Mercedes 107 SL engine mounts, subframe mounts, cam bolts
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2020
- This is a detailed video showing how to reassemble the subframe on a Mercedes 107 SL. The video gives all the part numbers and costs and includes tips on how to overcome some of the problems you might encounter during assembly.
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It’s looking really good. Having done much the same to my 560SL, I can say the improvements in ride and handling made all the effort worthwhile. 👍
When you are referring to 'we' I was hoping you had a little mouse in your pocket that you could eventually teach to hold your camera for you.😄
Great shiny work, I enjoy following along
Fantastic
Perfekt job 👍🏻🤞
Thank you! A big difference and worth all the effort and cost. Mike
Thanks for your video! Very clear. Do you know the torque for the 2 hexe bolt, that are fixing the engine mount on the subframe ? I have looked your videos on the torque, and did not saw that information. Thanks
Thanks for your comment. I believe this is referred to as the "Frame floor-to-rubber mounting of suspension" and the torque is 45Nm. Mike
Mike, you're doing a fantastic job.
Are you tightening the bolts are per the factory specifications?
Thanks for your comment. Yes - all suspension and brake bolts are tightened to factory spec....I think the torque specs are given in the video. Mike
Hello Mike. Nice video. I did the same overhaul of my 280 SL from 1974 a year ago. I also want to change the rubber parts of the rear axle. Is it possible to do that without removing the coplete rear axle ?
Hi - I think it is, but I’m not 100% sure. I keep looking at the rusty rear axle and thinking I should get on and refurb the whole thing. Mike
You're right Mike! Engine mounts for the V8 are much cheaper!
Mike big fan can you tell me the best way to get the bolts to line up when replacing the rear subframe mounts. I can get the old mounts out of my 73 R 107 but seem to have a hard time lining up the bolt that look like a 50 caliber bullet. Do you need to have the rear wheels off the ground? Any suggestions would be appreciated
Hello - the video below covers getting the rear subframe attached:
ua-cam.com/video/wLISaxdlewo/v-deo.html
You can see from the video that when I did it, the wheels were off the car and the control arms were jacked up. I hope that is is helpful....there is even special mention in the video of how time consuming it was to line up those bolts. Mike
Mike I know when you were replacing the rear subframe mounts your rear sub frame was out of the car. However my R 107 has the subframe in the car I have removed and replaced the new mount but continue to struggle with alignment with the center bolt I have left everything in tact and thought I could just move the subframe up or down to align the center bolt but as you know the 50 caliber as I call it bolt needs to seat squarely the the body tube to catch the threads...any ideas would be appreciated by the way I think it is great that your daughter helps you work on the cars.
Sorry to read your are having problems. When bolts don't line up, here are two things I have tried in the past:
1. Get a long piece of dowel (wood) and put it through the bolt hole. If the dowel is just slightly smaller than the bolt, you might be able to feel where the 'non overlap' of the bolt holes is occuring. The tapered bolts wont help you with this. If the dowel goes easily through both holes, the angle of the dowel might give you a clue as to which way you need to jack/move the subframe to get both holes perpendicular.
2. When I was doing the front subframe, I found it helpful to use a long bit of threaded rod to align the subframe as it went on. Not sure if that method will help in your case - it depends on the gap between the subframe and the bracket....and possible the floor if your dont have a ramp.
Let me know how you go.
Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars mike I bought a long threaded rod and it goes straight in no problem I think the issue I am having is the angle is slightly off because as you know the actual bolt has a point on the end where the lo g bolt I have is flat and also the bolt is wider below the threads so in order to go in it has to be flush with the body pipe that comes down. Also I believe as I move the subframe higher the pipe comes down into the cavity where the mound is but the problem is seem to move out of center and on the other side if I lowered the subframe to the point where it seem to line up the bolt is about 1/4 inch to short.
@@sljgroup3229 OK...I see the problem. It might be a sledge hammer to crack a nut solution but....how about if you got hold of a rod the same width as the bolt and cut some threads on it? That might allow you to line everything up without the problem of your existing bolt being too short when everything is aligned. Alternatively, can you put two nuts on the threaded rod and use it to pull the subframe up to the car. Once is in place, you MIGHT find the original bolts will slot right on in. I do remember that getting those bolts took ages. Mike
Hello Mike. Is this a 1983 SL 280? Mercedes said I require PN 1072412113 mounts for mine (same year and engine) however you have 1072412513 which is for the later 300SL? Any help would be appreciated.
Hello - yes, the red SL is a 1983 280SL. It is a 5 speed manual but I don’t think that would make a difference. According to the link below for the 280SL both those part numbers apply to part 5 - the engine mount:
mb-teilekatalog.info/view_SubGroupAction.php?lang=E&mode=BM&class=1&aggtyp=FG&catalog=048&model=107042&group=24&subgrp=015
The only difference is one is “version M and the other is version “A” unfortunately, I’m not 100% sure what the different versions relate to. Maybe USA / Europe/Australia etc I bet your Mercedes dealer would know the answer....Hope that helps. Mike
You run the risk of hauling the rubber on the bushings face. Do the wishbone arms move freely when bolted upto spec?
Looking absolutely spotless rebuild so far!!
Hello and thanks for your comment. The upper control arms move freely. I wasn’t sure what you meant by “hauling” is that a typo? Mike
Mikes Mercs and other cars yea it a typo error
I meant to say galling. As the wishbone bushes from all the Mercedes I’ve had, (W140/124/210/ and W220) are such a interference fitting that it’s very difficult to get them seated properly! Even when you freeze the bush and heat up the steel wishbone! And it’s unavoidable galling them on pressing them in! As even the pro Mercedes guys I’ve talked to on the w210/211 E class wishbone they sand off the grip splines on the bushing to get it to fit!!! I really hope you don’t have any problems like that with this build! It’s easier to buy the full wishbone!! Which is mega expense!!!
Hope this helps bud!!!