You can also move your upper shock bolts to the outer holes and it will give you a little bit more and help the geometry of the suspension. Did all this to my 2017 ranger and got about 2-1/4” out of it.
You just adjusted the preload to make the suspension softer or stiffer by using the spanner wrench to do that. Does it do what you were under the perception it would? Yes, but you also sacrifice ride quality depending on what terrain the adjustment is needed for.
Slightly stiffer, but a big HOWEVER, it's not bad at all. In fact I like it because I always have 3 or 4 people or a load of corn or something. Keeps it from squatting. And everyone that rides in it is like "dang this thing is smooth!"
When I got my 2019 xp 900 the previous owner had the springs all the way down and it had the front end all messed up. Right front was toe’d way in and the left front was toe’d out a bit. When I raised the springs all the way up it straightened out the front end after two or three longer rides. The ride is stiffer but still not bad at all. I’ve seen it work on other Ranger XP’s also. Just an FYI.
Okay so you lifted it up off the ground take the tires off stiffened the write-up that's what those notches are for my question is after you drove it around a little bit what was the right height cuz it has to sell back down
That's not free lift dude....thats called shock preload. By doing that you either end up making the machine very very stiff or very soft depending on which way you go with the preload of the shock. It can cause issues like rollovers, bottoming out, tire rub, stiff ride ect....so know what you're doing before you get too carried away with your suspension....
What size , brand, and model tires do you have ? Also are they considered or is there such things as all terrains for the rangers? I currently have the 29” maxxis big horns but To me the maxxis carnivores look a little bit more of an all terrain.
It might raise the ground clearance but you're totally changing the suspension geometry which means you're totally changing the handling which means you may run into a tree at some point in time. Those adjustments are generally for large changes in vehicle weight not for people to say hey look I can get over a log before, but now I can get over a log with a stick sitting on top of it! You have to think about the entire physics that are occurring when you must drive over an object. Just because the vehicle sits higher doesn't mean it will maintain the same traction amount and that means you may actually get over less obstacles instead of more because you won't have proper traction to bite and pull you over them the same way. Notice there are two things going on if you look at a Polaris RZR and I use that as an example because the suspension travel is often more than the ground clearance. Long travel allows the wheels to drop when the vehicle is in the air and when it comes down to land the shocks start working sooner to slow the compression of the landing and apply it over a greater length of shock movement. This is also an effect of preload adjustment.
I had tried it on mine and the rear stabilizer bar broke at the bracket. It puts a lot of angle on the connector rod. I thought it was much stiffer. @@Marshall1174
I had tried it on mine and the rear stabilizer bar broke at the bracket. It puts a lot of angle on the connector rod. I thought it was much stiffer. @@Marshall1174
Well of course it's 100% free, because it's called a simple adjustment that is based independently on the working weight of the vehicle. Duh! You've never heard of preload adjustment? That "special tool" is simply called a spanner wrench. Your ideology of how to "tweak" things on the Ranger scares me. There are three shock locations not two. Since the shock locations change the angle of the shock to the a-arm it means that shock compression linearity also changes. It has very little to do with softer or harder, but rather how progressive the suspension is in it's total travel. The only way to demonstrate this would be with a line graph. Because with a line graph you would be able to see the amount of coil force exerted over a suspension travel length at any point in its travel. You may want a shock that progresses a different way through the travel so that the more it moves it gets stiffer and stiffer. To the contrary you might want a shock that does not progress the same way or in the same ratio. It will definitely depend on the shock itself being used, the damping being used, and the coil spring rate being used. The people watching this should know that simply jacking your coil spring preload as high as physically possible could make your machine handle like absolute crap who cares about ground clearance when the front or the rear of the vehicle is throwing the other end into the ground harder thus negating ride height when such occurs--geometry is the word and geometry requirement greatly varies depending on weight bias and driving style. Let me guess you also figured out another trick that only one farmer down the road knew about; if you put 80 psi in your tires you can gain another quarter inch of ground clearance. 🤣🤣 The idea even though this idea is greatly lost when it comes to vehicles with four wheels for some reason owners of four-wheel vehicles tend to not research the things that are so important with two wheeled vehicles, yet they operate on the exact same principles more or less. (Sorry, but I had to say it guys). The idea is to keep the tires well planted on the ground, in order to turn / corner, brake, and accelerate optimally. Who cares about ground clearance when that high-speed corner trail slams your front into a giant oak tree because the rear was weighted and the front was not properly bias weighted. Lol. I mean I shouldn't even have to say any of this; you clearly don't even read your manual.
Most weeks we are hauling 300-1000 lbs of feed in the bed, plus passengers. The adjustments have helped keep a proper axle angle when doing so. I've seen others who load up their machines and have negative axle angles and no ground clearance. I know the video has a "free lift" twist on it but I do like the way it improves the stance and it does have legitimate application for my use haluing feed.
@@worldsokayesthunter I wasn't trying to sound so harsh on you, I know you're just trying to do your best--it's just that suspension is a really intricate topic that owners of expensive machines should take the time to learn and understand, IMO. I get that it's not an F1 car and you're not racing, but preload is simply another word for suspension sag. Preload does NOT change spring rate. The moment you hit a bump, the preload ceases to even exist as it's traveled right through anything preload can accomplish. So even though you might be loading the suspension with a lot of weight, preload isn't the answer to that change--spring rate is. Preload doesn't change spring rates. If you put 1000lbs in the center between the seats for example, yes the vehicle will sag, and you can gain a tiny bit of compression at the start of travel to make it look better when sitting still. The problem is that due to the factory soft spring rates, the added weight will travel right through the springs and the vehicle will still bottom out and not suspend well. When you increase average vehicle weight, then you must increase spring rate, and that's done with different springs that are physically stiffer. Since they are stiffer, when sitting, the vehicle will ride too high. So the preload allows you to lower the static (low speed) height. Think of it like a way to move the spring around, but not a way to change how the springs interact with the ground. If your average vehicle weight is say always +600lbs, you should consider researching new springs that will make the vehicle feel, to an extent, similar to the factory feel. It's not easy I know, when weight is always changing, there's no perfect answer to that. It should be setup for the weight bias that is experienced most often, and only you will know that answer. If the weight is due to trailer towing, of course it won't be over the vehicle. In that scenario the rear acts more like the pivot point of the weight and it is constantly transferring that pivot forward and backward on and off of the front tires, yet it still does load the rear tires more of course. It's tricky, I'm not going to claim it's easy to figure for constant changes, but I would at least like to introduce the starting ideas involved in that process. And I haven't even talked about damping, a whole other can of worms to open. Chances are, you're fine and won't suffer any major problems that you can notice; if you happen to have a team of mechanics sitting nearby they could quickly change the suspension around and demonstrate what could be gained or lost. At that point you would begin to recognize a lot more about how the suspension reacts to things under various conditions--but it's very rare for any of us to have a team of mechanics sitting around waiting to tune the suspension optimally for every situation lol. So yeah it is much easier said than done!
You can also move your upper shock bolts to the outer holes and it will give you a little bit more and help the geometry of the suspension. Did all this to my 2017 ranger and got about 2-1/4” out of it.
You just adjusted the preload to make the suspension softer or stiffer by using the spanner wrench to do that. Does it do what you were under the perception it would? Yes, but you also sacrifice ride quality depending on what terrain the adjustment is needed for.
Hey, did you find it stiffened up the ride much?
A slight bit, but people still think the ranger rides like butter
You should have driven it before you measured you want get but 3\4 to 1in by adjusting you shocks. But great video..
just put a set of 14 inch wheels and 27 inch tires does not rub now that I adjusted shocks
That’s what I did as well and the front right rubs now did it effect the ride?
It rubs when I turn hard right
Why did you take the wheels off?
It is much much easier to adjust the springs with them off.
How did it effect you ride? Stiffer, smoother?
Slightly stiffer but everyone that rides in it thinks it's smooth.
I remember making this same adjustment to the rear shock/springs on my 79 Honda Elsinore 250 thinking it would lift the rear of the bike.😆
LOL that's what I was getting at in the post I just made.
Awesome
Did it change the ride at all? Love the videos. Waiting on my 2022 ranger crew xp 1000 to come in!!
Slightly stiffer, but a big HOWEVER, it's not bad at all. In fact I like it because I always have 3 or 4 people or a load of corn or something. Keeps it from squatting. And everyone that rides in it is like "dang this thing is smooth!"
When I got my 2019 xp 900 the previous owner had the springs all the way down and it had the front end all messed up. Right front was toe’d way in and the left front was toe’d out a bit. When I raised the springs all the way up it straightened out the front end after two or three longer rides. The ride is stiffer but still not bad at all. I’ve seen it work on other Ranger XP’s also. Just an FYI.
Okay so you lifted it up off the ground take the tires off stiffened the write-up that's what those notches are for my question is after you drove it around a little bit what was the right height cuz it has to sell back down
How did it affect your ride quality
Barely noticeable
@@worldsokayesthunter to someone who doesnt notice much maybe, but to those who pay attention it stiffens your ride a lot.
@@StatueofGuyThinkingno it doesn't, don't try to be special
Did it change the ride much?
It's a bit stiffer but it rides great overall.
Great 👍🏻 thank you for sharing
What kind of shocks come on these from the factory ?
I don't know the model/specs. Let me get back to you.
@@worldsokayesthunter it’s been a year….did you find out?
@@JKU_Aaron_4X4 I have no idea
@@worldsokayesthunter ok I’ll see you in a year😀
@ay-ay-ron8895 been going strong for 2.5 years.
That's not free lift dude....thats called shock preload. By doing that you either end up making the machine very very stiff or very soft depending on which way you go with the preload of the shock. It can cause issues like rollovers, bottoming out, tire rub, stiff ride ect....so know what you're doing before you get too carried away with your suspension....
So which of the "symptoms" you describe aren't true of an actual lift kit? Did he get lift? Yes, did it cost a penny? No.. free lift.
What size , brand, and model tires do you have ? Also are they considered or is there such things as all terrains for the rangers? I currently have the 29” maxxis big horns but To me the maxxis carnivores look a little bit more of an all terrain.
These are the stock 27 inch tires that come with the ranger. Honestly not even sure the brand. I will look tomorrow though.
I have a Polaris 2022 1000 3 premium. It has 26” tires and around 13” clearance. If I adjust my shocks do you think I will get 14.5 clearance on mine?
Yes, I bet it will.
Great you had the best upgrade videos on UA-cam for Polaris.Thanks Keep up the good work
It might raise the ground clearance but you're totally changing the suspension geometry which means you're totally changing the handling which means you may run into a tree at some point in time. Those adjustments are generally for large changes in vehicle weight not for people to say hey look I can get over a log before, but now I can get over a log with a stick sitting on top of it! You have to think about the entire physics that are occurring when you must drive over an object. Just because the vehicle sits higher doesn't mean it will maintain the same traction amount and that means you may actually get over less obstacles instead of more because you won't have proper traction to bite and pull you over them the same way. Notice there are two things going on if you look at a Polaris RZR and I use that as an example because the suspension travel is often more than the ground clearance. Long travel allows the wheels to drop when the vehicle is in the air and when it comes down to land the shocks start working sooner to slow the compression of the landing and apply it over a greater length of shock movement. This is also an effect of preload adjustment.
I had tried it on mine and the rear stabilizer bar broke at the bracket. It puts a lot of angle on the connector rod. I thought it was much stiffer. @@Marshall1174
I had tried it on mine and the rear stabilizer bar broke at the bracket. It puts a lot of angle on the connector rod. I thought it was much stiffer. @@Marshall1174
If I do this
You think I can fit 30" tires on my stock rims ?
2021 1000 Xp ranger
100% 30s would work. The Northstar comes with 29s.
Can they be adjusted without jacking and taking the wheel off?
No, you have to get the tire off. You need to space to turn the adjuster.
Yes you can.
All I did was Jack it up and turned them with channel locks. You don’t need to take the wheels off.
@@tobypuffer3377 makes sense. Never tried it that way.
this guy has no idea what hes actually doing, best to find another channel if you want someone with actual knowledge.
Sweet
Hello! We have a pair of Polaris ranger side mirrors, and we are now looking for someone to test it for us. Are you interested?
Absolutely
@@worldsokayesthunter But I don’t have your contact information, can you share your facebook or email address？
@@summerlee5605 what is the best way to share? Another option is that I purchase the product. What product is it?
@@worldsokayesthunter Do you have other contact methods? For example, facebook, ins or email, we can discuss this matter further.
NICE ❕❕❕
Now do a video to show how terrible the ride is now😂
It rides just fine. I get compliments all the time(admittedly mostly from people who ride 4wheelers). Haha
Well of course it's 100% free, because it's called a simple adjustment that is based independently on the working weight of the vehicle. Duh! You've never heard of preload adjustment? That "special tool" is simply called a spanner wrench. Your ideology of how to "tweak" things on the Ranger scares me. There are three shock locations not two. Since the shock locations change the angle of the shock to the a-arm it means that shock compression linearity also changes. It has very little to do with softer or harder, but rather how progressive the suspension is in it's total travel. The only way to demonstrate this would be with a line graph. Because with a line graph you would be able to see the amount of coil force exerted over a suspension travel length at any point in its travel. You may want a shock that progresses a different way through the travel so that the more it moves it gets stiffer and stiffer. To the contrary you might want a shock that does not progress the same way or in the same ratio. It will definitely depend on the shock itself being used, the damping being used, and the coil spring rate being used. The people watching this should know that simply jacking your coil spring preload as high as physically possible could make your machine handle like absolute crap who cares about ground clearance when the front or the rear of the vehicle is throwing the other end into the ground harder thus negating ride height when such occurs--geometry is the word and geometry requirement greatly varies depending on weight bias and driving style. Let me guess you also figured out another trick that only one farmer down the road knew about; if you put 80 psi in your tires you can gain another quarter inch of ground clearance. 🤣🤣 The idea even though this idea is greatly lost when it comes to vehicles with four wheels for some reason owners of four-wheel vehicles tend to not research the things that are so important with two wheeled vehicles, yet they operate on the exact same principles more or less. (Sorry, but I had to say it guys). The idea is to keep the tires well planted on the ground, in order to turn / corner, brake, and accelerate optimally. Who cares about ground clearance when that high-speed corner trail slams your front into a giant oak tree because the rear was weighted and the front was not properly bias weighted. Lol. I mean I shouldn't even have to say any of this; you clearly don't even read your manual.
Most weeks we are hauling 300-1000 lbs of feed in the bed, plus passengers. The adjustments have helped keep a proper axle angle when doing so. I've seen others who load up their machines and have negative axle angles and no ground clearance. I know the video has a "free lift" twist on it but I do like the way it improves the stance and it does have legitimate application for my use haluing feed.
@@worldsokayesthunter I wasn't trying to sound so harsh on you, I know you're just trying to do your best--it's just that suspension is a really intricate topic that owners of expensive machines should take the time to learn and understand, IMO. I get that it's not an F1 car and you're not racing, but preload is simply another word for suspension sag. Preload does NOT change spring rate. The moment you hit a bump, the preload ceases to even exist as it's traveled right through anything preload can accomplish. So even though you might be loading the suspension with a lot of weight, preload isn't the answer to that change--spring rate is. Preload doesn't change spring rates. If you put 1000lbs in the center between the seats for example, yes the vehicle will sag, and you can gain a tiny bit of compression at the start of travel to make it look better when sitting still. The problem is that due to the factory soft spring rates, the added weight will travel right through the springs and the vehicle will still bottom out and not suspend well. When you increase average vehicle weight, then you must increase spring rate, and that's done with different springs that are physically stiffer. Since they are stiffer, when sitting, the vehicle will ride too high. So the preload allows you to lower the static (low speed) height. Think of it like a way to move the spring around, but not a way to change how the springs interact with the ground. If your average vehicle weight is say always +600lbs, you should consider researching new springs that will make the vehicle feel, to an extent, similar to the factory feel. It's not easy I know, when weight is always changing, there's no perfect answer to that. It should be setup for the weight bias that is experienced most often, and only you will know that answer. If the weight is due to trailer towing, of course it won't be over the vehicle. In that scenario the rear acts more like the pivot point of the weight and it is constantly transferring that pivot forward and backward on and off of the front tires, yet it still does load the rear tires more of course. It's tricky, I'm not going to claim it's easy to figure for constant changes, but I would at least like to introduce the starting ideas involved in that process. And I haven't even talked about damping, a whole other can of worms to open. Chances are, you're fine and won't suffer any major problems that you can notice; if you happen to have a team of mechanics sitting nearby they could quickly change the suspension around and demonstrate what could be gained or lost. At that point you would begin to recognize a lot more about how the suspension reacts to things under various conditions--but it's very rare for any of us to have a team of mechanics sitting around waiting to tune the suspension optimally for every situation lol. So yeah it is much easier said than done!
Doesn't do shit !
It worked for me. Atleast a little. :)