👋 Hey guys! Emily here! A viewer Mike pointed out that you can buy the angled oil cooler adapter brand new, so here's a link if anyone's interested. amzn.to/3TEEV0E They're Genuine GM parts and are already drilled and tapped! We appreciate you guys watching, and thanks for all your awesome comments!! 🌽🌽
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks so much for responding. Really appreciate your videos. They're a great asset for non-mechanics like myself. Especially the more detailed ones like this.
Your channel is gold to anyone doing a LS swap, really like how you simplify talking through it all. I know I really appreciate the info and enjoy watching your videos. It's awesome that your daughter is doing this with you. My son grew up helping me with my mechanical projects and ended up being a heavy equipment mechanic for the energy company and really loves his job. Thank you both awesome channel.
Thank you Alfred. I do have a daughter, but she doesn't have much interest in coming out to the shop. Emily and I are actually a married couple. It is a comment that we get quite often. We really appreciate you watching our channel. Jerry and Emily
Now you're doing a truck in the same colors as our 86 Suburban! Love that color combo. Thank you guys for being yourselves and having a good time lol. Not sure if it is something ya'll would want to do to use the factory speedometer but on our Suburban I bought a replacement tail housing for the 4L80 to convert to a mechanical speedometer.
You guys got me!!! I was like who the hell is this? Lol. Ok maybe he has a new channel and they are trying to help him get started. Till Jerry started to talk. You 2 are funny. Great video guys. I'm doing the same thing with my Crown Vic Ls3 swap. I have already turned my Ford harness to a stand alone gauge harness so my Ford gauges will work. I'm going to have to use the Dakota Digital speedo/tach box for my speedo. Can't be a sleeper if you have all of these fancy gauges lol. Thank you guys.
🤣🤣 I do wish there was a more cost effective option for the speedo. Those Dakota Digital boxes work great, but they're pretty proud of them! But you're right, it's gotta be a sleeper! 😁 Thanks for watching, Hugh! --Emily
Gotta ask bout the flex plate LS to a 700 R4 Or 4L80 trans do you need to put adapter in end of crank as a spacer ? Because of depth difference fromSBC to LS . Great Chanel for installing new into old very inexpensively .
I've paired my 5.3l ls with a 700r4 by using the crank shim to line the ls crank to trans stall and oblong the bolt holes on the flywheel on my 5.3l ls and sofar it tied up fine.
Ohmy! (Oh My!) Another great tutorial! I like to use the three pin temperature sensor for the Camaro. (Can’t remember what year Camaro.) But, it provides a signal for the ECM and the gauge (separately). I didn’t know that the Ohm’s were different on the LS… might be why I see a different temp on the gauge than what I see in my tuning software. (Only a couple of degrees, but I’ve lived with it). Using the three pin also made it easier for wiring since I didn’t have to route wires over the top of the block. Again, GREAT video! I love y’all’s intros! This one takes me back to my favorite decade! Rob
Thanks Rob. I might use that sender on the next one we build for ourselves. It seems like every time we do the factory gauges that there is most times a little difference in the temp and I can deal with that no problem. If I know 220 is really 200, all is good. Once you get used to that gauge sitting where it should, everything is fine. That was just the way it was back then. Thanks for watching. We appreciate it. Jerry
FYI, my 1998 Firebird/Camaro LS1 had the 3 wire sensor, if you need to order one in the future. (Of course the gauge output from that sensor does absolutely *no* good for my swap project, which ended up needing a VDO sender to be installed on the opposite head... I'm thinking to swap to a 2 wire sensor for the computer alone, just because they're so much cheaper.)
I'm doing a 2002 5.3 into a 94 s10. 2002 oil pressure sending unit worked with the 94 gauge just fine. For coolant temp I used a 3 wire temp sensor from a 98 5.7 Camaro. 2 wires go to the PCM and the third goes to the gauge. Works great and seems accurate against what the PCM sees. Tach works fine. LS PCM put out a 4 cylinder tach signal which works well with the 94 S10 which had a 2.2 in it. Have not hooked up the check engine light yet and have not hooked up the speedometer yet. Have the data link connector wired in temporarily under the hood but I want to move it into the cab. Got my swap to move under its own power for the first time today. Have a pretty good miss on 7 and 8. Think it nay be plugged up injectors. Long term fuel trims are through the roof and am getting spark according to my spark checker. Have not done a compression test yet either
Hey Shady! Great to hear you got your swap fired up and moving! Hope the misfire issue is something simple. Sounds like you're on the right track. Keep us posted, and thanks for tuning in!
Good video, always great content from you two, thanks. The only comment I have is that I also use the stock oil pump bypass with the spout so when you are deluged with them I could use a half dozen myself but you must be careful using a bypass like the one from ICT especially with the port located in the center of the cover. If you deep thread a fitting into it the fitting can restrict the oil flow through it. I have a friend that did a stock 5.3 swap on a '78 Chevy Monza, he called me because no matter what he did he couldn't get over 30psi of oil pressure in his motor. I found a Ebay adaptor on the bypass port for a mechanical gauge and the fitting was screwed in so far the threads were blocking the oil flow. He was relieved to say the least and I replaced it with one of the stock ones, plenty of pressure after that. As for the engine mounts I also use the clamshells now. On my first swap on my 1968 Chevy C10 I used the stock mounts with the ICT plates but I moved the V8 frame perches to the furthest set of holes back and used the last set of holes back on the adaptors, it left me just enough room for the trans dipstick. Because I chopped and lowered my C10 when I mounted the frame perches I used a piece of 1" square stock under the perch on top of the frame and because the frame crossmember is right at 45* a 1.5" thick piece of 2" bar stock under the bottom bolt set the stock oil pan just flush with the bottom of the frame crossmember, the 1" spacing works great. I'm sure there prettier ways to do it but with me form follows function, only mod I had to do was to roll 16" of the pinch weld at the top of the trans tunnel for bellhousing clearance, everything else fit like a glove. The trans angle was fine but because I'm OCD I did shim it up 1/4", with the trailing arm suspension the pinion angle doesn't really change so you have more latitude on the total angle when you don't have to allow for spring wrap. That stock deep pan is nice, like a poor man's dry sump especially during heavy cornering at rpm.
Thanks Ken! That would be nerve wracking to build an engine and then have something like that affect the oil pressure. I'm sure he was pulling his hair out over that one. I can't remember which hole we used on the ICT adapters on our 70, but that sounds about right. Hope you had a great Christmas! We always look forward to your comments! --Emily and Jerry
Excellent way to check the gauges . Also if you have power and the gauge doesn't move the gauge is probably bad .great video guys Happy New Year to all !🎉
Hello Kevin. Your absolutely right. I should have mentioned that. It does happen fairly often that that gauge is shot. Thanks for you comment. Happy New Year to you. Jerry and Emily
I enjoy this channel. Watching this I am leaning towards a Ls swap into my 1984 gmc truck. Both the 305 and 350 trans are shot.so a 5.3 and 4l60e would be a nice edition to my 84.
Jerry had me fooled, he looks so different without a hat and with sunglasses. Crossing my fingers we get more 67-72 c10 LS swaps. Jerry mentioned a couple times they are tighter room wise. Such great content and editing! Happy holidays!
He's a cool dude! 🤣😎 I've been wanting to make some changes to the fuel system on my 70 C10, which would be a great time to show more of the 67-72 swaps. I'll see what we can do! 😁 Thanks Bill! Hope you guys have a great Christmas! --Emily
Thanks guys, Great video. Love the details and answered a few questions I had too. How do y’all feel about the ICT valley cover that omits the knock sensors ?
Hey Andrew. I don't think I have seen that cover. I have wondered about just moving the sensors out to the block. Same as the DOD's and the LT's. If they still functioned normally, it would be nice to be able to get to them without removing the intake. I will take a look at them. Thanks. Jerry
I wana keep my oil cooler lines hooked up lol Do you have a link for the attachment at 6:56for back top of the motor to keep original sending switch as well plzzzzz
Here you go David. www.amazon.com/Vibrant-Engine-Pressure-Adapter-Fitting/dp/B09MQXY6D1?crid=1GBCP3AZUM3X1&keywords=16790+fitting&qid=1703348258&sprefix=16790+fitting,aps,109&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=uglytruckexpe-20&linkId=67f1401ed7ea360d78fdc2f05a52e76a&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
I have the oil cooler line set up which has a plugged port to the rear side, also the oil priming port at front of engine. Could either of these be used for the square body oil pressure sending unit, thx
Hey Ken, I'm a bit behind on responding to comments. Yes, either of those would work fine. If I was going to pick one. I would go with the one on the rear of the engine. Thanks for watching. Jerry
In the video you mentioned using the oil cap from the donor engine and threading a 1/4 inch NPT for the sending unit. I am using a 2000 LM7 which has that angled oil cap and I am planing to use a 1985 oil sender. The 1985 sender I have seems to be a 1/8NPT 27 pitch. Is this possible? I am a little scared to thread it, I wanted to double check to see if your sender was 1/4 NPT or if you meant to say 1/8 NPT in your video. Thanks for the ideas! I’m trying to run my original gauges using your video!
So also on oil you can get an adapter put it factory location then just screw your sensor in to it if your not gonna use the factory ls sensor as well and then water temp run a 98 Camaro 5.7 3 wire temp sensor 2 wires go to pcm the green on the pigtail is your gauge
Hello, great video as usual! My question is if you use stock or after market gauges with there own sending unit do you have to still have to run the LS sending units to PCM? If not does anything have to be deleted or changed in the PCM. You mention you use the LS sending units to read codes so other than that must you have them? Thanks and have a blessed day!
Hello RN. It all depends on what you are using for a computer and how it is programmed. You will definitely need a coolant temperature signal sent to you ECM. The only issue with not having the oil pressure going to the ECM is it throwing a code for oil pressure. Depending on what your ECM is, it may not make your MIL light illuminate. Thanks for watching. We appreciate it. Jerry and Emily
Have you swapped at OBS Chevy? I’ve got a 1988 c1500 that I’m putting a LQ4 and 4L60e into. Would be great to see you guys a video series on that particular truck. Your squarebody swap videos are great and I’ve learned a lot watching them. Thanks for doing this channel! Todd
I think the three wire sensor was used in a tpi motor. You could have the factory temp sensor turned down and threaded to fit the passenger side head for the factory gauge
It's a Dakota Digital adapter that converts the VSS signal to a mechanical cable drive to run the original C10 speedometer. Here's a link to a video where we installed one on our 1970. ua-cam.com/video/hLqXYWG_WhY/v-deo.html
Hi again still working on my 84 chevy 4x4 Check the voltage had 7 on the meter, is that enough to make the tank switch change tanks? Then the fuel tank gauges both show full and lost my dash lights and no power to the tank switch. Thanks Russ
was a 305 and has 350 now all started when I could not put fuel in one side changed the 6 port valve lost the fuel tanks not lost gauge light the switch that changes the tank.
Hi Cesar! We'll have more info on the speedometer adapter in the next video on this truck, but here's a couple links. There are a couple different options depending on how the speedo cable attaches to the dash. Thread On Cable: amzn.to/42de1iu Clip On Cable: amzn.to/499LZqo Hope this helps! Thanks for watching! --Emily and Jerry
Hi David, they're made by Dakota Digital, part number ECD-200BT-2 for the clip on style cable, and ECD-200BT-1 for the older thread on style cables. Here's a link! amzn.to/3wyWBSf
Hi Reynaldo! We haven't done it, but I've seen several squarebodies on modern frames. I'm sure it can be done but not sure what needs to be done to make it work. We actually have a 1966 Ford F100 we'd like to do that to someday. Thanks for watching and commenting! Emily and Jerry
Question im stumped on how to get my voltage gauge ip and running. I got my oil pressure and coolant temperature guages working. I just can't figure out this voltage gauge. Any help would be appreciated
Hello Terrell. The voltage gauge should work just by supplying power to the interior of the truck. The power that goes to the rest of the gauges goes through that voltmeter and powers up the other gauges. If your other gauges are working, you might just have a bad gauge. I will take a look at a 85 wiring diagram just in case. Jerry
Hey Jerry and Emily, you all do dig kinda deep in your wiring videos, Excellent! So, I have an 86 with an original speedo/tach cluster (small gas gauge where a clock would be). Do you ever think you’ll ever try to drive an original tach with an 0411/E38 etc tach signal? Thanks, Mike
Hello Mike. I would love to do that. We have never had one come through here with a OEM tach. As soon as one does, I am sure we would jump on the opportunity to video that. Thanks. Jerry
Your tach wire is in connector 2 at the ecm. It is a white wire in position 10. If you still have the c100 connector in the harness you can also find the end of that wire there in position K in the plug. It went from there, into the interior and to the instrument cluster for tach. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience got it i think i do have it still thanks a lot 👍 im doing my first la swap and u guys are so helpful and have really nice detailed videos
Gotcha! I believe he usually just hooks the ratchet strap on both frame rails. The engine wants to tip backwards without the transmission in place, so he's just balancing it on the motor mounts. If we needed to move the truck before we got the trans installed, we'd put another strap from the top of the core support to the front of the engine to keep it forward also. Hope this helps! Thanks Papergatorz! --Emily
Hi my name is wayne and i Have 71 chevy c10 i dont Know what to do go swap 5.3 engine or efi sniper 2 I dont know what want you recommend me let me know I appreciate it thank You
Hello Wayne. We have done both to Emily's 1970 C10. Our reasoning for doing the LS swap on it was not being happy with the performance of the EFI. It did work much better than the worn out carb that was on it though. After spending what we did on the EFI I had just wished we spent that money on the LS. Let us know what you end up doing. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
Hey guys Pretty funny intro 😂 have you considered using dirty dingo adjustable slider mounts? Wondering if that’ll make it easier for engine/transmission placement for stock crossmember?
Hey Jmoe! We've looked at those mounts but have never tried them. Check out this video too. ua-cam.com/video/hBGIVLHMeh8/v-deo.html Using these mounts and a stock 2wd 4L60E trans mount from the donor on the original trans crossmember, the engine and trans end up sitting perfectly. We appreciate you watching and commenting! --Emily and Jerry
GM uses (or used) green wire for coolant temp wiring because that was the color of the antifreeze, which you should be using instead of plain water. Then they threw the orange DexCool into the game... Thanks for the info about how to run two oil pressure sensors off of one oil pressure port when you're using the oil cooler. And the first person that comes in to change the # 8 spark plug will probably say ugly things about you.
Hello Rick. It looks like it would interfere with that #8 plug a bit but it really doesn't. #8 is the worst one to get to anyway so I hope at that point they won't notice it. Ahhhh!!!!! Green antifreeze!!! Those were the days. Appreciate you watching. Jerry
Hey Cody. Your 73 k5 should look very similar to the bulk head on this truck. Fewer wires most likely but pretty much the same for the most part. Thanks for watching. 73 k5.. Nice. Jerry
Where's our ICT hats!? Surely we've bought enough motor mount adapters to have earned a hat... 🤣 Thanks for tuning in, Tim! Hope you had a great Christmas! --Emily
Hey Oscar. The driveshaft needs to have 3/4 of an inch of endplay. If you move engine back and the driveshaft is in too far you would need to have it shortened. Jerry
Hello Jonny. There are a bunch of people out there doing that exact thing. We have not had anybody send us one to do yet, but we would love to do one. Jerrry
Got another question! Are you using pure copper wire? Or is it Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA)? Many many suppliers are selling CCA because it’s cheaper to produce. From my experience with CCA, it has a very short life, especially in wet environments. You know how aluminum oxidizes and gets that white, very non-conductive buildup? Imagine a whole harness you built for a dune buggy and routed in very tight quarters having to be redone in 6 months. It’s no-bueno!! I know you’re careful Jerry, but watch out!! Chinesium alloys are out there, and they creep into projects at night when we’re sleeping…. On that happy thought, I want to wish you and your families a very Merry Christmas, and a great New Year! Love you guys!!
Hello John. It all depends on what I am using the wire on. In this video, that wire is definitely copper aluminum. But, say for instance I was wiring the cooling fans I will use marine grade copper wire. I go through so much wire that I have to pick and choose where it warrants paying the extra price. Whichever I am using I try to stress keeping that connection sealed and protected from the elements. Thanks for your question. Your always thinking. I appreciate it. Have a Great Cristmas and New Years also. Jerry and Emily
❤👻👻👻👻👻Yeaaaaaaa’ My Two’ Favorite Truck Builder’s on UA-cam.. Wishing you 👫A Merry Christmas.. Ill be Watching until Yall are Done.. oh’ This Truck will be Done Right’ No Worries From here.😄✌🏾
👋 Hey guys! Emily here! A viewer Mike pointed out that you can buy the angled oil cooler adapter brand new, so here's a link if anyone's interested. amzn.to/3TEEV0E They're Genuine GM parts and are already drilled and tapped! We appreciate you guys watching, and thanks for all your awesome comments!! 🌽🌽
جج😂جج😂ج😂ج😂ج😂جج
This amazon link shows the adapter but calls it an engine oil pan cover. What have I done wrong?
I have noticed that on some of the ads too. I guess that's what GM calls it. But it's the right part, I promise! Thanks for tuning in! --Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks so much for responding. Really appreciate your videos. They're a great asset for non-mechanics like myself. Especially the more detailed ones like this.
Thank you!
Your channel is gold to anyone doing a LS swap, really like how you simplify talking through it all. I know I really appreciate the info and enjoy watching your videos. It's awesome that your daughter is doing this with you. My son grew up helping me with my mechanical projects and ended up being a heavy equipment mechanic for the energy company and really loves his job. Thank you both awesome channel.
Thank you Alfred. I do have a daughter, but she doesn't have much interest in coming out to the shop. Emily and I are actually a married couple. It is a comment that we get quite often. We really appreciate you watching our channel. Jerry and Emily
Now you're doing a truck in the same colors as our 86 Suburban! Love that color combo. Thank you guys for being yourselves and having a good time lol. Not sure if it is something ya'll would want to do to use the factory speedometer but on our Suburban I bought a replacement tail housing for the 4L80 to convert to a mechanical speedometer.
Thanks CW! I've seen people talk about that conversion. Do you have a video on it? --Emily
Hi guys, glad to see you're still updating many things on the LS/C10. Love all your video's and keep up the great work! Mike
Hey Mike! 👋 Hope you're doing well! Thanks for tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
You guys got me!!! I was like who the hell is this? Lol. Ok maybe he has a new channel and they are trying to help him get started. Till Jerry started to talk. You 2 are funny. Great video guys. I'm doing the same thing with my Crown Vic Ls3 swap. I have already turned my Ford harness to a stand alone gauge harness so my Ford gauges will work. I'm going to have to use the Dakota Digital speedo/tach box for my speedo. Can't be a sleeper if you have all of these fancy gauges lol. Thank you guys.
🤣🤣 I do wish there was a more cost effective option for the speedo. Those Dakota Digital boxes work great, but they're pretty proud of them! But you're right, it's gotta be a sleeper! 😁 Thanks for watching, Hugh! --Emily
That trick with the temp wire is pretty slick! Really cool bro 😎. I’m ready now sir haha. Thank you for sharing that!
Thanks Bowtie! I'm sure someone out there sells a fancy pants connector, but 2 inches of heat shrink is a lot cheaper! 😁
Gotta ask bout the flex plate LS to a 700 R4 Or 4L80 trans do you need to put adapter in end of crank as a spacer ? Because of depth difference fromSBC to LS . Great Chanel for installing new into old very inexpensively .
Hello Johnny. If you are putting in an LS, The 4l80 does use a spacer and a 700r4 would not use one. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
I've paired my 5.3l ls with a 700r4 by using the crank shim to line the ls crank to trans stall and oblong the bolt holes on the flywheel on my 5.3l ls and sofar it tied up fine.
Ohmy! (Oh My!)
Another great tutorial!
I like to use the three pin temperature sensor for the Camaro. (Can’t remember what year Camaro.) But, it provides a signal for the ECM and the gauge (separately). I didn’t know that the Ohm’s were different on the LS… might be why I see a different temp on the gauge than what I see in my tuning software. (Only a couple of degrees, but I’ve lived with it).
Using the three pin also made it easier for wiring since I didn’t have to route wires over the top of the block.
Again, GREAT video! I love y’all’s intros! This one takes me back to my favorite decade!
Rob
Thanks Rob. I might use that sender on the next one we build for ourselves. It seems like every time we do the factory gauges that there is most times a little difference in the temp and I can deal with that no problem. If I know 220 is really 200, all is good. Once you get used to that gauge sitting where it should, everything is fine. That was just the way it was back then. Thanks for watching. We appreciate it. Jerry
FYI, my 1998 Firebird/Camaro LS1 had the 3 wire sensor, if you need to order one in the future.
(Of course the gauge output from that sensor does absolutely *no* good for my swap project, which ended up needing a VDO sender to be installed on the opposite head... I'm thinking to swap to a 2 wire sensor for the computer alone, just because they're so much cheaper.)
You too have a awesome channel! Very informative and always giving out some great information. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Bubba! We appreciate you watching!
I've done this on my 1986 Suburban .
I had no issue tapping the coolant hole 3/8"NPT.
#317 heads, 6.0 puts sender directly into
the coolant.
Thanks Scott. I think I am going to try that on the next one that we do for ourselves. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily.
Thank you for posting this video it was very helpful to finally figure out how to trace my wiring
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching, Rufus! --Emily and Jerry
Thanks guys!! This is the vid I have been waiting on!! Merry Christmas to you and your fur babies!!
Awesome! Thanks for tuning in, and Merry Christmas, David! --Emily and Jerry
I'm doing a 2002 5.3 into a 94 s10. 2002 oil pressure sending unit worked with the 94 gauge just fine. For coolant temp I used a 3 wire temp sensor from a 98 5.7 Camaro. 2 wires go to the PCM and the third goes to the gauge. Works great and seems accurate against what the PCM sees. Tach works fine. LS PCM put out a 4 cylinder tach signal which works well with the 94 S10 which had a 2.2 in it. Have not hooked up the check engine light yet and have not hooked up the speedometer yet. Have the data link connector wired in temporarily under the hood but I want to move it into the cab. Got my swap to move under its own power for the first time today. Have a pretty good miss on 7 and 8. Think it nay be plugged up injectors. Long term fuel trims are through the roof and am getting spark according to my spark checker. Have not done a compression test yet either
Hey Shady! Great to hear you got your swap fired up and moving! Hope the misfire issue is something simple. Sounds like you're on the right track. Keep us posted, and thanks for tuning in!
Good video, always great content from you two, thanks. The only comment I have is that I also use the stock oil pump bypass with the spout so when you are deluged with them I could use a half dozen myself but you must be careful using a bypass like the one from ICT especially with the port located in the center of the cover. If you deep thread a fitting into it the fitting can restrict the oil flow through it. I have a friend that did a stock 5.3 swap on a '78 Chevy Monza, he called me because no matter what he did he couldn't get over 30psi of oil pressure in his motor. I found a Ebay adaptor on the bypass port for a mechanical gauge and the fitting was screwed in so far the threads were blocking the oil flow. He was relieved to say the least and I replaced it with one of the stock ones, plenty of pressure after that. As for the engine mounts I also use the clamshells now. On my first swap on my 1968 Chevy C10 I used the stock mounts with the ICT plates but I moved the V8 frame perches to the furthest set of holes back and used the last set of holes back on the adaptors, it left me just enough room for the trans dipstick. Because I chopped and lowered my C10 when I mounted the frame perches I used a piece of 1" square stock under the perch on top of the frame and because the frame crossmember is right at 45* a 1.5" thick piece of 2" bar stock under the bottom bolt set the stock oil pan just flush with the bottom of the frame crossmember, the 1" spacing works great. I'm sure there prettier ways to do it but with me form follows function, only mod I had to do was to roll 16" of the pinch weld at the top of the trans tunnel for bellhousing clearance, everything else fit like a glove. The trans angle was fine but because I'm OCD I did shim it up 1/4", with the trailing arm suspension the pinion angle doesn't really change so you have more latitude on the total angle when you don't have to allow for spring wrap. That stock deep pan is nice, like a poor man's dry sump especially during heavy cornering at rpm.
Thanks Ken! That would be nerve wracking to build an engine and then have something like that affect the oil pressure. I'm sure he was pulling his hair out over that one. I can't remember which hole we used on the ICT adapters on our 70, but that sounds about right. Hope you had a great Christmas! We always look forward to your comments! --Emily and Jerry
Excellent way to check the gauges . Also if you have power and the gauge doesn't move the gauge is probably bad .great video guys Happy New Year to all !🎉
Hello Kevin. Your absolutely right. I should have mentioned that. It does happen fairly often that that gauge is shot. Thanks for you comment. Happy New Year to you. Jerry and Emily
I enjoy this channel. Watching this I am leaning towards a Ls swap into my 1984 gmc truck. Both the 305 and 350 trans are shot.so a 5.3 and 4l60e would be a nice edition to my 84.
Thanks Elias! You won't regret it! Best of luck with your truck, whichever route you decide! --Emily and Jerry
Your channel is awesome. Keep up the great work
Thanks so much! We appreciate you watching! 👍
Jerry had me fooled, he looks so different without a hat and with sunglasses. Crossing my fingers we get more 67-72 c10 LS swaps. Jerry mentioned a couple times they are tighter room wise. Such great content and editing! Happy holidays!
He's a cool dude! 🤣😎 I've been wanting to make some changes to the fuel system on my 70 C10, which would be a great time to show more of the 67-72 swaps. I'll see what we can do! 😁 Thanks Bill! Hope you guys have a great Christmas! --Emily
Thanks guys, Great video. Love the details and answered a few questions I had too. How do y’all feel about the ICT valley cover that omits the knock sensors ?
Hey Andrew. I don't think I have seen that cover. I have wondered about just moving the sensors out to the block. Same as the DOD's and the LT's. If they still functioned normally, it would be nice to be able to get to them without removing the intake. I will take a look at them. Thanks. Jerry
Wire loom tool. $16.99 Amazon!!! Friggin Awesome!!!!!
So worth it!!! I put a link in the description if anyone is interested! --Emily
I wana keep my oil cooler lines hooked up lol Do you have a link for the attachment at 6:56for back top of the motor to keep original sending switch as well plzzzzz
Here you go David. www.amazon.com/Vibrant-Engine-Pressure-Adapter-Fitting/dp/B09MQXY6D1?crid=1GBCP3AZUM3X1&keywords=16790+fitting&qid=1703348258&sprefix=16790+fitting,aps,109&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=uglytruckexpe-20&linkId=67f1401ed7ea360d78fdc2f05a52e76a&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
I have the oil cooler line set up which has a plugged port to the rear side, also the oil priming port at front of engine. Could either of these be used for the square body oil pressure sending unit, thx
Hey Ken, I'm a bit behind on responding to comments. Yes, either of those would work fine. If I was going to pick one. I would go with the one on the rear of the engine. Thanks for watching. Jerry
In the video you mentioned using the oil cap from the donor engine and threading a 1/4 inch NPT for the sending unit. I am using a 2000 LM7 which has that angled oil cap and I am planing to use a 1985 oil sender. The 1985 sender I have seems to be a 1/8NPT 27 pitch. Is this possible? I am a little scared to thread it, I wanted to double check to see if your sender was 1/4 NPT or if you meant to say 1/8 NPT in your video. Thanks for the ideas! I’m trying to run my original gauges using your video!
Hello Ivan. That is 1/8 inch thread. I misspoke in that video. Should have said 1/8. Sorry for late response. We have been busy. Thanks. Jerry
You can also use a 45° fitting for the adapter
Hey Ray. You absolutely could. Happy New Year...Jerry and Emily
So also on oil you can get an adapter put it factory location then just screw your sensor in to it if your not gonna use the factory ls sensor as well and then water temp run a 98 Camaro 5.7 3 wire temp sensor 2 wires go to pcm the green on the pigtail is your gauge
Yes, you can do that. We mentioned that in this video also. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
How about the tachometer? Great video, this helps so much!
It's on our to-do list! 😁 We have a swap coming up that will use the tach, so we'll be sure to do a video then. Thanks for tuning in!
Hello, great video as usual! My question is if you use stock or after market gauges with there own sending unit do you have to still have to run the LS sending units to PCM? If not does anything have to be deleted or changed in the PCM. You mention you use the LS sending units to read codes so other than that must you have them? Thanks and have a blessed day!
Hello RN. It all depends on what you are using for a computer and how it is programmed. You will definitely need a coolant temperature signal sent to you ECM. The only issue with not having the oil pressure going to the ECM is it throwing a code for oil pressure. Depending on what your ECM is, it may not make your MIL light illuminate. Thanks for watching. We appreciate it. Jerry and Emily
Thanks for the info. I just went ahead and copied what you did. Thanks
Have you swapped at OBS Chevy? I’ve got a 1988 c1500 that I’m putting a LQ4 and 4L60e into. Would be great to see you guys a video series on that particular truck. Your squarebody swap videos are great and I’ve learned a lot watching them. Thanks for doing this channel!
Todd
Thanks Todd! We haven't swapped an OBS, but it's on our to-do list! Thanks for watching our stuff! --Emily
I think the three wire sensor was used in a tpi motor. You could have the factory temp sensor turned down and threaded to fit the passenger side head for the factory gauge
Thanks Major. We appreciate you watching and commenting. Jerry and Emily
What was that box that you were going to make the speedometer work with?
It's a Dakota Digital adapter that converts the VSS signal to a mechanical cable drive to run the original C10 speedometer. Here's a link to a video where we installed one on our 1970. ua-cam.com/video/hLqXYWG_WhY/v-deo.html
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks!
Hi again still working on my 84 chevy 4x4 Check the voltage had 7 on the meter, is that enough to make the tank switch change tanks? Then the fuel tank gauges both show full and lost my dash lights and no power to the tank switch. Thanks Russ
Hello Russel. Is this a swap, or are you working on the stock 84?
was a 305 and has 350 now all started when I could not put fuel in one side changed the 6 port valve lost the fuel tanks not lost gauge light the switch that changes the tank.
Summit sells the oil cover plates with the angled port
We'll check it out! Thanks for watching, Mike! --Emily and Jerry
Hey guys! Were we can buy the instrument for the speed dometer
Hi Cesar! We'll have more info on the speedometer adapter in the next video on this truck, but here's a couple links. There are a couple different options depending on how the speedo cable attaches to the dash.
Thread On Cable: amzn.to/42de1iu
Clip On Cable: amzn.to/499LZqo
Hope this helps! Thanks for watching! --Emily and Jerry
What is that speedometer box I need one for my truck it's a mechanical speedometer and I'm doing 5.3 nv4500 trans which has electric speed sensor
Hi David, they're made by Dakota Digital, part number ECD-200BT-2 for the clip on style cable, and ECD-200BT-1 for the older thread on style cables. Here's a link! amzn.to/3wyWBSf
Can you add a link to the butt connectors that you use inside the gas tank?
Hey Crash! Here's a link. amzn.to/3XfGnHZ
@@UglyTruckExperience Very cool. Thank you. What crimpers do you guys use? They look cool.
Here's a link to those too! They've always worked great for us. amzn.to/4736a9U
I love you videos hey you think I can use a 2002 Yukon frame for my 78 Chevy C 10
Hi Reynaldo! We haven't done it, but I've seen several squarebodies on modern frames. I'm sure it can be done but not sure what needs to be done to make it work. We actually have a 1966 Ford F100 we'd like to do that to someday. Thanks for watching and commenting! Emily and Jerry
Question im stumped on how to get my voltage gauge ip and running. I got my oil pressure and coolant temperature guages working. I just can't figure out this voltage gauge. Any help would be appreciated
Hello Terrell. The voltage gauge should work just by supplying power to the interior of the truck. The power that goes to the rest of the gauges goes through that voltmeter and powers up the other gauges. If your other gauges are working, you might just have a bad gauge. I will take a look at a 85 wiring diagram just in case. Jerry
I was leaning towards a bad voltage gauge. Thank you for your input. UTX FTW as usual
Hey Jerry and Emily, you all do dig kinda deep in your wiring videos, Excellent! So, I have an 86 with an original speedo/tach cluster (small gas gauge where a clock would be). Do you ever think you’ll ever try to drive an original tach with an 0411/E38 etc tach signal?
Thanks, Mike
Hello Mike. I would love to do that. We have never had one come through here with a OEM tach. As soon as one does, I am sure we would jump on the opportunity to video that. Thanks. Jerry
Do you guys know what cable is to conect a rpm tec on a lq9
It depends on what you are using for a donor ECM and harness. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience all the stock wires from a 2002 escalade ext
Your tach wire is in connector 2 at the ecm. It is a white wire in position 10. If you still have the c100 connector in the harness you can also find the end of that wire there in position K in the plug. It went from there, into the interior and to the instrument cluster for tach. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience got it i think i do have it still thanks a lot 👍 im doing my first la swap and u guys are so helpful and have really nice detailed videos
What did he connect the ratchet to so he could adjust the motor?
Hello Papergator. I'm not sure what part of the video you are asking about. Let me know and I will see if I can answer that question. Thanks. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperienceat 37:50 he was underneath the truck and he was ratcheting the strap to adjust/raise the engine.
Gotcha! I believe he usually just hooks the ratchet strap on both frame rails. The engine wants to tip backwards without the transmission in place, so he's just balancing it on the motor mounts. If we needed to move the truck before we got the trans installed, we'd put another strap from the top of the core support to the front of the engine to keep it forward also. Hope this helps! Thanks Papergatorz! --Emily
Sure it isn’t 1/8” NPT on the oil pressure switch ?
Hello Larry. Yes it is 1/8. Thanks for catching that. Jerry
I do not see the links you mentioned in your video.
Thanks Fuelie! I'll add them right now! --Emily
The C10 oil pressure sending unit link in the description is an 1/8 NPT not 1/4 NPT just in case anyone is looking for the 1/4
Thanks for catching that Kolt. I did not notice that error. Thanks for watching. Jerry
Hi my name is wayne and i
Have 71 chevy c10 i dont
Know what to do go swap 5.3 engine or efi sniper 2
I dont know what want you recommend me let me know I appreciate it thank
You
Hello Wayne. We have done both to Emily's 1970 C10. Our reasoning for doing the LS swap on it was not being happy with the performance of the EFI. It did work much better than the worn out carb that was on it though. After spending what we did on the EFI I had just wished we spent that money on the LS. Let us know what you end up doing. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
Hey guys
Pretty funny intro 😂 have you considered using dirty dingo adjustable slider mounts? Wondering if that’ll make it easier for engine/transmission placement for stock crossmember?
Hey Jmoe! We've looked at those mounts but have never tried them. Check out this video too. ua-cam.com/video/hBGIVLHMeh8/v-deo.html Using these mounts and a stock 2wd 4L60E trans mount from the donor on the original trans crossmember, the engine and trans end up sitting perfectly. We appreciate you watching and commenting! --Emily and Jerry
Was this an all aluminum motor?
Hello Lucas. This motor is a LQ9 which is cast iron block with aluminum heads. Thanks for watching. We appreciate it. Jerry and Emily
GM uses (or used) green wire for coolant temp wiring because that was the color of the antifreeze, which you should be using instead of plain water.
Then they threw the orange DexCool into the game...
Thanks for the info about how to run two oil pressure sensors off of one oil pressure port when you're using the oil cooler.
And the first person that comes in to change the # 8 spark plug will probably say ugly things about you.
Hello Rick. It looks like it would interfere with that #8 plug a bit but it really doesn't. #8 is the worst one to get to anyway so I hope at that point they won't notice it. Ahhhh!!!!! Green antifreeze!!! Those were the days. Appreciate you watching. Jerry
My bulk head wires on my 73 k5 look totally different than all of the ones I can find on line
Hey Cody. Your 73 k5 should look very similar to the bulk head on this truck. Fewer wires most likely but pretty much the same for the most part. Thanks for watching. 73 k5.. Nice. Jerry
stapleton42 had ICT T's shirts and hats 😀
Where's our ICT hats!? Surely we've bought enough motor mount adapters to have earned a hat... 🤣 Thanks for tuning in, Tim! Hope you had a great Christmas! --Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience it was more along the lines of I see TT’s 😝
OMG 🤦♀️🤦♀️ ICT T's... 🤣🤣🤣 You got me on that one!
By pushing it back another inch it won’t hurt the driveshaft
Hey Oscar. The driveshaft needs to have 3/4 of an inch of endplay. If you move engine back and the driveshaft is in too far you would need to have it shortened. Jerry
Can you guys put a 5.3 in a 1995 chevy truck
Hello Jonny. There are a bunch of people out there doing that exact thing. We have not had anybody send us one to do yet, but we would love to do one. Jerrry
Well you can do it with my 95 chevy and I love your guys videos
Thanks Jonny. We appreciate you watching. If your wanting one done, send us an email. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
What is your email
It's uglytruckexperience@gmail.com. Thanks Jonny! --Emily
Got another question! Are you using pure copper wire? Or is it Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA)? Many many suppliers are selling CCA because it’s cheaper to produce. From my experience with CCA, it has a very short life, especially in wet environments. You know how aluminum oxidizes and gets that white, very non-conductive buildup? Imagine a whole harness you built for a dune buggy and routed in very tight quarters having to be redone in 6 months. It’s no-bueno!! I know you’re careful Jerry, but watch out!! Chinesium alloys are out there, and they creep into projects at night when we’re sleeping…. On that happy thought, I want to wish you and your families a very Merry Christmas, and a great New Year! Love you guys!!
Hello John. It all depends on what I am using the wire on. In this video, that wire is definitely copper aluminum. But, say for instance I was wiring the cooling fans I will use marine grade copper wire. I go through so much wire that I have to pick and choose where it warrants paying the extra price. Whichever I am using I try to stress keeping that connection sealed and protected from the elements. Thanks for your question. Your always thinking. I appreciate it. Have a Great Cristmas and New Years also. Jerry and Emily
well good morning 🙏
Hi Alonso!
❤👻👻👻👻👻Yeaaaaaaa’ My Two’ Favorite Truck Builder’s on UA-cam.. Wishing you 👫A Merry Christmas.. Ill be Watching until Yall are Done.. oh’ This Truck will be Done Right’ No Worries From here.😄✌🏾
Merry Christmas to you too, Bernando! We appreciate you watching our stuff! --Emily and Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience 👻❤️👻😀
Me gusta TU canal I like
Gracias Arturo! Gracias por ver!