I replaced my engine mounts, engine shocks and both front and rear subframe mounts in my 1987 560SL. I actually removed everything under the car including the entire suspension (control arms, tie rods, steering gearbox, etc), rear axles, hubs, differential, caliper pistons and so on. Every nut and bolt was either reconditioned or replaced with new genuine MB parts or NOS. I even changed the catalytic converter with NOS. It took me about 10 months to do it all in my garage without a lift. I’m currently rebuilding the engine from the crankshaft up. New MB rings, valves and so on. I started the engine rebuild in November 2021 and I’m still not finished. I was hoping to install the heads this past week, but some simple machine work I had done was faulty so I had to remove the front cover to fix what the machinist screwed up. I probably have over $15,000 in parts! The transmission is in California at Sun Valley Mercedes Transmissions for a complete rebuild. These cars are expensive to work on and the manuals are terrible. Oh yeah, you also need to purchase a lot of specialized tools that are not cheap. I’m not sure it will be worth it in the long run.
Thank You Pierre. The 107 service manual is extremely vague on this when it comes to checking the rubber mounts. Especially when the mounts are installed. Many opinions state that if you can spin the rubber buffer shown as part 2c in the manual then the bushing needs to be replaced. When I install a new set the rubber buffer will not spin. It will be tight against the mount. But 6 months later it will settle and there will be ~ 1/8" gap between the buffer and mount. In fact the cutaway picture in the manual shows it installed with a gap.
Thank you for providing valuable information on this job. Especially considering the safety concerns working with a loaded suspension and a power train suspension combination that can kill you if you are not informed. I did the subframe mounts on my W114. I had the luxury of a 2-post lift and it transformed the way the car drove.
When i was 19. I had a 220d /8 with subframe bushings so bad. The alignment would shift in a corner. Making the steering wheel crooked. Yanking the wheel to the opposite side of the previous corner would fix it. Im wiser now
I had this done on my 450SLC and it helped with the vague steering and the subframe mount stopped the grinding noise on cornering. I paid quite a bit for the genuine Mercedes motor mounts, but after 18 months they have already collapsed like they were uro parts. Had the little engine shock absorbers at the same time. I went with the genuine subframe mounts which hopefully lasts another 20 years. For some reason Mercedes discontinued the part number to buy everything required as a single part number and I had to buy each part number individually. Strange.
My 560sl was leaking in oil like a sive from the rt side of the motor for no apparent reason. Out of nowhere. Wtf! Never ever had any leak at all. Car did not leak oil ever!
Frankly, I'm old and tired of battling it with 3 mb. Parts r expensive and people r basically ripoffs. I'm old and can't do much anymore. Selling my cars. I've had enough of the liars.
The good thing about expensive parts, is you only but them once! So in the end, not expensive. Buying cheap parts is expensive, because you have to do the job again!
I replaced my engine mounts, engine shocks and both front and rear subframe mounts in my 1987 560SL. I actually removed everything under the car including the entire suspension (control arms, tie rods, steering gearbox, etc), rear axles, hubs, differential, caliper pistons and so on. Every nut and bolt was either reconditioned or replaced with new genuine MB parts or NOS. I even changed the catalytic converter with NOS. It took me about 10 months to do it all in my garage without a lift. I’m currently rebuilding the engine from the crankshaft up. New MB rings, valves and so on. I started the engine rebuild in November 2021 and I’m still not finished. I was hoping to install the heads this past week, but some simple machine work I had done was faulty so I had to remove the front cover to fix what the machinist screwed up. I probably have over $15,000 in parts! The transmission is in California at Sun Valley Mercedes Transmissions for a complete rebuild. These cars are expensive to work on and the manuals are terrible. Oh yeah, you also need to purchase a lot of specialized tools that are not cheap. I’m not sure it will be worth it in the long run.
Thank You Pierre. The 107 service manual is extremely vague on this when it comes to checking the rubber mounts. Especially when the mounts are installed. Many opinions state that if you can spin the rubber buffer shown as part 2c in the manual then the bushing needs to be replaced. When I install a new set the rubber buffer will not spin. It will be tight against the mount. But 6 months later it will settle and there will be ~ 1/8" gap between the buffer and mount. In fact the cutaway picture in the manual shows it installed with a gap.
Very good, Pierre.
Legend
Great topic Pierre! The cuts to the repair procedures are great!
Thank you for providing valuable information on this job. Especially considering the safety concerns working with a loaded suspension and a power train suspension combination that can kill you if you are not informed. I did the subframe mounts on my W114. I had the luxury of a 2-post lift and it transformed the way the car drove.
When i was 19. I had a 220d /8 with subframe bushings so bad. The alignment would shift in a corner. Making the steering wheel crooked. Yanking the wheel to the opposite side of the previous corner would fix it. Im wiser now
On w115 I just squeezed the subframe down with a two-meter lever, did not disconnect the shock absorbers )))
Mine sheared off. No help from Mercedes. Bought new subframe…. Mounts fitted too. So right what you say. Thanks for the videos
Very interesting!
Are the triangular gossets necessary on the rear arms to deter cracks if u have good motor mount and subframe mount?
Speaking for 380 sl
I had this done on my 450SLC and it helped with the vague steering and the subframe mount stopped the grinding noise on cornering. I paid quite a bit for the genuine Mercedes motor mounts, but after 18 months they have already collapsed like they were uro parts. Had the little engine shock absorbers at the same time. I went with the genuine subframe mounts which hopefully lasts another 20 years. For some reason Mercedes discontinued the part number to buy everything required as a single part number and I had to buy each part number individually. Strange.
URO does has supplied Mercedes in the past.
@@MrBobby3340 I would only use URO if there was no other option.
@@classicjalopy agree!
My 560sl was leaking in oil like a sive from the rt side of the motor for no apparent reason. Out of nowhere. Wtf! Never ever had any leak at all. Car did not leak oil ever!
Nothing a sexy as subframe mounts.
Frankly, I'm old and tired of battling it with 3 mb. Parts r expensive and people r basically ripoffs. I'm old and can't do much anymore. Selling my cars. I've had enough of the liars.
Too bad you won't have a diesel available in 6 months
@@allwinds3786 nope no diesels. Gas powered only. Diesel fuel headed way up. Unloading big motors and diesels soon!
The good thing about expensive parts, is you only but them once! So in the end, not expensive. Buying cheap parts is expensive, because you have to do the job again!
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻