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Being a retired mechanic by trade for 40+ years I still like seeing videos how other techs do things. You're never too old to pick up a few tricks. I have to say your videos are very professionally done and very well focused (great camera) ! Also appreciated are the footnotes on socket/wrench size and torque specs. The relaxing music and absence of dialogue are refreshing. You have gained a new fan to a guy who's not an easy sell! Thank you
Wow. Thanks so much!! Very kind words. I really appreciate it so much. The amount of work that goes into a video is tremendous and it feels great to know you like it and it’s worth doing. Thank you 😀
I just went thru this war with my 06 wrx limited , it was originally an illinois car, since I bought it we moved back to Arizona, let me tell you what I fought that rusty ball joint for 4 hrs . Just before I was headed out to pick up a used knuckle I was able to get it out . Got it all cleaned up lathered in anti seize got it back together with a through bolt and its good as new ! I'm very glad to find out it's common for them to be a rusty PITA ! Great video and im glad I found it !
Thank a lot. Glad to help out. The video is how it should work-minus the rust. Rusty ones are a complete pain. Very doable for experts but have to be done correctly and are very technical with rust issues to ensure a proper repair. You are an expert sir 😀🔧
Just excellent. Love all the practical, common sense background and the nods to other ways of doing it. Your list of tools and videos is gold! Thanks for the time and effort to make these videos. I have the ball joint puller you have listed and it works great. This weekend my 2014 Forester with 140k miles gets a new left front CV axle, control arm and wheel hub bearing.
Excellent basic video easy to understand I loved the relaxing music I have seen it a lot but this is the one I love the most I have seen it several times
Brilliant video. Both pinch bolts snapped when I was replacing both lower control arms. about to give the air hammer tool a try! I was trying to wedge a chisel in between the pinch gap, but it has been fruitless. I hope this works. Brilliant video thanks for your time.
Glad it helped. Good luck with the air hammer method. It's my favorite. They rattle right out. There are pullers and some other methods to remove them, but give never needed any other method. Those pinch bolts suck big time when they corrode. Hang in there!
You're definitely right about the pinch bolts, they can be buggers to get out. I was surprised how easily the control arm let go of that ball joint. I usually apply anti sieze on the shank of the ball joint, helps tremendously. Great video!!
Thank you. I would avoid anti sieze on the shank of the ball joint if you can. It is an tapered interference fit part. The pinch bolts are a big pain sometimes! 😀
Wow ...again...I learned a new way to remove the ball joint from socket with an air hammer..really nice touch. also the note at the end with an estimate of when one of these would be expected to give out is super helpful....I’m doing forester wheel bearings at 135k miles.. so looks like I will take this opportunity to replace ball joints as well. Thanks again.
I’m pumped it helped you out so much! Awsome man. Yup those ball joints are in the target zone. You could get more life out of them. When they do go bad they don’t progress too quickly. So you could always just keep an eye on them every oil change. That’s wants I typically do with my Subbies. But since it’s in the target zone not a bad idea to replace.
I finally got around to doing this today on my ‘01 Forester and the bolt joint stud was seized inside the transverse link hole. The ball joint came out of the big hole from the spindle up top but simply would not come out from the transverse link below.. I was finally able to remove the ball joint only after removing the whole transverse link from the car. If you have to do the same thing I did, remember to torque both bushing bolts (towards rear of the car) to the body which hold the transverse link to a whopping 180ft/lbs! The other bolt which attaches the transverse link to the bottom of the cross member (towards front of the car) gets torqued to 72ft/lbs.. Some simple repairs can get complicated. I’m glad it all worked out in the end. Phew..
Sorry you had so much trouble. These things are so easy to repair if there is no corrosion. Corrosion makes every step much much more difficult. This is one of the few that has ever gone perfect for me. I have a corroded version coming out at some point soon. 😃
@@EasyFixShaun Haha yeah the funny thing is I live in South FL (no rust state). I love working/fixing my car. I’ve done everything to it from an entire engine overhaul to repair a H/G leak to changing rear bearings, brakes, etc.. but this little ball joint service turned out to be a pita.. lol it’s all good now 👍🏻
thanks for the video was vary helpful for my subaru balljoint replacement ended up having to use a through bolt and drilling out the old bolt due to it being rusted and snapping off
Jealous! I am glad you got it done. With no rust these ball joint replacements on Subarus are a dream come true. So easy and so fast. Good engineering 😃
Good point. I was preparing to heat the ball joint if it was too rusted. I remove the cv-axle for that. Omitting that step in this video would be perfectly fine since the pinch bolt for the ball joint was not corroded in 😀
just found your channel! Great content and videos! I got myself a Astro Pnematic - Subaru Ball Joint Puller (Model: 78620), very nice tool too and cheap if you are doing lots of those ball joint jobs!
Good video. No need to unbolt the axle end though. Easier to unbolt half the sway bar link. That allows the A arm to drop fully. I guess removing axle end will allow you to heat the ball joint bolt without melting the axle boot. Good job. I have used a ton of aftermarket balljoints. They all hold up nicely.
Thanks! Good point! There are several ways to gain access for replacement. I have had the opposite happen on ball joint durability. Anything other than Subaru's oem joints fail in less than 12 months. I live in Michigan so that could be the cause😃🔧
Nice to see the grade 10.9 bolt, and the antiseize, to help out the next guy. Outstanding video, I really like the music. Normally I don't like videos without dialogue, but you got it right with the captioning. Regarding your remark about the torque, I wish UA-cam would bring back annotations, they were invaluable to authors who want to amend something. Only question I have is why you don't use that Astro tool. For thirty bucks I would have thought a pro wouldn't think twice, if only to reduce the chance of damage to the knuckle. Or, maybe use EricO's idea of a slide hammer and two nuts welded together, since you use a lift and have room below.
Thanks man! I agree. Annotations would be a nice feature to be able to use. I should use the proper puller. It’s faster for me to vibrate it out. It’s my flat rate tech roots that drives me to do things like that. I should have put that in there just so everyone knows it is available. I will fix that on the next video for sure. Thanks for the feedback man. I really appreciate it 😁
Dude! That impact hammer is amazing. It’s called a long barrel impact hammer. It’s a snap on or Mac model. Ingersol rand has an excellent one on Amazon. It’s the same model. I think I put a link to it. Either way you go, any manufacturer with a long barrel will be the most powerful. Most professional manufacturers only offer the long barrel option now 😀
Great video, concise and to the point. I do wonder, is it really necessary to remove the axle from the hub? Does that make removing the ball joint easier?
You could do it with out removing the axle. Sometimes a boot or cv axle on the inside joint at the transmission can get pulled apart and messed up. The knuckle gets moved around a little bit while working. So I just move it out of my way. Either could work though. 😀
Doing this now....just an fyi...if you are capable...heat that bolt holding the upper part of the ball joint...they are know to snap...I've drilled out many the weekend warriors have tried on their own...Great video!!! Subd!!👍🙂
Damn dude you are a beast. I had to disconnect the sway bar. You just bent it out of your way! Sway bar linkage looks a little cracked BTW. This was 5 years ago. I'm sure it got replaced since then.
Ya the sway bar is a little stiff and it is just doing it's job and match suspension height to the opposite side. i just use a pry-bar to move it. Works well. Needs the perfect spot though 😀
Will you make a video showing how to remove the bolt if rusty? I drive a rusty Subie. Thanks for the video, the calming music made me feel like I can tackle this job! : )
I didn’t have a hammer drill but I used a chisel and a big heavy hammer and kept hitting it and behold it came out 😂such a good moment after spending 2 days trying to remove it.
Is this the exact same procedure on a 2016 impreza wagon? I've done all these steps, and even removed the sway bar links, and the control arm has zero play whatsoever. Knuckle won't budge to pull out axle either. The stud end of the ball joint will not release from control arm because I can't get CA low enough to pop the stud out. The ball joint also will not pop out of the socket either. I lifted the drivers side and placed on jack stands at frame rail under driver side door, i've PB blastered for 4 days, used pickle forks to separate ball joint from knuckle, and I've hammered the hell out of the control arm near ball joint and this thing will not budge. Maine vehicle, but only 85k on the car and this is unnecessarily difficult. Any help is greatly appreciated
Hey! Sorry for the delay. Should be exactly the same parts. It sounds like corrosion is the problem. Corrosion will make these extremely difficult. If your pinch bolt came out that is 99% of the battle usually, you just need to remove the ball joint from the knuckle socket now correct? If so there is a puller available on amazon. I put a link in the description. I like to use my air hammer and chisel to vibrate it out at that point. It is a somewhat advanced method. A puller from amazon would be easiest.
@@EasyFixShaun no problem at all, I really appreciate the reply! I actually ended up getting that ball joint puller you mentioned. I used a steel pipe on the end of the pickle fork to give me more leverage, worked like a charm to get the ball joint out of the control arm. That puller is a must have for any Subie owner in the rust belt.
It's likely wishful thinking that the problem is actually a bad ball joint. The ball joint was bad, though. It needed to be replaced anyway. It's not like I replaced a perfectly good part or anything.
Hi I didn't drill out the bolt on this, Mine was able to be removed luckily. I replaced the bolt with new and then installed it into the factory knuckle.
Nice video, I appreciate the effort and the list of links. Nicely done! You note 66 foot lbs for the lug nuts, is that common on some of the older cars? I have a 2014 and 2017 Subaru both call for 89 foot lbs. Thanks again!
Thanks a lot I am glad you liked it! That spec is inaccurate. It should be higher. Make sure and double check your specs for that reason. 80-100 is much more normal. So I am sure your number is right. Thank you for pointing that out. I will not it in the description.
I like the video, I had to drill out my pinch bolts, but can't get the ball joint out from upper assembly, I've stripped the threads. Would you recommend more air hammering and CV axle removal for access?
The cv axle removal allows the knuckle to be moved around easier. It isn’t necessary for removal. It does make it easier for me to pull knuckle to the side with one hand, and air hammer with the other hand so the ball joint can fall out. I use a chisel bit and hammer on the joint only. Don’t hammer on the knuckle. Basically I hammer right between to the two. The hammer will rattle them apart and should follow the ball joint on its way out. 😀
I know this is 2+ years old but I had the same issue. I had to remove the brakes, rotor and dust shield and hammer with a short wrecking bar all around the joint for like an hour to knock it down and out.
If only I had watched this video instead of the other ones first when I did this job I would have installed the new ball joint into the knuckle the same way. Would have saved so much time and screwing around. I installed it in the control arm first and then tried to get it up in the knuckle but damn it was such a tight fit I had to use a jack to press up on the control arm and turn the steering wheel back and forth until it dropped in place. Also every so often hamming down on the knuckle.
Not arguing, but some of the torque specs seen here conflict with ones I've seen posted elsewhere (e.g. lug nuts 79 ft-lbs for steel wheels, 89 ft-lbs for aluminum wheels -- video suggests 66; ball joint nuts 25 ft-lbs -- video suggests 22 or 37). Always pays to double check!
Thanks for that I appreciate it immensely. "Check your specifications to be sure", accompanied all of those specs in the video. There are some differences in Subaru models, but I wanted to give some general ranges to get an idea of the process. The wheels have different torque specs depending on aluminum or steel wheels. The lower control arms also have different specs for stamped steel or aluminum lower control arms. Usually aluminum control arms are on WRX's 😃
Man! That lower control arm looks so bad, i just replaced the passenger side on my '07 Forester because it broke while driving; it was scary. I replaced both sides with STI aluminum ones, they won't rust.
Thanks 😀. I was trying to make it as simple as possible. This is how a Subaru ball joint replacements go with no corrosion issues.. Corrosion causes problems at the pinch bolt. They have a tendency to break from being corroded badly inside the knuckle bore at the shoulder of the bolt, and also the threads. I will make another video on that and the best way to go about it when that happens.
Hi, great video! Need to do this on my GC8 very soon. Just wanted to double check, is the bolt size M10x1.25-50 or 40? The video says 40 but the description says 50. Thank you!
No, Subaru ball joints are NOT all the same. My 2018 Impreza looks nothing like this. It has three nuts and bolts attaching it to the lower control arm.
Looks like you might be right! That Ball Joint is a Toyota Ball Joint style so the Impreza may have a sister model at Toyota. I don't know why I haven't caught this yet. Great catch thank you! I will follow up. Going to look at Impreza's this week to confirm 😃
Fairly straight forward as long as there is no rust. If there is rust the pinch bolt can be a big problem and break off. Some people then replace the knuckle. Some drill out the old bolt and install a through bolt. This video is the ideal no rust replacement on how it should go, but watch out for rust. It changes everything on the repair 😃🔧
Penetrating will never hurt! Most times it is not enough for these unfortunately if they rust like I see them for 10+ years in the rust belt. The rust jacking between the bolt and knuckle seals out penetration. Upon pinch bolt removal the bolt brakes. But..... I have seen miracles with rust penetrant. Do it everyday for a month and it may just help 😃
@@EasyFixShaun I made it on both sides without breaking the pinch bolt. Lubed the bolts two weeks in advance, which may have made the difference. Used a breaker bar very carefully to feel if the bolt would turn or not.
Great Job! These things are a special nasty horrible repair animal all of their own if rusted even a little tiny bit. All the problems are at the pinch bolt. The threads stick or the shaft of the bolt sticks or usually both. Then it breaks. If there's no rust, they are quite possibly one of the easiest and fastest lower ball joint repair on earth once you do a few of them. 😃
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*_New sway bar link video_* ua-cam.com/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/v-deo.html
Being a retired mechanic by trade for 40+ years I still like seeing videos how other techs do things. You're never too old to pick up a few tricks. I have to say your videos are very professionally done and very well focused (great camera) ! Also appreciated are the footnotes on socket/wrench size and torque specs. The relaxing music and absence of dialogue are refreshing. You have gained a new fan to a guy who's not an easy sell! Thank you
Wow. Thanks so much!! Very kind words. I really appreciate it so much. The amount of work that goes into a video is tremendous and it feels great to know you like it and it’s worth doing. Thank you 😀
I just went thru this war with my 06 wrx limited , it was originally an illinois car, since I bought it we moved back to Arizona, let me tell you what I fought that rusty ball joint for 4 hrs . Just before I was headed out to pick up a used knuckle I was able to get it out . Got it all cleaned up lathered in anti seize got it back together with a through bolt and its good as new ! I'm very glad to find out it's common for them to be a rusty PITA ! Great video and im glad I found it !
Thank a lot. Glad to help out. The video is how it should work-minus the rust. Rusty ones are a complete pain. Very doable for experts but have to be done correctly and are very technical with rust issues to ensure a proper repair. You are an expert sir 😀🔧
Just excellent. Love all the practical, common sense background and the nods to other ways of doing it. Your list of tools and videos is gold! Thanks for the time and effort to make these videos. I have the ball joint puller you have listed and it works great. This weekend my 2014 Forester with 140k miles gets a new left front CV axle, control arm and wheel hub bearing.
Thanks a lot glad to help. Good
Luck on your project 😀🔧🔧
Excellent basic video easy to understand I loved the relaxing music I have seen it a lot but this is the one I love the most I have seen it several times
I am glad you liked it! Thanks a lot. 🙂
Very nice! Great video, fast and to the point with simple explanations
Thank you!
Brilliant video. Both pinch bolts snapped when I was replacing both lower control arms. about to give the air hammer tool a try! I was trying to wedge a chisel in between the pinch gap, but it has been fruitless. I hope this works. Brilliant video
thanks for your time.
Glad it helped. Good luck with the air hammer method. It's my favorite. They rattle right out. There are pullers and some other methods to remove them, but give never needed any other method. Those pinch bolts suck big time when they corrode. Hang in there!
You're definitely right about the pinch bolts, they can be buggers to get out. I was surprised how easily the control arm let go of that ball joint. I usually apply anti sieze on the shank of the ball joint, helps tremendously. Great video!!
Thank you. I would avoid anti sieze on the shank of the ball joint if you can. It is an tapered interference fit part. The pinch bolts are a big pain sometimes! 😀
Thanks for posting! Easy to follow, i like that you also added text to help explain what you're doing/using!!!
Yup no problem. I’m glad it helped you. Thanks for watching and thank you for your comment. 😃
Wow ...again...I learned a new way to remove the ball joint from socket with an air hammer..really nice touch. also the note at the end with an estimate of when one of these would be expected to give out is super helpful....I’m doing forester wheel bearings at 135k miles.. so looks like I will take this opportunity to replace ball joints as well. Thanks again.
I’m pumped it helped you out so much! Awsome man. Yup those ball joints are in the target zone. You could get more life out of them. When they do go bad they don’t progress too quickly. So you could always just keep an eye on them every oil change. That’s wants I typically do with my Subbies. But since it’s in the target zone not a bad idea to replace.
I finally got around to doing this today on my ‘01 Forester and the bolt joint stud was seized inside the transverse link hole. The ball joint came out of the big hole from the spindle up top but simply would not come out from the transverse link below.. I was finally able to remove the ball joint only after removing the whole transverse link from the car. If you have to do the same thing I did, remember to torque both bushing bolts (towards rear of the car) to the body which hold the transverse link to a whopping 180ft/lbs! The other bolt which attaches the transverse link to the bottom of the cross member (towards front of the car) gets torqued to 72ft/lbs.. Some simple repairs can get complicated. I’m glad it all worked out in the end. Phew..
Sorry you had so much trouble. These things are so easy to repair if there is no corrosion. Corrosion makes every step much much more difficult. This is one of the few that has ever gone perfect for me. I have a corroded version coming out at some point soon. 😃
@@EasyFixShaun Haha yeah the funny thing is I live in South FL (no rust state). I love working/fixing my car. I’ve done everything to it from an entire engine overhaul to repair a H/G leak to changing rear bearings, brakes, etc.. but this little ball joint service turned out to be a pita.. lol it’s all good now 👍🏻
You are soooo lucky to not have rust. That is awsome. Nice work 😀
Wonderful video. Appreciate the info about the axle nut.
Thank you! No problem. Glad it was helpful 😃😃🔧
This channel is excellent. Far better to watch a video of someone who knows what they’re doing than to balls it up first time and pay! Cheers (:
I appreciate that 😄
Excellent video. Appreciate you clearly illustrating BJ removal. Thank you
Thank you! No problem glad to help 😃😃
Awesome video! Thanks so much it was very helpful! Simple and to the point
Thank you so much! I am glad it helped you out.
thanks for the video was vary helpful for my subaru balljoint replacement ended up having to use a through bolt and drilling out the old bolt due to it being rusted and snapping off
No problem! Glad to help. Great job getting it all fixed up 😀😀
I'm glad I have a car from California. My pinch bolt wasn't even rusty. Came out easily.
Jealous! I am glad you got it done. With no rust these ball joint replacements on Subarus are a dream come true. So easy and so fast. Good engineering 😃
Great instructional video, thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I don’t remove the axle. End link and sway bar bushings only. New oem pinch bolt. The. Problem is sometimes the BJ stem gets rust welded into the LCA.
Good point. I was preparing to heat the ball joint if it was too rusted. I remove the cv-axle for that. Omitting that step in this video would be perfectly fine since the pinch bolt for the ball joint was not corroded in 😀
Great video. Thank you!!
You bet! 😃🤝
just found your channel! Great content and videos! I got myself a Astro Pnematic - Subaru Ball Joint Puller (Model: 78620), very nice tool too and cheap if you are doing lots of those ball joint jobs!
Glad to have you! Thanks for commenting. I have surprisingly never used that puller tool. I should get one and try it though. Tools are good 😃
Good video. No need to unbolt the axle end though. Easier to unbolt half the sway bar link. That allows the A arm to drop fully. I guess removing axle end will allow you to heat the ball joint bolt without melting the axle boot. Good job. I have used a ton of aftermarket balljoints. They all hold up nicely.
Thanks! Good point! There are several ways to gain access for replacement. I have had the opposite happen on ball joint durability. Anything other than Subaru's oem joints fail in less than 12 months. I live in Michigan so that could be the cause😃🔧
Beautiful work
Thank you so much 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun bro thank you for posting this and great work on the edit for the video it’s what I’m doing today
No problem. Project go ok?
You do a great job
Thanks you! Much appreciate 😃🔧
Nice to see the grade 10.9 bolt, and the antiseize, to help out the next guy. Outstanding video, I really like the music. Normally I don't like videos without dialogue, but you got it right with the captioning. Regarding your remark about the torque, I wish UA-cam would bring back annotations, they were invaluable to authors who want to amend something. Only question I have is why you don't use that Astro tool. For thirty bucks I would have thought a pro wouldn't think twice, if only to reduce the chance of damage to the knuckle. Or, maybe use EricO's idea of a slide hammer and two nuts welded together, since you use a lift and have room below.
Thanks man! I agree. Annotations would be a nice feature to be able to use. I should use the proper puller. It’s faster for me to vibrate it out. It’s my flat rate tech roots that drives me to do things like that. I should have put that in there just so everyone knows it is available. I will fix that on the next video for sure. Thanks for the feedback man. I really appreciate it 😁
Made it look so easy.. that impact hammer o_O I need one lol
Very vice! 👍🏻
Dude! That impact hammer is amazing. It’s called a long barrel impact hammer. It’s a snap on or Mac model. Ingersol rand has an excellent one on Amazon. It’s the same model. I think I put a link to it. Either way you go, any manufacturer with a long barrel will be the most powerful. Most professional manufacturers only offer the long barrel option now 😀
@@EasyFixShaun Thank you, I’ll ask the wife one for Xmas 😃
Perfect 😀
I just added the links for you 😁
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks 👍🏻
Great video, concise and to the point. I do wonder, is it really necessary to remove the axle from the hub? Does that make removing the ball joint easier?
You could do it with out removing the axle. Sometimes a boot or cv axle on the inside joint at the transmission can get pulled apart and messed up. The knuckle gets moved around a little bit while working. So I just move it out of my way. Either could work though. 😀
Doing this now....just an fyi...if you are capable...heat that bolt holding the upper part of the ball joint...they are know to snap...I've drilled out many the weekend warriors have tried on their own...Great video!!! Subd!!👍🙂
Thanks for the info! 😀
Damn dude you are a beast. I had to disconnect the sway bar. You just bent it out of your way! Sway bar linkage looks a little cracked BTW. This was 5 years ago. I'm sure it got replaced since then.
Ya the sway bar is a little stiff and it is just doing it's job and match suspension height to the opposite side. i just use a pry-bar to move it. Works well. Needs the perfect spot though 😀
Will you make a video showing how to remove the bolt if rusty? I drive a rusty Subie. Thanks for the video, the calming music made me feel like I can tackle this job! : )
No problem I will work on that! I am glad it helped. Thank you for the comment.
Thanks!
Great job with video and thank you
No problem glad you enjoyed it 😃🔧
Why remove the 32mm axle nut??
You don't have to do that. But it makes it easier to swing the knuckle out of the way 😀🔧🔧
I didn’t have a hammer drill but I used a chisel and a big heavy hammer and kept hitting it and behold it came out 😂such a good moment after spending 2 days trying to remove it.
No Way!! Excellent work 😃😃
Is this the exact same procedure on a 2016 impreza wagon? I've done all these steps, and even removed the sway bar links, and the control arm has zero play whatsoever. Knuckle won't budge to pull out axle either. The stud end of the ball joint will not release from control arm because I can't get CA low enough to pop the stud out. The ball joint also will not pop out of the socket either. I lifted the drivers side and placed on jack stands at frame rail under driver side door, i've PB blastered for 4 days, used pickle forks to separate ball joint from knuckle, and I've hammered the hell out of the control arm near ball joint and this thing will not budge. Maine vehicle, but only 85k on the car and this is unnecessarily difficult. Any help is greatly appreciated
Hey! Sorry for the delay. Should be exactly the same parts. It sounds like corrosion is the problem. Corrosion will make these extremely difficult. If your pinch bolt came out that is 99% of the battle usually, you just need to remove the ball joint from the knuckle socket now correct? If so there is a puller available on amazon. I put a link in the description. I like to use my air hammer and chisel to vibrate it out at that point. It is a somewhat advanced method. A puller from amazon would be easiest.
@@EasyFixShaun no problem at all, I really appreciate the reply! I actually ended up getting that ball joint puller you mentioned. I used a steel pipe on the end of the pickle fork to give me more leverage, worked like a charm to get the ball joint out of the control arm. That puller is a must have for any Subie owner in the rust belt.
Nice I am glad you got it sorted out 😃
Ball Joint puller like this? amzn.to/3NhZjQu
It's likely wishful thinking that the problem is actually a bad ball joint. The ball joint was bad, though. It needed to be replaced anyway. It's not like I replaced a perfectly good part or anything.
Bad ball joint for sure 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun its a lower control arm. But it supposedly comes with a new ball joint anyway.
I hope you're happily married to a beautiful woman and are raising many children. 🍻 to you.
🍻
Nice video. How do you remove old ball joint without an air hammer?
I listed a special tool for it in the description from Amazon. It's basically a puller. 😀🔧
Thank you!
Wow, I've seen so many WRX kids do 15 minute videos which don't even give as much useful info as this.
Glad you like it! I really appreciate you 😀
hi. once you drilled out the pinch bolt, which type of through bolt is needed (size and quality)? thanks
Hi I didn't drill out the bolt on this, Mine was able to be removed luckily. I replaced the bolt with new and then installed it into the factory knuckle.
Nice video, I appreciate the effort and the list of links. Nicely done! You note 66 foot lbs for the lug nuts, is that common on some of the older cars? I have a 2014 and 2017 Subaru both call for 89 foot lbs. Thanks again!
Thanks a lot I am glad you liked it! That spec is inaccurate. It should be higher. Make sure and double check your specs for that reason. 80-100 is much more normal. So I am sure your number is right. Thank you for pointing that out. I will not it in the description.
I like the video, I had to drill out my pinch bolts, but can't get the ball joint out from upper assembly, I've stripped the threads. Would you recommend more air hammering and CV axle removal for access?
The cv axle removal allows the knuckle to be moved around easier. It isn’t necessary for removal. It does make it easier for me to pull knuckle to the side with one hand, and air hammer with the other hand so the ball joint can fall out. I use a chisel bit and hammer on the joint only. Don’t hammer on the knuckle. Basically I hammer right between to the two. The hammer will rattle them apart and should follow the ball joint on its way out. 😀
I know this is 2+ years old but I had the same issue. I had to remove the brakes, rotor and dust shield and hammer with a short wrecking bar all around the joint for like an hour to knock it down and out.
If only I had watched this video instead of the other ones first when I did this job I would have installed the new ball joint into the knuckle the same way. Would have saved so much time and screwing around. I installed it in the control arm first and then tried to get it up in the knuckle but damn it was such a tight fit I had to use a jack to press up on the control arm and turn the steering wheel back and forth until it dropped in place. Also every so often hamming down on the knuckle.
Oh man! You did it the hard way. Sorry about your luck, I have been there too. But, you will have a better feel for it next time 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaunwell "next time" came. Just did the other side and used your method and it took two minutes instead of twenty to get the ball joint in!
Cool! I am glad it worked for you 😃
Not arguing, but some of the torque specs seen here conflict with ones I've seen posted elsewhere (e.g. lug nuts 79 ft-lbs for steel wheels, 89 ft-lbs for aluminum wheels -- video suggests 66; ball joint nuts 25 ft-lbs -- video suggests 22 or 37). Always pays to double check!
Thanks for that I appreciate it immensely. "Check your specifications to be sure", accompanied all of those specs in the video. There are some differences in Subaru models, but I wanted to give some general ranges to get an idea of the process. The wheels have different torque specs depending on aluminum or steel wheels. The lower control arms also have different specs for stamped steel or aluminum lower control arms. Usually aluminum control arms are on WRX's 😃
Man! That lower control arm looks so bad, i just replaced the passenger side on my '07 Forester because it broke while driving; it was scary. I replaced both sides with STI aluminum ones, they won't rust.
Michigan invented rust 😂. I like the aluminum, it corrodes but life expectancy is waayyyyy longer!
I use the Snap On Subaru Ball Joint tool. Even quicker than your air hammer .
Cool! Great tip 😃
Nice. Do you do alot of work on Subies.. or just your own?
I work on everything. I have owned a few Subie's though 😃
Well done- smooooth :-)
Thanks 😀. I was trying to make it as simple as possible. This is how a Subaru ball joint replacements go with no corrosion issues.. Corrosion causes problems at the pinch bolt. They have a tendency to break from being corroded badly inside the knuckle bore at the shoulder of the bolt, and also the threads. I will make another video on that and the best way to go about it when that happens.
Where did you get the pinch bolt from?
amazon! I put some links in the description 😃
Hi, great video! Need to do this on my GC8 very soon. Just wanted to double check, is the bolt size M10x1.25-50 or 40? The video says 40 but the description says 50. Thank you!
Are you talking about the pinch bolt?
👍👌
Thanks!
Nice
Thank you!
turn the steering wheel to the right and pry the LCA downward -- this will avoid needing to remove the axle and ya wont need to use the air hammer.
Good tip 😃
My 2020 Impreza ball joint setup is completely different from this.
Sorry about that. You have the three bolt style right? I made an adjustment to the title for you 😃
I woulda removed just the sway bar end link instead of the axle
I don't think that will work.
" Subaru ball joints are ALL the same since 1988. " Subaru Tribeca balljoints are not the same.
You are correct. Sorry for the discrepancy. Replacement is exactly the same😃🔧
No, Subaru ball joints are NOT all the same. My 2018 Impreza looks nothing like this. It has three nuts and bolts attaching it to the lower control arm.
Are you sure?
Not sure how to post a picture here, but yes, I have it off right now waiting for new ones I ordered.@@EasyFixShaun
@@atikovi1 Wow! ok. Is your car from north america? I can not think of why it is different than what i see....
@@EasyFixShaun Just search part number 20206FL00A
Looks like you might be right! That Ball Joint is a Toyota Ball Joint style so the Impreza may have a sister model at Toyota. I don't know why I haven't caught this yet. Great catch thank you! I will follow up. Going to look at Impreza's this week to confirm 😃
Assuming you have that jackhammer.
true. a chisel and hammer could be used also to vibrate it. I linked a subaru lower ball joint tool in the description as an option also 😃
I think i can do this. In fact, i have to.. Thanks. ;)
Fairly straight forward as long as there is no rust. If there is rust the pinch bolt can be a big problem and break off. Some people then replace the knuckle. Some drill out the old bolt and install a through bolt. This video is the ideal no rust replacement on how it should go, but watch out for rust. It changes everything on the repair 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun I'll spray on some penetrating oil in advance.
Penetrating will never hurt! Most times it is not enough for these unfortunately if they rust like I see them for 10+ years in the rust belt. The rust jacking between the bolt and knuckle seals out penetration. Upon pinch bolt removal the bolt brakes. But..... I have seen miracles with rust penetrant. Do it everyday for a month and it may just help 😃
@@EasyFixShaun I made it on both sides without breaking the pinch bolt. Lubed the bolts two weeks in advance, which may have made the difference. Used a breaker bar very carefully to feel if the bolt would turn or not.
Great Job! These things are a special nasty horrible repair animal all of their own if rusted even a little tiny bit. All the problems are at the pinch bolt. The threads stick or the shaft of the bolt sticks or usually both. Then it breaks. If there's no rust, they are quite possibly one of the easiest and fastest lower ball joint repair on earth once you do a few of them. 😃