Finally finished my dream studio setup 😍
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
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You can get a rgb defuse strip to hide each individual light
This
Techsource? 😂
Was thinking about commenting this but glad someone beat me to it.
THIS
I really hope he sees this...
This. Amazon: led strip diffuser. You can add them to existing strips
"Why did you create an insane top of the line setup?"
Bitwit: I needed something to fill the empty space
I swear set up videos/ series like this is some of my favorite content on UA-cam. I love to watch the creative build process in detail and also take inspiration for myself.
Uses G9 just to "Fill up the wall"
Savage
not just a G9, a second Gen G9 Neo review unit, worth 2500, those microledsssssss man!
@@andrewwildman7052 is it really a Neo G9?
@@dyna6448 yea😐
@@andrewwildman7052 Here I am setting here with a basic Samsung Odyssey G9.... Though I doubt the difference is that big between them anyway. At least for my use....
I can’t lie, I’m extremely jealous of your setup...
If anyone is gonna do a dream setup, its someone with closets full of pc parts
Jealous or envious?
@@issdar Haha, both!!
who aint lol
who isnt???
Kyle: Makes error in something
Kyle: D E C O R !
*D E C O R !*
D E C O R !
What is decor
@@Lilcreativeboy decoration
when you buy a 1500 dollar monitor 'just to fill up the space'
That is a 2500$ monitor - the new G9 Neo mini-led. :P
@@gregchapman5435 what? when did that come out
@@ModrunOfficial 2 days ago
@@ModrunOfficial its announced, and there are reviews out there on it but I am not sure when it will go on sale. It's an option above in the Amazon link Kyle posted for the G9.
@@gregchapman5435 he's got the old one
Sweet setup Kyle
thanks
Hi britec
I’m glad Kyle either changed up his editor or the editor cut down on the memes because they were really overused in previous videos but this one he used them well and they weren’t overused.
yeah
Last I checked he was editing the videos himself... So any errors are because he's being too, Lyle, I guess is the word... I don't have any evidence of that, of course, but I know he was looking for an editor according to a video a few months ago... If I remember correctly, wifey- uh, I mean, his ex, did his video editing, but, being his ex now, well, idk much about the situation, aside from one left the other, and Kyle removed her from everything social media of his and whatnot, and I assume that's also why he started editing his own videos... Maybe he got a video editor recently, but if he did, he hasn't actually came out and officially introduced us to him or her yet...
Probably won't get another editor due to, issues?...
The G9 is like my Dream monitor. Cool to see it implemented into your setup.
Superultrawides are just the best.
I have no words either than "that's cool"
question is do you want it ?
Those are words.
@@asimhussain8716 nah you're wrong
When you were putting up those LED's the first thing that popped in my head was Angle Iron. Now you don't have to get iron but you can get aluminum angle and that would probably look good and add the wall that you want. Also, if you don't like the look of the aluminum under there you could always vinyl wrap it.
They make LEDs defuse raceways that go in corners.
I personally use the Muzata Flexible LED channels, and they work well enough for diffusing the visible leds around my setup.
Yes! Aluminum tracking cleans up the ribbon runs, they even make an aluminum u shaped channel that comes with a diffusion for a clean look. Just search for led channel in 8ft lengths at like an LED supply store. Plenty of stuff available in LA.
@@wmcdoogle
This was my first idea too (the right angle, 3/8" (or whatever measure it is for 9-10mm) aluminium ). They are really cheap and widely available from all hardware stores. I bought some for my warn white background lights.
Those channels are also available in a 45°angle.
For future reference, if you're applying any sort of SAV (self-adhesive vinyl) like the concrete film you applied to your studio wall, you can do the following to avoid having that little gap you pointed out - this is assuming you actually apply SAV more than once ever and are interested in signage application techniques (classic stitch-up if you're not - but no stress, haha)
I don't know how any of these metric measurements will convert to imperial so just do whatever seems closest - I still can't believe you guys use that system, haha.
First and foremost - overlap each run of vinyl by 10mm - problem solved pretty much immediately, that saves you the stress and hassle of trying to apply it upwards to meet the bottom of the first run like you were doing here. Unless you're using cast vinyl which retains its physical memory over time when it is heated and stretched (hence why it's used to wrap cars), the vinyl will inevitably shrink over time and that gap will get way worse. Maybe this has already happened as it's been a year.
Second, and as a separate fix if you didn't do the first thing - cut a 10mm strip off the excess you cut off already and apply this over the top of that gap. Not the prettiest fix but if you're installing something in front of it, it is very unlikely to matter.
In terms of tools - you're right about the vinyl applicator. I'd add that you should pretty much always use the foam side - the bare plastic side will get nicks in it over time and you'll get areas that aren't applied properly as a result - all throughout the piece of vinyl, total nightmare especially if it's on a plastered wall.
In terms of trimming to size before you apply and then the order of application - do it the other way round to what you've done here, using that 10mm overlap. Unless you've like heat sealed the overlap, over time it will collect dust / other crap in it and if the overlap is facing upwards (ie: the top vinyl has gone on first), it'll start to fail - apply the bottom run first and overlap it with the top.
When applying the vinyl - if you want to ensure it runs as perfectly straight as possible and works long-term:
1) Wipe every part of the wall that the SAV is going on with wet rag and then a dry one - give it a minute or two so it's proper dry, don't use solvents on paint lol
2) Rip some bits of tape and stick those bits of tape to your shirt / somewhere easy to access
3) Pin (with your hands not pins lol) the film roughly in position
4) Tape one side - just put a bit of tape perpendicular to the edge of the film (so it's horizontal and centred) - aren't you glad you put some bits of tape on your shirt already?
5) Measure both sides, adjust each side to suit your measurements (ie: measure from the top of that desk) - adjust only one side at a time obv. so the whole thing doesn't fall off the wall. It still might if you haven't cleaned the wall or the tape is low-tac / cheap, just persist
6) When it's level, put a huge vertical piece of tape right down the guts of it (called a hinge in signage application)
7) Hold the squeegee (applicator) flush on top of one of the edge pieces of tape, along one edge of the film - so the squeege's edge sits right on the place where the tape on the wall and tape on the SAV meet - grab the film from the top of that corner and give it a quick pull downwards whilst you're holding the tape with the squeegee - now you have a reference mark to keep it straight (assuming the tape has ripped instead of just falling off because it's shit tape, haha)
You have two options next
1) Pull the SAV across to the other side so the face of the vinyl is against the other face (tl;dr - fold it in half against the wall) - take the backing paper on this side off completely - when you've pulled the backing paper off, just pin the adhesive side with your finger. You can lick your finger so it doesn't stick to the SAV (don't like slobber it, just a little to disrupt the adhesive for a sec).
2) Cut the backing paper that you've pulled off with a real sharp knife (so you get a clean cut and don't get heaps of fluffy bits along the cut) and in as straight a line as you can
3) Pull the vinyl back with a fair degree of tension and pin it so that the tape on the SAV and the tape on the wall line up - you want the SAV to look as flat as possible (picture you're smoothing out your doona cover - you can tell when it's not flat because of the ripples right?)
OR - if you're concerned about the SAV sticking to the wall in the wrong spot and never, ever coming off without RIP your wall (as is the case with some high-tac wall films)
1) If you have a snitty (it's a signage tool - get one if you are gonna do this more than once, you can find them online), pull the backing paper back and snit the middle of the backing paper - now it's in two halves. You can also attempt this with a super sharp knife blade - just feed the blade in between the backing paper and the SAV. I wouldn't recommend this if you are not familiar with the technique though as there's a good chance you'll just cut the vinyl by accident in doing so.
2) Now that you've cut the backing paper in two but it's still on the SAV, fold 50mm of the side you've got pinned back against itself - pin the SAV back against the wall with that fold sitting underneath the rest of the backing paper - and then just apply it like you did in the video, the difference being that you're doing it from the middle outwards and the SAV is still pinned against the wall so it stays straight. When the backing paper reaches the tape that is joining the SAV to the wall, snap it again and then just do the rest like you did in the video but holding the SAV close to the wall so you can check the tape marks are still lining up
3) Apply the other half using either of the above two methods for application
If you still don't get it straight after all that (which is easy if you haven't done it heaps of times and even then you can still mess it up) - you can:
1) Use a heat gun to temporarily disrupt the adhesive and pull it back from the wall to try again - pull the film against itself (so face-to-face, as opposed to perpendicular and outwards from the wall towards you - that's rip city for the plaster). Do this at your own risk though, haha. You can also do this to remove it when it's old - there's a much higher chance it'll be a re-plaster / paint or at least a patch job in that instance though.
2) Using a really super sharp knife (you can get laser-cut black blades online from signage shops, OLFA make them - at least in Aus anyway), take a ruler (which is gonna be better than trying to use a level because of the lower depth) and mark a straight line - it's easiest to just put some small measurement marks before this so you know where to put the ruler. Take the ruler again and then, using a very light amount of pressure, trim along / beyond the line (the latter if you want to ensure you don't see the pen marks). Be real careful of your fingers if you use a flat ruler - preferable to use a ruler that has a finger-guard but those are usually a bit pricey and it's probably only worth getting if you wanna do this more than once / regularly. Because the section of vinyl you're cutting off will be small (like 10mm max I'd recommend - which still leaves heaps given how much excess you cut off at the start), it'll have much less chance of damaging the paint and plaster. Still ensure you pull it against itself instead of outwards and towards you.
If you want to remove the film after a while (so not to fix it while applying it as per above suggestion - this is different) and try not to damage the wall, you can try rubbing a solvent like methylated spirits / turps on the face of the vinyl to weaken the adhesive before removal. You can also use a heat-gun. Obviously be mindful about rubbing solvent on it and then using a heatgun on it, however - it's never caught fire in the years I've done signage (yet, haha) but it is a great way to fume yourself out. Otherwise, just pull the vinyl against itself (not towards you and outwards) and repair the patches that it creates - pulling it against itself will help to minimize the damage caused. Change the angle that you're pulling it on if it starts to tear paint / plaster (ie: jiggle it upwards if you're pulling it downwards).
Hopefully that's helpful to you or some rando on the internet, haha
You just wrote a whole essay just about SAV. man, I see your dedication. Good shit
With your studio coming along so nicely, it would be great to see videos with other folks filmed there in the future. Great environment for videos, great job!
Turn the PC sideways and use some cable sleeves to hide the cables
He wants that the PC is easily viewable for the stream too!! XD XD!!
You are one lucky man to have all that sweet sweet tech! The studio looks great!
6:43 is giving me a real throwback to when MS Tech got huge!
true
That last clip with all the lighting was fire. Always pays to stick around til the end.
Neon lights in a recording studio?
You might want to look into that before making any purchases.
Audible noise as well as electrical interference leaching into your signal paths are common pitfalls with neon.
I appreciate the Ambient Gold at the end! One of my favorite chill songs to stream.
"Nothing ever goes wrong in any of my videos" famous last words
Might just be me, but Everytime someone says ''famous last words'' MCR starts playing in my head 🤣
It was a joke
@@colinoscopyyyy8104 um we know
@@OXMStudios Was just listening to that song!
@@stickfee299 You know. “SPYderr” doesn’t.
Its amazing that you can put the wallpaper straight
Buy a diffusion thing for the leds on Amazon it’d probably only cost like $25
I said the same thing lol
Gotta say, the work you've done in this studio, is amazing. Well done and great job.
KYLE! Try using the Govee Glide RGBIC Smart Wall Light's to stop that nasty light strip hot spots there pretty dope < 3.
That is a sick setup dude👍🏾. I need the entire playlist of music from this vid in my life asap.
13:53
Wasn't expecting Papa Muta to make a meme cameo 👌
That’s seriously cool Kyle , kudos man!
Maybe use a LED strip diffuser. Also, ever thought of investing in a laser level
Kyle youre BACK better than ever & were all here to take it in-!! Lovin' this setup since you started, I see lots of subscriber envy in the coming era--LOL
Honestly hook up the G9 setup with some wireless peripherals.
If your going with the picture idea, get them with the metal plates that are magnetic and ez to adjust. For the LED hot spots, try an diffused acrylic block and stick it close to or about 1 in apart from the strip.
Using a $2000 dream monitor to “fill up the space”
Just get a 50€ monitor and be happy with it.
I saw "Odyssey Neo" on the box, which means it is the newest miniLED one. That's 2500 buckaroos if the packaging is labeled correctly.
@@minimum4418 why tho, he will probably use it sometimes and he spent a lot on the setup already, would be weird to just go cheap on the last thing
thank you for continuing to put out new content! my mom passed away yesterday and its been rough, but your videos help me escape for a little while and give me enjoyment..please keep the vids coming, they help people in more than 1 way
INVERTED PC BUILD!!! 🔥 Everything looks amazing!
"Nothing ever goes wrong in any of my videos."
**Sagging shelves and monitor, as well as uneven vinyl wrap has entered the chat**
BEAUTIFUL setup! 💯 If I may recommend, you could get LED channels for the Govee strip(s) and that will disperse the light/eliminate the visible hotspots.
The greatness of early and seeing that sick setup
Hey Kyle, you could get an acrylic diffuser strip that will prevent the direct-bulb action of the RGB. It's light, flexible, and if you happen to mount it crooked, you can gently remove it and re-apply it without damage. They work great when you can't fully hide the strip itself. Also, some brands allow you to choose the transparency level in % of allowed light through as well.
SO good, love that I actually had some input on the setup! LONG LIVE WRKHRS3 lol
well done. your still kicking out some impressive scenarios for designs and stuff. keep it up
Tsk tsk, always wear eye protection even when drilling something as simple as holes for wall shelves and brackets.
Love the super ultra-wide monitor though!
What a wonderfully dope setup. Thanks for sharing with us. Also, excellent choice in DMCA-free audio by StreamBeats during the closing shots. 😍
7:50 I can not physically express how happy that makes me
Your studio looks like the MicroCenter version of what BestBuy’s Magnolia section should look like
High key impressed with that wallpaper application 👍
I am 1 step closer to being like him! I literally am almost done with mine.
@RTX 3090 MSRP No. Real men superstack Voodoo 5s for them FPS gains
Sup bro its mex
Kyle, with the issues your dealing with its nice to see you exicted as a little kid who just got his own big room. Have fun with this project.
"It's just so insanely long that it's hard for me to physically wrap my arms around it and carry it anywhere."
*TWSS*
try pulling your floating shelves out a bit from the wall and mount the LEDS behind them (or on top, the light will flicker down), did that with mine and it looks great.
Not a huge fan of the 60fps with the camera moving around so much.
Get 1/2 white courter round and put it in front of the LED strips. It'll hide it and defuse the light. Also you should get some caulk and put it on the cracks where the shelves meet up. On camera it should make it look like 1 self. Finally consider painting the silver brackets because they stand out like crazy.
As far as for that big crate goes that the monitor was in, get yourself a dolly, the kind that you can convert to a cart if you need to. I have one and I use it for furniture boxes, crates, boxes and everything in between.
And thanks for showing us how that RGB bling looks with the lights off!
I might suggest that if the monitor is tilted down just slightly, that might make it easier to view, depending on how high it is compared to where you're sitting. Sometimes I think my monitor is a bit higher than I want it but not by enough to actually move it. A small tilt downward would be enough. I guess the biggest question is how well does the bracket support the monitor?
Put a piece of trim in front of the led under the shelf. It’ll look cleaner. You can use white caulking to full in the gaps on the shelf
They sell aluminum channel diffusers that would be perfect at diffusing those RGB hotspots under your shelf, you can find them on Amazon.
Such a beautiful setup. It inspired me to go and get a floating desk a shelves for mine 😃
You could try the "Cloud look" for your RGB, where you put white cotton batting over the strips. Looks awesome
you could get some kind of laminate strip that you can put on the front face of the shelf to both hide the imperfections, but also if you get one wide enough you can obscure the ARGBs on the back wall.
If you mill a little groove into that top shelf, you can push the RGB strips in there and you won't have any hotspots on your streaming camera. Otherwise you can just get a little l-strip at a local hardware store and put that in front of the RGBs to "diffuse" them
@Kyle - Put small aluminum angle on the underside of the shelf in front of the leds. Thats will look nice and remove the hotspots.
You could buy a wood or laminate edging strip to put along the front of the shelf. It would probably both help with the overall alignment for that last little bit of sag and also cover over the two seams, small as they are.
If you have the joining brackets on the top of the shelf you can cover them easy and they won’t be seen
Ditch the rgb. Get some neons(neon lightstrips). You have to choose only one color, but, no hot spots. Just lit. you can get some dimmers if they dont already come with it. I have some that are actually usb powered. there are some aftermarket usb dimmers you can get aswell. Works a treat.
Kyle is very crafty, seeing him take measurements and set things up fairly quickly.
Kyle, I'd put a 1x2" (white) wood strip in front of the LED strips on the top shelf to eliminate seeing the LED's directly.
You can just diffuse the leds it looks really good and it will block the hotspots
Pro tip @bitwit always put the cut side of anything against the wall where no one will see it. You always want factory edge to factory edge for the most clean and flush look 😎 Much love my dude 🖤✌
I love your studio builds. I also look forward to some more workhorse video's. They always make me laugh
Turn the side of the computer opposite of the glass towards the wall. You can see it while gaming on that computer and it will be in your stream as well. You'll just need to find a way to hide the cables coming out of the rear of the case. Either go wireless on as much of it as possible, find a fake plant big enough to block a lot of the cables plugged into the computer, and/or just make the cables look super clean coming our of the rear of the case.
rather than a tiny wall to cover the rgb hotspot i would suggest getting a diffusor. they make it into an even dispersed bar of light and looks oh so nice.
I'd honestly watch videos of Kyle just building stuff in general. His montages kinda just show off his know how? Idk it's satisfying watching a fellow handyman
I don't know the proper words to use but what I call them is door jambs or window casing or molding but if you look those up you should come across som nice slim pieces of wood for those hot spots I'd recommend using a simple one and place it just in front of the lights should help in my opinion. Also looks great so far can't wait to see it fully decorated
I feel you on that wall mount man. I love my curved ultra wide but the wall mounts available aren’t great. I’ve just succumbed to the slight tilt towards me lol, love the concrete effect too man. You’re very handy!
For the LED hot spots, you can get a mold at Home Depot and have it cut to the length because they’re like 16-18 feet long and also in white about 1 inch thick, just add adhesive strips and boom, done. Would cost maybe 4-6 bucks
Another way to do the marks for the brackets on the bottom of the shelves is to put a piece of masking tape on the bracket, poke the holes, then just put the tape where you want the bracket. Easier than trying to hold the bracket still while making marks at what is probably an awkward angle.
This looks absolutely amazing!!!
The neon signs would be dope.
Quarter round trim would work great for covering the leds under the shelf, cheap and super easy
Door jamb seals that match the shelf could work. They come in strips long enough for complete doors. That would be enough for that length.
For your led strips you should get a V-Shaped Aluminum LED Channel System. All you have to do is put the led strips into the thing and when you mount it, you won't see the hotspots and it just looks neater!!!
A frosted plastic strip, inch wide maybe, could diffuse the RGB strip to hide the hot spots. or maybe plastic wall corner protectors in white. Since they are ‘L’ shaped you could mount them on the underside to hang down and hhide the RGB hot spots. idk, just some thoughts
Try some of the plastic/wood trim to help cover the LEDs. could probably glue it or use dbl sided addhesive to hold it up.
1. Rotate the streaming PC 90 degrees, so the front faces the streaming monitor... You can then see it from your stream position, and you can see the side window from both rigs?
2. Defuse your LEDs by fitting some of that cable channel you like, but in white... doubles up as a handy cable tray for anything you might need to get from one end to the other?
Nice setup and neatly done. Just one thing about the video is the speech volume timelapse music balance is way off. Music seems really loud.
You could buy led strip light diffusing covers/strips that basically clip over the strip. Can even get them on amazon! It's like an opaque plastic that diffuses the light therefore getting rid of the hotspots as you call them
That tower placement reminds me of those left handed/inverted cases, I'm considering one since I'm also going to place my tower on the left
Yo Kyle, it's possible to take a few strips of a crown molding of your choice, put it in front of the LED strips, so you'll still get the under-glow, but no hot spots, unless you're unreasonably low down.
Put a defused on the leds it like a thin semitransparent piece of acrylic and it really helps
If I ever can do like a full gameroom setup or custom pc build not built by me I absolutely would want Kyle to do it for me. Love your ideas and choices with builds and setups.
Kyle, you should place a white vertical panel to the right of the G9 to serve as a zone break between your gaming area and the workshop.
As wall dekoration you can use Displates, those are really nice
Could use a long, thin strip of diffusion material for the leds, that would look pretty cool and appear really clever
Kyle go find some of those clear diffuser strips to hide away that RGB glow will make it look great!!!
You should’ve waited for the Odyssey *Neo* G9 which features a mini LED backlight. Definitely would have been a really nice display, but the standard one is good too.
Kyle instead of a wall to hide to LED hotspots, just buy/build a diffuser to mount directly under the shelf and it will diffuse the lighting even better than it is already ♥️
I do have the Odyssey G9 mounted on Arctis W1C - it's the Same thing as you got there, i had to tighten the Tilt-Piece several times until it didn't move anymore.
Because of the weight you have to tilt it a bit higher so it compensates.
Unfortunatly the Odyssey Neo G9 releases within the next 2 Weeks and i want to get that one... But the price went up - 2.299€
For everyone interested in the G9, if you use the 240 Hz 10Bit mode, you loose a lot of possible Resolutions in Fullscreen mode, there is very slim support for older Titles and / or newer titles without tinkering around and getting some code to run to Stretch and Fit most Games without issues.
I do not know if the Issue is fixed witht he Neo G9, but just as a remindert, consider it first.
Otherwise the Monitor is a Beast, i love it using it for around 12 months now until i retire it for the Neo G9.
It looks good. Don't overdo it. Thanks for sharing all the nitty gritty details.
Get some frosted tube and cut it into fourths and mount it to the bottom of the shelf and the wall and it will defuse the hot sports and give it a great look.
I just used corner moulding to hide my led strips and it worked awesome. It’s cheap 5 dollars for 8ft but if you use it you should try and stick the strip to the mounding it will have beautiful clean lines.