I use evaporust for general cleaning, This tank only had one major rust area at the rear that I wanted to aggressively clean. Evaporust is good stuff but getting very hard to find here I also use muriatic acid when ever I need to solder a tank as it etches the metal well for adhesion
Yea, I hate the darn things. Last resort for me, but yes indeed, sometimes there is no other option. In this case the owner agreed that we’d try this first and see how it holds up.
Yes many times, it great for general cleaning , in this case I preferred something highly aggressive to attack a very specific area, and the acid allow for good adhesion when soldering later
The rust is going to eat its way out again in a few years. You should have used phosphoric acid! And the colour seems to be wrong. And no clear over the decals? You gotta be kidding?
The colour is identical to what I painted it last time from the same can. The repair is identical colour match. The paint was originally matched to the OEM paint via an optical scanner and paint mixed at the auto body pair shop. The tank decals are clear coated from the first repaint I did . As per the factory , the side panel decals did not get clear from the factory so they are not clear coated here. Phosphoric acid is good for soaking and converting the rust to black oxide. Muriatic acid is fine as long as you don’t leave it soaking and allow it to eat the base metal. At the end of it all, either way the rust is gone. The other advantage of muriatic acid is that it provides an excellent etching for solder to adhere to. Any tank I solder gets cleaned with muriatic acid Thanks for the comment.
I would use Evapo-Rust , quite effective from previous experience .
I use evaporust for general cleaning, This tank only had one major rust area at the rear that I wanted to aggressively clean. Evaporust is good stuff but getting very hard to find here
I also use muriatic acid when ever I need to solder a tank as it etches the metal well for adhesion
I’m with you on liners. I prefer not to use them but sometimes it’s a necessity.
Yea, I hate the darn things. Last resort for me, but yes indeed, sometimes there is no other option. In this case the owner agreed that we’d try this first and see how it holds up.
Have you ever tried Evaporust in a tank?
Yes many times, it great for general cleaning , in this case I preferred something highly aggressive to attack a very specific area, and the acid allow for good adhesion when soldering later
The rust is going to eat its way out again in a few years. You should have used phosphoric acid!
And the colour seems to be wrong. And no clear over the decals? You gotta be kidding?
The colour is identical to what I painted it last time from the same can. The repair is identical colour match. The paint was originally matched to the OEM paint via an optical scanner and paint mixed at the auto body pair shop.
The tank decals are clear coated from the first repaint I did . As per the factory , the side panel decals did not get clear from the factory so they are not clear coated here.
Phosphoric acid is good for soaking and converting the rust to black oxide. Muriatic acid is fine as long as you don’t leave it soaking and allow it to eat the base metal. At the end of it all, either way the rust is gone.
The other advantage of muriatic acid is that it provides an excellent etching for solder to adhere to. Any tank I solder gets cleaned with muriatic acid
Thanks for the comment.