you can also remove the timing chain tensioner cover and rotate the engine until you see the tensioner piston at the furthest extended point and measure it. Once the tensioner piston extends past 13.5mm the chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. This was an easy way for us to check without having to remove a whole lot.
Mad respect man. Thinking ill prolly end up dropping my whole swap doing the chain tensioner guides at the same time I do my clutch. Prolly replace all those hoses. Your video made opening up the timing cover seem less complicated.
Nice I have a 2004 acura rsx with 330,000 With original engine and transmission no problems still drives strong. And Original timing chain.. and honda for ever 😁
Thank you so much for making this video helped me identify my stretched timing chain on my.k20. Replaced timing chain and guides snd tensioner.it fixed the issue and mine line up just.like yours thanks again
Thanks for posting this video. At the end of the video where you show you now have proper timing, I don’t understand the proof? Just showing the marks line up I don’t think will prove it. Also its best to ensure the black chain links line up with the chain link markers on the cam gears at the same time to ensure its all good. You definitely make the replacement look easy! Nicely done.
If the marks line up with tension on the chain after you rotate it a couple times and put the crank right at top dead center, your timing is good. The colored links are nice but not necessary.
this a great video but you have to show how to take offf timeing chain cover and crankshaft polley and what has to come off if you dont take the engine out ive looked up several videos and all bypass this important detail but anyway this a great video the info is fantastic
Thanks for an excellent video. I need to replace the tensioner on Honda Accord 2017. I’ll have to access it though the small whole. My question is how can I maintain tension on the chain while replacing the tensioner? I’m scared that it might mess up the chain. Would appreciate any helpful information or hints! Thank you.
Excellent Video and now I am confident to take on this task - Thank you! I see comments about your accent saying we-tech. The original pronunciation should be BooYi-tech as us Far East Asians/Japanese have hard time saying Vee also.
I’m tackling this project right now. I didn’t put a small pin in the little tensioner hole before I removed it. What do I do. Also I know my cams gear marks aren’t aligned. So I need to get the crank to TDC how do I do that?
I'm gonna check this when I adjust my valves tomorrow. I'm at 166000 miles, bought the car about 100k miles ago and haven't done anything but change the oil and plugs. Its been running pretty bad for some time, and I really need to do something. I did clean the iacv a week or two back and that helped a bit with stalling at stop lights, but its not enough. Time to man up and try and fix it
Well heres my codes: cylinder 1 and 3 misfire, random misfire, and more recently intake vacuum leak. I've bought a cheap smoke machine and couldn't see it coming out anywhere, need to try again. Vacuum leak code didn't come on until I got a new filter, the old one was pretty rough looking, but the car didn't run any worse when I changed filters. When I would first start driving, if I came to a stop in neutral it would usually stall. If its warmed up enough not to stall at a light, sometimes it will try to stall when I push the gas pedal. I bought the car used, 3 years old, the last owner put a short ram intake and exhaust on it. The check engine light first came on when I floored it off a stop light. I may have over revved it. I've swapped plugs, coil packs, and injectors around, problem remains on cylinder 3 and 1, with cylinder 3 being completely dead and 1 having a slight drop when I unplug the coil
That's a lot. Remove the valve cover and check the marks on the camshaft gears like I explained in the video. This will give you a first impression of the condition. I assume that the misfire codes are a result of an out of sync timing
Type D Movies yea I'm thinking the chain might have jumped a tooth when I over revved it. I guess that means I need a new tensioner and chain. I looked at the marks yesterday a little but mostly I was focused on adjusting valves. I will probably get the special valve adjustment tool because its hard to get a wrench in there with the fuel rail on. I'll focus on the marks next time. I hate working on cars
Great Video. Is the chain tensioner an upgrade vs Honda OEM? I've heard the tensioner is the weakest link in the Honda K series. I am hoping to do the same procedure in my car without pulling the engine out.
Thanks. I mounted an OEM tensioner. It's still a quality part IMO. But there's a very detailed article about Honda's tensioner (problems): www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/htup-1005-honda-k-series-tensioner/
Hey @k-powered I just replaced my timing chain tensioner with the engine still in the car and the timing jumped a tooth so i had to pull the engine to re-time it and when putting the tensioner back on after re-timing i had to try very hard to get the tensioner on because the piston was extended further than it would be before pulling the pin (when brand new) even though i pushed the piston back as far as i could and put the pin back in. Do you know if this is putting too much tension on the chain or will the oil pressure fix the excess tension?
As far as I know, the piston doesn't go back in once it came out due to the ratchet mechanism. For clarification: You pushed the piston back in by hand and it stayed there?
@@kpowered i pushed the piston back in by hand and put the pin back in which kept it there, but do you think this means i must buy a new tensioner? I only used the new tensioner for a start up and then pulled the engine
@@kpowered i pushed the piston back in by hand and put the pin back in which kept it there, but do you think this means i must buy a new tensioner? I only used the new tensioner for a start up and then pulled the engine
You forgot to line up the black links on the chain with the dots on the gear sprockets Those black links have to be lined up with the 2 sprockets on top and the crank sprocket aswell
It was lined up initially, but later shots showed the engine after having been turned over a few revolutions. It takes dozens of rotations before they line up again, but it is still always in sync.
Actually we loosened it by help of a heavy duty impact wrench... we tried our regular workshop one but that thing was stubborn lol. You can use a long lever if the engine is still in the car
Type D Movies that crank pulley bolt is a bitch of a bolt. I had to remove 2 of those when I change the cambelt in my civics and I was swearing a bit. I bought the special crank pulley tool holder to help. You secure the crank pulley with this pulley tool holder and then use a strong breaker bar and break it loose. I heard this bolt can get so tight over the years at around 500 Newton meters of torque because every time you start the engine this bolt gets tighter and tighter.
I can tell. We had to remove these bolts on a bunch of engines and our regular impact wrench failed. We had to use to some heavy duty stuff used for massive farming machines to open it. Btw, the bolt doesn't get tighter over time. The opposite is the case ... the torque of the engine works counter wise on the bolt, that's why it's tightened so much. I forgot to put these 180 Nm on my daily driven civic, the bolt was tightened with about 130~. Lasted 1000 km, then the bolt including pulley flew off :-)
that would be awesome! thanks heaps. Only reason why I think you might have to is because one of the engine mounts appears to bolt right into the timing belt cover, and there's very little space to work in there. Also, I need to replace the crank shaft seal, which I assume would make sense to do at the same time. Thanks again!
I have a ? if you could help me i have the same engine in a honda CR-V Everytime i get all my marks lined up and im at TDC i crank the motor over by hand and they dont seem to line up again what im i doing wrong? How many times do i have to crank the engine to confirm its in time? thanks for any help
I'm surprised some engines do twice that mileage with no problems, I guess it's luck of the draw. I would had upgraded the chain tensioner to a Skunk2 design.
Im so mad i have to get this done to my car 04 tsx dropping alot of money 💰 but hey look at the bright side my engine bout to be fresh and running smooth
Aren’t you supposed to change all the guides and tensioner with seals? I’ve replaced my K20 timing chain Timing chain tensioner 2 timing chain guides Oil pump chain Oil pump guide Oil pump tensioner All at once is better job
This i think does not matter Well due to my situation The two marks is not aligned but the two dots on top does align facing up! Well the car runs dope in vtec And even on low rpm Ps. I did change timing chain oem honda still it is same
Im in that situation dots are perfect BUT intake cam mark is half a tooth behind exhaust cam line mark. Now i only have new o2 primary sensor code. Wants to start (hear combustion) but wont just cranks.
definitely easier when it's out, but also possible with a mounted engine. After the upper engine mount is removed and the chain case fumbled out it's basically the same.
@@kpowered I've tried finding videos getting the cover off but they all start with it off.. I need to see how hard it is to perform.. need to do this myself
I have a ? if you could help me i have the same engine in a honda CR-V Everytime i get all my marks lined up and im at TDC i crank the motor over by hand and they dont seem to line up again what im i doing wrong? How many times do i have to crank the engine to confirm its in time? thanks for any help
you need to go through the whole 'lifecycle' - so that every cylinder soaks in, compressed, fires and releases the exhaust gases. That's a few full rotations
you can also remove the timing chain tensioner cover and rotate the engine until you see the tensioner piston at the furthest extended point and measure it. Once the tensioner piston extends past 13.5mm the chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. This was an easy way for us to check without having to remove a whole lot.
thanks for sharing this!
Great video Samuel. You are a good mechanic.
Mad respect man. Thinking ill prolly end up dropping my whole swap doing the chain tensioner guides at the same time I do my clutch. Prolly replace all those hoses. Your video made opening up the timing cover seem less complicated.
Wee tec just kicked in yoo. Love your accent
Fine job. I enjoyed the speed and music. Happy trails to you.
is he saying we-tec
@cheese master It's a German accent.
I got 230.000km and having no problem with my fn2.... just oil change.. for about 4 years now...👌👌👌... honda forever...😍
Your timing will be off the same as this one , if you pull the covers off and ck it .
Nice I have a 2004 acura rsx with 330,000 With original engine and transmission no problems still drives strong. And Original timing chain.. and honda for ever 😁
It’s so much easier to work on the chain when the engine is out of the bay,thanks
Great step by step
Great video Samuel! Great video as always!
Good job. Those black links are designed to go over the dots on the cam gear. I guess it wont hurt anything.
Vas goood gunter.. gud wee-dio on das wee-tech ya!
Thank you so much for making this video helped me identify my stretched timing chain on my.k20. Replaced timing chain and guides snd tensioner.it fixed the issue and mine line up just.like yours thanks again
bro any chance that you can replace the chain even if the engine is still in the car?
2:01 what in fairy tale land is that horse crud.
Yea I'm wondering how much movie magic happened behind the scene there lol
They most likely used heat on the bolt (or broke it free off camera)
Thanks Man U just helped me a lot
Thanks for posting this video. At the end of the video where you show you now have proper timing, I don’t understand the proof? Just showing the marks line up I don’t think will prove it. Also its best to ensure the black chain links line up with the chain link markers on the cam gears at the same time to ensure its all good. You definitely make the replacement look easy! Nicely done.
If the marks line up with tension on the chain after you rotate it a couple times and put the crank right at top dead center, your timing is good. The colored links are nice but not necessary.
Great job! You make this look easy 👌
@ 5:43, should have shown the crankshaft for comparison
this a great video but you have to show how to take offf timeing chain cover and crankshaft polley and what has to come off if you dont take the engine out ive looked up several videos and all bypass this important detail but anyway this a great video the info is fantastic
Fantastic video, very helpful - thank you!
Great video and tutorial. Keep up the good work, thank you.
Hi sir can this situation make ticking noise when under load.
Thanks for an excellent video. I need to replace the tensioner on Honda Accord 2017. I’ll have to access it though the small whole. My question is how can I maintain tension on the chain while replacing the tensioner? I’m scared that it might mess up the chain. Would appreciate any helpful information or hints! Thank you.
The best video so far, thank you very much!
I wanna know that, the difference between honda crv k24 and k20 timing chain kit
Why is the tensioner moving shouldn't it always stay in 1 position
Btec bro good vid straight to the point
Excellent Video and now I am confident to take on this task - Thank you! I see comments about your accent saying we-tech. The original pronunciation should be BooYi-tech as us Far East Asians/Japanese have hard time saying Vee also.
You are goated💯
I’m tackling this project right now. I didn’t put a small pin in the little tensioner hole before I removed it. What do I do. Also I know my cams gear marks aren’t aligned. So I need to get the crank to TDC how do I do that?
Yes this was most informative !
The WE-TECH.. Hahaha.. Love it!
I thought you were saying wee tech lol nice vid
great video thanks guys :) was really helpfull
I'm gonna check this when I adjust my valves tomorrow. I'm at 166000 miles, bought the car about 100k miles ago and haven't done anything but change the oil and plugs. Its been running pretty bad for some time, and I really need to do something. I did clean the iacv a week or two back and that helped a bit with stalling at stop lights, but its not enough. Time to man up and try and fix it
what are the exact problems? Mine ran very bad in higher revs, so that was a clear sign it has something to do with the chain. Good luck with that
Well heres my codes: cylinder 1 and 3 misfire, random misfire, and more recently intake vacuum leak. I've bought a cheap smoke machine and couldn't see it coming out anywhere, need to try again. Vacuum leak code didn't come on until I got a new filter, the old one was pretty rough looking, but the car didn't run any worse when I changed filters.
When I would first start driving, if I came to a stop in neutral it would usually stall. If its warmed up enough not to stall at a light, sometimes it will try to stall when I push the gas pedal.
I bought the car used, 3 years old, the last owner put a short ram intake and exhaust on it. The check engine light first came on when I floored it off a stop light. I may have over revved it.
I've swapped plugs, coil packs, and injectors around, problem remains on cylinder 3 and 1, with cylinder 3 being completely dead and 1 having a slight drop when I unplug the coil
As for higher revs it seems to run ok, just a lack of power
That's a lot. Remove the valve cover and check the marks on the camshaft gears like I explained in the video. This will give you a first impression of the condition. I assume that the misfire codes are a result of an out of sync timing
Type D Movies yea I'm thinking the chain might have jumped a tooth when I over revved it. I guess that means I need a new tensioner and chain. I looked at the marks yesterday a little but mostly I was focused on adjusting valves. I will probably get the special valve adjustment tool because its hard to get a wrench in there with the fuel rail on. I'll focus on the marks next time. I hate working on cars
Is this proces for k24 too i got a tsx that i wan to replace timing chain .. i dont have much expirience but i got rigth tools to doit
very similar for the K24 yes
Great Video. Is the chain tensioner an upgrade vs Honda OEM? I've heard the tensioner is the weakest link in the Honda K series. I am hoping to do the same procedure in my car without pulling the engine out.
Thanks. I mounted an OEM tensioner. It's still a quality part IMO. But there's a very detailed article about Honda's tensioner (problems): www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/htup-1005-honda-k-series-tensioner/
Hey @k-powered I just replaced my timing chain tensioner with the engine still in the car and the timing jumped a tooth so i had to pull the engine to re-time it and when putting the tensioner back on after re-timing i had to try very hard to get the tensioner on because the piston was extended further than it would be before pulling the pin (when brand new) even though i pushed the piston back as far as i could and put the pin back in. Do you know if this is putting too much tension on the chain or will the oil pressure fix the excess tension?
As far as I know, the piston doesn't go back in once it came out due to the ratchet mechanism. For clarification: You pushed the piston back in by hand and it stayed there?
@@kpowered i pushed the piston back in by hand and put the pin back in which kept it there, but do you think this means i must buy a new tensioner? I only used the new tensioner for a start up and then pulled the engine
@@kpowered i pushed the piston back in by hand and put the pin back in which kept it there, but do you think this means i must buy a new tensioner? I only used the new tensioner for a start up and then pulled the engine
If the piston is pushed back, how come there's so much tension on the chain?
@@kpowered the piston when the tensioner is new is set back much more than what mine was after pushed back in as much as i could
Do i need to drop the engine for a timing chain replacement?
No, can remain installed
@@kpowered perfect thanks
How did u rotate the engine ?
Just rotate the crankshaft pulley bolt counterclockwise
good video. I have just had this problem chain slapping. new tensinoir or not ? mine seems ok. what song is that in the video
how much is the tensioner's pin already out? Song is in the video description
Is it possible to inspect this while the engine is still in the vehicle?
Yes. it's a bit tricky to get the chain cover out and back in, but besides you can reach everything from top or the side if you remove the tire.
didn't loosen the timing cover bolts ina criss cross pattern?
Not necessary :) That's more of a thing when you remove the cylinder head.
My lower timing chain was a little longer than the new one I got and the mechanic said it was the wrong chain. Couldn't have stretched in length?
How much longer was it?
What is the size of the drive belt?
Can a displaced timing chain cause a no start up?
Yes, cause the entire timing is off then
Hello, I have a question, how can I see the ignition time that the engine is having with a strboscopic lamp
Yes, there are some marks on the crankshaft pulley. You can look up the process on Google
thanks for the great wideo no other youtube has such a good guide
Will we get to see a video of it's improved running/acceleration?
I didn't have a chance to film driving this engine again, but I'll do a comparison vid with a different car.
You forgot to line up the black links on the chain with the dots on the gear sprockets
Those black links have to be lined up with the 2 sprockets on top and the crank sprocket aswell
It was lined up initially, but later shots showed the engine after having been turned over a few revolutions. It takes dozens of rotations before they line up again, but it is still always in sync.
if there are timing chain problems, it has engine vibration?
Didn't realize a higher vibration before the change, so I doubt it.
@@kpowered thanks
Why is tensioner moving when rotating Crank?
because you release the pressure on the chain guides
What pulley is that on top replacing the power steering pump?
it's just replacing the pump. OEM part on civic type-r models with electric power steering
did you loose crank pulley already? or was it simple technique with hammer we just saw in video?
Actually we loosened it by help of a heavy duty impact wrench... we tried our regular workshop one but that thing was stubborn lol. You can use a long lever if the engine is still in the car
Type D Movies that crank pulley bolt is a bitch of a bolt. I had to remove 2 of those when I change the cambelt in my civics and I was swearing a bit. I bought the special crank pulley tool holder to help. You secure the crank pulley with this pulley tool holder and then use a strong breaker bar and break it loose. I heard this bolt can get so tight over the years at around 500 Newton meters of torque because every time you start the engine this bolt gets tighter and tighter.
I can tell. We had to remove these bolts on a bunch of engines and our regular impact wrench failed. We had to use to some heavy duty stuff used for massive farming machines to open it. Btw, the bolt doesn't get tighter over time. The opposite is the case ... the torque of the engine works counter wise on the bolt, that's why it's tightened so much. I forgot to put these 180 Nm on my daily driven civic, the bolt was tightened with about 130~. Lasted 1000 km, then the bolt including pulley flew off :-)
very good, thank-you
my only question: is it mandatory to remove the engine in order to do this job?
I don’t think so. I’ll be doing mine this weekend so I will let you know how it goes
that would be awesome! thanks heaps. Only reason why I think you might have to is because one of the engine mounts appears to bolt right into the timing belt cover, and there's very little space to work in there. Also, I need to replace the crank shaft seal, which I assume would make sense to do at the same time. Thanks again!
I will be removing the engine mount which is in the way and supporting the engine via the sump with a jack and piece of wood
I have this engine in my RSX type s. Is this possible to do with the engine inside the car?
It is. The upper engine mount needs to be removed (support the engine before). Then you can access the timing chain cover
Thank you
I would dread to do this with the engine in situ.
Wii-tec just kicked in, yo
Hello Sir, my suv have a K20a4 engine and at 103k kilometer on it, is it require to change the timing chain? Thanks
Check the marks on the cam gears as described in the video :)
Hi How many mile/km did the k20 have to be that far off on Timing? Thanks
Had around 130000 km
I have a ? if you could help me i have the same engine in a honda CR-V Everytime i get all my marks lined up and im at TDC i crank the motor over by hand and they dont seem to line up again what im i doing wrong? How many times do i have to crank the engine to confirm its in time? thanks for any help
Hey man you should do a auto to manuel swap on a honda civic , and a k24 swap on a honda civic please !!i enjoy watching your videos
yea maybe in the future!
at 2:30 you removed a part what was it?
it's the "valve" of the vtc system
how do you know when to change the chain and its tensioner? My RSX-S has 138k km and its it has ticking noise.
check how far the tensioner's pin has already come out and also if the marks on the camshaft gears are lined up, like in the beginning of the video.
Valves tick too
Very nice.
I'm surprised some engines do twice that mileage with no problems, I guess it's luck of the draw. I would had upgraded the chain tensioner to a Skunk2 design.
why, nothing wrong with the honda one.Some people seem to just want these tuner brands for the sake of it for no real reason, waste of money.
Thanks
I'm in the process of k swapping a civic like the one on the right of you same color and everything
Im so mad i have to get this done to my car 04 tsx dropping alot of money 💰 but hey look at the bright side my engine bout to be fresh and running smooth
It's definitely a good investment.
I want to do my si but dont want to remove the engine
When I test the marks, they are off even though I do the tdc.
Then the chance is high that the chain is stretched.
Nice .
Aren’t you supposed to change all the guides and tensioner with seals?
I’ve replaced my K20
timing chain
Timing chain tensioner
2 timing chain guides
Oil pump chain
Oil pump guide
Oil pump tensioner
All at once is better job
looks like a lot of work haha. I really don't want to cherrypick my engine
Filming it was actually more work haha.
pronounce your v's a little better you keep using W. just funny man great video tho bro
you've never heart of we-tec before? No jk, lol. thanks for the tip I'll keep this in mind.
I like your pronunciation. :)
This i think does not matter
Well due to my situation
The two marks is not aligned but the two dots on top does align facing up!
Well the car runs dope in vtec
And even on low rpm
Ps. I did change timing chain oem honda still it is same
Im in that situation dots are perfect BUT intake cam mark is half a tooth behind exhaust cam line mark. Now i only have new o2 primary sensor code. Wants to start (hear combustion) but wont just cranks.
B.S. next time align the T.D.C. marks up properly on the "BEFORE" picture.
The wittle wee tec walve
We-Tec Baby !!!!!!!!!!! Bahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh Fucking We-Tec !!!!!!!!! Hit The Rev Limiter Dam It We-Tecccccccc
This is easy when the engine is out... Do this while still being in vehicle..
definitely easier when it's out, but also possible with a mounted engine. After the upper engine mount is removed and the chain case fumbled out it's basically the same.
@@kpowered I've tried finding videos getting the cover off but they all start with it off.. I need to see how hard it is to perform.. need to do this myself
FCK LOL, you don't show us other TDC mark, think on crankshaft
WITEC!!!!
Must of vtec all days
Weedtec!
I should delete this video .. :D
With it stretching only 2mm you could have swapped to a Ktuned, Hasport or Hybrid Racing tensioner and just reset timing.
We tec 😅
Bro it’s a fucking v not we lol I get u have an accent but damn!. Good info tho
Wee tek
I have a ? if you could help me i have the same engine in a honda CR-V Everytime i get all my marks lined up and im at TDC i crank the motor over by hand and they dont seem to line up again what im i doing wrong? How many times do i have to crank the engine to confirm its in time? thanks for any help
you need to go through the whole 'lifecycle' - so that every cylinder soaks in, compressed, fires and releases the exhaust gases. That's a few full rotations
Thank you
About how many rotations Nd s great video by the way man💪