This applies for a 77-79 caprice also. Purple is starter signal, pink for hei coil will be your pcm switched power, both reds I put to the starter power lug where the battery cable goes. Wire your fuel pump and it’ll fire no problem
This is to funny. Literally in the middle of removing a 4.8 & 4l60 for a 77 c10. Doing your method of keeping the original LS coolant bottle and fuse block in the swap just like you have done there. Awesome videos.
Glad to hear! We have several other wiring videos that might be helpful too. Check this one out... ua-cam.com/video/6SKcYIaHb78/v-deo.htmlsi=RV13tLxq2BL-pEOU We installed a FiTech system on this 87 Blazer, but Jerry talks about the wiring for an LS swap and how the 87's are a little different that previous years. There might be some info we didn't cover here. Hope this helps! We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily
I'm in the planning stages of building a 89 Bronco II, it's going to be a offroad buggy only. I have decided that I'm going to LS Swap it. I was first thinking 5.3, but now I'm starting to think 6.0. Thanks for all the info you guys are providing!!! Much help!!!!
Although, Im aware of which wire goes where in a LS swap, I wish you had ended the video where you would connect each of those red and pink wires to the LS harness/relay, etc. That would have clarified any ambiguity from testing between wires of the same color. Otherwise, love the channel and content, look forward to each video.
Great video as always! I have a question. I am doing a 6.2 Manual in a 79 C10. I have a standalone harness for engine. This truck did not have relays like newer ones do. Do i need to run starter through a relay? Thank you!
Hello Nightshift. You don't have to run it through a relay. If works nice when using a donor box and harness but most standalone harnesses that we have seen just have the starter wire going to the starter solenoid with no relay. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
Night School with Jerry and special guest Emily. Everything Chevrolet to start your day....OK? For extra credit you are invited to participate in an electroshock therapy trial... on a strictly volunteer basis... Yeah. Thanks for sharing. Stay warm 🐲
Much better and easier way to test for these things is to simply use a test light - with an incandescent bulb. I cannot stress how IMPORTANT it is that it has an incandescent bulb. Test lights with LEDs? Throw them away, they're useless. For example, the wires you were concerned with applying +12v to? Simply use a test light connected to +12v. If the bulb lights brightly, it's a straight path to ground. If it lights dimly, it's in circuit with something to ground. The bulb acts as a fuse also, and will blow if you somehow make a big mistake (protecting the circuit), but will generally just light normally if you're connected to ground. You can also connect the light to ground and test for positives. The incandescent bulb will also give a much more... "real world" reading than a voltmeter. A test lamp's incandescent bulb will put an actual load on the circuit, and won't light brightly if there's a significant resistance or poor connection in the circuit... where a voltmeter might read a perfect 12v despite such a problem with the circuit. They're just more versatile tools in general.
Thanks Madman. This video was an attempt to show someone how to test these circuits without having a battery source just yet in their project. A test light is a great tool if you have a little bit of experience. Many people would look at a dimly lit test light and think everything is fine. There are thousands of people out there doing this for the first time and for them a lit test light is a lit test light. For people that aren't that experienced there is no better way to learn this than using an ohmmeter and recognizing a problem in that circuit. We appreciate you watching and commenting. Jerry and Emily
I've recently found your videos and am enjoying them very much. I live fairly close to you, I'm north of Springfield. I'm just wondering if you only do these swaps on trucks? I have an 83 trans am I'm wanting a 5.3 and a 4l60 put into. I'd like to talk to you about if you would be interested in doing this swap for me.
Question, I rewound the video and there were four wires laying on the fuse box in the beginning of the video. In my vehicle, I found three wires, pink purple and red. None of the other wires seem to be large enough. How do I locate the other large wire? For reference my vehicle is a 72 K5 that has been rewired by a previous owner...then it caught fire, a small fire, so I bought it cheap.
I looked at a wiring diagram and also looked at our 1972 truck and It also only has one power wire leading into the cab for the interior fuse box. I would check that one large red wire you have for continuity or a short to ground since there was a small fire. If wire seems good. Put battery voltage to it and test that everything is working properly. Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes. Cool truck also, I wish I had one.
@@UglyTruckExperience Thanks for the help! I was scratching my head wondering if it was re-wired w a small gauge wire. One large red wire is good news. I'll test the red like you showed in the video. I'm learning a lot from you guys. Great content!!
Question. Putting an LS in a 1961 Pontiac with generator wiring. Obviously I am eliminating the original generator and voltage regulator. There is a large yellow wire at the horn relay junction post from the battery fed by a large red wire. Another heavy wire went from there to the original starter. That yellow wire goes into the fire wall directly to the amp gauge. Then a red wire comes off the other side of the amp gauge and splices into several red branches the under dash harness feeding everything under the dash, and also comes back to the voltage regulator on the outside of the fire wall. I am thinking the I can eliminate the red wire that comes back out to the voltage regulator from the place where it branches from the rest of the red wires to under dash. And I can feed power from the LS fuse box to the Yellow wire that goes to the amp gauge . There are several possible locations to do this from. an ABS 60 fused plug on the underside and a couple 50 fused plugs also on the underside. Or there are two posts on the corners of the fuse box that I could use and possibly put a 50 or 60 amp fuse into one of those. Do I have the right idea? Any recommendations? Will my amp gauge work still? Then All I need to do is connect my purple ignition starter wire to the C1 -A3 terminal, and my ignition on wire to the C1 - A9 position. Correct? I will also eliminate the old coil wires from the ignition switch that you mentioned in the video, correct?
The Amp gauge should work with the wiring you described. I think your power wire for ignition will go to c1, position c9. Your message said position a9. Double check that in case I am wrong. Sounds like you are on the right track though. Sounds like your close to firing it up. Let us know how it goes. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience It was my understanding that power needs to go to A9 for ignition power to the PCM but C9 is for the transmission. I was going to power the C9 terminal from the 10amp fused TBC ign 1 terminal A6. Another question.... what does the ignition relay on the fuse box do? What does it serve and how?
I've never used an aftermarket harness for numerous reasons, but we have a video coming up where we'll talk about why we prefer using the original harness. Great question, and thanks for watching!
The starter and ignition on wire would be the same pretty much. Everything else would be different. We use Alldata for our diagrams. They do have a reasonably priced program called AlldataDIY. On older truck wiring diagrams, LMC or Summit has a bunch of the older ones. Thanks Shaun. Jerry and Emily
Thanks P Motorsports, In one of our past videos I had said the opposite. It was an attempt to make looking at a wiring diagram make a little bit more sense. If I have screwed it up in this video I am going to just quite wiring things. Thanks Jerry
This is the best information on the LS swaps hands down!
Thanks Rick! 😎😎
I found you because I decided to do an 86 K20, found a 5.3 LS. Now I'm soaking up all the knowledge you'll give me. I appreciate you.
Thanks Michael. We appreciate you watching. We have a bunch more on the way. Jerry and Emily
This applies for a 77-79 caprice also. Purple is starter signal, pink for hei coil will be your pcm switched power, both reds I put to the starter power lug where the battery cable goes. Wire your fuel pump and it’ll fire no problem
You are correct. Thanks for watching.
Finally! I am now "in the know". Thanks for taking the time to do this deep dive. I never understood that whole ignition resistor thing...until now.
Excellent. In the.past I kept forgetting to mention that wire. Glad I did. Thanks for commenting.
This is to funny. Literally in the middle of removing a 4.8 & 4l60 for a 77 c10. Doing your method of keeping the original LS coolant bottle and fuse block in the swap just like you have done there. Awesome videos.
Haha that's awesome! We appreciate you watching! Keep us posted on your swap. I'd like to see how that turbo turns out. 👍
Just what I needed to see, I have a 87 r10 and didn’t know which wires I’m supposed to be using. Thanks for the help.
Glad to hear! We have several other wiring videos that might be helpful too. Check this one out... ua-cam.com/video/6SKcYIaHb78/v-deo.htmlsi=RV13tLxq2BL-pEOU We installed a FiTech system on this 87 Blazer, but Jerry talks about the wiring for an LS swap and how the 87's are a little different that previous years. There might be some info we didn't cover here. Hope this helps! We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily
Best Bulk head wiring video I have seen.
Thanks DE! We appreciate you watching!
I'm in the planning stages of building a 89 Bronco II, it's going to be a offroad buggy only. I have decided that I'm going to LS Swap it. I was first thinking 5.3, but now I'm starting to think 6.0. Thanks for all the info you guys are providing!!! Much help!!!!
Very cool! A 6.0 would be a ton of power in a Bronco II! Be sure to keep us posted!
Another informative video. I enjoy learning new things, and I'm actually learning a lot. Thanks ya'll
Thanks Randy! We appreciate you tuning in!
Another great video this is how I tested my s10 swap after your help on the wiring thanks again.
Thanks Greg! We appreciate your support!
Although, Im aware of which wire goes where in a LS swap, I wish you had ended the video where you would connect each of those red and pink wires to the LS harness/relay, etc. That would have clarified any ambiguity from testing between wires of the same color. Otherwise, love the channel and content, look forward to each video.
We do have a video like.your describing. ua-cam.com/video/kt9GFJApd-A/v-deo.html Thanks for watching. We appreciate it.
Huh? I thought I knew a little bit but now I know I don't. Thanks.
Now you know how I feel! 🤣🤣 --Emily
Nice one! Keep em comin'.
Thanks, will do!
You should make Jerry wear his professor jacket when he's at the whiteboard. I think he enjoys it as much as we do
🤣🤣 I'm worried he likes it a little too much... He was talking about DeLoreans the other day. 😁 Thanks Bill!
Great video as always! I have a question. I am doing a 6.2 Manual in a 79 C10. I have a standalone harness for engine. This truck did not have relays like newer ones do. Do i need to run starter through a relay? Thank you!
Hello Nightshift. You don't have to run it through a relay. If works nice when using a donor box and harness but most standalone harnesses that we have seen just have the starter wire going to the starter solenoid with no relay. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
Night School with Jerry and special guest Emily. Everything Chevrolet to start your day....OK? For extra credit you are invited to participate in an electroshock therapy trial... on a strictly volunteer basis... Yeah. Thanks for sharing. Stay warm 🐲
🤣 I seem to get "volunteered" for these jobs a lot... 🤔🤔 Thanks Ray Bann!
Love your channel
Thanks Don! We're glad you found us! --Emily and Jerry
Much better and easier way to test for these things is to simply use a test light - with an incandescent bulb. I cannot stress how IMPORTANT it is that it has an incandescent bulb. Test lights with LEDs? Throw them away, they're useless. For example, the wires you were concerned with applying +12v to? Simply use a test light connected to +12v. If the bulb lights brightly, it's a straight path to ground. If it lights dimly, it's in circuit with something to ground. The bulb acts as a fuse also, and will blow if you somehow make a big mistake (protecting the circuit), but will generally just light normally if you're connected to ground. You can also connect the light to ground and test for positives. The incandescent bulb will also give a much more... "real world" reading than a voltmeter. A test lamp's incandescent bulb will put an actual load on the circuit, and won't light brightly if there's a significant resistance or poor connection in the circuit... where a voltmeter might read a perfect 12v despite such a problem with the circuit.
They're just more versatile tools in general.
Thanks Madman. This video was an attempt to show someone how to test these circuits without having a battery source just yet in their project. A test light is a great tool if you have a little bit of experience. Many people would look at a dimly lit test light and think everything is fine. There are thousands of people out there doing this for the first time and for them a lit test light is a lit test light. For people that aren't that experienced there is no better way to learn this than using an ohmmeter and recognizing a problem in that circuit. We appreciate you watching and commenting. Jerry and Emily
I need your next video please on accessories. Literally were I’m stuck at right now. On 86 c10 myself. And how to test them as well.
We appreciate you watching! Which accessories are you needing to see?
@@UglyTruckExperience The oil and coolant. I’m assuming the brown/ black wire that connects from the old alternator plug goes to the volt gauge
I've recently found your videos and am enjoying them very much. I live fairly close to you, I'm north of Springfield. I'm just wondering if you only do these swaps on trucks? I have an 83 trans am I'm wanting a 5.3 and a 4l60 put into. I'd like to talk to you about if you would be interested in doing this swap for me.
Hey neighbor! 👋 Send us an email at uglytruckexperience@gmail.com and tell us a little about your project. Thanks for reaching out!
I emailed you a week or so ago but haven't gotten anything back yet. I'll try sending out another email. Can't wait to hear from you!
Question, I rewound the video and there were four wires laying on the fuse box in the beginning of the video. In my vehicle, I found three wires, pink purple and red. None of the other wires seem to be large enough. How do I locate the other large wire? For reference my vehicle is a 72 K5 that has been rewired by a previous owner...then it caught fire, a small fire, so I bought it cheap.
That 72 may only have one power wire going in. I have.a diagram for one. Will take a look and get back to you. Thanks
I looked at a wiring diagram and also looked at our 1972 truck and It also only has one power wire leading into the cab for the interior fuse box. I would check that one large red wire you have for continuity or a short to ground since there was a small fire. If wire seems good. Put battery voltage to it and test that everything is working properly. Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes. Cool truck also, I wish I had one.
@@UglyTruckExperience Thanks for the help! I was scratching my head wondering if it was re-wired w a small gauge wire. One large red wire is good news. I'll test the red like you showed in the video. I'm learning a lot from you guys. Great content!!
Nice shirt Jerry!
Thanks Ray. Are you having any luck with that transmission?
@@UglyTruckExperience I think it is about ready to go back in but now I have been a bad cold and I am not ready!
Question. Putting an LS in a 1961 Pontiac with generator wiring. Obviously I am eliminating the original generator and voltage regulator. There is a large yellow wire at the horn relay junction post from the battery fed by a large red wire. Another heavy wire went from there to the original starter. That yellow wire goes into the fire wall directly to the amp gauge. Then a red wire comes off the other side of the amp gauge and splices into several red branches the under dash harness feeding everything under the dash, and also comes back to the voltage regulator on the outside of the fire wall. I am thinking the I can eliminate the red wire that comes back out to the voltage regulator from the place where it branches from the rest of the red wires to under dash. And I can feed power from the LS fuse box to the Yellow wire that goes to the amp gauge . There are several possible locations to do this from. an ABS 60 fused plug on the underside and a couple 50 fused plugs also on the underside. Or there are two posts on the corners of the fuse box that I could use and possibly put a 50 or 60 amp fuse into one of those. Do I have the right idea? Any recommendations? Will my amp gauge work still?
Then All I need to do is connect my purple ignition starter wire to the C1 -A3 terminal, and my ignition on wire to the C1 - A9 position. Correct? I will also eliminate the old coil wires from the ignition switch that you mentioned in the video, correct?
Hello Bill. What is your donor motor, harness and ECM from? Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience 2004 silverado
The Amp gauge should work with the wiring you described. I think your power wire for ignition will go to c1, position c9. Your message said position a9. Double check that in case I am wrong. Sounds like you are on the right track though. Sounds like your close to firing it up. Let us know how it goes. Jerry and Emily
I use lug number 2 on those boxes to run that power. Any of those you mentioned would work fine though as long as it is protected with a fuse. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience It was my understanding that power needs to go to A9 for ignition power to the PCM but C9 is for the transmission. I was going to power the C9 terminal from the 10amp fused TBC ign 1 terminal A6.
Another question.... what does the ignition relay on the fuse box do? What does it serve and how?
Do you ever use any aftermarket wire harnesses? Would those be easier for more novice installers?
I've never used an aftermarket harness for numerous reasons, but we have a video coming up where we'll talk about why we prefer using the original harness. Great question, and thanks for watching!
Sure fire way to keep project on jackstands longer.
Where did you guys go to to buy your wiring diagram?
Another question would be since this truck is an 86 C10 would the wires be the same on an 88 c30 that came with a tbi 454?
The starter and ignition on wire would be the same pretty much. Everything else would be different. We use Alldata for our diagrams. They do have a reasonably priced program called AlldataDIY. On older truck wiring diagrams, LMC or Summit has a bunch of the older ones. Thanks Shaun. Jerry and Emily
Electron flow is negative to positive. Voltage flow = positive to negative
Thanks P Motorsports, In one of our past videos I had said the opposite. It was an attempt to make looking at a wiring diagram make a little bit more sense. If I have screwed it up in this video I am going to just quite wiring things. Thanks Jerry
hello 👋
Hi Alonso!
The drivers door hinge need WD-40!
We think alike. Thank Griz
Wow all the filler sounds do you forget what your about to say before ya say it!?