the workpiece off.
The grind always need a section sticking in the air. Otherwise the chips can't escape and will embed in the grind disk, and you end up with them rubbing on the piece you want to grind.
BTW, I love the great atmosphere of your videos and the can-do attitude :)
Good evening MaX271, that's a great point, thanks for watching friend.
The issue at the bottom of the vee is that the tool at that point has close to zero rotary speed so rubs instead of cutting. You should have cut, for example, a Ø3 wide slot x 2mm deep at the bottom before doing the 45° sides. This is the sort of profile most vee blocks have as it is usually unnecessary to create a really sharp internal 90° corner.
I just stumbled across your channel... keep up your great work! i really enjoy watching your videos:) i admire your broad skill!
Just a small input... maybe look into FDM 3D printing ;) especially for such freeform geometry's like dust shoots etc. I thing you could use this really well! best wishes from Austria! :)
I wasnt expecting Much at the begining of the builds but lots of work and thought put into That build! Nice result and cant Wait to Sée whats coming and props for your gf to help you out in your project
Thanks Dave :D
"And there you go!" Subscribed.
Not sure if your cnc controller supports it, but may be helpful to look into using a probe to take several points over the entire un level work surface to create a mesh of the surface and then the cnc controller can automatically raise and lower the spindle in real time to account for the unevenness. This is used in 3d printers all the time
Good evening Win7rulz. I was using Mach3 and it couldn't easily do it, but...
Have just been offered a mach4 licence, so may well be trying this in the future. Thanks for watching :D
@@FloweringElbow LinuxCNC has a component for that made by Scott 3D
ua-cam.com/video/3BpqfBpozeM/v-deo.html
Hooray, more CNC goodness. BUT, how does Sam feel about you shaving off all of your body hair and auditioning for a role in the remake of The Kinks "Lola"? :-D
HAHAHA. I'll have to ask.
Those first steel recipes looked quite good. High feed mills might be worth some investigation seeing you have a relatively high speed spindle.
Fantastic video and amazing to see what can be done on a cnc. Your so inventive. That’s horrendous the state they returned your planer knifes to you in. I recognise the slate yard. Are you close to Aberllefenni?
Well spotted. That is the slate yard, bit further north than our usual haunts.
first of your videos ive been shown for whatever reason youtube i guess, glad im here now. like the way you do your vids, very comfortable to watch, like the way you work. ill be going back watch some of your other content. I think your doing an awesome job.. + real nice cnc btw, what programs do you use? Mach 3, V Carve pro?
Good evening Peewee G, thanks friend, appreciate that. ATM I'm using Mach3 and Fusion360. Everyone tells me Mach 3 is terrible, though I have no experience for comparison... I have been given a Mach4 licence, so may try changing over to that, but am not looking forward to the inevitable setup jiggery... Thanks again :)
you need a smaller diameter grinding disk the one you used was huge for that spindle
What increment is the Z axis capable of moving? A .001 depth of cut would be huge for that CBN wheel. When I was running CNCs the cut you were taking with the chamfer cutter I might have tried but only with high pressure coolant thru the spindle even with carbide.
Sounds like we had similar months. I built a big (2m x, 3m y, and 1m z)axis CNC out of blood, sweat and metal. I had one last issue I had to resolve where the z-axis was going out of allignment due to the fact that it was temporarily driven by a 3d printed pulley which caused the belt to slip occasionally. It needed to be replaced by an alluminum pulley. Problem was the hole on the metal pulley was too small for my ballscrew. I therefore built the most terrifyingly overpowered lathe attachment for my cnc for the single purpose of making one hole bigger on a pulley. Lathe attachment worked though and has not killed me yet. z-axis is no longer losing allignment after replacing the pulley. No I can start production with my CNC. Now time for step 2. Step 1: Build giant CNC. Step 2: ? Step 3: Profit!
Seal the MDF with epoxy and pour a 20 mm layer on top, stays leveled and only needs to be resurfaced when the bit ruins the surface.
and its waterproof.
Hey there friend, thanks for watching. 20mm would add up to a lot of epoxy 😲. Were you thinking epoxy granite or just straight? I dont recon it would add much stiffness to the bed, which is also something we're after - the mdf deflection under load is a weak point atm.
I like the idea of sealing the mdf for stability, though....
the best sensor to add is a sensor that can see if the dust collector has catched fire.
Fantastic finish on the planer blade. Have you thought much about changing your MDF bed for something waterproof?
Hey daxliniere, thanks for watching. Yes! Really I want to replace at least a section of it... looking out for an old mill table or something like that that I could use. The rigidity of the mdf base is the weakest part of the machine atm. Peace, Bongo.
@@FloweringElbow Haaaaave you considered a granite slab?
Condolensces to you and sam
That mag chuck has probably spent its previous life on a wet surface grinder. The worktank fills with weird grey weakly magentic slime instead of dust being emitted and it gets everywhere, so its not surprising some made its way into the insides of the mag chuck. They can become demag'd too, I have a weak one on my SG that you have to be careful about how you block in things or they end up stuck in the wall behind the machine as it fires them off the chuck. Maybe I should strip it and see if its full of funk inside too.
The tapped unpopulated holes should have another end fence with oval holes bolted via them, so you can raise the fence slightly above the chuck plane surface to act as a fence to setup from, and to help stop firing things off the end.
Its easy to screw up using a mag chuck, he says remembering the time he put a tall block on and started grinding, only for it to tip because it wasn't blocked in vertically enough, and when it tips it becomes longer and doesnt fit between the chuck and wheel which pulls it in anyway. Causing your grinding wheel to explode, and sending abrasive projectiles round the shop (I have a heavy wheel guard fortunately) and necessitating a change of under clothing...
Wow, exciting cautionary tale. Bet you wont forget that one. Thanks again friend.
The heat expands the material, the contact surface increases, creating more heat.. Solution: measure the resistance, pull away for cool down.. Regarding the suction, you could do the Operating Theater Airflow thing, were you create over-pressure in the shed, which the dyson sucks towards the outside. Needs a sealed work environment though.
Also shouldn't the blade get a heat surface treatment?
Fantastic, great job.