Mercedes 107 SL subframe installation + torque specs
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- This is the final video in the series of how to remove and install the subframe on a Mercedes 107 SL. In this video we show how the subframe is installed and give a few useful tips which will hopefully save you time. A subscriber has pointed out the nuts which hold the sub frame mounts go flat side up and not flat side down as shown in the video and The SL Shop have confirmed this. I'm not sure how critical this is, as all the SL's I have ever worked on had the nuts flat side down.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I really enjoyed the entire series that you posted. It was outstanding and really helped me to get motivated and do some major work on my 87 560SL. Just one comment--perhaps the reason you had to "pad" your socket to get the bolt to thread with the retaining nut can be attributed to erroneously having the flat side down. If the flat side is up, the nut will be closer to the bottom and the bolt will reach the nut easily and fully engage with the threads. I guess it could work either way, but I prefer knowing the bolt has fully engaged with the retaining nut--and that would best occur with the nut down and the flat side up. Once again--great job and outstanding work!
Thanks for your kind comments. It is great that these videos are helpful...they can be very boring and tedious...unless of course you actually want to attempt the job yourself in which case the more detail the better. I am assuming that you didnt leave those nuts in with the flat side up? Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars I finished installing new subframe mounts on my 87 560SL yesterday. It only has 56,000 miles and only one of the mounts looked heavily worn, but they all were somewhat compressed. The car is all original and the retaining nuts were installed at the factory with the "flat side up, nut portion down". I installed the new ones in the same manner. The whole process went smoothly. I would never have attempted this job without much research, and your postings were extremely helpful. Many thanks again!! Regards, John D.
@@user-rn8zl5jh2c Thanks for your reply - you must be quite chuffed to have done this job yourself! Interesting about the orientation of the flat nuts...makes me wonder whether I put them in upside down! Whats your next job I wonder. Mike
Great tip using the guide “bolt”! That would save a lot of time and frustration. 👍
I have been following along with your videos and when you said let's put the wheels on and go for a ride I was thinking wow and felt excited for you to get to drive it after all of your hard work and time
Yep - it's great to get a car back on the road after some major work and this one runs really well. This SL has come along way since we pulled it out a field 3 years ago.....I still keep thinking about what to do with the 450SL that is still there. Mike
Good work and nice tips.. glad everything went well with the repairs!
Have you thought of having the exhaust manifold/downpipe ceramic coated? It reduces the engine bay temp by upto 30% and as it keeps the gasses hotter they flow better increasing performance and fuel economy! Albeit by a small amount! But do this and put in a electronic ignition system to replace the points/condenser ignition system. And again it adds power & economy! All these little things add up to a more reliable, efficient, and smoother engine. The Kugel fisher injection system is another thing well worth looking at!!
The outlet manifold o ring seals are a easy job to replace! And the injector nozzles are a good “home fix” job to tackle yourself! Take them out and sonic bath them replace the springs and they will transform the running of the engine!
I’m waffling in now sorry for this long winded rant! It’s looking great so far!!!
Hello - The trouble with restoring one part is that it leaves everything else looking shoddy and this is definitely the case with the manifold downpipe. I'll probably leave it as is for the moment. At present, I'm just waiting for some parts from Merc in Germany which should enable me to fix a small engine vacuum leak. That may or may not cure the cold start stumble issue and If not, I guess the next video will be about the warm up regulator. I have put electronic ignition into the Fiat500 and the eType Jag and plan to do so in the Pagoda but the ignition system on the 107's has always proved pretty reliable so I'll probably leave as is. As always thanks for your interest and comments. Mike
Mikes Mercs and other cars Do you have any local independent merc people in your area who can help you solve these issues? There’s a guy I use in Northumberland who helped me with parts and information on rebuilding my 1956 Mercedes 180 ponton. Him and his mechanics are spot on people his name is Walter Nuwcoup. He’s a Dutch man with a obsession with pre and post war mercs. His cut off era is mid 80s. He’s well worth consulting if you don’t have anyone near you! Even better if he gives you a tour of his collection!!
The videos are great would like to see the Pagoda build!!!
Fantastic
Nice video ! 👍 is it possible to change the engine mount without un mounting the subframe ?
Thanks for your comment. the honest answer is that I am not sure because I have only ever done it with the subframe dropped. A couple of people have asked this question so I may have a go at changing the engine mounts on the red project car without dropping the subframe. Mike
I can now answer my own Question... :D Yes it is possible, not really easy on a 500 V8 motor, but you can do it. Access to engine mount (especially driver side) needs to unmount some parts to have access but it works. (and it was necessary) and thanks for the Torque specs...
@@celts153 Thanks for letting me know - people often ask this question so I will pass on your answer. Mike
Great video. But the nut should be flat side up, yesterday I unscrew bolts on my w115.
Hello and thanks for your comment. I put the on nuts (shown at 5.06 in the video) the way they came which was flat side down - that way they can slide in easily. Following your comment, I went and checked how they were on my 1976 SL and once again they are flat side down. Maybe the w115 is different....or maybe they were put on the wrong way on your car.....or maybe they were put on the wrong way on both of these SL's. Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars . My 1988 560sl the nuts are flat side down. Every single suspension nut was like this aside from double flat sides. (locking side up, flat side down).
@@akirakiplinger9643 Thanks for your input.
@@MikesMercsandothercars on my w115 are still original subframe mounts (it was my fathers car), never changed -and it was flat side up. I double checked .
Look at this link forum.mercedesclub.de/index.php?thread/19923-w115-rattern-vorne-rechts-bei-standgas-4-vorderachslager-ohne-b%C3%BChne-und-grube-we/
and assembly www.benzworld.org/threads/oem-vs-aftermarket-bushings-and-engine-mounts.2465209/#lg=thread-2465209&slide=0
however, rubber mount must be original MB, others are poor. They cost about € 54 each...