Did my first ever Clutch rebuild on my CB550K. This video was invaluable in the details. What I made mistakes on was the learning event. I found I needed to remove the Footpeg, Brake pedal and the kick starter. I needed to understand the fine points of adjusting the cable at both ends. Even the rear brake needed to be adjusted at the end. I'd never have the courage to do this without this video, it proved to me that the job was within my capabilities. I love the feel of a clutch that works like new! It allows me to feel confident riding this bike in all conditions. I lost confidence for a while, but got it back with a bike that responds to my touch.
You're right, it doesn't mention it in the Clymer manual (not sure which one you're using) though I was advised by another professional to do so. And when I did a clutch ring replacement, the plates indeed had the opposing sharp and dull sides he mentioned.. Anyways keep the videos coming duder, great stuff.
yeah, i will check it out.. i have never noticed any edge. i have changed a bunch of clutches and i dont think i have noticed that. i looked in the manual and it doesnt say anything about installing the plates in a particular way. thanks for looking out!
Oooh dude. Just noticed another thing, the steel plates were put in upside down. They have a knife edge on one side of them, and the other side is rounded off. (you can feel the sharp side with your fingers on the teeth) the plates were designed to have the sharp side facing outward from the center of the bike. Watching how they were placed, they are now on backwards...Perhaps it will do nothing.. but if you have any weird clutch behavior in the future thats what I'd recommend you check out!
I'd use a hammer with a plastic head to knock the cover loose. Prying it off with a screwdriver like that can damage it, especially if its really on there. If you damage it where it seals, then it may never seal correctly again. just a heads up
Quick question: I notice you say "Don't over tighten these bolts," when reinstalling the bolts that go through the springs. I may have installed mine too tight (torqued down as far as they would go), and I think this because when I shift into any gear from neutral, the bike wants to kick into gear, even with the clutch lever pulled in (and the clutch arm is properly adjusted, dots are lined up). I haven't put it in gear while it's running, but when the bike is off and I go from neutral into first, the back wheel wants to engage, even with the clutch lever pulled in all the way. I can hold it and it will stay in place, however it definitely gives a good amount of pull for supposedly being disengaged - so much so that I fear I might be ruining something internal (clutch or tranny) or like the bike would have stalled out if it was running. Just thinking through what these bolts are doing - compressing the springs that would release the clutch when the lever is pulled while in gear - that seems to be the most logical explanation. I just wanted your feedback since I am working with new discs and springs (old plates, but all in good shape), and not sure what a new clutch should feel like. How tight is "tight enough?"
i think its not the bolts but its your cluch cable. you might not have the clutch cable installed correctly... make sure the 2 dots line up where the clutch cable lever is on the engine.... like, it almost seems like your bike is always engaged to go regardless of your pulling the clutch cable.
not sure which washer.. i think you mean the one on the clutch basket behind the clip... that's not really a washer.. its a super thin spacer that is used to keep the basket from moving too much.. they can very in thickness. i dont know the part number or even if you really need it... its like paper thin or even thinner.
So the 550F clutch is a little easier than the 750 clutch to remove? I watched the Hack A Day clutch video and the center bolt was more challenging to deal with. How many miles are clutch plates rated for, in general?
How tight is tight enough on the bolts compressing the springs? Should the clutch lifter plate ride flush to the face? I notice that the compression on the springs is relative to how much the clutch lever can move...
Good video,a few things tho.....don,t ever put a screwdriver between a oil sealing surface to pry it open, that is a major nono. No offence meant 25 years as a redseal motor cycle mechanic/chop owner.
Shawn i had a question,i have a 550 that was gifted to me from a buddy and its the classical story where it was sitting for 30 years and everything is seized etc etc,on my clutch, that plate that holds the clutch together with the four bolts is rusted good but only surface rust,i have access to a bead blaster,could i just blast that and once i put the engine together and oil is flowing it will coat it and be ok or should i buy a new plate? there are other things inside the engine that are rusted so i guess my question would apply to those also, its good surface rust,its not growing stalagmites or anything like that,lol, thank you for your time. on another note i am planning on rebuilding the whole engine and taking my time.
yes you need to drain the oil. you probably have issues with neutral, 1st, 2nd gear etc because your clutch is not fully engaging. you probably need to adjust your clutch
SocoMoto707 this is exactly my problem, it's getting stuck in first and hard to pull up to 2ndet alone neutral. I was planning on changing out the plates and springs to see if that fixes the issue. Thanks for replying!
Did my first ever Clutch rebuild on my CB550K. This video was invaluable in the details. What I made mistakes on was the learning event. I found I needed to remove the Footpeg, Brake pedal and the kick starter. I needed to understand the fine points of adjusting the cable at both ends. Even the rear brake needed to be adjusted at the end. I'd never have the courage to do this without this video, it proved to me that the job was within my capabilities. I love the feel of a clutch that works like new! It allows me to feel confident riding this bike in all conditions. I lost confidence for a while, but got it back with a bike that responds to my touch.
You're right, it doesn't mention it in the Clymer manual (not sure which one you're using) though I was advised by another professional to do so. And when I did a clutch ring replacement, the plates indeed had the opposing sharp and dull sides he mentioned.. Anyways keep the videos coming duder, great stuff.
yeah, i will check it out.. i have never noticed any edge. i have changed a bunch of clutches and i dont think i have noticed that. i looked in the manual and it doesnt say anything about installing the plates in a particular way. thanks for looking out!
Awesome vid, thanks for posting. Im about to change out my '78 CB550 clutch and this covered pretty much everything I needed to know. Cheers!
Oooh dude. Just noticed another thing, the steel plates were put in upside down. They have a knife edge on one side of them, and the other side is rounded off. (you can feel the sharp side with your fingers on the teeth) the plates were designed to have the sharp side facing outward from the center of the bike. Watching how they were placed, they are now on backwards...Perhaps it will do nothing.. but if you have any weird clutch behavior in the future thats what I'd recommend you check out!
Would really like to see more videos on the CB550. Very helpful. Thanks.
thanks for watching!.. the plates are soaking in oil. you dont want to install them in dry.
I forgot to say, thank you for the video man,excellent and to the point!!
Can you elaborate on how tight to tighten the 4 bolts holding on that backing plate thing please?
thanks for this VID! I have used at as a reference for quite a few 550 clutch jobs.
I had to drill out cover screws on my cb550 stator cover and front sprocket cover. Do you know where I can buy replacements?
Thank you for making this video. I will let you know how it goes!
I'd use a hammer with a plastic head to knock the cover loose. Prying it off with a screwdriver like that can damage it, especially if its really on there. If you damage it where it seals, then it may never seal correctly again.
just a heads up
Quick question: I notice you say "Don't over tighten these bolts," when reinstalling the bolts that go through the springs. I may have installed mine too tight (torqued down as far as they would go), and I think this because when I shift into any gear from neutral, the bike wants to kick into gear, even with the clutch lever pulled in (and the clutch arm is properly adjusted, dots are lined up). I haven't put it in gear while it's running, but when the bike is off and I go from neutral into first, the back wheel wants to engage, even with the clutch lever pulled in all the way. I can hold it and it will stay in place, however it definitely gives a good amount of pull for supposedly being disengaged - so much so that I fear I might be ruining something internal (clutch or tranny) or like the bike would have stalled out if it was running.
Just thinking through what these bolts are doing - compressing the springs that would release the clutch when the lever is pulled while in gear - that seems to be the most logical explanation. I just wanted your feedback since I am working with new discs and springs (old plates, but all in good shape), and not sure what a new clutch should feel like. How tight is "tight enough?"
i think its not the bolts but its your cluch cable. you might not have the clutch cable installed correctly... make sure the 2 dots line up where the clutch cable lever is on the engine.... like, it almost seems like your bike is always engaged to go regardless of your pulling the clutch cable.
SocoMoto707
in regards to how tight to tighten the bolts, i would say to tighten them a little more than snug...if that makes any sense..
Do you really have to pull the entire clutch assembly? It seems that after the 4 bolts you can begin replacing the clutch plates.
What do you have the plates soaking in?
Btw, awesome demos! Thanks for the info!
not sure which washer.. i think you mean the one on the clutch basket behind the clip... that's not really a washer.. its a super thin spacer that is used to keep the basket from moving too much.. they can very in thickness. i dont know the part number or even if you really need it... its like paper thin or even thinner.
So the 550F clutch is a little easier than the 750 clutch to remove? I watched the Hack A Day clutch video and the center bolt was more challenging to deal with. How many miles are clutch plates rated for, in general?
How tight is tight enough on the bolts compressing the springs? Should the clutch lifter plate ride flush to the face? I notice that the compression on the springs is relative to how much the clutch lever can move...
i screwed the 4 bolts in all the way. i think there is a torque spec in the manual, but i dont remember what it was.
Aw dang, got a part number for that washer?
Good video,a few things tho.....don,t ever put a screwdriver between a oil sealing surface to pry it open, that is a major nono. No offence meant 25 years as a redseal motor cycle mechanic/chop owner.
Shawn i had a question,i have a 550 that was gifted to me from a buddy and its the classical story where it was sitting for 30 years and everything is seized etc etc,on my clutch, that plate that holds the clutch together with the four bolts is rusted good but only surface rust,i have access to a bead blaster,could i just blast that and once i put the engine together and oil is flowing it will coat it and be ok or should i buy a new plate? there are other things inside the engine that are rusted so i guess my question would apply to those also, its good surface rust,its not growing stalagmites or anything like that,lol, thank you for your time. on another note i am planning on rebuilding the whole engine and taking my time.
Ty sir,saved my day.
You need to drain the oil to do this? It's hard to put my bike in neutral and it's hard press and pull to get to 1st and 2nd
yes you need to drain the oil. you probably have issues with neutral, 1st, 2nd gear etc because your clutch is not fully engaging. you probably need to adjust your clutch
SocoMoto707 this is exactly my problem, it's getting stuck in first and hard to pull up to 2ndet alone neutral. I was planning on changing out the plates and springs to see if that fixes the issue. Thanks for replying!
did you try and adjust that little flat head screw on the bottom of the clutch cover? its like a little clutch arm calibrator
SocoMoto707 I'll take a look at that after Thanksgiving and get back to you, Happy Thanksgiving BTW!
Excellent video
The impact driver MUST have JIS bits. They look like Philips, but aren't. Philips bits will cam out and ruin the screws.
What did you use to replace your points ?
i used a dyna s
Thanks
Keep it coming excele
Hey man these vids are great thanks I am taking apart a cb 500 four motor... I'm guessing they are pretty similar? does any one know?
HydrogenGreen your CB500 motor should be exact to my CB550
No lubing? If you soaked the plates in oil overnight, they'd last longer.
If you watch the video, you will see that the plates are presoaked
Very nice video. About to do same...
Gotcha. Thanks!