This is the best video I've ever seen on how to put a ball joint in. Most videos don't show the exact procedure. They show bits and pieces. This video shows the whole procedure. Thanks for a fantastic video! I finally got to see how it's done. Very happy. Finally someone who has the proper light on the subject. It's done professionally. Down to every detail.
Good vid. I hate the ones that spend a bunch of useless time doing nothing. This one was to-the-point and covered the main points. Actually, I'm currently half-way through the same job, replacing the lower ball joint on a Lincoln Town Car 2001. I don't have a press or a ball joint replacement tool as in the vid, and I'm trying to do the job without one.
Thanks for the video. One difference: on my '87 RWD F-150 the caliper was held on by two wedge pins that needed to be driven out, instead of bolts. The big castle nut required a 1 1/8" socket or wrench- not everyone has one of these in a standard socket set. . The lug nuts we 13/16". Hammer blows would not release the tie rod end or all joint assembly- I needed to use a pickle fork. Penetrating oil used throughout the process was a big help. My cheap impact wrench was mostly successful in driving in/out the ball joints with the press kit, but I also used a socket with breaker bar for leverage. Overall I agree that with a press kit and standard tools a layman can do it, but now having done the job I appreciate all the work that a professional like yourself puts into getting the job done. Thanks again for the instruction.
This really is a well done video. I like that there is no long down time, and he explains everything rather well. The only thing I suggest is if you are doing it at home and your mileage is up there, and this being the first time you LBJ is being done, spend the extra money and do the uppers as well!! I had my Chrysler's LBJ replaced only to have the upper go bad within 2k miles. It is only a few bucks more and makes sense to do it then. My only other suggestion would be to make sure you follow torque specs in the manual.
This is the guy that all the other techs ask questions to all day long. Smart guy I can see young people in his shop learning a lot and the proper way to do things.
I would love to work with this ASE mechanic owner. Sorry if I do not know your name. You seem very humble, Honest and patient person. I have been a shop mechanic in the past and the other mechanics were always arguing and making mistakes. It was no wonder why I was the longest lasting auto technician when all the others were fired. If only, was I smart, worked at another shop then would have stayed in the field. BTW, I bet you have a great customer base to keep you going all the time.
I did all the joints upper and lower on my 1 ton E350, they wanted $1100 to do the job, all 4 joints cost me less than $300 and autozone has the free loner tool with good directions its not hard, be careful of the long caliper retainer bolts, very low torque, they are so long if you crank on them they will twist and snap easily, the parts place said everyone breaks them the first time. Its a nice project to gain experience wrenching. Power tools not needed but breaker bar is , plus a pipe to slip over the end to extend leverage if required.
RFRF, Thanks for a very informing how-to vid, very well done. For a split second you jolted my thought when you said 'beveled', I knew you were meaning 'the taper' (conical) portion was the only point of interference. 122618.
I've had the HARDEST TIME finding someone who works on that vintage pick up! Great video. If you have more vids for that type of pick up, I'd love to view them. Much appreciated and great video!!!!
Great Video. Thank you for posting this. I have been familiar with GM products for decades, but just bought a mid-90's E-150 that is going to need ball joints. The boots are shot, so I know it will be only a short time before they get loose.
thank u sir, u are very awsome man ,teaching step by step, u are saving my cost. now i be able to do that, but i dont have any special tool yet. thank u so much sir, god bless u all
Castle nuts have been used for ages on all makes and models of cars and other equipment.They are designed to be tightened as the movie shows. The point of the cuts in the nut and the use of the cotter pin is so the nut can't turn or un-tighten.It's a safety measure.
dude you rock best video on the net. one last thing, to the people telling you what you need to do or not to do, or what they do, get your own videos out there. this guy sure don't need your help. Thanks my friend
Wouldn't it be a good idea to change out that upper ball joint at the same time, since you already had it all apart? The one that the esentric went over.
great job but I have some tips to ad to this video,when u get to the point where u need to press the new ball joint use some grease to ease up the installation, also some cars have a tiny drilled hole into the mounting frame and on the ball joint u should pay close attention and make sure they're aligned before pressing, reason behind it is when come time to grease the chassis, grease get to the joint, finally always clean up the area u are working on and use anti seize paste on bolts and studs.
@sweetlikeADAM I agree. All you have to do on a 1994 3/4 ton Chevy, for example, is put a compressor on the spring to keep it from flying out at you. Then take the castle nut loose, and take your press and push that sucker out.
@giannial1985 True, In all likeley hood it is the ball joints, but to best diagnose it, its best to lift the vehicle off the ground a few inches, like in this video, iff you see movement within the joint its worn, some joints also have a grease fitting, the should be regreased at every service interval, if you have any play in your wheels when rocking them from side to side you should also get your wheel bearings checked.
Great video. It is to the point. However, if i may, if you do something like this in the future, can you inform your viewers of the sizes of the tools that you use along the way. For example, "we used a 1 1/8ths inch wrench to remove this castle nut".
Thats what makes my job difficult at times while being a mobile mechanic. The ball joints are in so tight, that no normal use of tools in the field work. I have to take it to a shop, where the owner charges me to use the press. The force used to make the ball joints come out..is very explsive! They come out with a BANG! hard on the hearing. The part often flies down or away from the press. I think next time, put a rag over the ball joints.
Just wondering if there are any torque specs on any of the assembled parts? I have 4wd so of course I have to also remove my hub assembly and axel shaft as well. Thanks for the video
Advance Auto will loan you a ball joint press for free... make sure you get the 4WD ball joint press, its heavy duty and gives you all of the cups and press plates. You will need a two foot breaker bar to press in and out the ball joints. I ordered Federal Moog joints with grease fittings was a breeze to replace both sides took a little over 3 hours for uppers and lowers and installong a new steering dampener
While you were doing the lower balljoint ...why didn't you replace the top? It's a 1994 and while it was out I would of did the top also. Great vid. Should invest in some rust penetrate. It makes it a little easier. What ball joint kit do you have? Also I have the same chisel gun and it's a good one.
J- Styga It's a Moog ball joint. You can see the box it came in at about the 6:20 mark. Personally, I don't think Moog is all that great, but they are better than Duralast and Valucraft. But in my experience, NOTHING beats OEM parts.
SWEET VIDEO! I like how there's no extra BS in this clip! Very informative! I do have a question though, I have a 78 Bronco 4x4, is the procedure the same for doing the upper and lower ball joints as this truck was?
Well done video, but I still have two questions: Do you put any grease on the ball joint or spindle hole to ease the process of inserting the ball joint, and reducing wear? The replacement ball joints have spindles that are angled, i.e., not 90 degrees to the body of the ball joint; how do you orient the ball joint so the spindle is angled properly after insertion? Thanks!
most ball joints will come with grease certs for grease, if they are permanently packed, there will not be grease certs. I'm not following you on the spindles
while doing the ball joint replacement,whats keeping the spring from flying out,is it just the shock absorber keeping it from coming out,and if so wouldn't it be a good idea to put a screw jack under the arm for safety?
great video... just 1 issue??? why not do the upper ball joint why you had it out? that is what I and many others would have done!!!! other than that great video, thanks.
@kimcheefists Same steps. Grab the top and bottom of the tire, and try to move it. If there is any play at all in it, have someone take a peek while you're shaking it, to see where the movement is coming from. Likewise to check the tie rod ends, you grab the tire side to side, and try to shake it.
I have an 83 F150 2wd. I just changed out my driver side upper and lowers. I noticed in this video the setup is similar to mine, but, my ball joints went into the ttb instead of the knuckle. I need to find out if that is the original ttb.
ive noticed how the wheel was tilted out, how would you fix that. You might say camber adjustment but my vehicle doesnt have adjustment for the camber. Its a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3. My wheel is the same way and it drives me crazy.
This is the best video I've ever seen on how to put a ball joint in. Most videos don't show the exact procedure. They show bits and pieces. This video shows the whole procedure. Thanks for a fantastic video! I finally got to see how it's done. Very happy. Finally someone who has the proper light on the subject. It's done professionally. Down to every detail.
This mechanic went to all the basic steps. Spoke nothing more nothing less. Good Job!! A mechanic shop that I would like to take my truck to be fixed.
Thank you for this video! I've just purchased a '92 F150 Custom that needs this work done.
The best repair video i have watched so far no bull good lighting Great ford!!!!! THANKS
I love when explanations are done right,not 50 vids to get to the point like others do. good job guys.
Probably one of the best videio I have seen, great explainations on how to complete the job. Thank you
It never goes this smooth in my driveway. You guys make it look so easy. Keep up the good work.
Good vid. I hate the ones that spend a bunch of useless time doing nothing. This one was to-the-point and covered the main points.
Actually, I'm currently half-way through the same job, replacing the lower ball joint on a Lincoln Town Car 2001. I don't have a press or a ball joint replacement tool as in the vid, and I'm trying to do the job without one.
You are the best thanks for the video. They won't do an alignment on my 95 until this is done for $799 including alignment and tie rod ends.
Thanks for the video. One difference: on my '87 RWD F-150 the caliper was held on by two wedge pins that needed to be driven out, instead of bolts. The big castle nut required a 1 1/8" socket or wrench- not everyone has one of these in a standard socket set. . The lug nuts we 13/16". Hammer blows would not release the tie rod end or all joint assembly- I needed to use a pickle fork. Penetrating oil used throughout the process was a big help. My cheap impact wrench was mostly successful in driving in/out the ball joints with the press kit, but I also used a socket with breaker bar for leverage. Overall I agree that with a press kit and standard tools a layman can do it, but now having done the job I appreciate all the work that a professional like yourself puts into getting the job done. Thanks again for the instruction.
I love this guy he went straight to the point
This really is a well done video. I like that there is no long down time, and he explains everything rather well.
The only thing I suggest is if you are doing it at home and your mileage is up there, and this being the first time you LBJ is being done, spend the extra money and do the uppers as well!! I had my Chrysler's LBJ replaced only to have the upper go bad within 2k miles. It is only a few bucks more and makes sense to do it then.
My only other suggestion would be to make sure you follow torque specs in the manual.
This is the guy that all the other techs ask questions to all day long. Smart guy I can see young people in his shop learning a lot and the proper way to do things.
Thanks for the great vid brother! No bull crap, no small talk, or promotions. Straight up work, how these videos should be. Keep it up!
Thanks, I appreciate you taking the time to comment
Good video. Thanks to this, my 97 Ford F250HD has new ball joints without giving all my money to some shop.
I would love to work with this ASE mechanic owner. Sorry if I do not know your name. You seem very humble, Honest and patient person. I have been a shop mechanic in the past and the other mechanics were always arguing and making mistakes. It was no wonder why I was the longest lasting auto technician when all the others were fired. If only, was I smart, worked at another shop then would have stayed in the field. BTW, I bet you have a great customer base to keep you going all the time.
can't thank you guys enough for sharing the expertise.
Thank you for taking the time to do this. I really appreciate it
I did all the joints upper and lower on my 1 ton E350, they wanted $1100 to do the job, all 4 joints cost me less than $300 and autozone has the free loner tool with good directions its not hard, be careful of the long caliper retainer bolts, very low torque, they are so long if you crank on them they will twist and snap easily, the parts place said everyone breaks them the first time.
Its a nice project to gain experience wrenching.
Power tools not needed but breaker bar is ,
plus a pipe to slip over the end to extend leverage if required.
Great job ,love that impact gun and the lift. very well explained the procedures to get it done. thank you
proper pro job lad.you can tell just how you handle your tools your a pro.
great video.you make it look so easy.
RFRF, Thanks for a very informing how-to vid, very well done. For a split second you jolted my thought when you said 'beveled', I knew you were meaning 'the taper' (conical) portion was the only point of interference. 122618.
I've had the HARDEST TIME finding someone who works on that vintage pick up! Great video. If you have more vids for that type of pick up, I'd love to view them. Much appreciated and great video!!!!
Excellent video, great job, thank you for sharing!
Great Video. Thank you for posting this. I have been familiar with GM products for decades, but just bought a mid-90's E-150 that is going to need ball joints. The boots are shot, so I know it will be only a short time before they get loose.
wtb old guy mechanic who makes everything looks easy
thank u sir, u are very awsome man ,teaching step by step, u are saving my cost. now i be able to do that, but i dont have any special tool yet. thank u so much sir, god bless u all
Castle nuts have been used for ages on all makes and models of cars and other equipment.They are designed to be tightened as the movie shows. The point of the cuts in the nut and the use of the cotter pin is so the nut can't turn or un-tighten.It's a safety measure.
dude you rock best video on the net. one last thing, to the people telling you what you need to do or not to do, or what they do, get your own videos out there. this guy sure don't need your help. Thanks my friend
great video, I like the diag. thrown in at the beginning
Wouldn't it be a good idea to change out that upper ball joint at the same time, since you already had it all apart? The one that the esentric went over.
Thank you, great video. You got right to the point and kept it simple.
great vid, One thing. If you live in the rust belt, antisieze on the alignment cams and the upper pinch bolt. just a tip.
Great video thanks! Do you have a video on top and bottom ball joints on a F150/Bronco 4WD? thanks again
Great video! Great camera veiw for veiwing. Good instruction as well. Thank you much. I say five star for me.
Great video, angles and description!
great job but I have some tips to ad to this video,when u get to the point where u need to press the new ball joint use some grease to ease up the installation, also some cars have a tiny drilled hole into the mounting frame and on the ball joint u should pay close attention and make sure they're aligned before pressing, reason behind it is when come time to grease the chassis, grease get to the joint, finally always clean up the area u are working on and use anti seize paste on bolts and studs.
A true pro at work here!
@sweetlikeADAM
I agree. All you have to do on a 1994 3/4 ton Chevy, for example, is put a compressor on the spring to keep it from flying out at you. Then take the castle nut loose, and take your press and push that sucker out.
thanks...excellent instructional video. you have some the best, if not the best !!!
@giannial1985 True, In all likeley hood it is the ball joints, but to best diagnose it, its best to lift the vehicle off the ground a few inches, like in this video, iff you see movement within the joint its worn, some joints also have a grease fitting, the should be regreased at every service interval, if you have any play in your wheels when rocking them from side to side you should also get your wheel bearings checked.
Great video. It is to the point. However, if i may, if you do something like this in the future, can you inform your viewers of the sizes of the tools that you use along the way. For example, "we used a 1 1/8ths inch wrench to remove this castle nut".
Thats what makes my job difficult at times while being a mobile mechanic. The ball joints are in so tight, that no normal use of tools in the field work. I have to take it to a shop, where the owner charges me to use the press. The force used to make the ball joints come out..is very explsive! They come out with a BANG! hard on the hearing. The part often flies down or away from the press. I think next time, put a rag over the ball joints.
Just wondering if there are any torque specs on any of the assembled parts? I have 4wd so of course I have to also remove my hub assembly and axel shaft as well. Thanks for the video
Very good tutorial. Thanks
Makes it look so easy. Great video
Excellent video!
Excellent teacher video
That was Amazing! Thank you for the education!
It's better information so I don't have to get someone to do it, thanks very much
Advance Auto will loan you a ball joint press for free... make sure you get the 4WD ball joint press, its heavy duty and gives you all of the cups and press plates. You will need a two foot breaker bar to press in and out the ball joints. I ordered Federal Moog joints with grease fittings was a breeze to replace both sides took a little over 3 hours for uppers and lowers and installong a new steering dampener
Well done, guys.
While you were doing the lower balljoint ...why didn't you replace the top? It's a 1994 and while it was out I would of did the top also. Great vid. Should invest in some rust penetrate. It makes it a little easier. What ball joint kit do you have? Also I have the same chisel gun and it's a good one.
J- Styga It's a Moog ball joint. You can see the box it came in at about the 6:20 mark. Personally, I don't think Moog is all that great, but they are better than Duralast and Valucraft. But in my experience, NOTHING beats OEM parts.
yes because you will have to take the knuckle off and the camber adjustment is in the upper ball joint bushing
SWEET VIDEO! I like how there's no extra BS in this clip! Very informative!
I do have a question though, I have a 78 Bronco 4x4, is the procedure the same for doing the upper and lower ball joints as this truck was?
Great and thorough step by step
Exelente demostracion Compa.
Well done video, but I still have two questions:
Do you put any grease on the ball joint or spindle hole to ease the process of inserting the ball joint, and reducing wear?
The replacement ball joints have spindles that are angled, i.e., not 90 degrees to the body of the ball joint; how do you orient the ball joint so the spindle is angled properly after insertion?
Thanks!
most ball joints will come with grease certs for grease, if they are permanently packed, there will not be grease certs. I'm not following you on the spindles
@@mercykidssprgeducationchan4237 Thanks for your reply. Got it figured out.
@Jerkwad152 That's good. On Hondas, all you need to do is take out the castle nut, and press it out...
Great video.
Great video pleasure to watch, just wish i could get my tie rod off to move all out the way
great video! but one thing - i did not see him put any grease into the new ball-joint
I just want to big up whoever edits your vids. So many Yt vids dawdle along showing you the bleedin' obvious. Your ones are always tight.
while doing the ball joint replacement,whats keeping the spring from flying out,is it just the shock absorber keeping it from coming out,and if so wouldn't it be a good idea to put a screw jack under the arm for safety?
The shocks and suspension control arms are limiting the downward movement of the suspension. There's no chance of the spring flying out.
great video... just 1 issue??? why not do the upper ball joint why you had it out? that is what I and many others would have done!!!! other than that great video, thanks.
good work
Greate video, thanks for sharing.
When replacing the lower ball joints on these fords With the I beam suspension,replace the upper at the same time.Do it right the first time
nice video and information. thanks sr.
Excellent video. Thanks.
Doing ball joints on 94 2wd f150 with the u shaped knuckle. Do I need to take the snap ring off the lower,can't get it to bust free??help pls
muy bien te felicito gracias desde monterrey mexico
@kimcheefists Same steps. Grab the top and bottom of the tire, and try to move it. If there is any play at all in it, have someone take a peek while you're shaking it, to see where the movement is coming from. Likewise to check the tie rod ends, you grab the tire side to side, and try to shake it.
we have an 01 ranger that had a bad ball joint was inda expensive, now i know why. its a 4 wheel drive though, so an alighnment was needed too!
I have an 83 F150 2wd. I just changed out my driver side upper and lowers. I noticed in this video the setup is similar to mine, but, my ball joints went into the ttb instead of the knuckle. I need to find out if that is the original ttb.
Professional!!! Great Job!!!
great job on the video!!!! VERY informative!!
ive noticed how the wheel was tilted out, how would you fix that. You might say camber adjustment but my vehicle doesnt have adjustment for the camber. Its a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3. My wheel is the same way and it drives me crazy.
Cool!!! Thank you so much,, nice video
THANKS GREAT VIDEO... I HELPS A LOT
everyone would like to know why you didn't do the upper ball joint...especially me...does is it not serviceable?
Thank you
The best online fixer uper vídeos.
How often do you have to grease those joints on a car?
would this same process work on the upper ball joint?
So how do you know which ball joint is bad? I only saw that the lower one was changed. What about the upper ball joint?
What about torques? Are there any I need to worry about?
Can you tell me if this is similar to replacing the ball joints in a 1997 F150 2wd?
hi, cracking ball joint press kit.
how much do they cost as had trouble with my honda ball joints.
dont get good kits like that here in the uk
Why the hell would you go thru all this & not replace the upper ball joint while it's apart???
@ManicMechanic007 it never goes easy for them either. they just edit all the hard working parts out and keep the final results.
Why use pb blaster if you don't have to? Just makes a mess....
As a rule of thumb if a inner tie rod cannot support itself isn't it considered bad?
nice
one thing never pad slap rotors other than that good job
@MrRichierich1990 haha same here, my 01 ranger needed all 4 ball joints replaced as well as a wheel hub. im still poor cause of that!
Is an alignment needed after this job?
I would nave replced the top ball joint too !! ---$30 now ---or have to do the whole job in a year or so
we have the same mac air ratchet.
@giannial1985 check your front anto roll bushings and rear sway bar bushings
@dougfoor That's because you're a rookie..It's all about technique!