Time stamps Upgrade Parts: 0:37 Replacing servo: 1:16 Adding capacitors to motor: 2:54 Upgrades: 4:16 Front one way explained: 4:36 Drive Shaft Upgrade: 7:16 Wheel Installation: 8:12 Spring Damper Upgrade: 8:48 Electronics Installation: 10:02 How to connect wires to receiver: 10:54 Transmitter setup: 11:40 Gyro setup: 13:57 Test drive: 15:33
@@foxxyytofficial Everything + Shipping is about $119. The most expensive stuff is Radiolink RC4GS for $54. Otherwise if you already have radio it'll be $65. If you get 3Racing swing shafts instead of Mini-Q you'll save a bit because they are both cheaper and don't need shim. Also ESC is quite expensive in Banggood so you can find a 20A ESC from ebay for about $3.5.
@@foxxyytofficial Forgot about AAA batteries. Ikea batteries are good, cheap and easy to find. They are essentially Eneloop. Then you have the Orion AAA 750mAh for Mini-Z racing. Orion also make HV series, high-voltage batteries too. Eneloop pro is also good.
This goes to the top for just one of your BEST videos. LOVED your example and explanation of the front one way. I thought I understood it, but apparently I didn't. But I definitely understand them now. Thanks for sharing your time and experience, Beaver. 👊👊
Willem Alexander I think they only came in a kit chassis form with no electronics for about the price you get the whole thing now. Most ppl put xmod electronics in or $100+ mini z electronics. The awd mini z had just come out and these were kind of made fun of for whatever reason.
I ordered this rc car because it has Mitsubishi Evo chasis!! Okay, real reason was that it is very cheap but you can upgrade it quite similar way as other more expensive versions. Especially after watching your videos about this car, it wasn't so difficult to decide anymore.
Very nice. I especially like how you reduced the play with the servo horn. I definitely recommend putting the shims on the front way to anyone out there reading this, my shaft pinions getting chewed up like crazy. Also i put pieces of cardboard to secure the drive shaft bearings, there was a lot of play there as well.
This is such a good video! I'd like to see this compared to an upgraded car and what you would feel in the difference between the two. That way we know what to look for with upgrades
Happy to find your channel. Great info!! These look really fun 👍 I just bought my first mini z. I say “first” because I already know this rabbit hole is Deep!!!
Hi! Im loving your videos, and i have decided to dip in rc drifting and getting this mini q trq1. 1.why this? Cheaper than wltoys, non competitive use. 2.how do i avoid some grave problems (renders the car unuseable) caused by regular use? 3.if things go bad, what other parts from wltoys is this compatible with? Thanks for the in-depth vids about this kit. Thanks too to anyone who will respond in advance.
To be honest nowadays WLtoys K969 is a better option than TRQ1 but if you already have it, there's nothing to be afraid of. The board is now a new version which is supposedly more durable than what I had. If it goes bad there are spare board and radio available to replace. The steering is less than my version but you can lift the servo up and install a new arm or I've seen someone installed a resistor on the servo to trick the board. (I think there's somewhere in the comments). It is more compatible with Mini-Z AWD than WLtoys K969/989 (although they are all based on the Mini-Z AWD platform). The universal shafts/ swing shafts or CVD are exactly the same as standard Mini-Z AWD. Wheels are the same as Mini-Z AWD. Motor pinion is a generic 0.5mod pitch plastic gear you can find easily. The chassis parts are different than other chassis and their are no spare available for the chassis tub and steering knuckles so if you break those, it's a write-off. Gears are shared with all other Mini-Q so there are spares available on Aliexpress.
@@BeaversHobby awesome! thank you very much, well i guess ill be on the trq1 until maybe ill get better and upgrade to a better kit. What concerns me most now are the screwed on wheels. But thats replaceable to lug nut type by changing the shafts to the metal ones correct as far as ive seen on the comments too somewhere. more power to you, as your videos are the most comprehensible by far i've seen here in YT regarding this topic.
Hello Beaver! I have a question. What is the power switch on the bottom? It still works when it’s off then I switched it on and the car acted kind of weird? Thank you!!
It's power switch. The car should be off when it's at off position. I think you got a defective switch and board if the car is on no matter if the switch is on or off. You can unplug the switch too open up the case and pull small plug with 2 wires out and see if the board is still acting weird.
Beaver's Hobby thank you! I will try it. Ordered 2 cars and that happened to one and the other one seems the gear is stuck? The wheels simply won’t move anymore after the second charge. Worked great for the first hour haha
@@calk8953 Check the ST/DR dial. If it's too low the car won't run. Try and turn a wheel with your hand. If it can turn when the power off but it won't turn when the power on then there's a problem with the electronics. Hope this helps.
@@BeaversHobby i was talking about the prop shaft and not the drive shafts. sorry about my poor technical language. is it possible to use the same prop shaft as k989?
@@antoniogilmesquita Not directly. Both shaft ends are longer than Mini-Q but you can file them out so the length is the same. The cut is the same size though so you'll only need to file both ends off.
If the ESC and servo still work you can move them to this metal chassis. bit.ly/3EzUiNJ I did a review on it here. ua-cam.com/video/NxQBRrWeAbY/v-deo.html And this is the compatibility test. ua-cam.com/video/ViD8u__FxN0/v-deo.html
I took the instruction from www.pololu.com/docs/0J15/9 . It's there to filter the noise from brushed motor so the non-polar 0.1 microfarad is enough to do that.
Hello, this is precisely what I want to do with a project that I have in mind but not for drift, it is for a Scania 1/24 model truck ... make it motorized but I would like to know if there is any Kit for such a smaller model? or if you knew what page
You can try and use a chassis like this one or better still, WLtoys K989 as a base to build the car. Then get a model to use as a shell. I don't know how big a truck would be but if you are OK with only the main bit and not with the container then there're also truck bodies for 98mm wheelbase which will fit WLtoys K989 perfectly too. This for example. www.kenonhobby.com/Marka-Racing-Mini-Z-RK-Truck-USA-Racing-Lexan-Body-Kit-98mm-WB_p_46406.html
Outstanding overview! I personally would also swap the gear for the rear final drive to make the rear wheels spin faster than the front. Do you have any tips for good body shells for that car? Thanks and keep the great content coming!
Any Mini-Z 94mm wheelbase will work. Here's an example with Toyota GT86. ua-cam.com/video/U8kbobTW_10/v-deo.html CS mod works on this car too. 1.875 is already good, 2.0 is OK but the steering angle starts to get too low for that. I'd say 2.0 CS is the most it can do.
Thanks for the awesome vid, definitely going to go this route for my first drift build. Also I was wondering if you could drop the front drive and use the gyro to build a RWD drifter? Would that work? I figured I could start with the AWD drive setup and then once I felt I got the hang of drifting in AWD I could convert it to RWD and learn with that. What do you think?
It can be a bit difficult with this chassis because you'll have to cut a lot of things out to make the sufficient steering angle and I'm not sure if the chassis can take it.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the reply! I think I'll give it go and see how much of the chassis I can preserve. Worst case scenario I can always make a new chassis if I break the original.
Hi beaver, Will 30A brushed ESC work with this build? More specifically will it work with pretty much 1S batteries? I dont know much about ESCs other than it being a regulator for speed and power.
It depends on which 30A, you'll have to check if it supports 1S or 3.7-4.2V. The one I have doesn't work well but after I bought it some people got a different board so it's quite random. Anyway, for a 1S you can use the red board 20A, it'll work without any problem and it's more than enough,
@@BeaversHobby so i ended up getting a 10A ESC. I got to setting it up. Issue i got was its faster on reverse than forward throttle. I searched the board's name LS-L4015D V2, found products one in bangood, saw ur name.. and another guy who might have the same issue. (So much for being a 10A as it was advertised on where i bought it lol). Based on ur review on banggood, how did u manage to use/find it well btw? Curious as it may solve my problem.
@@jonokami2138 Sorry to hear that. Banggood change that product pretty much every batch. What I got also different than the one I had before from the same link. So I think I was just lucky to get a good batch. I assumed a newer one would be better than the old but it turns out that it's not the case. The other one you can try is DumboRC 10A. I'm not sure if it's on banggood or Aliexperss right now.
Please explain to me about the capacitors on the motor. I understand that its to filter out electrical noise. But I thought that 2,4GHz system didn't suffered from this the same way old FM/AM systems did? Oh and also. If you could only do one of these upgrades (and the electronics the car came with actually works out of the box). Which one would you choose?
It is true that 2.4GHz should not get interference from the noise easily but it's better safe than sorry so do it for precaution is pretty much a standard practice. The one upgrade that matter the most for drifting is front one way. I'll make drifting much easier. Springs are cheap so you should get that as well. Wheels and tyres are optional but nice upgrade nontheless. Oops, that was 3. Anyway, do the front one way first.
They are Rays TE37 wheels made by Route 246. I got them from Banzaihobby. Here they are bit.ly/2IuAcII . What I have are offset 1, narrow for all corners. There are other offsets too and also wide wheels. ps. TE37 looks good on any car.
Hi Beaver, when you upgrade the electronics, can you not keep the old servo? I have an extra 3-in-1 circuit board from mini-q q7, do you think I can use it to upgrade trq1? Or are they not precise enough?
The original servo is 5 wires and not compatible with standard 3 wires system so I had to upgrade it. Q7 board is also 3 wire as standard RC component. You can also transplant servo board from a broken 3 wire servo in to it and not upgrade the servo too, like this. ua-cam.com/video/GDukjyycyxo/v-deo.html
I bought a trq1, I see that the wheels rotate at the same time the front and rear wheels. How to make the rear wheels spin faster than the front wheels?
Here's how you mod the spur gear + rear gear. ua-cam.com/video/pZxPKXgPvt0/v-deo.html And here's how you mod the diff to fit. ua-cam.com/video/t6PiUq-_9lI/v-deo.html
I know this is a year later, but that triple A battery tray is using a ph2 no? I could switch the harnesses around and use my 1s tiny whoop batteries right?
Beaver's Hobby is there any way you can point me to a low profile receiver mod? I’m not fond of that bulky set up with plugs and all, coming from quadcopters and all
@@amszulu You can replace the plugs with JST-ZH 1.5mm or use something that has that plug already like this. ua-cam.com/video/_AAYvjIITiw/v-deo.html Some servos also already come with ZH plug because it's the standard plug in 1/28 racing.
Beaver's Hobby that’s perfect actually! I’m a total noob so I would like to have some gyro. I’ve got the stock trq1 on the way, so I’m trying to piece together my mods list
@@amszulu Gyro for GMR receiver will come later but right now if you want onboard gyro Radiolink RC4GS has receivers with build-in gyro. Well, it's a bit big but you can always replace the plugs.
Hello do you also have recommendations for a racing configuration for this car and also is there a way to get more steering or at least whit my car it can go a little bit further but it doesn’t when I have the steering trim all the way to the right and to the left it does go that tiny bit further
For racing config, use Mini-Z or Mini-Q ball differentials instead of front one way and rear solid axle. Use Mini-Z radial tyres instead of drift tyres. Swap front and rear springs from this setup, basically you'll use front hard and rear soft for touring. As for the small steering angle, it's a problem from the new board version. You can try and use new servo horn that is longer (buy a new 5g servo just to get the horn) then lift the servo up to accommodate that length. Otherwise, upgrade the electronics just like in this video.
@@BeaversHobby tank you i got rubber tyres from aliexpress to try out it should be 19 mm inside diameters and the wheel it self i got the white 6 spoke whit some extra drift tyres and the crosswrench i also am going to get a different body from alliexpress it kinda looks like a peugeot rally car with a wide body kit in yellow so white rims black tyres or white tyres and the balldiferentials from banggood i already have bought the swing shafts and but i will have to wait for them now busy whit trouble shooting my fpv drone as well
Love your channel the most around mini car world. Thanks for this tutorial, learnt a lot! I noticed that the servo has 5 wires. How does this servo adapted to a standard receiver? Is the power HD 1600 precise enough for drifting? Would you pls make a episode about different electronic sets from different price level? Thank you for your effort! Wish you come back soon.
You can install servo controller from another 3 wires servo to 5 wires too. Essentially 3 wires servo are 5 wires with controller. Power HD is precise enough for drifting but it's not tough so if you crash a bit hard it'll break. Thanks for the suggestion about different servo. I'm trying to come up with an easy to understand way to do comparing standard servo with one very expensive that I just got from XRX.
Do you know why the D.I.Y. kit is more expensive I plan on a drift build like this I just wanted to know if there is any perks with the DIY over the TRQ1
It's 94mm wheelbase so you can choose them from Mini-Z. I bought most of my bodies from Banzaihobby. Here's link to unpainted bodies. bit.ly/2CGgozp You can check the wheelbase here. Look for 94mm. kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/ And here's how to mount a Mini-Z body on this car. EP1. ua-cam.com/video/U8kbobTW_10/v-deo.html EP2. ua-cam.com/video/-kKLbRNrDxY/v-deo.html
@@BeaversHobby hi i just got mine and there's already a problem. The servo wont turn if i turn the steering wheel on the remote but if i just adjust the st/trm on the remote,the the servo will turn right or left. Do u have any idea which part should i replace?
I purchased this car currently waiting for it into to mail. I just want my car to look good first I really like the rims and was thinking it just needs a more realistic body. How hard is it to put a kyosho mini z body on one?
@@natesimasek The rims are standard Mini-Z rims so you can find it easily. It's not hard to fit Mini-Z body either. Just shave the chassis off a bitnat the front so you can install front lip. Then on the body you grind side clips off until it fits on the chassis and at the back remove metal bar from original body to install it on the new one.
The original one is 5 wire system which isn't compatible with standard RC electronics I upgrade the car too. Then the precision, that 5 wire isn't precise nor fast.
Probably. You can ask the nut&bolt supplier as well for the washers of these sizes. 6x8mm with 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm thickness (for differential) 3.3x4.5mm (or M3) with 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm thickness (for wheel hub & shaft)
bought the mechanical parts and right before to install them the car started to behave weird: sometime it won't back and steer, it just freezes. Do you guys have any idea what it is?
That's a problem from the circuit board. Try to put speed limiter to max, turn it off and on again and see if that still occur. Otherwise your board is on its way out.
@@the_real_stingfloyd Unfortunately, no. I have seen an old board in hobbyking but I'm not sure if it'd work with Q1 transmitter. It's better to upgrade it to separated unit if the board goes bad.
Excellent video! So, question: if I have the Flysky GT3B - can that work with the gyro? If not, you said you don't use the gyro when you drive, does that mean that gyro compatibility with the receiver isn't necessary? I would love to follow this video exactly but want to use my existing receiver. Thanks!
The gyro I have in this is the onboard gyro integrated in to the receiver from the Radiolink system. If you use GT3B normally it doesn't have that. But you can install separated gyro unit like what I have in my RWD drift car. Here it is. bit.ly/2LAH1ND You can do the same as I do in this video except your receiver is going to look a bit different than mine. The difference is you will sticking the plug in to same channel but not the same position because Flysky has CH1 at the bottom but Radiolink has CH1 at the top, that's it. Everything is the same except for the part that I calibrate & setup gyro. Because Flysky standard receiver doesn't have gyro. Recently I saw the new receiver for GT3B that has integrated gyro. The gyro setup procedure is of course going to be different but at least you have it in your receiver and don't have to install a separate unit. Check this out if you don't want to have wires going everywhere. bit.ly/2K0vsuS By the way, I have no idea how to adjust this unit or how to reverse the gyro direction which you will most likely need.
@@BeaversHobby That new receiver looks perfect, thanks for the link! Banggood links to a PDF manual of it. The manual shows how to reverse the gyro. On the face of the unit in bright blue are two potentiometers which are not described in the manual. ST GAIN and TH GAIN. ST GAIN is probably steering gain, would TH GAIN be throttle gain?
@@darkNiGHTS0 I think TH gain is the same as Spektrum AVC system where it manages the throttle as well as steering when the car swings. In other words, it reduces the throttle when the car slides.
Check the steering trim on the radio first. It should go straight when you run slowly forward. And then check that the wheels are not overtighten or loosen so the handling is all over the place. Check if all the wheels touch the ground evenly as well, this can be fixed by loosen the top gearbox cover or suspension mount, wiggle it around then re-tighten it back.
@@BeaversHobby I had checked it like you show. With slowly forward and backward. The wheels are not overtighten, I changed the wheels from round to flat. Later I try the other possibilities. I make an video, that you see how the problem looks.
@@BeaversHobby cheers mate, I'll probably just upgrade the electronics since I can't bothered with buying a 1s batteries. Also I would love to see you work on new projects on cheap 1/28 scale rc.
I've never got Tony Drift Package before so I don't know. To fit the DS tyres, the wheels should look like what I show in this video. Here's what you can do. Check the wheels if the part where you put the tyre on is cylinder and not grooved. Then check the diameter and width. If the diameter is 20mm and width is 8.5mm (narrow) or 11mm (wide) then you can fit DS tyres (and any Mini-Z tyres) on it.
Heya, I was wondering if you know of a differential for the rear of the Q1 I have the front one way but still have the standard rear diff still ,🤔 do you know what diff's will fit? , Thanks Beaver's Hobby
You can use Mini-Z solid axle or open up the original one you have and lock it. Here's how you temporary lock it you can use glue instead of blu-tac to permanently lock the diff. ua-cam.com/video/U23Xfz1czek/v-deo.html Mini-Z solid axle www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-13-AL-Rear-Solid-Axle-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253336924294?
Please help me beaver, I have the new mini q brushed 20a esc with rc4gs. steering works perfectly and the car will run normally for about 3 seconds and then the esc no longer emits any noise and no throttle response no matter what I try in the settings it still cuts out shortly after. Is this because I am using the newer radiolink?
This sounds more like a problem form the ESC than the radio. You can try plugging the ESC into channel 1 to see if it works and you can control it with the steering. If that works then the receiver has broken channel 2. If doesn't work then the ESC just went bad or faulty.
@@benkomadina8827 No, they won't work at the same time. Basically you'll replace the steering servo with ESC to see if the ESC works by controlling it with steering. You can also plug the steering servo into channel 2 and see if you can move it with the trigger (throttle) as well. But I doubt it'd work since it very much looks like your ESC is faulty. Here's how a radio works. - Channel 1 is controlled by the steering on the radio. - Channel 2 is controlled by the trigger or the throttle on the radio. - Each channel output a signal to control a device that is connected to it. So you'll be able to control only whatever you connect to that specific channel.
Very sorry for the confusion, I swapped the servo to channel 2 and and the esc to channel 1 and the roles were reversed however the esc will still shut off after spinning the wheels for a second or 2 using the steering knob. I put the servo and esc back and if I turn the steering and give it throttle it will engage the motor but not smoothly. Steering input =throttle? Should I just try generic esc and see if it operates normally
Thanks for the suggestion. But this one I'll probably won't do because I saw how it goes with other people and don't think it'd worth it. Apart from being tiny bit lighter, handling wise it doesn't add anything to the car. Better save up for entire new chassis.
Also if you have supply shop for nuts & bolts near you, you should check it out first. The stuffs that have "RC" label are always more expensive and hard to find. Look for washer with 6 inner diameter, 8mm outer diameter and 0.1,0.2 and 0.3mm thickness for the diff and 3mm inner diameter, 4.5mm outer diameter 0.1,0.2 and 0.3mm thickness in case you need some for the wheels. If there's nothing locally, Mini-Z Racing Italia is there for you. www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=873_437
Good friends, I have been following your channel for a long time, the truth would be great if you had subtitles in Spanish, hahaha, here there is not so much information about cars 1/28 scale, I tell you I have a 1/28 wltoys and I use it for the drift I would like to know that other cars Do you advise me for this, another question is driving a rear better?
Wltoys is already a good car once you fix the drivetrain and suspension. If you want to upgrade right now there are more choices for RWD drift car. I highly recommend HGD1 because it's easy to build and easy to drift without spinning out. Or if you want to stay in AWD drift then Atomic AMZ with hyper steering upgrade is still an excellent choice. You can move the electronics from Wltoys to AMZ too.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you very much for answering then I will wait to buy an amz, the wltoys more or I manage it I have several videos of it on my channel hahaha it is very funny with what to fix transmission and suspension you refer to and thank you very much for the advice 👍
Unfortunately I don't know much about Xmods apart from it uses some king of 5 wire servo and a board so you can probably try and update the electronics to RC standard with 3 wire.
There's CS kit available on Aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003114170557.html You'll need rear gear with 14T as well. Choose 94mm wheelbase for TRQ1. www.aliexpress.com/item/4001047156489.html Otherwise you can make the modification yourself like this. ua-cam.com/video/t6PiUq-_9lI/v-deo.html Don't forget that you'll need the front one way for CS.
What li-po batteries do you recommend? Buying AAA batteries is getting expensive. Thank you for the video btw! I'm trying to gather all the parts so that I can upgrade my car too. I love it!
For lipo, Anything that fit in the tray will work. I really like Giant Power 2S 300mAh (doesn't work with original board). You'll need new charger if you haven't got one already.
@@erraddict I meant you'll need to find 1S lipo that fit the tray. Check out Hobbyking and you can select the size of the battery. What I use, which is 2S won't work with the original board. Also you'll need a charger for Lipo too. You can also buy rechargeable AAA with charger from Ikea, they are really good.
@@mir4gem There's a plastic piece on each side that stops the steering column from moving in further. You can file those off. However if you got the new batch of TRQ1 the problem is at the electronics. It just won't turn the servo.
@@BeaversHobby ah.. now I get it. But yes, it's the black version, I think other people have complained the same issue. The plastic you say doesn't block anything, it's the servo that turns just a litle bit. I need to replace it. AFRC-D1802 mini servo 3.7 6.0 v 5g JR plug, right?
Yes, you can use 1S with original ESC. The car will be lighter and a bit more nimble. I don't notice any difference in speed between 1S and AAA batteries though.
Yes, however I don't really recommend it because the gear is very sharp and so far it has chewed my pinion out really badly (nearly killed my MA-030 AWD pinion too). Wait for genuine Mini-Z oneway is back in stock is a better option.
I only paid about $8 for the springs that I didn't have, all the rest are what I have already. However if you just started and don't have any part nor radio and washers, everything + shipping are about $119. The most expensive stuff is Radiolink RC4GS for $54. Otherwise if you already have radio it'll be $65. If you get 3Racing swing shafts instead of Mini-Q you'll save a bit because they are both cheaper and don't need shim.
There's a carbon version of this chassis too but you'll spend on the chassis as much as buying a new car. If you want to upgrade it will be like complete overhaul or move your diff, wheels & electronics to the new chassis. You might as well buy an Atomic AMZ at this point.
@@benweddup552 Personally I suggest getting the Atomic AMZ instead. It's $65 exclude shipping. What you'll get here is essentially the first Mini-Z AWD killer with sophisticated double wishbone suspension, great ball differential (best I've ever used), grease shocks (work like oil shock in big cars) it'll stick in the corner like a glue. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_1037_1040&products_id=13054 However if you insist on building or converting TRQ1 to carbon plate chassis, here's the parts you need and estimated cost. But I have to tell you that basically you will turn this car in to Mini-Q Q5. Which is an old chassis with old style suspension that can't handle hi-speed cornering. Mini-Q Carbon Chassis $48 hobbyking.com/en_us/camber-adjustment-set-update-version.html?wrh_pdp=7 You'll need front knuckle: $5.57 hobbyking.com/en_us/hybrid-front-steering-block-version-2-turnigy-tz4-awd-drift-spec.html Then you'll need servo bracket $1.41 hobbyking.com/en_us/servo-mount-turnigy-tz4-awd.html Battery brackets (you need 2 parts, inner and outer bracket ~$2 hobbyking.com/en_us/battery-holder-a-turnigy-tz4-awd.html hobbyking.com/en_us/battery-holder-inner-turnigy-tz4-awd.html?wrh_pdp=7 Front steering rods $4.23 hobbyking.com/en_us/strengthened-adjustable-steering-tie-rod-set-turnigy-tz4-awd-drift-spec.html Rear knuckle + toe arm $5.47 www.banggood.com/SINOHOBBY-Mini-Q5-RC-Car-Spare-Parts-Steering-Hub-Set-V28-018Z-p-1063469.html Front centre shaft holder $0.9 hobbyking.com/en_us/front-axis-tray-turnigy-tz4-awd.html?wrh_pdp=3 Motor mount ~$10 www.aliexpress.com/item/32689749595.html Total of $77 exclude shipping. Additional parts are not expensive, they just never in stock. But you can get aluminium parts from the same source as the motor mount. So actually you are looking at around $100 to get an outdated car.
Beaver's Hobby thank you very much for this.. I'll be ordering these parts next week , I like the car even though it's old☺️ Also I've been trying to order the amz without success as nowhere has one in stock, I'm in UK and assumed it was easy to find... Any shops you can suggest.? Thanks again for all your help Regards Ben😉👍🏻
@@benweddup552 Try your local Mini-Z tracks. I think they should have AMZ. Otherwise wait for it to be back in stock in RCmart. Miracle mart can be an ar*e sometimes. By the way, there's also a complete carbon + aluminium Mini-Q rolling chassis in Aliexpress link that I sent you as well. So you don't have to hunt down all the parts one by one. All that left to do is moving your electronics to that chassis.
Yes, it fits. But you'll need long drive shafts too because Wltoys is wide chassis. ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Black-1-Pair-Long%29.html
You'll have to change the plugs to be the same as on the battery tray and motor. This car uses JST-XH 2.5mm 2 pin on both. Cut the old plugs out and solder new ones to it.
@@hwelp You'll have to get the shims separately. The size is 6mm inner diameter and 8mm outer diameter, thickness between 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm. Basically 6x8x0.2mm washers. I got mine from Atomic. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_322_488&products_id=6103 ps. Don't worry about the questions. You can ask whatever you like.
Ok thanks. I just recently found the wprld of mini rc drift and it seemed really cool so wanted one and the trq1 seemed like a pretty good cat and i want to make it for drifting and i saw that you use front one way and i just realised now that you linked the items below but the shims were from another site. I know that atomic is a trusted site but i still try to find it somewhere else. I found shims 6×8mm shims on amazon that looked like the one in the vid but i was worried it wouldnt fit so i asked if the shims were needed. Thanks for answering my questions :D Idk why my phone corrects car as cat
You can search for these bearings on other websites. - 3x7x2mm bearings, needed 8 for the wheel hubs. - 6x10x3mm bearings, needed 4 for the differentials. - 2x5x2.5mm bearings, needed 2 for the prop shaft. Here are what I can find. www.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-Ball-Bearings-3x7x2mm-Replacement-Ball-Bearings-Kit-Shielded-Ball-Bearings/333769629995? www.ebay.com/itm/10-MR106ZZ-6x10x3mm-P0-ABEC1-Deep-Groove-Ball-Miniature-Bearing-Gcr15/174286910806 www.ebay.com/itm/MR52ZZ-2x5x2-5mm-Double-Shielded-Miniature-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-682ZZ/163307396887
@@454charing The only size that will fit is 1410 or 1625 (depends on the brand, they are the same dimensions)which is equivalent to 130 size for brushed motor. Here's my brushless setup. ua-cam.com/video/7tq9JoxmZU8/v-deo.html You can find the list of motor in my review. ua-cam.com/video/5Z-S6d10na4/v-deo.html
Everything + Shipping is about $119. The most expensive item is Radiolink RC4GS which is $54. Otherwise if you already have a radio then it'll be $65. If you buy 3Racing swing shafts instead of Mini-Q you'll save a bit more because they are both cheaper and don't need shim. Also ESC is quite expensive in Banggood so you can find a 20A ESC from ebay for about $3.5.
@@karenbaxter2706 Either Mini-Q TRQ1 or WLtoys K969/K989. TRQ1 is a good chassis but electronics is fragile (that's why I replaced everything in this video). This one is a gamble. If the circuit board holds up it will be the best car to start. Other components are quite durable. Overall it doesn't drive as well as WLtoys and it doesn't have much headroom to modify. WLtoys is the fastest in the budget category and has a lot of headroom to upgrade and modify. However the plastic is brittle and gears wear out very quickly. K989 and K969 are essentially the same car. K989 is rally/touring because it comes with open gear diff and grip tyres. K969 is labelled as drift car because it comes with solid axles (permanently locked diffs) and drift tyres. Choose whichever body you like because you'll want to change the tyres anyway and a differential can be locked later. However it will need a bit of fixing to get it to work. I have entire video series for that. But just to get it working properly, follow episode 1 and 2. ua-cam.com/play/PLS79G3YjA2fAEez9GVeLW3JIy_LUIb6Mb.html In conclusion, you have to choose between dodgy electronics from TRQ1 or fragile gears from WLToys.
I only paid about $8 for the springs that I didn't have, all the rest are what I have already. However if you just started and don't have any part nor radio and washers, everything + shipping are about $119. The most expensive stuff is Radiolink RC4GS for $54. Otherwise if you already have radio it'll be $65. If you get 3Racing swing shafts instead of Mini-Q you'll save a bit because they are both cheaper and don't need shim. For bare minimum you can just get the car and front one way and that will be $56.
Beaver's Hobby alright thank you for the info $120 not too bad. I really want to get into rc drifting but it’s really expensive in the 1/10 scale so I’m hoping to get into it at the 1/28 scale. I’m glad I found you channel you’re very informative !
Beaver's Hobby in your original review you said that the 3 in 1 unite fired in this car. Should I worry that that will happened to me or was it because you were pushing it in the speed test?
Including the car and tool to remove the wheels, about $119. This includes all the upgrades and new radio too. If you already have that the cost will go down another $54.
@@oliviergoggins Yes, it's expensive if you go all out with the upgrades. As I said a decent transmitter costs $54 and that's where the most spending goes to. But if you get only the car and treat it well, you won't have to change a thing unless you want to upgrade. Still, this is the cheapest car to upgrade to a full blown drift car. Mini-Q Q7 (best AWD drift right now) starts at $120. If you want RWD drift, Atomic DRZ only chassis costs $129, with some electronics it costs $199 and you'll have to buy literally everything extra from wheels, body, etc. to battery and charger. Small size doesn't make the bill smaller.
@Beaver, so which metal drive draft is perfect fit without shim or file. I saw you once recommended the one from Aliexpress,link below.. Is it perfect fit? Is this also same as the 3racing's one you recommended. m.aliexpress.com/item/32949670507.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail I think you said the one from Banggood needs a lot of shims. Edited: i watched your video again, you said the mini z from 3racing one would be perfect fit without shim. I just bought the front one way you suggested from banggood. Btw, with everything stock i already very satisfied with the way it drift. Will see how this simple mod will do. Thanks
3Racing or Eagle Racing drive shaft will work well without shims. Yes, just upgrade drive shaft and one way and probably wheels & tyres if you want more control. The whole thing I did with electronics here was because the board was burnt.
@@BeaversHobby thanks. 3racing one is restocking. The Eagle racing is that the link from your Rcgroup blog's one on ebay. Is that $11 for 4 dog bone. It doesn't specify, but the picture shows 4 of them. So the blue and red ones from Aliexpress are not perfect fit, aren they?
@@Ykev2000 Red and blue from Aliexpress is a gamble. You might get one that the shaft might be shorter, longer or thicker than it should be. You can try though but I don't guarantee the result or how would it fit. Eagle racing is a set of 4, it has has long and short shafts. I'm not sure which one you found. This is link for short shaft. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-10S-ST-Universal-Joint-Shaft-S-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253151171525
@@BeaversHobby thanks a lot. I will buy the Eagle one. Do you know if it includes the nuts. My TQR1 came with screws instead of nuts. Probably the newer version only comes with screws.
@@jp7g229 M2 lock nut. If you get steel nuts you'll need 4mm hex wrench. If you get aluminium nuts they will be 4.5mm. Get a 2 dollars cross wrench and it'll have every tip you need.
The fuck? thats not budget at all, it was very funny the "don't use lipo because it is more expensive" then you use a douzen of metal upgrade parts, each one of them is twice the price of a lipo battery for that car lol-
![[Review] Mini-Q TRQ1 - 1/28 4WD Drift Car](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5Z-S6d10na4/mqdefault.jpg)
Time stamps
Upgrade Parts: 0:37
Replacing servo: 1:16
Adding capacitors to motor: 2:54
Upgrades: 4:16
Front one way explained: 4:36
Drive Shaft Upgrade: 7:16
Wheel Installation: 8:12
Spring Damper Upgrade: 8:48
Electronics Installation: 10:02
How to connect wires to receiver: 10:54
Transmitter setup: 11:40
Gyro setup: 13:57
Test drive: 15:33
How much did it costed with all upgrades, shims and everything?
And please tell me good AAA rechargeable batteries to use
@@foxxyytofficial Everything + Shipping is about $119.
The most expensive stuff is Radiolink RC4GS for $54. Otherwise if you already have radio it'll be $65.
If you get 3Racing swing shafts instead of Mini-Q you'll save a bit because they are both cheaper and don't need shim.
Also ESC is quite expensive in Banggood so you can find a 20A ESC from ebay for about $3.5.
@@foxxyytofficial Forgot about AAA batteries. Ikea batteries are good, cheap and easy to find. They are essentially Eneloop.
Then you have the Orion AAA 750mAh for Mini-Z racing. Orion also make HV series, high-voltage batteries too.
Eneloop pro is also good.
This goes to the top for just one of your BEST videos. LOVED your example and explanation of the front one way. I thought I understood it, but apparently I didn't. But I definitely understand them now.
Thanks for sharing your time and experience, Beaver. 👊👊
I’d have NEVER thought the mini q could still be around in 2019 lol I remember this car from around 15+ years ago.
But way less modern?
@@willemalexander5460 what do you mean? it is literally the same car
@@civicsr2cool was it cheaper back then?
Willem Alexander I think they only came in a kit chassis form with no electronics for about the price you get the whole thing now. Most ppl put xmod electronics in or $100+ mini z electronics. The awd mini z had just come out and these were kind of made fun of for whatever reason.
Thank you so much for making this video now I can finally get into RC drifting
I ordered this rc car because it has Mitsubishi Evo chasis!! Okay, real reason was that it is very cheap but you can upgrade it quite similar way as other more expensive versions. Especially after watching your videos about this car, it wasn't so difficult to decide anymore.
Very nice. I especially like how you reduced the play with the servo horn. I definitely recommend putting the shims on the front way to anyone out there reading this, my shaft pinions getting chewed up like crazy. Also i put pieces of cardboard to secure the drive shaft bearings, there was a lot of play there as well.
This is such a good video! I'd like to see this compared to an upgraded car and what you would feel in the difference between the two. That way we know what to look for with upgrades
That came out nice. That driving was insane! That is all I need to see to know this upgrade was successful! Lol ... Damn good drifting man!
perfect in details for newbies like me, many thanks!
Happy to find your channel. Great info!! These look really fun 👍 I just bought my first mini z. I say “first” because I already know this rabbit hole is Deep!!!
Once you go down this path there's no turning back. Mwaha ha ha!
This is your daily dose of Recommendation
Upgrade Drift car for budget
I just got one and ordered another. I need to get a lipo for it. Great vid.
Anything within 50x23mm will fit, height isn't a problem. Most 350-400mAh batteries will fit inside it.
Anyway to increase the steering angle on the trq1?
Thanks for the video, very helpful!
The most you can do is file the inside of the steering bar so it can turn a bit more. Unfortunately there isn't much you can do on this chassis.
Hi! Im loving your videos, and i have decided to dip in rc drifting and getting this mini q trq1.
1.why this? Cheaper than wltoys, non competitive use.
2.how do i avoid some grave problems (renders the car unuseable) caused by regular use?
3.if things go bad, what other parts from wltoys is this compatible with?
Thanks for the in-depth vids about this kit.
Thanks too to anyone who will respond in advance.
To be honest nowadays WLtoys K969 is a better option than TRQ1 but if you already have it, there's nothing to be afraid of.
The board is now a new version which is supposedly more durable than what I had. If it goes bad there are spare board and radio available to replace.
The steering is less than my version but you can lift the servo up and install a new arm or I've seen someone installed a resistor on the servo to trick the board. (I think there's somewhere in the comments).
It is more compatible with Mini-Z AWD than WLtoys K969/989 (although they are all based on the Mini-Z AWD platform). The universal shafts/ swing shafts or CVD are exactly the same as standard Mini-Z AWD. Wheels are the same as Mini-Z AWD. Motor pinion is a generic 0.5mod pitch plastic gear you can find easily. The chassis parts are different than other chassis and their are no spare available for the chassis tub and steering knuckles so if you break those, it's a write-off. Gears are shared with all other Mini-Q so there are spares available on Aliexpress.
@@BeaversHobby awesome! thank you very much, well i guess ill be on the trq1 until maybe ill get better and upgrade to a better kit.
What concerns me most now are the screwed on wheels. But thats replaceable to lug nut type by changing the shafts to the metal ones correct as far as ive seen on the comments too somewhere.
more power to you, as your videos are the most comprehensible by far i've seen here in YT regarding this topic.
@@jonokami2138 My pleasure.
Hello Beaver! I have a question. What is the power switch on the bottom? It still works when it’s off then I switched it on and the car acted kind of weird? Thank you!!
It's power switch. The car should be off when it's at off position. I think you got a defective switch and board if the car is on no matter if the switch is on or off. You can unplug the switch too open up the case and pull small plug with 2 wires out and see if the board is still acting weird.
Beaver's Hobby thank you! I will try it. Ordered 2 cars and that happened to one and the other one seems the gear is stuck? The wheels simply won’t move anymore after the second charge. Worked great for the first hour haha
@@calk8953 Check the ST/DR dial. If it's too low the car won't run. Try and turn a wheel with your hand. If it can turn when the power off but it won't turn when the power on then there's a problem with the electronics. Hope this helps.
Hey Beaver! Do you know what type of brush motor could fit into it? Thank you and have a nice day!
It's called "130 motor".
Hi Beaver! Does the wltoys k989 drive shaft and gears work on the trq1?
Only the 17T motor pinion will work for sure. The drive shafts/swing shafts are 1mm longer and will only work if you use ball differential.
@@BeaversHobby i was talking about the prop shaft and not the drive shafts. sorry about my poor technical language. is it possible to use the same prop shaft as k989?
@@antoniogilmesquita Not directly. Both shaft ends are longer than Mini-Q but you can file them out so the length is the same. The cut is the same size though so you'll only need to file both ends off.
Hello, my chassi broke, do you know where I can buy another one that's the same or better
If the ESC and servo still work you can move them to this metal chassis. bit.ly/3EzUiNJ
I did a review on it here. ua-cam.com/video/NxQBRrWeAbY/v-deo.html
And this is the compatibility test. ua-cam.com/video/ViD8u__FxN0/v-deo.html
hello great video but can you explain how you calculated the value of the capacitors? and what changes between the three installation systems?
I took the instruction from www.pololu.com/docs/0J15/9 .
It's there to filter the noise from brushed motor so the non-polar 0.1 microfarad is enough to do that.
Thanks beaver. Would you recommend installing the capacitors on a k989. There is a circuit board there so I was not sure. Thanks.
Hello, this is precisely what I want to do with a project that I have in mind but not for drift, it is for a Scania 1/24 model truck ... make it motorized but I would like to know if there is any Kit for such a smaller model? or if you knew what page
You can try and use a chassis like this one or better still, WLtoys K989 as a base to build the car. Then get a model to use as a shell. I don't know how big a truck would be but if you are OK with only the main bit and not with the container then there're also truck bodies for 98mm wheelbase which will fit WLtoys K989 perfectly too.
This for example. www.kenonhobby.com/Marka-Racing-Mini-Z-RK-Truck-USA-Racing-Lexan-Body-Kit-98mm-WB_p_46406.html
Outstanding overview! I personally would also swap the gear for the rear final drive to make the rear wheels spin faster than the front.
Do you have any tips for good body shells for that car?
Thanks and keep the great content coming!
Any Mini-Z 94mm wheelbase will work. Here's an example with Toyota GT86. ua-cam.com/video/U8kbobTW_10/v-deo.html
CS mod works on this car too. 1.875 is already good, 2.0 is OK but the steering angle starts to get too low for that. I'd say 2.0 CS is the most it can do.
Thanks for the awesome vid, definitely going to go this route for my first drift build.
Also I was wondering if you could drop the front drive and use the gyro to build a RWD drifter? Would that work? I figured I could start with the AWD drive setup and then once I felt I got the hang of drifting in AWD I could convert it to RWD and learn with that. What do you think?
It can be a bit difficult with this chassis because you'll have to cut a lot of things out to make the sufficient steering angle and I'm not sure if the chassis can take it.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the reply! I think I'll give it go and see how much of the chassis I can preserve. Worst case scenario I can always make a new chassis if I break the original.
Well made video. Easy to understand. Verry afordable. Thats a sale for me. 👌👍
Great video!! Thankyou.
I'm gonna grab some of those Ray's wheels they look sick
Hi beaver, Will 30A brushed ESC work with this build? More specifically will it work with pretty much 1S batteries?
I dont know much about ESCs other than it being a regulator for speed and power.
It depends on which 30A, you'll have to check if it supports 1S or 3.7-4.2V. The one I have doesn't work well but after I bought it some people got a different board so it's quite random. Anyway, for a 1S you can use the red board 20A, it'll work without any problem and it's more than enough,
@@BeaversHobby so i ended up getting a 10A ESC. I got to setting it up. Issue i got was its faster on reverse than forward throttle. I searched the board's name LS-L4015D V2, found products one in bangood, saw ur name.. and another guy who might have the same issue. (So much for being a 10A as it was advertised on where i bought it lol).
Based on ur review on banggood, how did u manage to use/find it well btw? Curious as it may solve my problem.
@@jonokami2138 Sorry to hear that. Banggood change that product pretty much every batch. What I got also different than the one I had before from the same link. So I think I was just lucky to get a good batch. I assumed a newer one would be better than the old but it turns out that it's not the case.
The other one you can try is DumboRC 10A. I'm not sure if it's on banggood or Aliexperss right now.
Please explain to me about the capacitors on the motor. I understand that its to filter out electrical noise. But I thought that 2,4GHz system didn't suffered from this the same way old FM/AM systems did?
Oh and also. If you could only do one of these upgrades (and the electronics the car came with actually works out of the box). Which one would you choose?
It is true that 2.4GHz should not get interference from the noise easily but it's better safe than sorry so do it for precaution is pretty much a standard practice.
The one upgrade that matter the most for drifting is front one way. I'll make drifting much easier. Springs are cheap so you should get that as well. Wheels and tyres are optional but nice upgrade nontheless.
Oops, that was 3. Anyway, do the front one way first.
@@BeaversHobby that sounds very reasonable. Thank you again!
@@zeno6111753 My pleasure.
Hi! The stock motor work with 2 cell lipo? Thanks..
Where did you buy the Mini-Q Q7 rims, or at least what brand/model are they? They look so good!
They are Rays TE37 wheels made by Route 246. I got them from Banzaihobby. Here they are bit.ly/2IuAcII .
What I have are offset 1, narrow for all corners.
There are other offsets too and also wide wheels.
ps. TE37 looks good on any car.
Hi Beaver, when you upgrade the electronics, can you not keep the old servo? I have an extra 3-in-1 circuit board from mini-q q7, do you think I can use it to upgrade trq1? Or are they not precise enough?
The original servo is 5 wires and not compatible with standard 3 wires system so I had to upgrade it. Q7 board is also 3 wire as standard RC component. You can also transplant servo board from a broken 3 wire servo in to it and not upgrade the servo too, like this. ua-cam.com/video/GDukjyycyxo/v-deo.html
I bought a trq1, I see that the wheels rotate at the same time the front and rear wheels. How to make the rear wheels spin faster than the front wheels?
Here's how you mod the spur gear + rear gear. ua-cam.com/video/pZxPKXgPvt0/v-deo.html
And here's how you mod the diff to fit. ua-cam.com/video/t6PiUq-_9lI/v-deo.html
I know this is a year later, but that triple A battery tray is using a ph2 no? I could switch the harnesses around and use my 1s tiny whoop batteries right?
Battery plug is XH 2.5.But you can always make an adapter.
Beaver's Hobby is there any way you can point me to a low profile receiver mod? I’m not fond of that bulky set up with plugs and all, coming from quadcopters and all
@@amszulu You can replace the plugs with JST-ZH 1.5mm or use something that has that plug already like this. ua-cam.com/video/_AAYvjIITiw/v-deo.html
Some servos also already come with ZH plug because it's the standard plug in 1/28 racing.
Beaver's Hobby that’s perfect actually! I’m a total noob so I would like to have some gyro. I’ve got the stock trq1 on the way, so I’m trying to piece together my mods list
@@amszulu Gyro for GMR receiver will come later but right now if you want onboard gyro Radiolink RC4GS has receivers with build-in gyro. Well, it's a bit big but you can always replace the plugs.
Can i use batery lipo 1s 3,7v for default esc or my esc burn
Yes, you can use 1S lipo with the standard ESC.
@@BeaversHobby thanks nice info. how much for volt limit esc default miniq
@@IYNGAME Around 6V.
Hello do you also have recommendations for a racing configuration for this car and also is there a way to get more steering or at least whit my car it can go a little bit further but it doesn’t when I have the steering trim all the way to the right and to the left it does go that tiny bit further
For racing config, use Mini-Z or Mini-Q ball differentials instead of front one way and rear solid axle. Use Mini-Z radial tyres instead of drift tyres. Swap front and rear springs from this setup, basically you'll use front hard and rear soft for touring.
As for the small steering angle, it's a problem from the new board version. You can try and use new servo horn that is longer (buy a new 5g servo just to get the horn) then lift the servo up to accommodate that length. Otherwise, upgrade the electronics just like in this video.
@@BeaversHobby tank you i got rubber tyres from aliexpress to try out it should be 19 mm inside diameters and the wheel it self i got the white 6 spoke whit some extra drift tyres and the crosswrench i also am going to get a different body from alliexpress it kinda looks like a peugeot rally car with a wide body kit in yellow so white rims black tyres or white tyres and the balldiferentials from banggood i already have bought the swing shafts and but i will have to wait for them now busy whit trouble shooting my fpv drone as well
@@Retrograde99 Check the wheelbase of that body too. You need 94mm wheelbase for this car.
@@BeaversHobby Rc Mosquito Plastic Hard Shell is the name of the body i finally found it again after some search and it is 94mm
Love your channel the most around mini car world. Thanks for this tutorial, learnt a lot! I noticed that the servo has 5 wires. How does this servo adapted to a standard receiver? Is the power HD 1600 precise enough for drifting? Would you pls make a episode about different electronic sets from different price level? Thank you for your effort! Wish you come back soon.
You can install servo controller from another 3 wires servo to 5 wires too. Essentially 3 wires servo are 5 wires with controller.
Power HD is precise enough for drifting but it's not tough so if you crash a bit hard it'll break.
Thanks for the suggestion about different servo. I'm trying to come up with an easy to understand way to do comparing standard servo with one very expensive that I just got from XRX.
Do you know why the D.I.Y. kit is more expensive I plan on a drift build like this I just wanted to know if there is any perks with the DIY over the TRQ1
It's the same chassis. DIY has grip tyres as far as I know but you can buy Q1 grip version too so there's no difference.
Another great video Beaver. Do you know if this chassis is the same as the Rage Mini Q?
Yes, it's the same. I mentioned it in my review too. ua-cam.com/video/5Z-S6d10na4/v-deo.html
Hi,thanks for the great video,it really helpfull for beginner like me..i was wondering do u have any recomendations where to buy the body for this rc?
It's 94mm wheelbase so you can choose them from Mini-Z. I bought most of my bodies from Banzaihobby. Here's link to unpainted bodies. bit.ly/2CGgozp
You can check the wheelbase here. Look for 94mm. kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/
And here's how to mount a Mini-Z body on this car.
EP1. ua-cam.com/video/U8kbobTW_10/v-deo.html
EP2. ua-cam.com/video/-kKLbRNrDxY/v-deo.html
Wow,thank you very much!keep uploading great video like this bro
@@pramonsudjana6694 By pleasure.
@@BeaversHobby hi i just got mine and there's already a problem. The servo wont turn if i turn the steering wheel on the remote but if i just adjust the st/trm on the remote,the the servo will turn right or left. Do u have any idea which part should i replace?
@@pramonsudjana6694 Check the ST/DR dial, turn it to the right to increase the steering limit.
I purchased this car currently waiting for it into to mail. I just want my car to look good first I really like the rims and was thinking it just needs a more realistic body. How hard is it to put a kyosho mini z body on one?
***i really like the rims you used in this video
@@natesimasek The rims are standard Mini-Z rims so you can find it easily. It's not hard to fit Mini-Z body either. Just shave the chassis off a bitnat the front so you can install front lip. Then on the body you grind side clips off until it fits on the chassis and at the back remove metal bar from original body to install it on the new one.
Beaver's Hobby thank you. Hopefully I can do this process when my trq comes in. Great video
Hello just wondering...what’s the reason to upgrade the sevo?
The original one is 5 wire system which isn't compatible with standard RC electronics I upgrade the car too.
Then the precision, that 5 wire isn't precise nor fast.
Beaver's Hobby thank you for your reply!
@@JimmyCNguyen My pleasure.
Can those shims be purchased at somewhere like Home Depot? I hate how long it takes for the parts to come in the mail
Probably. You can ask the nut&bolt supplier as well for the washers of these sizes.
6x8mm with 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm thickness (for differential)
3.3x4.5mm (or M3) with 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm thickness (for wheel hub & shaft)
bought the mechanical parts and right before to install them the car started to behave weird: sometime it won't back and steer, it just freezes. Do you guys have any idea what it is?
That's a problem from the circuit board. Try to put speed limiter to max, turn it off and on again and see if that still occur. Otherwise your board is on its way out.
thanks mate! can the standard bord be bought separate?
@@the_real_stingfloyd Unfortunately, no. I have seen an old board in hobbyking but I'm not sure if it'd work with Q1 transmitter. It's better to upgrade it to separated unit if the board goes bad.
Hi Beaver! wich bearings do this car needs? Can you had a link in the part list?
Here you go.
- 8 of 3x7x2mm for the wheel hubs.
- 4 of 6x10x3mm for the differentials.
- 2 of 2x5x2.5mm for the prop shaft.
Excellent video! So, question: if I have the Flysky GT3B - can that work with the gyro? If not, you said you don't use the gyro when you drive, does that mean that gyro compatibility with the receiver isn't necessary? I would love to follow this video exactly but want to use my existing receiver. Thanks!
The gyro I have in this is the onboard gyro integrated in to the receiver from the Radiolink system. If you use GT3B normally it doesn't have that. But you can install separated gyro unit like what I have in my RWD drift car. Here it is. bit.ly/2LAH1ND
You can do the same as I do in this video except your receiver is going to look a bit different than mine. The difference is you will sticking the plug in to same channel but not the same position because Flysky has CH1 at the bottom but Radiolink has CH1 at the top, that's it.
Everything is the same except for the part that I calibrate & setup gyro. Because Flysky standard receiver doesn't have gyro.
Recently I saw the new receiver for GT3B that has integrated gyro. The gyro setup procedure is of course going to be different but at least you have it in your receiver and don't have to install a separate unit. Check this out if you don't want to have wires going everywhere. bit.ly/2K0vsuS
By the way, I have no idea how to adjust this unit or how to reverse the gyro direction which you will most likely need.
@@BeaversHobby That new receiver looks perfect, thanks for the link! Banggood links to a PDF manual of it. The manual shows how to reverse the gyro. On the face of the unit in bright blue are two potentiometers which are not described in the manual. ST GAIN and TH GAIN. ST GAIN is probably steering gain, would TH GAIN be throttle gain?
@@darkNiGHTS0 I think TH gain is the same as Spektrum AVC system where it manages the throttle as well as steering when the car swings. In other words, it reduces the throttle when the car slides.
Hey, I need help.
My rc is don't driving straight.
If I accelerate, the rear is break out to right and the car drives on a circle
Check the steering trim on the radio first. It should go straight when you run slowly forward. And then check that the wheels are not overtighten or loosen so the handling is all over the place. Check if all the wheels touch the ground evenly as well, this can be fixed by loosen the top gearbox cover or suspension mount, wiggle it around then re-tighten it back.
@@BeaversHobby
I had checked it like you show.
With slowly forward and backward.
The wheels are not overtighten, I changed the wheels from round to flat.
Later I try the other possibilities. I make an video, that you see how the problem looks.
@@ademcakmak5538 Yes, seeing how it drives would make it better to diagnose the problem.
@@BeaversHobby
How can I send you an Video?
Or can I contact you in an other way, like whatsapp or something
@@ademcakmak5538 I don't have whatsapp. You can upload it on your youtube and send me the link in this comment section or my facebook.
Hi, this Sinohobby evo rc is RTR? I m new to rc hobby, thanks
Yes, it is RTR. There are a few with EVO body but if you look at the TRQ1 then yes, it's RTR.
@@BeaversHobby thank you😊
@@fwfefrtefdv4719 My pleasure.
มีประโยชน์มากครับ
Hello, I was wondering how it runs on an NCID battery instead of alkaline?
Unfortunately NiCd has very low power output so I don't think it would work.
@@BeaversHobby thank you!
@@BeaversHobby cheers mate, I'll probably just upgrade the electronics since I can't bothered with buying a 1s batteries. Also I would love to see you work on new projects on cheap 1/28 scale rc.
@@kcira8578 My pleasure. If you get some NiMH or any Eneloop-type (Ikea Ladda) those batteries will work too.
Nice viedeo! In you next video you can show us how you can easily tune a kyosho miniz with a lipo to have lighter power and more power.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm looking it to it.
Sorry for asking, is it i can put the drift tyre from ds racing to my tomy drift package light? Hope you can help. Thank you
I've never got Tony Drift Package before so I don't know. To fit the DS tyres, the wheels should look like what I show in this video. Here's what you can do. Check the wheels if the part where you put the tyre on is cylinder and not grooved.
Then check the diameter and width. If the diameter is 20mm and width is 8.5mm (narrow) or 11mm (wide) then you can fit DS tyres (and any Mini-Z tyres) on it.
@@BeaversHobby ok mate, many thanks
My pleasure.
Heya, I was wondering if you know of a differential for the rear of the Q1 I have the front one way but still have the standard rear diff still ,🤔 do you know what diff's will fit? , Thanks Beaver's Hobby
You can use Mini-Z solid axle or open up the original one you have and lock it.
Here's how you temporary lock it you can use glue instead of blu-tac to permanently lock the diff.
ua-cam.com/video/U23Xfz1czek/v-deo.html
Mini-Z solid axle www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-13-AL-Rear-Solid-Axle-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253336924294?
Please help me beaver, I have the new mini q brushed 20a esc with rc4gs. steering works perfectly and the car will run normally for about 3 seconds and then the esc no longer emits any noise and no throttle response no matter what I try in the settings it still cuts out shortly after. Is this because I am using the newer radiolink?
This sounds more like a problem form the ESC than the radio. You can try plugging the ESC into channel 1 to see if it works and you can control it with the steering. If that works then the receiver has broken channel 2. If doesn't work then the ESC just went bad or faulty.
Thank you very much mini q does not have the best quality control I will try this and let you know
Now the throttle only works when steering at same time??
@@benkomadina8827 No, they won't work at the same time. Basically you'll replace the steering servo with ESC to see if the ESC works by controlling it with steering. You can also plug the steering servo into channel 2 and see if you can move it with the trigger (throttle) as well. But I doubt it'd work since it very much looks like your ESC is faulty.
Here's how a radio works.
- Channel 1 is controlled by the steering on the radio.
- Channel 2 is controlled by the trigger or the throttle on the radio.
- Each channel output a signal to control a device that is connected to it.
So you'll be able to control only whatever you connect to that specific channel.
Very sorry for the confusion, I swapped the servo to channel 2 and and the esc to channel 1 and the roles were reversed however the esc will still shut off after spinning the wheels for a second or 2 using the steering knob. I put the servo and esc back and if I turn the steering and give it throttle it will engage the motor but not smoothly. Steering input =throttle? Should I just try generic esc and see if it operates normally
Wltoys swingshaft can fit?
Unfortunately, no. WLtoys' are a tad longer than Mini-Q and standard Mini-Z shafts.
You have a funny voice. I mean it in a positive way.
Can you make a review of the carbon fiber chassis for wltoys k989
Thanks for the suggestion. But this one I'll probably won't do because I saw how it goes with other people and don't think it'd worth it. Apart from being tiny bit lighter, handling wise it doesn't add anything to the car. Better save up for entire new chassis.
the shims/washers are hard to come by in Europe. Do you have any alternatives?
I did some of my shopping in rcparts.eu . Hopefully there are still some left.
www.rcparts.eu/spare-parts/kyosho-mini-z/shims-and-screws.html
Also if you have supply shop for nuts & bolts near you, you should check it out first. The stuffs that have "RC" label are always more expensive and hard to find. Look for washer with 6 inner diameter, 8mm outer diameter and 0.1,0.2 and 0.3mm thickness for the diff and 3mm inner diameter, 4.5mm outer diameter 0.1,0.2 and 0.3mm thickness in case you need some for the wheels.
If there's nothing locally, Mini-Z Racing Italia is there for you. www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=873_437
Good friends, I have been following your channel for a long time, the truth would be great if you had subtitles in Spanish, hahaha, here there is not so much information about cars 1/28 scale, I tell you I have a 1/28 wltoys and I use it for the drift I would like to know that other cars Do you advise me for this, another question is driving a rear better?
Wltoys is already a good car once you fix the drivetrain and suspension.
If you want to upgrade right now there are more choices for RWD drift car. I highly recommend HGD1 because it's easy to build and easy to drift without spinning out.
Or if you want to stay in AWD drift then Atomic AMZ with hyper steering upgrade is still an excellent choice. You can move the electronics from Wltoys to AMZ too.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you very much for answering then I will wait to buy an amz, the wltoys more or I manage it I have several videos of it on my channel hahaha it is very funny with what to fix transmission and suspension you refer to and thank you very much for the advice 👍
@@JMGPRC My pleasure. Good luck with the project and stay safe.
@@BeaversHobby thanks 👍
So I have a raidio shack xmods rc and I want to make it better hobby wise, can you help?
Unfortunately I don't know much about Xmods apart from it uses some king of 5 wire servo and a board so you can probably try and update the electronics to RC standard with 3 wire.
How to upgrade cs for kita miniq
There's CS kit available on Aliexpress.
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003114170557.html
You'll need rear gear with 14T as well. Choose 94mm wheelbase for TRQ1. www.aliexpress.com/item/4001047156489.html
Otherwise you can make the modification yourself like this. ua-cam.com/video/t6PiUq-_9lI/v-deo.html
Don't forget that you'll need the front one way for CS.
nice rc evo
What li-po batteries do you recommend? Buying AAA batteries is getting expensive. Thank you for the video btw! I'm trying to gather all the parts so that I can upgrade my car too. I love it!
Easiest one to get is Ikea rechargeable battery and charger. Look for LADDA AAA 900mAh. It's essentially Eneloop.
For lipo, Anything that fit in the tray will work. I really like Giant Power 2S 300mAh (doesn't work with original board). You'll need new charger if you haven't got one already.
@@BeaversHobby What do you mean it doesn't work with the original board? I don't have a charger at all since I'm currently using the AAA batteries.
@@erraddict I meant you'll need to find 1S lipo that fit the tray. Check out Hobbyking and you can select the size of the battery. What I use, which is 2S won't work with the original board.
Also you'll need a charger for Lipo too.
You can also buy rechargeable AAA with charger from Ikea, they are really good.
@@BeaversHobby Oh, so it's just a physical size limitation? I was thinking about the plug that goes into the car
what's the easiest way to get more steering angle?
File the stopper off from the steering column. You can see where the full lock is then slim those parts down.
Did it work (@Beaver's Hobby suggestion)?
@@BeaversHobby What do you suggest? I'm not understanding what do you mean by "stopper off from the steering column"
@@mir4gem There's a plastic piece on each side that stops the steering column from moving in further. You can file those off. However if you got the new batch of TRQ1 the problem is at the electronics. It just won't turn the servo.
@@BeaversHobby ah.. now I get it. But yes, it's the black version, I think other people have complained the same issue. The plastic you say doesn't block anything, it's the servo that turns just a litle bit. I need to replace it. AFRC-D1802 mini servo 3.7 6.0 v 5g JR plug, right?
Can I use 1s lipo for the original esc? Will it gain any performance (it is lighter but only 3.7v?)
Yes, you can use 1S with original ESC. The car will be lighter and a bit more nimble.
I don't notice any difference in speed between 1S and AAA batteries though.
@@BeaversHobby thanks alot
@@philipcheng2415 My pleasure.
เเนะนำของเเต่งอลู k989 หน่อยพี่ กระเเสกำลังมาอีกแล้ว
เปลี่ยนฮับอลูกับโช๊คทาวเวอร์ก็พอครับ ที่เหลือสร้างปัญหามากกว่าทำให้ดีขึ้น ขนาดฮับใส่แล้วรถยังเตี้ยลงเลย เพราะหัวบอลมันขยับได้ไม่มาก
พึ่งกดสั่งจาก banggood ไปเดือนหน้าแหนะกว่าจะได้ของ แต่ถ้าหน่อยครับถ้าเบื่อๆดริฟแล้วแปลงไปเป็นทัวร์ริ่งได้ไหมอะรุ่นนี้
แปลงได้ครับ เอาดิฟเฟืองใส่ หรือจะเอาบอลดิฟใส่ก็ได้ แล้วเปลี่ยนยางเป็นยางกริป (ยางหนึบ) ก็ใช้ได้เลยครับ
ในเฟสผมเพิ่งอัพเดตให้ดูวันนี้ แปลงทัวริ่งลงบรัชเลส
facebook.com/beavershobby/photos/rpp.1979091059009879/2304552913130357/?type=3&eid=ARCjbXL0OdZNrNOByeq-IJSEu3j4tkxtWAyGnMiuf87TRkbfugUDQXf9X5F_Z9OIrNyi3Ke9MWvH9Ve1
แนะนำแบตเตอรี่ ที่จะเอามามาใช้แทนถ่ายหน่อยครับ
@@captainjoe3278 ถ้าใช้บอร์ดเดิม หา 1S Lipo ขนาดกว้างxยาว ไม่เกิน 2.5ซม. x 5ซม. ครับ เล็กกว่านี้ก็ดีเพราะเผื่อสายไฟหนา
ประมาณ 500-700mAh ส่วนใหญ่น่าจะพอดีกับกรอบ
ถ้าอัพชุดไฟแล้ว ลง 2S ได้เลยครับ 400mAh ขึ้นไปก็โอเคแล้ว
Will that oneway work in mini z
Yes, however I don't really recommend it because the gear is very sharp and so far it has chewed my pinion out really badly (nearly killed my MA-030 AWD pinion too). Wait for genuine Mini-Z oneway is back in stock is a better option.
It would be nice to have a before tuning and after comparison.
The before is in my review.
INEVITABLE INEVITABLE!
how much did this build cost?
I only paid about $8 for the springs that I didn't have, all the rest are what I have already.
However if you just started and don't have any part nor radio and washers, everything + shipping are about $119.
The most expensive stuff is Radiolink RC4GS for $54. Otherwise if you already have radio it'll be $65.
If you get 3Racing swing shafts instead of Mini-Q you'll save a bit because they are both cheaper and don't need shim.
Any upgrades for chassis?
Carbon & Ali upgrades?
Thanks
There's a carbon version of this chassis too but you'll spend on the chassis as much as buying a new car. If you want to upgrade it will be like complete overhaul or move your diff, wheels & electronics to the new chassis. You might as well buy an Atomic AMZ at this point.
Where can I find the carbon ? I don't mind paying
@@benweddup552 Personally I suggest getting the Atomic AMZ instead. It's $65 exclude shipping. What you'll get here is essentially the first Mini-Z AWD killer with sophisticated double wishbone suspension, great ball differential (best I've ever used), grease shocks (work like oil shock in big cars) it'll stick in the corner like a glue. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_1037_1040&products_id=13054
However if you insist on building or converting TRQ1 to carbon plate chassis, here's the parts you need and estimated cost.
But I have to tell you that basically you will turn this car in to Mini-Q Q5. Which is an old chassis with old style suspension that can't handle hi-speed cornering.
Mini-Q Carbon Chassis $48 hobbyking.com/en_us/camber-adjustment-set-update-version.html?wrh_pdp=7
You'll need front knuckle: $5.57 hobbyking.com/en_us/hybrid-front-steering-block-version-2-turnigy-tz4-awd-drift-spec.html
Then you'll need servo bracket $1.41 hobbyking.com/en_us/servo-mount-turnigy-tz4-awd.html
Battery brackets (you need 2 parts, inner and outer bracket ~$2
hobbyking.com/en_us/battery-holder-a-turnigy-tz4-awd.html
hobbyking.com/en_us/battery-holder-inner-turnigy-tz4-awd.html?wrh_pdp=7
Front steering rods $4.23 hobbyking.com/en_us/strengthened-adjustable-steering-tie-rod-set-turnigy-tz4-awd-drift-spec.html
Rear knuckle + toe arm $5.47 www.banggood.com/SINOHOBBY-Mini-Q5-RC-Car-Spare-Parts-Steering-Hub-Set-V28-018Z-p-1063469.html
Front centre shaft holder $0.9 hobbyking.com/en_us/front-axis-tray-turnigy-tz4-awd.html?wrh_pdp=3
Motor mount ~$10 www.aliexpress.com/item/32689749595.html
Total of $77 exclude shipping.
Additional parts are not expensive, they just never in stock. But you can get aluminium parts from the same source as the motor mount. So actually you are looking at around $100 to get an outdated car.
Beaver's Hobby thank you very much for this.. I'll be ordering these parts next week , I like the car even though it's old☺️
Also I've been trying to order the amz without success as nowhere has one in stock, I'm in UK and assumed it was easy to find...
Any shops you can suggest.?
Thanks again for all your help
Regards
Ben😉👍🏻
@@benweddup552 Try your local Mini-Z tracks. I think they should have AMZ. Otherwise wait for it to be back in stock in RCmart. Miracle mart can be an ar*e sometimes.
By the way, there's also a complete carbon + aluminium Mini-Q rolling chassis in Aliexpress link that I sent you as well. So you don't have to hunt down all the parts one by one. All that left to do is moving your electronics to that chassis.
Would this one way diff fit in the wltoys k989
Yes, it fits. But you'll need long drive shafts too because Wltoys is wide chassis. ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Black-1-Pair-Long%29.html
Here's how to install long shaft.
ua-cam.com/video/BLAHvTAa6nM/v-deo.html
And this is my K989 drift build. ua-cam.com/video/zB3pUN9XiSw/v-deo.html
@@BeaversHobby thanks a lot for the help, your videos are awesome
@@munkeynutzmcgraw4680 My pleasure.
Whhat about the esc tho how do i change the battery plug sry if i sound rude
You'll have to change the plugs to be the same as on the battery tray and motor. This car uses JST-XH 2.5mm 2 pin on both. Cut the old plugs out and solder new ones to it.
Thanks for the frist question and also what if the one way does not have shims
Sorry if i am too annoying for asking so much questions
@@hwelp You'll have to get the shims separately. The size is 6mm inner diameter and 8mm outer diameter, thickness between 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm. Basically 6x8x0.2mm washers. I got mine from Atomic. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_322_488&products_id=6103
ps. Don't worry about the questions. You can ask whatever you like.
Ok thanks. I just recently found the wprld of mini rc drift and it seemed really cool so wanted one and the trq1 seemed like a pretty good cat and i want to make it for drifting and i saw that you use front one way and i just realised now that you linked the items below but the shims were from another site. I know that atomic is a trusted site but i still try to find it somewhere else. I found shims 6×8mm shims on amazon that looked like the one in the vid but i was worried it wouldnt fit so i asked if the shims were needed. Thanks for answering my questions :D
Idk why my phone corrects car as cat
I have a wl12428 1/12 scale i thought i could use its battery
Awesome! Thank you beaver!!
Hello guy can you give a link to buy the bearings for trq1 thanks
You can search for these bearings on other websites.
- 3x7x2mm bearings, needed 8 for the wheel hubs.
- 6x10x3mm bearings, needed 4 for the differentials.
- 2x5x2.5mm bearings, needed 2 for the prop shaft.
Here are what I can find.
www.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-Ball-Bearings-3x7x2mm-Replacement-Ball-Bearings-Kit-Shielded-Ball-Bearings/333769629995?
www.ebay.com/itm/10-MR106ZZ-6x10x3mm-P0-ABEC1-Deep-Groove-Ball-Miniature-Bearing-Gcr15/174286910806
www.ebay.com/itm/MR52ZZ-2x5x2-5mm-Double-Shielded-Miniature-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-682ZZ/163307396887
@@BeaversHobby tranks
@@rillettes5ivet852 My pleasure.
Brushless?
Put brushless motor in and use brushless ESC instead of brushed. That's it.
What is your suggested size for Brushless?
@@454charing The only size that will fit is 1410 or 1625 (depends on the brand, they are the same dimensions)which is equivalent to 130 size for brushed motor.
Here's my brushless setup. ua-cam.com/video/7tq9JoxmZU8/v-deo.html
You can find the list of motor in my review. ua-cam.com/video/5Z-S6d10na4/v-deo.html
ขอบคุณมากครับเยี่ยมมากครับ
Awesome video 💪💪👌👌👌🔥 🔥
your rc car is much better, how much it is?
Everything + Shipping is about $119 including the car.
How much is it all in
Everything + Shipping is about $119.
The most expensive item is Radiolink RC4GS which is $54. Otherwise if you already have a radio then it'll be $65.
If you buy 3Racing swing shafts instead of Mini-Q you'll save a bit more because they are both cheaper and don't need shim.
Also ESC is quite expensive in Banggood so you can find a 20A ESC from ebay for about $3.5.
@@BeaversHobby Can all the parts be shipped to the uk
@@karenbaxter2706 Yes, Banggood and all the shops I bought from have international shipping.
@@BeaversHobbyWhat miniature RC drift car would you recommend for £80
@@karenbaxter2706 Either Mini-Q TRQ1 or WLtoys K969/K989.
TRQ1 is a good chassis but electronics is fragile (that's why I replaced everything in this video). This one is a gamble. If the circuit board holds up it will be the best car to start. Other components are quite durable. Overall it doesn't drive as well as WLtoys and it doesn't have much headroom to modify.
WLtoys is the fastest in the budget category and has a lot of headroom to upgrade and modify. However the plastic is brittle and gears wear out very quickly.
K989 and K969 are essentially the same car.
K989 is rally/touring because it comes with open gear diff and grip tyres.
K969 is labelled as drift car because it comes with solid axles (permanently locked diffs) and drift tyres.
Choose whichever body you like because you'll want to change the tyres anyway and a differential can be locked later.
However it will need a bit of fixing to get it to work. I have entire video series for that. But just to get it working properly, follow episode 1 and 2. ua-cam.com/play/PLS79G3YjA2fAEez9GVeLW3JIy_LUIb6Mb.html
In conclusion, you have to choose between dodgy electronics from TRQ1 or fragile gears from WLToys.
What was the final cost?
I only paid about $8 for the springs that I didn't have, all the rest are what I have already.
However if you just started and don't have any part nor radio and washers, everything + shipping are about $119.
The most expensive stuff is Radiolink RC4GS for $54.
Otherwise if you already have radio it'll be $65.
If you get 3Racing swing shafts instead of Mini-Q you'll save a bit because they are both cheaper and don't need shim.
For bare minimum you can just get the car and front one way and that will be $56.
Beaver's Hobby alright thank you for the info $120 not too bad. I really want to get into rc drifting but it’s really expensive in the 1/10 scale so I’m hoping to get into it at the 1/28 scale. I’m glad I found you channel you’re very informative !
Beaver's Hobby if I paid you commission and shipping would you be able to build me one and ship it me? If you’re interested I’ll send you my email
@@trillnugz4277 Sorry, I don't build car for sale.
Beaver's Hobby in your original review you said that the 3 in 1 unite fired in this car. Should I worry that that will happened to me or was it because you were pushing it in the speed test?
Another great video thx :)
Total price?
Including the car and tool to remove the wheels, about $119. This includes all the upgrades and new radio too. If you already have that the cost will go down another $54.
@@BeaversHobby That's very expensive for such a small car.
@@oliviergoggins Yes, it's expensive if you go all out with the upgrades. As I said a decent transmitter costs $54 and that's where the most spending goes to.
But if you get only the car and treat it well, you won't have to change a thing unless you want to upgrade.
Still, this is the cheapest car to upgrade to a full blown drift car. Mini-Q Q7 (best AWD drift right now) starts at $120. If you want RWD drift, Atomic DRZ only chassis costs $129, with some electronics it costs $199 and you'll have to buy literally everything extra from wheels, body, etc. to battery and charger.
Small size doesn't make the bill smaller.
none if the links work😢
All the parts has been either updated or discontinued. I'll try to update the links and let you know.
Amanzing mod
Its on sale for 35 bucks and less on banggood now.
Be careful because some people got the car with limited steering (problem with the board) and it won't drift.
แล่มเป็ด ^^
Mate can I buy this from you 😭 I pay you !
This car, sadly, has been dismantled for other projects.
@Beaver, so which metal drive draft is perfect fit without shim or file. I saw you once recommended the one from Aliexpress,link below.. Is it perfect fit? Is this also same as the 3racing's one you recommended.
m.aliexpress.com/item/32949670507.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail
I think you said the one from Banggood needs a lot of shims.
Edited: i watched your video again, you said the mini z from 3racing one would be perfect fit without shim.
I just bought the front one way you suggested from banggood.
Btw, with everything stock i already very satisfied with the way it drift. Will see how this simple mod will do. Thanks
3Racing or Eagle Racing drive shaft will work well without shims.
Yes, just upgrade drive shaft and one way and probably wheels & tyres if you want more control.
The whole thing I did with electronics here was because the board was burnt.
@@BeaversHobby thanks. 3racing one is restocking. The Eagle racing is that the link from your Rcgroup blog's one on ebay. Is that $11 for 4 dog bone. It doesn't specify, but the picture shows 4 of them.
So the blue and red ones from Aliexpress are not perfect fit, aren they?
@@Ykev2000 Red and blue from Aliexpress is a gamble. You might get one that the shaft might be shorter, longer or thicker than it should be. You can try though but I don't guarantee the result or how would it fit.
Eagle racing is a set of 4, it has has long and short shafts. I'm not sure which one you found. This is link for short shaft. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-10S-ST-Universal-Joint-Shaft-S-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253151171525
@@BeaversHobby thanks a lot. I will buy the Eagle one. Do you know if it includes the nuts. My TQR1 came with screws instead of nuts. Probably the newer version only comes with screws.
@@jp7g229 M2 lock nut. If you get steel nuts you'll need 4mm hex wrench. If you get aluminium nuts they will be 4.5mm. Get a 2 dollars cross wrench and it'll have every tip you need.
New shervo
Just buy a better one. Forget the modding
he is rupees
(Lisp)les see wats in the car and probabe tires shp shp shp shp
The fuck? thats not budget at all, it was very funny the "don't use lipo because it is more expensive" then you use a douzen of metal upgrade parts, each one of them is twice the price of a lipo battery for that car lol-
wait buddet dift tar
Hey Mort come back to family guy
English please
Need to slow the video playback speed to understand your accent!
I know I'm hard to understand and that's why I have subtitle. You can turn the CC subtitle function on if you like.
Butcher English much?