A word of advice, at the boom hinge, you've the bold going from under up, and the nut above, turn that around for safety, should the nut ever go loose and drop , the bold will stay in place by gravity, like you have it now it will drop out.
I appreciate Mark's practical approach instead of being a perfectionist. I tend to be the latter and I don't get things done as much as I'd like. Watching these videos always inspires me to lighten up and just make things work.
Unless you have a particular reason otherwise, your gooseneck pivot bolt should be head up, nut down. That way, if the nut (I know it's self-locking) should come undone, the bolt will continue to support the boom. This is a good general rule. Also, lube anything that moves.
@@WildlingSailing Excellent video Mark, it always brightens my week to get off on a Friday and see a new release from you, so thanks! Im sure you already know this but pay attention to the nyloc nuts when reusing them, they can only be run on/off a certain amount of times before they just become a normal nut.
We had some good advice on glassing through tight corners on out build (Te Waka Phambili) : 1. Lay the glass through the corner "on the cross" so that the strands go into and out of the corner at an angle - we're using 200gsm mat for this type of thing, and 2. Swipe in a little thickened epoxy into the corner first. This helps enormously with those stubborn spots by trapping the glass in place. Well done on sorting that motor, what a learning curve.
Hey Big Fella , you're workmanship is improving with every project . I'M impressed !!! You might consider taking 300mm - 400mm off the top of the mainsail with a headboard and give yourself some valuable headroom. I can see a need for shelter on deck as well. Cheers!! 😊
The eas with which you tackle these big projects is such a big change from just a few years ago. Impressive is very nice to see. Stay safe. Thanks for the wonderful entertainment
To help prevent boom twist you could add hardwood to sides of the bottom of the boom similar to top creating an I-Beam effect. 1 strip either side would probably be sufficient.
I am impressed with the changes in your cat since I started working on it. Your parents contributed greatly but you have done tremendous work! I look forward to watching as you sail across oceans!
Beautiful job on the boom. The boat rigging is getting there. It seems quite complicated and it’s fun to follow your progress. Love that you designed your own merch. You should be proud of your progress so far. Nothing better than being able to live out your dream. Keep going. That boat is going to be amazing.
tack/jibe preventer line>crash helmets. I hear the way to prevent the wood rot through the drilled holes is to oversize drill it, fill it with epoxy, then redrill them. that's all my advice from my comfy couch. love watching your channel, btw.
I would make a larger fillet for the fiberglass. and round the edges that need to be rounded, boom is looking Great so far. You have every reason to be stoked, when u got that motor issues running in your favor. Awesome!
I think that for the staysail attachment you need to make a vertical slot in the mast and insert the 2 pieces inside and rivet them from outside. They then will have all the pull against the inside of the mast and then when they are held together outside the mast the 2 parts will be strong.
Well done Mark, you've put some hard and difficult work behind you and that spirit is now also part of your boat! You're going to reap a pride and satisfaction feeling that no one can put down on you! It is "your" boat and your dream being made real! I can't wait to get my ride in on your first adventure at least, so I'm following with anxiety to see this beautiful boat finished and sailing out of the expensive past! Best regards!
You probably have been told already, the fast hardener will turn orange/red as it ages. Does not affect the cure. Fun video again, great job! Thanks, Andrew
I like the idea that you are building it ,So you know what is all going into it, that way any maintenance, you'll know how to repair any of it. You're doing a great job, and keep it up 👍🏽👌
Looking good! BTW, you'll find it easier to pull your sails up if the halyards exit the mast slightly higher than you can reach, so you can pull down on it, instead of pulling up from the deck. Then you can just hang on it and use your body weight instead of muscle power. Also every pulley adds friction. And I'd attach your downhaul/cunningham to the gooseneck, or close to it, so the pulls the tack into the mast as well as down.
The boom is looking good. I like how you incorporated the reef points into it; a million times better than any external fittings. As for it being a hazard: I'm barely even a greenhorn sailor, but having been aboard a 70-foot schooner under sail, all I can say is: it's pretty easy to keep track of, (because it's huge) and if you're the captain, you will know when it's going to move, even if it gybes accidentally. Good job with the electrics, too- only note I have is to get some dielectric grease, and use it liberally. It's worked very well for me on my motorcycles. One last comment: astronomy shots?!?! Nice bonus!
Yes, making a bigger filet/cove will make sure you can glass without trapping air under it. Use double bias glass. Mix a little bit of extra epoxy at the same time as you mix the epoxy for the glassing. Thicken it, then apply, smoothing it with a spatula (or similar) you have shaped to give a bigger profile than the mixing stick you used this time. Wet out your glass and apply straight over the wet filet.
It’s best to use a heat gun for electrical shrink wrap as the flame damaged; electrical tape will soon deteriorate into a sticky mess and has no place on a boat. It’s best to follow a manual for fixing engine as reversing wires can sometimes kill the components. 😊. The Wharram manual should also give Yiu the specs on boom height and filleting.
Looking good. You need a loop from the tack of the main forward to the mast or you will never get the tension in the foot of the sale as it will just pull the tack away from the mast.
Good job. Get a pair of ratcheting crimpers for connectors it does a much better job than the ones you are using. Also a tip I just learned on epoxy is to mix the resin and thickener together first and then mix in the hardener and it won’t cut into your set time. It helps a lot in Texas when it’s 100F+ (38°C)
Maybe you have done this before but if it gets cold and you still want to use epoxy. I tend to keep the resin side in a warmer place i.e. closer to 15 - 20 degrees C then it will cure better but not risk exothermic issues. Also if after you have done the laminating you can add more heat carefully with a hear gun or something... Just dont over heat it ! Have fun and happy sailing
Run a round over bit down the protruding hard 90° angle and make a larger fillet and it should do okay, but I think prewetting will help to glue it and then wet out your cloth.....
Make sure you cut the plastic back from the eye-hole contact point. That one has caught me out before. If the nut tightening on the contact sits on top of the plastic, compressing it, it leaves a small gap that is ideal for corrosion to start at that contact. Corrosion loves nothing better than confined spaces that will always attract and hold moisture through wicking into the gap.
I was happy your boom turned out good. When I purchased new kicker motor in the US a 15 hour was not a lot more than a 9.9, might investigate that just for fun. Nice work overall. Be interesting to see how the fight with wood disease works out. Best of luck
I'm always so scared to start doing things I've never tried doing before and, as somebody already said, I really admire your indefatigability mate. Good on you!
Been watching since the first video. There is so much to how you figure things out and share. The value of work is often dismissed. Really is inspiring bro.
Glad you’re adding to the Douglas fir with hardwood laminate. I was worried the design was too bendy for a proper boom. Good job Mark! As for the filet, I would add more thickened epoxy layers so you have 3/4” of radius for better adhesion and less chance of air bubbles. I would also consider laminating in some carbon fiber layers in between some of the fiber cloth layers you’ve planned for better torsion resistance.
I feel as though your boom will split along its length. You could tenon in Somme of those hardwood pieces at the ends to possibly help or get really fancy and make some metal straps for the ends and the reefing points. Keep working, you are getting there.
I know it adds up fast but throwing in an extra roller or bolt per trip can save you when one breaks just for backup if you haven't been. Always nice having the exact same generic parts laying around.
You may want to add some steel or aluminum ( 1/2) plates to diameters of bottom of boom just for strength to prevent flexing while under strain.The wood will get wet & want to distort even when epoxied.you should round off any 90 degree corners on boom as well.
I rowed around your catamaran about 4-5 years ago when it was moored in Monnickendam......I won't tell you what I thought 😂😂😂......Anyway, you've made great headway with the project. Keep your chin up...👍
Sounds like a compression issue more than a fuel issue. There should still be fuel in the bowl when starting so the fuel pump won’t make much of a difference when starting. Sounds like it takes a few strokes to build enough pressure to start. Piston rings might be toast. They could come back around though. Run high mileage oil or add a little tranny fluid. Run it for a long while wide open and see if the pressure gets better.
You can use a lighter or low torch flame to remove the plastic from the crimp-connectors. It's not too late to solder your new electrical connections (electronc solder). Electrical tape will only serve to keep your connections wet. There is a product called liquid electrical tape that I highly recommend. Throw a new fuel pump at it. Once the engine cleared, it really sounded good !! Maybe a dodger for the cockpit ? Love the new shirt design !! Good job all around !!
Wow! what a lot of work ! Well done. It's impressive how much video you manage to take whilst doing all that work. Poor old camera though. I have the same problem, somehow always manage to get some paint or sealant on it.. Take care ... Dave
Hardwood would have been a better bet. Something hard and rot resistant. This is where checking the Janka scale of wood hardness would come in handy. I'm glad to see that you've got a boom. I don't know, encapsulating pine may be just fine in a saltwater environment. It was cool to see that you diagnosed that motor and got it going.
well Mate have been watching your vids for a few years now and your work skills are just great keep it up one day i might see you down here in New Zealand
Keep that Bluetti above freezing! - extreme cold will knock them out! Never try to charge it up below 4 or 5 C. I have a little 15 watt pet heating pad to warm mine up enough to charge it.
The emergency tape should have gone on first. Then the Heatshrink. Heat shrink can't unravel so it is best as the outer. Also I have mentioned before don't use electrical tape. Use self amalgamating tape. You pull and wrap at the same time creating heat in the tape and it bonds together and is water tight. Regarding the cable try and avoid getting any water or moisture on the core. Even a small amount will corrode the copper and it creeps up the core and becomes brittle and creates a high resistance. Other than that great work on the Boom of Death.
Just a thought Mark, how using a "traveller" for the goose neck and reefing points so that you can slide it to fit all sizes and adjust the tension on the sail where required.
LifeLong Boater retired from 46+ years in the Marine Trades says: if you can, begin to use CorrosionX in place of WD40. Far, far superior results and broader application. Costs a bit more, but lasts much longer and takes less product to get the job done. Also more saltwater friendly…
First....& I'm your Mum aswell 😂😂😂😂
lol
Ive been watching since the beginning.....my fave boat channel 😁 Comment update....Im also his Mum 😁 Proud of you son 🤣
Just like my mum a mind reader. 🤣🤣👍
yeah, it appears I have 2 Mum's now!
@@dcallan812😂
A word of advice, at the boom hinge, you've the bold going from under up, and the nut above, turn that around for safety, should the nut ever go loose and drop , the bold will stay in place by gravity, like you have it now it will drop out.
like aeroplanes do
Thanks for posting and sharing.
@@dannyvanstraelen3273 great advice
He shouldn't need to be told that
You’re doing an awesome job Mark
I love how every other boating channel try to do it 110%, but you just make it work! Love it
Me too, ingenuity is key when you sail boats!
I appreciate Mark's practical approach instead of being a perfectionist. I tend to be the latter and I don't get things done as much as I'd like. Watching these videos always inspires me to lighten up and just make things work.
Yes! Go low tech! Much fewer problems in future.
Unless you have a particular reason otherwise, your gooseneck pivot bolt should be head up, nut down. That way, if the nut (I know it's self-locking) should come undone, the bolt will continue to support the boom. This is a good general rule. Also, lube anything that moves.
yeah, its pretty much being held by the m10 bolt. the hole diameter from the gooseneck is about 14mm
@@WildlingSailing Excellent video Mark, it always brightens my week to get off on a Friday and see a new release from you, so thanks! Im sure you already know this but pay attention to the nyloc nuts when reusing them, they can only be run on/off a certain amount of times before they just become a normal nut.
We had some good advice on glassing through tight corners on out build (Te Waka Phambili) : 1. Lay the glass through the corner "on the cross" so that the strands go into and out of the corner at an angle - we're using 200gsm mat for this type of thing, and 2. Swipe in a little thickened epoxy into the corner first. This helps enormously with those stubborn spots by trapping the glass in place. Well done on sorting that motor, what a learning curve.
This^^
Mark you need to build a cockpit over the steering area!
I have mentioned this several times.
100%
Hey Big Fella , you're workmanship is improving with every project . I'M impressed !!! You might consider taking 300mm - 400mm off the top of the mainsail with a headboard and give yourself some valuable headroom. I can see a need for shelter on deck as well. Cheers!! 😊
The eas with which you tackle these big projects is such a big change from just a few years ago. Impressive is very nice to see. Stay safe. Thanks for the wonderful entertainment
To help prevent boom twist you could add hardwood to sides of the bottom of the boom similar to top creating an I-Beam effect. 1 strip either side would probably be sufficient.
Wow, nice boom!
Your capacity for invention and capabilities to make it all work - these are inspiring and impressive. Keep going.
Mark, you impress me very deeply. It is a wonderful world you are in it. You are giving me deep thoughts. Thank you. Russell
I am impressed with the changes in your cat since I started working on it. Your parents contributed greatly but you have done tremendous work! I look forward to watching as you sail across oceans!
Beautiful job on the boom. The boat rigging is getting there. It seems quite complicated and it’s fun to follow your progress. Love that you designed your own merch. You should be proud of your progress so far. Nothing better than being able to live out your dream. Keep going. That boat is going to be amazing.
tack/jibe preventer line>crash helmets. I hear the way to prevent the wood rot through the drilled holes is to oversize drill it, fill it with epoxy, then redrill them. that's all my advice from my comfy couch. love watching your channel, btw.
Good work fabricating the boom. Yes, add some filler before laminating, Sharp 90 degrees angles are difficult for fiberglass.
Great jobs mark, and happy birthday to the legend that is your dad Steve
I would make a larger fillet for the fiberglass. and round the edges that need to be rounded, boom is looking Great so far. You have every reason to be stoked, when u got that motor issues running in your favor. Awesome!
Nice job with the boom, generally the fillet radius should be at least 6mm for the glass to bend and stay put.
I’d love to see a video of you and Sam Holmes sit down with a beverage and just chat.
Nice work Mark! The Mahi is really taking shape and not "dodgy."
Hey there! Just got home and got your alert for the video. I look forward to them!
Nice win with the motor man. Take em where you them eh. The boom is coming nicely too. Good job.
Hi mark. I loved that bit about your bedroom being so cozy you couldn’t get out of it. How incredibly honest and funny Mark. 😃
The 4:55 "grimace" and following dumbell struggle- hilarious
I think that for the staysail attachment you need to make a vertical slot in the mast and insert the 2 pieces inside and rivet them from outside. They then will have all the pull against the inside of the mast and then when they are held together outside the mast the 2 parts will be strong.
that sounds very difficult! its already welded together
Well done. Nice work on the boom but i do think you should increase the fillets on it
Not enough fillet. Use a ziploc bag and add and make it a softer corner. Love the shirts that you designed! 🎉❤
Boom Looks Good.!
Many happy returns to Steve ! 'Nice video Mark.
Congratulations , you have grown up so much this year! Great to see 😊😊
From my warm 8,5 meters Long metal Boat I loved this episode. Greetz from Captain Martinez.
Great go at it. Amazing boat. Amazing dude. Fungus is quite damaging indeed. Amazing job! She looks sturdy and well cared for.
Well done Mark, you've put some hard and difficult work behind you and that spirit is now also part of your boat!
You're going to reap a pride and satisfaction feeling that no one can put down on you! It is "your" boat and your dream being made real! I can't wait to get my ride in on your first adventure at least, so I'm following with anxiety to see this beautiful boat finished and sailing out of the expensive past! Best regards!
You probably have been told already, the fast hardener will turn orange/red as it ages. Does not affect the cure. Fun video again, great job! Thanks, Andrew
You are doing great, young Jedi. The boom is going to be great!
yeah - another great vlog - your woodworking skills have really progressed from when you started out - well done 👍
The boom is coming along well. You need a boatswain chair to go up the mass bud. Keep going mark
I like the idea that you are building it ,So you know what is all going into it, that way any maintenance, you'll know how to repair any of it. You're doing a great job, and keep it up 👍🏽👌
113K you made it bro!
Love your channel, You two are down to earth folks doing a great job. Greetings from South Florida USA.
Looking good!
BTW, you'll find it easier to pull your sails up if the halyards exit the mast slightly higher than you can reach, so you can pull down on it, instead of pulling up from the deck. Then you can just hang on it and use your body weight instead of muscle power. Also every pulley adds friction.
And I'd attach your downhaul/cunningham to the gooseneck, or close to it, so the pulls the tack into the mast as well as down.
The boom is looking good. I like how you incorporated the reef points into it; a million times better than any external fittings.
As for it being a hazard: I'm barely even a greenhorn sailor, but having been aboard a 70-foot schooner under sail, all I can say is: it's pretty easy to keep track of, (because it's huge) and if you're the captain, you will know when it's going to move, even if it gybes accidentally.
Good job with the electrics, too- only note I have is to get some dielectric grease, and use it liberally. It's worked very well for me on my motorcycles.
One last comment: astronomy shots?!?! Nice bonus!
Round the edges of the strips before glassing. Love your videos.
Yes, making a bigger filet/cove will make sure you can glass without trapping air under it. Use double bias glass. Mix a little bit of extra epoxy at the same time as you mix the epoxy for the glassing. Thicken it, then apply, smoothing it with a spatula (or similar) you have shaped to give a bigger profile than the mixing stick you used this time. Wet out your glass and apply straight over the wet filet.
Amazing, Mark! Looking good. 😎❤️😎❤️😎
It’s best to use a heat gun for electrical shrink wrap as the flame damaged; electrical tape will soon deteriorate into a sticky mess and has no place on a boat. It’s best to follow a manual for fixing engine as reversing wires can sometimes kill the components. 😊. The Wharram manual should also give Yiu the specs on boom height and filleting.
💡 wetting out is ALWAYS a very good 💡 idea.
very nice Music choise !
Well done Mark. I re-masted a Wharram last Summer too so it's great to see your progress. See you on the water.
Great! Beatiful design in the t-shirt👍
Nice work man! You’re making a first class job!
Looking good.
You need a loop from the tack of the main forward to the mast or you will never get the tension in the foot of the sale as it will just pull the tack away from the mast.
WOW things are looking great! 🤗💖⛵🐕
Good job. Get a pair of ratcheting crimpers for connectors it does a much better job than the ones you are using. Also a tip I just learned on epoxy is to mix the resin and thickener together first and then mix in the hardener and it won’t cut into your set time. It helps a lot in Texas when it’s 100F+ (38°C)
Excellent modifications bruh!
Inspiring the way you keep on grafting, love the vids and dont stop doing what you are doing ❤
I highly recommend coating your outboards in fish oil to protect everything from the salt water can get in spray cans it was we use here in aus
Maybe you have done this before but if it gets cold and you still want to use epoxy. I tend to keep the resin side in a warmer place i.e. closer to 15 - 20 degrees C then it will cure better but not risk exothermic issues. Also if after you have done the laminating you can add more heat carefully with a hear gun or something... Just dont over heat it ! Have fun and happy sailing
Run a round over bit down the protruding hard 90° angle and make a larger fillet and it should do okay, but I think prewetting will help to glue it and then wet out your cloth.....
Make sure you cut the plastic back from the eye-hole contact point. That one has caught me out before.
If the nut tightening on the contact sits on top of the plastic, compressing it, it leaves a small gap that is ideal for corrosion to start at that contact.
Corrosion loves nothing better than confined spaces that will always attract and hold moisture through wicking into the gap.
Love the mini dumbbells mate. Going to take a few reps. 🙂
I was happy your boom turned out good.
When I purchased new kicker motor in the US a 15 hour was not a lot more than a 9.9, might investigate that just for fun. Nice work overall. Be interesting to see how the fight with wood disease works out. Best of luck
As usual, great music, great dancing while working, and great bar bell finger weight lifting…
I'm always so scared to start doing things I've never tried doing before and, as somebody already said, I really admire your indefatigability mate. Good on you!
Been watching since the first video. There is so much to how you figure things out and share. The value of work is often dismissed. Really is inspiring bro.
Happy birthday Steve 💯🏆
Glad you’re adding to the Douglas fir with hardwood laminate. I was worried the design was too bendy for a proper boom. Good job Mark! As for the filet, I would add more thickened epoxy layers so you have 3/4” of radius for better adhesion and less chance of air bubbles. I would also consider laminating in some carbon fiber layers in between some of the fiber cloth layers you’ve planned for better torsion resistance.
you are getting there!!! nice job
The boom fillet should be fine if you use a light weight first layer of fiberglass. It's all about getting full surface contact with no air gaps... ✌👍
I feel as though your boom will split along its length. You could tenon in Somme of those hardwood pieces at the ends to possibly help or get really fancy and make some metal straps for the ends and the reefing points.
Keep working, you are getting there.
I know it adds up fast but throwing in an extra roller or bolt per trip can save you when one breaks just for backup if you haven't been. Always nice having the exact same generic parts laying around.
Very good. That boom will have plenty of strength, I like the no nonsense look to it, reefing will be a snap. Cheers!
Get yourself a set of dolly wheels that you can lay your long lumber on and fasten to wheel on one end the other end on back of bike
You may want to add some steel or aluminum ( 1/2) plates to diameters of bottom of boom just for strength to prevent flexing while under strain.The wood will get wet & want to distort even when epoxied.you should round off any 90 degree corners on boom as well.
I rowed around your catamaran about 4-5 years ago when it was moored in Monnickendam......I won't tell you what I thought 😂😂😂......Anyway, you've made great headway with the project. Keep your chin up...👍
Sounds like a compression issue more than a fuel issue. There should still be fuel in the bowl when starting so the fuel pump won’t make much of a difference when starting. Sounds like it takes a few strokes to build enough pressure to start. Piston rings might be toast. They could come back around though. Run high mileage oil or add a little tranny fluid. Run it for a long while wide open and see if the pressure gets better.
Another great post Mark keep up the great work !
Best Boat channel on the youtubes
You can use a lighter or low torch flame to remove the plastic from the crimp-connectors.
It's not too late to solder your new electrical connections (electronc solder).
Electrical tape will only serve to keep your connections wet.
There is a product called liquid electrical tape that I highly recommend.
Throw a new fuel pump at it.
Once the engine cleared, it really sounded good !!
Maybe a dodger for the cockpit ?
Love the new shirt design !!
Good job all around !!
You are doing well young man. Keep at it, my friend & i know you will succeed & be a happy sailor.
Wow! what a lot of work ! Well done. It's impressive how much video you manage to take whilst doing all that work. Poor old camera though. I have the same problem, somehow always manage to get some paint or sealant on it.. Take care ... Dave
Hardwood would have been a better bet. Something hard and rot resistant. This is where checking the Janka scale of wood hardness would come in handy. I'm glad to see that you've got a boom. I don't know, encapsulating pine may be just fine in a saltwater environment. It was cool to see that you diagnosed that motor and got it going.
Thank you. From Canada
I've used 205 down to freezing temp and it still hardens fine
All you can ask for Mark is progress, and you are progressing mate👍🏻
Well done Mark, you're doing fine.
well Mate have been watching your vids for a few years now and your work skills are just great keep it up one day i might see you down here in New Zealand
Keep that Bluetti above freezing! - extreme cold will knock them out! Never try to charge it up below 4 or 5 C. I have a little 15 watt pet heating pad to warm mine up enough to charge it.
Happy Birthday to the legend that is Steve 🎉🎉
The emergency tape should have gone on first. Then the Heatshrink. Heat shrink can't unravel so it is best as the outer. Also I have mentioned before don't use electrical tape. Use self amalgamating tape. You pull and wrap at the same time creating heat in the tape and it bonds together and is water tight. Regarding the cable try and avoid getting any water or moisture on the core. Even a small amount will corrode the copper and it creeps up the core and becomes brittle and creates a high resistance. Other than that great work on the Boom of Death.
Nice work! Thanks for another good video, keep chasing your dream.
Just a thought Mark, how using a "traveller" for the goose neck and reefing points so that you can slide it to fit all sizes and adjust the tension on the sail where required.
Lube that gooseneck. Looking better all the time ! Cheers
Nice work BOOM BOOM. 🤣🤣 Great video 2x👍 Your mum might need to explain Basil Brush.
I'll explain dont worry 😂😂😂
@@MaryFandStevieG youf of today.
@@MaryFandStevieG 🤣 Thanks 🤣
@@dcallan812..🤗⛵️🤗
@jamesallen712 ...I know!!!😂😂😂
Another great video I've been carrying an opinel knife for years very handy.
opinels are a great narrow blade!
Good work mark love the shirts
LifeLong Boater retired from 46+ years in the Marine Trades says: if you can, begin to use CorrosionX in place of WD40. Far, far superior results and broader application. Costs a bit more, but lasts much longer and takes less product to get the job done. Also more saltwater friendly…
good progress ... make good big filets on that boom