Dominion 2L: (DoMyOwn) shrsl.com/33aqg (Amazon) amzn.to/3CfPiOa Safari 20SG: (DoMyOwn) shrsl.com/33aqm (Amazon) amzn.to/3MfTZfo Check out the DoMyOwn link above for lowest price! Small bottle is all you need to tree 2 large ash like shown in video. Buy in bulk to save even more!
Ignore the post below. Bump you are absolutely right. Too long since I took geometry. Circumference equals pi times the diameter or pi time 2 times the radius. Area of a circle equals pi times radius squared. Thanks for this video. Hope I can save my ash tree
Our city had a "special rate" with a local arborist for treating ash trees. I contracted them to treat our three ash trees (8.5, 9 and 13.5 DBH) and the cost went from $190 the first time to $290 the second time, two years later. Yikes! I think I'll do my own treatment from now on. Thanks for the vid!
I am currently treating 3 Ash tress in my backyard. It is suggested to cut any dead limbs from the tree and burn them. My question is: Should the epicormic shoots be trimmed off as well? Thanks
I got professional treatment last year and told it would be good for 2 years. Can I use this method this year even though it’s with the 2 year period of my last treatment? Thanks!
Thanks again for the video. Another question please. Can/should the trees be treated more than once in a year? I'm worried since I have had a couple trees die. My trees are coming to life this year I'm just worried. It is easy to do and doesn't cost that much so if I should do it twice a year I will. Thoughts? Thank You.
Thank you so much for this video. I'm too late for Dominion treatment (end of June), but will use the Safari for quicker uptake. ***Can you please tell me how to mix the Safari for my Ash tree soil drench? (it is 36" at 54", final is 12") Thank you!!
Thanks for the video. I have a 24 inch diameter tree that does not appear to be infested. I calculated 10 oz of dominion to 5 gallons for the treatment. It's late July and you mentioned 4-6 weeks for uptake. I know the safari is faster, but also way more expensive. If the options are 1) doing nothing or 2) doing dominion now, late July, would you recommend doing it now instead of waiting until the fall? Or doing both now and the fall. Or, just now. I guess the issue is that the leaves are already sprouted so treating now would have little effect. Or maybe it would work, with the gamble of slower uptake, since this is for a borer, not a leaf eater. Thanks again.
Yeah, early to mid spring or mid fall are best. At this point in summer I would wait till mid fall. I have been using Dominion in both early spring and fall. www.emeraldashborer.info/documents/Multistate_EAB_Insecticide_Fact_Sheet.pdf
You recommend early to mid spring for treatment can I treat in the fall? I don't know the movement of the borer. I assume they will infest trees anytime except maybe winter where it gets cold.
i have dogs and a mandarin tree right next to my ash tree. will dinotefuran harm my dogs or my fruit trees. i have been battling whooly aphids that covered my whole tree an dropped sticky stuff all over me when i went outside but looks like this would take care of both. if i can use it
@@thebumpchannel I used this treatment on my ash tree and praise God it stopped them from taking over my tree this year and I can walk outside with out having to wash my hair when i come back in. It also helped my mandarin tree that obviously had a disease bc it produced fruit without discoloration an tough skins on my fruit. Thank you so much
Pretty late to the party here. It's currently June 20th. Would it be technically too late to Soil Drench some ash trees now with Safari? Or potentially wait until fall? Thanks!
Per: www.emeraldashborer.info/documents/Multistate_EAB_Insecticide_Fact_Sheet.pdf "Multi-year studies have shown that if more than 50 to 60% of the canopy has been killed by EAB, or if the canopy appears to be thin and is carrying less than half as much foliage as it should, it is probably too late to save the tree."
50%-60% canopy death and the tree would look pretty sorry, and you wouldn't be inclined to save it I suspect by looking at it. I would have put mine at between 10%-15% and local arborist agreed. Affected limbs never really come back but treatment stops it from getting worse and dyeing completely.
I treated a large ash tree with imidacloprid for many years. My ash tree looks fine, the neighbors untreated ash tree across the street died. I treated my tree by pouring on top the grass the first few years. After that I would make a hole in the sod every foot or so around the trunk and pour the solution in, and then replace the sod. Keeps critters from getting exposed to the insecticide, and allows more chemical to reach the roots rather than bonding with organic material.
That's awesome! Yeah the initially affected limb death on mine has mostly all fallen away and my tree canopy is close to 100% healthy and full of leaves. Same thing with the neighbors, the trees continue to decline up end up being removed if untreated.
Can I use the basal bark spray method with Dominion? I am not interested in the drench method (well water) and I don't want to spend $50-$75 per year per Tree with Dinotefuran / Zylam,Safari.
@@thebumpchannel I just bought Tree Injectors :: Dominion 2L Page 34 Basal System: TREES 0.1 to 0.4 fl. oz. (3 to 12 mL) per inch of trunk diameter D.B.H. Space injection holes evenly around the base of the tree trunk no more than 6 to 12 inches out from the base. Each bottle can treat 80 inch of trunk ! Thank You !
I have two large ash trees in my yard. I just found out there's emerald ash borer near a neighboring town. Does 1.5-2.0 fl. Oz. Per inch of trunk diameter sound right for safari 20sg? I think it's to late in the year to use the other stuff.
Since your dosage rate is circumference / pi * 0.4 (in ounces) you can simplify the math. 0.4 / pi = .1273, and 1/ .1273 = 7.85, so if you just divide the circumference (CBH) by eight, that gives you a very close approximation to the number of ounces to apply to the tree.
@@thebumpchannel NP. Thanks for posting the video - we have 12 ash trees in the front yard, and after the beginnings of an infestation, it looks like 11 of them will thrive, not sure about the last one, though. Your post saved us a lot of money, in either expensive treatments or tree removal and replanting. I hope my post helps pay you back a little.
Mine showed approximately 20% canopy death. Vast majority of the dead limbs have since rotted away, and now there is virtually no canopy death. Started treating in fall as well as spring a couple years back.
I thought my ash trees were starting to die because of the 2 bad winters we had in Texas. However, I discovered some larvae yesterday that shows to be emerald ash bore larvae. I plan to try your method to see if I can save my trees; thanks for the excellent video & information. My question is: Do the borers only invade ash trees, or will they also invade other trees? (My other trees are oak trees, & I recently lost one of them. It had holes similar to the ones the ash borer makes, but I didn’t know what caused them at the time).
Thx for the comment and good luck. I think it is rare for them to affect other trees. Likely a different boring insect. blog.davey.com/2020/02/emerald-ash-borer-facts-what-does-the-emerald-ash-borer-eat/#:~:text=Does%20the%20emerald%20ash%20borer%20affect%20other%20trees%3F,pests%20eat%20ash%20tree%20leaves.
yea...didnt know this was a thing till only a few weeks ago when we lost one of are large trees to ash borer. Split right down the middle. Wish I knew this a few years ago, feel like I could've saved the tree
Yeah we were lucky. When we bought our house over a decade ago, a good friend's dad quickly pointed that we had ash trees and should be treating them. Neighbor's tree two doors down died out completely along with countless in the area. A local wildlife preserve just down the road cut down what looked to be 50+ ash trees around their hiking trails. Some of the damage footage in my video is from those trees. Most were still alive but were downed due to heavy infestation. I assume it was done to prevent injury to those that hike along the preserve with limbs dropping. It is a very popular spot for hiking and has heavy daily traffic all hours of the day.
Do you know if these treatments work on all wood boring beetles? I have a Black Walnut tree that has some type of wood boring beetle, but not sure what type. The holes are a good bit smaller than ones that I've seen for the Ash Borer. Thank you.
Check labels for both in video description. Many borers are specifically called out but it also says "such as, but not limited to"... with it being a systemic insecticide I would expect to be effective for most borers. Good luck and thx for watching!
This may be Walnut Twig Beetle, which vectors the Thousand Cankers pathogen and is fatal to walnuts. Consult a qualified local arborist or Cooperative Extension agent for diagnosis. Can also check TCD map to see if your area is affected.
Is there any advantage to treating with both? One in early spring followed by the other 3-4 weeks later. I've been treating my Summit Ash for 3 years now with Imidacloprid, and it still looks great. I live next to a park that has lost dozens of Ash trees. Thanks for the video.
I started treating twice a year with imidacloprid. Spring and Fall. Mainly because its much cheaper. Would use safari for first treatment if missed early spring for first treatment.
Very helpful video, thank you! Question, please: should the treatment be just once a year? I treated my two ash trees in early Spring; should I re-treat them now?
$40 bottle will treat 2 very large trees like shown in the video. Much cheaper than $1,500 or more per tree to have one cut and stump ground in a residential setting. Probably not a good option to save an entire forest of ash trees, but for a residential lot in a neighborhood setting the economics totally make sense for just a few trees...not to mention the potential damage dead trees could cause.
Wish I saw this video before I purchased Bonide Annual Tree and Shrub Insect control. It is now June, and it doesn't sound like I can use the Dominion 2L now. I noticed this Dinotefuran in Safari is very expensive. Will I need a bottle this big for a tree with a diameter of 48 inches?
Bonide Annual Tree and Shrub Insect control appears to be a watered down version of imidacloprid (1.3% vs 21.4%). So won't be nearly as economical. Imidacloprid and other insecticides can be used in fall but not nearly as effective, can read up on this here. www.emeraldashborer.info/documents/Multistate_EAB_Insecticide_Fact_Sheet.pdf Dinotefuran is more expensive but still likely cheaper than hiring a pro. I used it my first year for the same reason, I missed the early spring window. I don't recall the dosage off the top of my head. I have put a link to Safari label in description you will need to refer to label guidance there for Safari.
It's the cheapest, proven to be effective, and easiest for average homeowner to treat with, which is why it's the most popular. Which chemical do you recommend?
One might think that, but research shows that basal drenching is more effective and all insecticide guidance will direct to that as well. Additionally it helps to prevent unintended plants from contact as well (think flowering shrubs where pollinators could be affected by insecticide). www.canr.msu.edu/news/questions_and_answers_about_the_homeowner_products_for_protecting_individua
@@mtsecological3796 Injection methods assure that 100% of the insecticide is taken up by the vascular system of the trees. Trouble with any drench approach is it can wash away, not reach the feeder roots, and essentially the majority of the active ingredients never make it into the tree, Probably the best method for small trees for the novice, but for my 20 - 30 inch ash trees I have gone with injection for 12 years.
Ash trees produce a lot of leaves. If you remove all the leaves from the base of ash trees, you will be depleting all the nutrients that the trees obtain from the soil. Year after year the trees will get weaker and weaker and are subject to all sorts of diseases. And the soil in the entire area will become poorer and poorer. There is a trade off between a beautiful lawn and tree health.
Dominion 2L: (DoMyOwn) shrsl.com/33aqg (Amazon) amzn.to/3CfPiOa
Safari 20SG: (DoMyOwn) shrsl.com/33aqm (Amazon) amzn.to/3MfTZfo
Check out the DoMyOwn link above for lowest price! Small bottle is all you need to tree 2 large ash like shown in video. Buy in bulk to save even more!
Thank you for this! I just found out this bug killed my two lilac trees almost a month after I moved in my house :(
That is rough. It's a sad thing to come home to.
Ignore the post below. Bump you are absolutely right. Too long since I took geometry. Circumference equals pi times the diameter or pi time 2 times the radius. Area of a circle equals pi times radius squared. Thanks for this video. Hope I can save my ash tree
Good luck with the treatment!
Will these chemicals harm the critters who eat the bugs that are killed from this treatment?
Not sure. Refer to product label.
great stuff. I admit I started treating a little too late in the years....but still doing great with ridding the damage of these devil pests.
Glad to hear it! My trees are still doing good as well.
Thank you! Looked all over online and couldn't find a good solution until this video.
Glad it helped! Appreciate the comment! Doing mine again this week.
Nicely done. Excellent!
Thank you kindly! Thx for watching and thanks for the comment! Doing mine in a couple weeks!
Big thanks from a professional arborist who had protected dozens of similar trees utilizing same drenching method correctly shared in video.
Thx for watching and I appreciate the comment. Love my big trees hope they outlast me!
Our city had a "special rate" with a local arborist for treating ash trees. I contracted them to treat our three ash trees (8.5, 9 and 13.5 DBH) and the cost went from $190 the first time to $290 the second time, two years later. Yikes! I think I'll do my own treatment from now on. Thanks for the vid!
No problem! Good luck!
I am currently treating 3 Ash tress in my backyard. It is suggested to cut any dead limbs from the tree and burn them. My question is: Should the epicormic shoots be trimmed off as well? Thanks
Not sure it would help fight the infestation necessarily, but might trim for aesthetics.
I got professional treatment last year and told it would be good for 2 years. Can I use this method this year even though it’s with the 2 year period of my last treatment? Thanks!
Up to you. I treat mine in both spring and fall. Any idea what they treated with?
Thanks again for the video. Another question please. Can/should the trees be treated more than once in a year? I'm worried since I have had a couple trees die. My trees are coming to life this year I'm just worried. It is easy to do and doesn't cost that much so if I should do it twice a year I will. Thoughts? Thank You.
Yeah I started treating in spring and fall both a few years back. Doing mine today.
Thank you so much for this video. I'm too late for Dominion treatment (end of June), but will use the Safari for quicker uptake.
***Can you please tell me how to mix the Safari for my Ash tree soil drench? (it is 36" at 54", final is 12")
Thank you!!
Just refer to the product label for mixing instructions
Thanks for the video. I have a 24 inch diameter tree that does not appear to be infested. I calculated 10 oz of dominion to 5 gallons for the treatment. It's late July and you mentioned 4-6 weeks for uptake. I know the safari is faster, but also way more expensive. If the options are 1) doing nothing or 2) doing dominion now, late July, would you recommend doing it now instead of waiting until the fall? Or doing both now and the fall. Or, just now. I guess the issue is that the leaves are already sprouted so treating now would have little effect. Or maybe it would work, with the gamble of slower uptake, since this is for a borer, not a leaf eater. Thanks again.
Yeah, early to mid spring or mid fall are best. At this point in summer I would wait till mid fall. I have been using Dominion in both early spring and fall.
www.emeraldashborer.info/documents/Multistate_EAB_Insecticide_Fact_Sheet.pdf
You recommend early to mid spring for treatment can I treat in the fall? I don't know the movement of the borer. I assume they will infest trees anytime except maybe winter where it gets cold.
Spring is best. Right now in fall is second best time to treat.
i have dogs and a mandarin tree right next to my ash tree. will dinotefuran harm my dogs or my fruit trees. i have been battling whooly aphids that covered my whole tree an dropped sticky stuff all over me when i went outside but looks like this would take care of both. if i can use it
I would refer to the product label. there is a link in the video description.
@@thebumpchannel I used this treatment on my ash tree and praise God it stopped them from taking over my tree this year and I can walk outside with out having to wash my hair when i come back in. It also helped my mandarin tree that obviously had a disease bc it produced fruit without discoloration an tough skins on my fruit. Thank you so much
@@gwenburkhardt that's great to here. Thx for the follow-up!
Is treatment similar for Oak borers? Some of these trees also have emeral borers
Treatment would be the same as it is a systemic insecticide
Way to go bro! I’ve been doing the same and haven’t had any issues.
Right on! Thanks for watching!
Where can I find these products
Links are in the video description!
Many thanks Bump.
I have one 2 foot diameter Ash that is still leafing well.
I will try to save it with your method of treatment.
Thx for the comment and thx for watching! Good luck with the tree!
Is treating with Safari in August a waste of time? Want to do something to save tree but I understand fall and spring are the right time
Yeah fall and spring are best. At this point in summer I would wait till fall late Sept.
Pretty late to the party here. It's currently June 20th. Would it be technically too late to Soil Drench some ash trees now with Safari? Or potentially wait until fall? Thanks!
I would give it a treatment with Safari now and Dominion in fall. I have been using Dominion in both early spring and fall.
What if there are other plants next to the ash tree, will the treatment destroy the other plants?
I would refer to chemical label to be safe. I am not totally sure, but I would assume it is safe for most plants.
How do you know if the Ash Tree has gone too far to be treated?
My e-mail - solarjpl@aol.com
Per: www.emeraldashborer.info/documents/Multistate_EAB_Insecticide_Fact_Sheet.pdf
"Multi-year studies have shown that if more than 50 to 60% of the canopy has been killed by EAB, or if the canopy appears to be thin and is carrying less than half as much foliage as it should, it is probably too late to save the tree."
50%-60% canopy death and the tree would look pretty sorry, and you wouldn't be inclined to save it I suspect by looking at it. I would have put mine at between 10%-15% and local arborist agreed. Affected limbs never really come back but treatment stops it from getting worse and dyeing completely.
I treated a large ash tree with imidacloprid for many years. My ash tree looks fine, the neighbors untreated ash tree across the street died. I treated my tree by pouring on top the grass the first few years. After that I would make a hole in the sod every foot or so around the trunk and pour the solution in, and then replace the sod. Keeps critters from getting exposed to the insecticide, and allows more chemical to reach the roots rather than bonding with organic material.
That's awesome! Yeah the initially affected limb death on mine has mostly all fallen away and my tree canopy is close to 100% healthy and full of leaves. Same thing with the neighbors, the trees continue to decline up end up being removed if untreated.
Can I use the basal bark spray method with Dominion? I am not interested in the drench method (well water) and I don't want to spend $50-$75 per year per Tree with Dinotefuran / Zylam,Safari.
I would read through some of the resources in the video description
@@thebumpchannel I just bought Tree Injectors :: Dominion 2L Page 34 Basal System: TREES 0.1 to 0.4 fl. oz. (3 to 12 mL) per inch of trunk diameter D.B.H. Space injection holes evenly around the base of the tree trunk no more than 6 to 12 inches out from the base. Each bottle can treat 80 inch of trunk ! Thank You !
think id run my aerator around the trees or open up the soil in spots with a good spade
Couldn't hurt.
I have two large ash trees in my yard. I just found out there's emerald ash borer near a neighboring town. Does 1.5-2.0 fl. Oz. Per inch of trunk diameter sound right for safari 20sg? I think it's to late in the year to use the other stuff.
Refer to safari label in video description. Can also treat in the fall.
Since your dosage rate is circumference / pi * 0.4 (in ounces) you can simplify the math. 0.4 / pi = .1273, and 1/ .1273 = 7.85, so if you just divide the circumference (CBH) by eight, that gives you a very close approximation to the number of ounces to apply to the tree.
Thx for sharing and thx for the comment!
@@thebumpchannel NP. Thanks for posting the video - we have 12 ash trees in the front yard, and after the beginnings of an infestation, it looks like 11 of them will thrive, not sure about the last one, though. Your post saved us a lot of money, in either expensive treatments or tree removal and replanting. I hope my post helps pay you back a little.
@@martinmelhus7324 ordering through the link's in description or pinned comment helps. Hope you are able to save them. Thx for sharing!
Thanks for the video. My local tree service wants over 450.00 to treatment my tree every 2 years! Are your trees still doing well?
They are still doing great. Been treating mine for 12 years now myself.
should you wet the bark with Dominion 2l also or just drench the root system?
There is another treatment method that involves spraying the trunk but the method and dosage covered in this video are for the "soil drench" method.
Do it yourself- $43 and Amazon’s $75
Second chemical is way over $100
2024
Amazon link is 1 gallon, vs 1 quart. Also important to check % active ingredient when making comparisons.
Were your Ash trees showing signs of EAB damage or was this used as a preventive method?
Mine showed approximately 20% canopy death. Vast majority of the dead limbs have since rotted away, and now there is virtually no canopy death.
Started treating in fall as well as spring a couple years back.
I thought my ash trees were starting to die because of the 2 bad winters we had in Texas. However, I discovered some larvae yesterday that shows to be emerald ash bore larvae. I plan to try your method to see if I can save my trees; thanks for the excellent video & information. My question is: Do the borers only invade ash trees, or will they also invade other trees? (My other trees are oak trees, & I recently lost one of them. It had holes similar to the ones the ash borer makes, but I didn’t know what caused them at the time).
Thx for the comment and good luck. I think it is rare for them to affect other trees. Likely a different boring insect.
blog.davey.com/2020/02/emerald-ash-borer-facts-what-does-the-emerald-ash-borer-eat/#:~:text=Does%20the%20emerald%20ash%20borer%20affect%20other%20trees%3F,pests%20eat%20ash%20tree%20leaves.
Once your tree is affected that much, it’s not going to make it and is already too late.
@@randycollens2681 studies show if canopy death is 50% or more the tree is not likely to survive with treatment.
yea...didnt know this was a thing till only a few weeks ago when we lost one of are large trees to ash borer. Split right down the middle. Wish I knew this a few years ago, feel like I could've saved the tree
Yeah we were lucky. When we bought our house over a decade ago, a good friend's dad quickly pointed that we had ash trees and should be treating them. Neighbor's tree two doors down died out completely along with countless in the area.
A local wildlife preserve just down the road cut down what looked to be 50+ ash trees around their hiking trails. Some of the damage footage in my video is from those trees. Most were still alive but were downed due to heavy infestation. I assume it was done to prevent injury to those that hike along the preserve with limbs dropping. It is a very popular spot for hiking and has heavy daily traffic all hours of the day.
Sorry you didn't find my video sooner...
Do you know if these treatments work on all wood boring beetles? I have a Black Walnut tree that has some type of wood boring beetle, but not sure what type. The holes are a good bit smaller than ones that I've seen for the Ash Borer. Thank you.
Check labels for both in video description. Many borers are specifically called out but it also says "such as, but not limited to"... with it being a systemic insecticide I would expect to be effective for most borers.
Good luck and thx for watching!
This may be Walnut Twig Beetle, which vectors the Thousand Cankers pathogen and is fatal to walnuts. Consult a qualified local arborist or Cooperative Extension agent for diagnosis. Can also check TCD map to see if your area is affected.
Is there any advantage to treating with both?
One in early spring followed by the other 3-4 weeks later.
I've been treating my Summit Ash for 3 years now with Imidacloprid, and it still looks great. I live next to a park that has lost dozens of Ash trees.
Thanks for the video.
I started treating twice a year with imidacloprid. Spring and Fall. Mainly because its much cheaper. Would use safari for first treatment if missed early spring for first treatment.
Very helpful video, thank you! Question, please: should the treatment be just once a year? I treated my two ash trees in early Spring; should I re-treat them now?
I started treating mine in both Spring and Fall
Great video thanks. Subscribed. Btw, do you have another link/description for Dominion 2l as the one above is dead. Tia
shrsl.com/33aqg
Most sellers on Amazon are currently out of stock...wonder if my video has something to do with it. Hope I can buy some for myself next spring, lol
Thx for subscribing, BTW. Much appreciated!
Chemicals cost way way to much 40$ a bottle that does 8 inch across the trunk it'll take 8 bottles I have 10 acres of trees
$40 bottle will treat 2 very large trees like shown in the video. Much cheaper than $1,500 or more per tree to have one cut and stump ground in a residential setting. Probably not a good option to save an entire forest of ash trees, but for a residential lot in a neighborhood setting the economics totally make sense for just a few trees...not to mention the potential damage dead trees could cause.
Wish I saw this video before I purchased Bonide Annual Tree and Shrub Insect control. It is now June, and it doesn't sound like I can use the Dominion 2L now. I noticed this Dinotefuran in Safari is very expensive. Will I need a bottle this big for a tree with a diameter of 48 inches?
Bonide Annual Tree and Shrub Insect control appears to be a watered down version of imidacloprid (1.3% vs 21.4%). So won't be nearly as economical. Imidacloprid and other insecticides can be used in fall but not nearly as effective, can read up on this here.
www.emeraldashborer.info/documents/Multistate_EAB_Insecticide_Fact_Sheet.pdf
Dinotefuran is more expensive but still likely cheaper than hiring a pro. I used it my first year for the same reason, I missed the early spring window. I don't recall the dosage off the top of my head. I have put a link to Safari label in description you will need to refer to label guidance there for Safari.
This is great information! Thanks for the reply.
Imidacloprid is not the most effective chemical for this.
It's the cheapest, proven to be effective, and easiest for average homeowner to treat with, which is why it's the most popular. Which chemical do you recommend?
@@thebumpchannel tree-age
on larger trees the soil drench should be at the trees drip line. At the base of the tree there are no feeder roots to quickly absorb the insecticide.
One might think that, but research shows that basal drenching is more effective and all insecticide guidance will direct to that as well. Additionally it helps to prevent unintended plants from contact as well (think flowering shrubs where pollinators could be affected by insecticide).
www.canr.msu.edu/news/questions_and_answers_about_the_homeowner_products_for_protecting_individua
@@mtsecological3796 Injection methods assure that 100% of the insecticide is taken up by the vascular system of the trees. Trouble with any drench approach is it can wash away, not reach the feeder roots, and essentially the majority of the active ingredients never make it into the tree, Probably the best method for small trees for the novice, but for my 20 - 30 inch ash trees I have gone with injection for 12 years.
Ash trees produce a lot of leaves. If you remove all the leaves from the base of ash trees, you will be depleting all the nutrients that the trees obtain from the soil. Year after year the trees will get weaker and weaker and are subject to all sorts of diseases. And the soil in the entire area will become poorer and poorer. There is a trade off between a beautiful lawn and tree health.
We mulch our leaves back into the lawn.
You didn’t understand the assignment…