Watched this video about 10 times while not only doing my lower ball joint, but also my brakes, rotors, tie rod and wheel bearings. You definitely helped me out a ton I’m knowing how and when to take each piece apart and put it back together
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS.... SOOOOO HELPFUL! They make a ball joint kit/set specifically for the Taurus (part #27163), but it does not include the heavy duty C-clamp you will need (if u don't already have one of course. Ball Joints usually take enormous force to remove). The kit/set you need to make this job easier is the "Ball Joint Adapter Set", made by the manufacturer "OEM", part number 27163. I had to rent the "one size fits all (rather NONE)" ball joint press set to get the C-clamp ($150 refundable), then go back the next day to a separate location an hour away that had it in stock to get kit 27163! Hopefully those doing this job will see this b4 wasting time and money running to get the right tools.
Just a little PSA: After you put the axle nut back on remember to torque the nut to 280nm (180 lb-ft) per ford specs or you will be having to replace your wheel bearings after they fail from not having the proper torque on the axle nut. (spent 4 years as ford technician and saw this happen countless times from people trying to do their own work)
Excellent video. He is doing it like most of us would do the job by improvising. Nice DIY video Nathan. Took my car in today to the shop to look at all the front end suspension and give me a list of what was worn and needed replacing. The only thing that didn't need replacing was the air in the tires. This video helps with one of the items at least. I don't think ford had a better idea when it came to riveting on the brake back plate though.
Man I just would like to tell you thanks this is the first video to explain it well and you explained it great you saved me a lot of money I wish I could buy you a beer lol THANKS
Nightmare job on my '05. I had to grind down the spot welds on the alignment bracket on the new struts. There was no where near enough clearance to pry down the lower control arm to pop in the ball joint stud. With the welds grinded down, the knuckle will slide up high enough on the strut to give you just barely enough clearance. Strut and knuckle had to go in as a unit. I had no such issues doing my '99, was able to pop the knuckle off and on with the strut in place. I also purchased the Powerbuilt Ford ball joint tool adapter (kit #77)for this job, makes that part of the job so much easier.
Same thing tonight with my brother in law 02 Taurus, I just supossed to do front wheel bearings but since shocks are aftermarket, there isn't clearence unless you remove the ball joint too (which was a pain in my ass), after grind a little bit the ball joint we were able to do it, but still we need replace all bad components, so next time I will take an advice, drop the subframe a little bit just to get clearance
I do mobile mechanic work, and though I know how to do these I always like to watch videos on the specific car before any job. Since I don't work in a shop, I've gotta be extra prepared. As an Ohio resident, I'm not excited about the corrosion condition of the car I'm going to be working on.
He was going to use the press, but since he couldn't and just ended up renting the ball joint presser tool, you don't actually have to remove the brakes, you can just remove the lug nut, pull the outer half of the cv axle out, and then pop the ball joint where that is. No need to remove the knuckle or anything, although you need to support the brakes and knuckle with a jack and wood or the brake and abs lines will be damaged during manipulation of the ball joint presser tool. But saves you quite a bit of time leaving the wheel mostly intact and ON the car.
Thank you. I came here just to see how to setup the tool. I did one side a year ago, and couldn’t remember how i got it out. After seeing you use the socket i remembered.
Nathan great video! And a tip for you, never use a screw driver to pry a caliper open against the brake pads! You will chip and do damage to them! A large C clamp is your best option!🤓
Put the knuckle on the strut base first, then press down on the control arm with your pry bar and get your ball joint stud through. Save fighting with the sway bar link and more frustration with the base of the strut getting stuck crooked in the knuckle.
Great video Nathan. Nice to see a video for this since the service manual states "ball joint not serviceable." I see you added the Sable to your tags. Please also add Lincoln Continental as this is the same for that car and I only happened to know that it is based on the Taurus; others probably won't.
Hey buddy I just put a new strut in cv axle on the right front passenger side, in now when I turn it seems like my tires are about to pop off,any tips sir
Something I did, that might help people. I couldn't put the ball joint into the hole then try to get the strut into it's hole. I had to get axle and strut where they needed to be, make sure axle nut is a few turns on, then push down on control arm and move hub into place for ball joint to fall into hole. I couldn't get enough clearance to do it strut last because of subframe blocking control arm from going down enough. lol I bet I looked funny doing that, but it worked. Also, make sure tie rod and sway link are off so you have more maneuverability with hub.
I couldn’t get the punch bolt off for the life of me. Got it like 2 inches out and it was still really really tight. Any suggestions on how I should go about taking the pinch bolt off?
Check Lloyd Nation’s video. He has the OTC part number of the special tool for a Taurus/Sable ball joint. I rented it at Auto Zone. Worked great on the car.
Have you ever replaced the axels ? I'm going to be doing that soon. I've seen plenty of videos on how to do that, so I think I can use those. I was just wondering it you have a video showing how to do it. I have a 2002 Taurus.
@@bentnickel7487 There is a disturbing crackling sound coming from that area of the vehicle when making sharp turns. I make as wide a turn that I can now to avoid further damage. I didn't know what it was until I did some research . I think that it's also affecting the front disc rotors. The rotors were warping, so I had them resurfaced. But the problem reoccurred, so I replaced the rotors with new slotted ones to help cool them. I thought that they were getting to hot, and causing them to warp. The new rotors could possibly be damaged now because of the bad axels. There is a subtle but sure shudder while braking, so I start braking with plenty of time before I actually stop. I won't know if the rotors need to be resurfaced until after I have change out the axels, and while I'm there, change the steering linkages and control arm bushings. I have already replaced the wheel bearings. And then a realignment. Fun times.
@@realjaxon I think buying another Taurus would be cheaper than repairing. You can find a 2007 on Craigslist for less than 2000 dollars. I'm on my 3rd Taurus. I love 'em. Easy to work on. The 3L OHV is my favorite. Will go 300K if cared for.
@@bentnickel7487 I have been out of work since November of 2019, so buying another car isn't an option at this time. The parts are fairly inexpensive. New axels can be found for around $150. That '07 sure sounds good though. I have a DOHC 3.0L.
one note though,is it not best to break the axle bolt with the tire still on and still on the ground? (I've always done my cars this way to avoid putting any unneeded stress on the axle.) otherwise very good video though.
best way to get steering knuckle back on without removing upper sway bar link. install knuckle onto strut while using pry bar to pry lower control arm down. then insert axle. install axle nut but do not tighten. again pry bar lower control arm down, insert ball joint shaft into lower control arm. reinstall outer tie rod and other components such as pinch bolt, nut, tie rod nut, ball joint nut, etc...
Hey Nathan, is there any reason you should remove the assembly instead of just releasing the ball joint once you get the joint out of the lower suspension? Seems to me you'd have an easier time pressing out the joint while the unit is attached. It seems a manual ball joint press will have ample space to fit in there even while the unit is attached. I am interested because I will also be changing out the ball joints on my 2000 Taurus once the weather warms up! The driver's side joint is extremely squeaky when turning and any time the car hits a bump. Quite a bit of play when the car is jacked up, too. Any advice would be great!
Yes you could....If you can get a press tool of some kind in there, The strut housing is really close and gives less room. Perhaps someone has a way to do it as you expressed.
There is at least one video of it done that way. But you do still have to get the axle out, which seems trickier without removing anything else, but still possible. I am going to attempt to tackle it this way since I'm still flexible enough to do the pressing work while laying under the car, but if I run into any headaches I'm glad I've watched a few of these and know most of the techniques I want to use for a further disassembly. So my plan is: Axle nut loosening while tire still on ground if there is a center cap I can remove (should reduce strain on parking pawl compared to hitting that nut after removing the wheel) Lift and Remove wheel/tire Remove ball joint nut and separate from lower control arm with pickle fork Remove axle nut and washer, and attempt to separate axle from knuckle without further disassembly If all goes well to that point, I should be able to get the press tool in there to remove the old one and install the new one. One trick for that press tool was to simply cut most of the swivel part of the old one shorter with a cutoff tool, so the deep cup can be used without needing to put a socket over the ball joint threads. So I'll have my cutoff tool handy in case I want to do that.
All the ball joints for sale do not have a grease fitting. They come pregreased but I read somewhere that it’s not enough and it must be greased some more. Is that true?
Just smack them with a big hammer when you get the nut off....and mesure the distance of the ld tie rod ends from the hold down nut....so you will have a reference for the new ones. Hopefully it still will be pretty close to aliment.
Blend door ...Heater Blend Door Actuator, either the motor is bad or the actuator is stuck. I have to look at a 2005 ford focus...it has the same issue...Video soon (when I get time) ;)
TVWXMAN32 i have no heat. Air blows cold out the vents. If car is hot enough itll blow warm air for a not that long then go back to cold. And i have a egr valve insufficient flow problem something eating up my gas it burns out too quickly
Good video, but you must remove the top sway bar link. It is not good to try and remove that knuckle with that sway bar link attached you will definitely damage it. Also when putting the spindle back onto the bottom of the strut always throw a little season cream with a brush and get it in there good and the same thing on the bottom of the strut, and before you do that going there with a wide brush and clean it up real good it will slide right on like butter
Already ran into a big problem, the pinch pin bolt is like welded in there and won't come out. Sprayed the shit out of it with PB Blaster and it's been soaking for over 24 hours. I've tried pounding the shit out of it. I've used a air hammer. Impacting it until I broke 2 sockets. Never had anything stuck like this in my life, been working on cars since I was 15 years old. I went and bought new sockets and also a Bernzomatic TS8000KC Premium Torch Kit. That fucker is going to come out now dammit or I going to blow it up j/k hahahaha
hahah..me too! Get a propane torch..heat up the part that the threads go into. Hit with some penetrating fluid. Heat it up again..(you should hear some crinkling noise) as the bolt breaks free, ....then it comes right out!! Good luck and dont break it!! Oh..if you are planning to do your struts soon, now is the time. You will have to take this all apart again or go through the misery of trying fit the strut into the cup by prying down the control arm against the subframe. It is a god awful bitch unless you lower the subframe.
Did you use a torque bar for the axle nut ball joint nut and the pinch Bolt & Nut also did you replace the axle nut with a new one because some places I read when you take the axle nut off it's good to replace it with a new one
Nathan Rohrbough I have everything off. now I'm down to trying to remove the ball joint and it won't come out even with a pickle fork so what would your advice be on getting this out
I cannot for the life of me get the lower control arm off of the thread. I used a pickle fork and a pry bar. And doused it in penetrating oil. Tried to pry it off for hours. Might there be a bushing? Any suggestions?
No. Mine was a PITA to get off also! I used a big hammer...not quite a sledge hammer and just kept hitting it until it came off. You might try some heat with a propane torch that might aloa loosen it up.
Я проще делал, без инструмента. При снятии шаровой грел ступицу, легко выбить её. Когда ставил, новую шаровую опору ложил в морозильную камеру. И легко вставлял.
That tie rod was junk if you can wiggle the ends like that. Best thing to do in this scenero is replace it all. Most kits are like $40 for all of it from Detroit Axle.
Dealing with this now... going to try and put the ball joint in first and then try and connect the strut. Thought I was smart putting it all together but I just cannot get the a-arm to bend low enough. Some other video I watched is doing it the way we tried to and he somehow got it to clear!
PLEASE EXPLAIN TO ME WHY YOU JUST DIDN'T TAKE THE TWO BOLTS FOR THE CALIPER BRACKET AND REMOVE THEM TOGETHER AND YOU WOULDN'T HAVE TO REMOVE THEM SEPARATELY. IT'S SO MUCH EASIER
@@FixingWithPassion yeah but you're doing the video for other people not for you, what did you forget that. Also there's an easier way to install the bottom of the strut back into the knuckle, but I know you do it your way but yet you're making a video for other people. Your reply makes no sense like most UA-cam videos.
the easiest way to remove a balljoint if you're stuck is by cutting w/sawzall. that's what i did. goo.gl/y3oiJ7 you could try to heat the housing under the control arm red hot & than the pickle fork would work. it's my theory. if you put the new balljoint in the freezer the night before than pressing it in is much easier. the machine shop & the dealer first presses out the bearing than uses a right angle adapter in the press for the job. without this video i would'nt try to do the job. it was very helpful.
Thats a small kit? You should see the one they gave me. Like 5 pieces. Doesnt even work for my car. Fucking pissed. and it Took me 3 hours to get the knuckle off.
You call yourself a mechanic that tie rod end is garbage should not move that easy you have to force it to move it if it was good it would be a lot stiffer you would not be able to wiggle it that easy
As long as there no "play" in the movement its ok. Excessive play is a different story. That tie rod end just looked bad because I can move it. You have to feel them for slack/play. It was probably getting close to being replaced. New ones are stiffer to move but i can still move them also with my hands most of the time. There was no play in the steering or even a rattle! Car drove perfect for a year while I owned it!... -thanks for watching.
Watched this video about 10 times while not only doing my lower ball joint, but also my brakes, rotors, tie rod and wheel bearings. You definitely helped me out a ton I’m knowing how and when to take each piece apart and put it back together
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS.... SOOOOO HELPFUL! They make a ball joint kit/set specifically for the Taurus (part #27163), but it does not include the heavy duty C-clamp you will need (if u don't already have one of course. Ball Joints usually take enormous force to remove). The kit/set you need to make this job easier is the "Ball Joint Adapter Set", made by the manufacturer "OEM", part number 27163. I had to rent the "one size fits all (rather NONE)" ball joint press set to get the C-clamp ($150 refundable), then go back the next day to a separate location an hour away that had it in stock to get kit 27163! Hopefully those doing this job will see this b4 wasting time and money running to get the right tools.
Just a little PSA: After you put the axle nut back on remember to torque the nut to 280nm (180 lb-ft) per ford specs or you will be having to replace your wheel bearings after they fail from not having the proper torque on the axle nut. (spent 4 years as ford technician and saw this happen countless times from people trying to do their own work)
Thank you for not allowing adds in your video.
And great job on the bolt joint
Excellent video. He is doing it like most of us would do the job by improvising. Nice DIY video Nathan. Took my car in today to the shop to look at all the front end suspension and give me a list of what was worn and needed replacing. The only thing that didn't need replacing was the air in the tires. This video helps with one of the items at least. I don't think ford had a better idea when it came to riveting on the brake back plate though.
I fallowed your video instructions on my car and it turned out great. Exactly like you explained . Great job and thank you
Word!~
@@FixingWithPassion Hey jave you ever replaced the water pump I need some advice
You didn’t use power tools! Omg your the best!
And no $100,000 fancy Garage with rust on my nuts and bolts car....lol...unlike most of youtubers.
this is the first video to explain it well. good job and thank You
Cool thanks.
Man I just would like to tell you thanks this is the first video to explain it well and you explained it great you saved me a lot of money I wish I could buy you a beer lol THANKS
Thanks!
Nightmare job on my '05. I had to grind down the spot welds on the alignment bracket on the new struts. There was no where near enough clearance to pry down the lower control arm to pop in the ball joint stud. With the welds grinded down, the knuckle will slide up high enough on the strut to give you just barely enough clearance. Strut and knuckle had to go in as a unit. I had no such issues doing my '99, was able to pop the knuckle off and on with the strut in place. I also purchased the Powerbuilt Ford ball joint tool adapter (kit #77)for this job, makes that part of the job so much easier.
Nice!
Same thing tonight with my brother in law 02 Taurus, I just supossed to do front wheel bearings but since shocks are aftermarket, there isn't clearence unless you remove the ball joint too (which was a pain in my ass), after grind a little bit the ball joint we were able to do it, but still we need replace all bad components, so next time I will take an advice, drop the subframe a little bit just to get clearance
Just want to thank you for this info. Gotta do this exact replacement on mine soon! You've made it easy with this info, thanks a trillion!
Great!!!
Outstanding tutorial.
Lefty loosey righty tighty!
Yes!~
I do mobile mechanic work, and though I know how to do these I always like to watch videos on the specific car before any job. Since I don't work in a shop, I've gotta be extra prepared.
As an Ohio resident, I'm not excited about the corrosion condition of the car I'm going to be working on.
Same
That is great amount of information. Good video.
He was going to use the press, but since he couldn't and just ended up renting the ball joint presser tool, you don't actually have to remove the brakes, you can just remove the lug nut, pull the outer half of the cv axle out, and then pop the ball joint where that is. No need to remove the knuckle or anything, although you need to support the brakes and knuckle with a jack and wood or the brake and abs lines will be damaged during manipulation of the ball joint presser tool. But saves you quite a bit of time leaving the wheel mostly intact and ON the car.
Have to do this job soon. thanks for this video. Great job.
Thank you. I came here just to see how to setup the tool. I did one side a year ago, and couldn’t remember how i got it out. After seeing you use the socket i remembered.
Nice good see you!
Nathan great video! And a tip for you, never use a screw driver to pry a caliper open against the brake pads! You will chip and do damage to them! A large C clamp is your best option!🤓
Put the knuckle on the strut base first, then press down on the control arm with your pry bar and get your ball joint stud through. Save fighting with the sway bar link and more frustration with the base of the strut getting stuck crooked in the knuckle.
Good idea~! Thanks!
I had to do mine this way as well
Good job. You helped me with my s plugs and wires Ty.
video starts at 13:00, leave the strut on the spindle, alot easier to remove top strut. Just 3 13mm nuts and then sway bar link too.
Amazing comment!!~~!!~!~
Great video Nathan. Nice to see a video for this since the service manual states "ball joint not serviceable." I see you added the Sable to your tags. Please also add Lincoln Continental as this is the same for that car and I only happened to know that it is based on the Taurus; others probably won't.
good job thank you so much pleas make more videos
The ball joint seperator is a wise investment as welll as tie rod remover pickle fork Air hammer etc
O my aching back!
If you need more room or can't get the LCA low enough, loosen the front subframe bolts a little and lower it down 3/4 to 1 inch.
True. The subframe is not to bad to remove or lower some.
good job nathan best video I 've seen on this repair
Thanks man!
Holy crap you made this look way easier then when I did it LOL wish I would’ve found this video before I did mine
Going on day 3 for me
Goodyear wanted 650 for both on the same car summer 2020. Thanks for the video
;D
Good video thank you
Thanks!~
Hey buddy I just put a new strut in cv axle on the right front passenger side, in now when I turn it seems like my tires are about to pop off,any tips sir
Great vid!! Mechanic told me I need to replace 2 ball joints but wasn't specific. How many ball joints come on this vehicle?
Great tips and thx for the video and such
Yea!!!
Beautiful in this white color. Love it!
Freakin awesome, made so simple !
Its always sunny on a day like today!
kool thank you
Something I did, that might help people. I couldn't put the ball joint into the hole then try to get the strut into it's hole. I had to get axle and strut where they needed to be, make sure axle nut is a few turns on, then push down on control arm and move hub into place for ball joint to fall into hole. I couldn't get enough clearance to do it strut last because of subframe blocking control arm from going down enough. lol I bet I looked funny doing that, but it worked. Also, make sure tie rod and sway link are off so you have more maneuverability with hub.
I have a 2002 Ford Taurus that was purchased in 2003
great job
I couldn’t get the punch bolt off for the life of me. Got it like 2 inches out and it was still really really tight. Any suggestions on how I should go about taking the pinch bolt off?
Beat it like it was with your wife!!
Sway bar links often go bad on Taurus also. You can usually find fairly new ones in a you pull it type junk yard.
Nice! I love junk yards...
Check Lloyd Nation’s video. He has the OTC part number of the special tool for a Taurus/Sable ball joint. I rented it at Auto Zone. Worked great on the car.
muy buen trabajo amigo gracias
Just found out that I need ball joints on my car should I replace both of them at the same time
I know it's late but yes lol
Have you ever replaced the axels ? I'm going to be doing that soon. I've seen plenty of videos on how to do that, so I think I can use those. I was just wondering it you have a video showing how to do it. I have a 2002 Taurus.
Please post vid when you are done, or during. I have can 02 as well
Why are you replacing the axles?
@@bentnickel7487 There is a disturbing crackling sound coming from that area of the vehicle when making sharp turns. I make as wide a turn that I can now to avoid further damage. I didn't know what it was until I did some research . I think that it's also affecting the front disc rotors. The rotors were warping, so I had them resurfaced. But the problem reoccurred, so I replaced the rotors with new slotted ones to help cool them. I thought that they were getting to hot, and causing them to warp. The new rotors could possibly be damaged now because of the bad axels. There is a subtle but sure shudder while braking, so I start braking with plenty of time before I actually stop. I won't know if the rotors need to be resurfaced until after I have change out the axels, and while I'm there, change the steering linkages and control arm bushings. I have already replaced the wheel bearings. And then a realignment. Fun times.
@@realjaxon I think buying another Taurus would be cheaper than repairing. You can find a 2007 on Craigslist for less than 2000 dollars. I'm on my 3rd Taurus. I love 'em. Easy to work on. The 3L OHV is my favorite. Will go 300K if cared for.
@@bentnickel7487 I have been out of work since November of 2019, so buying another car isn't an option at this time. The parts are fairly inexpensive. New axels can be found for around $150. That '07 sure sounds good though. I have a DOHC 3.0L.
Exelente video tanks saludes
The stud goes thru the hole in the clamp and the screw goes thru the strut mounting opening.
Yea.
Good video.
How long did it actually take you from start to finish?
Close to 3 hrs.
Nathan Rohrbough : Wow.
Was not expecting you to say that.
Now that you've done it once,I'm sure you could do it quicker next time.
Idk
29 mm is correct. Did struts yesterday and loosened CV nut.
;D
good job!!!
Thanks!
one note though,is it not best to break the axle bolt with the tire still on and still on the ground? (I've always done my cars this way to avoid putting any unneeded stress on the axle.) otherwise very good video though.
You are sooooo right!~ Its easier to do t that way!~~
Why is everything I ever have to change the most intense challenge I've ever encountered in my entire life?
Parallel universe.
Whoever designed the 2000 Taurus is my sworn enemy
Thank You!!!
Thank You!!!
best way to get steering knuckle back on without removing upper sway bar link. install knuckle onto strut while using pry bar to pry lower control arm down. then insert axle. install axle nut but do not tighten. again pry bar lower control arm down, insert ball joint shaft into lower control arm. reinstall outer tie rod and other components such as pinch bolt, nut, tie rod nut, ball joint nut, etc...
Good Tips!!
Soon to be doing this on a 2002 Sable for church sister.
Great!
Hey Nathan, is there any reason you should remove the assembly instead of just releasing the ball joint once you get the joint out of the lower suspension? Seems to me you'd have an easier time pressing out the joint while the unit is attached. It seems a manual ball joint press will have ample space to fit in there even while the unit is attached. I am interested because I will also be changing out the ball joints on my 2000 Taurus once the weather warms up! The driver's side joint is extremely squeaky when turning and any time the car hits a bump. Quite a bit of play when the car is jacked up, too. Any advice would be great!
Yes you could....If you can get a press tool of some kind in there, The strut housing is really close and gives less room. Perhaps someone has a way to do it as you expressed.
There is at least one video of it done that way. But you do still have to get the axle out, which seems trickier without removing anything else, but still possible. I am going to attempt to tackle it this way since I'm still flexible enough to do the pressing work while laying under the car, but if I run into any headaches I'm glad I've watched a few of these and know most of the techniques I want to use for a further disassembly. So my plan is:
Axle nut loosening while tire still on ground if there is a center cap I can remove (should reduce strain on parking pawl compared to hitting that nut after removing the wheel)
Lift and Remove wheel/tire
Remove ball joint nut and separate from lower control arm with pickle fork
Remove axle nut and washer, and attempt to separate axle from knuckle without further disassembly
If all goes well to that point, I should be able to get the press tool in there to remove the old one and install the new one. One trick for that press tool was to simply cut most of the swivel part of the old one shorter with a cutoff tool, so the deep cup can be used without needing to put a socket over the ball joint threads. So I'll have my cutoff tool handy in case I want to do that.
Thank you for using hand tools.
My hands show it today....ouch...
All the ball joints for sale do not have a grease fitting. They come pregreased but I read somewhere that it’s not enough and it must be greased some more. Is that true?
Looks like it
Nice video, side note looks like inner tie rods are about shot as well
Replaced later
What about the cotter pin?
How long did it take you to replace that ball joint?
2.5 Hrs on a slow day with no energy...lol
@@FixingWithPassion I am in the process of you doing my ball joint on my 97 ford Taurus
Excellence!
Hey I have an 01 taurus and I'm gonna be doing the outer tierods and the lower ball joints sometime next week, any tips for the tierods?
Just smack them with a big hammer when you get the nut off....and mesure the distance of the ld tie rod ends from the hold down nut....so you will have a reference for the new ones. Hopefully it still will be pretty close to aliment.
TVWXMAN32 nice any chance you would know how to get the heat,ac stuck off of default setting ( floor and defrost)
Blend door ...Heater Blend Door Actuator, either the motor is bad or the actuator is stuck. I have to look at a 2005 ford focus...it has the same issue...Video soon (when I get time) ;)
+Kyle Barstow check under the hood just below the windshield on the passenger side for a tiny vacuum lines. lines come out and causing defrost only.
TVWXMAN32 i have no heat. Air blows cold out the vents. If car is hot enough itll blow warm air for a not that long then go back to cold. And i have a egr valve insufficient flow problem something eating up my gas it burns out too quickly
Tahanke SON- Thank you
Don't take the caliper apart. Just remove the bracket bolts and take it off as a unit.
Maybe a impact would help
What if I forgot to put my snap ring on before? Can I do it after or do I got to start over. I fucked up
Where is u located at and how much do you charge
Good video, but you must remove the top sway bar link. It is not good to try and remove that knuckle with that sway bar link attached you will definitely damage it. Also when putting the spindle back onto the bottom of the strut always throw a little season cream with a brush and get it in there good and the same thing on the bottom of the strut, and before you do that going there with a wide brush and clean it up real good it will slide right on like butter
Took me 12 hours to change out both ball joints. Every single step there was a problem
O my!!
Will be working on 2 of these pains in the ass in about 1 hour on a 2000 Ford Taurus. Have to also install both end links.
Its not to bad too install...Take our time...Grab a cold one...and play music and all is good!
Already ran into a big problem, the pinch pin bolt is like welded in there and won't come out.
Sprayed the shit out of it with PB Blaster and it's been soaking for over 24 hours. I've tried pounding the shit out of it. I've used a air hammer. Impacting it until I broke 2 sockets. Never had anything stuck like this in my life, been working on cars since I was 15 years old.
I went and bought new sockets and also a Bernzomatic TS8000KC Premium Torch Kit.
That fucker is going to come out now dammit or I going to blow it up j/k hahahaha
nun ya ....Use a breaker bar?? If not get a small propane torch and heat it up. It's gotta break loose sooner or later.
hahah..me too! Get a propane torch..heat up the part that the threads go into. Hit with some penetrating fluid. Heat it up again..(you should hear some crinkling noise) as the bolt breaks free, ....then it comes right out!! Good luck and dont break it!!
Oh..if you are planning to do your struts soon, now is the time. You will have to take this all apart again or go through the misery of trying fit the strut into the cup by prying down the control arm against the subframe. It is a god awful bitch unless you lower the subframe.
I know right....Do it all now if you can ;)
Did you use a torque bar for the axle nut ball joint nut and the pinch Bolt & Nut also did you replace the axle nut with a new one because some places I read when you take the axle nut off it's good to replace it with a new one
Yea I did
Nathan Rohrbough I have everything off. now I'm down to trying to remove the ball joint and it won't come out even with a pickle fork so what would your advice be on getting this out
Hammer Time! Yep you'll have to beat the crap out of it. Hit it
sideways. I hade to do a Explorer the same way last week. ugh...
Nathan Rohrbough well I finally got that S. O. B out this morning. So now the task of getting the old ball joint out and the new one in
Ok, now for the ball joint...use tool removal form the parts store. Have cold beer on the side!
Hey I thought my jack was old also the clip is a snap ring
Ha ha. Snap ring....my brain fart ;)
That ball joint was about to let loose.
Right!!
Does this apply for mercury sable??
IAM DIRTY GOD Yes. Same car just more luxury.
I cannot for the life of me get the lower control arm off of the thread. I used a pickle fork and a pry bar. And doused it in penetrating oil. Tried to pry it off for hours. Might there be a bushing? Any suggestions?
No. Mine was a PITA to get off also! I used a big hammer...not quite a sledge hammer and just kept hitting it until it came off. You might try some heat with a propane torch that might aloa loosen it up.
Is there any torque spec for the axle but?
nut*
I had to remove the control arm and cut the ball joint out.
No!!!!!
Я проще делал, без инструмента. При снятии шаровой грел ступицу, легко выбить её. Когда ставил, новую шаровую опору ложил в морозильную камеру. И легко вставлял.
Cool!
Да, холодный, замерзший. При остывании тела сужаются. Без пресса легко вставляется на своё место.
It's a two piece rental kit they didn't give you the other part of the kit
Yea I found out later ;(
Nice Tarus I have a 01 wagon with the 215 HP v6 plus it will out live the owner.
Do the wagons have good power with the longer body and weight? Never own one.
TVWXMAN32 Well it has the duratec 24 valve dual overhead cam V6 instead of the Vulcan V6 not as much horsepower It's the SES.
Thanks!
Dude that's tie rod end was totally worn out
All got replaced!
And the inner
But you said it was good
That tie rod was junk if you can wiggle the ends like that. Best thing to do in this scenero is replace it all. Most kits are like $40 for all of it from Detroit Axle.
yes, the tie rod shouldnt move at all
Never could get the a-arm low enough to clear the ball joint.
O no!
Dealing with this now... going to try and put the ball joint in first and then try and connect the strut. Thought I was smart putting it all together but I just cannot get the a-arm to bend low enough. Some other video I watched is doing it the way we tried to and he somehow got it to clear!
are you a carpenter?? with that claw hammer, use a vice to hold the ball joint press,
PLEASE EXPLAIN TO ME WHY YOU JUST DIDN'T TAKE THE TWO BOLTS FOR THE CALIPER BRACKET AND REMOVE THEM TOGETHER AND YOU WOULDN'T HAVE TO REMOVE THEM SEPARATELY. IT'S SO MUCH EASIER
BECAUSE I'M DOING THE JOB MY WAY. ITS BETTER THIS WAY FOR ME.
@@FixingWithPassion yeah but you're doing the video for other people not for you, what did you forget that. Also there's an easier way to install the bottom of the strut back into the knuckle, but I know you do it your way but yet you're making a video for other people.
Your reply makes no sense like most UA-cam videos.
Buy a lithium ion impact gun, saves a bunch of time and energy.
OK!
man that car is carrying some rust... :)
You should see Ohio cars...lol Mine is mint to some of them ;D
@@FixingWithPassion I got lucky with mine from Alabama!!! lol! No rust.....
the easiest way to remove a balljoint if you're stuck is by cutting w/sawzall. that's what i did. goo.gl/y3oiJ7 you could try to heat the housing under the control arm red hot & than the pickle fork would work. it's my theory. if you put the new balljoint in the freezer the night before than pressing it in is much easier. the machine shop & the dealer first presses out the bearing than uses a right angle adapter in the press for the job. without this video i would'nt try to do the job. it was very helpful.
Thanks, for the advice. Even I learn stuff....haha
i cannot get the bottom ball joint for the life of me i had to drill it out and tap a new hole
Use jack stands geez teach safety fitted
Thats a small kit? You should see the one they gave me. Like 5 pieces. Doesnt even work for my car. Fucking pissed. and it Took me 3 hours to get the knuckle off.
that brake hose doesn't look too healthy. it looks collapsed and kinked. dangerous.
You call yourself a mechanic that tie rod end is garbage should not move that easy you have to force it to move it if it was good it would be a lot stiffer you would not be able to wiggle it that easy
As long as there no "play" in the movement its ok. Excessive play is a different story. That tie rod end just looked bad because I can move it. You have to feel them for slack/play. It was probably getting close to being replaced. New ones are stiffer to move but i can still move them also with my hands most of the time. There was no play in the steering or even a rattle! Car drove perfect for a year while I owned it!... -thanks for watching.