Mercedes 107 SL cam bolt and spring removal
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- This is Part 2 in a series of How to remove the subframe and suspension from a Mercedes 107 SL. In this video we explain how to safely remove a lower control arm cam bolts and suspension spring from the subframe of a Mercedes 1983 107 SL. We also show one method of removing a siezed cam bolt from the lower control arm.
Greetings from California. I am about to start this same project on a 1980 SLC. Had my eye on one for ages, was originally offered at $15k stood on the forecourt of a year, went to auction and I got it at $3.8k. Great interior and 80k miles. Originally Louisiana and Tx car so unlike yours rust isn’t a big issue bar the sizable hole in the boot spare wheel well😮. Certainly wasn’t worth $15k, not sure it is worth what I paid for it but have decided to take on the project. Every piece of rubber needs to be replaced, shocks, mounts, brakes need to be refurbished, power steering pump, oil pan gasket, gearbox baskets, steering etc. so your videos are exceedingly helpful, so thanks a lot for all your hard work. I have also bought the 3 Mercedes manuals for 107’s. If you haven’t got them and need some info, let me know and I am more than happy to scan and send them over. Thanks again and be well, Markus
Hi - congrats on the car. It is a great project and I wish you all the best with it. What year and engine is it? Thanks for your offer of help. Mike
It’s the 4.5 liter V8 with a 3 speed. Engine actually sounds very healthy and the pressure is good. Gears shift smoothly but I doubt the oil has ever been changed, same for the mount. Champagne metallic with an expresso interior-very 1970’s. As I said, ever piece of rubber needs replacing. Re the expensive MB rubber oil for bushings etc I have heard that KY gel also does the trick and is much cheaper, haven’t tried it yet but there is always a first time!
Nice job and very helpful. I've got my parts on order for delivery tomorrow and will be attempting the same job myself over the weekend
Good luck - I hope it all goes well. Mike
I’ve seen this type of dissimilar metal to metal corrosion. Mostly on stainless steel and galvanised steel. The silver and nickel in the stainless reacts with the zinc in the galvin coating creating a corrosion that expands and jams the parts in situ. The metals here are aluminium and sink plated steel. Graphite grease on assembly is a good compromise to reduce the amount of metal expansion/corrosion.
Loving these comprehensive videos!
Great video! Really helpful. Thanks
Thanks for your kind comments. Mike
you can grease the bolt shaft (without the point where the nut will be) with copper paste or what I like to use is ceramic paste so it won't rust in the bushing holes :)
Yes I will certainly be using anti seize when I put the bolts back in and liquid moly (ceramic grease) is an excellent tip. Danke for your comments. MIke
My w115 somebody put new rear springs and they have the paint marking stripes on them.whatbrand are they are I have no clue.
The back end is sitting lower than I like I was going to replace all the springs but since the ones I ordered also fit w123 I've got one of those it's way nicer so I mat cut 1/4 stock coil on the w115 front coils with new shocks and try that.replacing any bad rubber I find.
Then fit it with my ultra rare w1234001002 lang Limo 15x5 1/2 123 steel wheels and 41mm painted mercedes hub caps.theres an eBay UK partsguy selling them for 1200 GBP per set used
the are not available anymore so w1244001002 rims are the alternative.
Do European cars get cut coils? I don't like the bagged idea.
Thanks for you comment. Those ebay wheels sound cool - can you send me a link? When it comes to cutting springs, I guess you have to be a bit careful. On the 107 SL, I dont think it would be possible (or wise) to cut the front springs because they are not strictly 'tangenital'. The bottom coil is flat and the top coil is narrower that the rest. Not sure what you mean by 'I dont liked the 'bagged' idea? Mike