Tutorial - Replace Chevy Drive Shaft Center Support Bearing
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- The center support bearing offers support to the longer drive shaft found in mid-size vehicles such as the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado. Over time this part becomes worn, which can cause vibration and shaking during acceleration from a complete stop.
Driving a vehicle with a bad center support bearing can damage not only the driveshaft but also the differential and transmission of the truck which can lead to costly repairs. Learn how to change this crucial part now!
SKF's vehicle service market division is a global supplier of car and truck parts with core technical expertise in the areas of engine, drivetrain and wheel end components. SKF is represented in more than 130 countries and employs around 46,000 people world wide.
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Thank you for this. I think I just found the reason for the vibration on my truck
That spacer that people are asking about is actually a retainer ring and it goes on after the bearing according to the parts diagram I found on an oem parts site. I also called several driveline shops and they confirmed it also. They said you don't have to use it that its overkill from the factory but you can if you want. So if you had to cut yours off and didn't get a new ring with the new bearing. Your good to go with out the ring.
How do you get that cap off the drive shaft once you get the two pieces apart?
My question is. The carrier bearing comes with a thin spacer. Where does it go,or does it not need be there at all?
I knew there was a correct way to do this.
👍👍
Why didn't you show the removal of the presses on cap that disconnects the driveshafts? How does that come off?
My new bearing came w an extra washer. Any idea what that is for ?
At 2:54 the way the splitter is oriented can cause the rods to bend.
The support block and lower pressure needed for removal will maintain conformity. Thanks for watching!
One more question. Would it be a great idea to apply anti-seize on the shaft before installation of the bearing?
Drive shafts are balanced outside the truck
It would not make a difference on what rotational position the driveshaft was re-installed in. So don’t get all worked up if you didn’t mark yours
Great video. I have the same truck. I see the dust flinger is missing on that shaft. Is that only required for the original assembly? Also my replacement came with a spacer. How do i know if the spacer is required or not?
Did you ever figure out the spacer? I'm doing one now and dont know lol
I need help finding what size carrier bearing I need for my truck. I have a 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3L 4x4 extended cab long box. I cant seem to find whether I need a 35mm bore or 40mm. Thank you
Great video thank you !!
It really frustrates me that nobody puts a grease fitting on these bearings .
I think the thought is that sealed nongreasable bearings will last longer than greasable bearings that don’t get greased but for people like us that grease our stuff it is annoying not to be able to grease that bearing
exactly, same reason why heavy duty u-joints aren't greaseable, along with other heavy duty joints@@zackfalgoust3822
Thx great video
The collar, or dust seal, or retainer (whatever it is called) came off when the two shafts were separated and the brittle material decentigraded. Do you know the part name or number so I can find one to replace it with? Also, my factory shaft had a spacer on after the center support bearing so, I installed the spacer after the bearing. Will this be a problem? The bearing spins with a little force but does not completely free spin.
Did you ever find out what that part is called?
@@jtech9326 It's been so long that I forgot. I believe it is the "GM Genuine Parts 52058730 Rear Drive Shaft Slip Yoke Seal."
Just did the same thing now the truck slightly vibrates what could it be?
Thankyou
What did you put on the bottom of the bearing when you pressed it
i would love to have a press . they can be a booger to take off with hammer and chisle.
What size is the pipe he uses to set the bearing
The pipe used was 1.5 inch. It should contact the inner ring of the bearing.
I tapped the cap forward but I cant splitthe shaft. You pulled yours out like butter but mine is really stuck in there. Any ideas?
The two pieces should come apart easily
, perhaps it has not been lubricated in a while.Once the collar is removed try rust penetrant. If needed you could also try some heat. Thanks for watching, I hope this helps you complete the repair.
I forgot and put the small spacer on after the bearing,will I have to remove the bear and place it on the shaft first?also I'm getting some vibrations at about 55mph,so I'm guessing adjustment is needed in bearing placement?
Yes. If you forgot to put the spacer on first the bearing will need to come off again.
Did you notice vibration before or after the bearing replacement?
If you have a new bearing installed, check the driveline height/angle and balance as well as the u-joints
as these are all contributors to driveline vibration.
@@SKFPartsInfo carrier bearing needed replacement, a lot of vibration before I replaced it..and had a lot of play in the rubber boot,I could pick it up and down...around 300k miles on the original one I replaced
@@SKFPartsInfo does the spacer go on first? Closer to the transmission or to the differential?
@@victorcuevas660 The spacer goes on first, towards the transmission.
Thank you so much for this information, this vehicle has been worked on before, and I had no idea whether it was ever done correctly
I recently replaced my support bearing but it doesn’t spin like yours did in the video its hard for it to spin. Wrong bearing maybe?
Make sure the new bearing was driven in correctly onto the drive shaft and check to make sure that the driveshaft is not bent. Having the correct tool and using the inner race to drive it on are also important. It should turn smooth or a recheck on install should be done. Thanks for watching.
@@SKFPartsInfo What size of exhaust pipe did you used to hammer on the bearing?
Oh okay, cool. So... measure the inner bearing race and order the pipe off of Amazon; or find a piece at your local exhaust shop. Cool cool cool cool cool.
Sadly SKF, I cannot rely on the products in which you now provide. As a millwright I've inspected, serviced and replaced alot of bearings with great success with SKF.....in industry. Automotive is another story altogether! Chinesium quality offshore junk with nothing more than label-engineering! Parts distribution houses give a slight chance of warranty replacement, however they will not replace the destroyed 56 year old differential. Or the transmission after center bearing failure. Or the spindle from bearing failure. All chinesium on one vehicle. All happening within 100 or so miles between failures!
SKF probably will not catch this comment, however this is my ONLY way to be "heard".
Sorry for Edit, Lordco Auto parts, Maple Ridge British Columbia main warehouse has all my broken, weeble wobbly chinesium bearings bought from Lordco store# 38 cache creek.
Take care
Devin
I have a chevy s10 that is lowered and for the third time the center support broke any idea why it keeps on breaking ?
Your drive shaft is binding when you lower the vehicle and you don't don't have enough play for the axle just slide in and out it will put pressure on the center bearing support. Also if you have took the driveshaft out to change the u joints and not kept them aligned you could have your harmonic balance out need to have it rebalance at a machine shop to have it rebalance.
A driveline always needs balance and correct angle to function properly. If the vehicle is lowered than you may need a different
center support bearing with different centerline height or adapters.
I’m having trouble putting the rear part of the drive shaft back onto the truck. I have the front part with the centre bearing on and in the transmission and bolted onto the frame at the carrier bearing but I cannot for the life of me get the rear part on. Would I be better off taking it off and putting them together off the truck and installing in one piece.
Yes, installing the assembly in one piece will make the process easier
and help with the fit issue for the rear hookup.
Does the seperate circular ring that comes with the bearing does that go on before the bearing goes on or after the bearing goes on
The spacer goes on first and then the bearing. Thanks for watching!
was there a spacer in front of the bearing on this truck? Mine has a spacer i believe.
Yes, there is a spacer that goes on first.
@@SKFPartsInfo Is it a spacer or some kind of a collar that holds the bearing in place and should it not supposed to go after the bearing to hold it in place, but still on the tranny end?
@@SKFPartsInfo ³3
THE YANKS NEED TO USE RUSTEZE 2004 WTF I THOUGHT IT WAS 1954
GOBBLESS
Is it possible to use a bearing puller instead of a shop press. I don't have access to one
Yes,if you have the correct size puller it can be used as a good
alternative to the shop press.
SKF Parts Info would a regular 5 finger puller work or would I need a special one?
@@ThePortadump It’s difficult to say if your specific puller will work because there are many different pullers in the market. Usually a type with longer grab arms will work nicely.