That Lid Lock latch contains two switches, a solenoid and some very complicated fragile mechanics. One switch is the lid down/closed switch that is normally open. It cuts power to the solenoid until the lid is closed. The second switch is normally closed and is open when the solenoid is energized. The solenoid moves up a small white plastic dead bolt that locks the lid closed or open. It is possible for the dead bolt to get out of sequence and you then cannot close the lid. Since you cannot close the lid the solenoid cannot be energized. If the solenoid cannot be energized then the dead bolt cannot be toggled. The program checks the Lid Lock status and operation during wash cycles. My original Lid Lock rusted away as the metal parts are very small and thin. The new replacement Lid Lock had the Red and Blue wires reversed. The Lid Lock circuit attempted to energize a normally closed switch and blew the triac on the control board. This Lid Lock is the worst part of the machine. The program can also get out of sequence in thinking the latch is closed when open and wise versa. Some engineers just need a good hard kick between the legs for not applying the KISS rule.
Yeah I just fried mine as well . I just plugged it in , never pushed any button on the machine and pop! I guess the pole switch has to be on the “off” position before plugging In the machine
@@srjr2531 yeah buy a new circuit board and lid switch lol or go on Facebook market place and buy a direct driven whirlpool kitchenaid maytag amana Crosley roper or estate washer makes life easier just check the coupling and lid switch before buying of course leaks but if transmission is good and all the above make the purchase you'll be set for years to come.
JUST TELL PEOPLE YOU 'CAN'T' BYPASS THE LID LOCK ON THESE NEWER WASHERS ! Older machines sure a direct line tricking it into thinking its locked worked. But these newer machines want to unlock then lock in between cycles. They did that for a reason and not safety they want there 70 bucks from consumers for a part that will almost surely break that's why they did this. So unless u want some tweaker looking switch hanging from your washing machine that you have to go flip along with up down left right on off whatever he said then just find you a broken washer on marketplace that someone is giving away for price of u hauling and take the part off it
Who has that kind of time to spend on each load. I like to stick in a load leave for the day come back toss in dryer done. Can’t baby sit each load. I will put a bullet in the control panel before I chain myself to my washer. Thx anyway.
Im so glad you found this video helpful! This reset is good for any vertical modular washer (VMW). In other words it works for pretty much any top load washer boughten n the last 0-15 years that wasn't made by LG or Samsung (they as well have a similar reset but isnt as universal as the reset you learned). VMW's are distinguishable by the ever so hated lid lock device, not to be confused with the old school lid switch device that allowed you to open the lid at anytime without waiting for the washer to come to a stop and the lid lock to release. If anyones intersted VMW's are sold by Whilrpool Corp.who in return owns almost every american appliance brand such as kenmore, maytag, amana, roper, inglis, crosley and many other brands they are a few brands away from monopolizing the appliance indusrty in the US. Word to the wise: an $800 Maytag VMW lasts just as long as the $550 Roper or Amana VMW and has all the same parts. The only difference is the name and the price. Think of it as buying a shirt from nike and one from walmart. The shirt from walmart is way cheaper and will get the job done, If you think putting more money into appliance will get you more life out of it youll be sad to find out that no matter the price of the appliance they are all pretty much lasting 3-5 years only now not the 20+ we are expecting. Which appliance do i recommend? The generic VMW's sold by Roper, Crosley and Amana. There just as good, last as long and cost less than the Maytag VMW's. I also recommend always adding the 5 year protection plan add on for about $120 which will pay for all future repairs for the next 5 years which will pay for itself 2 or 3 times over after year 2 or 3. The 3 year add on is a waste of money because the machines typically last just long enough to get past 3 years. I hope this tutorial and explanation helps you, your friends and your family god bless you and thank you for watching! Oh and if you don't mind please like the video and subscribe to the channel to help the channel grow so we can reach more families like yours!
Maytag, commercial residential washer. MVWP575GW Thanks again for your response! I do not have the machine yet, as i won't buy unless i can bypass that lid lock so i can see all the cycles agitating. You did a demo wash cycle on this machine, so I hope u still have it to do a demo on bypassing lid lock. The link u sent me above said maytag demo. But it is Amana. I think i saw a video u put of maytag, but it is not clear and not the model i am looking for. Following any written directions is not nearly as good as seeing video. If it is not going to be easy for me to do on my own, i will not be able to buy machine, which i have already done months of research on. It may be too difficult as i am visually impaired and have no one else to do this. Can u do video soon. I have no machine now and cant even drive to laundromat. Hoping i dont need to disconnect and connect wiring. Can
just found this, it seems the easiest way to bypass the lock is to just remove the lock arm from the lid and put it in the lock so it can still work, just need a star or square driver head to remove it. The lid will sit a little high when closed, but small price to pay.
it won't stick out if you take the clip out of the locking part that you suggested to unscrew. flat bladed screwdriver and 30 seconds is all it takes. but great idea coz all the electrical harness crap is ridiculous
Most check that the lock is engaged, if you don't have the lock clip, or something else that works, in the lock it will always think the door is open and not allow use.
@@smash72cutlass30 this post/video was about when the washer won't release the lock after running. Removing the lock from the door and putting it in the lock prevents you from being locked out of your cloths if your machine does that.
You cannot just leave it switched to locked because the computer inside the control panel needs to communicate with the lid lock. i havent figured out any other different way
@@deadliftsfordays5364 Leave it to the dead lifts guy to be getting a little agitated .... smh.... look at the gd thing lmao, if yours looks like that then ROLL onnnn. He is doing this on the door locking mechanism Part #W10682535 and this works completely.
@@deadliftsfordays5364 hahahahha dang you, now I'm jumping off the roof....it's a 1 story but still hahahaha. Most importantly thank you JESUS you have a sense of humor in 2021 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙋🏼♂️ God you're a dying breed I tell ya haha....now what's the max so far 🧐
No dude all you had to do was unscrew the the button on and then take it off and then put it in the lock position and then there you you didn't have to go through all that complicated stuff
@@joniclements3628 Now out of curiosity what do you do when it has to go from lid down to lid down AND locked mode.....meaning red wire was introduced?
@@joniclements3628 because again after finding this video and basically breaking up with the gf to spend 8 hours putting a meter on this machine the red wire HAS to be engaged at the correct time As he was saying making the main vid.
ahahahaha no wonder people fuck up their washing machine - and yes the door lid locks are expensive, if you get the original, some people get it half the price on Amazon and then complain that it stopped working after 3 cycles :P It's worth paying for a brand new lock and peace of mind, much cheaper than having a tech come over and charge you a couple of hundreds of $. What's worse is that those lid locks are cheaply made, very poorly made, no wonder they fail. They probably have a very low limit of lock/unlock cycles before the mf breaks apart.
That Lid Lock latch contains two switches, a solenoid and some very complicated fragile mechanics. One switch is the lid down/closed switch that is normally open. It cuts power to the solenoid until the lid is closed. The second switch is normally closed and is open when the solenoid is energized. The solenoid moves up a small white plastic dead bolt that locks the lid closed or open. It is possible for the dead bolt to get out of sequence and you then cannot close the lid. Since you cannot close the lid the solenoid cannot be energized. If the solenoid cannot be energized then the dead bolt cannot be toggled. The program checks the Lid Lock status and operation during wash cycles. My original Lid Lock rusted away as the metal parts are very small and thin. The new replacement Lid Lock had the Red and Blue wires reversed. The Lid Lock circuit attempted to energize a normally closed switch and blew the triac on the control board. This Lid Lock is the worst part of the machine. The program can also get out of sequence in thinking the latch is closed when open and wise versa. Some engineers just need a good hard kick between the legs for not applying the KISS rule.
don't kick the engineer he or she must not be over 5 years old
I did everything u said and it started working and filled and then made a pop sound and stopped working. Any suggestions appreciated???
Yeah I just fried mine as well . I just plugged it in , never pushed any button on the machine and pop! I guess the pole switch has to be on the “off” position before plugging In the machine
This blew out my control board as well.
@@adriand83 go to Home Depot or Lowe’s and ask for the returned merch or damaged merch , u can get a dope machine for less than half of the msrp
@@srjr2531 yeah buy a new circuit board and lid switch lol or go on Facebook market place and buy a direct driven whirlpool kitchenaid maytag amana Crosley roper or estate washer makes life easier just check the coupling and lid switch before buying of course leaks but if transmission is good and all the above make the purchase you'll be set for years to come.
Can you run it on a different cycle? Or does it have to be normal every time?
Why the hell would I do that, I have to now watch the washer all the time.
I'd rather pay the $60-70 for the part to not have to babysit my washing machine. I appreciate your ingenuity, but this isn't for me
B.c this is a 2-3$ part vs 50-100. Times are hard 🤷🏻♀️
YMMV. I'm sure this tutorial was well-intended, but take this with a grain of salt. I tried this and completely bricked my washer.
yeah I shocked myself to lol trying to push in the connector I thought was loose
JUST TELL PEOPLE YOU 'CAN'T' BYPASS THE LID LOCK ON THESE NEWER WASHERS ! Older machines sure a direct line tricking it into thinking its locked worked. But these newer machines want to unlock then lock in between cycles. They did that for a reason and not safety they want there 70 bucks from consumers for a part that will almost surely break that's why they did this. So unless u want some tweaker looking switch hanging from your washing machine that you have to go flip along with up down left right on off whatever he said then just find you a broken washer on marketplace that someone is giving away for price of u hauling and take the part off it
My Maytag Centenial washer locks as soon as i turn the machine on, it wont let me open it at all unless i push the button to stop the cycle,
Who has that kind of time to spend on each load. I like to stick in a load leave for the day come back toss in dryer done. Can’t baby sit each load. I will put a bullet in the control panel before I chain myself to my washer. Thx anyway.
Im so glad you found this video helpful! This reset is good for any vertical modular washer (VMW). In other words it works for pretty much any top load washer boughten n the last 0-15 years that wasn't made by LG or Samsung (they as well have a similar reset but isnt as universal as the reset you learned). VMW's are distinguishable by the ever so hated lid lock device, not to be confused with the old school lid switch device that allowed you to open the lid at anytime without waiting for the washer to come to a stop and the lid lock to release. If anyones intersted VMW's are sold by Whilrpool Corp.who in return owns almost every american appliance brand such as kenmore, maytag, amana, roper, inglis, crosley and many other brands they are a few brands away from monopolizing the appliance indusrty in the US. Word to the wise: an $800 Maytag VMW lasts just as long as the $550 Roper or Amana VMW and has all the same parts. The only difference is the name and the price. Think of it as buying a shirt from nike and one from walmart. The shirt from walmart is way cheaper and will get the job done, If you think putting more money into appliance will get you more life out of it youll be sad to find out that no matter the price of the appliance they are all pretty much lasting 3-5 years only now not the 20+ we are expecting.
Which appliance do i recommend? The generic VMW's sold by Roper, Crosley and Amana. There just as good, last as long and cost less than the Maytag VMW's. I also recommend always adding the 5 year protection plan add on for about $120 which will pay for all future repairs for the next 5 years which will pay for itself 2 or 3 times over after year 2 or 3. The 3 year add on is a waste of money because the machines typically last just long enough to get past 3 years.
I hope this tutorial and explanation helps you, your friends and your family god bless you and thank you for watching! Oh and if you don't mind please like the video and subscribe to the channel to help the channel grow so we can reach more families like yours!
Maytag, commercial residential washer. MVWP575GW Thanks again for your response! I do not have the machine yet, as i won't buy unless i can bypass that lid lock so i can see all the cycles agitating. You did a demo wash cycle on this machine, so I hope u still have it to do a demo on bypassing lid lock.
The link u sent me above said maytag demo. But it is Amana. I think i saw a video u put of maytag, but it is not clear and not the model i am looking for.
Following any written directions is not nearly as good as seeing video. If it is not going to be easy for me to do on my own, i will not be able to buy machine, which i have already done months of research on. It may be too difficult as i am visually impaired and have no one else to do this.
Can u do video soon. I have no machine now and cant even drive to laundromat.
Hoping i dont need to disconnect and connect wiring.
Can
Can you just leave the switch on always and let it run????
just found this, it seems the easiest way to bypass the lock is to just remove the lock arm from the lid and put it in the lock so it can still work, just need a star or square driver head to remove it. The lid will sit a little high when closed, but small price to pay.
it won't stick out if you take the clip out of the locking part that you suggested to unscrew. flat bladed screwdriver and 30 seconds is all it takes. but great idea coz all the electrical harness crap is ridiculous
Wtf this is for when your lid lock don’t work anymore stupid comment
If it doesn’t work in the door why will it work out of the door you fixed nothing.
Most check that the lock is engaged, if you don't have the lock clip, or something else that works, in the lock it will always think the door is open and not allow use.
@@smash72cutlass30 this post/video was about when the washer won't release the lock after running. Removing the lock from the door and putting it in the lock prevents you from being locked out of your cloths if your machine does that.
So I did this exactly as you said until my new lid lock switch arrived and it fried the circuit board. You have really bad advice.
Came here to say this. Tried this last night. After a few seconds, I heard a loud POP, and my washer's now bricked.
Same here
can't you just keep the toggle on "locked"? and the cycle will go uninterrupted?
You cannot just leave it switched to locked because the computer inside the control panel needs to communicate with the lid lock. i havent figured out any other different way
@@methodmeetsmadness exactly
@@methodmeetsmadness still trying to figure out a way to bypass just putting wires together keep updating bro
Just remove the lid lock stem from the lid and install it in the hole it goes into. Simple.
Unless the lid switch is bad it won't work regardless unless you bypass it period
This is great idea to do in many different ways.!!
someone just gave me one of these for free. im hioping to get it working with something like this.
When you CAN get it working it works soooo much BETTER than Poe's accent in Con air 🤣🤣🤣
So again u are not letting us know what model this is
I think thats important
I'm so sorry for the slow response... yes I'm familiar with that machine ... what is the issue you are having? I can help walk you through it
@@methodmeetsmadness omfg even in this reply you couldn't just tell us what model washer machine you had in the video 🥴
@@deadliftsfordays5364 Leave it to the dead lifts guy to be getting a little agitated .... smh.... look at the gd thing lmao, if yours looks like that then ROLL onnnn. He is doing this on the door locking mechanism Part #W10682535 and this works completely.
@@killtime8 I'm a girl, deadlifts for days ;)
@@deadliftsfordays5364 hahahahha dang you, now I'm jumping off the roof....it's a 1 story but still hahahaha. Most importantly thank you JESUS you have a sense of humor in 2021 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙋🏼♂️ God you're a dying breed I tell ya haha....now what's the max so far 🧐
No dude all you had to do was unscrew the the button on and then take it off and then put it in the lock position and then there you you didn't have to go through all that complicated stuff
Take the text out the middle of the video so we can see
When I cut off my lid lock my wires were blue green white red and black 😭
You should have explained how to remove the faulty switch.
its two screws...
too must work might as well replace the switch , i would do this only if as en emergency .
Curious what you paid for the switch? Other models I found here and there for 40ish but this particular model were 90+
That’s what I think about those machines too take your money
Sorry, this is a maytag, not amana. But still not model i need to see.
"Maytag washing machine....." I ....just....can't....with....this....guy
....lol
Can someone help him with a video
Take a piece of wire connect blue and white together
Leave everything wired as is splice a piece on the white and blue wires
@@joniclements3628 Now out of curiosity what do you do when it has to go from lid down to lid down AND locked mode.....meaning red wire was introduced?
@@joniclements3628 because again after finding this video and basically breaking up with the gf to spend 8 hours putting a meter on this machine the red wire HAS to be engaged at the correct time As he was saying making the main vid.
If not the machine with fill with water but will get stuck in a sense/trying to start to spin "boot loop"
ahahahaha no wonder people fuck up their washing machine - and yes the door lid locks are expensive, if you get the original, some people get it half the price on Amazon and then complain that it stopped working after 3 cycles :P It's worth paying for a brand new lock and peace of mind, much cheaper than having a tech come over and charge you a couple of hundreds of $.
What's worse is that those lid locks are cheaply made, very poorly made, no wonder they fail. They probably have a very low limit of lock/unlock cycles before the mf breaks apart.
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