I'm just starting out, and i COULDN'T FOR THE DAMN LIFE OF ME figure out why my welds were being porous and leaving the brown rust-like stain. You just showed me exactly what was wrong. Doubled my gas flow and I am lookin' SO much better. Thank you.
Bob - your instruction is perfectly on point and I love your sense of humor. I just started TIG and this video showed me 2 things I was doing wrong. Thanks.
this video was huge for me. your material is fantastic. in the last hour my weld quality went up an order of magnitude. i could not understand why i was experiencing that popping rust insanity! THANK YOU.
One of the deepest, funniest and most important videos on UA-cam. A great man addresses the fundamental issues of our time. Now that's some serious Gas Flow. - Dabs Wellington
Good settings for 15psi , 5sec post flow , 135 amps for 332 , my preferred stick out is about 1/4 - 3/8 " , one thing I do is never touch the grounded point , instead I will hold the tungsten well behind the point and use my thump nail to set the stick out . Thanks for giving tips and tricks for people starting out , OG from the peanut gallery .
Thank you for taking the time to show different settings to give a idea of what could occur if one thing changes dealing with gas flow and expose length!
Great tips. My nephew is always getting porosity in his welds when he borrows my everlast welder. Now instead of trying to explain to him myself I'll get him to watch your video.
And a final warning : If you follow all this advice and STILL have porosity - make sure you don't have a gas leak! For instance, if you have a hose that gets pulled to a sharp bend as it comes out of the connector, it could crack inside the jacket and leak more gas than it sends to the handpiece. Since this is all inside the jacket it is not visible. I neither confirm nor deny that this has happened to me....again! Thanks for the great video!
Oh, these were great examples. You covered every possibility. I’m always trying to explain this to people, but if I don’t have a welder there, they don’t really get it. I’d like to save this video to show people. Keep it on my ipad. I hope that’s ok.
Robert, I had a interesting experience as a novice TIG welder (4 months) and I thought for a new title for a video: Trouble shooting welding problems etc. and their solutions. Perhaps not minor picky problems but dramatic problems.... like a experience I had. I have a power tig 185 by everlast and it works just fine ; I've been concentrating on stainless steel 18 and 16 gauge. I started getting board with that and even worked with back purging with much success. I thought it was a good time to start learning AC aluminum welding. Watched a few YT vids and all went very well! (1/8 " 2x3 coupons and some inside and outside corners). That was a Thursday evening, and on Friday morning I sat down for some more practice.... I changed a tank of gas 80 size and...... what the hell, it would not even start a bead! Now as a beginner, I'm not thinking "bad gas" or mislabeled gas, but that was precisely what I had. We think it was mislabeled 25/75 Argon labeled as 100% argon! You can imagine what happened when trying to weld aluminum ; also, I did notice also that my colorful SS welds were now grey when I attempted them. In short, it would not weld Aluminum however! I'm thinking welder on the AC side, or perhaps..... I don't know what could have changed so suddenly? It was "all in the gas" . I just thought that other YT'ers and beginner welders would like to know that this DOES happen.
Yesterday I was doing some stick welding with my AHP Alphatig 200X. Set to DC, amps to about 80, stick mode etc. Couldn't get a weld going. Just little blobs and hard to start an arc. Reversed polarity and tried AC. Still bad. Then I noticed I forgot to disconnect the foot pedal. Duh! Love your videos! Thanks for all the great information!
Just learning to tig and noticed the same stuff going on as in your video. I had no idea it was the gas coverage that was causing my problems. Thanks for the video.
I have a question: My gas supplier asked if I wanted a 99.999% argon, or 99.996% argon. I'm not in the US. Caught me completely off guard. He couldn't give me an answer as to the practical difference between the two, and referred me to a welding shop. That other shop guy told me that with the 99.999% I will get a nicer gas cone. I ordered the 99.999% and paid x2 the price... I never saw a % percentage on the American argon even mentioned in any of the videos. What would you get?? I don't even know if the standard in the US is the lower or the higher cleaner argon. So my questions (sorry for getting long here). 1) What is the % of the Argon in the US that you are using. And 2) Which grade of Argon would you use, or suggest me to use. THANKS!!! This is a fantastic video.
Nice video. Whats funny is that with a gas lens and #7 cup you could probably stick ur tungsten out an inch and a half and still get a decent weld. Another reason why i love gas lenses. Furick #8 for the win!
I've seen loads of issues in regards to porosity & unfortunately the company I used to work for just turned a blind eye.. I was a Q/C technician & for weeks rejected components daily due to porosity. the company happily shipped items to the USA it was then found via goods inwards in the USA & a cost of shy $40K was made to correct such work. to this day the company continue shipping poor standards of product welded with missing welds, poor overlaps & porosity beyond words. the fabricators I used to work with simply didn't care, the company didn't care. as shown yes poor gas coverage is a main issue. overall anyone welding please take note of this video as it really does highlight the issue & cause of the problems
Hi Bob, Great tutorial young man! So am I right to say the post flow protects the weld, the surrounding area of the weld and the tungsten from oxidization from the atmosphere in the critical few cooling seconds as the weld freezes and the tungsten cools.
It's all about the gas flow! LOL. Excellent comparison of what the different settings will do. Would be great to see the same type of content with MIG and stick. amps too high, amps too low. wire feed too fast, wire feed too slow. well played Bob.
Hey, Bob. Any tips for someone with a depth perception handicap? I'm teaching myself (with your help. Thank you) but I'm blind on my left side which makes it challenging to maintain arc length. Thanks for everything!
If you have a problem area on carbon steel where porosity is bubbling up and can't get a grinder on it steel use a dab of 300 series stainless and watch the porosity disappear. Old trick.
A rookie question. Does the long cups help minimize the heat build up in the torch, Started my tig work with just the stubby lenses. And also, what is a good CFH setting for a windy truck service shop with 8 bay doors open to SoFlo winds. Thanks Weld.com and Guys.
@@thisdj83, been running 20. Fabricated a frame around the steel table and closed it in with moving wraps ( double layer over foam) and the wind still gets around it. And the thought just crossed my mind to add extendable tubes to hang more wraps.
The only time(s) i have used 30-35cfh of argon was welding outside (stainless pipe) when it was windy lg gaslense using a #8 or #7 cup, and to anyone that has or wants to learn tig pipe expeshaly stainless or other exotic metals scratch start will always leave a dark burnt area at the end of your weld where you snap out, you will never be fast enough to keep the shielding on the hot metal
God!!! I'm dying 😂😂😂love the dude, he don't give a sh*t . He's so done with everything lol and tired, at least he looks like . " cam guys kinda verbally sensitive these days ..😒🙄 " 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have an AHP 201xd unit. It came with a faulty gas solenoid that i had to learn how to replace on the fly. It was a learning experience and Nick at tech says that can happen. However I want yall to know he did not know where to find a new inner hose clamps. He guessed local stores but none had the right ones. ANYHOW i found out that you can (CAREFULLY) remove and reuse the factory clamp.
not that my garage band welding needs it, but now I want to go tinker a bit with post flow. on steel I unknowingly cranked it down....clearly a rookie mistake.
If you're debating on gas flow rates, compute the amount of gas that comes out of the torch, and the size of the weld you're doing. Look at 10 CFH, gas lens, #8 cup. ---10 CFH, converts to 4.8 cubic inches per second. ---- A #8 cup is 1/2" in diameter, so in one second, that cup can make a 24" long stream of argon that's the size of the cup, or a 1.625" sized box can get filled. --- If the inner third of that 1.6" box is perfectly clean, you can make a 1/2" wide bead that's clean, and then the edges will discolor because your argon got mixed with the air. --- If Argon gets heated to 200C, it's less dense than air, so it has to shoot out of the cup fast enough to beat the fact that it will want to float, while also trying to hug the item being welded. --- All of that theory exists so we can at least have a standing chance of predicting what we're trying to accomplish. At the end of the day, practice and test your procedure!
Im having issues welding low carbon tubes. My gas flow is set to 15-20cfh and tungsten length is good. My welds go great for a bit but bubble up and pop. Is this likely attributed to failure to purge the inside of the tube? Im guessing impurities are getting sucked into the weld from the back but im rookie and dont know for sure
I have a question, hope you could assist. I bought some 309L stainless filler rods for TIG. I intend using them instead of mild steel rods for mild steel welding. This way my weld bead is stainless and corrosion resistant, even if the surrounding metal is mild steel. Do you see any problem with this?
Open high pressure cylinders all the way? May be ok with shielding gasses, but in college, was taught to only open fuel gas or oxygen (which are high pressure arent they) only half a turn incase it needs to be closed in an emergency.
That is true for Fuel gas. like acetylene is relatively low pressure (250psig). oxy and shielding gas cylinders are around 2200psig and above and usually have a valve that needs to be all the way out in order to seat and seal properly.
Drag instead of push. 30-40 amps per mill thickness, then just set your wire speed to suit. Thats my limited experience with them. I dont think i have seen Bob use one but i bet he is good with gasless as he is with everything else. Biggest mistake would be obviously pushing into your weld i think. But also too much or little wire speed. Amps..... Subjective i think.
recently at work ive been able to use a new miller dynasty 400 id like to ask what are your ideas on arc control and electrode neg and electrode pos control
I have had all those issues with the orange soot i tried adjusting gas flow and tungsten stick out and still got it i think theres something wrong with my torch or collet or i just have bad argon which ive heard is a thing as well. Is it really that common to have bad argon? Will the gas supply house exchange the tank for free?
Curtis Hinkle Best bet is to use a gas lens. The gas lens makes the gas flow much more laminar as it exits the cup, so it will travel much further past the cup before it becomes unstable and turbulent. You can get stubby cups to get in even closer. I pretty much use nothing but gas lenses these days, no matter what I'm welding.
Looking for a TIG welder for my metal shop. We have always been a light gauge shop and never needed to weld. Lately we have been getting into heavier metals and are getting request for welding. I’m getting tired of subbing it out all the time. All that being said I am NOT a welder, but need to learn and want a decent TIG welder that is simple to use for beginners, but something that we can grow into. 16 ga cold and stainless will be the most of the welding we do. On occasion, I will do some 3/16 Aluminum. Any suggestions on a reliable good machine without breaking the bank. Thanks
Alpha Tig 201 DX. less then $750.00 delivered to your door. simple to use high quality rig. Lots of YT videos about it. Check it out. I have one and I love it! dc tig, ac tig (for alum.) and stick all in one unit!
Should be nice to show weld quality in real world scenario. Thats means, "dirt" pipes inside that you cannot access to grind or clean. Fresh and clean steel, is very easy and allow you to make gross error in gas flow and other setups. In real world scenario it's complete different.
LMAO that gas at the end sounds like woopie cushion, I just hope that you had zero post flow on that one! That's the only reactive gas you want to use while TIG welding, but in moderation. Otherwise, you'll weld the seat of your pants to that piece of furniture! 🤣💩
I just set up my Alpha tig 201 and ive tried everything to trouble shoot the fact that im getting slight spatter and a brown haze by the edge of the weld. Ive tried gas lense, normal diffuser, more and less stickout and went from 5-40 cfh and its always the same, i can hear gas hissing out of the cup everytime but doesnt seem like im getting enough argon to cover the weld and stabilize the arc. Any advice/ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks
When I first started TIG welding I had awful welds with horrid prosity as shown at the beginning of the video, I found that I had a bad ground and there was still small amounts of mill scale on the piece I was welding as it had been sat out for very long.
I can’t figure out what happened to my welder. It used to run really nice. Now, it sparkles and pops like this. And the puddle jumps onto the electrode. And when I am done a weld, the puddle pushes its insides out and is bubbly and hollow. What is going on? Someone please help. Could I have bad gas? Or the wrong gas? Or is there a gas blockage? Is my torch bad? I can hear gas, everything seems set correctly. Is my welder broken? I’ve changed out the electrode and cleaned everything. I’m ready to buy a new welder.. please help
@@mrmidnight32 i started stick welding in High school and that was a long time ago. Just recently i ended up getting stuck welding again through my work and i guess i do pretty good. I've had people that do weld as a profession tell me that i do pretty good. I guess the 30 year break did me good. lol
@Maurice Lingard i still have a problem with sticking rods. I am getting better at it. It's nice to be able to ask someone that does it for a living. I'm still learning the best type of rods to use for certain guages of metal. One thing is for certain. Watching Bob Moffatt's videos are helping a lot learning new tricks. I weld a lot of rusty metal, definitely not ideal material. lol
Christopher McMichael I still stick rods and the amperage I should be at either under cuts like a mother or blows right through. Then when I drop down it doesn’t penetrate with a shit. I mostly do 7018 so that’s part of it. But still when I first tried TiG I was putting down great welds in a week. Years later I still have issues with stick
@@mrmidnight32 i had that problem the very first time when i had gotten into it again. I'm still learning amperage settings for different types of rods. I usually have pretty good luck with 7018 at roughly 115- 120 amps, depending on the thickness of steel. It's a learning experience and a lot of practice and trial and error.
F-ing arsome !! I have another question. What the ?@%@$ is causing my ark to shoot out at all sorts of weird places? I mean It does not come out of the point of the tungsten. It shoots out from the sides and f?@s off to some random place on the work piece. It's more like a plasma ball toy than a welding scenario. Also the puddle seems to be lagging way behind to the point where I can't add filler without dipping into it. Please help. By the way I am talking about welding on the inside of a 90 degree corner join. I am an absolute noob in welding and am not sure why I keep trying the hardest stuff at this point but here I am. Also, you guys are the best! Thank you.
This is my problem too. I'm so shitty of a welder I watch these videos I'm in school for it now. But we never have enough time for the shop lab we stay in the classroom most of the time. So I also have this problem. My ark will turn green on the end. Did u ever figure it out?
I have an issue where I'm going along just fine, then I get sudden sputtering and porosity for seemingly no reason. Edit. After watching more of the video I think I was having a lack of gas from a light breeze..
I'm just starting out, and i COULDN'T FOR THE DAMN LIFE OF ME figure out why my welds were being porous and leaving the brown rust-like stain. You just showed me exactly what was wrong. Doubled my gas flow and I am lookin' SO much better. Thank you.
Same. I had a disposable bottle that had emptied. Doh!
You are a life saver Bob. I watched many tig videos but none has the solutions AND mistakes.
Bob - your instruction is perfectly on point and I love your sense of humor. I just started TIG and this video showed me 2 things I was doing wrong. Thanks.
Bob you're one hell of an instructor keep up the excellent work with your videos as always keep in touch.
this video was huge for me. your material is fantastic.
in the last hour my weld quality went up an order of magnitude. i could not understand why i was experiencing that popping rust insanity! THANK YOU.
One of the deepest, funniest and most important videos on UA-cam.
A great man addresses the fundamental issues of our time.
Now that's some serious Gas Flow.
- Dabs Wellington
Bob is the man👍he has the best beginner content.
Good settings for 15psi , 5sec post flow , 135 amps for 332 , my preferred stick out is about 1/4 - 3/8 " , one thing I do is never touch the grounded point , instead I will hold the tungsten well behind the point and use my thump nail to set the stick out . Thanks for giving tips and tricks for people starting out , OG from the peanut gallery .
Thank you for taking the time to show different settings to give a idea of what could occur if one thing changes dealing with gas flow and expose length!
Great tips. My nephew is always getting porosity in his welds when he borrows my everlast welder. Now instead of trying to explain to him myself I'll get him to watch your video.
And a final warning : If you follow all this advice and STILL have porosity - make sure you don't have a gas leak!
For instance, if you have a hose that gets pulled to a sharp bend as it comes out of the connector, it could crack inside the jacket and leak more gas than it sends to the handpiece. Since this is all inside the jacket it is not visible.
I neither confirm nor deny that this has happened to me....again!
Thanks for the great video!
Oh, these were great examples. You covered every possibility. I’m always trying to explain this to people, but if I don’t have a welder there, they don’t really get it. I’d like to save this video to show people. Keep it on my ipad. I hope that’s ok.
That's what we're here for 👍
Robert, I had a interesting experience as a novice TIG welder (4 months) and I thought for a new title for a video: Trouble shooting welding problems etc. and their solutions. Perhaps not minor picky problems but dramatic problems.... like a experience I had. I have a power tig 185 by everlast and it works just fine ; I've been concentrating on stainless steel 18 and 16 gauge. I started getting board with that and even worked with back purging with much success. I thought it was a good time to start learning AC aluminum welding. Watched a few YT vids and all went very well! (1/8 " 2x3 coupons and some inside and outside corners). That was a Thursday evening, and on Friday morning I sat down for some more practice.... I changed a tank of gas 80 size and...... what the hell, it would not even start a bead! Now as a beginner, I'm not thinking "bad gas" or mislabeled gas, but that was precisely what I had. We think it was mislabeled 25/75 Argon labeled as 100% argon! You can imagine what happened when trying to weld aluminum ; also, I did notice also that my colorful SS welds were now grey when I attempted them. In short, it would not weld Aluminum however! I'm thinking welder on the AC side, or perhaps..... I don't know what could have changed so suddenly? It was "all in the gas" . I just thought that other YT'ers and beginner welders would like to know that this DOES happen.
Never played with tungsten stickout and gas flow. But I had an idea about what it would do. Thanks for the content and keep it up Bob.
Thanks Bob! That answered all my questions. You make it a lot easier on me while trying to teach myself how to tig
Yesterday I was doing some stick welding with my AHP Alphatig 200X. Set to DC, amps to about 80, stick mode etc. Couldn't get a weld going. Just little blobs and hard to start an arc. Reversed polarity and tried AC. Still bad. Then I noticed I forgot to disconnect the foot pedal. Duh! Love your videos! Thanks for all the great information!
Thanks Bob ! I never fail to learn something new, every time i watch one of your videos.
Just learning to tig and noticed the same stuff going on as in your video. I had no idea it was the gas coverage that was causing my problems. Thanks for the video.
I have a question: My gas supplier asked if I wanted a 99.999% argon, or 99.996% argon. I'm not in the US. Caught me completely off guard. He couldn't give me an answer as to the practical difference between the two, and referred me to a welding shop. That other shop guy told me that with the 99.999% I will get a nicer gas cone. I ordered the 99.999% and paid x2 the price... I never saw a % percentage on the American argon even mentioned in any of the videos. What would you get??
I don't even know if the standard in the US is the lower or the higher cleaner argon.
So my questions (sorry for getting long here). 1) What is the % of the Argon in the US that you are using. And 2) Which grade of Argon would you use, or suggest me to use. THANKS!!! This is a fantastic video.
Those numbers seem excessive. High purity is used for critical welds, but is rarely needed for ordinary work.
Industrial co2, o2, Ar for my supplier are 99.995% min purity.
You forgot to show long arc the biggest problem beginners do because of fear of dipping tungsten. GREAT video!!!! You always make me smile.
Long arc was in TIG 101. This was a follow up.
Thanks, this made me realize that I was running just a bit too short of post flow. My tungsten was turning dark and I wasn't sure why.
Nice video. Whats funny is that with a gas lens and #7 cup you could probably stick ur tungsten out an inch and a half and still get a decent weld. Another reason why i love gas lenses. Furick #8 for the win!
Thank You! Nobody has really talked about this stuff with the weird settings specifics.
Thank you for teaching. I appreciate this as a beginner.
I've seen loads of issues in regards to porosity & unfortunately the company I used to work for just turned a blind eye.. I was a Q/C technician & for weeks rejected components daily due to porosity. the company happily shipped items to the USA it was then found via goods inwards in the USA & a cost of shy $40K was made to correct such work.
to this day the company continue shipping poor standards of product welded with missing welds, poor overlaps & porosity beyond words. the fabricators I used to work with simply didn't care, the company didn't care. as shown yes poor gas coverage is a main issue.
overall anyone welding please take note of this video as it really does highlight the issue & cause of the problems
I was trying to be cheap with gas and getting porosity on mild steel
Hi Bob, Great tutorial young man! So am I right to say the post flow protects the weld, the surrounding area of the weld and the tungsten from oxidization from the atmosphere in the critical few cooling seconds as the weld freezes and the tungsten cools.
That is correct.
It's all about the gas flow! LOL. Excellent comparison of what the different settings will do. Would be great to see the same type of content with MIG and stick. amps too high, amps too low. wire feed too fast, wire feed too slow. well played Bob.
"Pedal to the metal" - the absolute madman
This was very helpful! Thanks Master.
Hey, that looks like my first TIG weld! I was welding with 0.3 seconds post flow 🤣🤣🤣
Awesome video!! Really helped me. Thank you!
Hey, Bob. Any tips for someone with a depth perception handicap? I'm teaching myself (with your help. Thank you) but I'm blind on my left side which makes it challenging to maintain arc length. Thanks for everything!
If you have a problem area on carbon steel where porosity is bubbling up and can't get a grinder on it steel use a dab of 300 series stainless and watch the porosity disappear. Old trick.
yzmaximus why is it bubbling like this? 80% of my welds have big air bubbles.
That first weld looks like when I try to weld over paint or shit scrap
lol reminds of mig galv
malhavac shit stick weld some galvanized lol
malhavac mustard gas lol
Looks like all the shit cars I’ve been working on.
Thank you.
Good to see the do's and don'ts.
Cool explanations. Thanks for sharing
A rookie question. Does the long cups help minimize the heat build up in the torch, Started my tig work with just the stubby lenses. And also, what is a good CFH setting for a windy truck service shop with 8 bay doors open to SoFlo winds. Thanks Weld.com and Guys.
15-25 and use a welding curtin to block the wind.
@@thisdj83, been running 20. Fabricated a frame around the steel table and closed it in with moving wraps ( double layer over foam) and the wind still gets around it. And the thought just crossed my mind to add extendable tubes to hang more wraps.
Might want to check the regulator on that methane tank at the end of the video. Good push.
Good video. You covered everything but torch angle.
That was in Tig 101.
The only time(s) i have used 30-35cfh of argon was welding outside (stainless pipe) when it was windy lg gaslense using a #8 or #7 cup, and to anyone that has or wants to learn tig pipe expeshaly stainless or other exotic metals scratch start will always leave a dark burnt area at the end of your weld where you snap out, you will never be fast enough to keep the shielding on the hot metal
Thank you thank you thank you I think I know everything there is about setting my stick out and my gas per pose flow.
So I should save maximum stick out for the bedroom? Good tip.
God!!! I'm dying 😂😂😂love the dude, he don't give a sh*t . He's so done with everything lol and tired, at least he looks like . " cam guys kinda verbally sensitive these days ..😒🙄 " 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have an AHP 201xd unit. It came with a faulty gas solenoid that i had to learn how to replace on the fly. It was a learning experience and Nick at tech says that can happen. However I want yall to know he did not know where to find a new inner hose clamps. He guessed local stores but none had the right ones. ANYHOW i found out that you can (CAREFULLY) remove and reuse the factory clamp.
I miss Bob. Good stuff!
Excellent, so pleased with this site
Thanks for the support 🍻
I love these videos.
Can you do a video on how/what options to cut previous welds in thight spots ?
not that my garage band welding needs it, but now I want to go tinker a bit with post flow. on steel I unknowingly cranked it down....clearly a rookie mistake.
Must flowmeters be positioned 100% vertical(90 degrees to horizontal), in order to give an accurate reading?
Thank you, this video help me so much
I need to get a gas saver cup for my everlast tig welder.
Helpful tips for me. Thanks
If you're debating on gas flow rates, compute the amount of gas that comes out of the torch, and the size of the weld you're doing.
Look at 10 CFH, gas lens, #8 cup.
---10 CFH, converts to 4.8 cubic inches per second.
---- A #8 cup is 1/2" in diameter, so in one second, that cup can make a 24" long stream of argon that's the size of the cup, or a 1.625" sized box can get filled.
--- If the inner third of that 1.6" box is perfectly clean, you can make a 1/2" wide bead that's clean, and then the edges will discolor because your argon got mixed with the air.
--- If Argon gets heated to 200C, it's less dense than air, so it has to shoot out of the cup fast enough to beat the fact that it will want to float, while also trying to hug the item being welded.
--- All of that theory exists so we can at least have a standing chance of predicting what we're trying to accomplish. At the end of the day, practice and test your procedure!
Do you have to replace the tungsten or can you regrind it
When you said “lovely” I thought I was watching a Trump interview for a sec lol
Excellent👍👍
Im having issues welding low carbon tubes. My gas flow is set to 15-20cfh and tungsten length is good. My welds go great for a bit but bubble up and pop. Is this likely attributed to failure to purge the inside of the tube? Im guessing impurities are getting sucked into the weld from the back but im rookie and dont know for sure
I have a question, hope you could assist.
I bought some 309L stainless filler rods for TIG. I intend using them instead of mild steel rods for mild steel welding. This way my weld bead is stainless and corrosion resistant, even if the surrounding metal is mild steel.
Do you see any problem with this?
great lesson,, thanks
Good tips
What if your tungsten not sticking out too far and have 15cfh gas flow, and still got porosity?
Open high pressure cylinders all the way? May be ok with shielding gasses, but in college, was taught to only open fuel gas or oxygen (which are high pressure arent they) only half a turn incase it needs to be closed in an emergency.
That is true for Fuel gas. like acetylene is relatively low pressure (250psig). oxy and shielding gas cylinders are around 2200psig and above and usually have a valve that needs to be all the way out in order to seat and seal properly.
Bob, Do some vertical tig on steel someday?
Great job on set up& gas. What about amp settings
1 amp / .001" thickness is a good starting point.
Venturi, the gasflow takes in air and polution.
Great tutorials. Could you explain on the gasless mig on a later video I.e. incorrect settings.. thanks
Drag instead of push. 30-40 amps per mill thickness, then just set your wire speed to suit. Thats my limited experience with them. I dont think i have seen Bob use one but i bet he is good with gasless as he is with everything else. Biggest mistake would be obviously pushing into your weld i think. But also too much or little wire speed. Amps..... Subjective i think.
If there’s slag you drag Wire speed does add heat
I have a Lincoln 300d and get the rust like stain and cannot get my settings or figure out what the problem may be
recently at work ive been able to use a new miller dynasty 400 id like to ask what are your ideas on arc control and electrode neg and electrode pos control
Thank you! Post flow was too low!
Right on baby!!!
I have had all those issues with the orange soot i tried adjusting gas flow and tungsten stick out and still got it i think theres something wrong with my torch or collet or i just have bad argon which ive heard is a thing as well. Is it really that common to have bad argon? Will the gas supply house exchange the tank for free?
It's extremely uncommon. Are you new to TIG welding? If so, it's more likely a technique issue.
What pressure is your argon regulator set to?,
Can you show how to tig into hard to reach areas? Can my tungsten be out super far if the gas is trapped in around the weld?
Curtis Hinkle Best bet is to use a gas lens. The gas lens makes the gas flow much more laminar as it exits the cup, so it will travel much further past the cup before it becomes unstable and turbulent. You can get stubby cups to get in even closer. I pretty much use nothing but gas lenses these days, no matter what I'm welding.
Can bad argon quality do this?
Looking for a TIG welder for my metal shop. We have always been a light gauge shop and never needed to weld. Lately we have been getting into heavier metals and are getting request for welding. I’m getting tired of subbing it out all the time. All that being said I am NOT a welder, but need to learn and want a decent TIG welder that is simple to use for beginners, but something that we can grow into. 16 ga cold and stainless will be the most of the welding we do. On occasion, I will do some 3/16 Aluminum. Any suggestions on a reliable good machine without breaking the bank. Thanks
Alpha Tig 201 DX. less then $750.00 delivered to your door. simple to use high quality rig. Lots of YT videos about it. Check it out. I have one and I love it! dc tig, ac tig (for alum.) and stick all in one unit!
Is bob doing videos anymore?! He’s taught me since my start
Should be nice to show weld quality in real world scenario. Thats means, "dirt" pipes inside that you cannot access to grind or clean. Fresh and clean steel, is very easy and allow you to make gross error in gas flow and other setups. In real world scenario it's complete different.
LMAO that gas at the end sounds like woopie cushion, I just hope that you had zero post flow on that one! That's the only reactive gas you want to use while TIG welding, but in moderation.
Otherwise, you'll weld the seat of your pants to that piece of furniture! 🤣💩
You’re a Gotddanged hoot, Bob.
I just set up my Alpha tig 201 and ive tried everything to trouble shoot the fact that im getting slight spatter and a brown haze by the edge of the weld. Ive tried gas lense, normal diffuser, more and less stickout and went from 5-40 cfh and its always the same, i can hear gas hissing out of the cup everytime but doesnt seem like im getting enough argon to cover the weld and stabilize the arc. Any advice/ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks
When I first started TIG welding I had awful welds with horrid prosity as shown at the beginning of the video, I found that I had a bad ground and there was still small amounts of mill scale on the piece I was welding as it had been sat out for very long.
I can’t figure out what happened to my welder. It used to run really nice. Now, it sparkles and pops like this. And the puddle jumps onto the electrode. And when I am done a weld, the puddle pushes its insides out and is bubbly and hollow. What is going on? Someone please help. Could I have bad gas? Or the wrong gas? Or is there a gas blockage? Is my torch bad? I can hear gas, everything seems set correctly. Is my welder broken? I’ve changed out the electrode and cleaned everything. I’m ready to buy a new welder.. please help
What causes the arc to dance
Any tips or tricks about welding with .045 wire on 3/16 mild Steel with 75/25 in all positions
Thats like an ideal setup, really isnt much to it other than your settings.
@@semajniffirg230 o yeah but I can only adjust the wire speed not the volts which is stuck at 30 volts
He is so friggen funny. LOL...
Bob, I noticed you're using purple tungsten. I'm assuming it's triple-oxide? Am I the only guy left on the planet that still uses thoriated tungsten?
Yes you are. I also bet your machine has vacuum tube rectifiers and you wear bell bottom work pants you trundling troglodyte! >:)
@@EddieTheGrouch My stereo amplifiers have vacuum tube rectifiers, but not my welder ;-)
My 13 year old grandson says: "I love the way this guy teaches". Yep me too. Smells like LAUGHTER. Gson and I laughed for minutes!
That's awesome! Thanks for the support.
I can't remember the last time I DIDN'T use post flow..
I think I'll master stick welding first. Tig welding looks a little complex for me. lol
Christopher McMichael I had way more trouble learning stick than TiG. I still can’t stick worth a shit lmao
@@mrmidnight32 i started stick welding in High school and that was a long time ago. Just recently i ended up getting stuck welding again through my work and i guess i do pretty good. I've had people that do weld as a profession tell me that i do pretty good. I guess the 30 year break did me good. lol
@Maurice Lingard i still have a problem with sticking rods. I am getting better at it. It's nice to be able to ask someone that does it for a living. I'm still learning the best type of rods to use for certain guages of metal. One thing is for certain. Watching Bob Moffatt's videos are helping a lot learning new tricks. I weld a lot of rusty metal, definitely not ideal material. lol
Christopher McMichael I still stick rods and the amperage I should be at either under cuts like a mother or blows right through.
Then when I drop down it doesn’t penetrate with a shit. I mostly do 7018 so that’s part of it. But still when I first tried TiG I was putting down great welds in a week. Years later I still have issues with stick
@@mrmidnight32 i had that problem the very first time when i had gotten into it again. I'm still learning amperage settings for different types of rods. I usually have pretty good luck with 7018 at roughly 115- 120 amps, depending on the thickness of steel. It's a learning experience and a lot of practice and trial and error.
F-ing arsome !! I have another question. What the ?@%@$ is causing my ark to shoot out at all sorts of weird places? I mean It does not come out of the point of the tungsten. It shoots out from the sides and f?@s off to some random place on the work piece. It's more like a plasma ball toy than a welding scenario. Also the puddle seems to be lagging way behind to the point where I can't add filler without dipping into it. Please help. By the way I am talking about welding on the inside of a 90 degree corner join. I am an absolute noob in welding and am not sure why I keep trying the hardest stuff at this point but here I am.
Also, you guys are the best!
Thank you.
This is my problem too. I'm so shitty of a welder I watch these videos I'm in school for it now. But we never have enough time for the shop lab we stay in the classroom most of the time. So I also have this problem. My ark will turn green on the end. Did u ever figure it out?
So what about Texas TIG?
We got you covered: ua-cam.com/video/OPTrSXgok-8/v-deo.html
I have an issue where I'm going along just fine, then I get sudden sputtering and porosity for seemingly no reason.
Edit.
After watching more of the video I think I was having a lack of gas from a light breeze..
note to self: turn up post flow
5:08 Schleifwinkel? Or Schweißwinkel? Trying german? 🙃😉
Schleifwinkeel = Grind angle
Schweißwinkel = Weld angle
My gas was too low. Thanks.
1st 👍
Nice topic!
Preflow is a sham, just burp the pedal with the electrode away from the material, then begin welding anytime during the post flow.
Old guy,Bad habits, Check settings, Thanks for basics reminder.
"Brown manky crap" lol