Small note. On drilling W/C's Reindeer, I still noticed a tiny bit of play even snugged up against the end table. Placing tubes inside and on both sides made it all rock solid. I had not thought of the end table until you said it, I was trying legs...the end table was easier, thanks, K
When joining a side grain piece to an end grain piece, it would be better to bore the end grain first due to drill bit drift caused by denser growth rings. That way, you can correct for the drift when boring the side grain. I've owned a Shopsmith Mark V since 1979 and have learned a lot of tips, tricks and work-arounds for some of its unusual features, but I am still able to learn some new things from this channel having just discovered it about a month ago.
Scott, Great video. I just subscribed to your channel. Your maintenance video caught my eye. I just retired and want to get back into woodworking and turning. I have a Shopsmith that I bought in 1986 and it's been stored for the last 20 or more years and want to get it in ready for use again. Another way to align the holes for horizonal boring is to use a square and draw perpendicular lines across both of the boards where you want the dowels at. That way you don't have to deal with the dowel centers. Praying that your daughter and her husband don't get Covid.
Welcome back to the hobby and to the channel. Yes, drawing lines like you describe can work, just as long as the bit doesn’t wander. Shouldn’t be an issue with chard brad point bits, as I always make sure to use. Thanks for jumping into the conversation! Scott
great idea to use the end table as a brace. I might also put some of the round tubes through the tubes on the 510 table and tighten the knurled nobs down, that should stabilize them additionally. You could also use the feather board to hold down the board as you drill it. I use horizontal boring to bore the holes for pens before I turn them. It's faster and easier than lifting it up and using the SS as a drill press.
Please do an alignment video! My 510 tables system is in pieces while I've been de-rusting and buffing the tubes back up. Also been wet-sanding the tops and re-waxing using your wax video.
Hey Scott. You've mentioned showing us your 'best' accessory shelf since you have a few. Interested to see what your shelf holds. I noticed that you put your miter guage on it and retrieved your 3/8 drill bit & chuck from it in this video. My collection of Shopsmith accessories continues to grow. I'd like to build a shelf that makes sense even if I don't have all the bits to fill it (yet).
Yes, alignment from start to finish. I have the upgraded 5 to a 720. The only thing I did not do is buy the new digital head stock, just did not think I needed it.I am now a faithful sub. //ji. John in Oregon
@@MyGrowthRings Typo Sorry......the 500 upgrades to the 510 and then with the digital power head to a 520 (not 720) Major upgrade for me was the 510 w/ new bigger fence and tables. Keep these videos going. We are all digging out our shopsmiths now to get realigned. Thanks //ji Johnin Oregon
Dowel center are better used for items that don’t fit into a drill press or boring machine. It’s much easier/accurate to just use stop blocks per paired holes being drilled. Drill 1a and 1b first, then move stop block, 2a and 2b, etc. If you find you can’t use the fence for end grain or longer pieces just use a t-track or some variation clamp to put a straight edge fence parallel to the chuck.
I hope so too. Yeah, editing is always the most time consuming part of the process and I knew I wouldn't have time to do it. I'm sure I missed something. Scott
Scott love your channel! If possible could you do a video on the basic five tools that come with the shop smith ? I would buy them in a second! You could progress to moderate then advanced. Would love to see you get rich!
OMG Scott! I was just in Harbor Freight looking for a threading tool and saw the Doweling Accessory set and wondered how to use it! Wow! Is this a coincidence or just the Aristocob magic at work? Alex
I noticed that when you ramped your speed up to drilling speed, you were able to just turn off instead of reducing speed back down. Is that because you are not going that fast and turning on would not kick off breaker? Because I was having to turn speed down before turning off was my main reason for updating to Power Pro. Are you wired for 220 or 110 ? Always love watching your videos. Such a huge wealth of information you are sharing. THANK YOU!!
Thanks for your kind words, Tom. I’ve actually done a video on when I turn the speed down and when I don’t. I’m on 110v with a dedicated outlet and is I use an extension, it’s a large gauge extension that’s only 8’ long. Check that video out, if you can find it! Scott
Gary - locate the miter gauge in the slot, position it to rest against the side of the board, tighten the Allen screw in the miter bar. Now you have side support. You might clamp the board to the miter face. I made a miter extension. That really helps with lateral support clamping. Position the fence on the end table or extension table. Using clamps to stop the piece from moving length wise, I’ve horizontally bored very long pieces, both flat and round. The floor lamps, because of their taper required some, how can I say, “ingenuity”.😎👌
I just got a bigger shop, and I am now semi sad to say, I want to get rid of the shop smith. I would love to reference a good video to a potential buyer, but this one is not it, lol! Any recommendations?
Scott, I always enjoy your Shopsmith videos. You provide very valuable insight in the use of the Shopsmith features with your tips and tricks. I just started a restoration project where I am making six table leafs for a very old oak dining table. I intend to use brass pin and sleeve hardware to join the table leafs and am debating whether to use a doweling jig or use the Shopsmith boring feature. I would like to use the Shopsmith for this task because I believe it will provide more stability and accuracy compared to a doweling jig. The old table leafs have three steel pins on each edge of each board that mate into bored holes. Would appreciate your thoughts as to whether I should place the pins in an alternating pattern on each edge of each leaf or just one edge on each leaf and your overall comments on using the Shopsmith boring feature for this project.
Hey Charles. Yes, the Shopsmith is an excellent choice for this. Not knowing which model you have I would say at the top of my suggestions would be to make sure that the main table is properly supported by butting it against the side support table. There may be some flexing which could cause your bit to enter at an angle. Use good, sharp brad point bits and traditionally these holes are all drilled in the same location so that leafs can be swapped. Finally, drill the holes with the leaf with the top surface facing the table and clamped in place. Good luck! Scott
No, for several reasons but the most important one is I don’t have a Mark 7, so I can’t do under table routing. Perhaps I’ll pic one up some day, but it’s pretty low on my list.
Hi Scot, Just came across your horizontal boring video, Just a thought, wouldn't it be easier to use the tubes that join the tables together rather than moving the headstock to abut against the auxiliary table to stop the main table "flexing" when pressure is put on it whilst horizontal boring? After all, you had everything set up for your depth of holes for dowelling prior to moving the headstock. A Shopsmith 510 & 520 owner & user from the UK
Hey George. That certainly something you could do however I would not say that adding the tubes would be “easier“ than butting the tables. Using my method requires no alignment of the tables or fidgeting with the tubes, and this approach can be used by people who don’t own the 510 or 520.
Are you boring from the outside corner connecting one corner to another? If I were to do that, I would position the Shopsmith in horizontal boring mode and use the miter gauge locked into the miter slot as a back up, along with some clamps to hold the frame in place.
Scott.... I've been watching your videos and find them informative. I have a problem and hope you can help. I've got a 8 '84 500 and just added a NEW PowerPro headstock. I find in trying to make pepper grinders and boring the the holes in lathe mode with a #2 MT drill chuck in the tailstock that there is a lot of flex of the tailstock when drilling the hole though the mill body. It causes the drill to drift slightly off center because of the pressure of drilling with the headstock. A regular lathe has a stiffer tailstock setup for drilling. Any ideas to help me though this? Thanks for the help AND the videos. Danny
Hey Danny. Peppermills are cool projects. What type of bit are you using, what size is it, what material are you drilling and at what speed? The best advise I can give without knowing more is to make sure that your bits are sharp and that you don't feed too fast or too slow. Feeding too fast obviously can add more flex, while feeding too slow will cause the bit to overheat and dull. Let me know more and I'll see if I can offer any insights. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings The bottom of the body is 1 5/8" forstner sawtooth only 3/4" deep and I think the speed chart had 375rpm. The wood is cherry. The other hole is 1 1/16" sawtooth forstner bit at the same speed. I try to apply enough feed pressure to cut. The next set I'm going to try will be Spectraply which I'm going to assume will be easier to drill. Thanks for the help. Danny
@@MyGrowthRings Scott... What are your thoughts on step drilling the grinders, meaning drill a 3/4" brad point then finish with the 1 1/16" forstner??? Thanks Danny
Seth, I’m not quite following what you are describing. Are you boring into the end grain, or through the face of the tenon? Is this for a draw pin? Tell me more? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thanks! Yes end grain. I see I can clamp or hold wood flat against the table saw/drill press table but I guess I just have to make a jig or buy a special clamp to hold round material while horizontal drilling.
@@bigsusan666 yes, that’s probably the best approach. You can lock the miter gauge in the slot and back the stock up with the fence, but a v-block is your friend for this type of work. Scott
I started as a retails store salesman at the factory showroom, and after a few months they promoted me the the store manager in their soon to open Boston store. While there I found it very difficult to hire an Academy Instructor, so I started teaching classes and absolutely loved it, so after a couple years I moved back to Dayton and took over the Academy Instructor role at the factory Academy. After a few more years I left but continued to teach classes for them under contract until they rehired me to develop and run what was planned to be a franchised store concept. That ended abruptly as they restructured the company. So all told I worked for them 12 years. I own a 10er, a Mark V 500, two 510’s, a 520 and two TotalShop clones. Yeah, I really like these tools!
Very interesting! I like your videos! It sounds like you have more than one shop. Your videos make me want to get back in my ,12x16,shop and get reacquainted with my shopsmith 2004 model. Thanks again.
@@carlcooper3525 Yes, I actually rent a large space on the other side of the county near when we used to live. It's not an hour round trip so I decided for every day round the house stuff that it mades sense to bring one of the Mark Vs over and after giving it some thought I thought it might be interesting to some to see how one can be put to good use in a small space. I'm taking 1/4 of a two car garage, which is tight but not an uncommon situation. 12X16 is a good space. Scott
Hi Scott, just found your channel. I had a shop smith years ago and am thinking of getting another. Is Shopsmith sill in business and are parts fairly easy to come by? Thanks.
Hey George. Yes, Shopsmith is still in business in Dayton, Ohio, though they no longer have stores and they have really trimmed back their offering. The parts are very common, not only through Shopsmith but also used on eBay where several people are in the business of parting them out. Since they are build like battleships they run just fine on used parts. In fact, all of the them that get used are run on used parts! Scott
Not a fan of those dowel centers. If I were performing this operation, I would simply clamp a stop to the fence and butt each piece to it then boar the hole into both pieces, move my stop to the second holes location and repeat. To me, leaves less room for human error in my opinion
That’ll work too. I guess I got used to the dowel centers after years of transferring hole locations from legs to posts on Shaker candle stands that we used to build in the Shopsmith Academy.
I was thinking the same thing. Why not just make a mark (like you would for a biscuit joint) across the top of both pieces once you have them aligned, the drill accordingly? Isn't that faster and more efficient than using the dowel centers?
The problem I have with horizontal boring is to get the piece I am boring properly anchored. I have a Mark V 500 and I can’t get the rip fence secure enough. Any ideas on how get the piece anchored more solid? I’m thinking some type of jig that fits the miter slots.
If I had more time to edit it would have been shorter, hence, "Sorry I didn't have time to record a shorter video". It's a play on a famous Mark Twain observation about editing.
@@MyGrowthRings I applaud you for your infectious smile, personality, doing the right things at the right time. I’ve had ms for 42 years. Women are affected more often than men. You mentioned your daughter seeing a neurologist. Immediately I thought of multiple sclerosis. Whatever the diagnosis, prognosis follow the science. I wish for all of you the very best.
@@johnrice6793 Ah, now I understand. Our daughter has an odd form of epilepsy that comes on during pregnancy. She has been dealing with this for about four years and her problems were multiplied by another issues that led to vision loss and other things. In a twist of fate they where visiting the doctor to have him look at my son-in-law’s carpel tunnel issues, so Dayna was just there for moral support and to catch viruses!
Small note. On drilling W/C's Reindeer, I still noticed a tiny bit of play even snugged up against the end table. Placing tubes inside and on both sides made it all rock solid. I had not thought of the end table until you said it, I was trying legs...the end table was easier, thanks, K
Hi Scott, my thoughts and prayers are with your daughter and your whole family. I hope that she gets better quickly and everyone else stays healthy.
Thanks so very much, Mark.
When joining a side grain piece to an end grain piece, it would be better to bore the end grain first due to drill bit drift caused by denser growth rings. That way, you can correct for the drift when boring the side grain. I've owned a Shopsmith Mark V since 1979 and have learned a lot of tips, tricks and work-arounds for some of its unusual features, but I am still able to learn some new things from this channel having just discovered it about a month ago.
That’s actually a very good point. I guess I’ve gotten out of the habit of what order to drill them in. Thank you for the reminder. Scott
Scott, Great video. I just subscribed to your channel. Your maintenance video caught my eye. I just retired and want to get back into woodworking and turning. I have a Shopsmith that I bought in 1986 and it's been stored for the last 20 or more years and want to get it in ready for use again. Another way to align the holes for horizonal boring is to use a square and draw perpendicular lines across both of the boards where you want the dowels at. That way you don't have to deal with the dowel centers. Praying that your daughter and her husband don't get Covid.
Welcome back to the hobby and to the channel. Yes, drawing lines like you describe can work, just as long as the bit doesn’t wander. Shouldn’t be an issue with chard brad point bits, as I always make sure to use. Thanks for jumping into the conversation! Scott
great idea to use the end table as a brace. I might also put some of the round tubes through the tubes on the 510 table and tighten the knurled nobs down, that should stabilize them additionally. You could also use the feather board to hold down the board as you drill it. I use horizontal boring to bore the holes for pens before I turn them. It's faster and easier than lifting it up and using the SS as a drill press.
All great points, Dave. Thanks for taking the time to share them. Scott
Please do an alignment video! My 510 tables system is in pieces while I've been de-rusting and buffing the tubes back up. Also been wet-sanding the tops and re-waxing using your wax video.
It certainly needs to be done.
I was horizontal boring this weekend and could of used the butting up against the aux table trick. I will be sure to use it next time!
It’s your trick now, as long as you remember it!
Agree. Thats a great & easy tip.
Hey Scott. You've mentioned showing us your 'best' accessory shelf since you have a few. Interested to see what your shelf holds. I noticed that you put your miter guage on it and retrieved your 3/8 drill bit & chuck from it in this video.
My collection of Shopsmith accessories continues to grow. I'd like to build a shelf that makes sense even if I don't have all the bits to fill it (yet).
Coming soon! I've designed a new one and was actually hoping to build it this week when we got the news about my daughter.
@@MyGrowthRings I would like to see that too. If you have done that video in the interim, please let me know. thanks.
Yes, alignment from start to finish. I have the upgraded 5 to a 720. The only thing I did not do is buy the new digital head stock, just did not think
I needed it.I am now a faithful sub. //ji. John in Oregon
I've never heard of a 720.
@@MyGrowthRings Typo Sorry......the 500 upgrades to the 510 and then with the digital power head to a 520 (not 720)
Major upgrade for me was the 510 w/ new bigger fence and tables. Keep these videos going. We are all digging out our shopsmiths now to get realigned. Thanks //ji Johnin Oregon
Dowel center are better used for items that don’t fit into a drill press or boring machine. It’s much easier/accurate to just use stop blocks per paired holes being drilled. Drill 1a and 1b first, then move stop block, 2a and 2b, etc.
If you find you can’t use the fence for end grain or longer pieces just use a t-track or some variation clamp to put a straight edge fence parallel to the chuck.
I always prefer to use a stop and a fence, but you are right, there are some places that dowel centers are the bees knees.
Sorry to hear about the covid situation.
Thanks. Most of us are vaccinated now, so we are all good. Scott
Scott cuts it short by making the longest video in a while! I hope your family remains alright and they can be out of quarantine shortly.
I hope so too. Yeah, editing is always the most time consuming part of the process and I knew I wouldn't have time to do it. I'm sure I missed something. Scott
Great vid hope you and yours are doing well. Be safe!!
We are. Thanks for checking in.
Great videos - I just got a Mark 7 and your videos are very helpful!
Glad to hear it. How do you like it so far? Scott
I was wondering how you cleaned the drill chuck. Mine needs some love.
Nothing beats elbow grease. That and some WD40 and ScotchBrite.
Good luck with those grandkids! I do well for about five minutes!
Thanks! They are great kids.
Scott love your channel! If possible could you do a video on the basic five tools that come with the shop smith ? I would buy them in a second! You could progress to moderate then advanced. Would love to see you get rich!
I appreciate your dreams for this channel! Yes, I'd nibbling away at the basic functions but a deep dive will come. Scott
OMG Scott! I was just in Harbor Freight
looking for a threading tool and saw the Doweling Accessory set and wondered how to use it! Wow! Is this a coincidence or just the Aristocob magic at work?
Alex
It's all part of living the #CobLife
I noticed that when you ramped your speed up to drilling speed, you were able to just turn off instead of reducing speed back down. Is that because you are not going that fast and turning on would not kick off breaker? Because I was having to turn speed down before turning off was my main reason for updating to Power Pro. Are you wired for 220 or 110 ? Always love watching your videos. Such a huge wealth of information you are sharing. THANK YOU!!
Thanks for your kind words, Tom. I’ve actually done a video on when I turn the speed down and when I don’t. I’m on 110v with a dedicated outlet and is I use an extension, it’s a large gauge extension that’s only 8’ long. Check that video out, if you can find it! Scott
The big advantage to horizontal boring is drilling the end of a long board (difficult on a drill press). Please demonstrate how to do that properly.
True. I’ll have to look around for something long.
Gary - locate the miter gauge in the slot, position it to rest against the side of the board, tighten the Allen screw in the miter bar. Now you have side support. You might clamp the board to the miter face. I made a miter extension. That really helps with lateral support clamping. Position the fence on the end table or extension table.
Using clamps to stop the piece from moving length wise, I’ve horizontally bored very long pieces, both flat and round.
The floor lamps, because of their taper required some, how can I say, “ingenuity”.😎👌
I just got a bigger shop, and I am now semi sad to say, I want to get rid of the shop smith. I would love to reference a good video to a potential buyer, but this one is not it, lol! Any recommendations?
Scott, I always enjoy your Shopsmith videos. You provide very valuable insight in the use of the Shopsmith features with your tips and tricks. I just started a restoration project where I am making six table leafs for a very old oak dining table. I intend to use brass pin and sleeve hardware to join the table leafs and am debating whether to use a doweling jig or use the Shopsmith boring feature. I would like to use the Shopsmith for this task because I believe it will provide more stability and accuracy compared to a doweling jig. The old table leafs have three steel pins on each edge of each board that mate into bored holes. Would appreciate your thoughts as to whether I should place the pins in an alternating pattern on each edge of each leaf or just one edge on each leaf and your overall comments on using the Shopsmith boring feature for this project.
Hey Charles. Yes, the Shopsmith is an excellent choice for this. Not knowing which model you have I would say at the top of my suggestions would be to make sure that the main table is properly supported by butting it against the side support table. There may be some flexing which could cause your bit to enter at an angle. Use good, sharp brad point bits and traditionally these holes are all drilled in the same location so that leafs can be swapped. Finally, drill the holes with the leaf with the top surface facing the table and clamped in place. Good luck! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks so much for the feedback. I have an upgraded 510 model. Much appreciated!
Can you do a video on under table routing with the power pro?
No, for several reasons but the most important one is I don’t have a Mark 7, so I can’t do under table routing. Perhaps I’ll pic one up some day, but it’s pretty low on my list.
Hi Scot,
Just came across your horizontal boring video, Just a thought, wouldn't it be easier to use the tubes that join the tables together rather than moving the headstock to abut against the auxiliary table to stop the main table "flexing" when pressure is put on it whilst horizontal boring?
After all, you had everything set up for your depth of holes for dowelling prior to moving the headstock.
A Shopsmith 510 & 520 owner & user from the UK
Hey George. That certainly something you could do however I would not say that adding the tubes would be “easier“ than butting the tables. Using my method requires no alignment of the tables or fidgeting with the tubes, and this approach can be used by people who don’t own the 510 or 520.
How do you drill at 45 ? Picture frame
Are you boring from the outside corner connecting one corner to another? If I were to do that, I would position the Shopsmith in horizontal boring mode and use the miter gauge locked into the miter slot as a back up, along with some clamps to hold the frame in place.
Scott.... I've been watching your videos and find them informative. I have a problem and hope you can help. I've got a 8
'84 500 and just added a NEW PowerPro headstock. I find in trying to make pepper grinders and boring the the holes in lathe mode with a #2 MT drill chuck in the tailstock that there is a lot of flex of the tailstock when drilling the hole though the mill body. It causes the drill to drift slightly off center because of the pressure of drilling with the headstock. A regular lathe has a stiffer tailstock setup for drilling. Any ideas to help me though this? Thanks for the help AND the videos.
Danny
Hey Danny. Peppermills are cool projects. What type of bit are you using, what size is it, what material are you drilling and at what speed? The best advise I can give without knowing more is to make sure that your bits are sharp and that you don't feed too fast or too slow. Feeding too fast obviously can add more flex, while feeding too slow will cause the bit to overheat and dull. Let me know more and I'll see if I can offer any insights. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings The bottom of the body is 1 5/8" forstner sawtooth only 3/4" deep and I think the speed chart had 375rpm. The wood is cherry. The other hole is 1 1/16" sawtooth forstner bit at the same speed. I try to apply enough feed pressure to cut. The next set I'm going to try will be Spectraply which I'm going to assume will be easier to drill. Thanks for the help.
Danny
@@MrBeechcrafter Sounds like you are doing everything right. Perhaps try honing the lifters on the bit?
@@MrBeechcrafter Whoops! Signed into the wrong account! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Scott... What are your thoughts on step drilling the grinders, meaning drill a 3/4" brad point then finish with the 1 1/16" forstner???
Thanks Danny
ive been exploring my shopsmith and cannot figure out how to horizontal bore into a tenon or round stock. id love any insight!
Seth, I’m not quite following what you are describing. Are you boring into the end grain, or through the face of the tenon? Is this for a draw pin? Tell me more? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thanks! Yes end grain. I see I can clamp or hold wood flat against the table saw/drill press table but I guess I just have to make a jig or buy a special clamp to hold round material while horizontal drilling.
@@bigsusan666 yes, that’s probably the best approach. You can lock the miter gauge in the slot and back the stock up with the fence, but a v-block is your friend for this type of work. Scott
Hello Scott, Thank you for your video, I have one little question. What did you do to your shopsmith so it is that noiseless???
That’s a result of the noise canceling in my ear buds. Trust me, it’s loud enough. Scott
How many shopsmith do you have? Are all your shopsmith used? What did you do at shopsmith?
I started as a retails store salesman at the factory showroom, and after a few months they promoted me the the store manager in their soon to open Boston store. While there I found it very difficult to hire an Academy Instructor, so I started teaching classes and absolutely loved it, so after a couple years I moved back to Dayton and took over the Academy Instructor role at the factory Academy. After a few more years I left but continued to teach classes for them under contract until they rehired me to develop and run what was planned to be a franchised store concept. That ended abruptly as they restructured the company. So all told I worked for them 12 years. I own a 10er, a Mark V 500, two 510’s, a 520 and two TotalShop clones. Yeah, I really like these tools!
Very interesting! I like your videos! It sounds like you have more than one shop. Your videos make me want to get back in my ,12x16,shop and get reacquainted with my shopsmith 2004 model. Thanks again.
@@carlcooper3525 Yes, I actually rent a large space on the other side of the county near when we used to live. It's not an hour round trip so I decided for every day round the house stuff that it mades sense to bring one of the Mark Vs over and after giving it some thought I thought it might be interesting to some to see how one can be put to good use in a small space. I'm taking 1/4 of a two car garage, which is tight but not an uncommon situation. 12X16 is a good space. Scott
Talk to later and probably will!
always helpful. thanks. - where'd you get the tool to size dowels?
From Shopsmith, of course. It was a long time ago, though. I believe it was made by General Tools.
Highland Woodworking has them: www.highlandwoodworking.com/dowelformer.aspx and I also found them on eBay: ebay.to/3lWHXcg
@@MyGrowthRings Much Thanks!
You are welcome. It’s a great tool for making fluted dowel pins from any dowel.
Hi Scott, just found your channel. I had a shop smith years ago and am thinking of getting another. Is Shopsmith sill in business and are parts fairly easy to come by? Thanks.
Hey George. Yes, Shopsmith is still in business in Dayton, Ohio, though they no longer have stores and they have really trimmed back their offering. The parts are very common, not only through Shopsmith but also used on eBay where several people are in the business of parting them out. Since they are build like battleships they run just fine on used parts. In fact, all of the them that get used are run on used parts! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks
Not a fan of those dowel centers. If I were performing this operation, I would simply clamp a stop to the fence and butt each piece to it then boar the hole into both pieces, move my stop to the second holes location and repeat. To me, leaves less room for human error in my opinion
That’ll work too. I guess I got used to the dowel centers after years of transferring hole locations from legs to posts on Shaker candle stands that we used to build in the Shopsmith Academy.
I was thinking the same thing. Why not just make a mark (like you would for a biscuit joint) across the top of both pieces once you have them aligned, the drill accordingly? Isn't that faster and more efficient than using the dowel centers?
No way that hex wrench at 1:45 is gonna hang on...
The problem I have with horizontal boring is to get the piece I am boring properly anchored. I have a Mark V 500 and I can’t get the rip fence secure enough. Any ideas on how get the piece anchored more solid? I’m thinking some type of jig that fits the miter slots.
I do have a few and we'll talk about it int he next vid. Thanks for mentioning it. Scott
I just add a clamp to the fence, and it works.
I like that apron, too ... also have to endure razing about how amazon got my pix
The struggle is real. I know I always wished that I had been born rich rather than handsome, but what are ya gonna do? Scott
Oh yeah........ brush off that rusty chuck. //ji
Done.
Long or longer video...?
Whichever you got.
If I had more time to edit it would have been shorter, hence, "Sorry I didn't have time to record a shorter video". It's a play on a famous Mark Twain observation about editing.
@@MyGrowthRings I did not know that. "short" it will be.
@@chadnevels246 Mark Twain’s actual quote was “I apologize for such a long letter - I didn't have time to write a short one.”
@@MyGrowthRings Witty and contradicting. I like it.
I’ll bet I know -
Huh?
Oh, the bit you can’t have? I wonder if you do...
@@MyGrowthRings
I applaud you for your infectious smile, personality, doing the right things at the right time.
I’ve had ms for 42 years. Women are affected more often than men. You mentioned your daughter seeing a neurologist. Immediately I thought of multiple sclerosis. Whatever the diagnosis, prognosis follow the science. I wish for all of you the very best.
@@johnrice6793 Ah, now I understand. Our daughter has an odd form of epilepsy that comes on during pregnancy. She has been dealing with this for about four years and her problems were multiplied by another issues that led to vision loss and other things. In a twist of fate they where visiting the doctor to have him look at my son-in-law’s carpel tunnel issues, so Dayna was just there for moral support and to catch viruses!
@@MyGrowthRings
Sheesh! “Just when you knew it was safe to go back into the water...”