Stevie, I happened across your videos when looking up my door handle replacement. Wondering what you were in grad school studying. Your ease on camera tells me you could have a lucrative career in front of a TV lens if you choose. You have the looks, the articulation, and the positive spirit that is infectious. You'd make a mint doing a show like Dirty Jobs or just automotive stuff. Kudos to you. I own a '96 F150 too. @@TheMinuteMasters
Jason Anders Thanks Jason! I really appreciate it! I would honestly love to do that. I guess I just need to get noticed by the right people. I got my masters in business and loved it! Good to hear! 96 is a good year! Keep her running!🤙
If that's your dream, then time's a wastin'. I'm going to do some research for you and see who will tell me the agents who handle guys like you are. You're already there on talent. You just need a show. @@TheMinuteMasters
Awesome video. I’ve been doing some work to my 93 F-150 that I bought when brand new. The years have been tough on the old truck so trying to get it back to better condition. as a young man 30 years ago I learned a lot from my grandpa. He’s gone now so I have to rely on you tubers such as you! I’m no mechanic and wondered if this was a project I could do. Thanks for this video it helped me decide on future plans for my truck! I’ve had it for almost 30 years and plan to keep it another 30 plus!
Thanks man!🤙 that’s awesome that you’ve own your truck from the beginning. There’s not many people like you you are able to do that. I’m definitely glad I can help you keep your 93 running. So I think you can definitely replace ball joints yourself. I think the key is to be as prepared as possible and not be in a rush. A good ball joint press makes all the difference. I actually ended up buying one online and they’re pretty cheap. You are most welcome! I hope you’re able to keep your truck for another 30 too!
I love how you don’t have specific tools for everything like most of us people, but instead show how you make the tools that most of us do have - work.
Awesome tutorial.. After swapping out the wheel bearings on my '92 F150.. I found out I have a bad lower ball joint... Yay! The truck's 30 year life in the rust belt didn't help it any, but that didn't slow me down. I was dreading having to do the ball joints due to the rust. This video came to mind when doing it! Thanks for making the video!
Thanks Adam!🤙 I appreciate it! I’ve lived in the rust belt all my life and I know the feeling of dread. I’m glad my video helped you out though. You’re welcome!
@@TheMinuteMasters The rust belt really is something when it comes too working on vehicles! The driver side ball joint was stiff and when I banged on it with a hammer, dirt and dust came out! 😬😬🤔
We're going to be doing this work on our 95 f150 2wd. We are the original owners too! Our pickup has served us very well so far so we're keeping it running for sure. Thanks for making this video.😊👋👍
Thanks for the video young man, not only are you thorough and articulate but have very good manners. This will help me immensely on my old 83 f150 all original 😎 right down to the ball joints and AM/FM cassette which I just re-belted as well as a new pinch roller. Added a new sylvania #37 light bulb and painted the indicator Dial florescent orange 😁. Keep the video's coming as I'm looking at a knee replacement and a pacemaker this summer so my days of getting under vehicle's and physically working hard is running out, assuming the virus isn't still holding us all hostage. Take care and be safe.
Randy W. Brown Thanks man! I really appreciate it!🤙 Good year! My dad and brother had 82 and 81 respectively. I definitely did some work on them and appreciated the simplicity. I sure will! Wow! Sounds like you are getting new parts yourself. Well, if the country opens up and you have your surgery, I wish you all the best and a speedy recovery. Stay safe and enjoy your truck!
Hey man good video! And its called a pick fork because back in the day pickles were stored in big barrels. The tool used to grab a pickle out of the brine looked just like the tool you were using. Youd scoop in push the fork onto the pickle and take it out
Cole Rippeon Thanks man! Oh right! I totally forgot! The wooden barrels with the plastic insert. I haven’t seen one of those in a while! Thanks for telling me!🤙
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! If you don’t mind me asking, what made you not sure at first? I’m in the progress of trying to improve my channel. So any tips you can give me would be great!
@@TheMinuteMasters I guess cuz your young but after watching 3 or 4 videos, which is right where I'm at with my 1987 F150 Lariat 2wd, I figured out you know your shit and like how you get to the point. Only thing I could see improving, which I know without 3 hands is a pain, is showing more the breakdown of sections like taking the ball joint out or tie rod ends. You got a contact off of YT? Like to send a couple pictures of my truck aND ASK A COUPLE QUESTIONS IF THATS COOL.
@@flagshipfurniturebuilder2929 Gotcha good to know. Well all of my recent videos show more breakdown because I use a camera stand. So I’m improving in that department for sure. I sure do:👇 sxtreacy@gmail.com
I bought a 1 1/8" wrench and socket for my F150 based on this video. As it turned out, my "92" is a 1 5/16" lower nut. Home Depot had a Husky brand wrench for about $21.00, but the 1/2" drive, 1 5/16" 6-point shallow socket had to come from Amazon. Tip: Lowes skips over the 1 5/16" size, and neither Lowes or Home Depot carry a socket larger than 1 1/16" unless you're willing to purchase their entire master set.
Interesting that Ford used two different sized nuts. Thanks for the tip Barry!🤙 it’s funny how tool manufacturers have figured out how to get people to buy a full set over a single socket.
I know that I will probably never use my 1 5/16 Inch wrench again. To make matters worse, I ended up having to split the nut in order to remove it. It was a booger.
@@TheMinuteMasters they did press out, the vice we had was different from yours. it only had 3 dies and 2 press plates but we rigged it up slightly and managed to get them out and back in after 5 hours of trying and looking lol.
Well done, my friend. I would have still loved to see the pressing action on both ends but this gives me a great start on the steps needed. Keep doing good work.
You can also hit the knuckle where the tie rod is connected with a hammer or air hammer which shocks it and it will literally just fall by itself. Also you can leave a nut partially threaded on when attempting to separate the ball joint so the knuckle doesnt fall to the ground. Just tricks of the trade
Sal Gonzalez Nope!😩 I really wish it was and I would definitely pick up a 4x4 one if I could. That’s why I want to go the prerunner/mid travel suspension route. Thanks Sal! 🤙
Hey I was wondering if you could point me in the direction of obtaining that sway bar set up I have a sway bar but nowhere to attach it because my truck also didn't come with a sway bar from the factory, thanks in advance I haven't had any luck with Google or ford forums
Unfortunately, the company called Hellwig discontinued that kit. If you want a front sway bar, you’ll have to find the factory set up in a junkyard. Personally, now that I’ve done my 4 x 4 swap on the front, I’m not going to add a sway bar.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks, I'm doing ball joints on my 94 Ranger next week with the moog upgraded camber sleeves and I wasnt sure if they got greased or not.
Does the upper ball joint require a snap ring? I don't recall taking any off my top ball joints, only the lower ball joints, but my new upper ball joints came with snap rings.
The new upper ball drones do come with snacks, but I’ve never been able to get the ball joint to press far enough to use them. I don’t think they make the ball joints long enough to utilize them.
I went to get an alignment done on my 93 f150. The shop told me it would be $1800 because I needed new upper and lower ball joints...I guess this is the next project on the list for my f1shitty. Lol
Damn! I was going to say that’s high for just an alignment but they also want to replace the ball joints. You can definitely take a shot at replacing them yourself. $1800 is pretty expensive.
@@TheMinuteMasters I'll be knocking it out in the next few days. The "while I'm at it" bug got me so new coil springs will be going in at the same time.
Good question. In a perfect world I think the top and bottom would have a snap ring. However, the ball joints weren’t long enough to pass through the mounting hole and expose the groove for the snap ring on the other side. So I didn’t end of using the snap rings which so far hasn’t caused any issues for me.
@@TheMinuteMasters the reason im in this situation is because after a hard bump, the ball joint up top shifted out of its home. Now im debating finding someone to tac weld the joint into the knuckle
@@TheMinuteMasters I will be trying out a different ball joint today to see if it works better. I will let you know what happens. Thanks stevie, have a great one!
Hey Steve I think I’m either having a fuel pump issue or transmission problem. I have the same truck and trans as you, my truck seems to shift up and down quiet a bit. If I give it gas it will shift up and then back down. What do you think I could have going on? Is it possible a transmission solenoid is acting up? Thanks
Jakestarr1723 I don’t think that would be a fuel issue. If your engine became starved for fuel, it would stumble. You can check the fuel pressure if you want and change the fuel filter. I think it’s the transmission. Have you had the codes read? There is an OBD1 port on the driver’s side fender near the master break cylinder. You can buy OBD1 readers at some parts stores and Amazon for sure. If a solenoid is acting up it could throw a code. If no codes show, then have the transmission fluid changed. Old or burnt fluid makes transmissions show all kinds of bad symptoms. Once you do those things, we can start to really narrow down your problem. How many miles are on your truck?
The Minute Masters there is 125,000 on the truck. It sat for about 7 years. I had the torque converter drained but I should probably check codes and maybe look into changing the trans filter
Jakestarr1723 Yeah definitely do a full transmission tune up ie change the fluid, filter, flush the system, and clean the pan out. A good tune up works wonders for an automatic transmission.
Dexter Thompson Thanks!🤙 So in order to keep the videos short I don’t show actual work. However, I am experimenting with time lapse footage for some videos I’m working on now. Hopefully, you guys like that. Thanks for watching!
@@TheMinuteMasters STILL A GREAT VIDEO MAN. going to be doing the leaf suspension shackles next. watched your way of doing it. watched it 3 x now. so i feel confident i can do it. AGAIN thanks for your videos. there Perfect!!!
Does the upper ball joint have a snap ring on the top? Mine definitely doesn't have one on the bottom like the lower one has, but I've been really wrenching on the press and the upper ball join isn't moving at all.
firefoxmoz I can’t remember exactly which ones have a snap ring but I wasn’t able to get the snap rings on all of them. The ball joints I replaced were missing snap rings too. I think if the ball joint is tight enough, you should be good.
Thank you for your quick reply. It actually didn’t have a snap ring. I actually got it out soon after writing the comment lol. The new one came with a snap ring which threw me off.
@@TheMinuteMasters I forgot to say, I owe you a big thank you for posting this video. You made the job a breeze with the exception of all the rusty parts that had been on the truck for 26 years.
firefoxmoz You are most welcome man!🤙 I know what it’s like to begin working on these trucks. I’m glad I could help ya out! Yeah rusty parts are always a pain! Lol Luckily, I have fewer and fewer rusty parts. Lol
Good question. If I remember correctly that arrangement did work, believe it or not. The ball joint did press out into the steel sleeve. The press “cap” has a center hole that the top part of the ball joint could slide into.
VICTOR TOBIAS So I ordered the lowers online from summit. That are Moog brand. The uppers were an Advanced Auto Parts brand. I was only told the lowers were bad. So I only ordered those initial. When I found the uppers were bad, I had to run out and buy them.
Nor rhe exact video I was looking for but basically the same my bullbose tire popped off while driving ( previos owner) and it bent fender broke studs flat spot in the disc and it bent that last thing I think its called the spindle maybe but was looking for a video on how to get it off
If you have a bullnose the suspension are near identical. The spindle is where the hub mounts to. So it’s spindle then the hub bearings with the hub over then. The rotor(disc) free floats on the hub on 4x4 trucks and on 2wd, the rotor and hub are machines together. If you want to remove the spindle you are essentially have to removed the spindle assembly. The spindle assembly is mounted to the i-beam (bottom of the shock and spring) using the two ball joints. So you are headed in the right direction.
@@TheMinuteMasters I have to remove the axel. The only real down side is I gotta spend a extra couple bucks on a spindle socket. Awww man. Guess I gotta buy another 95 f1 f1 f350 or bronco....oooohh nooooo. Thank you and God bless
Love the way u work 😀....in PA they use salt on the roads right? Am just thinking id my buddys bronco is as easy to come out ....when he gets to them 🤣
Leatherkid01 Thanks LK! They lots of salt and brine. It just eats everything away. Honestly, with some of these press in type of parts, I put anti-seize on them. Between pressure and the c clips, these will never pop out on their own. A little anti-seize will just make the job easier down the road.🤙
Mr. Chris Unfortunately, you do have to remove the rotor and caliper assemble. Also if I remember correctly, you need to replace both ball joints if you are replacing any of them. It all depends on the ball joint press. Although, depending on the order you can replace one of them. I suggest replacing both because you are already there.
@@TheMinuteMasters I have been doing them for a long time. You dont have to. Makes it easier to handle. But you can secure the rotor and hub on a jack or block only goes down a little.
So much of this overdone vehicle inspection is about catering to interest groups, in my opinion. Glad you could do the work yourself. That beats the system, in my opinion.
I agree. It’s all about forcing people into having their cars repaired and keeping certain auto repair places open. Plus the state makes money off “certifying” shops as official inspections locations. Me too! I would have spent a small fortune otherwise.
I don’t normally show me actually doing the work because I don’t have a free hand. However, if you use a ball joint press with an impact hammer, you will be just fine. You can always use penetrating oil and some heat to loosen things up.
I like your videos but... ...like a good author, you need to show, not tell. You do too many things off camera. In this video you did not show your using the tie rod puller. I really wish you had. Now I have to check out other folks' videos to learn. Do you really want viewers to check out your competition? In other videos you repeatedly say things like, Okay, I'm going to remove this and then I'll be back and we'll install the new one. Installing is only half the job, and you can't do it if you don't know how to remove.
I’ve had a few viewers mention this to me. I have two major constraints to make videos that way. One, showing all the work aka letting the camera roll would make the videos 2 to 3 times longer. On average that would make one of my videos 20-25 minutes or more in length. That length may be good for some but it’s inconvenient for most people looking to get information quickly. Second, (and this reason is more practical) it’s difficult filming solo, especially when using an iPhone. Since this video, I have added a GoPro to my bag of tricks. So hopefully I can capture those missed steps. Anyhow, thank you for the input and thanks for watching!
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks for the nice reply. You have the makings of success, a great on-screen presence, knowledgable, to the point, but I disagree with your leaving out crucial procedures. I do agree length is critical. 10 minutes max for most vids for me. But viewers need to see how things are done, not told to come back after they're done. Perhaps fast-forwarding at times would help. Or breaking the video into parts: disassembly and assembly, for instance. Best regards!
Thai Robert No problem! 🤙 Thank you I appreciate it. I’ll definitely take your input. I try including more work with each video. I like the separate video idea for assembly and dis-assembly. Thanks again!
You've never worked as a mechanic. We don't use a fork or puller to separate tie rods or ball joints. Faster than you can blink your eye we've got it apart. Please don't make videos if you don't know how to do it.
@TheMinuteMasters you use a good size hammer, 3-4 lbs, and smack the outside of the joint where the tapered stud goes through. That will pinch the tapered hole and it falls right apart. The tools you've got are never used.
@@onetransmission7871 So I heard that method but I just don’t have a heavy enough hammer. I tried with a 20 oz hammer and that didn’t work. I’ll add a heavier hammer to the buy list.
Really nice seeing someone else with the same truck doing their own maintenance. Makes me feel better about trying to do my own.
908Trane Nice! I’m glad they help ya out!🤙
Stevie, I happened across your videos when looking up my door handle replacement. Wondering what you were in grad school studying. Your ease on camera tells me you could have a lucrative career in front of a TV lens if you choose. You have the looks, the articulation, and the positive spirit that is infectious. You'd make a mint doing a show like Dirty Jobs or just automotive stuff. Kudos to you. I own a '96 F150 too. @@TheMinuteMasters
Jason Anders Thanks Jason! I really appreciate it! I would honestly love to do that. I guess I just need to get noticed by the right people. I got my masters in business and loved it! Good to hear! 96 is a good year! Keep her running!🤙
If that's your dream, then time's a wastin'. I'm going to do some research for you and see who will tell me the agents who handle guys like you are. You're already there on talent. You just need a show. @@TheMinuteMasters
Jason Anders That’s true! Thanks Jason! I appreciate it. I’ll do some research on my end too.
Awesome video. I’ve been doing some work to my 93 F-150 that I bought when brand new. The years have been tough on the old truck so trying to get it back to better condition.
as a young man 30 years ago I learned a lot from my grandpa. He’s gone now so I have to rely on you tubers such as you! I’m no mechanic and wondered if this was a project I could do.
Thanks for this video it helped me decide on future plans for my truck!
I’ve had it for almost 30 years and plan to keep it another 30 plus!
Thanks man!🤙 that’s awesome that you’ve own your truck from the beginning. There’s not many people like you you are able to do that. I’m definitely glad I can help you keep your 93 running.
So I think you can definitely replace ball joints yourself. I think the key is to be as prepared as possible and not be in a rush. A good ball joint press makes all the difference. I actually ended up buying one online and they’re pretty cheap.
You are most welcome! I hope you’re able to keep your truck for another 30 too!
I’m going to do this to soon is warm up I don’t want to pay for it
I love how you don’t have specific tools for everything like most of us people, but instead show how you make the tools that most of us do have - work.
Thanks Bobby!🤙 I appreciate the observation! It’s true. I’m not made of money and the budget isn’t always in my favor. So I make do with what I have.
Awesome tutorial.. After swapping out the wheel bearings on my '92 F150.. I found out I have a bad lower ball joint... Yay! The truck's 30 year life in the rust belt didn't help it any, but that didn't slow me down. I was dreading having to do the ball joints due to the rust.
This video came to mind when doing it! Thanks for making the video!
Thanks Adam!🤙 I appreciate it!
I’ve lived in the rust belt all my life and I know the feeling of dread. I’m glad my video helped you out though. You’re welcome!
@@TheMinuteMasters The rust belt really is something when it comes too working on vehicles! The driver side ball joint was stiff and when I banged on it with a hammer, dirt and dust came out! 😬😬🤔
@@theslacker29ify The rust belt just eats everything steel. Damn!😳
We're going to be doing this work on our 95 f150 2wd. We are the original owners too! Our pickup has served us very well so far so we're keeping it running for sure. Thanks for making this video.😊👋👍
Nice!🤙 That’s incredible. Good for you for keep your 95 that long. You are most welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video young man, not only are you thorough and articulate but have very good manners. This will help me immensely on my old 83 f150 all original 😎 right down to the ball joints and AM/FM cassette which I just re-belted as well as a new pinch roller. Added a new sylvania #37 light bulb and painted the indicator Dial florescent orange 😁.
Keep the video's coming as I'm looking at a knee replacement and a pacemaker this summer so my days of getting under vehicle's and physically working hard is running out, assuming the virus isn't still holding us all hostage. Take care and be safe.
Randy W. Brown Thanks man! I really appreciate it!🤙 Good year! My dad and brother had 82 and 81 respectively. I definitely did some work on them and appreciated the simplicity.
I sure will! Wow! Sounds like you are getting new parts yourself. Well, if the country opens up and you have your surgery, I wish you all the best and a speedy recovery. Stay safe and enjoy your truck!
@@TheMinuteMasters Will do!
Great video, great advice. I got a good laugh when you looked over at the impact after stating not to use the impact lol.
Thanks man!🤙 Yup! Lol It just works so much better! Lol
Hey man good video! And its called a pick fork because back in the day pickles were stored in big barrels. The tool used to grab a pickle out of the brine looked just like the tool you were using. Youd scoop in push the fork onto the pickle and take it out
Cole Rippeon Thanks man! Oh right! I totally forgot! The wooden barrels with the plastic insert. I haven’t seen one of those in a while! Thanks for telling me!🤙
Really diggin’ your channel bro. Wasn’t sure at first but you got your channel plugged in here now. Like how you get to the point....no BS. 👍
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
If you don’t mind me asking, what made you not sure at first?
I’m in the progress of trying to improve my channel. So any tips you can give me would be great!
@@TheMinuteMasters I guess cuz your young but after watching 3 or 4 videos, which is right where I'm at with my 1987 F150 Lariat 2wd, I figured out you know your shit and like how you get to the point. Only thing I could see improving, which I know without 3 hands is a pain, is showing more the breakdown of sections like taking the ball joint out or tie rod ends. You got a contact off of YT? Like to send a couple pictures of my truck aND ASK A COUPLE QUESTIONS IF THATS COOL.
@@flagshipfurniturebuilder2929 Gotcha good to know. Well all of my recent videos show more breakdown because I use a camera stand. So I’m improving in that department for sure.
I sure do:👇
sxtreacy@gmail.com
I bought a 1 1/8" wrench and socket for my F150 based on this video. As it turned out, my "92" is a 1 5/16" lower nut. Home Depot had a Husky brand wrench for about $21.00, but the 1/2" drive, 1 5/16" 6-point shallow socket had to come from Amazon.
Tip: Lowes skips over the 1 5/16" size, and neither Lowes or Home Depot carry a socket larger than 1 1/16" unless you're willing to purchase their entire master set.
Interesting that Ford used two different sized nuts.
Thanks for the tip Barry!🤙 it’s funny how tool manufacturers have figured out how to get people to buy a full set over a single socket.
I know that I will probably never use my 1 5/16 Inch wrench again. To make matters worse, I ended up having to split the nut in order to remove it. It was a booger.
@@barryredman2803 I hardly ever use my 1-1/8” socket too. No way! Did you use one of those nuts splitter tools?
I believe my lower ball joint nut was a 28MM.
@@TheMinuteMasters I cut it with a cutoff wheeL, being careful not to damage threads, then I chiseled it until I could turn it with the wrench.
I like your common sense and work style
leon vanaswegen Thanks man! 🤙 I appreciate it!
The video was nice but I really needed to see how you pressed them in and out. I desperately needed that step more than the others.
Are yours not pressing out? You do you need to see how I set up the ball joint press?
@@TheMinuteMasters they did press out, the vice we had was different from yours. it only had 3 dies and 2 press plates but we rigged it up slightly and managed to get them out and back in after 5 hours of trying and looking lol.
@@xcrimsonxpramo3374 Nice!🤙 Well I’m glad it worked out. Setting up the ball joint press can be the tricky part. Thanks for watching man!
looks straight forward and easy enough
if ball joints fuel pump and power window gear is all i have to replace on my old 1990 F150 i cant complain
Yup, ball joints aren’t bad at all. Definitely get a ball joint press.
That’s right! 🤙
Well done, my friend. I would have still loved to see the pressing action on both ends but this gives me a great start on the steps needed. Keep doing good work.
Thanks man!🤙 I’m going to try and include more action footage in any new videos. I’m glad it helped you out. Will do!
Just picked up a 95 and I can’t wait to start working on it
Yul Pickering Hell yeah man!🤙 95 is a good year. You will love it! I’ve got over 60 videos on these trucks.
The Minute Masters thank you for making them. I subscribed to your channel
Yul Pickering No problem man!🤙 I love working on these trucks. So I’ll keep the videos coming. Thanks! I appreciate it!
You can also hit the knuckle where the tie rod is connected with a hammer or air hammer which shocks it and it will literally just fall by itself. Also you can leave a nut partially threaded on when attempting to separate the ball joint so the knuckle doesnt fall to the ground. Just tricks of the trade
Love it! Thanks for sharing man!🤙
Thanks, brother. The procedure is identical on a Ford Ranger as well!
No problem man!🤙 Good to know!
Your big ol purple truck is not 4x4 ?🤯
Well still a great video for those who are not, saving this video just in case I ever need it.
Sal Gonzalez Nope!😩 I really wish it was and I would definitely pick up a 4x4 one if I could. That’s why I want to go the prerunner/mid travel suspension route. Thanks Sal! 🤙
I wonder why there isnt a cutter pin to install on the castle nut to keep the castle nut from backing
backing off?
I believe there is a cotter pin there to keep the castle but from backing off. Unless I forgot to put it back.
Nice vid clear and described each step well,found it very helpful,Good job and thanks.
Thanks man! 🤙 I’m glad I could help you out! Thanks for watching!
Hey I was wondering if you could point me in the direction of obtaining that sway bar set up I have a sway bar but nowhere to attach it because my truck also didn't come with a sway bar from the factory, thanks in advance I haven't had any luck with Google or ford forums
Unfortunately, the company called Hellwig discontinued that kit. If you want a front sway bar, you’ll have to find the factory set up in a junkyard. Personally, now that I’ve done my 4 x 4 swap on the front, I’m not going to add a sway bar.
@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the reply I wasn't expecting a response especially so quick so thank you very much
Thank you for making great videos!
You’re welcome man!🤙
Excellent video, great job, thank you for sharing!
Thanks Dennis! 🤙 I appreciate it. You’re welcome!
An acetylene torch is useful on north east vehicles. I spent 4 hours on one side and still not done. I borrowed a torch and things came apart nice.
Country Boy 85 That’s so true! I use a propane torch I normally use for soldering. Does the trick every time!🤙
Are you supposed to grease the inside and outside of the camber adjustment sleeve before reseating it?
Not that I am aware of.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks, I'm doing ball joints on my 94 Ranger next week with the moog upgraded camber sleeves and I wasnt sure if they got greased or not.
Penetrating oil and a hammer to the tie-rod end knuckle are the way I've always done it. Living in Michigan I know all about rust
That will definitely do the trick for sure!
Can you do a video on 2004 - 2006 E150 spindle ,rotors and caliper swap upgrade
Unfortunately I don’t have access to an E150. Is your E150 2wd or 4wd?
Does the upper ball joint require a snap ring? I don't recall taking any off my top ball joints, only the lower ball joints, but my new upper ball joints came with snap rings.
The new upper ball drones do come with snacks, but I’ve never been able to get the ball joint to press far enough to use them. I don’t think they make the ball joints long enough to utilize them.
Lower BJ torque is 110 Lb-Ft. Then tighten to line up cotter pin if not already so.
Jackson Cruz You got it man!
i wish there was a video on pressing the new ones in
Check out my 4x4 swap part one. Full ball joint removal and install showing everything.
Great video!
Thanks man!🤙
Great video man, thank you helped a lot!!!
Thanks man!🤙 You are most welcome! I’m glad I could help ya out!
I went to get an alignment done on my 93 f150. The shop told me it would be $1800 because I needed new upper and lower ball joints...I guess this is the next project on the list for my f1shitty. Lol
Damn! I was going to say that’s high for just an alignment but they also want to replace the ball joints. You can definitely take a shot at replacing them yourself. $1800 is pretty expensive.
@@TheMinuteMasters I'll be knocking it out in the next few days. The "while I'm at it" bug got me so new coil springs will be going in at the same time.
@@downsyndromebear Nice! It’s a good time to replace the coil springs too. If your shocks are old, I’d replace them too.
Stevie,
Do the upper ball joints need snap rings? Do the snap rings go on the bottom or top of the ball joint?
Good question. In a perfect world I think the top and bottom would have a snap ring. However, the ball joints weren’t long enough to pass through the mounting hole and expose the groove for the snap ring on the other side. So I didn’t end of using the snap rings which so far hasn’t caused any issues for me.
@@TheMinuteMasters the reason im in this situation is because after a hard bump, the ball joint up top shifted out of its home. Now im debating finding someone to tac weld the joint into the knuckle
@@UserName-ln5ol Gotcha. You definitely need the snap ring then. Did the previous ball joint have a snap ring?
@@TheMinuteMasters yup
@@TheMinuteMasters I will be trying out a different ball joint today to see if it works better. I will let you know what happens. Thanks stevie, have a great one!
Hey Steve I think I’m either having a fuel pump issue or transmission problem. I have the same truck and trans as you, my truck seems to shift up and down quiet a bit. If I give it gas it will shift up and then back down. What do you think I could have going on? Is it possible a transmission solenoid is acting up? Thanks
Jakestarr1723 I don’t think that would be a fuel issue. If your engine became starved for fuel, it would stumble. You can check the fuel pressure if you want and change the fuel filter. I think it’s the transmission. Have you had the codes read? There is an OBD1 port on the driver’s side fender near the master break cylinder. You can buy OBD1 readers at some parts stores and Amazon for sure. If a solenoid is acting up it could throw a code.
If no codes show, then have the transmission fluid changed. Old or burnt fluid makes transmissions show all kinds of bad symptoms. Once you do those things, we can start to really narrow down your problem. How many miles are on your truck?
The Minute Masters there is 125,000 on the truck. It sat for about 7 years. I had the torque converter drained but I should probably check codes and maybe look into changing the trans filter
Jakestarr1723 Yeah definitely do a full transmission tune up ie change the fluid, filter, flush the system, and clean the pan out. A good tune up works wonders for an automatic transmission.
Good video
Thanks man!🤙
GREAT video, BUT you didn't show re-installation of new ball joints
Dexter Thompson Thanks!🤙 So in order to keep the videos short I don’t show actual work. However, I am experimenting with time lapse footage for some videos I’m working on now. Hopefully, you guys like that. Thanks for watching!
@@TheMinuteMasters STILL A GREAT VIDEO MAN. going to be doing the leaf suspension shackles next. watched your way of doing it. watched it 3 x now. so i feel confident i can do it.
AGAIN thanks for your videos. there Perfect!!!
Dexter Thompson Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! Nice! The leaf spring shackles and hangers are pretty straight forward. Glad I could help you out!
@@TheMinuteMasters your the best is all i can say.
Does the upper ball joint have a snap ring on the top? Mine definitely doesn't have one on the bottom like the lower one has, but I've been really wrenching on the press and the upper ball join isn't moving at all.
firefoxmoz I can’t remember exactly which ones have a snap ring but I wasn’t able to get the snap rings on all of them. The ball joints I replaced were missing snap rings too. I think if the ball joint is tight enough, you should be good.
Thank you for your quick reply. It actually didn’t have a snap ring. I actually got it out soon after writing the comment lol. The new one came with a snap ring which threw me off.
firefoxmoz No problem man!🤙 I’m glad it worked out!
@@TheMinuteMasters I forgot to say, I owe you a big thank you for posting this video. You made the job a breeze with the exception of all the rusty parts that had been on the truck for 26 years.
firefoxmoz You are most welcome man!🤙 I know what it’s like to begin working on these trucks. I’m glad I could help ya out! Yeah rusty parts are always a pain! Lol Luckily, I have fewer and fewer rusty parts. Lol
Is there any other company that makes aftermarket sway bars for these trucks the place u ordered from told me there not being manufacturered anymore?
See if you can contact Hellwig directly and find out who their distributors are.
Great video Bro! Gladly just subscribed to her channel.Thanks for sharing, RESPECT!
Thanks man! 🤙 I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
I’m confused because @7:36 your ball joint press is incorrectly set. Did you realize this and then switch it to the correct way to do it?…
Good question. If I remember correctly that arrangement did work, believe it or not. The ball joint did press out into the steel sleeve. The press “cap” has a center hole that the top part of the ball joint could slide into.
What brand are they ? Bought them online or local auto parts
VICTOR TOBIAS So I ordered the lowers online from summit. That are Moog brand. The uppers were an Advanced Auto Parts brand. I was only told the lowers were bad. So I only ordered those initial. When I found the uppers were bad, I had to run out and buy them.
What are the torque specs on your ball joints
Ethan darnell Funny you should ask. I just had someone comment a 110 ft lb.
Nor rhe exact video I was looking for but basically the same my bullbose tire popped off while driving ( previos owner) and it bent fender broke studs flat spot in the disc and it bent that last thing I think its called the spindle maybe but was looking for a video on how to get it off
If you have a bullnose the suspension are near identical. The spindle is where the hub mounts to. So it’s spindle then the hub bearings with the hub over then. The rotor(disc) free floats on the hub on 4x4 trucks and on 2wd, the rotor and hub are machines together. If you want to remove the spindle you are essentially have to removed the spindle assembly. The spindle assembly is mounted to the i-beam (bottom of the shock and spring) using the two ball joints. So you are headed in the right direction.
man i got the 4x4 so i gotta do a whole lot extra dont i?
Technically yes, I’m not sure what that includes but it shouldn’t be too bad.
@@TheMinuteMasters I have to remove the axel. The only real down side is I gotta spend a extra couple bucks on a spindle socket. Awww man. Guess I gotta buy another 95 f1 f1 f350 or bronco....oooohh nooooo. Thank you and God bless
Love the way u work 😀....in PA they use salt on the roads right? Am just thinking id my buddys bronco is as easy to come out ....when he gets to them 🤣
Leatherkid01 Thanks LK! They lots of salt and brine. It just eats everything away. Honestly, with some of these press in type of parts, I put anti-seize on them. Between pressure and the c clips, these will never pop out on their own. A little anti-seize will just make the job easier down the road.🤙
Awesome thanks
My 92 I replaced just the upper ball joint with out taking the rotor or break caliper off. I have locking hubs so a little different from yours
Mr. Chris Unfortunately, you do have to remove the rotor and caliper assemble. Also if I remember correctly, you need to replace both ball joints if you are replacing any of them. It all depends on the ball joint press. Although, depending on the order you can replace one of them. I suggest replacing both because you are already there.
@@TheMinuteMasters I have been doing them for a long time. You dont have to. Makes it easier to handle. But you can secure the rotor and hub on a jack or block only goes down a little.
So much of this overdone vehicle inspection is about catering to interest groups, in my opinion. Glad you could do the work yourself. That beats the system, in my opinion.
I agree. It’s all about forcing people into having their cars repaired and keeping certain auto repair places open. Plus the state makes money off “certifying” shops as official inspections locations.
Me too! I would have spent a small fortune otherwise.
Got failed for the same reason. Bad upper ball joint.. that's my weekend project.
Gumba Sal That’s sucks man. Good luck and rent all the appropriate tools. 🤙 You can also buy a ball joint press pretty cheaply on Amazon FYI.
It would of been better if you showed actual process of removing the parts so I would have a better idea of how hard or easy they actually come apart
I don’t normally show me actually doing the work because I don’t have a free hand. However, if you use a ball joint press with an impact hammer, you will be just fine. You can always use penetrating oil and some heat to loosen things up.
I have a 1979 f150 2 wheel drive and it's not the same
Walter Rayburn What’s the difference between the two?
@@TheMinuteMasters mine has the king pin
Hit the side and it will come of 49 y of experience
dady big Thanks!🤙 I’ll keep that in mind for the next set!
You didn't say torque specs
For the castle nut?
@@TheMinuteMasters yes
Pinch bolt for upper ball joint and lower ball joint.
@@josecaraballo9540 Ah! That’s right. I’m trying to remember if a Haynes manual has that torque spec. I can’t remember either off the top of my head.
Not so easy on 4x4...
But like your vids kid...
Timothy King Yeah that’s what I hear. Thanks man! Glad you enjoy them!🤙
i.was.asking.for.aford.f.150.1999.upper.andlower.ball.joint.pick.up.v.6
Moog makes a good set which you can get from any auto parts store.
The only reason I watched your video was to see how you pressed them in. And of course watching the whole part you skip over it.
What do you need to know? It should be a straightforward press.
You are SO fuckin beautiful..
Thanks!🤙
Not a good video didn't show completely taking them out and putting them back in.
What steps are you missing?
this video is not that good he skip to many steps and he bounces around.
What steps are you missing?
I like your videos but...
...like a good author, you need to show, not tell. You do too many things off camera. In this video you did not show your using the tie rod puller. I really wish you had. Now I have to check out other folks' videos to learn. Do you really want viewers to check out your competition?
In other videos you repeatedly say things like, Okay, I'm going to remove this and then I'll be back and we'll install the new one.
Installing is only half the job, and you can't do it if you don't know how to remove.
I’ve had a few viewers mention this to me. I have two major constraints to make videos that way. One, showing all the work aka letting the camera roll would make the videos 2 to 3 times longer. On average that would make one of my videos 20-25 minutes or more in length. That length may be good for some but it’s inconvenient for most people looking to get information quickly.
Second, (and this reason is more practical) it’s difficult filming solo, especially when using an iPhone. Since this video, I have added a GoPro to my bag of tricks. So hopefully I can capture those missed steps.
Anyhow, thank you for the input and thanks for watching!
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks for the nice reply. You have the makings of success, a great on-screen presence, knowledgable, to the point, but I disagree with your leaving out crucial procedures. I do agree length is critical. 10 minutes max for most vids for me. But viewers need to see how things are done, not told to come back after they're done. Perhaps fast-forwarding at times would help. Or breaking the video into parts: disassembly and assembly, for instance.
Best regards!
Thai Robert No problem! 🤙 Thank you I appreciate it. I’ll definitely take your input. I try including more work with each video. I like the separate video idea for assembly and dis-assembly. Thanks again!
You've never worked as a mechanic. We don't use a fork or puller to separate tie rods or ball joints. Faster than you can blink your eye we've got it apart. Please don't make videos if you don't know how to do it.
So then how do you separate them?
@TheMinuteMasters you use a good size hammer, 3-4 lbs, and smack the outside of the joint where the tapered stud goes through. That will pinch the tapered hole and it falls right apart. The tools you've got are never used.
@@onetransmission7871 So I heard that method but I just don’t have a heavy enough hammer. I tried with a 20 oz hammer and that didn’t work.
I’ll add a heavier hammer to the buy list.