A *really* important thing not mentioned is that this process is *LOUD* and hearing protection (earplugs or earmuffs/ear defenders) is an absolute must.
I almost put something about the noise in there, and at least with my set up I was surprised that the noise level was very mild! Now if I had stuck my head inside the wheel well I showed in this video while riveting it would have been unbearable.
@@danielrvilla Yeah, it really is a function of the size of the sheet metal you're riveting. Doing a rib on a 4x8 sheet of 2024 is going to ring your ears for a while! lol
@@danielrvilla I usually malke fun of "safety monitors" on here. BUT, I spent my entire carrer in fab shops and never used any hearing protection. I am currently going through a transition from a person that can hear to a deaf person. I can no longer use a telephone and often in a face to face conversition, I see a mouth moving but I hear nothing... Take that for whatever it's worth..
@@twistedhillbilly6157 ah that's frustrating! I know I have some hearing damage from working in the engine room of ships for years. Definitely lost some higher frequency sensitivity.
Thanks, I inherited a pneumatic rivit gun & a couple of bucks from a friend who did some aircraft work. Been wondering about the nuances of the process. Now I do... well done.
Good video. I hope your channel picks up some momentum. Wanted to point out why a pop rivet is also referred to as a "blind rivet." A "blind hole" is a hole that does not go all the way through a material. A "blind rivet" is able to expand the barrel material in that hole, while retracting the rivet head slightly. This makes it possible to rivet something together without a through-hole.
Ah, I've never seen a blind hole in pop riveting (not that I have that much experience) so that's interesting to learn! Thank you for the support and encouragement!
Pro tip to get the best fit possible on your holes : use a #30 Drill bit for 1/8 rivets. You can check the MIL Spec of AN rivets for aircraft buiding. #40 for 3/32 rivets, #30 for 1/8, etc... Using a 9/64 will work but because the hole is slightly oversized, you risk the shank ballooning in between your 2 or more sheet of aluminum. Also makes the whole thing way easier as the rivet fits perfectly in the hole so no risk of bucking it sideways. To get an even better fit I would use a 1/8 drill bit then a #30 straight reamer but that's probably overkill ;) Great tutorial, I wish I had this when I started building my first kitplane back in 2007-2008!
Forgot to add, try a thungsten bucking bar. Once you try one out, you'll use it everywhere! They are expensive but you can get a super small, rectangular, one with one angled face and it'll work everywhere!
Glad you liked it! This is the rivet gun set I bought, and if you use this link you'll help me out a bit, because as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases: amzn.to/406r30u
Same here. $15 for a set of rivet tools and a $10 kijiji air chisel. I don't even turn down the air. Just short burst and a light touch. You get in a rhythm. $400? Wow!
Couple things, I work for Boeing as an assembler on the 777, I've been shooting rivets for 15 years. Clecos are pronounced as klee-cose. Those aren't rivet "sets" they're rivet dies. You place the bucking bar against the "tail" of the rivet, not the shank. You don't "drive" a rivet, you "shoot" a rivet. The person with the gun is called a shooter, not a gunner. That's how it is at Boeing anyway, maybe it's different outside of Boeing. Other than that, you did have good technique when you were shooting.
Ah, thanks for the feedback! The guide I read online had the terminology I used, maybe it's old fashioned. It was annoying saying "offset rivet set" 😆 haha, oops, I'd only ever read cleco before, never heard it!
This is the rivet gun set I bought, and if you use this link you'll help me out a bit, because as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases: amzn.to/406r30u
ahh, entiendo. Yo compro a www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/solidalumrivets2.php Creo que esos son mas suaves, pero. Puedes comprar otras tipos a: www.vintagetrailersupply.com/universal-head-buck-rivets-4oz-vts-2204/
You are just making this up as you go... Jargen?? A hand squeeze is much better when access allows.. No one that actualls uses solid rivets uses a those words.. . You do not even know how to pronounce Cleko.. Air hammer or Air chisel with a set and a dolly...
Haha yep, funny about cleco since I knew it was from Cleveland. I just wanted to share what I had to learn just to get started in using this tool for my own camper van. I'm sure you can find more advanced videos on the subject out there!
@@danielrvilla There's always a difference between what is written in a book and the words used in a shop.. You would have your lunch hanging from a hoist if you talked like that in a shop..
Curious to know what buck riveting projects you all are working on!
Absolutely one awesome video. Thank You
Thanks so much! Glad you liked it ☺️
A *really* important thing not mentioned is that this process is *LOUD* and hearing protection (earplugs or earmuffs/ear defenders) is an absolute must.
I almost put something about the noise in there, and at least with my set up I was surprised that the noise level was very mild! Now if I had stuck my head inside the wheel well I showed in this video while riveting it would have been unbearable.
@@danielrvilla Yeah, it really is a function of the size of the sheet metal you're riveting. Doing a rib on a 4x8 sheet of 2024 is going to ring your ears for a while! lol
@@danielrvilla I usually malke fun of "safety monitors" on here. BUT, I spent my entire carrer in fab shops and never used any hearing protection. I am currently going through a transition from a person that can hear to a deaf person. I can no longer use a telephone and often in a face to face conversition, I see a mouth moving but I hear nothing... Take that for whatever it's worth..
@@twistedhillbilly6157 ah that's frustrating! I know I have some hearing damage from working in the engine room of ships for years. Definitely lost some higher frequency sensitivity.
@@danielrvilla I've had "some loss" 100% and 85% loss for 25 years and it's been fine until recently where it has gotten bad with tinnitus...
Thanks, I inherited a pneumatic rivit gun & a couple of bucks from a friend who did some aircraft work. Been wondering about the nuances of the process.
Now I do... well done.
So glad this was helpful! Hope you have fun with your project 😃
Excellent video!
FYI I’ve always heard Cleco pronounced with a long e, likely because that’s how the first syllable of Cleveland is pronounced.
That makes a lot of sense now that you say it haha! Thank you so much for the kind words!
Wow Dan! You are a treasure trove of knowledge!! This video is super useful 🤩
Thanks, Bea! Riveting is really satisfying - trying to think of other things I could make with it.
Wow! Lots to learn! Thorough explanations of tools and use + video with helpful details and close-ups.
Thanks! Yeah it took a while to learn enough to figure out what to buy in the first place.
Ditto🛠️👍
Thanks, Joel!
Great instructional video. Thank you for taking the time to post
Thanks for the kind words! Glad it was useful. :)
Thanks so much for making this video. It's just what I needed to get me started.
You're welcome! So glad it was helpful and have fun with your projects!
Good video. I hope your channel picks up some momentum.
Wanted to point out why a pop rivet is also referred to as a "blind rivet." A "blind hole" is a hole that does not go all the way through a material. A "blind rivet" is able to expand the barrel material in that hole, while retracting the rivet head slightly. This makes it possible to rivet something together without a through-hole.
Ah, I've never seen a blind hole in pop riveting (not that I have that much experience) so that's interesting to learn! Thank you for the support and encouragement!
Pro tip to get the best fit possible on your holes : use a #30 Drill bit for 1/8 rivets. You can check the MIL Spec of AN rivets for aircraft buiding. #40 for 3/32 rivets, #30 for 1/8, etc...
Using a 9/64 will work but because the hole is slightly oversized, you risk the shank ballooning in between your 2 or more sheet of aluminum. Also makes the whole thing way easier as the rivet fits perfectly in the hole so no risk of bucking it sideways.
To get an even better fit I would use a 1/8 drill bit then a #30 straight reamer but that's probably overkill ;)
Great tutorial, I wish I had this when I started building my first kitplane back in 2007-2008!
Forgot to add, try a thungsten bucking bar. Once you try one out, you'll use it everywhere! They are expensive but you can get a super small, rectangular, one with one angled face and it'll work everywhere!
There's a space near one of the windows I can't reach with the bucking bars - maybe this is the one I need!
This video is exactly what I needed. Thanks for making everything clear and understandable.
So glad it was useful and thanks for the kind words!
Nice video, it is very useful content for preparing my interview
Thanks and good luck with your interview! Just make sure to say "clee-co" instead of "cleh-co" like I was saying!
Very informative and excellent presentation.
Thank you so much! Hope it helped get you riveting more quickly.
I look forward to more videos and thanks for a great introduction to riveting.
Thank so much! Glad you liked it. :)
Solid! Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome! Thanks for the kind words.
And you know what the call the mother of the bucker? ^_^. Nice video, I have been wanting to learn riveting and you make it look easy!
haha, thanks! I'm glad that this was useful. It was much easier than I expected, more mental hurdles tackling something new than anything.
New subscriber here great channel. Much love to ya from Maryland❤❤❤
Thanks so much, Melvin! Very much appreciated 😊🙏
Thanks for the informative video boss
You're welcome! Glad it was useful :)
And you have a compressor at home! That´s super cool! I wish I had one, so much better to hace pneumatic tools!
Yes! I got it from my uncle and it's super handy. I just need a bigger workshop haha
I like the explanation thanks a lot,where can l request this kit?
Glad you liked it! This is the rivet gun set I bought, and if you use this link you'll help me out a bit, because as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases:
amzn.to/406r30u
Great video, so why only 256 subscribers? After watching, I'd think many more.
Thanks so much! I'd like to think so too 😉 I think it's a slow process to grow on here for most people.
great video.
Thanks so much! Glad you liked it ☺️
Pronounce it Kle-co or Klee-co. I use a cheap air chisel with a rivet tool & whatever steel scrap that fits.
You haven't had issues with the air chisel hitting too hard/fast? That's what I'd read.
Same here. $15 for a set of rivet tools and a $10 kijiji air chisel. I don't even turn down the air. Just short burst and a light touch. You get in a rhythm. $400? Wow!
Is it working with stainless rivets?
Oh, I don't know! I've only ever used it with aluminum rivets. Stainless I imagine would take more air pressure.
Couple things, I work for Boeing as an assembler on the 777, I've been shooting rivets for 15 years. Clecos are pronounced as klee-cose. Those aren't rivet "sets" they're rivet dies. You place the bucking bar against the "tail" of the rivet, not the shank. You don't "drive" a rivet, you "shoot" a rivet. The person with the gun is called a shooter, not a gunner. That's how it is at Boeing anyway, maybe it's different outside of Boeing. Other than that, you did have good technique when you were shooting.
Ah, thanks for the feedback! The guide I read online had the terminology I used, maybe it's old fashioned. It was annoying saying "offset rivet set" 😆 haha, oops, I'd only ever read cleco before, never heard it!
Cleco as i understand it is a long e, as in the name Cleveland. KLE-CO, not KLEH-CO.
Ah, thank you, I only read it before and even once I saw the origin I didn't think to pronounce it differently! haha, oops!
Where can i buy
This is the rivet gun set I bought, and if you use this link you'll help me out a bit, because as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases:
amzn.to/406r30u
@@danielrvilla hermano donde puedo comprar los solid rivets 3/16
ahh, entiendo. Yo compro a www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/solidalumrivets2.php
Creo que esos son mas suaves, pero.
Puedes comprar otras tipos a: www.vintagetrailersupply.com/universal-head-buck-rivets-4oz-vts-2204/
👍
🙏
clecos, 😂
Haha your favorite! 😄
You are just making this up as you go... Jargen?? A hand squeeze is much better when access allows.. No one that actualls uses solid rivets uses a those words.. . You do not even know how to pronounce Cleko.. Air hammer or Air chisel with a set and a dolly...
Haha yep, funny about cleco since I knew it was from Cleveland. I just wanted to share what I had to learn just to get started in using this tool for my own camper van. I'm sure you can find more advanced videos on the subject out there!
@@danielrvilla There's always a difference between what is written in a book and the words used in a shop.. You would have your lunch hanging from a hoist if you talked like that in a shop..