Special Thanks to Fred Dodge for the 3D Printed guard rails. Time Stamps: Specs & Packages: 0:09 Building Tips: 3:01 Setup: 5:25 Test Drive: 6:59 Conclusion: 8:50
Saya sangat senang noton youTube anda... Saya hanya pengumpul barang bekas rc sudikah anda memberikan yang tak berharga, agar saya dapat melepas hobi saya, karna saya tak seberuntung anda tapi saya nerusaha 🤗🤗🤗
I was big into 1/10th had a glam yd2 and a yokomo dp the local track went bankrupt unfortunately and I don't have much space for them. Finding your videos really got me back into the hobby. Now I got 2 of these and I run them on my billiards table. I used MDF board and used a nice carpet for drifting on it and it's good fun.
By far the best mini rc channel in the world imo. Honest, very informative and the place to learn the nicest tips and tricks about mini rc. Thank you very much for all the great help you provide kind sir.
Excellent video my friend! I have been into micro losi 1/36 scale at the moment, I do have the WLtoys p929 and 959. This video has inspired me to get back into the Wl toys and I may have to pick one of these up! They look really awesome. Thanks for making these in depth videos on these micros, definitely inspired me. Thanks beaver 👍
Thanks for the mention. Always love watching your videos for accurate tips, love the little giggle that you had to use Toyota ae86. Gotta love the ae86. 👍🏽
Great review! I actually expected the DRZ to be easier to drive. I only just got a DRZ and haven't finished building it. Would be interested to see a review on the super skeeter DRZ or XRX, but those are a pretty large investment.
Agreed. I think it took me less time to set up HGD1 and impressed it handles well as 90mm. Still think drz is smoother once you get it set up correctly... But it does take more fiddling to set up. Im gonna have a look at xrx next. Can't face super skeeter yet. Building front bulkhead on Drz nearly broke my sanity. 😂
Looking at the Super Skeeter price and I could buy a whole XRX DPA... I think I'd go with XRX. DRZ is good as long as you don't go beyond what steering angle can work effectively. It's really smooth and I like that about it. I'll continue to tune HGD1 a bit more to see how much can I get out of it.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Haha luckily hadn't had much trouble with the front assembly. Just missing some parts and waiting for them to arrive. Hopefully can get it to handle better than my HGD1. Tuning and drifting RWD drift cars is too addictive xD
Nice review, as always. Just got one (frame only) and while I'm waiting for it to arrive, I'm just getting confused about what servo I need, "micro" or "mini" servo or just a "5g" servo? There seems to be many size variations in each category. Was looking into AFGRC A06CLS or A11CLS or the cheaper B05CLS.
Since I wasn't sure how much servo throw I would need, it's better to have more than less. I'll fix the steering anyway so we'll see if I will keep the spacer later.
Hey beaver's hobby, do you have a video of you adjusting the wheelbase? Also I need to see how the servo is mounted haha I got a metal chassis version on ali express, and it comes assembled without electronics or wheels. I am trying to figure out how to install stuff without losing all the screws haha it would be cool to see a video for it, but I understand youre probably working on other stuff by now.
Here are my build videos. These should help you with putting it together. Part 1 ua-cam.com/video/AvZPlJ7FweM/v-deo.html Part 2 ua-cam.com/video/556IAV8qefg/v-deo.html
This is awesome dude, once again youre the best! Anyways, I got my HGD1 in finally and I am trying to extend the wheelbase to fit this Tamiya 1/24 scale model body, I am super excited to get it up and running I hope the brushless motor/esc set I bought comes with a pinion! Do you suggtest metal or plastic pinion?
Normally the motor won't come with a gear but the car will. It'll be a plastic gear and that's perfectly fine. I prefer plastic to metal because it's easier to remove. And if the metal gear doesn't have good quality it will last the same as plastic.
This car is good for beginner but not because of gyro, it's because of massive steering lock that let you catch any drift. Gyro is necessary for RWD drifting and doesn't make it any easier for beginner. If this was an AWD car, yes, gyro will make it very easy.
Beaver you are doing a great job to promote this hobby. Please, let me make a question. My problem is this. I've: -flysky gt3c, esc and servos - mini q5 brushless: this one is not very good to drift because lot of potency and bad body componets (poorly shock absorber, and plastic diferentials and knuckles) - mini q trq1: i like this one but not very easy to change body shells or perfect to drift - i recently a firelap l408 because now is only 38€ and i have others body shell compatible with this model So now ive lots of trasmitter and diferent components but no one is enough to get a good experience. My Desire is use my gt3c and focus my efforts to one model. Mini z is hard to get components, usually are out o stock. For that reason i try to get a good banggod and get components easily. My questions are: 1)coud be this the best drift kit for me? 2)or: do you recomend me upgrade my other models? 3) could be better buy a wltoy k989 and upgrade it? I have a a989 and is a good car. Thanks a lot for your work.
Yes, Firelap IW04 or L408 can be a good drift car with a bit of upgrades. It also has very good compatibility with Mini-Z bodies too. I'd suggest you upgrade the bearings first, you can buy them off ebay, don't have to be from a Kyosho dealer. Here's the tutorial. ua-cam.com/video/hBfqVAzzc3U/v-deo.html Then since you already have a transmitter, you can get the Emax ES08MDII servo and a cheap ESC to overhaul the electronics. Here's the tutorial. ua-cam.com/video/qLM3Qh6kku4/v-deo.html Then you can upgrade the wheels and tyres to use Mini-Z tyers. I'm not sure if Japan open the air mail route to your country yet but check out banzaihobby for Mini-Z parts. Wheel set for every offset: bit.ly/2VeVZsc 1.5mm offset narrow wheels: bit.ly/2WSecRf Drift tyres: bit.ly/2I3a74k Wide drift tyres (in case you want to use wide wheels): bit.ly/2nZaLIw
Hello sir, i am really interrested in the hgd1, but i cannot find a shop that sells spare parts , in my expierience, rc cars brake every now and then...and the kit is to expensive to collect dust because of a broken axle or something. The support for atomic drz is way better where i live,but it doesnt has an option for 90mm wheelbase,what limits the body selection quite a bit...Is there any information on the company that produces the hgd1 and if they are planning to release different Upgrades or spare parts? Really appriciate your Channel,already helped quite a lot,stay Save! Dominik
Unfortunately I don't know which manufacture made this car. However it's based on Mini-Q Q5OP so all the consumable parts are shared with Mini-Q and Mini-Z AWD. The parts you can't find are front bulkhead, servo mount, rear gear holder plate, side clip mounts and chassis plates which are almost impossible to break because they made of aluminium and carbon fibre. Unless you put 10500KV motor in and crash it into a wall at full speed that is... The things that can break like CVD, wheels, tyres, diff, spur gear are the same as Mini-Z AWD. All other parts are the same as Mini-Q. I'm sure this car will last, just like all Mini-Q does.
Thats a great review. Looks very interesting. Since you mentioned it, Can you make a video on how to use an Aoshima 1/24 body shell on this HGD1 Chassis. I think it would be an interesting video because Aoshima has lots of nice mods body.
Absolutely. I'm looking at how to import that sexy FD RE Amemiya. If that doesn't happen then I'll have to settle with something like M5 I can find locally. Or a Trabant... that would be quite funny.
Yes, it looks really well designed. I kind of question the durability though (I have had bad experience with 3D printed chassis) but as far as the design goes, really good. Another interesting 3D printed chassis is PWK V2 which is designed for minimal scrub radius.
Hi. Does the budget Radiolink receiver feature the same options for limiting steering, gyro, etc? Also, it will work with the kit that includes the brushless motor? Thank you. I love your videos. They keep inspiring me to learn about 1/28 scale drift cars.
Nice review. Looks like a lot of fun. Too bad it's pretty expensive.. 240 euros for a 1/28th scale is pretty steep even though the quality seems very good.
trie to put a ruber bandconectin the knuckles on the sterin link point from knuckle to knuckle, the ruber band tension will take all the slop away, that is what i do on my 1/10 scale cars rhat have some slop
The motor size is called 130 in general. There are many names for brushless, 1410, 1625, 1525 and 1626. They are all the same size anyway. The best budget set is Surpass Rocket V2 3500KV or 5500KV depending on how big is your track. For small track under 3M width 3500KV will do fine. Otherwise 5500KV will give you more speed for larger track. Of course you can get the fast one (5500KV) and use a smaller pinion to tune as well. As for the ESC it depends on where you are, for some DasMikro V3 on Aliexpress is cheaper and for the others PN Racing V2 is cheaper. Pick either one you can buy. They both use Hobbywing program and are very good.
Basically the same car but with plastic knuckles and some other plastic bits. I don't know if it's from the same manufacture but it's a cheaper option than getting a full aluminium chassis.
Great video man . I still can't decide between this and the DRZ . Both are expensive .... do you think it is possible to fix the slop in the steering ?
WLtoys original electronics has a limited servo throw I think it's from the built-in receiver. If you plug it to another receiver you can make it move more with EPA (end point setting) if the transmitter has it. As for RWD drift, normally we just extend the servo horn so the movement is bigger.
The body mount parts are from the body. The front lips are unique to each car. You'll get all of the necessary parts when you buy a body so there's nothing to worry about.
Hello Mr. Beaver I'm a middle grade student from south Korea, and Iove your videos because it is really detailed. Please keep doing this :) I want to get into micro drifting, because I want to drive it at home. Since I am new, I want to get some advices from you. My first question is that what do you prefer? -Brushless kit or brushed kit? Also, these kits include all things that I need, but except for the radio and the receiver. My second question is that I have a "futaba 3pv", which is the best radio that I have... Do you know which receiver / micro receiver that fits futaba 3pv at micro drifting car? If nothing fits, then what radio and receiver do you prefer? (I cannot buy expensive ones, so can you pick a cheap one?) -is it the one on the description link? Third, is Hgd1 noisy? I'm going to run it at home, and I live at a apartment, so I am not able to run it if it is noisy;; Lastly, is making the kit hard? I'm a noob at making these cars, so... I hope it is not to hard THANK YOU FOR MAKING ALL THESE WONDERFULL VIDEOS!!!
Brush VS brushless depends on the kit you get. If it's HGD1 then brushed is a safer choice because generally brushless ESC that comes with this kit is not that good. Anyway, getting the brushless and change the ESC later on is also a good option. It depends on whether you want to spend a bit more for a better ESC or not. If you plan to keep it as it is, brushed. If you are willing to change the ESC later, brushless and it'll be better in the long run too. For other cars or if you can choose the ESC yourself, brushless is better. Futaba 3PV is good, no need to change that. The original receiver will work if the body is big enough to accommodate it. There's micro receiver for it too, here it is. bit.ly/2Xcwv2D Talking about noise; the drivetrain itself is quiet. However the thing that makes noise with this kind of car is the plastic tyres rubbing on the floor. If you have a wooden floor, forget it. It'll be extremely loud. You'll have to lay down some carpet or EVA mats to drift. As for rubber tiles that I have, it's not loud. Building HGD1 is not hard. However you'll need to look at the Mini-Q exploded diagram because it doesn't come with a manual. If you can, get some other car like Atomic DRZ V2 or GL Racing GLD. Those are much better cars as well and they are not hard to build and the manuals are very well-written which makes it much easier for a first time builder.
The spares are available on Alexpress. Still, most of the parts are cross-compatible with Mini-Q and Mini-Q and also the ball links are standard parts for any car so you can get those pretty easily.
I have 2 x 1/10 drift rc, and I'm thinking of buying a 1/28th, I've seen now you have reviews of so many chassis, if you were getting into it now, which would you buy? HGV2, Atomic, GLRacing, DriftArt?
DriftArt3 all the way. Atomic DRZ V3 also seems to be a good car although I haven't tried it yet. GLD is alright if you are OK with doing some upgrades. Anyway, with your experience from 1/10 DriftArt's tricky build should pose no problem to you. It will deliver the best out of the box driving experience.
Hey beaver, do you think the HGD1 will be compatible with the mini q9 front and rear gear box to convert it to a HGD2? I’m trying to accomplish individual suspension like the new HGD2
I'll have to re-check it but as far as I remember the gearbox is slightly different between kingpin suspension versions (Q3-Q6) and the wishbone suspension (Q7, Q9... which is cloned Q7). The front conversion is going to be difficult since it doesn't allow much steering angle on Q7/Q9. The most you can do is make the rear double wishbone.
This HGD1 is the current Q8 RWD, it's alright. You can get Atomic DRZ V2, GL Racing GLD and BMR-X at roughly the same price so I recommend those instead. They are much better.
You can still find it on aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000751651146.html But you can also get other cars at around the same price that's better than this like Atomic DRZ V2.
@@BeaversHobby I thought about the wltoys k969 and some rubber tires. just trying to get into the mini class and want something hyprid to not spend to much money.
@@BobBobsta Yes, K969 or K989 is the best in the budget category. It has a lot of room to modify as well so definitely go with that. I'd say K989 is better because it comes with open diff that can be locked for drifting. K969 comes with locked diff for drifting and will struggle if you want to drive normally or touring.
@@BobBobsta Here is why a car needs differentials, just at the beginning and you'll get the idea. ua-cam.com/video/ci54dkbc_Bc/v-deo.html Locked diff is for drifting because there's no difference between 2 wheels and all the wheels get the same amount of power keeping them spinning to provide constant sliding especially with AWD.
No, it's not. But you can use some M2 screws, M2 standoff and magnets with hole in the middle to make your own magnet mount like this one. ua-cam.com/video/-kKLbRNrDxY/v-deo.html
Thanks for making all these really informative videos. Now that the HRC Arena GL Racing GLD is out, how does the HGD1 compare with with the GLD? BTW is the gyro basically the same thing as the HackSlider YE-0025?
GLD is much easier to drift and very pleasant to build. However the parts quality can be a bit ropy as I was unlucky enough to get every known defects on my car. However it's undeniably a great car with pinpoint accuracy handling. Here's my first test drive with broken parts. ua-cam.com/video/7XhP6Y7CHRs/v-deo.html I'm still editing the fix video and will have to film some driving as well to complete it. And yes, the Hackslider V2 is the same as this gyro. Now there's V3 with EPA setting so get that one instead. Mine is with AFRC badge. ua-cam.com/video/qksr7-hSE0I/v-deo.html I think YeahRacing will have the update as well.
The tool for camber is the same one on 1/10. I think I got it with Yeah Racing brand or something like this www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-3-in-1-camber-gauge-bu-for-all-1-8-and-1-10-on-road-cars-yt-0056bu-00030118 . You'll need to be careful because small cars are difficult to measure. As for the toe angle, I use this setup sheet (page 23) www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR3Wpns2hQkXcM5BF2PG22oDGho00WlTlaavE87bCyEDYr9e7YppoAxq75Y . You can also draw a straight line on a paper, put the car on it in parallel and then use ruler to draw the wheel angle then measure that with a protractor.
Hey Beav, what is the best battery to use on these? I cant tell what I got with my kit as its blank. Want a battery that is super strong to slide better on carpet (hoping). Would I want 60C+? Hard to find small batteries with high C. If you have a suggestion im all ears!!
You don't really need 60C because even the battery can delivery that, the wire can't. I normally use Marka 350mAh 50C and I doubt it even draws that much. Burst, probably but 40C will be alright. If you need more power take a look at GNB HV. I have some 350mAh 7.6V and they are great. There are larger capacity too like 450mAh in case you want more run time.
I wound up tryin these 450mah Blomiky's that are only 25c and tbh it feels fine. Ill try a stronger battery though to see if it really makes a difference. Next goal is to figure out how to get more stability on the steering arms.. I knew of the issue before I got it in hopes I could fix it but cant figure it out xD @@BeaversHobby
Yes, certainly. You can get a brushed system. A FK130 motor with DumboRC 10A ESC should not cost more than $15. If you prefer brushless system then Surpass Rocket motor is what you need. It's about $22-25 a piece and I recommend DasMikro ESC, it'll be about $30-40. However if you are OK with having a big ESC then Hobbywing EZrun 18A will cost about $20-25. Do not get the Surpass Rocket combo, while motor is great, ESC is the worst you can get. As for the gyro, you can't really skimp on this one. Get something like AGF-GY04M or AFRC GYS-2 V3. It'll cost around $30-40 but it'll be all you'll ever need.
I find brushed motor smoother at low rev. The brushless motor that is smooth is expensive because you'll have to get a sensored system. Sensorless will have either little cogging in the low rev or starting speed is a bit higher. However brushless has better power delivery so once you punch it you can feel the torque coming in hard.
Hey Beaver! Thanks for your great Videos! Do you think the K989 electronic will fit in the cheapest hgd1 chassie without the electronic parts? Thanks a lot!
Yes, you can use most parts from Mini-Q Q3-Q7 which can be found on Aliexpress. Wheels & tyres are from Mini-Z AWD. And the parts that are not compatible are unlikely to break.
It doesn't require any soldering. The 2mm spacer isn't included. But you can also move the ball down one slot and cut the servo horn. This will decrease the steering angle a bit.
There are a couple of Q8s which non of them are from Sinohobby (original Mini-Q manufacture). I've seen Q8 in Aliexpress which is actually Q5OP that I mentioned in this video. The other one that got Q8 name is from some shops that decide to import HGD1 and call it Q8. So, check it thoroughly before buying. If the Q8 you see is AWD or 4WD then it's Q5OP. If it's RWD then it's HGD1.
Unfortunately the front won't fit directly. You can drill the holes on the chassis to fit but this gearbox+control arm is narrow so it won't work that well.
![[Review] Atomic AMZ 1/27 4WD RC Car](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/u7Jsw8IW-zY/mqdefault.jpg)
Special Thanks to Fred Dodge for the 3D Printed guard rails.
Time Stamps:
Specs & Packages: 0:09
Building Tips: 3:01
Setup: 5:25
Test Drive: 6:59
Conclusion: 8:50
Saya sangat senang noton youTube anda... Saya hanya pengumpul barang bekas rc sudikah anda memberikan yang tak berharga, agar saya dapat melepas hobi saya, karna saya tak seberuntung anda tapi saya nerusaha 🤗🤗🤗
Wish there was a pre-built option available 😭
@@ryanhickey9984 Aliexpress seems to have a pre-built version. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000212209722.html
You only have the name of the car in the thumbnail...
How to buy
"How much steering angle do you want?"
"Yes"
360 degrees
Ow yeshhh
@@alexanderthegreatish4079 90
😂😂 isn't that what you want
probably the greatest accent of all time
Johnson Nash some people love cheap shots
Its Mort from family guy and a samurai
Simon Monto he sounds nothing like mort dude
I can’t disagree with the comment of “the greatest accent”.👌
One moment he sounds like a Indian next second he sounds Japanese .
I was big into 1/10th had a glam yd2 and a yokomo dp the local track went bankrupt unfortunately and I don't have much space for them. Finding your videos really got me back into the hobby. Now I got 2 of these and I run them on my billiards table. I used MDF board and used a nice carpet for drifting on it and it's good fun.
Dude that test drive at the end blew my mind, you are a really good driver! You make it look so easy but I'm sure you've had a lot of practice.
That is a paid voice over after for the chinese. This is intellectual property theft.
Vapletrichs Gne how?
@@BlvlWmpower what the hell are you even saying
By far the best mini rc channel in the world imo. Honest, very informative and the place to learn the nicest tips and tricks about mini rc.
Thank you very much for all the great help you provide kind sir.
Thanks for mention me Beaver, that's a very detailed review!
Always loved 2wd drifting
It’s like different experience
Bever's hobby, you are my favourite youtuber, keep going like this!
Excellent video my friend! I have been into micro losi 1/36 scale at the moment, I do have the WLtoys p929 and 959. This video has inspired me to get back into the Wl toys and I may have to pick one of these up! They look really awesome. Thanks for making these in depth videos on these micros, definitely inspired me. Thanks beaver 👍
Superb, thanks for posting this. The chassis looks amazing and I’m loving your driving skills.
Thanks for the mention. Always love watching your videos for accurate tips, love the little giggle that you had to use Toyota ae86. Gotta love the ae86. 👍🏽
Thank you soo much Beaver for review and tips!. Its really hard to assemble without manual.
Love the way he talks. Nice
Cool video. Precise and clean!
I love your accent. Im spanish and i can understand perfectly!! Jqjqjajja 10 of 10!
with the servo horn spacer, I am pretty sure you are supposed to attach the tie rods to a lower point and trim the rest so it won't rub.
Attaching the tie rods to a lower point will decrease the steering angle and this car needs all of that.
One thing it look so hard to do.BUILD THEM UP. THEY ARE AMAZING LOOKING
This is the easiest 1/28 RWD to build right now. It's a bit fiddly but still not driving people insane like Atomic DRZ.
Thankyou for the great review as always beaver !
Thanks for the honest review 👍 You drift like a king 💎💎
Great review! I just bought one through your link.
As always, great review!
Now build another one as a fully fledged racer :)
I LOVE your accent. More please
Great review!
I actually expected the DRZ to be easier to drive. I only just got a DRZ and haven't finished building it.
Would be interested to see a review on the super skeeter DRZ or XRX, but those are a pretty large investment.
Agreed. I think it took me less time to set up HGD1 and impressed it handles well as 90mm. Still think drz is smoother once you get it set up correctly... But it does take more fiddling to set up. Im gonna have a look at xrx next. Can't face super skeeter yet. Building front bulkhead on Drz nearly broke my sanity. 😂
Looking at the Super Skeeter price and I could buy a whole XRX DPA... I think I'd go with XRX.
DRZ is good as long as you don't go beyond what steering angle can work effectively. It's really smooth and I like that about it.
I'll continue to tune HGD1 a bit more to see how much can I get out of it.
@@BeaversHobby Maybe will try getting the XRX DPA in the future, really like how the steering pivot is very close to the wheel.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Haha luckily hadn't had much trouble with the front assembly. Just missing some parts and waiting for them to arrive. Hopefully can get it to handle better than my HGD1. Tuning and drifting RWD drift cars is too addictive xD
フロントタイヤの切れ角度が増えると、ドリフトの自由度が一気に上がる事に驚きました。
Fantastic video. Thanks for uploading
Very informative thx bro I'm getting one soon. I'm DEFINITELY saving this
Awesome little drift car!
My cat will love this!
Sweet lil car...
Nice review, as always.
Just got one (frame only) and while I'm waiting for it to arrive, I'm just getting confused about what servo I need, "micro" or "mini" servo or just a "5g" servo? There seems to be many size variations in each category.
Was looking into AFGRC A06CLS or A11CLS or the cheaper B05CLS.
thank you very much
I'm surprised you didn't exclude the spacer for the top deck, just moving the ballstud one hole lower on the servo horn, and trimming the excess off
Since I wasn't sure how much servo throw I would need, it's better to have more than less.
I'll fix the steering anyway so we'll see if I will keep the spacer later.
Hey beaver's hobby, do you have a video of you adjusting the wheelbase? Also I need to see how the servo is mounted haha I got a metal chassis version on ali express, and it comes assembled without electronics or wheels. I am trying to figure out how to install stuff without losing all the screws haha it would be cool to see a video for it, but I understand youre probably working on other stuff by now.
Here are my build videos. These should help you with putting it together.
Part 1 ua-cam.com/video/AvZPlJ7FweM/v-deo.html
Part 2 ua-cam.com/video/556IAV8qefg/v-deo.html
This is awesome dude, once again youre the best! Anyways, I got my HGD1 in finally and I am trying to extend the wheelbase to fit this Tamiya 1/24 scale model body, I am super excited to get it up and running I hope the brushless motor/esc set I bought comes with a pinion! Do you suggtest metal or plastic pinion?
Normally the motor won't come with a gear but the car will. It'll be a plastic gear and that's perfectly fine. I prefer plastic to metal because it's easier to remove. And if the metal gear doesn't have good quality it will last the same as plastic.
Bloody awesome
Awesome video man, as the car itself. Gotta get one someday :D
The gyro enables automatic adjustable countersteer? That's neat and good for beginners
This car is good for beginner but not because of gyro, it's because of massive steering lock that let you catch any drift.
Gyro is necessary for RWD drifting and doesn't make it any easier for beginner. If this was an AWD car, yes, gyro will make it very easy.
Beaver you are doing a great job to promote this hobby. Please, let me make a question. My problem is this.
I've:
-flysky gt3c, esc and servos
- mini q5 brushless: this one is not very good to drift because lot of potency and bad body componets (poorly shock absorber, and plastic diferentials and knuckles)
- mini q trq1: i like this one but not very easy to change body shells or perfect to drift
- i recently a firelap l408 because now is only 38€ and i have others body shell compatible with this model
So now ive lots of trasmitter and diferent components but no one is enough to get a good experience. My Desire is use my gt3c and focus my efforts to one model.
Mini z is hard to get components, usually are out o stock. For that reason i try to get a good banggod and get components easily.
My questions are:
1)coud be this the best drift kit for me?
2)or: do you recomend me upgrade my other models?
3) could be better buy a wltoy k989 and upgrade it? I have a a989 and is a good car.
Thanks a lot for your work.
Yes, Firelap IW04 or L408 can be a good drift car with a bit of upgrades. It also has very good compatibility with Mini-Z bodies too.
I'd suggest you upgrade the bearings first, you can buy them off ebay, don't have to be from a Kyosho dealer. Here's the tutorial. ua-cam.com/video/hBfqVAzzc3U/v-deo.html
Then since you already have a transmitter, you can get the Emax ES08MDII servo and a cheap ESC to overhaul the electronics. Here's the tutorial. ua-cam.com/video/qLM3Qh6kku4/v-deo.html
Then you can upgrade the wheels and tyres to use Mini-Z tyers. I'm not sure if Japan open the air mail route to your country yet but check out banzaihobby for Mini-Z parts.
Wheel set for every offset: bit.ly/2VeVZsc
1.5mm offset narrow wheels: bit.ly/2WSecRf
Drift tyres: bit.ly/2I3a74k
Wide drift tyres (in case you want to use wide wheels): bit.ly/2nZaLIw
@@BeaversHobby thanks a lot
@@virtualpinball5065 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
Nice video
Hello sir, i am really interrested in the hgd1, but i cannot find a shop that sells spare parts , in my expierience, rc cars brake every now and then...and the kit is to expensive to collect dust because of a broken axle or something. The support for atomic drz is way better where i live,but it doesnt has an option for 90mm wheelbase,what limits the body selection quite a bit...Is there any information on the company that produces the hgd1 and if they are planning to release different Upgrades or spare parts?
Really appriciate your Channel,already helped quite a lot,stay Save! Dominik
Unfortunately I don't know which manufacture made this car. However it's based on Mini-Q Q5OP so all the consumable parts are shared with Mini-Q and Mini-Z AWD.
The parts you can't find are front bulkhead, servo mount, rear gear holder plate, side clip mounts and chassis plates which are almost impossible to break because they made of aluminium and carbon fibre. Unless you put 10500KV motor in and crash it into a wall at full speed that is...
The things that can break like CVD, wheels, tyres, diff, spur gear are the same as Mini-Z AWD. All other parts are the same as Mini-Q.
I'm sure this car will last, just like all Mini-Q does.
Super cool, i want one 👍👍👍
Drift Master!
I think i want it NOW
Thats a great review. Looks very interesting. Since you mentioned it, Can you make a video on how to use an Aoshima 1/24 body shell on this HGD1 Chassis. I think it would be an interesting video because Aoshima has lots of nice mods body.
Absolutely. I'm looking at how to import that sexy FD RE Amemiya. If that doesn't happen then I'll have to settle with something like M5 I can find locally. Or a Trabant... that would be quite funny.
Have you heard about the Leya DS1 3D printed chassis? Andrian Irawan has some videos on it!
Yes, it looks really well designed. I kind of question the durability though (I have had bad experience with 3D printed chassis) but as far as the design goes, really good. Another interesting 3D printed chassis is PWK V2 which is designed for minimal scrub radius.
Amazing
Great video! Would you possibly know the maximum battery dimensions for the shortest wheelbase? Thanks in advance!!
300mAh
Great Video!! You are Awesome!!
Hi. Does the budget Radiolink receiver feature the same options for limiting steering, gyro, etc? Also, it will work with the kit that includes the brushless motor? Thank you. I love your videos. They keep inspiring me to learn about 1/28 scale drift cars.
Yes, it does. Radiolink has all the basic features just like an expensive one. It just doesn't have graphic interface when doing crawler mixing.
Nice review. Looks like a lot of fun. Too bad it's pretty expensive.. 240 euros for a 1/28th scale is pretty steep even though the quality seems very good.
Yes, even the chassis alone costs as much if not more than 1/10 RWD. I have no idea why 1/28 RWD are this expensive either.
trie to put a ruber bandconectin the knuckles on the sterin link point from knuckle to knuckle, the ruber band tension will take all the slop away, that is what i do on my 1/10 scale cars rhat have some slop
Thanks for the tip! Will do!
Man this is cool it reminds me of my xmod days I got a alot of them xmod with custom parts and mods
hi beaver, can u recommend a motor & esc for hgd1, and what motor size can fit in, thanks a lot if u can recommend
The motor size is called 130 in general. There are many names for brushless, 1410, 1625, 1525 and 1626. They are all the same size anyway.
The best budget set is Surpass Rocket V2 3500KV or 5500KV depending on how big is your track. For small track under 3M width 3500KV will do fine. Otherwise 5500KV will give you more speed for larger track. Of course you can get the fast one (5500KV) and use a smaller pinion to tune as well.
As for the ESC it depends on where you are, for some DasMikro V3 on Aliexpress is cheaper and for the others PN Racing V2 is cheaper. Pick either one you can buy. They both use Hobbywing program and are very good.
Great video. Online I am seeing a chassis called HGV1. It’s looks the same as this HGD1 but cheaper. What is the difference? Is it just a knock off?
Basically the same car but with plastic knuckles and some other plastic bits. I don't know if it's from the same manufacture but it's a cheaper option than getting a full aluminium chassis.
Great video man . I still can't decide between this and the DRZ . Both are expensive .... do you think it is possible to fix the slop in the steering ?
Yes, I believe it's possible. I'll be working on that after I finish reviewing Mini-Q Q2 refresh.
How to get the servo to do mor angle, the normal 5g wltoys like has such a tiny angle is there a way to increase it? I know it’s non-programmable.
WLtoys original electronics has a limited servo throw I think it's from the built-in receiver. If you plug it to another receiver you can make it move more with EPA (end point setting) if the transmitter has it. As for RWD drift, normally we just extend the servo horn so the movement is bigger.
Does it come with the body mount? If so, can i use the body mount on multiple bodies without the need to buy more?
The body mount parts are from the body. The front lips are unique to each car. You'll get all of the necessary parts when you buy a body so there's nothing to worry about.
Hello Mr. Beaver
I'm a middle grade student from south Korea, and Iove your videos because it is really detailed. Please keep doing this :)
I want to get into micro drifting, because I want to drive it at home.
Since I am new, I want to get some advices from you.
My first question is that what do you prefer? -Brushless kit or brushed kit?
Also, these kits include all things that I need, but except for the radio and the receiver.
My second question is that I have a "futaba 3pv", which is the best radio that I have... Do you know which receiver / micro receiver that fits futaba 3pv at micro drifting car?
If nothing fits, then what radio and receiver do you prefer? (I cannot buy expensive ones, so can you pick a cheap one?) -is it the one on the description link?
Third, is Hgd1 noisy? I'm going to run it at home, and I live at a apartment, so I am not able to run it if it is noisy;;
Lastly, is making the kit hard? I'm a noob at making these cars, so... I hope it is not to hard
THANK YOU FOR MAKING ALL THESE WONDERFULL VIDEOS!!!
Brush VS brushless depends on the kit you get. If it's HGD1 then brushed is a safer choice because generally brushless ESC that comes with this kit is not that good. Anyway, getting the brushless and change the ESC later on is also a good option. It depends on whether you want to spend a bit more for a better ESC or not. If you plan to keep it as it is, brushed. If you are willing to change the ESC later, brushless and it'll be better in the long run too.
For other cars or if you can choose the ESC yourself, brushless is better.
Futaba 3PV is good, no need to change that. The original receiver will work if the body is big enough to accommodate it. There's micro receiver for it too, here it is. bit.ly/2Xcwv2D
Talking about noise; the drivetrain itself is quiet. However the thing that makes noise with this kind of car is the plastic tyres rubbing on the floor. If you have a wooden floor, forget it. It'll be extremely loud. You'll have to lay down some carpet or EVA mats to drift. As for rubber tiles that I have, it's not loud.
Building HGD1 is not hard. However you'll need to look at the Mini-Q exploded diagram because it doesn't come with a manual. If you can, get some other car like Atomic DRZ V2 or GL Racing GLD. Those are much better cars as well and they are not hard to build and the manuals are very well-written which makes it much easier for a first time builder.
Hi there, live the video and am looking to get one, do you know if you can get any spares for it at all?
The spares are available on Alexpress. Still, most of the parts are cross-compatible with Mini-Q and Mini-Q and also the ball links are standard parts for any car so you can get those pretty easily.
Pretty good
Do you think the chasis fits a 1:24 scale model kits body? Especialy from tamiya. Been dreaming of having mode kits with rc capabilities
Yes, it'll fit. Here I use Tamiya 300ZX with this car. ua-cam.com/video/hrUr2lJxqkk/v-deo.html
I have 2 x 1/10 drift rc, and I'm thinking of buying a 1/28th, I've seen now you have reviews of so many chassis, if you were getting into it now, which would you buy? HGV2, Atomic, GLRacing, DriftArt?
DriftArt3 all the way. Atomic DRZ V3 also seems to be a good car although I haven't tried it yet. GLD is alright if you are OK with doing some upgrades.
Anyway, with your experience from 1/10 DriftArt's tricky build should pose no problem to you. It will deliver the best out of the box driving experience.
Ask a question Should you choose between motor 3500kv or 5500kv?
Depending on how big the track is. For under 3x3M 3500KV is good. Otherwise get a 5500KV.
KANSEI DORIFTO?! NANI?!
Nice!
Good video!😉
Nice bro
Hey beaver, do you think the HGD1 will be compatible with the mini q9 front and rear gear box to convert it to a HGD2? I’m trying to accomplish individual suspension like the new HGD2
I'll have to re-check it but as far as I remember the gearbox is slightly different between kingpin suspension versions (Q3-Q6) and the wishbone suspension (Q7, Q9... which is cloned Q7).
The front conversion is going to be difficult since it doesn't allow much steering angle on Q7/Q9.
The most you can do is make the rear double wishbone.
Thank, love your videos they are really
Well put together and love the style.
Was there soldering involved in the assembly of the hgd1 kit?
Normally, no. The plugs are all standard JR and the ESC has JST RCY for battery so most of the batteries will use that already.
hi beaver!, do you have any review on Mini-Q8 RWD drift 1/28 chassis?..do you have any opinion on this chassis? thank you!
This HGD1 is the current Q8 RWD, it's alright. You can get Atomic DRZ V2, GL Racing GLD and BMR-X at roughly the same price so I recommend those instead. They are much better.
Just found the transmitter and receiver I wanted today, but I had this car picked out yesterday and it just "stopped selling" last night :(
You can still find it on aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000751651146.html
But you can also get other cars at around the same price that's better than this like Atomic DRZ V2.
in your opinion what is the best hybrid car that can do racing and drifting with just changing wheels?
Can't be done with RWD. You'll need an AWD for that. So either Mini-Q Q7, Atomic AMZ or GLA will be great.
@@BeaversHobby I thought about the wltoys k969 and some rubber tires. just trying to get into the mini class and want something hyprid to not spend to much money.
@@BobBobsta Yes, K969 or K989 is the best in the budget category. It has a lot of room to modify as well so definitely go with that. I'd say K989 is better because it comes with open diff that can be locked for drifting. K969 comes with locked diff for drifting and will struggle if you want to drive normally or touring.
@@BeaversHobby what are the disadvantages and advantages of locket and unlocked diff then?
@@BobBobsta Here is why a car needs differentials, just at the beginning and you'll get the idea. ua-cam.com/video/ci54dkbc_Bc/v-deo.html
Locked diff is for drifting because there's no difference between 2 wheels and all the wheels get the same amount of power keeping them spinning to provide constant sliding especially with AWD.
Do you need any extra parts to adjust the wheelbase other than what is included in the box? Thanks.
No, you don't need anything else. All the parts are included.
@@BeaversHobby thats awesome. I might pull the trigger and get one
Does this kit come with magnet body mounting kit. What can I use to do that
No, it's not. But you can use some M2 screws, M2 standoff and magnets with hole in the middle to make your own magnet mount like this one. ua-cam.com/video/-kKLbRNrDxY/v-deo.html
Thanks for making all these really informative videos.
Now that the HRC Arena GL Racing GLD is out, how does the HGD1 compare with with the GLD?
BTW is the gyro basically the same thing as the HackSlider YE-0025?
GLD is much easier to drift and very pleasant to build. However the parts quality can be a bit ropy as I was unlucky enough to get every known defects on my car. However it's undeniably a great car with pinpoint accuracy handling.
Here's my first test drive with broken parts. ua-cam.com/video/7XhP6Y7CHRs/v-deo.html
I'm still editing the fix video and will have to film some driving as well to complete it.
And yes, the Hackslider V2 is the same as this gyro. Now there's V3 with EPA setting so get that one instead. Mine is with AFRC badge. ua-cam.com/video/qksr7-hSE0I/v-deo.html I think YeahRacing will have the update as well.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for explaining this further and EPA settings.
Hello, tell me which model is easier to configure and more advanced hgd1 or atomic drz2?
DRZ V2 all the way.
Thanks for the great video. What is the tool that you have used to measure the camber angle and how did you measure the toe in angle?
The tool for camber is the same one on 1/10. I think I got it with Yeah Racing brand or something like this www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-3-in-1-camber-gauge-bu-for-all-1-8-and-1-10-on-road-cars-yt-0056bu-00030118 .
You'll need to be careful because small cars are difficult to measure.
As for the toe angle, I use this setup sheet (page 23) www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR3Wpns2hQkXcM5BF2PG22oDGho00WlTlaavE87bCyEDYr9e7YppoAxq75Y .
You can also draw a straight line on a paper, put the car on it in parallel and then use ruler to draw the wheel angle then measure that with a protractor.
@@BeaversHobby thank you, you are too kind 👍🏼
@@leeboh87 My pleasure.
Hey Beav, what is the best battery to use on these? I cant tell what I got with my kit as its blank. Want a battery that is super strong to slide better on carpet (hoping). Would I want 60C+? Hard to find small batteries with high C. If you have a suggestion im all ears!!
You don't really need 60C because even the battery can delivery that, the wire can't. I normally use Marka 350mAh 50C and I doubt it even draws that much. Burst, probably but 40C will be alright.
If you need more power take a look at GNB HV. I have some 350mAh 7.6V and they are great. There are larger capacity too like 450mAh in case you want more run time.
I wound up tryin these 450mah Blomiky's that are only 25c and tbh it feels fine. Ill try a stronger battery though to see if it really makes a difference. Next goal is to figure out how to get more stability on the steering arms.. I knew of the issue before I got it in hopes I could fix it but cant figure it out xD @@BeaversHobby
I want one of these kits if teen age money can afford it and put my custom jeep body on it
I really want to get these but the electronics included are way overpriced. Can you suggest alternative electronic set?
Yes, certainly.
You can get a brushed system. A FK130 motor with DumboRC 10A ESC should not cost more than $15.
If you prefer brushless system then Surpass Rocket motor is what you need. It's about $22-25 a piece and I recommend DasMikro ESC, it'll be about $30-40. However if you are OK with having a big ESC then Hobbywing EZrun 18A will cost about $20-25. Do not get the Surpass Rocket combo, while motor is great, ESC is the worst you can get.
As for the gyro, you can't really skimp on this one. Get something like AGF-GY04M or AFRC GYS-2 V3. It'll cost around $30-40 but it'll be all you'll ever need.
@@BeaversHobby thanks beaver I appreciate the thorough reply.
Is there a different between brushed and brushless motor in throttle? I know that brushless are generally smoother throttle.
I find brushed motor smoother at low rev. The brushless motor that is smooth is expensive because you'll have to get a sensored system. Sensorless will have either little cogging in the low rev or starting speed is a bit higher.
However brushless has better power delivery so once you punch it you can feel the torque coming in hard.
damn! much more expensive than droning! 👍
I dont have that kit yet but Do you think the fkysky bs6 reciever with gyro work like that ?
Yes, the receiver is just a receiver so as long as you set it right (as VR knob) it'll work with gyro.
Please make Life size for better lifestyle.
Hey Beaver!
Thanks for your great Videos! Do you think the K989 electronic will fit in the cheapest hgd1 chassie without the electronic parts?
Thanks a lot!
Yes, it will.
@@BeaversHobby great thanks!
I think, I will try your K989 RWD Tuning first. But good to know...
@@unick599 My pleasure. Good luck with project!
nice video content
Is the link the biggest package? I'm on phone, and I don't see it.
The link is for all packages. You can choose the NO. to get different package. 01 is chassis only, 02 is brushed motor and 03 is brushless motor.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you. So if I buy it i got the full car.
@@milan-mn7gh Yes, no.2 (US$228.76
) and 3 (US$258.76). Choose either one you like. Don't forget a radio and body if you haven't got one yet.
Cool
are there replacement parts for this kit?
Yes, you can use most parts from Mini-Q Q3-Q7 which can be found on Aliexpress. Wheels & tyres are from Mini-Z AWD. And the parts that are not compatible are unlikely to break.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you so much!
@@wesleyng7912 My pleasure.
does the kit require any soldering to be ready to run?
also is the 2mm spacer under the top deck included?
It doesn't require any soldering.
The 2mm spacer isn't included. But you can also move the ball down one slot and cut the servo horn. This will decrease the steering angle a bit.
"Time to buy it!"
Nice vid as usual,, How about miniq tr-q8e chassis? Is it same as hgd1?
There are a couple of Q8s which non of them are from Sinohobby (original Mini-Q manufacture). I've seen Q8 in Aliexpress which is actually Q5OP that I mentioned in this video.
The other one that got Q8 name is from some shops that decide to import HGD1 and call it Q8.
So, check it thoroughly before buying. If the Q8 you see is AWD or 4WD then it's Q5OP. If it's RWD then it's HGD1.
@@BeaversHobby whoaa,, that's why, i can't find any information about q8 in sinohobby website, thank you
Wow smallar!!!
Does this work with all of the mini z bodies?
Yes, it does.
Hi, i just wanna ask.
Which is better? This or the mini Z?
Thanks
If it's only for drifting then this one is better. But for overall quality, Mini-Z is better.
Thanks a lot
Awesome do you have rtr kits ? I want one
There's RTR in Aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000212209722.html
Do you think the front steering/suspension will work on a wltoys k969?
Unfortunately the front won't fit directly. You can drill the holes on the chassis to fit but this gearbox+control arm is narrow so it won't work that well.
Ok thanks
藤原じゃない(本当に)が 面白い！
I was waiting for someone to catch on to this.