Just wrecked my bike and thanks to you I didnt have to pay a mechanic to repair it should be good to go once the battery is charged. Appreciate the hard work
I have been looking for weeks for my solution...you are the man..everyone else talks about what to do ..you went Hands on step by step.just what I needed ...you rock .thanks to u and your video's my honda is alive and I'm riding bro..again thanks much for your time and experience
Joe Pike9 I’m very happy that it could help you. I really wanted to make some videos of not just fixing my problem but also showing all the troubleshooting to narrow down what’s wrong. Many different things can cause the exact same problem on the bike and I didn’t want to skip anything because someone else’s bike might have a slightly different problem even though they’re having the same issue at the end of the day. Again I appreciate your comment and I’m truly happy that your bike is going again. For me I ended fixing a wire and replacing my ECM as that was the last resort in the service manual and my baby is rocking now too. Slightly different problem but same issue of bike not priming and starting. Cheers brother and ride safe.
Yes I have seen so many threads of same issue I had but still no fix . I have replaced everything I mean everything front to back from ignition to the ECU and everything in between . Wire harness , relays . Stator. IPG. Cam sensor, the RR, all switches . I have spent hundreds . If I could have just seen your videos months ago. I am subscribed and watching . Keep up the great work." Fuckit I'm going in"
I’m not typically one to comment on youtube video but i just wanted to say thanks a lot. I put my BAS on upside down whilst fitting my new fairings. looks better and is easier to put in upside down so i didn’t think anything of it. My bike is running good as new now. Thanks again
09 cbr1000rr, the relays are under the seat, head light relay is beside the bank angle sensor in the frt cowl. My fault was at the smaller block connecter behind the lft side faring. Thanx again. all bypasses removed, headlights work and she runs like a champ
@@TubeSocksMalonehey buddy I’m having a issue with my 06 can’t get any power to the fuel pump but if I jump the relay with the red and black wire it will prime and bike will start and run. If you could reach out to me it would be much appreciated! Thank you
thanks man, looks like a big weekend coming up. If i just bypass the bank angle and she primes might save doing the front nose untill i get the new part, right now i have jumped the fuel pump and she runs. just no lights or horn. i already replaced the fuel pump and all relays and stop start switch. thanks for the step by step
Hi Mike great set of videos, thanks mate. I went through all these checks using them as a guide because I just had same problem on my 2005 cbr600rr. In the end it turned out to be a 20amp fuse on the injector wiring circuit near the battery, it's on its own hidden away and I completely missed it when I was looking. Take care and best wishes from NZ.
Bro you saved my ass. I did the exact same thing and went through the entire service manual, it's weird that single fuse isn't mentioned anywhere. Anyways, thanks brooo!!
From memory it's a small plastic holder on a single black wire and it's very near the positive battery terminal and the starter relay. The yellow 15 amp fuse is held inside the plastic casing.
Thanks for these videos, Socks, they’ve helped me a lot. I don’t have the same bike as you (no bank sensor, for example) but I do have the same problem in that my fuel pump isn’t priming, but now I know what to test and how to do it. I’m in the UK, by the way, just for the record. All the best buddy.
Hey! Ive followed every step you did and read the comments. It seems that i have an open circuit in the B/W wire. The 20A fuse blows up every-time the ignition is ON and on RUN. No power on B16 as well. Any suggestions beside opening the harness and following the wire?
Khayyal K I made a reply before but deleted it as I misunderstood you which was my fault. Are you talking about the 20amp inline fuse that runs directly off the battery cable. The mini yellow 20amp fuse. Not the 30 amp main fuse
MotoBike Mike yea that one. Its connected to the + on one side and a connector on the other. After further diagnosis, this is the update: * changed the 20A fuse and disconnected ecm. I’m getting V in B16. The minute i connect the ecm, fuse blows
Khayyal K ok well I have bad news, good news and more bad news then good news. The bad news is double check all your grounds just to be safe but they’re probably more than likely just fine, that’s bad news because it’s free to fix. The good news is I’ve had this exact same issue with that exact same fuse just keep on blowing. The more bad news is when I had that problem I was 100% positive I tested everything I showed in the video properly without question exactly as shown so the last option is ECM because you can’t test and ECM except for swapping it with one you know works so I bought a good one off eBay from a shop and came from a running bike. Guess what. Good news is my bike runs. You seem to have the exact problem I have to the letter. So double check everything I showed just to be certain you didn’t skip a step then well buy an ECM and let me know how she runs after 🤘 kid you not if you tested everything I showed and didn’t mess it up it’ll run with a new working ECM. Just make sure you buy the right ECM as California and the rest of North America have different modules and slightly different wire harness’s. Match up the part # on your ECM that’s installed right now don’t just go by the year 👌 I would be very hard pressed if I was wrong.
Khayyal K just double check everything just in case you fudged a step then swap an ECM. It’s sucks cause you have to spend money BUT if you tested everything I showed that’s exactly what you’ll have to do. Probably a burnt out transistor inside your ECM. Not fixable by any means just have to replace it.
MotoBike Mike i had battery and rectifier issues prior. My assumption is that the rectifier overcharged the battery (battery was whistling at one point), battery send overcharge to ecm and fried it. Oh well, learnt a lot from your videos and the service manual. Great content, keep it up!
I have a 2001 f4i no 16 pin on my ecu but when I bridge my stop go engine start it switched on my fuel pump and was able to start my bike what could be the problem
My pump only kicks on if I bypass the fuel pump relay. Killswitch will turn the pump on and off if that relay is jumped. Any ideas ? Mines a 03. Ignition diode is bypassed. Tip sensor is bypassed.
Hi, I have an 04 CBR1000rr and, the FI fuse keeps blowing. Disconnecting the ECU, it doesn't blow. I had this issue about a year ago, changed ECU and it fixed the problem. I have the problem again. Hoping it isn't the ECU again, these are expensive. Last time I checked the bike over, I couldn't find any shorts, so almost clueless why this has happened yet again. Disconnected the regulator / stator. Fuse stays fine. Would appreciate some guidance if you could. I am thinking there is a serious short somewhere. Bike died when I was out for a ride. Battery extremely hot. When I was out for that ride, the battery already stopped charging, so I had to bump start it. After a while it completely died and now this fuse blows :(
I have a 07 zzr600 and I am having a issue wit the fuel pump not priming I put a new one and a new relay I search for a while for the tip sensor to realize that there is not one for this bike so would you know wat to do cause I have been seeing people just manually power there fuel pump by a toggle switch
Where abouts are you in the 3 part video series?. Lots of wires are tested so I can give you a generic answer but I’m not sure what part you’re at. Add the time in the comments of where you’re at in this video. If you’re referring to part 2 of this series than go to that video and comment.
Man I know this an old video but how much voltage should be reading through pin 16 I’m getting low volts(.5) though it but I’m not sure if it should read this or battery voltage
Thank you brother, my bike is turning over but won’t start, you can hear it prime and everything, it an 04 Honda 600rr do you know what it could be? A good person had told me the tip sensor and he really seems to know what he’s talking about. Could that be a reason why my bike is not starting?
No if it was your Bank Angle Sensor which is the tip over sensor your fuel pump wouldn’t prime at all that is one of the symptoms I talk about in this video series to diagnose your fuel pump not priming . It could be many things though if your fuel pump is priming but not turning over. Injectors, spark plugs, fuel line etc. Could even be your battery if it’s not strong enough. Reading 12 volts doesn’t mean anything only way to check if your battery is failing is doing a load test. A bad battery could still read 12 volts.
Safe to say if 20amp inline fuse keeps blowing with ecu plugged in then its fried? 2006 600rr like yours...all same results you got...although im gtting a new starter solnoid coming in since mine was a bit corroded. Could I send you a video to get some idea's off you?
I’m assuming you’re at the point testng the bank angle sensor and you have checked already to see if the relay is faulty as well so if the relay is good and nothing happens when you are testing the bank angle sensor than that means you probably have a faulty bank angle sensor if you have done the previous steps correctly and be sure don’t skip steps saying to yourself “I know that’s fine” and go one to the next lol
@@TubeSocksMalone I tested them all following your videos. There was damage to the bank angle sensor when I was removing it. I couldn’t seem to get it to bypass with putting a jumper wire between the green and black I believe were the colors tho. Don’t know if that leds it to somewhere else.
I tested my bank angle sensor and when I tested the red/white wire with the green wire, it read close to the battery voltage. Any chance anyone knows what that means? When I tested the white/black wire with the green wire it read close to the battery voltage as well.
MOTOBIKE MIKE YOU ARE MY HUCKLEBERRY! DUDE SO WHAT HAPPENED I REPLACED MY FRONT COWL FAIRING RESTORED ALL SAME AND DAMM BIKE CRANKED BUT NO FIRE. RAN INTO YOUR VIEDO AND DAMM WOULDN'T YOU KNOW IT I MOUNTED BACK THE LEAN BANK UPSIDE DOWN OK! YOU THE MAN THANKS A MILLION ! BEST. ARTHUR JUAREZ
Hey mate your videos have help me a lot! I have a 2006 CBR 600rr in Timor Leste 🇹🇱 the only one here!! I have a ground problem in the fuel pump relay. When I give ground to the brown and black cable the pump start on. Can you help me please how to solve this problem? Thanks.
Very helpful thanks man! My bike runs totally fine but i have same fuel gauge error that you have (increasing from middle) ,i checked for shorted circuits and i had one and i fixed it but the error is still there and i don't think that it is the speedometer or the gauge sensor like the service manual mentioning because the error appeared when i changed my fairing and put the mirror wires that was shorted before that it had no error i think i didn't fix the bank angle properly, could it be it causing the error? But if it is the problem i think my bike shouldn't run at all. Anyways i will check it but if you have any other ideas that might be helpful that will be awesome
Omar Hamza yeah if it was the BAS the fuel pump wouldn’t even prime. I have a feeling it could possibly be what measure the fuel inside the tank itself. Maybe a sensor or something. My fuel gauge was all wonky because I had the fuel pump disconnected
Hello friend. First congratulations on your willingness and didactics to teach, you are a teacher. Well, I need to ask a question. While bridging the car's battery, the red injection/oil light flickered and went out. From there I started testing from the service manual. But I'm a layman, and your videos brought the manual to life. I tested the 3 relays, they click and have continuity. I tested the engine relay harness and voltage is coming. I tested the angle sensor harness and voltage is coming. I went to test the module (black connector) and at point 18 it is not showing continuity as you say it should be. Only connector 4 shows values. Another problem is that when I turn the angle sensor it doesn't click the relay. My faith is that the problem is in the wiring of the cut off relay, I don't know very well how to test this wiring. But what intrigues me is the problem at point 18. I'm digging, it seems to me that some grounding must have overheated and ruptured, but I'm not finding it. Can you give me a light from this report?
Only 2003/2004 have them in North America and only Europeon bikes for the rest. North American 2005 and 2006 models don’t have it 🤘 and California have a different wire harness also. So for North America that is never the issue for a 2005/06 model year
What I showed in this video is exactly how the service manual shows to diagnose a 2005/06 CBR600RR not just my way but the proper way for North America. Not all 600RR around the world are the same 🤘 that’s what people forget. Harness and ignitions are different for models outside of North America and California has a different harness because they have different and stricter regulations for emissions so they have I believe an evap canister. Also North America, Euopeon and California have completely different ECM’s.
Good evening everyone, I would need a little help from you, I also have a cbr 600 rr 2005 with a small problem, it's when I start it and it doesn't start, it gets gas, kill switch it is checked, it has no problems, I understood, but why does it start if I push it in a very short distance of 1.5 meters and it starts easily... Thanks a lot for help me ✌️🤝
Hello mate been following these trilogy of videos on the 05 600rr not priming. When I come to bridging the engine relay to check number 16 on the ecu, even though the key is off the fuel pump primes and then I can turn the key and the bike fires up and runs but then the only way I can shut the bike off is to take the bridge out. Any ideas please? I'm pulling my hair out. Great videos by the way. I have subscribed to your channel. Very helpful 👍🏻
I can make a video of it very shortly. It is fairly simple. The basic quick explanation of how to do it is once you have everything off and you can access your BAS you will see a cable and black connector attached to it with 3 wires. I believe Red, Yellow and Green. All you have to do is basically take an extra piece of wire stick it in and use that small piece of wire to jump the Red wire and green wire. Done. BAS system bypassed and you can remove your headlights for track days or whatever you need to do etc just remember your bike won’t shut off if tipped over now though.
@@TubeSocksMalone my issue was the fuel pump doesnt prime. ive checked these parts: the on-off run switch and wirings ok, installed new fuel pump, engine cut off relay is ok, fuel cut off relay is ok but no supply from ecu, relays tested on and off the bike, did the angle test on the BAS and click method it was ok, bypassed it and still no fuel pump prime, i did jumper method on the fuel pump relay and it worked, traced other wire on this relay leads to the ecu...can i assume now the ecu is at fault?
sgtjoe2008 I want to assume the ECU is pooched as well if what you’re saying is correct. Especially if you have power going to your ECM but it’s not sending any power out as the final culprit for my bike was the ECM and mine is running now. it does sound like you checked everything and if that’s the case your next step is to swap the ECM with a known good one. That is the only way to test an ECM as their is no way to actually test it except sticking one you know works in your bike. If it doesn’t work than you missed something like a possible broken wire in the circuit but it sounds like your ECM at this point
This three part vid is the best I've seen and so easy to follow!! Ive a 2005 and tested the engine relay and got no power so went straight to the BAS. For the easy test no click, and with the multimeter got no power. Bypassed the BAS by jumping it and still nothing. Have got bike to prime when connecting power directly and was able to start bike when i ran a wire directly to battery to ground/earth it but that is not practical and still no hlights/indicators. Is there a part 4? Or any recommendations? Understand you're doing this for free so thanks for all the help so far regardless
Johanna Kelly thank you I appreciate it and I hope you can figure out what’s wrong. No part 4 these are all the steps that are in the service manual for troubleshooting the fuel pump not priming I just broke them all down so it’s easier to follow along rather than jumping around in a big service manual and reading wiring diagrams as I know that can easily become overwhelming. Try going through everything from part 1 but don’t skip any steps and see if you notice anything. It’s easy to miss something if you skip a skip thinking it’s fine trust me. If you can eliminate everything without question than it will be easier. Also sounds cliche but double check all the connections to make sure they’re not corroded or damaged. I made sure to test everything and I was 100% certain everything worked that I tested and no damaged wire I have continuity and power where I needed it so I went ahead and could confidently buy a new ECM and my bike runs 👌. Just really have to make sure you test everything in the videos don’t skip anything.
@@TubeSocksMalone thanks man! Went ahead and followed the videos more out of curiosity and got power at b16 and the other tests worked fine. Have a feeling since I'm getting zero at the engine relay and zero for the tests at the BAS wires its something to do with the red and white wire before it gets to the BAS. Just gotta follow it and search for the break. (And double check all the obvious) Thanks again so much for your videos and help! Bike would be ignored for another few months without you!
Hello Bro. Excellent videos, I checked my bike using your videos, one thing, i found my issue on the zener Diode of the ignition key, it's broke and the ECU was receiving 12v but it need 9v for send the signal at the Fuel pump. Regards
Sorry for the late reply. If your Diode is broken in your ignition then just replace it with this Diode and it should work fine you can order them off Ebay and maybe amazon. the Diode is 1N4730A (3.9V, 1W) it should work fine after if you install it in the right direction if you install the Diode backwards just flip it around and should be fine they only work 1 way.
@@TubeSocksMalone The Fuel pump Is working now, I needed replace the Diode like you mention, but I have another issue, the bike have spark, fuel, but it doesn't works, I added Fuel directly to the trhottels and the motor don't move, do you have a some tip for this issue? Regards
My issue ended up being the fuel pump itself. Replaced that and bike ran good for a while now it sputters and dies at red lights usually in first with the clutch pulled in. After reading around a bit I suspect its the stator so gonna check that and the rectifier. Fixed the issue for someone else on yt with a RR
Anti IV that sucks but at the same time glad you figured out the problem. Better scenario than mine lol my black and white wire has a short so I have to check everything that runs off that wire. Somewhere it is melted or something and snorting out. I hope I can locate exactly where it is or I will have to re wire my bike lol fingers crossed I can locate and replace that part of the wire. I really don’t want to re wire my bike. Not hard but a very tedious task and time consuming.
boonehouston I have a few questions first. Does the relay work? You have power going to the relay but is the relay working where it’s sending power out?
boonehouston also a one more question. Just so I know. Have you fully watched all 3 parts of this troubleshooting and followed along exactly. Don’t skip any steps. Follow it exactly regardless if you think you know where the problem is. Don’t skip anything you would be surprised.
Felix Ortiz at some point if you did everything I did you would notice where you don’t have power. Mine does not prime still but it’s because their is a short in my black and white wire. Did you do every test? Have you checked you FI fuse which is the small 20amp fuse run directly off your positive cable on your battery?
If you check every single thing shown in all 3 videos and everything works then you have a short in your wire harness. Either the red and white wire that runs from you battery positive cable to the engine stop relay or the black wire with the white stripe on you engine stop relay if you watched my videos you know exactly what wires I’m talking about. That black and white wire has a bunch of stuff run off it so if you checked everything I showed and everything works then you have a short in the wire and you will need a wire diagram and check every wire that runs off that black and white wire. I am making another video shortly explaining better what I just wrote in this comment. But if you are positive you checked everything then you would notice where you do or don’t have power. Do you have power at the pins of the ECM that I showed to test in one of the videos?
Felix Ortiz another big culprit to many electrical problems is the small yellow box on the left side on the wire harness close to where the subframe attaches to the actual frame of the bike. That yellow plug is notorious for melting and snorting out and screwing all the grounds up.
xxxdriftr are you talking about the in-line fuse that comes off the positive cable of the battery or the main fuse off the starter solenoid. Not sure what year yours is but double check the service manual for your year I know 2003-2006 the inline fuse off the positive near the battery should be a mini 20 amp fuse and the main fuse on the starter solenoid is a regular 20 or 30 amp fuse I’d have to double check myself on that one but the mini is a 20 amp Not sure if we are talking about the same fuse but if the one you’re talking about is running off the positive cable then we are.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude you’re a life saver thank you for the countless hours of footage and editing you put in, to share to us riders. Thank you!!!
Just glad to help even a little 🤘
Brilliant 3 part video. As a beginner biker, you made 8t super easy to follow and understand. 🙏🙏 Awesome
Just wrecked my bike and thanks to you I didnt have to pay a mechanic to repair it should be good to go once the battery is charged. Appreciate the hard work
Glad to hear you’re okay all things considering and able to get back out there and enjoy the open road.
I have been looking for weeks for my solution...you are the man..everyone else talks about what to do ..you went Hands on step by step.just what I needed ...you rock .thanks to u and your video's my honda is alive and I'm riding bro..again thanks much for your time and experience
Joe Pike9 I’m very happy that it could help you. I really wanted to make some videos of not just fixing my problem but also showing all the troubleshooting to narrow down what’s wrong. Many different things can cause the exact same problem on the bike and I didn’t want to skip anything because someone else’s bike might have a slightly different problem even though they’re having the same issue at the end of the day. Again I appreciate your comment and I’m truly happy that your bike is going again. For me I ended fixing a wire and replacing my ECM as that was the last resort in the service manual and my baby is rocking now too. Slightly different problem but same issue of bike not priming and starting. Cheers brother and ride safe.
Yes I have seen so many threads of same issue I had but still no fix . I have replaced everything I mean everything front to back from ignition to the ECU and everything in between . Wire harness , relays . Stator. IPG. Cam sensor, the RR, all switches . I have spent hundreds . If I could have just seen your videos months ago. I am subscribed and watching . Keep up the great work." Fuckit I'm going in"
I’m not typically one to comment on youtube video but i just wanted to say thanks a lot. I put my BAS on upside down whilst fitting my new fairings. looks better and is easier to put in upside down so i didn’t think anything of it. My bike is running good as new now. Thanks again
Anytime. I’m happy you were able to figure it out
09 cbr1000rr, the relays are under the seat, head light relay is beside the bank angle sensor in the frt cowl. My fault was at the smaller block connecter behind the lft side faring. Thanx again. all bypasses removed, headlights work and she runs like a champ
Glad to hear it. Have fun and ride on
@@TubeSocksMalonehey buddy I’m having a issue with my 06 can’t get any power to the fuel pump but if I jump the relay with the red and black wire it will prime and bike will start and run. If you could reach out to me it would be much appreciated! Thank you
Just want to say thanks for explaining with details because I didn't have same problem but was able to solve mine through your videos
thanks man, looks like a big weekend coming up. If i just bypass the bank angle and she primes might save doing the front nose untill i get the new part, right now i have jumped the fuel pump and she runs. just no lights or horn. i already replaced the fuel pump and all relays and stop start switch. thanks for the step by step
Hi Mike great set of videos, thanks mate. I went through all these checks using them as a guide because I just had same problem on my 2005 cbr600rr. In the end it turned out to be a 20amp fuse on the injector wiring circuit near the battery, it's on its own hidden away and I completely missed it when I was looking.
Take care and best wishes from NZ.
Thank you I appreciate it. That’s great you got it all sorted out 🤘
Bro you saved my ass. I did the exact same thing and went through the entire service manual, it's weird that single fuse isn't mentioned anywhere. Anyways, thanks brooo!!
Where is that located?
From memory it's a small plastic holder on a single black wire and it's very near the positive battery terminal and the starter relay. The yellow 15 amp fuse is held inside the plastic casing.
Thanks for these videos, Socks, they’ve helped me a lot. I don’t have the same bike as you (no bank sensor, for example) but I do have the same problem in that my fuel pump isn’t priming, but now I know what to test and how to do it. I’m in the UK, by the way, just for the record. All the best buddy.
All the best to you too and I hope you figure out the problem, cheers.
Ok so I know this is a long shot being as this video was posted 3 years ago but, what if there is no power into the BAS aswell as the engine relay?
Damn, I wish I saw this before I bought a new wiring harness. Thanks for the information.
Hey! Ive followed every step you did and read the comments. It seems that i have an open circuit in the B/W wire. The 20A fuse blows up every-time the ignition is ON and on RUN. No power on B16 as well. Any suggestions beside opening the harness and following the wire?
Khayyal K I made a reply before but deleted it as I misunderstood you which was my fault. Are you talking about the 20amp inline fuse that runs directly off the battery cable. The mini yellow 20amp fuse. Not the 30 amp main fuse
MotoBike Mike yea that one. Its connected to the + on one side and a connector on the other. After further diagnosis, this is the update: * changed the 20A fuse and disconnected ecm. I’m getting V in B16. The minute i connect the ecm, fuse blows
Khayyal K ok well I have bad news, good news and more bad news then good news. The bad news is double check all your grounds just to be safe but they’re probably more than likely just fine, that’s bad news because it’s free to fix. The good news is I’ve had this exact same issue with that exact same fuse just keep on blowing. The more bad news is when I had that problem I was 100% positive I tested everything I showed in the video properly without question exactly as shown so the last option is ECM because you can’t test and ECM except for swapping it with one you know works so I bought a good one off eBay from a shop and came from a running bike. Guess what. Good news is my bike runs. You seem to have the exact problem I have to the letter. So double check everything I showed just to be certain you didn’t skip a step then well buy an ECM and let me know how she runs after 🤘 kid you not if you tested everything I showed and didn’t mess it up it’ll run with a new working ECM. Just make sure you buy the right ECM as California and the rest of North America have different modules and slightly different wire harness’s. Match up the part # on your ECM that’s installed right now don’t just go by the year 👌 I would be very hard pressed if I was wrong.
Khayyal K just double check everything just in case you fudged a step then swap an ECM. It’s sucks cause you have to spend money BUT if you tested everything I showed that’s exactly what you’ll have to do. Probably a burnt out transistor inside your ECM. Not fixable by any means just have to replace it.
MotoBike Mike i had battery and rectifier issues prior. My assumption is that the rectifier overcharged the battery (battery was whistling at one point), battery send overcharge to ecm and fried it. Oh well, learnt a lot from your videos and the service manual. Great content, keep it up!
Nice video man... it's cool the step by step, even more whdn yoj have to many things in your head ... thanks
I have a 2001 f4i no 16 pin on my ecu but when I bridge my stop go engine start it switched on my fuel pump and was able to start my bike what could be the problem
Awesome dude! Thanks for taking the time to film and post.
You're more than welcome. I'm just happy to help people get back riding anyway I can.
Hi , my 2006 Honda cbr 1000rr Prime stays on , bike doesn’t start , do u what I have to do, thanks advance
My bas doesn't click when I do the test can I by pass the sensor to test the pump for priming?
My pump only kicks on if I bypass the fuel pump relay. Killswitch will turn the pump on and off if that relay is jumped. Any ideas ? Mines a 03. Ignition diode is bypassed. Tip sensor is bypassed.
I’m having the same issue! Have you figured out the problem?
@@joshpowell9199Any luck? Having the exact same problem too
When I had jumped my wires from the last video with that piece of wire, I had my other relay click is that normal?
If I am thinking correctly yes.
Hi, I have an 04 CBR1000rr and, the FI fuse keeps blowing. Disconnecting the ECU, it doesn't blow. I had this issue about a year ago, changed ECU and it fixed the problem. I have the problem again. Hoping it isn't the ECU again, these are expensive. Last time I checked the bike over, I couldn't find any shorts, so almost clueless why this has happened yet again. Disconnected the regulator / stator. Fuse stays fine. Would appreciate some guidance if you could. I am thinking there is a serious short somewhere. Bike died when I was out for a ride. Battery extremely hot. When I was out for that ride, the battery already stopped charging, so I had to bump start it. After a while it completely died and now this fuse blows :(
I have a 07 zzr600 and I am having a issue wit the fuel pump not priming I put a new one and a new relay I search for a while for the tip sensor to realize that there is not one for this bike so would you know wat to do cause I have been seeing people just manually power there fuel pump by a toggle switch
I am reading .08 on my negative pin 4 and 18... any idea what would cause that or is that ok?
What about if I have 0.33 volts on the white/black?
Where abouts are you in the 3 part video series?. Lots of wires are tested so I can give you a generic answer but I’m not sure what part you’re at. Add the time in the comments of where you’re at in this video. If you’re referring to part 2 of this series than go to that video and comment.
by far one of the best step by step video i seen thanks very helpfull
Thank you I’m happy it was helpful. Ride safe brother
Man I know this an old video but how much voltage should be reading through pin 16 I’m getting low volts(.5) though it but I’m not sure if it should read this or battery voltage
Thank you brother, my bike is turning over but won’t start, you can hear it prime and everything, it an 04 Honda 600rr do you know what it could be? A good person had told me the tip sensor and he really seems to know what he’s talking about. Could that be a reason why my bike is not starting?
No if it was your Bank Angle Sensor which is the tip over sensor your fuel pump wouldn’t prime at all that is one of the symptoms I talk about in this video series to diagnose your fuel pump not priming . It could be many things though if your fuel pump is priming but not turning over. Injectors, spark plugs, fuel line etc. Could even be your battery if it’s not strong enough. Reading 12 volts doesn’t mean anything only way to check if your battery is failing is doing a load test. A bad battery could still read 12 volts.
@@TubeSocksMalone ok thanks a lot man ride safe out there. ❤️💪🏿
@@TubeSocksMalone it turns on over on jumper cables but when off of it it barely has enough power so it cuts off when I try to start it
Safe to say if 20amp inline fuse keeps blowing with ecu plugged in then its fried? 2006 600rr like yours...all same results you got...although im gtting a new starter solnoid coming in since mine was a bit corroded. Could I send you a video to get some idea's off you?
Now what if you don’t hear the relay click when you flip the bank angle sensor?
I’m assuming you’re at the point testng the bank angle sensor and you have checked already to see if the relay is faulty as well so if the relay is good and nothing happens when you are testing the bank angle sensor than that means you probably have a faulty bank angle sensor if you have done the previous steps correctly and be sure don’t skip steps saying to yourself “I know that’s fine” and go one to the next lol
@@TubeSocksMalone I tested them all following your videos. There was damage to the bank angle sensor when I was removing it. I couldn’t seem to get it to bypass with putting a jumper wire between the green and black I believe were the colors tho. Don’t know if that leds it to somewhere else.
I tested my bank angle sensor and when I tested the red/white wire with the green wire, it read close to the battery voltage. Any chance anyone knows what that means? When I tested the white/black wire with the green wire it read close to the battery voltage as well.
IT UPSIDE DOWN OK! THANKS A MILLION YOU THE MAN. BEST. ARTHUR JUAREZ
will this apply to other honda bike like vfr800 you think or completely diff
The idea would be the same but different enough it could create more confusion rather than be helpful
MOTOBIKE MIKE YOU ARE MY HUCKLEBERRY! DUDE SO WHAT HAPPENED I REPLACED MY FRONT COWL FAIRING RESTORED
ALL SAME AND DAMM BIKE CRANKED BUT NO FIRE. RAN INTO YOUR VIEDO AND DAMM WOULDN'T YOU KNOW IT I MOUNTED
BACK THE LEAN BANK UPSIDE DOWN OK! YOU THE MAN THANKS A MILLION ! BEST. ARTHUR JUAREZ
I’m very happy you were able to figure out the issue. Sometimes it’s an easy fix and other times it’s a bitch. Glad it worked out in your case.
i know this an old video but i'll try anyways.
if i get 12 v on both the wires on B.A.S. what next
Hey mate your videos have help me a lot! I have a 2006 CBR 600rr in Timor Leste 🇹🇱 the only one here!! I have a ground problem in the fuel pump relay. When I give ground to the brown and black cable the pump start on. Can you help me please how to solve this problem? Thanks.
Very helpful thanks man!
My bike runs totally fine but i have same fuel gauge error that you have (increasing from middle) ,i checked for shorted circuits and i had one and i fixed it but the error is still there and i don't think that it is the speedometer or the gauge sensor like the service manual mentioning because the error appeared when i changed my fairing and put the mirror wires that was shorted before that it had no error i think i didn't fix the bank angle properly, could it be it causing the error? But if it is the problem i think my bike shouldn't run at all. Anyways i will check it but if you have any other ideas that might be helpful that will be awesome
Omar Hamza yeah if it was the BAS the fuel pump wouldn’t even prime. I have a feeling it could possibly be what measure the fuel inside the tank itself. Maybe a sensor or something. My fuel gauge was all wonky because I had the fuel pump disconnected
Hello friend. First congratulations on your willingness and didactics to teach, you are a teacher. Well, I need to ask a question. While bridging the car's battery, the red injection/oil light flickered and went out. From there I started testing from the service manual. But I'm a layman, and your videos brought the manual to life. I tested the 3 relays, they click and have continuity. I tested the engine relay harness and voltage is coming. I tested the angle sensor harness and voltage is coming. I went to test the module (black connector) and at point 18 it is not showing continuity as you say it should be. Only connector 4 shows values. Another problem is that when I turn the angle sensor it doesn't click the relay. My faith is that the problem is in the wiring of the cut off relay, I don't know very well how to test this wiring. But what intrigues me is the problem at point 18. I'm digging, it seems to me that some grounding must have overheated and ruptured, but I'm not finding it. Can you give me a light from this report?
the zener diode in the ignition switch is often an issue if the fuel pump wont prime.
Only 2003/2004 have them in North America and only Europeon bikes for the rest. North American 2005 and 2006 models don’t have it 🤘 and California have a different wire harness also. So for North America that is never the issue for a 2005/06 model year
No Hiss system for North American models
What I showed in this video is exactly how the service manual shows to diagnose a 2005/06 CBR600RR not just my way but the proper way for North America. Not all 600RR around the world are the same 🤘 that’s what people forget. Harness and ignitions are different for models outside of North America and California has a different harness because they have different and stricter regulations for emissions so they have I believe an evap canister. Also North America, Euopeon and California have completely different ECM’s.
turned out i had put the bank sensor back upside down after fitting new fairings, thanks so much
Ryan McAuley happens more often to people than you think. Happy you located the problem. Shit happens. Have fun.
Thanks for the videos man! You really helped me out
No problem. Enjoy the ride.
This helped so much, you're a lifesaver
I’m very happy that this was able to help you. Ride safe
Good evening everyone, I would need a little help from you, I also have a cbr 600 rr 2005 with a small problem, it's when I start it and it doesn't start, it gets gas, kill switch it is checked, it has no problems, I understood, but why does it start if I push it in a very short distance of 1.5 meters and it starts easily... Thanks a lot for help me ✌️🤝
Hello mate been following these trilogy of videos on the 05 600rr not priming. When I come to bridging the engine relay to check number 16 on the ecu, even though the key is off the fuel pump primes and then I can turn the key and the bike fires up and runs but then the only way I can shut the bike off is to take the bridge out. Any ideas please? I'm pulling my hair out. Great videos by the way. I have subscribed to your channel. Very helpful 👍🏻
how to temporarily bypass the bank angle sensor?
I can make a video of it very shortly. It is fairly simple. The basic quick explanation of how to do it is once you have everything off and you can access your BAS you will see a cable and black connector attached to it with 3 wires. I believe Red, Yellow and Green. All you have to do is basically take an extra piece of wire stick it in and use that small piece of wire to jump the Red wire and green wire. Done. BAS system bypassed and you can remove your headlights for track days or whatever you need to do etc just remember your bike won’t shut off if tipped over now though.
@@TubeSocksMalone thanks, so no need to pull off the BAS? just short out green and red?
sgtjoe2008 correct you just leave it on, no need to pull it off once it’s jumped.
@@TubeSocksMalone my issue was the fuel pump doesnt prime. ive checked these parts: the on-off run switch and wirings ok, installed new fuel pump, engine cut off relay is ok, fuel cut off relay is ok but no supply from ecu, relays tested on and off the bike, did the angle test on the BAS and click method it was ok, bypassed it and still no fuel pump prime, i did jumper method on the fuel pump relay and it worked, traced other wire on this relay leads to the ecu...can i assume now the ecu is at fault?
sgtjoe2008 I want to assume the ECU is pooched as well if what you’re saying is correct. Especially if you have power going to your ECM but it’s not sending any power out as the final culprit for my bike was the ECM and mine is running now. it does sound like you checked everything and if that’s the case your next step is to swap the ECM with a known good one. That is the only way to test an ECM as their is no way to actually test it except sticking one you know works in your bike. If it doesn’t work than you missed something like a possible broken wire in the circuit but it sounds like your ECM at this point
Just saved me hours. Thank you dude 🙌🏻
I’m happy I could help.
This three part vid is the best I've seen and so easy to follow!!
Ive a 2005 and tested the engine relay and got no power so went straight to the BAS. For the easy test no click, and with the multimeter got no power. Bypassed the BAS by jumping it and still nothing. Have got bike to prime when connecting power directly and was able to start bike when i ran a wire directly to battery to ground/earth it but that is not practical and still no hlights/indicators.
Is there a part 4? Or any recommendations?
Understand you're doing this for free so thanks for all the help so far regardless
Johanna Kelly thank you I appreciate it and I hope you can figure out what’s wrong. No part 4 these are all the steps that are in the service manual for troubleshooting the fuel pump not priming I just broke them all down so it’s easier to follow along rather than jumping around in a big service manual and reading wiring diagrams as I know that can easily become overwhelming. Try going through everything from part 1 but don’t skip any steps and see if you notice anything. It’s easy to miss something if you skip a skip thinking it’s fine trust me. If you can eliminate everything without question than it will be easier. Also sounds cliche but double check all the connections to make sure they’re not corroded or damaged. I made sure to test everything and I was 100% certain everything worked that I tested and no damaged wire I have continuity and power where I needed it so I went ahead and could confidently buy a new ECM and my bike runs 👌. Just really have to make sure you test everything in the videos don’t skip anything.
@@TubeSocksMalone thanks man! Went ahead and followed the videos more out of curiosity and got power at b16 and the other tests worked fine.
Have a feeling since I'm getting zero at the engine relay and zero for the tests at the BAS wires its something to do with the red and white wire before it gets to the BAS. Just gotta follow it and search for the break. (And double check all the obvious)
Thanks again so much for your videos and help! Bike would be ignored for another few months without you!
Johanna Kelly anytime I can help I will and hey between us I may or may not have the exact same last name 🤣 no joke.
Where was your broken wire at
dustin davis ended up being ECM. Fixed a loose connection by fluke but it was my ECM causing the problem
Hello Bro. Excellent videos, I checked my bike using your videos, one thing, i found my issue on the zener Diode of the ignition key, it's broke and the ECU was receiving 12v but it need 9v for send the signal at the Fuel pump. Regards
Sorry for the late reply. If your Diode is broken in your ignition then just replace it with this Diode and it should work fine you can order them off Ebay and maybe amazon. the Diode is 1N4730A (3.9V, 1W) it should work fine after if you install it in the right direction if you install the Diode backwards just flip it around and should be fine they only work 1 way.
@@TubeSocksMalone thanks a lot.... Regards.
@@TubeSocksMalone The Fuel pump Is working now, I needed replace the Diode like you mention, but I have another issue, the bike have spark, fuel, but it doesn't works, I added Fuel directly to the trhottels and the motor don't move, do you have a some tip for this issue? Regards
Hey man I think I have your same problem with the zener diode. How do you know if it’s reading 12v in stead of 9vts??
My issue ended up being the fuel pump itself. Replaced that and bike ran good for a while now it sputters and dies at red lights usually in first with the clutch pulled in. After reading around a bit I suspect its the stator so gonna check that and the rectifier. Fixed the issue for someone else on yt with a RR
Anti IV that sucks but at the same time glad you figured out the problem. Better scenario than mine lol my black and white wire has a short so I have to check everything that runs off that wire. Somewhere it is melted or something and snorting out. I hope I can locate exactly where it is or I will have to re wire my bike lol fingers crossed I can locate and replace that part of the wire. I really don’t want to re wire my bike. Not hard but a very tedious task and time consuming.
Got a 2013 crf 250L no fuel pump prime and no spark
Dam bro thank you very much 🤘
Great video!
Its the BANK SENSOR ! Had it installed upside down!
Very happy you figured it out. Seems a lot of people make the exact same mistake 🤘 now get out and ride
Thank you very much Mike your a life saver just realized that I installed my tip sensor wrong and the bike would not start.
Awesome and you’re more than welcome. I’m happy you got it sorted out.
Respect, bro. Thanks!
I cut an twisted mine.
Duuuuud, let me know where you f$king live to buy you a beer, you just saved my life thanks
How can I jump the engine stop relay to the ecm? I have power at the relay but not at the ecm.
boonehouston I have a few questions first. Does the relay work? You have power going to the relay but is the relay working where it’s sending power out?
boonehouston I wouldn’t advise jumping anything directly to the ECM or you could potentially fry the ECM and create more problems.
boonehouston also a one more question. Just so I know. Have you fully watched all 3 parts of this troubleshooting and followed along exactly. Don’t skip any steps. Follow it exactly regardless if you think you know where the problem is. Don’t skip anything you would be surprised.
@@TubeSocksMalone yup I followed everything. I am not getting anything to #16 at my grey connector to the ecm. Everyrhing else works.
@@TubeSocksMalone it might be like yours and the ecm is already fried.
Thank you man
Great video
Thank you 🍻
I have the same problem but I have done everything and still doesn’t prime
Felix Ortiz at some point if you did everything I did you would notice where you don’t have power. Mine does not prime still but it’s because their is a short in my black and white wire. Did you do every test? Have you checked you FI fuse which is the small 20amp fuse run directly off your positive cable on your battery?
Does your fuel pump actually work as well. Did you hook a power source directly up to the fuel pump to see if it works?
Felix Ortiz the 20amp FI fuse is not the main 30 amp fuse that is in the starter relay
If you check every single thing shown in all 3 videos and everything works then you have a short in your wire harness. Either the red and white wire that runs from you battery positive cable to the engine stop relay or the black wire with the white stripe on you engine stop relay if you watched my videos you know exactly what wires I’m talking about. That black and white wire has a bunch of stuff run off it so if you checked everything I showed and everything works then you have a short in the wire and you will need a wire diagram and check every wire that runs off that black and white wire. I am making another video shortly explaining better what I just wrote in this comment. But if you are positive you checked everything then you would notice where you do or don’t have power. Do you have power at the pins of the ECM that I showed to test in one of the videos?
Felix Ortiz another big culprit to many electrical problems is the small yellow box on the left side on the wire harness close to where the subframe attaches to the actual frame of the bike. That yellow plug is notorious for melting and snorting out and screwing all the grounds up.
alright fuck it im going in.
Time: 0:35 I see you mess up on Red&White Wire being negative & Black being Positive 😂. its okay. I know what your talking about.
the reason why my pump wouldnt prime was the 15 amp fuse by the battery
xxxdriftr are you talking about the in-line fuse that comes off the positive cable of the battery or the main fuse off the starter solenoid. Not sure what year yours is but double check the service manual for your year I know 2003-2006 the inline fuse off the positive near the battery should be a mini 20 amp fuse and the main fuse on the starter solenoid is a regular 20 or 30 amp fuse I’d have to double check myself on that one but the mini is a 20 amp Not sure if we are talking about the same fuse but if the one you’re talking about is running off the positive cable then we are.
xxxdriftr mine needed a new ECU 👌
Life saver
Glad it could help
life saver