The Big Moment | First Engine Start Attempt VR6 3.2 Volkswagen Caddy MK1 - Episode 20
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- Опубліковано 13 кві 2024
- Get ready for the moment we've all been waiting for in the Caddy MK1 transformation journey! 🚗💨 In this exciting episode, we gear up for the first start of the VR6-powered Caddy. From sorting out the oil cooler, fitting the radiator and coolant hoses , and revealing the final colour of the air intake manifold. All in preparation for the first start.
🛠️ Products Used in this Episode:
Radiator : Made by Creative aluminium fabrications
Oil cooler: www.heritagepartscentre.com/u...
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Instagram: @Zaksgarage
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Thanks for being an important part of this epic VR6 engine installation adventure. Stay tuned for more exhilarating updates on the Caddy MK1 transformation! 🛠️🚀
#CaddyMK1 #VR6Engine #AutomotiveAdventure - Авто та транспорт
Top notch workmanship buddy lots of love from south Africa Johannesburg
We need more content please buddy lots of love from south Africa Johannesburg 🇿🇦
Did you do the immobilizer delete on the ecu?
The engine will start for a second and then shut down if the ecu is not de-immobilised
Definitely immobiliser if fuel pump is not priming neither is it sparking
I had same problem when I did engine swap on my golf car won’t necessarily even fire if it’s immobilised
😅😊@@sharki23
Excellent effort, buddy. Lots of love from South Africa. Cape Town
I'm pretty sure you have a power/ground issue. I don't hear any throttle bottle when the ignition is on (not cranking). Pin 1/2 ground, Pin 3 switched power, Pin 21/62 constant power. Make sure you also have power (pin 16)/ground (pin 4/5) on the OBD port
Respect buddy awesome stuff and lots of love from south Africa Johannesburg
Hi on ur engine harness more towards the starter there's a connector which requires a earth and ignition power as well
Great colour choice for the inlet. One thing I would suggest is to beef up your earth to the battery. I have a battery relocation in the same place and I had starting issues. Swapped the earth wire out for a beefier one and it was fine.
For your starting issues double check the ecu plugs are properly done up. It’s weird you can’t see the ecu at all. So the basics are a good place to start.
You got it Brother! The issue will reveal itself soon enough. Beautiful build!!
Respect! Keep at it my mate.
From watching your videos and seeing your not just some humble mechanic, you have a philosopher's soul. I have faith You'll work it out! In your own humble way 😁
Nice work too.
The Intake manifold look sick 🔥
I had a vt6 engine in my 90s corrado. A great engine choice indeed.
Love the colour of the manifold !!!
Quality work done right well done.
eres todo un artista saludos
Very good job on the intake manifold! Awesome project and great work so far!
ABSOLUTE FIRE BRO, looking forward to seeing this sleeper build hit the road.
Love everything about this series, love every R32 R36 build video on the tube
Amazing build Zak 👏🏽!! It will start part of the fun enjoy 🚙 💨
chugging along nicely, congrats mate. If you have cooling issues down the road, I'm sure a fan shroud would go a long way in addressing them
looking great
Another wicked video mate, this has really come on 🙏🏾👍🏾
Looks better and better
Quality job bro. Proper resto mod 👌🏻
Top job mate. Very interesting and well executed build
Sick brother!
Wooohooo Zaks Guinness
Been a sub since your 1st 1k subs. The project is awesome yo. Keep up the great work.👍🏼👍🏼🤜🏼🤛🏼👏🏼👏🏼😁🍻
Looking REALLY nice! That thing is going to go like a rocket for sure, good job you got the 1000bhp rocket oil. 😆
I need to do this to my Passat B3 👏🏻
Perfect color choice for the air intake manifold.
I suggest that you maybe double check the Engine Timing.
The Quality of your content reminds me that of Mat Amstrong. I guess you kinda do the same job
Hi all the way from South Africa. Could be ecu needs decoding. Becase should read from a transponder key. If that all good then check your ignition could be giving power whe on but cuts off when cranking.
Someone built a swapped Mk1 focus with a 6.7 supercharged v8 and rear wheel drive, well okay but?
It sure was a ton of work and a ton of effort and... fast in a straight line.
Could also have been -
- front mid front drive
- rear mid rear drive
- front mid AWD
- rear mid AWD
Think about the Fiat 128 and X1/9 - they just moved the engine and transaxle from front to mid and designed a 2 seat body around it.
So if you make a Caddy mid engine rear wheel drive, the body basically looks too long or not wide enough.
But if you moved the rear axle back a little, widened the track and lowered it, it would be nuts.
The reason is because a Caddy is very light at the back, and is a cab forward layout in some ways not dissimilar to a mid engine car with 4 seats for example a Dino 308GT4 (ferrari)
If ur getting no communication on vcds it’s the can wire issue ur grounds u have used didn’t seem to be on bare metal may be wrong there but from the angles looked like u put them straight to paint
Only just found your channel reminds me of rrc the way you film it
Mine was a dead crank sensor, you can also check whether your ecu is decoded/open
Needs de-mobilising on ECU, you’re using mk1 clocks (VR are coded) and mk1 key with no immobiliser ring. K line wants wiring in to pin 43 from memory so you can connect to obd. Have you connected brake switch/clutch switch?
You should have way more subs. Honestly love this build, great engine my mate had 3.2 v6 in a mk1 golf went like shit off a shovel.
It could be the mobiliser? Hope you get it sorted fella.
Mate is coming along nicely and had my fingers crossed for the first start..
I keep thinking immobiliser unless you had that removed from the ecu?
The fuelpump rele is broken, the same rele are for the ignition. Change that and i bet it will start up. I had the same problem :)
Hey, i have the same issue on my vr6 2.8. I have change the realy 109 to make run the fuelpump. Second, i have a red/yello cable on my vr6 engline loom, you need to put theme on the 12v igniton, to open fuel rail an sparks. Look if u have that also
Seems like a vats issue similar to an ls swap? Everything got switched, so the ecu thinks the car was stolen?
Good luck and beautiful build
Hi! Could be the immobilizer signal? Or the +15 to ecu... I greet you from Italy!
REOMVE THE Immobilizer THE Car Will Start or use the audi tt ignition with key n cluster if you don't want to remove the immobilizer
Is the power to the ecu being supplied on cranking? Or just on ignition live ?
Not sure on a vr6 but on my Mk1 when it did that i did the engine timing Crank, CAM, V-belt, distrubutor, not sure how the build is like that side #Lloyd from South africa
U know what every engine needs:
Spark
Petrol
Air
I would check these first👍
Great build👌
I want to do this swop on my mk1...I'm a qualified diesel mechanic, just need to find a good donor car...
Mashallah brother iam comenting my hands are still hurting everyday working learning doing the work with heart and soul like everyone should do
we alwasys have moments like this something not working inshallah u find and fix it soon can’t wait for the first startup is like first breath of a baby 🤲🏻👨🏻🔧👋
Transponder chip in the key use the audi 1
Are you supplying enough power to the ecu?
Heater valve which car does it come from?
It's a very good idea to install the part.
Mfg OCWX
I got it from S&P automotive
Try to access the ECU on a bench to make sure that there is no issue with it.
I think that’s the next step, just got to figure out how to do it
@@zaksgarage I would assume that you need to get 12Vs, grounds, CAN lines and maybe something else. Just the same things it gets when powered on and plugged in the OBD2 port. Good luck! Awesome build
Did the donor car have an immobiliser? If so you will need the receiver coil connected on the ignition barrel with the correct key to get it to disarm
Have you had the immobiliser turned off? Sounds like no spark
Is the ⛽ getting to the engine .
As much as we want to do everything ourself, sometimes we need some help... call in a auto elec and go from there
Black/white wire on the left on the ECU wires from car doesn't have a live or cranking is dropping the voltage too much.
Coded key , need to remove that in ecu
What gearbox are you using
02J gearbox
Neutralize the computer box
would u mind sharing ur diagrams if possible
No spark.