*_HUB SHOCKER TOOL FOR SUBARU REAR BEARINGS!!!_* ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html This is now the only way I will replace a rear bolt-in style Subaru wheel bearing. Save yourself the pain of doing these the hard way. 🔧🔧 🚀 $29 ASTRO TOOLS "LAST CHANCE" WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL KIT can supplement or replace the Hub Shocker. Probably the ultimate removal tool. I have tested it. It is amazing! Great tool to have in your box! EASILY REMOVES the worst of the worst. Works on Subaru's and Ford Explorer/Ford Edge/Escape/and others. Impossible bearing removal solved without knuckle replacement 😃🔧 Astro 78834 amzn.to/3JgbSYf *_New sway bar link video_* ua-cam.com/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/v-deo.html *_Wizard Subaru Timing belt trick:_* ua-cam.com/video/WGZOXrIq2Q8/v-deo.html
Glad it was helpful! These replacements are absolutely brutal. Did you see the hub shocker? Get the tool and do it just like the second video... save yourself....it is not worth doing any other way...get the tool....the hard way is not worth it....😃🔧 Video- ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html Tools- $75 ATD-8629 Hub shocker: amzn.to/3B4S9rs LTI Shocker LT830A: amzn.to/3dMQFq9 8 Pound Sledge Hammer: amzn.to/30rx6Qe Astro 78834 amzn.to/3JgbSYf
Most concise video on this topic, Great job. I got the first one out (passenger side) by threading in the bearing bolts part way and hammering with an impact socket and old 1/2" extension. Worked good for passenger side (no exhaust in the way) Drivers side is being more stubborn because I can't get a good swing on the hammer. Now looking for air hammer. God bless, stay well.
Excellent job man! They are a pain. If you can suffer through them you are officially a mechanic! haha. On your next one get a hub shocker. Pops them out like butter. I have another video on it and amazon links if you need them 😀
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html Hey! Let me know if you like this method would you? It is the only way I do rear Subaru bearings now and is much much easier than air hammering. I would say the replacements are now easy for me.
I was just curious, can the sensore be removed before disassembling ? I have a 2016 Crosstrek is the Outback different. Ive always removed these sensores. Just curious.
Yup you should always remove the sensors. I should have mentioned my reason behind not removing. Sorry about that. The only reason i don't remove them is the fastener breaks where I live from rust usually. Or the sensor has to be destroyed to remove it, also from rust jacking. So i usually risk it and leave it in. If I'm successful in not damaging it, I'm good to go. If i damage it, then i just replace it, and drill the bolt if it breaks, yada yada 😀. If you are doing a rear subaru wheel bearings i highly recommend you watch my two Hubshocker videos. It's a great tool and the best way i have found to do rear Subbie wheel bearings.
Nice video. I really liked your technique using the air hammer to break the bearing loose in the rotational axis. Was there a reason you just didn't remove the ABS sensor to be safe?
Thanks! Ya the abs sensors where i live corroded so badly they are almost guaranteed to break. So if it seems it may break i take the risk of not removing and not breaking it vs certain breakage on removal. It works 9/10 times in my favor usually.
"(Subaru bearings) are actually not that expensive surprisingly..." Sorry to say I've come from 3.5 years in the future, and during this crazy parts shortage, an oem bearing is about $500CAD. 🤯 This video may be exactly what I needed to get this wheel bearing done in the driveway though, luckily I have a decent air hammer.
haha! I am glad it helped you out! If you ever need to do another one, here is the way I do rear Subaru bearings now 😃🔧ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
I'd pull that ABS sensor to prevent damage - a 10mm bolt is all that holds it in place. I've just pulled the knuckle and removed the bearing/hub with the knuckle off the car - easier than screwing around beating/vibrating the bearing attached to the suspension - four 17mm nuts and it's off. Rear of the bearing is fully exposed and a few whacks with a 4# hand sledge and it's out. This also allows complete corrosion removal of the contact area in the knuckle for the new bearing - I used Acid Magic for this to remove 11 years of rust layers. YMMV.
I should have removed the abs sensor. I had major rust and the tiny bolts often break were I am at. I took the risk not removing rather than break the bolt. Your method will work great though if that is your preference. Make sure you perform an alignment and adjustment for the alignment bolts that were disturbed and removed on knuckle removal 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun As corroded as that ABS sensor retaining bolt was, a little shot of Kroil and I rocked it out pretty easily. The only problem was the upper control arm pinch bolt and the slipping out the ball joint from the knuckle. Eh, Kroil was my friend and it only took around 45 minutes (including removing the parking brake guts) to get the knuckle off. In general, the corrosion was as bad as I'd ever seen shipboard in the Navy. The new bearing couldn't be inserted into the bearing even after scraping/wire brushing. That ferrous oxide would polish up bright and shiny but I had a .003 interference fit - Acid Magic (inhibited hydrochloric) removed that after a 12 hour soak. Your video was great and a big help for likely 90% of folks...I'm in that cursed 10%.
@@EasyFixShaun Yep, ATD-8629. I have one. Beat on it with overhead strokes of my sledge. And used heat/Kroil. For an entire day. Then pulled the knuckle.
Could help. Anything can help for sure. The sensor rides on the back of the bearing. I am not sure if the sensor hole is exposed the bearing/knuckle mount surface. If it is it could help tremendously. Hard to tell though. Every one i take apart is stuck with force that feels like the bearing is still bolted in. That rust bond is incredibly strong. Let me know if that helps any! 😀
Those are pies in bearings in your 2002. I have an Awsome "press in bearing video 2.0" that is the video you want. Check out my playlist. I demonstrate it on an 2002 wrx 😀🔧🔧
I replace the knuckle after 2 failed attempts. Have not been able to get these late model Outback bearings out. Knuckle isn't that much money. I've done hundreds of these Suby bearings, they are garbage.
Hey fRed Neckerson! I wanted to share a new method I now use on all Subarus wheel bearing replacements. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. You should grab one of these tools if you ever need to replace another bearing. Its like one of my favorite tools now 😀ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
For anyone having trouble getting the bearing out, I tried everything but don't have a skookum enough air hammer or something. What I finally did, luckily I kept two opposing holes undamaged, I took two short lengths of pipe, cut a notch out of one end so they fit over the threaded bearing flange, put an M12x1.25 bolt through each with a stack of washers, and just walked it right off. I spent hours trying to get it off with other methods and it never moved. Once I got this idea, it took about 10 minutes to make the tools out of pipe and about 5 minutes to walk the bearing out.
@@EasyFixShaun Here's a quick writeup with a photo. I was too tired and frustrated to make a video at the time and the car is gone and the old part in the bin by now. www.dragonflydiy.com/2019/05/removing-stubborn-wheel-bearing.html
@@John_Ridley Ugh. Doing this job right now and we're headed to the hardware store to use this tip. Everything went super smoothly, surprisingly for our rusty area, except for getting the actual bearing housing out. Hope we can get it to work!
@@John_Ridley Gotta tell you, really saved our asses. We had to go to the hardware store and get two SIX DOLLAR bolts to do the job. I cut two stands like you showed out of conduit piping. Then I used the plate from my hub pulling slide hammer as the upper support and pulled the hell out of that bearing carrier. We barely got it to crack and it flared out the thin walled piping. Then we found some slightly thicker square tubing and made two more stands out of that. Even beating on both bolts with an air impact gun and then sledge hammering the hell out of the carrier, it still took us probably 30 minutes to get the sucker out. Wow! The car is actually very clean and no rust on most fasteners, but that was the rustiest part we encountered by far. Thanks again!
Hey John! Here is the new method I now use on all Subarus wheel bearing replacements. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. You should grab one of these tools if you ever need to replace another bearing. Its like one of my favorite tools now 😀ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
"use Subaru bearings". You've got to be kidding. I've never seen a vehicle that blows bearings like these Subaru's. There's thousands of people complaining about bad bearings and having them replaced, many multiple times no less, with 10K, 30K, 50K miles on them. WTF Subaru ??? Subaru ABSOLUTELY has a problem. No car should be going thru bearings like this. Bad design, poor manufacturing, whatever it is Subaru definitely has a problem.
I totally agree man. We are at their mercy until someone sells us a better bearing. And to top it all off, a lot of the replacements are e x c r u c I a t I n g l y difficult.
@@EasyFixShaun, well I just ordered "SKF Rear bearings". They offer the longest warranty, even better than Moog's 3 yr/36K mile warranty, and cost closer to Timkin at $95.00 a hub assembly. Moog are expensive as hell at $140.00 or so. SKF are supposed to be premium bearings, exceeding OEM, so I'm going to try um. Have read great things about um. I'll follow up and let you know.
@@Drewg351 - any news about what you decided to go with ? Level of satisfaction? I’m ready to replace all of my 2015 Outback 3.6 bearings ( rear and front). Thanks for your help !
@@mar1video, I used SKF bearings and it's coming up on 1 year and I haven't had ANY problems with them. I'd definitely recommend SKF. When you see the bearing, you'll see it's quality. It's made in Japan so you know it's good quality. Price wise SKF runs around $100.00 a bearing and has the longest guarantee. That's why I choose them. I'm very satisfied and will use them in the future for sure.
@@Drewg351 - great news, thanks for sharing. What is your source (if US)? Did you change anything else (like struts) when you were working on your bearings? Thanks again for your response ! Helps me (and hopefully others) go in a right direction (away from OEM) with parts.
True. I live in the rust belt and many times the abs sensor bolts snap off. It's frustrating not being able to remove that bolt. But here, you learn not to make life harder from snapped bolts when possible. Otherwise i would have gladly removed it for you 😀🔧
Right on! Air hammers are a luxury for sure. For future use, here is the new way to do it. I don't use the air hammer at all. This is the ONLY way. These hub shockers are about $85 and it is the only way to do ANY rear bolt in Subaru wheel bearing. These hubs are excruciating to replace any other way. I hope this helps you and everyone else watching this video 😃🔧ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
My GOD! How long have these been needing replacement? I live in Canada, Winnipeg, Manitoba to be exact. My '05 Outback was making noise for a couple years and I knew it was the right rear bearing...typical for Winnipeg with all the potholes..lol When I replaced it there was no play in the wheel, just the noise. So, I can just imagine how long that wheel bearing was gone for...5, 10 years? Cost me 160.00 plus tax to replace it and now it is quiet as a mouse.
Wheel bearings can fail and be loose and/or noisy. So they can have either symptom or both, in any order. It's crazy how they can fail. I am so glad you got yours fixed up and running smooth again in Winnipeg! What a beautiful place 😃🔧
'Price isn't too bad' $200ish rear bearing from subaru vs $80 for a timken which is a well known bearing manufacterer. I don't know a lot of diyers who would opt for $400 just for rear bearings when a very good bearing manufacturer has units for $160 available.
Yup I agree. Timken is far superior to any manufacturer. I chose Subaru in this case but Timken would have been a better choice. Check out this video! I only remove them this way now. 😃ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Don't know why anyone would recommend Subaru wheel bearings after having to remove defective factory ones. I have now replaced 2 rear bearings on a 2014 Outback with only 125Kmiles!! I am over 60 and have had dozens of cars all high mileage and have NEVER EVER had to replace a wheel bearing until I bought a Subaru! Subaru parts are junk. I wouldn't mind if they were cheap and didn't have to be removed with a sledge hammer. Aftermarket parts much better.
"I use Subaru's bearings cause they don't fail very often." I don't know what Subarus you are working on, but I've seen 2012s that needed 3 and mileage was average for the year. With old Subarus that was not much of an issue, but they must have done some cost cutting with the newer ones....
Yup you are right. Typically Subaru bearings is a no-brainer way to get maximum durability. I apologize for making that statement. Somehow they now have a big problem with the quality of their rear bearings. I could speculate why. I think they are probably not making their bearings in Japan. It’s sad because like you said they used to be awsome and last a long long time. I still haven’t found a solution for a better bearing. I use the Subaru bearings or tinken right now to try to squeeze out as many miles as possible until someone makes a better bearing.
Excellent! I have also now used several brands and I’m hoping to report back soon what one has failed first. Can you keep everyone posted on how your bearing is doing please?
Great video. Good to get a visual before I perform the same repair. I'd suggest applying heat along with running the air hammer. Helping the metal expand will save you a lot of fighting with it. I use a bernzomatic torch w/map gas and it always helps. Thanks for making this!
Thanks man! That is a great Idea. I left the abs sensor in so I didn't want heat in there. I will try that next time for sure. Did you see my "hub buster" video? You may want to just get that tool for your Subaru. Especially if you haven't done one. They are so stubborn on the rear of the Subarus. The tool is well worth the money. I do these a lot. Not one has been easy. With the Hub buster tool, it is no problem. :)
@@EasyFixShaun I just checked it out. Great tool! Yeah as long as you stay clear of things like sensors, rubber boots etc with direct heat you should be good as long as you're careful. Basically if there's a remote chance rust is going to make life difficult I hit the part/assembly with heat, PB blaster and a few hammer shocks before anything. Throw a hub buster tool in there and those hubs don't stand a chance!
Hey Beantube! Would you mind checking out the new video and method I now use on all Subaru rear wheel bearings and let me know what you think? ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
I have three years of auto parts work under my belt. I am going aftermarket bearing. We gave the Subaru folks a shot with the stock vehicle and that is why we have to replace it in the first place. And yes, aftermarket quality is all over the board, so you have to buy smart.
You (and one other home mechanic) recommend only using Subaru hubs, due to aftermarket ones having quality issues or non-functioning reluctor rings, etc. Yet the majority of forums I've read suggest that Timken (OEM Subaru supplier) hubs tend to be "soft" and fail prematurely. I'm looking at two right now that started whining at just over 37,000. It would be nice to know of a reliable alternative brand or model in this case.
Your best bet right now is Subaru or Timken bearings. Both are known to be the best. There is nothing better. They are having premature failures everywhere. No solution yet that I know of. Kinda sucks.
I wanted to share a new method I now use on all Subarus wheel bearing replacements. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. You should grab one of these tools if you ever need to replace another bearing. It is one of my favorite tools now 😀 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html *_Watch NEXT- Subaru Wheel Bearing Removal using a HUB SHOCKER/ HUB BUSTER 2.0.(second video on the hub shocker). I have solved all the removal issues of any Subaru rear wheel bearings. Solved all tool mounting issues and bearing separation issues. I can say these Subaru rear bearing replacements are now truly easy for me._*
He man, I am sorry for the delay, your comment got held for review for some reason. For Bearing assemblies the dealer is surprisingly cheap, plus those are the best option. I have been getting more and more there. Made in Japan is what you want if possible to last the longest. Koyo would be my second choice, they make a lot of bearings for Subaru. Timken would be my third choice.
@De Oppresso Liber Do you have a Subaru Dealer there? Sometimes for bearings they are the last place most people go. I think they are reasonable. Maybe they are a set price even though in Hawaii and still cheap?
This video is bolt in style wheel bearings. You should have press in style wheel bearings on your car. Here is a video that shows the basic idea of press in replacement 😃🔧ua-cam.com/video/P5bwlKKpusk/v-deo.html
The longer I own my 2017 forester the less I like it. Rear hubs went at 50,000 mi and from what I read, I can expect it to happen again. This is a middle Florida car. No salt, no snow. Out of warrenty soon. Oh my...
Yea. Sadly they have started to drop the ball. If it gets any worse i may consider not driving them any more also. 50k bearings is appalling. It is from cheap parts. They know how to make them last and subaru is now going backwards.
Bought my 2017 Subaru new and had both rear wheel bearings fail at 19,000 miles and replaced at dealer under warranty, now at 46,000 miles, both failed again. Replaced with after market, SKF brand - no more Subaru OEM parts for me! I'm also looking to get rid of it as well since the Subaru independent shop also said this is a common issue as it's something to do with the geometry of the rear suspension. There needs to be a recall for this.
Subaru didn't design the suspension well. The CV axles and wheel bearings don't last long at all. How's your aftermarket bearing doing? @@frankanthony9793
Just did this on my Subaru. One of the rear bearings was soo bad we had to remove the hub and press it out. Almost maxed out a 20 ton press before it finally broke loose
“Go ahead and tighten your nutz” lol Really like your videos man, very thorough which is very important to talk about details for noobs with bearings as myself. I wish my ‘01 Forester had a bolt-in bearing. I’ll follow your other video for help pressing it in for older models. Great video 👍🏻
That doesn't happen too often but I have seen it several times. I repaired one by cutting the cv axle and unbolting the bearing and sliding out the cv axle remaining in the bearing. I was able to replace just the bearing and cv axle. The corrosion just locks/welds them together. I have been there and it sucks. You could use a sawzall to cut the axle shaft on the backside of the wheel bearing. Sorry you are having trouble. A couple others needed the bearing, the cv axle and also the knuckle. But you shouldn't need to do that on a Subbie 😃🔧
I was lazy. Sometimes i don't try to remove them because of rust. The corrosion causes the bolts that hold the sensor to break off in a lot of cases. So if the replacement can be done by not disturbing it i usually try not to touch it 😀
@@EasyFixShaun that makes a lot of sense. Thank you for the response. I wasn’t critiquing your video by any means. I am getting ready to do this job on both sides (rear) and I have seen as many folks leave them in as not. I asked you the question specifically since you appear to have experience and explain things clearly and concisely. I am hoping that corrosion won’t be as much of an issue for me here in Virginia. Again, thank you for what you do.
Thank you! No problem glad to help. When loosening them fasteners it's a feel thing for me. But sometimes they fool me too. Usually they either break free or break off! I try to avoid breaking them if I can so that I don't have to spend more time repairing the abs sensor than I do on the wheel bearing replacement 😃 @@peteparker708
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html Hey would you mind checking this new video out and let me know what you think? Because I do so many of these bearings and they are so miserable, I was looking for a better way. I found a better tool. It is now the only way I will replace Subaru rear bearings.
Has anyone come across red loctite from the factory on the bearing bolts? They were impossible to move (rounded the impact socket) until I had my wife hold the propane torch on them while I used the impact wrench.
Ugly? I had hideous with salt and sodium chloride brine fused hubs! Started with hammer until hub began to separate. On to air hammer...bearing assembly just laughed at it. From the back, or from the front trying to rotate...nothing. Made a slide hammer with 5/8th threaded rod welded to a 14mm x 1.5 lug bolt. a 10lbs (4.5kg) cast iron weight. Hammered all 4 bolt hole corners, moving the entire car each blow...liberal doses of PB Blaster over 3 days...not even a crack. The only plus here was my weld held. Truly shocked this was not enough to budge the assembly. I watched the linked "Hub shocker" video (one is on it's way) but to save time I welded an 18" length of 2" black pipe inside the bearing housing after removing the outer seal and BBs. 2" pipe (about 2.3" od) gave a nice tight fit on the inside with a manageable gap to fill and weld on the outside. Took three healthy strikes with a 3lbs maul, but it did pop off finally, with the backing plate and flange still attached. Back to the air hammer and torch to fairly easily remove the flange and backing plate. I'll wait for the hub shocker tool to do the other side, but in a pinch the 2" pipe worked great, the downside is it requires a weld. The damage and maintenance nightmares caused by winter salt/brine de-icers never fail to surprise me.
Man I feel your pain. A lot of people do! These hubs are so incredibly difficult. Especially with even a small amount of corrosion. I live in Michigan where corrosion and rust is a way of life. It sucks. I do them easily now with the Hub Shocker. Links in description! I also made a video on the best way to mount it to the bearing for removal. HUBSHOCKER 2.0 works every single time. ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html Shows how to hold the outer flange from coming loose with the cv-axle nut, and bolt the tool onto the hub. THERE IS NO BETTER WAY TO DO THESE REAR BEARING REPAIRS. PLEASE GET A HUB-SHOCKER AND SAVE YOURSELF! DO IT THE EASY WAY. WATCH THE SECOND VIDEO. IT'S BEEN FLAWLESS FOR ME 😀
Here is the new method I use on all Subarus. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
On my 2014 Impreza I used a 1/4 NPT tap on holes after removing the bolt. Be sure to thread the tap almost all the way in for strong threads The hole is the right size for tapping. Then install four 1/4 NPT plugs. Finally I used bolts from the front to jack the hub out. I had some 3/8x3/4 pins to put in the holes so I could use the mounting bolts. Take your time and turn each bolt a little at a time. And I used a slide hammer to remove the flanges first. But with the right length bolts you can leave the flanges in. Before you get the bearing housing completely out use a 3/8 punch to loosen the backing plates some.
Omg. Watch this video if you ever need to do them again. The tool is called the hub shocker. This is the only way I will do Subaru's now 😃🔧🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
If you do it like the 2nd video link I shared with you it will work every single time. The second video solves tool mounting issues and bearing seperation issues on your exact vehicle. Easy to follow. It is perfect for Subaru's in every way. I am sorry it did not work out for you the first time. I had a few issues also so I solved the problem and made a follow up video. I hope that helps 😃🔧🔧
I was sooo wrong on that one. Sorry about that. For some reason I hadn't really seen one up until that point. Maybe a couple previously but not enough where I saw a trend. Ya these rear bearings suck. They don't last and replacement can be horribly difficult. I have found the best guaranteed way to get them out easily. I made a video about it. Check it out in case you need to do them again 🤓🔧🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
@@EasyFixShaun first two are done under warranty so at least I was good there in the next one's probably will be under warranty as I have a lifetime warranty agreement so I guess we'll just wait and see
Oh that’s nice. Warranty saved you a bundle and all the hassle of putting these in. Now with the shocker, if you need to do it it will be easy. Subaru’s are great cars. They have some issues for sure, but less issues than most overall. You should hopefully be good for a while 😀🔧🔧
THESE BEARINGS FALL APART LIKENO OTHER , I SELL USED SUBARUS, I HAVE HAD TO PUT BEARINGS IN 75% OF THE CARS ALWAYS IN THE REAR FOR SOME REASON , CHINESE BEARINGS IS MY GUESS
Thanks for the video... On google search, the video showed up as 'Easy Fix' and I watched it excitingly hoping something like WD-40 was going to fix the noise from the wheels.. 😂 🤣. Clearly a non-mechanic like myself has to take it to a third-party shop.. The dealers are quoting way too much, $C815 + 13% tax for each side!
Sorry about that! The channel name is easy fix 😂. I wish they were easier. Bolt in style bearings help usually because they just bolt in. Put the best bearings in you can. If you do it should be the last time. Press in bearings usually last a long time from Japanese manufacturers😀🔧
Amazing video - I thought I was in real trouble when the hub puller just broke the bearing in half & it was still rusted - especially helpful that you said to stick with it - will work eventually - took 20 minutes for you - that was spot on! Thanks a million!
In the rust belt/ I would have taken a cookie wheel to the mating surface and be very careful with a wire wheel on the inside, spray it with some fluid film and torque it down, Nice video though, gives me another option for subaru wheel bearings.. Thanks
Sadly, I have a 2002 Impreza 2.5TS, which is also an Outback Sport. Would 2005+ knuckles bolt in so I wouldn't have to mess with press in bearings anymore?
That is great outside the box thinking! I have no experience doing that though. I feel like it would be way to complicated to work easily. I would check forums to see if it has been done before. Helpful for some insight into your project 😀🔧🔧
there are a million ways to skin the proverbial cat. some things others have shared with me i will share with you. you bashed on the disc a bit there, if you are tossing it you can flip it 180 degrees, reinstall the nuts and then use it like the "hubbuster" tool you mentioned in another comment. another way since you busted out the air hammer is to barely back out the 4 bolts holding it to the knuckle and then use your hammer on the heads of the bolts, pushing the hub out. i really like heat, just what i have come up with and old habits ya know. i really dislike using a slide hammer and breaking them to pieces still in the knuckle! thank you for sharing your method!
All good points. This method will work but it is difficult and many people find themselves in this exact situation. These Subarus are excruciating to replace. The only method that works well for me now is the Hubshocker. Here is the video😃🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Just simply amazing.....you have best way in removing stubborn Subaru wheel hub and bearing assembly. You used a slide hammer to separate the assembly in two pieces and then followed by an air hammer to turn and remove the hub. I tried just turning the hub from the knuckle (via serious radial pounding on the hub threaded hole) in lieu of pulling or whacking the hub perpendicular away from the knuckle. It worked like a charm. I was able to make slight radial movement or turning of the hub and consequently release the holding rust. Once the rust bond was broken, it was cake walk removing the hub assembly. There was no need for me to use the slide hammer and air hammer in which I was prepaid to do. Thank you again. I watched several videos and horrific.
Excellent!! I am so glad it worked for you. In the future you may want this hub shocker video: ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html The Twist/Break/Separate Method works good but it was extremely difficult. Don't get me wrong it works and I was thankful. But the Subaru rear wheel bearings are turning out to be a whole new animal. I only use the Hub Shocker now. It's wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy easier for me. Check it out! 😃
Everyone seems to test one of these on a Subaru the biggest wheel bearing fights I can remember having Saturn vues close s being the rear hubs on my 2008 caravan that took a slide hammer with a added 50 lb weight and two friends it also took chunks of the rear axle housing (Northeast problems)
Wow! There always seems to be another contender for the title of toughest wheel bearings. I remember the caravans were really tough, never had the pleasure of attempting a Saturn 😃🔧
Well Saturns are quickly aging out so we got that going for us. But, they're always new contenders. The Explorers and Edges probably take 1st prize currently for most difficult 👻 booo 😂
@@EasyFixShaun Those are pretty rough you can guarantee if one enters the bay it's probably going to need at least two wheel bearings on top of some broken springs 🤣
Yup, they can be really bad. They are bolt-in but rust makes them seemingly welded in. The hub shocker has treated me well if you need to do this. It is the only way I like to do them now.... 😃 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
i used the chisel head on the air hammer and punched in between housing and the brake shoe plate . took like 4 minutes. Then with a sledge hammer punched it out of the plate . Air hammer is a must .
Nice work. I would love to see that method. I only use the hub shocker on the all these rear wheel bearings now. Seems to be way easier on severely stuck bearings. It is amazing how little corrosion will cause them to seem welded in. I think it is the tight tolerances used by Subaru. Hub Shocker....only way for me in Michigan 😃🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Yup! the only reason I didn't remove is that the risk of breakage is very high in the rust belt. So i usually risk breaking on the bearing removal instead and am very successful at saving them that way. It should be remove ideally if at all possible 😃🔧
Man that sucks. If the bearing isn't separated order the hub shocker, 1/2" grade eight bolts and nuts, and an 8lb sledge hammer and work in it in two days from amazon. That's how i do them. If the bearing separated into two pieces, my hub shocker 2.0 video will show you how to pull it back together with the cv axle nut. The put the hub shocker on and easily remove. Been there. They stuck. Stick with it whatever method you use. You will get it eventually. I won't even attempt them anymore with out the shocker... 😀🔧🔧
@@adammatis5527 They are one of the worst by far. The rust jacking makes them seem like they are welded in. But they aren't. The Hub Shocker breaks that rust bond. I love mine. I have had trouble getting them out with the hub shocker at times they are so stubborn. But it works for me every time so far. Best way to do it for me. They royaly suck. Hang in there 😃🔧
Ya I know. Kind of a bummer. The old cars bearings and suspension outlasted the big three. Now the bearings are about on par with them. Not good. I hope they address that stuff soon before they loose some of the great following the have won over the years.
@@EasyFixShaun, yup. Losing me. I'm done with Subaru. These bearing failures are ridiculous. I've never seen a vehicle with as many wheel bearing failures as these Subaru's. I'm done. Fixing, selling, and buying another brand.
Hey man I can’t say I blame you. If you switch go Honda a Toyota. Maybe Subaru will get their stuff together someday. Or drive an older model. It’s frustrating. 10 years ago every Subaru was bullet proof. Didn’t matter what model engine or year. Just buy one and they are the same. They were all good. Now with their bearing issues their are a lot of red flags popping up. And we haven’t event gotten started on the cvt transmissions yet. Its tough for me to recommend them with all of this going on. They are still great cars over all if you can live with bearing and cvt issues. Most bearings cost 600-900 to replace at the dealer. Just to go another 20-60k max. Transmissions are recalled and warranty’s extended, yet none are available. And if you find one just the transmission is 4-6k. That’s not including labor. Something stinks in Denmark. Not good.
@@matteocus13 No. You have press-in style bearings. Here is a video on press-in bearings replacement. Press-in bearing 2.0 video is coming out with in a week and that will be a little better than the first one, if you need it. 😀 ua-cam.com/video/CInFJDz11II/v-deo.html
I couldn’t get either of mine off, great video but I ended up removing both the rear knuckles and replacing them as well as the wheel bearings and new pads while I’m in there, it set me back a bit but I put anti sieze around the bearing to keep this from happening next time. Northern Illinois they put 2inches of salt for every inch of snow…
Nice job! They are such a difficult job that it is crazy. Absolutely insane! I have had to do a few, here is the only way I do them now😃🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
So i have 2013 subaru impreza hatchback and i am facing similar dilemmas as some have posted here. First where did you buy the rear wheel bearings? Also can you list the types of tools you used in this video please? thanks
I posted all of that stuff in the description with links to amazon. Let me know if I am missing something from the video. I think I got most of it for you 😀
Yup. The bearings are cheap which is awesome! The cost is from the labor side of the repair. These bearing replacements are brutal. I mean BRUTAL! I now use the Hub Shocker tool ONLY. It makes them slide out like butter!! No shocker tool......I won't even do them anymore. Its a waste of your time and sometimes you can not get the bearing out. They suck. Here is the shocker tool video you need! Shocker 2.0 video 🔧🔧ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Good video. Neither of my rear wheels have any play - and neither spin very freely as yours did (even with brake pads removed). But the drone noise seems to be on the right side. Can a bearing go bad and not exhibit any play in the wheel? It is an 08 Outback. Thank you.
Thank you! Yes, any bearing can be bad even if there is no play. Very common. I would replace the noisy rear right side first and test drive to see what happened to the noise. You should most likely take care of your problem. Nice job! I would also watch the hub shocker 2.0 video and purchase the tool. I will not even attempt a rear subaru replacement with out the tool. Heres the video. Please report back on your success or failure if you have the time. Good luck! 🤓 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
I just bought both rear bearings, rotors a d pade for 309 bucks off of " Rock Auto ? One bearing at the dealer was $279 without tax. DIY is saving a ton too. Thanks again for the video.
Thank you! Great information. The blame has to go somewhere 😂. Subaru- while we are performing the tsb, these wheel bearings should be replaced at the same time for good measure. haha. That kicks the can down the road further until the new wheel bearings go bad making it not their problem. Just spit balling here 😂. Anyone out there have the new wheel bearings last more miles, compared to before and after the backing plate change? The old press in bearings were common for 175-225k miles before failure. It would be wishful thinking to compare to that. But if the wheel bearings can regularly get over 100k miles with the new backing plate i would call that a win big time! 😃
FWIW, an easier way is to leave your four wheel bearing bolts threaded in just a few threads, then use the air hammer to drive the bearing out by alternating the air hammer crisscross style on each of the four bolts from the back side. This will push the wheel bearing out relatively easy.
Great tip! I know that trick very well. I find access a little tight to do that on rear of the Subarus. Have you had good luck doing it on rear of Subbies?
I would recommend removing the speed sensor- it is one bolt that holds it into the top of the housing. soak it in breakfree/ rust eater to make it pop out easier. Then if it is super rusty holding the bearing in just flood the cavity and space with the rust eater. I did not use a slidehammer because i did not want to snap the sensor off. You can also just pull the brake assbly off and not split off the caliper- saves a few moments. I also replaced with Moogs - hoping for the best! (17 forester)
By the way! Here is the solution your problems with any Subaru REAR wheel bearing. I will not even attempt a replacement with out this tool now. ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
came to the comments to say this. the FSM and other guides i've seen all emphasize pulling the sensor out first. its pretty much the easiest thing in the entire assembly to remove, so... yeah. just pull it out before you do anything else. other than that, great video, thanks.
You are correct. I should have tried removing it for sure. I have broken that fastener off many times in rusty Michigan, so i have learned to try without removal. Because of that, I am a little shy about pulling those out 😀🔧🔧
Nothing good comes from removing the sensor in Northern Ohio. The bolt head gets broken off, which is the worst case scenario. Or if you get the bolt out the sensor can't be freed without breaking it. Don't try taking out the sensor in a rust belt state. I'm speaking from experience! If you are planning to try and remove it, have a new sensor on hand.
nice video, ill change my front bearings on my subaru outback 2005, it has 310.000kms now. one front bearing is noisy, so ill replace both front bearings at the same time + outer left side cv boot
So is this similar set up to the 2005 wrx sti. I’m trying to buy the hub and wheel bearing and just have those four bolts to install. I know you said 2008 wrx sti but looks really similar to the 2005. If someone can chime in and give me some input I’ll appreciate it.
I just looked up your parts and it says you have press in style. But, if you have four bolts on the back side of the rear knuckle, then you should have the bolt in style. I am not sure if yours is an early build 2005 or not. That could be the problem. Subaru had some weird parts and application flaws for looking up some parts on 2001-2005 vehicles. I have gotten the wrong brakes parts on occasion for that range of vehicles. You should have the exact parts and procedure as the video though. 🔧🔧
Hey Rawwdawg! Have you purchased a newer subbie with bolt in bearings yet by chance? I wanted to share a new method I now use on all Subarus wheel bearing replacements. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. You should grab one of these tools if you ever need to replace another bearing. It is one of my favorite tools now 😀 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
I bought a 2014 Forester new. In Sept 2017 i had to replace the left rear bearing. Then in Aug 2018 i had the right rear replaced. Then in Dec 2018 i had the left rear replaced again. Now it is again the left rear bearing again which is bad and next week it is going to be replaced. What is causing these bearings to go bad??? I did not mind the first 3 because my extended warranty covered it. Now i have 118,000 miles on it and i have to eat the $400.00 to replace it. I called Subaru and they offered me a $1000.00 off my next purchase of a new Subaru or a $500.00 coupon off any Subaru service. I took the $1000.00 because i am at my summer home and there are no Subaru dealership in my area. When the next wheel bearing goes i plan on trading it in. Does anyone have the same problems like i had with their 2014.
Sorry to hear that. They are having major problems with their hub style bearings in the rear of all their vehicles. I have been installing mid grade bearings from skf and they seem to outlast the subaru bearings. This is a first for me. Usually Oem is heads and shoulders above anything else. I suspect a supplier problem, but who knows. Maybe its bad engineering. The good news is these repairs will get easier and cheaper as techs learn how to replace them easier. So the problem should become less and less significant. My hope is it will just be a minor irritation. Subaru's used to get 125-175k miles out of each bearing. So this is a drastic departure. The front bearings seem to do just fine, but rears are sub par. If you compare to the domestic big three manufacturers, the Subaru's are now about as good. Kinda defeats buying a Subaru. They will hopefully correct the problem in the 2020 new vehicle models coming out. Still worth buying in my opinion. Sorry you are having so much trouble. 🙃
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html Hey if you ever have to do another bearings, check this new video out would you? Let me know what you think. It's made my life so much better on the replacement side of things.
No problem! Sounds like it probably is a bearing. Have you seen the Hub shocker video I recently made? Its a wheel bearing removal tool. It is the easiest way to remove a Subaru Bearing in the rear, By a long long shot. You Should get one for your bearing replacement if you can. Amazon is usually 2 days out with them. It may be extremely difficult, especially if you live in the salt belt. Let me know how your project goes!
@@EasyFixShaun No. I will check it out. Yes in rust belt, Iowa. I have time to order because bought OEM parts online & slow to ship. Do you know torque specs for axle nut, hub bots, & caliper?
Ya you should get that tool for sure. I have done so many bearings I cant even count. These rear subbie bearings are in my “top three hardest to remove”. It’s because the tolerance are very accurate and tight on a subbie. Rust gets in between the bearing and knuckle and “rust jacks” them together. They stick so bad, it will seem as if you forgot to remove a mounting bolt. It will seem like it’s welded in! Very difficult and frustrating. Hub shocker makes it a breeze. On those specs I usually hand tighten most any bolt I’m not sure about as far as caliper bolts and bracket bolts. But the hub/axle nut front or rear is always between 145-180 roughly, on Subbies. I would google all that stuff and get your exact specs to be sure.
@@EasyFixShaun Finally got my bearing in place. I did buy the Hub Shocker but failed at removing it. I felt terrible banging on. I threw in towel & took to a shop. They removed the entire knuckle from car and cut out with torch they told me. In Iowa Winters they spray brine (salt & water) on streets to pretreat before storms. Not sure if this added to fusion. But in doing this I learned I need brake pads soon & will try that.
Oh man! I’m sorry. Ya it seems like you can hit it too hard but you gotta just do it. I will do a video using a sledge hammer to prove it. Heat is a great option if all else fails. Sorry about it not working. Hang on to that tool. The other side will likely need a bearing soon also and you can give it another go.
Did everything you recommend in video. Nothing, air hammer actually punched through the walls of the bolt holes. Wish I saw the Hub Puller video first. I'm all out of ideas, and now my hub bolts are wrecked. Short of welding a flange on both sides and threading a bolt to make a puller....
Heat will remove it. That is always my last resort because the gas tank is in the back and other things can be melted at the knuckle. I go straight for the hub shocker first now. I left the video up to give an option of normal replacement. Im sorry it didn’t work for you. The rear bearings on Subaru are the worst bearings I have ever dealt with. They stick so badly it’s hard to explain without seeing it. Stick with it if you can. You will get it eventually. “A man made it, a man can fix it”. You can do it.
Just Checking back in Ron. I'm really sorry it went bad for you. I have searched high and low for a solution to make these bolt on bearings slide off like they should. They are ridiculous. I made another video on the hub shocker and I solved all the issues I had with it. It worked good. But severely stuck bearings were giving it problems. Check out the new video and let me know what you think? This is how I do them all now. It is officially easy for me. ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Awsome! Thanks a lot. If you have any rust in the rear you will want to watch the shocker video. It is the best and only way to do the subaru rear bearings for me now. I do not use the chisel method anymore, it takes way too much time and is way too difficult. If you have time and are not stuck order the shocker. It is a life saver. Here is the video for it and how to mount and use it to keep the bearing together. IT IS AMAZING!!!!! 😃🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
@@EasyFixShaun Front's came out just fine. I've been beating on the rear passenger for 2 days now, with the hub shocker and a 12lb sledge. I'm going to have to take it somewhere for a press. This thing is stuck stuck
@@donnie1581 Oh man, nice work on the fronts. Sorry about those rears. They are brutal. I have had a few that tested the shocker and me but have been fortunate it has worked every time. I sometimes put a 6x6 under the knuckles in the rear to transfer more sledge hammer energy to break the rust bond. I don't blame you for bowing out. Don't feel bad, they are amongst the most challenging in the world to remove. Right up there with the Ford Explorers and Edges.Nice job trying though man. Don't feel bad. They suck. 😃
Ouch! Sorry to hear that. They are failing prematurely in my opinion. At least the hub shocker is making the replacements easier. Have you seen that video? ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Great Video! Got to do wife's 2011 Outback before vaca trip...Looking forward to that video on Press in style....I might have to do my 2007 Forester one day...An excellent video on those would be awesome help!!! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge that I'm finding a lot of shops want to overcharge for!! With knowledge from gracious folks like yourself,...Persistence and patience wins the race!
Thanks a lot man!! I really appreciate that. I had some personal stuff pop up but I am getting back on track here. Should have that press in style video out within 14 days. Did you see my video with the hub shocker? You may want to buy one of those for your bearing job. It’s by far the best method. Totally worth the money. These rear subbie bearing stick so bad! They are some of the worst I have ever dealt with. I’m pretty sure the shocker took was made for Subaru’s. It will help you out massively. Good tool to have around for all future Subbies you may own.
The bearing separated into two halves because it was so frozen. I thought it was a freak thing on the first bearing. Now I recognize it is the norm. These are the toughest bearings I have ever had to remove. But with 2 years of blood sweat and tears I have come up with a solution. These bearings now take me 20minutes. Here is a video of the procedure and tool I use. Life saver. Let me know what you think! ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
This video method could work on any bolt in style bearing. The hub shocker is a much better and easier method. If you have a ford the only solution is grade 8 bolts 😀🔧
I'm buying one if those "hub beater" tools whereby that bolt on to the hub using the lug nuts and have a heavy plate and bar extending out. You beat the bar with a 5lb hammer. Seems to work on these rusted in hub assemblies.
Hey Drew! Ive been perfecting my Hub shocker tool and here is the newest mounting method for the Subarus. It works awesome compared to ANY other way. Let me know what you think please!?? ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Is there anything special about the driver side rear wheel bearings on a 2016 Subaru Forester. For example will all four eventually fail? or will I just have problems with that one?
I would say that all wheel bearings do fail eventually. The rear bearings seem to fail prematurely on Subaru's right now. It is a real bummer, I have heard of some only making it 30K miles! Not a good situation, I hope they fix the problem. Subaru front bearings seem to last a "normal amount" of miles and time for bolt in style wheel bearings. I am sure you will have one or two fail if you put 100k miles on your Subaru. I would call that normal. Most likely both rears will fail. You may want to have a Hub shocker in your tool box for the rear bearing replacements. They are a life saver! I haven't seen bearings stick so badly in my life. I have a link in the description for that tool if needed.
Hey William! Here is an updated tool video that finally removes these bearings easily. The Hub Shocker 2.0 video solves mounting and separation issues with any Subaru bearings. ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Thank you! Those bearings can be a pain. Sometimes they don't want to come out. But stick with it. I hope the video helps you get it done! Let me know how it goes would you?
@@EasyFixShaun Just replaced both rear bearing hubs on my 2016 Outback, had no problems at all. I did not use Subaru bearings. My Subaru bearings failed at 67,000 miles, the Timken bearings in my old Ford F-150 failed at 230,000 miles. So, I installed Timken bearings, very smooth now, no noise in the rear!!
Hey did you ever replace your bearings? Would you like to watch the new video and compare my new method to how it went for you? Here is the video ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
My 2015 subaru had one bearing at 60k, and the other at 80k. This bearing assembly is one of the worst ideas in cars today. I just pulled out my hub from the housing with a slide hammer. I later watched someone just remove the sensor, leave the nut on the axle and they claim that would prevent the hub from pulling out. Thank you for your video, tomorrow I go buy a large air hammer! Theres still hope!
No problem. The other option-you could order a Hub Shocker Tool. Watch my 2.0 Hub Shocker video! You can install the hub back on temporarily for bearing removal with the cv-axle nut shown in the video. As long as there is enough cv axle threads sticking through you can use the nut to press it back together. Then thru bolt the bearing hub face with grade 8 fasteners through the removed lug studs holes. Hammer with 8lb sledge. This is how I do them all. It's the easiest way so far. They are a nightmare any other way to me. Sometimes the Shocker will pop out first hit, sometimes it takes 10 attempts. These replacements are soul destroying. Get the tool! Watch the video! Save yourself! Let me know if you have any questions. The video answers a lot of them though. Here you go! ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
The slide hammer seperated the hub from the bearing housing, so nothing to mount the shocker to any more. Much like this video. Air hammer does nothing. Think i need to remove the knuckle and press it out now. At this point, I am certain this design is one of the dumbest designs in auto history. You'd think Subaru would simply use antisieze in their assembly process.
I agree. They made the service of a wheel bearing hard. The bearings are bolt in. I guess they missed the concept. The problem though is corrosion. The bearings rust jack themselves in. There isnt enough clearance around the bearing to allow for rust jacking. A side note-i do know someone else besides me that used the cv axle nut sucessfully to pull the outer half of the bearing/hub back in with the cv axle nut. If that can be done the shocker can be used. If you can do that it is the easiest and fastest. It would be my first option to try at the point you are at. If it works- you could order the tool and come back to it. Make sure you get some grade eight bolts and a sledgehammer also. 😀🔧
I removed the whole knucke, put it in a 20 ton press, and it wouldnt budge. So, I applied heat with a torch to the area while in the press, still nothing. Then I heated it again, while still in the press, and hit it with an air impact from several sides, and it finally shot out of the knuckle. Its hard to comprehend that It was rusted in so tightly. What a beast.
The rear bearings don’t have to be pressed in? I know the front’s on my 05 STI come preassembled in the hubs but I thought the rears needed a press to get back in. So confused on the 05 STI because the info seems sparse.
In 2005 that year was a little bit of a split year and could have either a press-in style bearing or a bolt-in style bearing, depending on the model. The easiest way to tell instantly is to look on the inside of the knuckle where the cv-shaft goes through. If you see bolts it is a bolt in style bearing. If you do not have bolts, it is a press-in style. I have press in bearing videos to help with press-in style. ua-cam.com/video/P5bwlKKpusk/v-deo.html If you have bolt-in style bearings I have a Hub Shocker video to help get it out of the knuckle easily😃🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
@@gomezlgt5507 Nothing wrong with replacing the axle nut or recommending that. But I have worked in 5 shops. None replace axle nuts unless there is an actual reason. If the nut is torqued correctly it will never back off. I think people get a little nervous because the Subaru axle nut has the lock nut "re-staking" rim on it. It's a Myth. As long as the threads are in good shape. Re-use as many times as you want.
I agree. I usually don't even replace them. If I did it would be the only thing on the car not rusted. haha. Rust is the worst thing ever for mechanics.
Thank you! Hey if you want to do these rear bearings the easy way, check out my new video on them and buy this tool! ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
You are welcome. They easiest way to do this repair is using the hub shocker. It is the only way I will attempt any rear subaru bearing now. Here is my video link 😃🔧ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
So I broke my abs sensor and ordered a new one, won't be here for a few days though. The car drove but had the check engine and abs sensor lights on cause of the sensor being broken. However i filled up gas at the station and my car wouldn't turn on! Go it boosted and then it went into complete limp mode... All my lights started flashing but i was able to drive it home. Then on my driveway my car started rolling backward when it was on drive my foot wasn't on gas or brake. Do you know what could be wrong? Driveway is uphill
Hi Kyle. A lot of weird symptoms there that don’t match an abs sensor. The lights flashing almost sounds like a security system problem from battery disconnect. Sometimes that will happen if the battery dies also. Maybe all of that is tied to just a work out or dead battery? The shifting issue seems weird also. I don’t know how that could be related but I think I would start with battery replacement if needed. Scan all of the computers and check for diagnostic codes and go from there. I don’t think the abs sensor will cause any of those problems. But replace that also. Keep me posted. What year is your car?
@@EasyFixShaun it is a 2013 forester. It was on a jack on the driver side for 6days, while I replaced the knuckle + Balljoint + wheel hub. When i started the car it took a few cranks but it turned on and looked like the battery was weak. The abs and check engine light were on because of the sensor. Drove to the gas station to fill up my tank, and then the car wouldn't start. So i got it boosted, and then almost all the dash lights came on. It started ideling very rough and wasn't moving when it was in D, i had to press the gas for it to move forward even a little bit. So I Drove it home and then it died/turned off once i put it into park on the driveway. I'll wait for the abs sensor to come in so I can replace that, and then i will check the battery.
I am really confused about what's going on but I think I would try a hard reset to the computers on the car by disconnecting the battery. I think low battery voltage may have caused them to go haywire. That would be my best guess to what is going on since the abs sensor would have no effect on transmission shifting. Kind of a weird one. Stick with it and try that and replace your abs sensor. Work your way that direction and hopefully some of these weird issues will be chalked up to just a glitch in the computer from low battery voltage. 😀
@@EasyFixShaun So I finally got it working. first replaced the abs sensor, which also helped the car not freak out and turn the radiator fans on for no reason. I then replaced the car battery with a new one because the other one was old and hadn't been replaced since god knows when. (I've only had this vehicle since 2019 June). I then turned had to do the idle relearn procedure which helped with the low rpm/engine stalling out. The car is finally fixed drove it around town yesterday to make sure. Also, Thanks a lot for your help and your video! its a great video explaining how to do everything,! thanks again!
Excellent job sticking with it man. Thats so crazy how much the abs sensor threw the entire system for a loop. Glad you got your ride back up and running! 😀
@@EasyFixShaun thanks for your reply! that's amazing. I got same situation in your video, the bolts part is removed by slide hammer, but the root still stick. Can you provide me more advice about it? thanks
no problem. If you can get it to spin in the housing it will come out. I did it with an air hammer. It took a while. It really sucked fir me. That is what lead me to the shocker. There is a truck in the shocker video where you can pull the hub back in and then use the shocker. That is what i would do if you can. These bearings are horrible replacements. Sorry you are having trouble.
No problem! Check out my HUB SHOCKER 2.0 video. I have two videos on it. That is now the only tool I will use on Subaru rear wheel bearings. Any other method is futile and a waste of my time on rear subbie bearings. They are that difficult. And the shocker is that good 😀
Cheap if you install it yourself. $600 if you have the dealer install one. I guess everything is relative. I would rather install an expensive one that will hopefully last vs do the job twice. These bearings suck.
Hey Mr Slicer2424! Here is the new method I now use on all Subarus wheel bearing replacements. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
$550-$600 each at the dealership. I think most aftermarket shops are the same unless they haven’t done one. If they haven’t done one they are likely to estimate $2-300 each. After the first one they will be much higher most likely.
Hi Bill. Here is a new tool and method on how to replace these ridiculous bearings. I would say with the new video methods it is now easy for me. Hopefully you don't have to replace your bearings again. But if you do, check this video out and and let me know what you think?ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
When you tighten the axle nut using a crow bar, do you risk damaging threads on the lugs? I was also thinking of using longer bolts, and if the bearing separates, use longer bolts to attach the slide hammer and remove the base.
I missed your second question. Yes you could try the longer bolt method. That could work great, especially if you can attach a slide hammer to them very securely. I think that may be where the problem would be. attaching to the inside and hammering is a very effective method but there just isn't any room to hammer without damaging something else. My go to method is the Hub Shocker. Its the best way on the rear of any Subaru. Hub Shocker ua-cam.com/video/09Zz4JLC0zM/v-deo.html
@@EasyFixShaun HI, I bought new rear bearing hubs (NTN), bolts, axle nuts, and a hub shocker. I planning on replacing this weekend. Any other tips before I start?
@@joepinehill Hi Joe! Do it just like in the second update video. I am not sure if you saw it or not. Through bolt your hub only. And if it is super stubborn and the bearing comes apart use the cv axle nut trick in the video to hold it all together temporarily. Other wise it will separate and be 20x more difficult. Good luck! 🔧😃 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
The music's kind of annoying, but thanks for the video! I got the front half of the bearing off and got stuck... I was thinking about the air hammer, but unsure of the best way to hit it. The slide hammer sure wasn't doing much good anymore after it got the wheel flange off.
I usually air hammer using the old bolt holes only. In the video you can see me trying to twist the old bearing. If you can get it to twist it will come right out. If that doesn’t work you will want to just remove the knuckle and press the bearing out to save damaging anything. Its extra work but totally doable. Once on a press it will pop right out. Accessing the bearing with the force needed to remove it on the car is the hardest part of the repair with these. The hub shocker solves all of that. But you have to use that tool from the start. Once the bearing is separated you can not use that tool anymore. You need to just keep going and “piece mealing” until it’s fully removed.
*Peter I thought about this overnight and I actually think you would be able to use the Hub shocker still! It isn't too late. I haven't done this before so I am sorry I didn't think of it sooner. I think you could reinstall the outer hub portion back into the inner hub on the knuckle by using the cv axle shaft and nut as a puller to reinstall the hub. The job of the cv shaft is to hold the bearing together so it will work just fine as long as you have enough room to thread the nut on to pull it back into place. Once it is back in place, loosen the nut a few rounds and remove the abs sensor so you don't break that. Install the Hub Shocker and smash away until it pops out!*
@@EasyFixShaun Hey man, that's not a bad idea... Really appreciate you coming back to give me advice. I got the punch for the air hammer today but haven't used it yet. If I get the darned thing back on I'll order myself a shocker and let you know how it goes. Never pass up a good excuse to buy a new tool, I always say!
@@EasyFixShaun Hi, yeah so reattaching the hub turned out to be pretty easy. I just slid it on. Had to put a block of wood on it and give it a few love taps with my 3 lb hammer to get the CV axle spindle in far enough so that I could catch some threads with the nut. Then I used my impact gun to fasten it back on. I think it's important that the rear wheels are both in the air so the axle spins freely and you're not putting pressure on the diff with the impact. The impact spins the nut on faster than the axle can spin. I'll be ordering the hub shocker now to see how it goes!
Excellent man! No problem. The shocker should work. Get some washers and extra lug nuts. regular acorn style nuts with no through cap are best. size is 12mm-1.25 for the nuts. You may want to remove the abs sensor and leave the nut on the cv axle. Sensor could break. And the nut on the cv axle will help keep the bearing together until the tool can do its work and pop it out. I am just a little worried since you removed the outer it may not stay together as well as if you hadn't disturbed it. It should hopefully work though. My biggest hurdle is keeping lug nuts on the tool. It has so much power they strip. Buy a few extras! 😀
*_HUB SHOCKER TOOL FOR SUBARU REAR BEARINGS!!!_* ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
This is now the only way I will replace a rear bolt-in style Subaru wheel bearing. Save yourself the pain of doing these the hard way. 🔧🔧
🚀 $29 ASTRO TOOLS "LAST CHANCE" WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL KIT can supplement or replace the Hub Shocker. Probably the ultimate removal tool. I have tested it. It is amazing! Great tool to have in your box! EASILY REMOVES the worst of the worst. Works on Subaru's and Ford Explorer/Ford Edge/Escape/and others. Impossible bearing removal solved without knuckle replacement 😃🔧
Astro 78834 amzn.to/3JgbSYf
*_New sway bar link video_* ua-cam.com/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/v-deo.html
*_Wizard Subaru Timing belt trick:_* ua-cam.com/video/WGZOXrIq2Q8/v-deo.html
Hub shocker didn't work for me. All it did was pull the hub out of the bearing assembly.
This is probably the best Subaru wheel bearing video for the rust belt I've seen.
No way! Thanks man.
HUB SHOCKER VIDEO ua-cam.com/video/09Zz4JLC0zM/v-deo.html
You made this look A LOT easier than I’m sure it’ll be for me! Great demonstration and explanation!
Glad it was helpful! These replacements are absolutely brutal. Did you see the hub shocker? Get the tool and do it just like the second video... save yourself....it is not worth doing any other way...get the tool....the hard way is not worth it....😃🔧
Video-
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Tools-
$75 ATD-8629 Hub shocker: amzn.to/3B4S9rs
LTI Shocker LT830A: amzn.to/3dMQFq9
8 Pound Sledge Hammer: amzn.to/30rx6Qe
Astro 78834 amzn.to/3JgbSYf
Most concise video on this topic, Great job. I got the first one out (passenger side) by threading in the bearing bolts part way and hammering with an impact socket and old 1/2" extension. Worked good for passenger side (no exhaust in the way) Drivers side is being more stubborn because I can't get a good swing on the hammer. Now looking for air hammer. God bless, stay well.
Excellent job man! They are a pain. If you can suffer through them you are officially a mechanic! haha. On your next one get a hub shocker. Pops them out like butter. I have another video on it and amazon links if you need them 😀
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html Hey! Let me know if you like this method would you? It is the only way I do rear Subaru bearings now and is much much easier than air hammering. I would say the replacements are now easy for me.
I was just curious, can the sensore be removed before disassembling ? I have a 2016 Crosstrek is the Outback different. Ive always removed these sensores. Just curious.
Yup you should always remove the sensors. I should have mentioned my reason behind not removing. Sorry about that. The only reason i don't remove them is the fastener breaks where I live from rust usually. Or the sensor has to be destroyed to remove it, also from rust jacking. So i usually risk it and leave it in. If I'm successful in not damaging it, I'm good to go. If i damage it, then i just replace it, and drill the bolt if it breaks, yada yada 😀. If you are doing a rear subaru wheel bearings i highly recommend you watch my two Hubshocker videos. It's a great tool and the best way i have found to do rear Subbie wheel bearings.
Nice video. I liked your technique with the air hammer breaking it loose rotationally. Was there a reason you just didn't pull the ABS sensor out?
They usually break because of corrosion where i live, so i risk leaving them in sometimes. Sorry about that.
Nice video. I really liked your technique using the air hammer to break the bearing loose in the rotational axis. Was there a reason you just didn't remove the ABS sensor to be safe?
Thanks! Ya the abs sensors where i live corroded so badly they are almost guaranteed to break. So if it seems it may break i take the risk of not removing and not breaking it vs certain breakage on removal. It works 9/10 times in my favor usually.
"(Subaru bearings) are actually not that expensive surprisingly..." Sorry to say I've come from 3.5 years in the future, and during this crazy parts shortage, an oem bearing is about $500CAD. 🤯
This video may be exactly what I needed to get this wheel bearing done in the driveway though, luckily I have a decent air hammer.
haha! I am glad it helped you out! If you ever need to do another one, here is the way I do rear Subaru bearings now 😃🔧ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
I'd pull that ABS sensor to prevent damage - a 10mm bolt is all that holds it in place. I've just pulled the knuckle and removed the bearing/hub with the knuckle off the car - easier than screwing around beating/vibrating the bearing attached to the suspension - four 17mm nuts and it's off. Rear of the bearing is fully exposed and a few whacks with a 4# hand sledge and it's out. This also allows complete corrosion removal of the contact area in the knuckle for the new bearing - I used Acid Magic for this to remove 11 years of rust layers. YMMV.
I should have removed the abs sensor. I had major rust and the tiny bolts often break were I am at. I took the risk not removing rather than break the bolt. Your method will work great though if that is your preference. Make sure you perform an alignment and adjustment for the alignment bolts that were disturbed and removed on knuckle removal 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun As corroded as that ABS sensor retaining bolt was, a little shot of Kroil and I rocked it out pretty easily. The only problem was the upper control arm pinch bolt and the slipping out the ball joint from the knuckle. Eh, Kroil was my friend and it only took around 45 minutes (including removing the parking brake guts) to get the knuckle off. In general, the corrosion was as bad as I'd ever seen shipboard in the Navy. The new bearing couldn't be inserted into the bearing even after scraping/wire brushing. That ferrous oxide would polish up bright and shiny but I had a .003 interference fit - Acid Magic (inhibited hydrochloric) removed that after a 12 hour soak. Your video was great and a big help for likely 90% of folks...I'm in that cursed 10%.
Glad to help out. Have you seen the Hub Shocker 2.0 video? It is the only way I replace subaru rear bearings now 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Yep, ATD-8629. I have one. Beat on it with overhead strokes of my sledge. And used heat/Kroil. For an entire day. Then pulled the knuckle.
I am sorry it didn't work. They seem to be getting harder and harder to remove. Did you mount with through bolting grade 8 bolts?
Don't own a Subaru but i enjoy watching hard stuff! Nice job
Thank you 🤝
@easyfix. Would removing the abs sensor and spraying pb blaster down the hole help get the spray into the stuck area?
Could help. Anything can help for sure. The sensor rides on the back of the bearing. I am not sure if the sensor hole is exposed the bearing/knuckle mount surface. If it is it could help tremendously. Hard to tell though. Every one i take apart is stuck with force that feels like the bearing is still bolted in. That rust bond is incredibly strong. Let me know if that helps any! 😀
I know you say 2005 and listed other vehicles that and newer, but would this approach work on a 2002 Subaru Impreza wrx?
Those are pies in bearings in your 2002. I have an Awsome "press in bearing video 2.0" that is the video you want. Check out my playlist. I demonstrate it on an 2002 wrx 😀🔧🔧
I replace the knuckle after 2 failed attempts. Have not been able to get these late model Outback bearings out. Knuckle isn't that much money. I've done hundreds of these Suby bearings, they are garbage.
Hey fRed Neckerson! I wanted to share a new method I now use on all Subarus wheel bearing replacements. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. You should grab one of these tools if you ever need to replace another bearing. Its like one of my favorite tools now 😀ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
For anyone having trouble getting the bearing out, I tried everything but don't have a skookum enough air hammer or something. What I finally did, luckily I kept two opposing holes undamaged, I took two short lengths of pipe, cut a notch out of one end so they fit over the threaded bearing flange, put an M12x1.25 bolt through each with a stack of washers, and just walked it right off. I spent hours trying to get it off with other methods and it never moved. Once I got this idea, it took about 10 minutes to make the tools out of pipe and about 5 minutes to walk the bearing out.
Great idea man!
@@EasyFixShaun Here's a quick writeup with a photo. I was too tired and frustrated to make a video at the time and the car is gone and the old part in the bin by now. www.dragonflydiy.com/2019/05/removing-stubborn-wheel-bearing.html
@@John_Ridley Ugh. Doing this job right now and we're headed to the hardware store to use this tip. Everything went super smoothly, surprisingly for our rusty area, except for getting the actual bearing housing out. Hope we can get it to work!
@@John_Ridley Gotta tell you, really saved our asses. We had to go to the hardware store and get two SIX DOLLAR bolts to do the job. I cut two stands like you showed out of conduit piping. Then I used the plate from my hub pulling slide hammer as the upper support and pulled the hell out of that bearing carrier. We barely got it to crack and it flared out the thin walled piping. Then we found some slightly thicker square tubing and made two more stands out of that. Even beating on both bolts with an air impact gun and then sledge hammering the hell out of the carrier, it still took us probably 30 minutes to get the sucker out. Wow! The car is actually very clean and no rust on most fasteners, but that was the rustiest part we encountered by far. Thanks again!
Hey John! Here is the new method I now use on all Subarus wheel bearing replacements. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. You should grab one of these tools if you ever need to replace another bearing. Its like one of my favorite tools now 😀ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
hold on, if a Subaru bearing is so superior, why are we replacing one? Actually maybe millions since 2005!
Good point. It's the best there is. Even though they junk. Its likely made in Japan. A second choice for me is timken in the durability department 😀🔧
"use Subaru bearings". You've got to be kidding. I've never seen a vehicle that blows bearings like these Subaru's. There's thousands of people complaining about bad bearings and having them replaced, many multiple times no less, with 10K, 30K, 50K miles on them. WTF Subaru ???
Subaru ABSOLUTELY has a problem. No car should be going thru bearings like this. Bad design, poor manufacturing, whatever it is Subaru definitely has a problem.
I totally agree man. We are at their mercy until someone sells us a better bearing. And to top it all off, a lot of the replacements are e x c r u c I a t I n g l y difficult.
@@EasyFixShaun, well I just ordered "SKF Rear bearings". They offer the longest warranty, even better than Moog's 3 yr/36K mile warranty, and cost closer to Timkin at $95.00 a hub assembly. Moog are expensive as hell at $140.00 or so. SKF are supposed to be premium bearings, exceeding OEM, so I'm going to try um. Have read great things about um. I'll follow up and let you know.
@@Drewg351 - any news about what you decided to go with ? Level of satisfaction? I’m ready to replace all of my 2015 Outback 3.6 bearings ( rear and front). Thanks for your help !
@@mar1video, I used SKF bearings and it's coming up on 1 year and I haven't had ANY problems with them. I'd definitely recommend SKF. When you see the bearing, you'll see it's quality. It's made in Japan so you know it's good quality. Price wise SKF runs around $100.00 a bearing and has the longest guarantee. That's why I choose them. I'm very satisfied and will use them in the future for sure.
@@Drewg351 - great news, thanks for sharing. What is your source (if US)? Did you change anything else (like struts) when you were working on your bearings?
Thanks again for your response ! Helps me (and hopefully others) go in a right direction (away from OEM) with parts.
Hey you could've use a 10mm and remove the abs sensor.....would've been lot simpler
True. I live in the rust belt and many times the abs sensor bolts snap off. It's frustrating not being able to remove that bolt. But here, you learn not to make life harder from snapped bolts when possible. Otherwise i would have gladly removed it for you 😀🔧
Thanks but not many of us have air hammers that big. But it helped knowing I had to go to pound town.
Right on! Air hammers are a luxury for sure. For future use, here is the new way to do it. I don't use the air hammer at all. This is the ONLY way. These hub shockers are about $85 and it is the only way to do ANY rear bolt in Subaru wheel bearing. These hubs are excruciating to replace any other way. I hope this helps you and everyone else watching this video 😃🔧ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
My GOD! How long have these been needing replacement?
I live in Canada, Winnipeg, Manitoba to be exact.
My '05 Outback was making noise for a couple years and I knew it was the right rear bearing...typical for Winnipeg with all the potholes..lol
When I replaced it there was no play in the wheel, just the noise.
So, I can just imagine how long that wheel bearing was gone for...5, 10 years?
Cost me 160.00 plus tax to replace it and now it is quiet as a mouse.
Wheel bearings can fail and be loose and/or noisy. So they can have either symptom or both, in any order. It's crazy how they can fail. I am so glad you got yours fixed up and running smooth again in Winnipeg! What a beautiful place 😃🔧
'Price isn't too bad' $200ish rear bearing from subaru vs $80 for a timken which is a well known bearing manufacterer. I don't know a lot of diyers who would opt for $400 just for rear bearings when a very good bearing manufacturer has units for $160 available.
Yup I agree. Timken is far superior to any manufacturer. I chose Subaru in this case but Timken would have been a better choice. Check out this video! I only remove them this way now. 😃ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Don't know why anyone would recommend Subaru wheel bearings after having to remove defective factory ones. I have now replaced 2 rear bearings on a 2014 Outback with only 125Kmiles!! I am over 60 and have had dozens of cars all high mileage and have NEVER EVER had to replace a wheel bearing until I bought a Subaru! Subaru parts are junk. I wouldn't mind if they were cheap and didn't have to be removed with a sledge hammer. Aftermarket parts much better.
Just did this on a 14 forester at work. Whaled on it for 40 mins...fuck the rust belt.
The rust belt sucks!
"I use Subaru's bearings cause they don't fail very often."
I don't know what Subarus you are working on, but I've seen 2012s that needed 3 and mileage was average for the year. With old Subarus that was not much of an issue, but they must have done some cost cutting with the newer ones....
Yup you are right. Typically Subaru bearings is a no-brainer way to get maximum durability. I apologize for making that statement. Somehow they now have a big problem with the quality of their rear bearings. I could speculate why. I think they are probably not making their bearings in Japan. It’s sad because like you said they used to be awsome and last a long long time. I still haven’t found a solution for a better bearing. I use the Subaru bearings or tinken right now to try to squeeze out as many miles as possible until someone makes a better bearing.
@@EasyFixShaun I did read good things about the Moog bearing, but I also went with Timkin for now.
Excellent! I have also now used several brands and I’m hoping to report back soon what one has failed first. Can you keep everyone posted on how your bearing is doing please?
@@EasyFixShaun yeah no problem, I guess I'll answer on the other "thread" though.
Great video. Good to get a visual before I perform the same repair.
I'd suggest applying heat along with running the air hammer. Helping the metal expand will save you a lot of fighting with it. I use a bernzomatic torch w/map gas and it always helps.
Thanks for making this!
Thanks man! That is a great Idea. I left the abs sensor in so I didn't want heat in there. I will try that next time for sure. Did you see my "hub buster" video? You may want to just get that tool for your Subaru. Especially if you haven't done one. They are so stubborn on the rear of the Subarus. The tool is well worth the money. I do these a lot. Not one has been easy. With the Hub buster tool, it is no problem. :)
@@EasyFixShaun I just checked it out. Great tool! Yeah as long as you stay clear of things like sensors, rubber boots etc with direct heat you should be good as long as you're careful. Basically if there's a remote chance rust is going to make life difficult I hit the part/assembly with heat, PB blaster and a few hammer shocks before anything. Throw a hub buster tool in there and those hubs don't stand a chance!
I like your style man. Haha!
Hey Beantube! Would you mind checking out the new video and method I now use on all Subaru rear wheel bearings and let me know what you think? ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
I have three years of auto parts work under my belt. I am going aftermarket bearing. We gave the Subaru folks a shot with the stock vehicle and that is why we have to replace it in the first place. And yes, aftermarket quality is all over the board, so you have to buy smart.
Good call. If the oem bearings are failing prematurely its worth a shot! 😀😀
You (and one other home mechanic) recommend only using Subaru hubs, due to aftermarket ones having quality issues or non-functioning reluctor rings, etc. Yet the majority of forums I've read suggest that Timken (OEM Subaru supplier) hubs tend to be "soft" and fail prematurely. I'm looking at two right now that started whining at just over 37,000. It would be nice to know of a reliable alternative brand or model in this case.
Your best bet right now is Subaru or Timken bearings. Both are known to be the best. There is nothing better. They are having premature failures everywhere. No solution yet that I know of. Kinda sucks.
I wanted to share a new method I now use on all Subarus wheel bearing replacements. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. You should grab one of these tools if you ever need to replace another bearing. It is one of my favorite tools now 😀 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
You can’t remove the 12mm bolt from the abs sensor? Good video
I was scared because of rust. They break off sometimes where i live. I should have removed it 😀🔧
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html *_Watch NEXT- Subaru Wheel Bearing Removal using a HUB SHOCKER/ HUB BUSTER 2.0.(second video on the hub shocker). I have solved all the removal issues of any Subaru rear wheel bearings. Solved all tool mounting issues and bearing separation issues. I can say these Subaru rear bearing replacements are now truly easy for me._*
He man, I am sorry for the delay, your comment got held for review for some reason. For Bearing assemblies the dealer is surprisingly cheap, plus those are the best option. I have been getting more and more there. Made in Japan is what you want if possible to last the longest. Koyo would be my second choice, they make a lot of bearings for Subaru. Timken would be my third choice.
@De Oppresso Liber Do you have a Subaru Dealer there? Sometimes for bearings they are the last place most people go. I think they are reasonable. Maybe they are a set price even though in Hawaii and still cheap?
@De Oppresso Liber That isn't too bad. I would go with the Subbie ones for sure. They are twice as durable as anything else out there.
Hey GlassOpper11b I forgot to ask, bearings holding up ok so far that you ended up using? Its been a year now. Hopefully they worked out!
Got a 98 legacy worst design ever the new wheel bearing won’t go into the shoe
This video is bolt in style wheel bearings. You should have press in style wheel bearings on your car. Here is a video that shows the basic idea of press in replacement 😃🔧ua-cam.com/video/P5bwlKKpusk/v-deo.html
The longer I own my 2017 forester the less I like it. Rear hubs went at 50,000 mi and from what I read, I can expect it to happen again. This is a middle Florida car. No salt, no snow. Out of warrenty soon. Oh my...
Yea. Sadly they have started to drop the ball. If it gets any worse i may consider not driving them any more also. 50k bearings is appalling. It is from cheap parts. They know how to make them last and subaru is now going backwards.
Bought my 2017 Subaru new and had both rear wheel bearings fail at 19,000 miles and replaced at dealer under warranty, now at 46,000 miles, both failed again. Replaced with after market, SKF brand - no more Subaru OEM parts for me! I'm also looking to get rid of it as well since the Subaru independent shop also said this is a common issue as it's something to do with the geometry of the rear suspension. There needs to be a recall for this.
Subaru didn't design the suspension well. The CV axles and wheel bearings don't last long at all. How's your aftermarket bearing doing? @@frankanthony9793
Just did this on my Subaru. One of the rear bearings was soo bad we had to remove the hub and press it out. Almost maxed out a 20 ton press before it finally broke loose
WOW! Did you try a hub shocker? That has saved me.....so far.....😃
I didn’t realize that was a thing! We were using a slide hammer. I’ll keep that in mind for when I need to do the fronts
Here's a video! ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
“Go ahead and tighten your nutz” lol
Really like your videos man, very thorough which is very important to talk about details for noobs with bearings as myself. I wish my ‘01 Forester had a bolt-in bearing. I’ll follow your other video for help pressing it in for older models. Great video 👍🏻
Haha! Thanks man I’m glad I could help. “If a man made it, a man can fix it”. Trying to help you get from point a to point b. 🎃
My axel nut is completely rusted on, I broke my breaker bar trying to get it off. Gonna have to take it to the shop for this one :(
That doesn't happen too often but I have seen it several times. I repaired one by cutting the cv axle and unbolting the bearing and sliding out the cv axle remaining in the bearing. I was able to replace just the bearing and cv axle. The corrosion just locks/welds them together. I have been there and it sucks. You could use a sawzall to cut the axle shaft on the backside of the wheel bearing. Sorry you are having trouble. A couple others needed the bearing, the cv axle and also the knuckle. But you shouldn't need to do that on a Subbie 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun thanks for the insight!
Thank you for the video. Quite helpful. Just wondering why you didn’t remove the ABS sensor to begin with.
I was lazy. Sometimes i don't try to remove them because of rust. The corrosion causes the bolts that hold the sensor to break off in a lot of cases. So if the replacement can be done by not disturbing it i usually try not to touch it 😀
@@EasyFixShaun that makes a lot of sense. Thank you for the response. I wasn’t critiquing your video by any means. I am getting ready to do this job on both sides (rear) and I have seen as many folks leave them in as not. I asked you the question specifically since you appear to have experience and explain things clearly and concisely. I am hoping that corrosion won’t be as much of an issue for me here in Virginia. Again, thank you for what you do.
Thank you! No problem glad to help. When loosening them fasteners it's a feel thing for me. But sometimes they fool me too. Usually they either break free or break off! I try to avoid breaking them if I can so that I don't have to spend more time repairing the abs sensor than I do on the wheel bearing replacement 😃 @@peteparker708
definitely the best video I've seen on this! Thanks for your hard work and clarity on this topic!
Thank you! That bearing was hard and video of was even harder.
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html Hey would you mind checking this new video out and let me know what you think? Because I do so many of these bearings and they are so miserable, I was looking for a better way. I found a better tool. It is now the only way I will replace Subaru rear bearings.
Top notch video! I'm truly jealous of your video skills!
Thank you! I will make a video showing you how to do it!! 🎞🎬
HUB SHOCKER VIDEO ua-cam.com/video/09Zz4JLC0zM/v-deo.html
Has anyone come across red loctite from the factory on the bearing bolts? They were impossible to move (rounded the impact socket) until I had my wife hold the propane torch on them while I used the impact wrench.
Ugly? I had hideous with salt and sodium chloride brine fused hubs! Started with hammer until hub began to separate. On to air hammer...bearing assembly just laughed at it. From the back, or from the front trying to rotate...nothing. Made a slide hammer with 5/8th threaded rod welded to a 14mm x 1.5 lug bolt. a 10lbs (4.5kg) cast iron weight. Hammered all 4 bolt hole corners, moving the entire car each blow...liberal doses of PB Blaster over 3 days...not even a crack. The only plus here was my weld held. Truly shocked this was not enough to budge the assembly. I watched the linked "Hub shocker" video (one is on it's way) but to save time I welded an 18" length of 2" black pipe inside the bearing housing after removing the outer seal and BBs. 2" pipe (about 2.3" od) gave a nice tight fit on the inside with a manageable gap to fill and weld on the outside. Took three healthy strikes with a 3lbs maul, but it did pop off finally, with the backing plate and flange still attached. Back to the air hammer and torch to fairly easily remove the flange and backing plate. I'll wait for the hub shocker tool to do the other side, but in a pinch the 2" pipe worked great, the downside is it requires a weld. The damage and maintenance nightmares caused by winter salt/brine de-icers never fail to surprise me.
Man I feel your pain. A lot of people do! These hubs are so incredibly difficult. Especially with even a small amount of corrosion. I live in Michigan where corrosion and rust is a way of life. It sucks. I do them easily now with the Hub Shocker. Links in description! I also made a video on the best way to mount it to the bearing for removal. HUBSHOCKER 2.0 works every single time.
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Shows how to hold the outer flange from coming loose with the cv-axle nut, and bolt the tool onto the hub. THERE IS NO BETTER WAY TO DO THESE REAR BEARING REPAIRS. PLEASE GET A HUB-SHOCKER AND SAVE YOURSELF! DO IT THE EASY WAY. WATCH THE SECOND VIDEO. IT'S BEEN FLAWLESS FOR ME 😀
Forget the slide hammer. Just leave one bolt halfway in and then push on it with the air hammer. Makes the bearing pop out very easily.
Great idea! I have used that method many many times on the front of jeeps and dodge trucks. I need to try it on a Subaru.
Here is the new method I use on all Subarus. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
On my 2014 Impreza I used a 1/4 NPT tap on holes after removing the bolt. Be sure to thread the tap almost all the way in for strong threads The hole is the right size for tapping.
Then install four 1/4 NPT plugs. Finally I used bolts from the front to jack the hub out. I had some 3/8x3/4 pins to put in the holes so I could use the mounting bolts. Take your time and turn each bolt a little at a time. And I used a slide hammer to remove the flanges first. But with the right length bolts you can leave the flanges in. Before you get the bearing housing completely out use a 3/8 punch to loosen the backing plates some.
Nice work 😀🔧
Just did both on a 13 Outback. Had to remove the knuckle and send them out to be pressed out they were so seized.
Omg. Watch this video if you ever need to do them again. The tool is called the hub shocker. This is the only way I will do Subaru's now 😃🔧🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
@@EasyFixShaun THANKS, BUT I ACTUALLY TRIED WITH THAT TOOL AS WELL WITH NO AVAIL.
If you do it like the 2nd video link I shared with you it will work every single time. The second video solves tool mounting issues and bearing seperation issues on your exact vehicle. Easy to follow. It is perfect for Subaru's in every way. I am sorry it did not work out for you the first time. I had a few issues also so I solved the problem and made a follow up video. I hope that helps 😃🔧🔧
They don't fail very often, lol. Both my rears went out within a year of each other. My car just has 60k on it now.
I was sooo wrong on that one. Sorry about that. For some reason I hadn't really seen one up until that point. Maybe a couple previously but not enough where I saw a trend. Ya these rear bearings suck. They don't last and replacement can be horribly difficult. I have found the best guaranteed way to get them out easily. I made a video about it. Check it out in case you need to do them again 🤓🔧🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
@@EasyFixShaun first two are done under warranty so at least I was good there in the next one's probably will be under warranty as I have a lifetime warranty agreement so I guess we'll just wait and see
Oh that’s nice. Warranty saved you a bundle and all the hassle of putting these in. Now with the shocker, if you need to do it it will be easy. Subaru’s are great cars. They have some issues for sure, but less issues than most overall. You should hopefully be good for a while 😀🔧🔧
THESE BEARINGS FALL APART LIKENO OTHER , I SELL USED SUBARUS, I HAVE HAD TO PUT BEARINGS IN 75% OF THE CARS ALWAYS IN THE REAR FOR SOME REASON , CHINESE BEARINGS IS MY GUESS
I agree. How do you remove them? Do you have rust issues?
Thanks for the video... On google search, the video showed up as 'Easy Fix' and I watched it excitingly hoping something like WD-40 was going to fix the noise from the wheels.. 😂 🤣. Clearly a non-mechanic like myself has to take it to a third-party shop.. The dealers are quoting way too much, $C815 + 13% tax for each side!
Sorry about that! The channel name is easy fix 😂. I wish they were easier. Bolt in style bearings help usually because they just bolt in. Put the best bearings in you can. If you do it should be the last time. Press in bearings usually last a long time from Japanese manufacturers😀🔧
Amazing video - I thought I was in real trouble when the hub puller just broke the bearing in half & it was still rusted - especially helpful that you said to stick with it - will work eventually - took 20 minutes for you - that was spot on! Thanks a million!
Glad it helped 😀😀😀
In the rust belt/ I would have taken a cookie wheel to the mating surface and be very careful with a wire wheel on the inside, spray it with some fluid film and torque it down, Nice video though, gives me another option for subaru wheel bearings.. Thanks
Good tip!😀😀
Sadly, I have a 2002 Impreza 2.5TS, which is also an Outback Sport. Would 2005+ knuckles bolt in so I wouldn't have to mess with press in bearings anymore?
That is great outside the box thinking! I have no experience doing that though. I feel like it would be way to complicated to work easily. I would check forums to see if it has been done before. Helpful for some insight into your project 😀🔧🔧
4 hours of beating, shearing off a 1/2" grade 8 bolt I was using to press off, it was like winning the world Cup when the assembly broke free.
Victory!! Well Done 😃😃
For Next time.... ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
there are a million ways to skin the proverbial cat. some things others have shared with me i will share with you. you bashed on the disc a bit there, if you are tossing it you can flip it 180 degrees, reinstall the nuts and then use it like the "hubbuster" tool you mentioned in another comment. another way since you busted out the air hammer is to barely back out the 4 bolts holding it to the knuckle and then use your hammer on the heads of the bolts, pushing the hub out. i really like heat, just what i have come up with and old habits ya know. i really dislike using a slide hammer and breaking them to pieces still in the knuckle! thank you for sharing your method!
All good points. This method will work but it is difficult and many people find themselves in this exact situation. These Subarus are excruciating to replace. The only method that works well for me now is the Hubshocker. Here is the video😃🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Just simply amazing.....you have best way in removing stubborn Subaru wheel hub and bearing assembly. You used a slide hammer to separate the assembly in two pieces and then followed by an air hammer to turn and remove the hub. I tried just turning the hub from the knuckle (via serious radial pounding on the hub threaded hole) in lieu of pulling or whacking the hub perpendicular away from the knuckle. It worked like a charm. I was able to make slight radial movement or turning of the hub and consequently release the holding rust. Once the rust bond was broken, it was cake walk removing the hub assembly. There was no need for me to use the slide hammer and air hammer in which I was prepaid to do. Thank you again. I watched several videos and horrific.
Excellent!! I am so glad it worked for you. In the future you may want this hub shocker video: ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
The Twist/Break/Separate Method works good but it was extremely difficult. Don't get me wrong it works and I was thankful. But the Subaru rear wheel bearings are turning out to be a whole new animal. I only use the Hub Shocker now. It's wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy easier for me. Check it out! 😃
Everyone seems to test one of these on a Subaru the biggest wheel bearing fights I can remember having Saturn vues close s being the rear hubs on my 2008 caravan that took a slide hammer with a added 50 lb weight and two friends it also took chunks of the rear axle housing (Northeast problems)
Wow! There always seems to be another contender for the title of toughest wheel bearings. I remember the caravans were really tough, never had the pleasure of attempting a Saturn 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun No idea why they are the same chassis as other small GM SUVs but front bearings on those always kicked my ass 🤣
Well Saturns are quickly aging out so we got that going for us. But, they're always new contenders. The Explorers and Edges probably take 1st prize currently for most difficult 👻 booo 😂
@@EasyFixShaun Those are pretty rough you can guarantee if one enters the bay it's probably going to need at least two wheel bearings on top of some broken springs 🤣
Yup! There is a some crazy repairs on those vehicles.
great video , thank you!
No problem. Glad you like it. Look up the hub shocker 2.0 for the easiest removals on subbies😀🔧
Tell you a much easier way to dismount the bearing. You just need to leave the bearing mounting bolts half way in, and hammer those bolts from inside.
That is a great method if you have access. A powerful air hammer. Extra bolts. 😀🔧
Woah now I know why I paid so much to get this replaced. They casually mentioned destroying the sensor which added more to the bill.
Yup, they can be really bad. They are bolt-in but rust makes them seemingly welded in. The hub shocker has treated me well if you need to do this. It is the only way I like to do them now.... 😃
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
i used the chisel head on the air hammer and punched in between housing and the brake shoe plate . took like 4 minutes. Then with a sledge hammer punched it out of the plate . Air hammer is a must .
Nice work. I would love to see that method. I only use the hub shocker on the all these rear wheel bearings now. Seems to be way easier on severely stuck bearings. It is amazing how little corrosion will cause them to seem welded in. I think it is the tight tolerances used by Subaru. Hub Shocker....only way for me in Michigan 😃🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Dude......eye protection!!!
Yup always, except this one time. I have gotten much better about it over the years. 😃
10mm bolt holds the speed sensor on. If you take the sensor out, you don't have to worry about it
Yup! the only reason I didn't remove is that the risk of breakage is very high in the rust belt. So i usually risk breaking on the bearing removal instead and am very successful at saving them that way. It should be remove ideally if at all possible 😃🔧
In a variation of "when all else fails, read the directions" we have "when all else fails, grab the right tool."
Very True! This is the only tool I use now for Subaru rear wheel bearings😃🔧ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
I sincerely wish I would have watched this before I dug into it today.
These bearings suck. I'm sorry n I've been there also. Watch my "hub shocker 2.0" video. It has some video ideas in there on how to do it next time 🔧🔧
@@EasyFixShaun I might have to invest in an air hammer for this tbh. My hand is shot. I tried a map torch too but nothing. Stubborn girl.
Man that sucks. If the bearing isn't separated order the hub shocker, 1/2" grade eight bolts and nuts, and an 8lb sledge hammer and work in it in two days from amazon. That's how i do them. If the bearing separated into two pieces, my hub shocker 2.0 video will show you how to pull it back together with the cv axle nut. The put the hub shocker on and easily remove. Been there. They stuck. Stick with it whatever method you use. You will get it eventually. I won't even attempt them anymore with out the shocker... 😀🔧🔧
@@adammatis5527 They are one of the worst by far. The rust jacking makes them seem like they are welded in. But they aren't. The Hub Shocker breaks that rust bond. I love mine. I have had trouble getting them out with the hub shocker at times they are so stubborn. But it works for me every time so far. Best way to do it for me. They royaly suck. Hang in there 😃🔧
Subaru has had bad wheels bearings/suspension issues from the beginning. One would think the’d have fix these problems by now..
Ya I know. Kind of a bummer. The old cars bearings and suspension outlasted the big three. Now the bearings are about on par with them. Not good. I hope they address that stuff soon before they loose some of the great following the have won over the years.
HUB SHOCKER VIDEO ua-cam.com/video/09Zz4JLC0zM/v-deo.html
@@EasyFixShaun, yup. Losing me. I'm done with Subaru. These bearing failures are ridiculous. I've never seen a vehicle with as many wheel bearing failures as these Subaru's. I'm done. Fixing, selling, and buying another brand.
Hey man I can’t say I blame you. If you switch go Honda a Toyota. Maybe Subaru will get their stuff together someday. Or drive an older model. It’s frustrating. 10 years ago every Subaru was bullet proof. Didn’t matter what model engine or year. Just buy one and they are the same. They were all good. Now with their bearing issues their are a lot of red flags popping up. And we haven’t event gotten started on the cvt transmissions yet. Its tough for me to recommend them with all of this going on. They are still great cars over all if you can live with bearing and cvt issues. Most bearings cost 600-900 to replace at the dealer. Just to go another 20-60k max. Transmissions are recalled and warranty’s extended, yet none are available. And if you find one just the transmission is 4-6k. That’s not including labor. Something stinks in Denmark. Not good.
Where do you buy oem parts? I’m in need of rear wheel bearings for my 2004 Subaru Impreza outback sport
Amazon 😀
Or the dealership. Amazon is getting more and more selection of dealership parts every day though.
@@EasyFixShaun is this the same set up for an 04 Impreza wagon?
@@matteocus13 No. You have press-in style bearings. Here is a video on press-in bearings replacement. Press-in bearing 2.0 video is coming out with in a week and that will be a little better than the first one, if you need it. 😀 ua-cam.com/video/CInFJDz11II/v-deo.html
I couldn’t get either of mine off, great video but I ended up removing both the rear knuckles and replacing them as well as the wheel bearings and new pads while I’m in there, it set me back a bit but I put anti sieze around the bearing to keep this from happening next time. Northern Illinois they put 2inches of salt for every inch of snow…
Nice job! They are such a difficult job that it is crazy. Absolutely insane! I have had to do a few, here is the only way I do them now😃🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
So i have 2013 subaru impreza hatchback and i am facing similar dilemmas as some have posted here. First where did you buy the rear wheel bearings? Also can you list the types of tools you used in this video please?
thanks
I posted all of that stuff in the description with links to amazon. Let me know if I am missing something from the video. I think I got most of it for you 😀
I did this today. About 20mins with the air hammer. Thanks for the tip
Nice work! They are a bear! The HUB SHoCKER is the way i do them now. So much easier 😀😀
Dealer wanted $795 to do just one. I got a pair from ebay for $85.00.
Yup. The bearings are cheap which is awesome! The cost is from the labor side of the repair. These bearing replacements are brutal. I mean BRUTAL! I now use the Hub Shocker tool ONLY. It makes them slide out like butter!! No shocker tool......I won't even do them anymore. Its a waste of your time and sometimes you can not get the bearing out. They suck. Here is the shocker tool video you need! Shocker 2.0 video 🔧🔧ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Good video. Neither of my rear wheels have any play - and neither spin very freely as yours did (even with brake pads removed). But the drone noise seems to be on the right side. Can a bearing go bad and not exhibit any play in the wheel? It is an 08 Outback. Thank you.
Thank you! Yes, any bearing can be bad even if there is no play. Very common. I would replace the noisy rear right side first and test drive to see what happened to the noise. You should most likely take care of your problem. Nice job! I would also watch the hub shocker 2.0 video and purchase the tool. I will not even attempt a rear subaru replacement with out the tool. Heres the video. Please report back on your success or failure if you have the time. Good luck! 🤓 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
I just bought both rear bearings, rotors a d pade for 309 bucks off of " Rock Auto ?
One bearing at the dealer was $279 without tax.
DIY is saving a ton too. Thanks again for the video.
Awsome! You may want to watch my hub shocker video and buy the tool. These rear bearings are THE Most DIfICuLT tO rEMoVE EvERrrrRRR.
@@EasyFixShaun yes sir !
Excellent! Good luck with you project. Let me know how it goes 🙂
@@EasyFixShaun will do but it'll be a while seeing it can wait till wormer weather lol
No rush 🙃
Subaru Service Bulletin 05-70-19R
says the cause of premature bearing failure is faulty design of the backing plate.
Thank you! Great information. The blame has to go somewhere 😂. Subaru- while we are performing the tsb, these wheel bearings should be replaced at the same time for good measure. haha. That kicks the can down the road further until the new wheel bearings go bad making it not their problem. Just spit balling here 😂. Anyone out there have the new wheel bearings last more miles, compared to before and after the backing plate change? The old press in bearings were common for 175-225k miles before failure. It would be wishful thinking to compare to that. But if the wheel bearings can regularly get over 100k miles with the new backing plate i would call that a win big time! 😃
If you remove the ABS sensor you don't need to worry about damaging it.
Good point! 😀
FWIW, an easier way is to leave your four wheel bearing bolts threaded in just a few threads, then use the air hammer to drive the bearing out by alternating the air hammer crisscross style on each of the four bolts from the back side. This will push the wheel bearing out relatively easy.
Great tip! I know that trick very well. I find access a little tight to do that on rear of the Subarus. Have you had good luck doing it on rear of Subbies?
I would recommend removing the speed sensor- it is one bolt that holds it into the top of the housing. soak it in breakfree/ rust eater to make it pop out easier.
Then if it is super rusty holding the bearing in just flood the cavity and space with the rust eater.
I did not use a slidehammer because i did not want to snap the sensor off.
You can also just pull the brake assbly off and not split off the caliper- saves a few moments. I also replaced with Moogs - hoping for the best!
(17 forester)
Nice man! I’m glad you got your ride fixed up😀
By the way! Here is the solution your problems with any Subaru REAR wheel bearing. I will not even attempt a replacement with out this tool now. ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
came to the comments to say this. the FSM and other guides i've seen all emphasize pulling the sensor out first. its pretty much the easiest thing in the entire assembly to remove, so... yeah. just pull it out before you do anything else. other than that, great video, thanks.
You are correct. I should have tried removing it for sure. I have broken that fastener off many times in rusty Michigan, so i have learned to try without removal. Because of that, I am a little shy about pulling those out 😀🔧🔧
Nothing good comes from removing the sensor in Northern Ohio. The bolt head gets broken off, which is the worst case scenario. Or if you get the bolt out the sensor can't be freed without breaking it. Don't try taking out the sensor in a rust belt state. I'm speaking from experience! If you are planning to try and remove it, have a new sensor on hand.
nice video, ill change my front bearings on my subaru outback 2005, it has 310.000kms now. one front bearing is noisy, so ill replace both front bearings at the same time + outer left side cv boot
Nice! Use the best parts you can buy and you won't have to do it all a second time 😀
So is this similar set up to the 2005 wrx sti. I’m trying to buy the hub and wheel bearing and just have those four bolts to install. I know you said 2008 wrx sti but looks really similar to the 2005. If someone can chime in and give me some input I’ll appreciate it.
I just looked up your parts and it says you have press in style. But, if you have four bolts on the back side of the rear knuckle, then you should have the bolt in style. I am not sure if yours is an early build 2005 or not. That could be the problem. Subaru had some weird parts and application flaws for looking up some parts on 2001-2005 vehicles. I have gotten the wrong brakes parts on occasion for that range of vehicles. You should have the exact parts and procedure as the video though. 🔧🔧
Hey Rawwdawg! Have you purchased a newer subbie with bolt in bearings yet by chance? I wanted to share a new method I now use on all Subarus wheel bearing replacements. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. You should grab one of these tools if you ever need to replace another bearing. It is one of my favorite tools now 😀 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
I bought a 2014 Forester new. In Sept 2017 i had to replace the left rear bearing. Then in Aug 2018 i had the right rear replaced. Then in Dec 2018 i had the left rear replaced again. Now it is again the left rear bearing again which is bad and next week it is going to be replaced. What is causing these bearings to go bad??? I did not mind the first 3 because my extended warranty covered it. Now i have 118,000 miles on it and i have to eat the $400.00 to replace it. I called Subaru and they offered me a $1000.00 off my next purchase of a new Subaru or a $500.00 coupon off any Subaru service. I took the $1000.00 because i am at my summer home and there are no Subaru dealership in my area. When the next wheel bearing goes i plan on trading it in. Does anyone have the same problems like i had with their 2014.
Sorry to hear that. They are having major problems with their hub style bearings in the rear of all their vehicles. I have been installing mid grade bearings from skf and they seem to outlast the subaru bearings. This is a first for me. Usually Oem is heads and shoulders above anything else. I suspect a supplier problem, but who knows. Maybe its bad engineering. The good news is these repairs will get easier and cheaper as techs learn how to replace them easier. So the problem should become less and less significant. My hope is it will just be a minor irritation. Subaru's used to get 125-175k miles out of each bearing. So this is a drastic departure. The front bearings seem to do just fine, but rears are sub par. If you compare to the domestic big three manufacturers, the Subaru's are now about as good. Kinda defeats buying a Subaru. They will hopefully correct the problem in the 2020 new vehicle models coming out. Still worth buying in my opinion. Sorry you are having so much trouble. 🙃
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html Hey if you ever have to do another bearings, check this new video out would you? Let me know what you think. It's made my life so much better on the replacement side of things.
Thanks for the video. Perfect for my '16 OB with noisy left rear bearing. Car began to sound like a I had 1 mud terrain tire on.
No problem! Sounds like it probably is a bearing. Have you seen the Hub shocker video I recently made? Its a wheel bearing removal tool. It is the easiest way to remove a Subaru Bearing in the rear, By a long long shot. You Should get one for your bearing replacement if you can. Amazon is usually 2 days out with them. It may be extremely difficult, especially if you live in the salt belt. Let me know how your project goes!
@@EasyFixShaun No. I will check it out. Yes in rust belt, Iowa. I have time to order because bought OEM parts online & slow to ship. Do you know torque specs for axle nut, hub bots, & caliper?
Ya you should get that tool for sure. I have done so many bearings I cant even count. These rear subbie bearings are in my “top three hardest to remove”. It’s because the tolerance are very accurate and tight on a subbie. Rust gets in between the bearing and knuckle and “rust jacks” them together. They stick so bad, it will seem as if you forgot to remove a mounting bolt. It will seem like it’s welded in! Very difficult and frustrating. Hub shocker makes it a breeze. On those specs I usually hand tighten most any bolt I’m not sure about as far as caliper bolts and bracket bolts. But the hub/axle nut front or rear is always between 145-180 roughly, on Subbies. I would google all that stuff and get your exact specs to be sure.
@@EasyFixShaun Finally got my bearing in place. I did buy the Hub Shocker but failed at removing it. I felt terrible banging on. I threw in towel & took to a shop. They removed the entire knuckle from car and cut out with torch they told me. In Iowa Winters they spray brine (salt & water) on streets to pretreat before storms. Not sure if this added to fusion. But in doing this I learned I need brake pads soon & will try that.
Oh man! I’m sorry. Ya it seems like you can hit it too hard but you gotta just do it. I will do a video using a sledge hammer to prove it. Heat is a great option if all else fails. Sorry about it not working. Hang on to that tool. The other side will likely need a bearing soon also and you can give it another go.
Well done! ;)
😃😃😃
Such helpful information! Thank you - rear wheel bearing done! Thanks too for your wisdom to prevent the rookie error of breaking the ABS sensor!
No problem! If you need to do another bearing on your subbie you should get this tool. It is amazing. 🔧🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Did everything you recommend in video. Nothing, air hammer actually punched through the walls of the bolt holes. Wish I saw the Hub Puller video first. I'm all out of ideas, and now my hub bolts are wrecked. Short of welding a flange on both sides and threading a bolt to make a puller....
Heat will remove it. That is always my last resort because the gas tank is in the back and other things can be melted at the knuckle. I go straight for the hub shocker first now. I left the video up to give an option of normal replacement. Im sorry it didn’t work for you. The rear bearings on Subaru are the worst bearings I have ever dealt with. They stick so badly it’s hard to explain without seeing it. Stick with it if you can. You will get it eventually. “A man made it, a man can fix it”. You can do it.
Just Checking back in Ron. I'm really sorry it went bad for you. I have searched high and low for a solution to make these bolt on bearings slide off like they should. They are ridiculous. I made another video on the hub shocker and I solved all the issues I had with it. It worked good. But severely stuck bearings were giving it problems. Check out the new video and let me know what you think? This is how I do them all now. It is officially easy for me. ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Thanks dude
No problem! Did you see the shocker? It is the only way I do these now..😃🔧ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
I have a 2017 Outback I'll be doing front CV axles and wheel hub bearings this weekend. Definitely saving this video for when I have to do the rear!!
Awsome! Thanks a lot. If you have any rust in the rear you will want to watch the shocker video. It is the best and only way to do the subaru rear bearings for me now. I do not use the chisel method anymore, it takes way too much time and is way too difficult. If you have time and are not stuck order the shocker. It is a life saver. Here is the video for it and how to mount and use it to keep the bearing together. IT IS AMAZING!!!!! 😃🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
@@EasyFixShaun Front's came out just fine. I've been beating on the rear passenger for 2 days now, with the hub shocker and a 12lb sledge. I'm going to have to take it somewhere for a press. This thing is stuck stuck
@@donnie1581 Oh man, nice work on the fronts. Sorry about those rears. They are brutal. I have had a few that tested the shocker and me but have been fortunate it has worked every time. I sometimes put a 6x6 under the knuckles in the rear to transfer more sledge hammer energy to break the rust bond. I don't blame you for bowing out. Don't feel bad, they are amongst the most challenging in the world to remove. Right up there with the Ford Explorers and Edges.Nice job trying though man. Don't feel bad. They suck. 😃
Awesome video 👍, informative and to the point. Thanks for saving me some money !
Yup! No problem at all. Here is a tool I now use to replace all subaru rear bearings. It's awsome. 😃🔧
My wheel bearing in wrx has failed at 80,000km
Ouch! Sorry to hear that. They are failing prematurely in my opinion. At least the hub shocker is making the replacements easier. Have you seen that video?
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Great Video! Got to do wife's 2011 Outback before vaca trip...Looking forward to that video on Press in style....I might have to do my 2007 Forester one day...An excellent video on those would be awesome help!!! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge that I'm finding a lot of shops want to overcharge for!! With knowledge from gracious folks like yourself,...Persistence and patience wins the race!
Thanks a lot man!! I really appreciate that. I had some personal stuff pop up but I am getting back on track here. Should have that press in style video out within 14 days. Did you see my video with the hub shocker? You may want to buy one of those for your bearing job. It’s by far the best method. Totally worth the money. These rear subbie bearing stick so bad! They are some of the worst I have ever dealt with. I’m pretty sure the shocker took was made for Subaru’s. It will help you out massively. Good tool to have around for all future Subbies you may own.
HUB SHOCKER VIDEO ua-cam.com/video/09Zz4JLC0zM/v-deo.html
Watched a dozen videos of this exact procedure, yet never seen one mention "BALL BEARINGS" before!?? Where the heck did those come from?
The bearing assembly didn't come off as one piece. He had to use the slam hammer which separated the internal ball bearing assembly.
The bearing separated into two halves because it was so frozen. I thought it was a freak thing on the first bearing. Now I recognize it is the norm. These are the toughest bearings I have ever had to remove. But with 2 years of blood sweat and tears I have come up with a solution. These bearings now take me 20minutes. Here is a video of the procedure and tool I use. Life saver. Let me know what you think! ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
What if i dont have a subaru?
Hub Shocker works well. What kind of vehicle do you have?
@@EasyFixShaun im walking, dont have one.
This video method could work on any bolt in style bearing. The hub shocker is a much better and easier method. If you have a ford the only solution is grade 8 bolts 😀🔧
I'm buying one if those "hub beater" tools whereby that bolt on to the hub using the lug nuts and have a heavy plate and bar extending out. You beat the bar with a 5lb hammer. Seems to work on these rusted in hub assemblies.
Nice! They work great. I hit mine with a 8lb sledge all the time. Bearings pop out like butter.
Hey Drew! Ive been perfecting my Hub shocker tool and here is the newest mounting method for the Subarus. It works awesome compared to ANY other way. Let me know what you think please!?? ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Is there anything special about the driver side rear wheel bearings on a 2016 Subaru Forester. For example will all four eventually fail? or will I just have problems with that one?
I would say that all wheel bearings do fail eventually. The rear bearings seem to fail prematurely on Subaru's right now. It is a real bummer, I have heard of some only making it 30K miles! Not a good situation, I hope they fix the problem. Subaru front bearings seem to last a "normal amount" of miles and time for bolt in style wheel bearings. I am sure you will have one or two fail if you put 100k miles on your Subaru. I would call that normal. Most likely both rears will fail. You may want to have a Hub shocker in your tool box for the rear bearing replacements. They are a life saver! I haven't seen bearings stick so badly in my life. I have a link in the description for that tool if needed.
2017 Forester here, on mine the right rear bearing failed at 41K miles.
Hey William! Here is an updated tool video that finally removes these bearings easily. The Hub Shocker 2.0 video solves mounting and separation issues with any Subaru bearings. ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Awesome video! Thank you for posting. The rear bearings on my Outback are starting to get noisy, I will be doing this soon.
Thank you! Those bearings can be a pain. Sometimes they don't want to come out. But stick with it. I hope the video helps you get it done! Let me know how it goes would you?
@@EasyFixShaun Just replaced both rear bearing hubs on my 2016 Outback, had no problems at all. I did not use Subaru bearings. My Subaru bearings failed at 67,000 miles, the Timken bearings in my old Ford F-150 failed at 230,000 miles. So, I installed Timken bearings, very smooth now, no noise in the rear!!
Love it! I’m glad you got it done. Timken is the best aftermarket bearing in my opinion also.
@@chandlersgarage My left rear is going in my '16 OB with 78k miles. Disappointing. Dealership too pricey doing myself thanks to this video.
Hey did you ever replace your bearings? Would you like to watch the new video and compare my new method to how it went for you? Here is the video ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
My 2015 subaru had one bearing at 60k, and the other at 80k. This bearing assembly is one of the worst ideas in cars today. I just pulled out my hub from the housing with a slide hammer. I later watched someone just remove the sensor, leave the nut on the axle and they claim that would prevent the hub from pulling out. Thank you for your video, tomorrow I go buy a large air hammer! Theres still hope!
No problem. The other option-you could order a Hub Shocker Tool. Watch my 2.0 Hub Shocker video! You can install the hub back on temporarily for bearing removal with the cv-axle nut shown in the video. As long as there is enough cv axle threads sticking through you can use the nut to press it back together. Then thru bolt the bearing hub face with grade 8 fasteners through the removed lug studs holes. Hammer with 8lb sledge. This is how I do them all. It's the easiest way so far. They are a nightmare any other way to me. Sometimes the Shocker will pop out first hit, sometimes it takes 10 attempts. These replacements are soul destroying. Get the tool! Watch the video! Save yourself! Let me know if you have any questions. The video answers a lot of them though. Here you go! ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
The slide hammer seperated the hub from the bearing housing, so nothing to mount the shocker to any more. Much like this video. Air hammer does nothing. Think i need to remove the knuckle and press it out now. At this point, I am certain this design is one of the dumbest designs in auto history. You'd think Subaru would simply use antisieze in their assembly process.
I agree. They made the service of a wheel bearing hard. The bearings are bolt in. I guess they missed the concept. The problem though is corrosion. The bearings rust jack themselves in. There isnt enough clearance around the bearing to allow for rust jacking. A side note-i do know someone else besides me that used the cv axle nut sucessfully to pull the outer half of the bearing/hub back in with the cv axle nut. If that can be done the shocker can be used. If you can do that it is the easiest and fastest. It would be my first option to try at the point you are at. If it works- you could order the tool and come back to it. Make sure you get some grade eight bolts and a sledgehammer also. 😀🔧
I removed the whole knucke, put it in a 20 ton press, and it wouldnt budge. So, I applied heat with a torch to the area while in the press, still nothing. Then I heated it again, while still in the press, and hit it with an air impact from several sides, and it finally shot out of the knuckle. Its hard to comprehend that It was rusted in so tightly. What a beast.
Wow. Incredible job sticking with it. That is one step away from total replacement. Total replacement would be easier. You crushed it.
The rear bearings don’t have to be pressed in? I know the front’s on my 05 STI come preassembled in the hubs but I thought the rears needed a press to get back in. So confused on the 05 STI because the info seems sparse.
In 2005 that year was a little bit of a split year and could have either a press-in style bearing or a bolt-in style bearing, depending on the model. The easiest way to tell instantly is to look on the inside of the knuckle where the cv-shaft goes through. If you see bolts it is a bolt in style bearing. If you do not have bolts, it is a press-in style. I have press in bearing videos to help with press-in style. ua-cam.com/video/P5bwlKKpusk/v-deo.html
If you have bolt-in style bearings I have a Hub Shocker video to help get it out of the knuckle easily😃🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
do you replace the axle nut? ppl sat to replace it do you think it is needed?
Yup! I always re-use them.
@@EasyFixShaun i was about to buy some since almost every vid says replace them
@@gomezlgt5507 Nothing wrong with replacing the axle nut or recommending that. But I have worked in 5 shops. None replace axle nuts unless there is an actual reason. If the nut is torqued correctly it will never back off. I think people get a little nervous because the Subaru axle nut has the lock nut "re-staking" rim on it. It's a Myth. As long as the threads are in good shape. Re-use as many times as you want.
@@EasyFixShaun great thanks man!
@@gomezlgt5507 No problem- Anytime!!
backing plates are garbage on these cars. I had to replace mine with the bearing it was so fucked
I agree. I usually don't even replace them. If I did it would be the only thing on the car not rusted. haha. Rust is the worst thing ever for mechanics.
Well done!
Thank you! Hey if you want to do these rear bearings the easy way, check out my new video on them and buy this tool!
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Great video !! Thank you !! --2011 Legacy owner
You are welcome. They easiest way to do this repair is using the hub shocker. It is the only way I will attempt any rear subaru bearing now. Here is my video link 😃🔧ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
So I broke my abs sensor and ordered a new one, won't be here for a few days though. The car drove but had the check engine and abs sensor lights on cause of the sensor being broken. However i filled up gas at the station and my car wouldn't turn on! Go it boosted and then it went into complete limp mode... All my lights started flashing but i was able to drive it home. Then on my driveway my car started rolling backward when it was on drive my foot wasn't on gas or brake. Do you know what could be wrong? Driveway is uphill
Hi Kyle. A lot of weird symptoms there that don’t match an abs sensor. The lights flashing almost sounds like a security system problem from battery disconnect. Sometimes that will happen if the battery dies also. Maybe all of that is tied to just a work out or dead battery? The shifting issue seems weird also. I don’t know how that could be related but I think I would start with battery replacement if needed. Scan all of the computers and check for diagnostic codes and go from there. I don’t think the abs sensor will cause any of those problems. But replace that also. Keep me posted. What year is your car?
@@EasyFixShaun it is a 2013 forester. It was on a jack on the driver side for 6days, while I replaced the knuckle + Balljoint + wheel hub. When i started the car it took a few cranks but it turned on and looked like the battery was weak. The abs and check engine light were on because of the sensor.
Drove to the gas station to fill up my tank, and then the car wouldn't start. So i got it boosted, and then almost all the dash lights came on. It started ideling very rough and wasn't moving when it was in D, i had to press the gas for it to move forward even a little bit. So I Drove it home and then it died/turned off once i put it into park on the driveway.
I'll wait for the abs sensor to come in so I can replace that, and then i will check the battery.
I am really confused about what's going on but I think I would try a hard reset to the computers on the car by disconnecting the battery. I think low battery voltage may have caused them to go haywire. That would be my best guess to what is going on since the abs sensor would have no effect on transmission shifting. Kind of a weird one. Stick with it and try that and replace your abs sensor. Work your way that direction and hopefully some of these weird issues will be chalked up to just a glitch in the computer from low battery voltage. 😀
@@EasyFixShaun So I finally got it working. first replaced the abs sensor, which also helped the car not freak out and turn the radiator fans on for no reason. I then replaced the car battery with a new one because the other one was old and hadn't been replaced since god knows when. (I've only had this vehicle since 2019 June). I then turned had to do the idle relearn procedure which helped with the low rpm/engine stalling out. The car is finally fixed drove it around town yesterday to make sure.
Also, Thanks a lot for your help and your video! its a great video explaining how to do everything,! thanks again!
Excellent job sticking with it man. Thats so crazy how much the abs sensor threw the entire system for a loop. Glad you got your ride back up and running! 😀
really helpful, I bought a rotary drill to replace the air hammer. Still working on it !
Great! These are such hard repairs. I use the Hub Shocker only for these now. Here is the video for it 😃🔧 ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Sorry you are having such a hard time. They are so difficult. Stick with it. You will eventually get it 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun thanks for your reply! that's amazing. I got same situation in your video, the bolts part is removed by slide hammer, but the root still stick. Can you provide me more advice about it? thanks
no problem. If you can get it to spin in the housing it will come out. I did it with an air hammer. It took a while. It really sucked fir me. That is what lead me to the shocker. There is a truck in the shocker video where you can pull the hub back in and then use the shocker. That is what i would do if you can. These bearings are horrible replacements. Sorry you are having trouble.
Hell yes!!! Thank you for doing this video. Awesome
No problem! Check out my HUB SHOCKER 2.0 video. I have two videos on it. That is now the only tool I will use on Subaru rear wheel bearings. Any other method is futile and a waste of my time on rear subbie bearings. They are that difficult. And the shocker is that good 😀
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Not that expensive? $200! Each
Cheap if you install it yourself. $600 if you have the dealer install one. I guess everything is relative. I would rather install an expensive one that will hopefully last vs do the job twice. These bearings suck.
Hey Mr Slicer2424! Here is the new method I now use on all Subarus wheel bearing replacements. This tool is amazing and in the Hub Shocker 2.0 (second video) I solve all the mounting and bearing separation issues. Check it out and let me know what you think? This is the only way I replace Subaru rear bearings now and it makes them a breeze. ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
Klasse
Dictionary
What is average cost to replace both sides by a repair shop?
$550-$600 each at the dealership. I think most aftermarket shops are the same unless they haven’t done one. If they haven’t done one they are likely to estimate $2-300 each. After the first one they will be much higher most likely.
Hi Bill. Here is a new tool and method on how to replace these ridiculous bearings. I would say with the new video methods it is now easy for me. Hopefully you don't have to replace your bearings again. But if you do, check this video out and and let me know what you think?ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
When you tighten the axle nut using a crow bar, do you risk damaging threads on the lugs? I was also thinking of using longer bolts, and if the bearing separates, use longer bolts to attach the slide hammer and remove the base.
No damage. It seems like it could possibly damage some threads. But I have been doing it that way for years with no issues.
I missed your second question. Yes you could try the longer bolt method. That could work great, especially if you can attach a slide hammer to them very securely. I think that may be where the problem would be. attaching to the inside and hammering is a very effective method but there just isn't any room to hammer without damaging something else. My go to method is the Hub Shocker. Its the best way on the rear of any Subaru. Hub Shocker ua-cam.com/video/09Zz4JLC0zM/v-deo.html
HUB SHOCKER VIDEO ua-cam.com/video/09Zz4JLC0zM/v-deo.html
@@EasyFixShaun HI, I bought new rear bearing hubs (NTN), bolts, axle nuts, and a hub shocker. I planning on replacing this weekend. Any other tips before I start?
@@joepinehill Hi Joe! Do it just like in the second update video. I am not sure if you saw it or not. Through bolt your hub only. And if it is super stubborn and the bearing comes apart use the cv axle nut trick in the video to hold it all together temporarily. Other wise it will separate and be 20x more difficult. Good luck! 🔧😃
ua-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/v-deo.html
The music's kind of annoying, but thanks for the video! I got the front half of the bearing off and got stuck... I was thinking about the air hammer, but unsure of the best way to hit it. The slide hammer sure wasn't doing much good anymore after it got the wheel flange off.
I usually air hammer using the old bolt holes only. In the video you can see me trying to twist the old bearing. If you can get it to twist it will come right out. If that doesn’t work you will want to just remove the knuckle and press the bearing out to save damaging anything. Its extra work but totally doable. Once on a press it will pop right out. Accessing the bearing with the force needed to remove it on the car is the hardest part of the repair with these. The hub shocker solves all of that. But you have to use that tool from the start. Once the bearing is separated you can not use that tool anymore. You need to just keep going and “piece mealing” until it’s fully removed.
*Peter I thought about this overnight and I actually think you would be able to use the Hub shocker still! It isn't too late. I haven't done this before so I am sorry I didn't think of it sooner. I think you could reinstall the outer hub portion back into the inner hub on the knuckle by using the cv axle shaft and nut as a puller to reinstall the hub. The job of the cv shaft is to hold the bearing together so it will work just fine as long as you have enough room to thread the nut on to pull it back into place. Once it is back in place, loosen the nut a few rounds and remove the abs sensor so you don't break that. Install the Hub Shocker and smash away until it pops out!*
@@EasyFixShaun Hey man, that's not a bad idea... Really appreciate you coming back to give me advice. I got the punch for the air hammer today but haven't used it yet. If I get the darned thing back on I'll order myself a shocker and let you know how it goes. Never pass up a good excuse to buy a new tool, I always say!
@@EasyFixShaun Hi, yeah so reattaching the hub turned out to be pretty easy. I just slid it on. Had to put a block of wood on it and give it a few love taps with my 3 lb hammer to get the CV axle spindle in far enough so that I could catch some threads with the nut. Then I used my impact gun to fasten it back on. I think it's important that the rear wheels are both in the air so the axle spins freely and you're not putting pressure on the diff with the impact. The impact spins the nut on faster than the axle can spin. I'll be ordering the hub shocker now to see how it goes!
Excellent man! No problem. The shocker should work. Get some washers and extra lug nuts. regular acorn style nuts with no through cap are best. size is 12mm-1.25 for the nuts. You may want to remove the abs sensor and leave the nut on the cv axle. Sensor could break. And the nut on the cv axle will help keep the bearing together until the tool can do its work and pop it out. I am just a little worried since you removed the outer it may not stay together as well as if you hadn't disturbed it. It should hopefully work though. My biggest hurdle is keeping lug nuts on the tool. It has so much power they strip. Buy a few extras! 😀