HardFacing tools using Drillbits as filler rod!?!? II How to weld Hardfacing
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 чер 2024
- Sounds pretty crazy right? The result might surprise you!
Order custom PCBs from jlcpcb.com/DYE 5Pcs from as little as $2
Tig Welder: duroweld.co.nz/products/wave-...
For welding, I used a tig welder set to DC (no fancy AC mode required) Although the peak welding current was set to 200Amps, using the foot control I used around 150amps during this process.
When it comes to drill bits, I used plain vanilla HSS drill bits. I avoided using Titanium nitride-coated drill bits as I feared the coating would probably not mix well during this process? I found the best size of drill bit to weld with was 4mm
0:00 Intro
1:17 Testing metal hardness
2:05 Selecting Drill bits
3:00 Ad
3:43 Welding
7:38 Finishing touches
8:16 First Dig
9:59 Digging Root
12:02 Conclusion
Schematix - Наука та технологія
Wow that’s cool. I’m a 30 year pipe welder and I’ve used a lot of different filler metals but never even thought to use is drill bit. Got to try that.
That's a great result I am a metallurgist and I learnt In Metallurgy Science when you heat a hardened bit it loses its hardness at orange heat
Yeah, I was just thinking about this.. Was it necessary to cool it during the grinding when it had already been melted during the welding? And wouldn’t you need to harden it again to achieve the original hardness of the drill bit?🤔 Perhaps the heating and cooling helped a bit?
Because the weld bead is relatively small, and the process is relatively quick - the large mild steel mass it's being welded to pulls the heat out in sufficient time to harden it - you can see it go cold within seconds as the TIG torch moves along to the next bit... it's almost like quenching, hence the hard result. But when you grind (and he said he was grinding for 30 minutes) you can generate enough local heat, for enough time to temper it back to soft metal, which is why he kept it cool with water.
I think that the results are achieved because the filler is still way harder than the base metal even when heat treated in less than ideal conditions.
- even non heat treated (hardened and tempered") HSS is higher strength steel than mild steel - it isn't just the treating that makes this a potential good use of old drills... If you can TIG weld. (don't forget your metallurgy including "self hardening" HSS.)
Never loose your curiosity nor that tenacity that makes you go through with your ideas! I for one loved this video. TY 👍😁
Awesome! Hard to believe the edge held up so well. All that pumice.
Even regular filler rod is going to be a step up in strength over the mild steel itself. The other problem if the new material is too hard it can chip off over time because the stresses at the transition don't match up with the mild steel underneath. For hard facing anvils, they recommended putting down one layer of medium hard material with a hardness in the mid/high fifties, and then your top layer with a hardness in the sixties.
You should use a special grinding wheel made for hardfacing. Norton makes some great grinding wheels. Get the one made for S-1 steel. Works just killer.
Using old drill bits to hard face is a great idea...I would have never thought that to be possible. New Zealand is just a beautiful place. I've never been there but every time I've seen pictures and video of it, it just seems like Shangri la.
NO ITS NOT!
ITS A CRYIN WASTE!
Resharpen drill bits, stop wasting them! Find an old rusted file, anneal/normalize it, use it instead. Reharden it.
@@canberradogfarts or just use a bench grinder
*Brilliant. I hardface excavator bucket teeth with stick regularly in the field but will attempt to use some of our old two foot drill bits next time as an electrode to both add more material and hopefully do it less often. You are obviously an engineer lol , but maybe 1. Prep drill bit flute interiors with acetone and cuetips, they have ten years of oil on there. 2. Prep tool surface with acetone as well, 3. Increase pre and post flow time, get a lot of argon on there. 4. Use a grinding wheel vs cutoff wheel with grit on flats*
Dude, your backyard in Germany would called a federal state! ... or two! Realy nice look.
Excellent video. I became interested in the concept when I saw Jody use a drill bit, & This Old Tony used some tool steel filler- I rebuilt a set of bolt cutter jaws, hardfaced a digging bar (aka "heater bar") that I use to dig corners out of flint/clay packed gravel roads (as a Land Surveyor), and have even fixed some chisels from China. It definitely works.
Thanks!
Best idea for all those snapped short bits, thanks
I have been thinking about doimg this for months. Have about a dozen dull 1/8 bits saved for this reason. YT recommended me this video and now I'm inspired to finally give it a try
Always enjoy watching your content and this video was very practical and informative - however, that box of drill bits had a ton of life in them, I know they’re coated with either tin or cobalt but they can be resharpened… even the split point - centre lead point drills can be sharpened many times.
But I guess for proof of concept I can turn a blind eye 😁
very nice---pretty sure it is better quality wise than anything you can buy in the store these days ! Thanks for the video
This was a fascinating idea and I am very glad I saw it! Surprised how well the HSS kept its hardness. What a beautiful place you live as well!
One can also weld the entire drill bit to the edge of the tool...I've seen some blacksmiths use files as well.
Many thanks for all you videos and the technics that you show us!
The impurities could also be caused by bad gas coverage. try putting steel wool, fine scotchbrite or any other thin fine media up the nozzle of the tig torch. I've had the same problems, especially with the chinese stuff.
As an added bonus, your welds will become shiny.
An often overlooked cause of porosity is high pressure on the gas, causing turblulance. A diffuser in the nozzle should slow the gas down a bit.
A great idea. If you call those drills past their best, you should see mine. 😄
Hi, Schematix. You are the3rd person I know in New Zealand. Good luck with your UA-cam channel. It is very interesting. I will share it with. my son who might be able to use the info. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!
That is awesome, now I have a use for the broken bits
Truly a beautiful view and a great video!
Awesome video and beautiful backyard
Well, I would have never known a drill bit could be used this way as well! 👍
Nice idea! And, what a beautiful view!
I use music wire as a filler rod for hardening surfaces. It's cheap and works very good.
Oh wow! Love your view. I watched it several times. You should do a video on the scenery around your home. Interesting video as well. Thanks.
Great idea and fantastic view, thanks for the video
I like the ingenuity. Thank for the video.
Never thought of that ! Looking at your back yard makes me want to go trout fishing - there just has to be a stream out there somewhere 🎣
Looking in from Beach Haven Auckland. Great idea I will need to give it a try.
Neat Idea! I was looking at building a hoe made from a chunk of ar500 steel
Wow! Very useful skill to have.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Great job!
Good up-scaling and reuse of equipment.
Better than throw and repurchase! 😁
This drill bit idea was a good idea, I like it 😃😃😃 Thanks
This is a great video, I loved it
It would be very interesting to also harden the tip of this tool (without any welding) , and then do a comparison of performance between the two .
These cheap tools are made out of mild (low carbon) steel that doesn't harden.
@@andrecook4268 case harden or bust
Excellent idea, well done. 👍🇬🇧
Minor detail, but that tool is called a mattock. A hoe has a longer handle and usually a square head. In any case, that was a very clever idea. Thanks!
I was going to say pickaxe, but you nailed it. Maybe that’s just what they’re called in his country, though.
Thanks my man. I just started my TIG course a few days ago and was planning to build up a tool steel edge on some knives, good to know I don't have to use some pricey, specialized filler rod
Awesome video man.👍👍
Masonry nails, or concrete screws might be a good source of filler rod. One could also buy a small spool of hard facing mig wire.
Hss hardens in air. Unless you know how the nails are hardened, you'd have to test them to see if they harden in air or oil etc.
so going to try this thanks
Amazing idea
Thanks for sharing!
I love how this dude is monotone, a bit chubby has zero swagger not tough or high energy but is one of the coolest ppl on youtube😎
Would be a brilliant idea on mower blades.
Thank you
Brilliant
Ingenious.
Hi schematics big fan subbed to the channel from albany auckland.
Porosity may be due to welding technique. Smaller steps, and quicker dabs of bit. And those were biggish bits also.
Did some testing of hard face with drill bits last year. As welded hardness was HRC 66...
Many HSS drill bits are constructed with an HSS 'fluted cutting end' but-welded to a carbon steel shank.
Dunking the tool in water to prevent the heat from weakening the metal...that you had moments before melted. Lol
really good idea, might use that one, thanks.
is your back yard in the WAIKATO?
Using drill bits as filler rod on first hearing (I'm no welder) sounds ridiculous and impossible.... excellent demonstration.
Interesting. I saw a graphite embedding to add more carbon to steel to make it harder.
👍👍 Thanks for the info..☺️
DUDe....i just started watching this video....i am at 1:30 now.... weather your idea works or not....this is UTTERLY BRILIANT !
mint idea, will do same. Where in NZ r u? I'm in Chch.
How does grinding over heats the metal but welding doesn't?
It probably doesn’t. That’s more a precaution for other types of steel and probably more of a habit/less heat is better approach. HSS is pretty forgiving and retains its hardness at high heat.
I was wondering the same thing. If it retained its hardness after being melted, no amount of grinding would soften it. Actually I’m thinking it was too hard from the quick cooling after welding so maybe some heat treatment is in order?
I wonder if I could do the same thing to my lawn mower blades?
maybe it would be easier to grind down witha diamon grinding disk, or were you already using one of those type?
Don’t use diamond on steel.
Someone, somewhere, at the same time: How to make drill bits from filler rod....
💪
oh, and that is not a mattock either it's a grubber. Mattocks are heavier steel and the smaller end is at 90 degrees to the larger end, small end is more axe like. Cheers.
What is a gumtree doing in the land of the long white cloud?
Good to see you wearing your Fred Dagg gumboots!
I reckon the drill bits are worth more than the hoe and certainly more than the required filler rod.
Do you think cooling the hoe's hard face while grinding would make any difference considering you just melted it on?
Good idea though, do you think high tensile fence wire would work too?
Thinking about it, I should have put on a pair of stubbies & black singlet for this video aye! Oh well, least I had the gummies! Interesting suggestion you have there. Striping the galvanising would be required prior to welding. Maybe worth exploring...
Is that the Kaimai Ranges?
Damn. Why didn't I think of that?
Are you North or South island? I hear there is quite a difference in weather is that correct. My daughter is a teacher I am trying to convince her to move to NZ the UK is so leveraged with debt after Covid it will be generations before it is cleared.
If you want to had face this correctly, you need to do the side opposite the bevel. This way you can re sharp en and still have a hard edge
Very nice! Remember when digging alongdrain for water , you should be facing the way to be dug.
Wood this be a good idea for lawnmower blades
Harder = less flexible. It might lead to the blade cracking and breaking.
Wow, apparently this man has never forged a knife.
Best thing I ever did for trail benching with a $20 hoe was add 300 or so grams of lead to the around the base of the head, the extra weight to the hoe to improved performance when chipping hard earth. It murders the cutting edge if you hit anything harder than lime stone rock, like a buried waratah. I used a long band of flashing lead and wrapped it around the base of the head with a hose clamp to hold it, but it would have been much nicer to cast a doughnut to fit the handle.
A couple of thoughts: You could try hardening the original steel with a mixture called super quench that can harden and toughen mild steel. There is a good video comparison here: ua-cam.com/video/NL6g_dMjN2k/v-deo.html
You could also try peening the edge to thin it and work harden the steel. This is the same principle that they use on scythe blades.
If you still want to use old drill bits, and I think that is a very clever idea to upcycle a work out tool, I would suggest adding the hard surface to the back of the blade rather than the beveled face. That would make sharpening the tool easier as it does wear, and you wouldn't be grinding away as much of the deposited drill material as you sharpen your tool. This is the same idea as the older laminated chisels. Hard steel on the back of the tool, bevel is hard at the cutting edge, and soft further up the bevel.
Great video and a really clever idea that I will probably end up using on some of my tools.
Thanks.
You need to test the bits. i believe drill bits are softer/different metal at the chucking end. Stops damage to chuck when bit slips in it and probably better grip.Not the same tool steel all the way through to the end probably also done for cost saving. waste of money to have tool steel on non cutting end.
And if you factor in time and the rustoleum spray can...wouldn’t it still be cheaper just to buy a higher quality tool in the first place??
Strange that they'd even make a hoe with soft steel rather than the same steel as the hammer. Not much better than making it out of soft bronze. Was it originally made at the dawn of the Iron Age?
Agreed! The sad thing is, this garden hoe isn't the worst I've owned. My last garden hoe I threw out after it literally bent back on itself after hitting a rock in the soil!
Living in 2021, most products we purchase only have to look good on the internet.
It can be a good idea but don't face harden everything... There are dangers involved if you are hitting hard things they can fracture and throw shards. But for soil and wood.... Have fun.
Now, for those of you Johnny come Latelys that want to blather "what about resharpening the file big guy?"
Thats not a thing. You can acid clean a file once or twice b4 its merde. But after that, the file is done, its donor metal. Use it to hard face.
Hey just saying having a diamond sharpening stone helps for sharpening stuff like this rather than using a grinder
i havent watched the whole video yet but maybe you could add carbide as this is harder than hss
Are coffin nails particularly hard?
Coffin nails go in wood. They are mild steel with low carbon content. They also have no rare earth elements alloyed in. You can use masonry names as they at least have a higher carbon content. M2 or HSS some good spices and seasoning to help along the journey.
Why dont you use stellite? Its meant for hard facing
Can you add Turkish subtitles?
trust a kiwi to think of doing this!
Hay-Hoe - looks more like an Adze, to me.
Keep the filler rod in the pool.
Its a Grubber not a Hoe lol, know your tools. your really taking to this welding craft and taking it where few welders would even consider taking it, not sure if that's a good thing but entertaining none the less, your viewers never know what they are going to get.
BE CAREFUL!!! It’s extremely dangerous to have any striking tool with a hardened edge.
also, cheap diamond stones and laughing paste come in handy when dealing with HSS or really hard steels.
I have experience forging and machining every type of steel. And it’s extremely dangerous using any type of striking tool that has a hardened face. I’ve restored well over a dozen anvils. Some really beautiful old historic pieces that had been really abused.… In the past I tried everything from machining the top flat then adding a new plate of steel. Then comes the difficulty of heat treating and relieving the stress. Heating something that large and doing it evenly is difficult.,
I also used the hard facing technique like you discussed in your video. With welding rods.
You just have to be careful, and I’ll explain the potential danger below. But it can cause serious injury.
It’s a very fine line to get something sufficiently hardened, so that it holds an edge, Without being brittle. You also have to take into account work hardening, which will harden the steel further… As it is used.
But with a striking tool, you can only go so far. There’s a reason they don’t make many striking tools with hardened steel. If you hit a rock with that spade, or if you hit metal with that hammer (like a nail)…. It can cause serious injury and even become lethal. There have been many instances of blacksmiths using hammers made from tool steel, that were too hard. If they miss their target and strike the anvil, or another hardened tool… A piece will chip off….. traveling at supersonic speed’s like a bullet.
And wedge itself in between your legs, where your biggest veins in arteries carry blood.
These chips can easily and instantly pass right through several layers of heavy clothes and even leather aprons. They’re traveling as fast as a bullet. And if it just slightly hits one of your big arteries (that are right there close by unprotected)… You’re done for. You won’t even make it to the hospital.
Just be careful.
You can also add carbon to steel which will allow you to harden it further. Of course with hardness, comes brittleness. It’s fairly straightforward. And has been done in the Blacksmithig community for a long time. There are different methods. But basically put stuff with carbon around it and get it really hot.
Lots of stupid comments here…..osha needs to monitor all of you 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Rods before hoes
buy a new hoe, heat the tip and dip it to temper the edge
Normalize an old file. Cutoff a piece of the file and forge weld it to the edge of your tool. Requench the tool edge.
NEVER EVER THRIW AWAY DRILL BITS. Unless you can make drill bits.
Freakin learn how to resharpen them and they WILL last you DECADES.
Stop throwing out the baby with the bathwater!!!!!!!!!
Anything to make the job harder….don’t go buy the correct rod….trash you drill set instead😂😂😂😂😂😂