Several years ago, I too needed a way to get segmented rings flat so I made a drum sander similar to this one, also started with a PVC drum, and had similar problems. The biggest one was that the drum had a small high spot that would take a bigger bite, get hot locally, swell a little, take a bigger bite, get hotter....... A factory locally makes hydraulic cylinders and scraps cutoffs, excess inventory, etc that made a wonderful drum.
Hello I have a SS which I really like. I am very interested in the thickness sander you made. Would you please go into depth a little more on the roller and how your “wedge” design in attaching the sand paper(s). Lou Slover
Don’t hate the idea to use pvc but... I’ve extruded no less than a jillion feet of 1/2” to 36” dia pvc pipe and would say that it may look round but that the allowances for roundness are not what you’d assume and must be taken into account if making a drum sander roller with any precision. Saying that!... if you want to add stiffeners (internal discs) of your choice at a logical interval, true it up on the lathe and never overheat it during use it’ll probably serve you just fine. You’re killing it with these videos Scott! You’re a one man Craigslist Shopsmith value increaser!!!!! One man can make a difference.
Recently subscribed to your channel. I have owned my shopsmith ('57) for over 20 years and now understand that I have not been using it correctly. The table saw function was madding. Now, I'm better at setting it up. Thanks for your help. (In Alaska where I'm a bit isolated so your channel is priceless.)
I originally thought I would use PVC but I like the idea of plywood for one important reason: when I'm done with it, it can return to the earth by decomposing or fire.
Hi Scott and great video ... I am definitely interested in the homemade Shopsmith Thickness Sander. Looking forward to purchasing plans and making one of my own. Thanks again for bringing this to our attention.
When I purchased my MK5 in 1984 it came with R.J. De Cristoforo's book. Quickly I found his plans for a drum sander. Being a complete novice, I didn't realize that I lacked the skill to make it......so I did it anyway! My result was a cylinder of oak that was accurate to 5 thousands over the entire length, and it worked perfectly. It in fact created so much dust in my wife's laundry area that she, in desperation, purchased a DC 3300 dust collector as a Christmas present for me. Maybe it was just as much for her as well. I have not made a box to enclose the drum, but remember seeing a plan somewhere (Nick Engler perhaps?)
Nice! That's some amazing accuracy for wood. Yes, after I posted my video several people directed me to Nick's "Sanding" book, which is a part of his Workshop Companion series, and in it he builds a similar sander. You are right about dust collectors being as much for our household are they are for us, and in reality that is true of most of our tools. Scott
Scott thank you as I enjoyed your update information!! Sure I would pay for the plans because they would save me time to construct. I am still wondering if you used regular sheets of sandpaper etc. Thank you for the follow too! I ENJOY your information and delivery.
Hurray! Wonderful explanation of how your sander works. You show enough detail images that just maybe I'll be able to put one together before your plan is available. What do you find is the thickest piece you can do on this? Thanks for the wonderful education you're providing here.
Happy to hear it. I would have the say that the drum is the trickiest part. It needs to be right for the entire thing to work. There's lots of design flexibility here, and in the end you can always use it over the MKV's table. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Yes with the drums. I tried using PVC ones I made for a previous attempt at this. Couldn't get the faceplate centered sufficiently and it didn't run true enough. Now trying your plywood glueups but puzzled how to turn it to uniform size. ALSO. What? over the table? I can't get my table under the lathe center. What you talking about?
@@hfmann1 My memory has faded on this a bit, so I may have been trueing my drum over the lathe duplicator table. Turning it close to size you should be able to sand it smooth by passing a board with sandpaper glued to it that is passed under the from through the sander. That will true the drum to the sander.
Hi Scott I am at a point in my life where I need to build the set up you have for sanding. I believe you said that you where thinking about makeing some plans or blue permits for this did you have time. Sorry for my spelling I have had a hard time with this since I was boarn thanks Joseph
Hey Joseph. Yes, I was working on plans and had actually paid someone to do some drawings, but that didn’t work out well so it has been sidelined. I’ll get back to it eventually. Scott
How important is the diameter of the drum? I have a 2 1/2" steel roller from treadmill That has a ball bearing that the live center will fit inside. I have made an adaptor to fit to the drum with a 5/8" bore. It is perfectly round and centered and will give me a pretty good flatness.
It was important to me because of the way I was attaching the sandpaper. I need it to be that diameter in order to use 8 1/2 x 11 sheets. If you plan on spiral wrapping your abrasive then the dia. really doesn’t matter..
ok Scott. Looking at all the different angles you show in the video, I think I've got it figured out enough to build this EXCEPT . . I can't figure out what you are pivoting the front of the bed on. How are you doing that? Now that I've seen your invention, I've got to make one right away. Too cool. Thanks.
@@louslover3634 I have never explored the topic, but it is certainly possible. It all depends upon what you are desiring to turn. If you want to turn, cylindrical, or tapered legs, or something like the drum on the sander, it would be fairly easy to accomplish.
Thanks. I was hoping they would be long done by now but I ran into a few hiccups. Just subscribe to the channel and keep an eye out and I’m sure I will make several announcements once they are good to go. Scott
Kinda off the subject but did you make your bracelet it looks really nice. Seems really similar to the way your oval boxes are made from what I could tell. Anyway was curious if you did how it was made . I love things like that. Love all your content . I'm a new shop Smith owner. Learning tons from you. Thanks so much for all your teaching.
Hey Robert. I appreciate your kind words. Yes, it was made for me by my now deceased older sister, who was a silversmith. She asked me repeatedly if there was anything I would like for her to make me, and I kept saying that I am really not into jewelry. After a while though, I got the idea to have her make me a cuff in the style of a Shaker box. I sent her one of my templates and several of my copper tacs and she did a wonderful job. Thanks for noticing. Scott
Do you have plans for your drum sander available? I use a 12” sanding disk and hold on to the arbor - sanding laminated panels to glue the panels into one making bowls. I’ve gotta get a drum sander that’ll sand 6” material.👌 Sheesh - about to wear me out!
I can’t believe I’ll even to say this, but no, not yet. I paid someone to draw it up for me and sketcher and they did such a horrible job in cost me so much that I lost my interest in the project! I’m confident it will happen eventually. Scott
Answering service just called.back. I told we weren’t worried but wanted to make sure there was nothing that couldn’t wait till tomorrow. She said she would keep trying. I’m fine waiting. Go ahead and get some sleep.
I know I am askig a lot of questions but I am getting things ready for the build. the rod that goes under the table to establish the thinkness is what diameter and how long. Then sand paper is standard side which if great. Wondering are you placing both sheets in the 8 1/2 or 11 position? The wedge retaining sandpaper is 45 deg? and how deep? I am thinking the wedge will be lower to keep the thump thump away. Does the table pivot on a screw on both sides. Wondering also how you designed it to be able to get 3/4 stock? Thanks I really enjoy your video and expertise
Tom, the threaded rod needs to be as wide as your sander's body, plus a washer on each side, a nut on one end and a know on the other to lock it. This may vary depending upon the size you choose to build and your material, so I would cut it to size after mounting it on your sander. I used 1/4-20 rod, but it could be larger if you like. Yes, because the drum is 3 1/4" in diameter the sandpaper sheets will only wrap abound lengthwise. The wedge size isn't critical, but mine appears to be about 1' wide at the top and about 1/2" deep. It's a 45 degree cut. Yes, the table pivots on two wood screws. I need to drop the table down when I get home and get a max capacity measurement. I'll report back. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you Scott, I will hold off with questions. I just want to make sure the plans will contain all the information I need. Your correct by sanding the drum with sand paper parallel with the table!! Love all your info and presentation. I have mentioned several clients about your room.!!!!
Glad to hear it! I don’t bother with a manifold because I am only using 1/2 of the drum at a time, so I just connect the hose to the port that’s over the side I’m using. I suppose it could be made with a single port on one end, but you’ve have to taper the top like the dust chute on a portable planer.
Thanks for answering my question about the size of the cylinder. I hope you will answer this question on here because I'm doing this this morning. The slot...on my Shopsmith I will tilt the table 45 degrees but I always have a problem finding the center of a board when I cut a 45 angle (i.e. my French cleat) . Can you give me some wisdom on how to get the center of this blank and how deep I would cut it?
Sure thing. Keep in mind that you make that cut when the cylinder is square prior to turning but after all the layers are glued together. Normally I measure and mark on the end of the piece where the cut is planned. That way not only can I get confirmation of where I intend to make the cut, but I can use that mark to help me position the fence. Once the fence is close to the correct position I lock it down and make my final adjustments with the quill. From there I always find it easiest to make a trial cut in scrap that it cut to the exact same width, just tom make sure that I have everything set correctly. You can also have the pieces cut a little oversize in length and check your cut by beginning the cut and backing out of the blade and confirming that everything is correct. Keep in mind that you make one pass with one side of the block against the fence, and then you flip it over and make the second cut with the opposite side of the block against the fence, so it's important that there's no globs of glue squeezed out from the glue-up that might cause issues. Hope all that makes sense! Scott
This is an interesting idea. Thickness planer on the cheap? I’ve looked at planers at local hardware stores. They sell for a fraction of the Shopsmith planer’s cost. Is there something special about the Shopsmith version that accounts for the price? Would you buy Shopsmith, or would Dewalt or others serve just as well?
Hey Jeffrey. I actually prefer the finish I get from a portable planer of that produced by the Shopsmith planer. The Shopsmith planer is the right choice if you do a lot or stock prep from rough lumber, but since I usually buy wood that is S2S to begin with and am mostly just taking it down to final thickness, I think the portable planers have the edge. I have this DeWalt planer and love it! amzn.to/37JF1Lm
@@MyGrowthRings Let me see if I got this right? On already surfaced lumber, the portable planer does a better job of bringing the wood to final thickness than the SS planer. But the shopsmith planer does a better job of putting a finish on unfinished lumber? I assume they both work the same way, and with a similar range of speeds?
@@jeffreylopez5403 Close. A portable planer is really better described as a surface planer. If you have 1/4” to remove it’s slow going. The SS planer is a thickness planer and will hog away lots of wood, but the finish left by a portable planer that is used primarily for surfacing will leave a nicer surface. Scott
I have the opportunity to buy a Shopsmith V for $100.00 all’s it has it the table for the the table-saw and the ability to turn with full set of the Shopsmith chisels for turning. Is it worth the money?
Scott, Is there an optimum size sanding drum for this build?? I have mine started mocking up, and decided to use the turning tool stand as the thickness sander adjustment, tagged you on instagram , with a picture of it. Should be done this week, hardware store run first!
The size I mad was optimized for using sheets of sandpaper. If you plan on spiral wrapping yours then it can be almost any size, but if anything go larger to increase the size of the abrasive surface. Scott
Great question! I usually run it anywhere from 700 (slow) up to about 1500. The depth of cut, the grit and the rpms all effect the feel as you push it through, and because heat destroys abrasives, for the most part there’s no real advantage to a higher rpm.
Not really. My issue with them as with any belt sander is that while you can get a smooth finish it's impossible to get the surface parallel to the opposing face of the board, and therefore a consistent thickness, which is what I was trying to accomplish. Not unlike the difference between jointing and planning. Scott
I don't think we know how well the Sand-Flee sold. It was made by R.J.R. Studios, who invented it and sold it in several iterations, including the small version that mounted to Mark V. They sold it directly and Shopsmith also offered it. There have been a number of products like that over the years.
Several years ago, I too needed a way to get segmented rings flat so I made a drum sander similar to this one, also started with a PVC drum, and had similar problems. The biggest one was that the drum had a small high spot that would take a bigger bite, get hot locally, swell a little, take a bigger bite, get hotter....... A factory locally makes hydraulic cylinders and scraps cutoffs, excess inventory, etc that made a wonderful drum.
Nice!
Hello
I have a SS which I really like. I am very interested in the thickness sander you made. Would you please go into depth a little more on the roller and how your “wedge” design in attaching the sand paper(s).
Lou Slover
Great idea!! I'll be watching the channel for any news.
I very much like your straightforward honest approach.....clear, thoughtful and informative
Thanks for your kind words. Scott
Don’t hate the idea to use pvc but... I’ve extruded no less than a jillion feet of 1/2” to 36” dia pvc pipe and would say that it may look round but that the allowances for roundness are not what you’d assume and must be taken into account if making a drum sander roller with any precision. Saying that!... if you want to add stiffeners (internal discs) of your choice at a logical interval, true it up on the lathe and never overheat it during use it’ll probably serve you just fine.
You’re killing it with these videos Scott! You’re a one man Craigslist Shopsmith value increaser!!!!!
One man can make a difference.
There may be something to that at some point. Might want to buy all you can before the values soar!
Recently subscribed to your channel. I have owned my shopsmith ('57) for over 20 years and now understand that I have not been using it correctly. The table saw function was madding. Now, I'm better at setting it up. Thanks for your help. (In Alaska where I'm a bit isolated so your channel is priceless.)
Happy to help! Thanks for watching and subscribing. Scott
I originally thought I would use PVC but I like the idea of plywood for one important reason: when I'm done with it, it can return to the earth by decomposing or fire.
Very good point. Of course, PVC burns too...
THANKS SCOOT !! THIS IS DEFINATELY IN ONE OF MY FUTURE BUILDS !!
You can do it!
Hi Scott and great video ... I am definitely interested in the homemade Shopsmith Thickness Sander. Looking forward to purchasing plans and making one of my own. Thanks again for bringing this to our attention.
Excellent. I'm working on it. Scott
very informative video, thank you for sharing
Nice job on the sander, noticed the pipe tamp also. Two good ideas
I got tired of losing Czech tool tampers and have been using a golf tee as a tamper for years and they just work.
Great video. I am looking forward to building the thickness sander. I'm new to your channel. So glad to have found it.
It's great to have you here. Scott
When I purchased my MK5 in 1984 it came with R.J. De Cristoforo's book. Quickly I found his plans for a drum sander. Being a complete novice, I didn't realize that I lacked the skill to make it......so I did it anyway! My result was a cylinder of oak that was accurate to 5 thousands over the entire length, and it worked perfectly. It in fact created so much dust in my wife's laundry area that she, in desperation, purchased a DC 3300 dust collector as a Christmas present for me. Maybe it was just as much for her as well. I have not made a box to enclose the drum, but remember seeing a plan somewhere (Nick Engler perhaps?)
Nice! That's some amazing accuracy for wood. Yes, after I posted my video several people directed me to Nick's "Sanding" book, which is a part of his Workshop Companion series, and in it he builds a similar sander. You are right about dust collectors being as much for our household are they are for us, and in reality that is true of most of our tools. Scott
Fantastic video.
Thanks, Joe!
Scott thank you as I enjoyed your update information!! Sure I would pay for the plans because they would save me time to construct. I am still wondering if you used regular sheets of sandpaper etc. Thank you for the follow too! I ENJOY your information and delivery.
@@alisfair Yes, it uses standard 9" X 11" sheets of sandpaper. Scott
Thanks for the ApplePly recommendation. It looks like I have a supplier nearby.
Excellent. You’ll love it. Scott
Are you ever going to make the plans for the drum sander available ?
Ever? Probably. Any time soon? Probably not. I’ve had issues with the process and just haven’t made it a priority. Sorry to leave you hanging. Scott
Hurray! Wonderful explanation of how your sander works. You show enough detail images that just maybe I'll be able to put one together before your plan is available. What do you find is the thickest piece you can do on this? Thanks for the wonderful education you're providing here.
Happy to hear it. I would have the say that the drum is the trickiest part. It needs to be right for the entire thing to work. There's lots of design flexibility here, and in the end you can always use it over the MKV's table. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Yes with the drums. I tried using PVC ones I made for a previous attempt at this. Couldn't get the faceplate centered sufficiently and it didn't run true enough. Now trying your plywood glueups but puzzled how to turn it to uniform size. ALSO. What? over the table? I can't get my table under the lathe center. What you talking about?
@@hfmann1 My memory has faded on this a bit, so I may have been trueing my drum over the lathe duplicator table. Turning it close to size you should be able to sand it smooth by passing a board with sandpaper glued to it that is passed under the from through the sander. That will true the drum to the sander.
@@MyGrowthRings ah that makes sense. thanks.
Hi Scott I am at a point in my life where I need to build the set up you have for sanding. I believe you said that you where thinking about makeing some plans or blue permits for this did you have time. Sorry for my spelling I have had a hard time with this since I was boarn thanks Joseph
Hey Joseph. Yes, I was working on plans and had actually paid someone to do some drawings, but that didn’t work out well so it has been sidelined. I’ll get back to it eventually. Scott
Scott, did. you ever do the plans for the drum/thickness sander?
No, they re still unfinished.
Thank you, Scott! I’d love the plans when available.
I hope to have them eventually and will be sure to make an obvious announcement. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I would like them also RussD
@@russdarrow9470 Ok, I’ll let you know when they are available.
How important is the diameter of the drum? I have a 2 1/2" steel roller from treadmill That has a ball bearing that the live center will fit inside. I have made an adaptor to fit to the drum with a 5/8" bore. It is perfectly round and centered and will give me a pretty good flatness.
It was important to me because of the way I was attaching the sandpaper. I need it to be that diameter in order to use 8 1/2 x 11 sheets. If you plan on spiral wrapping your abrasive then the dia. really doesn’t matter..
ok Scott. Looking at all the different angles you show in the video, I think I've got it figured out enough to build this EXCEPT . . I can't figure out what you are pivoting the front of the bed on. How are you doing that? Now that I've seen your invention, I've got to make one right away. Too cool. Thanks.
The table pivots on two long wood screws, one driven in from each side and set into cup washers.
@@MyGrowthRings Great! Much thanks.
Yea!!! Plans!!!
I like your attitude!
Scott
Is there a diy duplicator in the works?
@@louslover3634 I have never explored the topic, but it is certainly possible. It all depends upon what you are desiring to turn. If you want to turn, cylindrical, or tapered legs, or something like the drum on the sander, it would be fairly easy to accomplish.
Nice thickness sander! I had no idea that the Shopsmith had this capability. How will we learn about the plans when they are available?
Thanks. I was hoping they would be long done by now but I ran into a few hiccups. Just subscribe to the channel and keep an eye out and I’m sure I will make several announcements once they are good to go. Scott
Did you ever get the plans set up for sale? Would love to make one of these. . .
No, I was never successful at getting them finished
Hi Scott,
I’d like to revisit this. For purposes of constructing shaker boxes, could we use the belt sanders we likely already own?
Kinda off the subject but did you make your bracelet it looks really nice. Seems really similar to the way your oval boxes are made from what I could tell. Anyway was curious if you did how it was made . I love things like that. Love all your content . I'm a new shop Smith owner. Learning tons from you. Thanks so much for all your teaching.
Hey Robert. I appreciate your kind words. Yes, it was made for me by my now deceased older sister, who was a silversmith. She asked me repeatedly if there was anything I would like for her to make me, and I kept saying that I am really not into jewelry. After a while though, I got the idea to have her make me a cuff in the style of a Shaker box. I sent her one of my templates and several of my copper tacs and she did a wonderful job. Thanks for noticing. Scott
Do you have plans for your drum sander available?
I use a 12” sanding disk and hold on to the arbor - sanding laminated panels to glue the panels into one making bowls.
I’ve gotta get a drum sander that’ll sand 6” material.👌
Sheesh - about to wear me out!
Not yet, John.
Need the plans for the thickness sander.
Were plans ever made available?
I can’t believe I’ll even to say this, but no, not yet. I paid someone to draw it up for me and sketcher and they did such a horrible job in cost me so much that I lost my interest in the project! I’m confident it will happen eventually. Scott
Answering service just called.back. I told we weren’t worried but wanted to make sure there was nothing that couldn’t wait till tomorrow. She said she would keep trying. I’m fine waiting. Go ahead and get some sleep.
Huh?
Please ignore the previous comment. It was meant to be a text to someone else.
Got ya! Ya gotta love technology!
Did you ever get plans for that thickness sander done? I know you said you were thinking about having somebody play with sketch up and let us buy it.
No, that didn't go well. I paid a guy to sketch it and it could have been done better by one of my grandkids.
I’ve searched your website and can’t find drawings or plans for the thickness sander. Are they available, yet?
No, I’m still dragging my feet for some reason.
Between your job and new house, have you ever had time to draw up these plans?
Still actively working on them.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks and Happy 4th of July!!!
I know I am askig a lot of questions but I am getting things ready for the build. the rod that goes under the table to establish the thinkness is what diameter and how long. Then sand paper is standard side which if great. Wondering are you placing both sheets in the 8 1/2 or 11 position? The wedge retaining sandpaper is 45 deg? and how deep? I am thinking the wedge will be lower to keep the thump thump away. Does the table pivot on a screw on both sides. Wondering also how you designed it to be able to get 3/4 stock? Thanks I really enjoy your video and expertise
Tom, the threaded rod needs to be as wide as your sander's body, plus a washer on each side, a nut on one end and a know on the other to lock it. This may vary depending upon the size you choose to build and your material, so I would cut it to size after mounting it on your sander. I used 1/4-20 rod, but it could be larger if you like. Yes, because the drum is 3 1/4" in diameter the sandpaper sheets will only wrap abound lengthwise. The wedge size isn't critical, but mine appears to be about 1' wide at the top and about 1/2" deep. It's a 45 degree cut. Yes, the table pivots on two wood screws. I need to drop the table down when I get home and get a max capacity measurement. I'll report back. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you Scott, I will hold off with questions. I just want to make sure the plans will contain all the information I need. Your correct by sanding the drum with sand paper parallel with the table!! Love all your info and presentation. I have mentioned several clients about your room.!!!!
@@alisfair Thanks for sharing and yes, I plan to be as thorough as I can be. Scott
This is great. How accurate is it? How good is the dust collection?
Depends on what you mean. It sands more accurately than I was able able to do with a hand plane and a sander. The dust collection is excellent. Scott
You rock Scott. Built it and it works great. Now trying to figure out how to build a manifold to connect those dust collection ports. How you do that?
Glad to hear it! I don’t bother with a manifold because I am only using 1/2 of the drum at a time, so I just connect the hose to the port that’s over the side I’m using. I suppose it could be made with a single port on one end, but you’ve have to taper the top like the dust chute on a portable planer.
Thanks for answering my question about the size of the cylinder. I hope you will answer this question on here because I'm doing this this morning. The slot...on my Shopsmith I will tilt the table 45 degrees but I always have a problem finding the center of a board when I cut a 45 angle (i.e. my French cleat) . Can you give me some wisdom on how to get the center of this blank and how deep I would cut it?
Sure thing. Keep in mind that you make that cut when the cylinder is square prior to turning but after all the layers are glued together. Normally I measure and mark on the end of the piece where the cut is planned. That way not only can I get confirmation of where I intend to make the cut, but I can use that mark to help me position the fence. Once the fence is close to the correct position I lock it down and make my final adjustments with the quill. From there I always find it easiest to make a trial cut in scrap that it cut to the exact same width, just tom make sure that I have everything set correctly. You can also have the pieces cut a little oversize in length and check your cut by beginning the cut and backing out of the blade and confirming that everything is correct. Keep in mind that you make one pass with one side of the block against the fence, and then you flip it over and make the second cut with the opposite side of the block against the fence, so it's important that there's no globs of glue squeezed out from the glue-up that might cause issues. Hope all that makes sense! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks. We'll see how this goes :)
@@brucerodtnick You’ve got this!
This is an interesting idea. Thickness planer on the cheap? I’ve looked at planers at local hardware stores. They sell for a fraction of the Shopsmith planer’s cost. Is there something special about the Shopsmith version that accounts for the price? Would you buy Shopsmith, or would Dewalt or others serve just as well?
Hey Jeffrey. I actually prefer the finish I get from a portable planer of that produced by the Shopsmith planer. The Shopsmith planer is the right choice if you do a lot or stock prep from rough lumber, but since I usually buy wood that is S2S to begin with and am mostly just taking it down to final thickness, I think the portable planers have the edge. I have this DeWalt planer and love it! amzn.to/37JF1Lm
@@MyGrowthRings Let me see if I got this right? On already surfaced lumber, the portable planer does a better job of bringing the wood to final thickness than the SS planer. But the shopsmith planer does a better job of putting a finish on unfinished lumber? I assume they both work the same way, and with a similar range of speeds?
@@jeffreylopez5403 Close. A portable planer is really better described as a surface planer. If you have 1/4” to remove it’s slow going. The SS planer is a thickness planer and will hog away lots of wood, but the finish left by a portable planer that is used primarily for surfacing will leave a nicer surface. Scott
I have the opportunity to buy a Shopsmith V for $100.00 all’s it has it the table for the the table-saw and the ability to turn with full set of the Shopsmith chisels for turning.
Is it worth the money?
Absolutely!
Scott, Is there an optimum size sanding drum for this build?? I have mine started mocking up, and decided to use the turning tool stand as the thickness sander adjustment, tagged you on instagram , with a picture of it. Should be done this week, hardware store run first!
The size I mad was optimized for using sheets of sandpaper. If you plan on spiral wrapping yours then it can be almost any size, but if anything go larger to increase the size of the abrasive surface. Scott
What rpm do you generally use when thickness sanding? Does that change with different grits?
Great question! I usually run it anywhere from 700 (slow) up to about 1500. The depth of cut, the grit and the rpms all effect the feel as you push it through, and because heat destroys abrasives, for the most part there’s no real advantage to a higher rpm.
@@MyGrowthRings thanks Scott.
There is a learning curve. Oh well.
True, but you'd think he would have been over that curve before offering his services online.
@@MyGrowthRings He probably had to generate revenue to justify to his wife why he spent big money on a new computer. LOL
@@daveschmitt6369 I wouldn't doubt it.
What do you think about Doug Reid?
In what respect? He's a sharp guy who knows a ton about Shopsmith and Shopsmith tools. What else is there?
I have a V-drum sander (similar to the SS Sand Flee) that mounts on my 10ER. Have you any thoughts on that style vs the thickness sander.
Not really. My issue with them as with any belt sander is that while you can get a smooth finish it's impossible to get the surface parallel to the opposing face of the board, and therefore a consistent thickness, which is what I was trying to accomplish. Not unlike the difference between jointing and planning. Scott
Ah, the Sand Flee... A Shopsmith product that just didn't do well in sales.
I don't think we know how well the Sand-Flee sold. It was made by R.J.R. Studios, who invented it and sold it in several iterations, including the small version that mounted to Mark V. They sold it directly and Shopsmith also offered it. There have been a number of products like that over the years.
Here’s one built with 4” ABS pipe.
www.lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/26701
Darn it, UA-cam tossed your message into the spam folder. Yes, that appears to be a good one. Nice, thick tubing. Scott