I started off a couple years ago as a hobby welder and now as a Civil engineering student I’m more into welding. I love watching all these pipe videos because of seeing the skill of all the people who we trust to be in charge of the welding. I am now the lead welder and fabrication coordinator for my college’s steel bridge fabricating team. I would love to be able to x-ray those welds
Cold wire usually will shoot if it’s not too bad as long as it’s sticking straight out of the bead. If I have a piece I feel won’t shoot I’ll fire up on the spot that it’s at while looking through the gap and heat it up till it drops into the puddle
@@mddenis1 usually don’t have to grind it. If it’s being extra stubborn I’ll grind into it but not much. You only want to heat it enough to suck the cold wire up if you get carried away you can suck the bead back
Great video David! Probably one of my favorite guys to watch in these tutorials and seems like a real down to earth and humble welder which in turn are the best to learn from! Keep this kind of content coming!
@@TheHeavensHell06 I don't really know what that means dude, but if you're saying it's because I'm evil too, well all I can say is who isn't without sin.
10:06 hey guys names Austin Hammond im a specialty welder in the nukes globally running alot of orbitals and robot tig heads and ive trained alot of new hands to do the same for the last 15 years. i got another tip to fix excessive pen id like to share. if you get a cut wheel and cut directly in the middle of your knot area following the joint obviously , taking out as much metal as you think you excessively placed without going all the way through the root you can just wash it over with the same settings and as long as u get it wet all the way through it will suck itself back as the puddle will naturally want to return to spherical. i know this because i will make weld repairs with the robot head and it cant get fancy. just run it over like youre rooting it wire at the ready if u need it. very important you leave as much meat on the bevel walls from original weld as possible or it will get wide and be obvious. it will literally just vacuum it up
Llevo 4 días tratando de aprender con tig. Estoy que tiro la toalla, se me duerme la mano hasta el punto que no avanzo con la copa... Eres muy bueno en tu trabajo, muchas gracias por compartir esos tips para solucionar tantos problemas que pueden pasar, saludos.
Dave, you and Hjalmar have great root repair videos. Travis Field does excellent repair videos as well. You all do. I tried "sucking" back excessive penetration at 12 o'clock on carbon pipe while practicing, wasnt successful. Pretty much convinced you'd have to dig it all out and re prep the repair area. How would you do this with 6010? I find repairs around 3-6-9 o'clock easier to do with excess pen because gravity works with you. As far as recapping without filler wire. I believe ASME sec 9 won't allow you to do that type of repair without filler metal because it is an "essential" variable. Also even if you were qualified to do this you would have to follow the contractor/shop WPS which probably wouldn't allow this type of repair. Thanks for your help, keep up the good work.
Knowing to what extent doing the repair could affect the heat affected zone is important. Good video on using torch to draw filler material and tie welds. Other than acetylene torch weldIng I have next to experience with Tig. I can braze pretty good but nearly always over heat the weld area with acetylene torch. I’m nearly 66, the weld, machine shop I worked at during high school and as an apprentice iron worker before entering the Army in 74 not long after graduating high school did a lot of odd welding jobs. Boss man did all the Tig, SS, Alum, carbon steel. I did the prep and cleanup though very few of his welds needed any cleanup post weld. Got to Learn a bit of electrode welding including Texas Tig doing the shit jobs that came in, rusted or rotted out things. Did some what was called micro-wire(Mig/Mag) back then. I was better with mice-wire than the two older welders as they had difficulty stopping themselves from wanting to use the torch head yo feed the electrode into the weld. Took them a while to learn to weld with it.
@@cirizawelding5076 had a spool come in that needed some rework (flange's not level to eachother and the company that made em didnt do the take-off calc correctly so run was too short) needed to chop off 2 socket welds , replace pipe and adjust flange so first socket came out easy after zipping into the root along the face of the socket, wacked it out, the second one, i thought i cut in the same depth but i guess i knicked too deep into the pipe past the root of the fillet, and when i gave it some wacks, the knick turned into a crack arouind the pipeand then broke off at the face leaving about a 1" section of pipe in the socket and i cant see any parting lines so maybe that side had no gap or excess pen? either way i just decided to hand it over to the machinist and have him lathe it out, stainless sure is a bitch lol, still new to the trade too so its all a learning experience for me
I have a problem I’ve been experiencing, I get porosity in my weld but it’s not visible until you grind into the root. I’d tack up the pipe n start my root on my tacks, my tacks would look fine from looking at it but the second I start my root it would start popping so id start grinding into the tack n there would be porosity in the tack. Does anyone know that happens?
@@cirizawelding5076 absolutely your person they got two years of welding under your belt you know what I'm talking about I work in a shipping yard sometimes we run 200 city of line to our welding boxes
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I started off a couple years ago as a hobby welder and now as a Civil engineering student I’m more into welding. I love watching all these pipe videos because of seeing the skill of all the people who we trust to be in charge of the welding. I am now the lead welder and fabrication coordinator for my college’s steel bridge fabricating team. I would love to be able to x-ray those welds
Phased array is where it is at now
full time stainless welder here and learned a few things. super rad!
The suck back technique on the excessive penetration was impressive I'll definitely have to remember it
Great video for ANYONE new to pipe tiggin.
Cold wire usually will shoot if it’s not too bad as long as it’s sticking straight out of the bead. If I have a piece I feel won’t shoot I’ll fire up on the spot that it’s at while looking through the gap and heat it up till it drops into the puddle
me also
But will you grind thin the spot before heating it?
@@mddenis1 usually don’t have to grind it. If it’s being extra stubborn I’ll grind into it but not much. You only want to heat it enough to suck the cold wire up if you get carried away you can suck the bead back
Great video David! Probably one of my favorite guys to watch in these tutorials and seems like a real down to earth and humble welder which in turn are the best to learn from! Keep this kind of content coming!
good ppl recognize good ppl....
@@TheHeavensHell06 Then why is it I'm always able to recognize evil people?
@@44_83 thats mean you in precautious mode.....
@@TheHeavensHell06 I don't really know what that means dude, but if you're saying it's because I'm evil too, well all I can say is who isn't without sin.
@@44_83 😂😂 okay. Juz live your life to the fullest bruh 😂😂
I just started a new tig welding manufacturing job and I've never tig welded before so these vids def help man thanks so much!
How's the job going
10:06 hey guys names Austin Hammond im a specialty welder in the nukes globally running alot of orbitals and robot tig heads and ive trained alot of new hands to do the same for the last 15 years. i got another tip to fix excessive pen id like to share.
if you get a cut wheel and cut directly in the middle of your knot area following the joint obviously , taking out as much metal as you think you excessively placed without going all the way through the root you can just wash it over with the same settings and as long as u get it wet all the way through it will suck itself back as the puddle will naturally want to return to spherical. i know this because i will make weld repairs with the robot head and it cant get fancy. just run it over like youre rooting it wire at the ready if u need it.
very important you leave as much meat on the bevel walls from original weld as possible or it will get wide and be obvious. it will literally just vacuum it up
Thanks for showing how to Fix a problem, nicking new edge lines with the Grinder is a great Idea, because you can see that behind the lens.
Llevo 4 días tratando de aprender con tig. Estoy que tiro la toalla, se me duerme la mano hasta el punto que no avanzo con la copa...
Eres muy bueno en tu trabajo, muchas gracias por compartir esos tips para solucionar tantos problemas que pueden pasar, saludos.
That porosity is a real pain in the neck. It really bugs when somebody steps on your hose on purpose. Nice repairs, nice video.
It is the worst I had a hose burn up and make a huge mess the other day
nice and easy cold wire fix when someones talking you through it, almost like the have x ray goggles
@ 9:35 that is next level skill, using suck back to your advantage and fixing the blob.
Very good video on repairing your welds .
Thank you so much for precious lesson. How you got rid of excessive penetration looks real magic to me, never tried it before
Thanx for the great video lessons .. This brings out a clear picture of welding .
Dave, you and Hjalmar have great root repair videos. Travis Field does excellent repair videos as well. You all do.
I tried "sucking" back excessive penetration at 12 o'clock on carbon pipe while practicing, wasnt successful. Pretty much convinced you'd have to dig it all out and re prep the repair area.
How would you do this with 6010?
I find repairs around 3-6-9 o'clock easier to do with excess pen because gravity works with you.
As far as recapping without filler wire. I believe ASME sec 9 won't allow you to do that type of repair without filler metal because it is an "essential" variable. Also even if you were qualified to do this you would have to follow the contractor/shop WPS which probably wouldn't allow this type of repair.
Thanks for your help, keep up the good work.
Thanks man... Best way to learn is on mistakes...
Very nice tutorial on a much needed subject, David. Well done! 👌💙👊
Are you invested in V-Ram manufacturing? They had a fatality in one shop 3 weeks ago
Good to hear from you, Bob, hope to see more of your teaching soon!
Alot of good stuff here. Any welder should learn this.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and great experience with repairs. That's was very helpful 🙂
This video will help me alot thank you so much to make videos like this one. ❤
Extremely useful information one of your best vids
Very good video, shared it with my coworkers
What about changes to the heat affected zone from re-doing your weld by adding extra heat several times?
If it's A106 or A53 it shouldn't be an issue.
Knowing to what extent doing the repair could affect the heat affected zone is important. Good video on using torch to draw filler material and tie welds. Other than acetylene torch weldIng I have next to experience with Tig. I can braze pretty good but nearly always over heat the weld area with acetylene torch. I’m nearly 66, the weld, machine shop I worked at during high school and as an apprentice iron worker before entering the Army in 74 not long after graduating high school did a lot of odd welding jobs. Boss man did all the Tig, SS, Alum, carbon steel. I did the prep and cleanup though very few of his welds needed any cleanup post weld. Got to Learn a bit of electrode welding including Texas Tig doing the shit jobs that came in, rusted or rotted out things. Did some what was called micro-wire(Mig/Mag) back then. I was better with mice-wire than the two older welders as they had difficulty stopping themselves from wanting to use the torch head yo feed the electrode into the weld. Took them a while to learn to weld with it.
helpful examples, thanks.
That man can weld!
Great video, keep em coming!
fixing socket welds next time? just had a pipe snap off in the socket on me and she ain't budging
How did that happen ?
@@cirizawelding5076 had a spool come in that needed some rework (flange's not level to eachother and the company that made em didnt do the take-off calc correctly so run was too short) needed to chop off 2 socket welds , replace pipe and adjust flange so first socket came out easy after zipping into the root along the face of the socket, wacked it out, the second one, i thought i cut in the same depth but i guess i knicked too deep into the pipe past the root of the fillet, and when i gave it some wacks, the knick turned into a crack arouind the pipeand then broke off at the face leaving about a 1" section of pipe in the socket and i cant see any parting lines so maybe that side had no gap or excess pen? either way i just decided to hand it over to the machinist and have him lathe it out, stainless sure is a bitch lol, still new to the trade too so its all a learning experience for me
Burr bit is your friend in that situation. I've done the exact same thing a couple times in the past
Thanks man!!
Excellent video thank you
What you think about adding stainless steel wire over porosity ?
It works well. Just not on a test or certified work.
Mind Blown 🤯
Great video very helpful
on the overpenetration------how deep do you grind 50%?-----how much do you turn up the amperage?
David the King!!!!
brilliant. thank you
really nice video good job yal
This is genius!!!!
Now you should do a video on how to avoid these mistakes. Best way to solve a problem is to avoid it in the first place
Heckuva welder. Nice work
Good work...
Nice sir good information ❤️🙏
very great..👍
You guys are awesome
Could yall do a video on 6010 3f uphill tjoint
Why would they not use stick or mig for pipe? It seems like it would be a lot easier.
Dam good video but why ya welding so cold
What a great idea for a video, thanks guys!
Esta con madre la tercera indicacion
Hell yeah representing chuko town 🤙
2:11 how can you show how to do a root repair if you never tied into your 6 o'clock tack in the beginning of this. And you dnt fix it
Hey guys im searchin a weldor job im from germany tig/stick welder im 21 is there any chancr to weld in america 😅?
2t or 4?
I wana see it all on 2"
whats ur gas set too
The Best instructionc film how I see in you tube😁
Much love from Canada
I have a problem I’ve been experiencing, I get porosity in my weld but it’s not visible until you grind into the root. I’d tack up the pipe n start my root on my tacks, my tacks would look fine from looking at it but the second I start my root it would start popping so id start grinding into the tack n there would be porosity in the tack. Does anyone know that happens?
Just a guess but dirty metal, oil, grease or gas flow to high.
Hell yeah chuco town on the map!!The man is a bad ass!
🔥
Nice job
That lil ass cold rod will still shoot man
Damn 80 amps wit 1/8?
Porosity sucks. It’s gets into the parent metal and everything
Утяжина на первом исправлении на мой взгляд
Name this channel " it might shoot? "
👌🏾
Always make sure you have enough gas this is what happens when you run out
Especially where it is noisy and you can’t hear it running out
@@cirizawelding5076 absolutely your person they got two years of welding under your belt you know what I'm talking about I work in a shipping yard sometimes we run 200 city of line to our welding boxes
Never got the chance to work at a 🚢 yard but I could imagine it gets very loud
A bad habit to get into can't weld like that in the field you can't see the inside of the pipe
It's hard to get a camera shot to show people in the field.
Not infuse
be careful with repairs for suck back. anything under 1/16 reinforcement will suck back and fail. at least in Canada it does.
1st
How is this tig welding thejr no feeding the filler rod it’s just lay wire
Well it ain't flux core.
Comment
Плохо, у финнов это не пройдет