After years of owning a Disco, here is what I know.. 1. 160 degree Buick thermo and a s-10 thermo fan clutch help(engages sooner) 2.CLean between the rad and the A/C condenser (always fills with bugs/leaves/mud) 3. Most factory temp gages don't show real time info and by the time they show "hot" its too late for system to cool itself when under a load(Ford trucks do this also) 4. Aftermarket Alum larger core rad solves most issues.
That is a lot of good info right there! Thanks, Ron! Well, we’ve got the 160 in there, definitely will blow out the space between the rad and condensor next time we have her through the car wash. When this radiator gives up the ghost, I’ll definitely go with the aluminum!
Ultra gauge is the first and most important thing to install on a D2. It’s a must have!! Life saver on my D2’s. No Bluetooth. Direct connect is the way and no brainer.
An alternative to the ultra gage is the BAFX OBDll reader and the torque app, it will allow you to monitor all the engine parameters in real time at a substantially lower cost. Use your current android phone or an old one for a more permanent display. You can set high and low warnings for any parameter your ECU can output. The display looks way better than the ultra gage as well. 👍
2003 D2 and a few things I did are Inline thermostat mod New expansion tank Ultragauge 180 degree thermostat hayden heavy duty fan clutch, and fan blade for that. Temps do not exceed 210 on the hottest of days and im in Miami Florida. eternal summer and traffic jams
I never knew these existed! That’s a must have for an older rig and can save you a ton of money in the long run. I can see one of these in the Jeeps future 👀
Yeah, I've known about scan gauge for a few years, obviously since I drove a truck with one back in 2015, I just never had the idea something like that was available for passenger vehicles! It's definitely worth looking into, that's for sure!
I used to run an Ultragauge in my 3rd gen 4Runner. Great little gauge and I chose it over the Scan gauge was price and size of gauges. You can also use the UG Temp which shows the temperature of the gauge itself - so that would be an interior gauge.
@@MattKester does it do the transmission temperature on your LR? That was the other reasons for buying it and on the ‘98 model 4runners it does not have that feature. Of course I didn’t know that until after buying the gauge.
I've got mine and still need to install it! I also have a inline thermostat kit I am planning on installing after my first winter with my D2! Thank you for this video!
This makes me want to buy another Disco (I mean, I want like five more anyway lol) to continue researching best thermostat/cooling system set up while monitoring temps. I've been re-reading the manual over and over to try to completely understand the coolant flow and how to get it running as cool as possible in our hot southwest summers.
There is an australian produluct called a tm2. I use it on all my landies. It works of block temp eg bolt that threads into block/cylinder head. Best product!
Most land rover discovery 1 people fail to clarify the huge difference between early D1's and late D1's. Specifically the Early NAS D1 vs. Late NAS D1 *2HO **DOES** mention 1996 and later OBDII in this vid, about 2/3 the way through (~6m stamp or so). I know this is about cooling and though may this may help some DIY'ers on the fuel side as well: Early (1994 - 1995, in the US & Canada [aka: NAS]: 14CUX - 14CUX ECU (engine computer module): Bank fired fuel injection; meaning that all four injectors on one bank would fire and then the other bank would follow (e.g.: 1/3/5/7 then 2/4/6/8). This contributes to poor idle, shorter-lived O2 (lamba) sensors, quicker catalytic burnout (shorter life), etc. - NO OBD2 [aka: OBD-II) .. it is an OBD1 [aka:OBD-I]... which is a huge difference (especially for this video) - NO evaporative recovery fuel pump assembly! The pump is different. - Most of the fuel system related sensors are different (or are specified differently) Late (1996-1999, in the US & Canada [aka: NAS]. GEMS *Note: the D1 was produced through EARLY 1999 and the D2 was ALSO produced in 1999 (call it late '99): - GEMS ECU (engine computer module); This is a true sequential fuel injection system (each injector fires independently of the other 7.. though at higher RPM I am pretty sure these gang fire in similar manner as the 14CUX (Bank Fire: 4 odd then 4 even... gang fire: all 8 fire together). - OBD2 [aka: OBD-II) ..an actually useful sensor port that is highly relevant to this video :-) - Evaporative recovery fuel pump assembly! The pump housing is different than the early NAS D1 - Most of the fuel system related sensors are different (or are specified differently) ...and many more :-) I add this, not (at all) to besmirch 2nd Hand Overland! I add it because my own searches for 1995 NAS (early) D1 wisdom so often falls into the Late D1 hole :-)) Hopefully this helps someone else too. :-) There is a great little document that provides the specs for the fuel system that can be found here (it says p38 but it covers all 1987 through 1999+ D2): p38arover.com/rover/p38a/Engine_Management/LR_Fuel_InjectionSystems.pdf
Great advice and enjoy the channel. For those interested there is a cheaper alternative that works in the same way that I run on my Disco 1. Purchased a Veepeak OBD scan tool and the free car scanner tool for iOS. Can do the same thing and much more with a cellphone for under $20.
Im planning on doing an electric fan conversion for this very reason on my d1. Also the fan clutches on these ive found are temperamental. Especially at idle.
I hear you! I didn’t have many fingernails left after picking up the boy from school the other day. Do you know of any off the shelf kits? Or is this something that’s gotta be custom?
@@MattKester Revotech sells several different ones ive been looking on Rimmerbros. im not sure if they are an exact fit for the d1 v8. they do however have a rover v8 version so must be fairly close fit. Allisport has an entire setup shroud and all but its an aluminum radiator that's a bit costly; id prefer to keep the copper one as they tend to last longer in my experience. I'm planning on going further into looking at different versions this weekend hopefully. planning on adding the 3 way toggle switch also. On, auto and off depending on conditions.
@@krookdfinramany of the kits fail to give a shroud so your fans only cool the bit of the rad they are attached to. Made my own and my electric fan only really needs slow speed.
@@GavinEarnshaw true a shroud would help however id suspect as long as the water pump functions they system itself would keep cool based on the water temp turning the fans on and off. I saw a volvo fan conversion that looked promising. Id like to retain the original wiring if i could however.
@@krookdfinra for my 90 with the larger turbo diesel rad I would find having to run the fan on fast when going slow. Once I'd made the shroud, it would only need slow speed. With one V8 before the shroud I cracked a head even with the fan on full. (the 90 is on its 5th rover V8 now...)
I run ultra gauge, 180 thermo, and a nissens rad. I'm cruising at 188 and idle at 198-210. When it hits 210 aux fan kicks in doesn't go any higher. Oh yea I add water wetter by royal purple as well.
Only thing that concerns me is that if you have an issue with anything plugged into the obd, you could possibly take out your ecm. Maybe not likely but possible. Same with those big brother insurance snoopers.
Sold, thanks for the vid. We just picked up a Disco 2 and on the long ride home form getting it blew a head gasket. At what temperature should you start being concerned and let it cool?
I don’t believe OBD II was a thing until 1996. I would check and see if you’ve got a port for it, but I’m thinking probably not since you’re likely running the 14 CUX motor.
@@MattKester It's going, not finding to much around me here in Washington state. If I do people are asking 5k+ Lot of d2 for cheap. My question I keep asking myself, will the D1 have enough power for the build I want to go with. Full steel bumpers and 33s? I more want the D1 for more being simple to work on. Less electronics deal with. What is your thoughts on that?
@@joshyddog2054 Ours had what were effectively 32's on it when we got it. They're on the 4Runner now and we went a size smaller to 245/75R16's. This thing only put out about 180HP when it left the factory and weighs nearly 6000 lbs loaded. It definitely takes mountain grades on the interstate in the slow lane. In low range, it never wants for power offroad. It hated having 265/75R16's on it. They rubbed everywhere, tore out back fenders and mudflaps and made the torsion bars on the front extra shiny. You're gonna have to do a pretty substantial lift and a lot of cutting with those 33's.
just received mine! very helpful information. Earned my subscription! Also i plugged it in for the first time without turning the ignition and it turned on right away. is this a sign that it will not turn off after using it for the first time on a drive? worried about it draining my battery.
The D2 temp gauge is similar. The needle climbs and the light goes on at 120C. Generally too late. The head gasket will be cooked. Much better if it started to rise at 110C. You can get a Nanocom for the D2. Does a whole lot more than measure the temp. Also you can set a coolant temperature alarm on a Nanocom. BTW, this happened with my son driving home. He filed up the reservoir with water and drove slowly i.e. 80kph, the 50km home. That was back in March. Car is still going well.
Hey Bohica, I just looked up the Nanocom on Bearmach's site, they look really impressive, but they were a bit pricey. We are able to set the alarm temps on the Ultragauge fairly easy and they do chime loud enough for you to notice, that's for sure. Glad that Nanocom saved your motor though, even their prices are a lot less than a blown motor!
I pretty much went with that as a knee jerk reaction and because it was available at the local O'Reilly's. I ended up realizing that the heat issues had less to do with the temp of the thermostat and more to do with the rest of my coming system and I changed out radiators and ened up with the correct 180F one. The 160 kept the temp down, but it was too far down and would cause the car to throw rich mixture codes.
Best piece of kit that I ever purchased for my disco. Once I had it I knew I was driving around too hot and got the 180ﾟ thermostat. It's not rare for me to see anything over 205 After the thermostat was installed.
I don’t know, I think not might not unless yours has the OBDII port under the dash. I imagine there has got to be a way to rig up some sort of analog temp gauge to it though, our buddy Gavin in the UK posted a pic of his 90 in the Facebook group with an analog one installed in his dash.
On my 300tdi I just used the factory sensor fitting on the head for the dash gauge and run it to an aftermarket gauge so I know what temp my coolant is at going up hill in summer. Dash water gauge doesn't work but I'd rather have an accurate reading.
Fed. First step before the 'ultraguage' is to use the correct grade engine oil for your climate in a D1 Rover 242 cu in. V8 ! This should be Castrol 20w40 mineral lubricant for the pre-cat versions and full synthetic 20w50 for other V8 models ? V
I am really interested in a Disco series I, i am about to go inspect one in a few days so i am doing tons of research on the cooling system, head gasket issues, etc, would you say you were unlucky and had a premature thermostat failure??
Yeah, and it probably stems from using a lower quality thermostat. I just swapped out radiators this past week and put an OEM thermostat back in it and it’s running great.
Did the thermostat stop the overheating problem? I have the Ultraguage (Bluetooth) and love it- but all it does is worry me since my truck routinely gets to 212 even with the T-Pipe Thermostat conversion that eliminated the factory system (D2). I hate my truck running that hot- why can't we get these to stay at 180 degrees all day? I'm Wondering if electric fans and an upgraded radiator would do the trick.
Yes, the new thermostat stopped it. You're not the first person to mention electronic fan conversion, I gotta believe if this many people are interested in it that there has to be a kit out there for it!
So! My dad has a disco 1 with a blown engine and a totally eaten up low range transmission. Other than that its at a decent condition. Should I put it back together?? Love your videos a ton!
It would be a hell of a project. Imid it was a few years ago when there were cheaper offroad vehicles a plenty, I’d have said probably not, but in this market, I’d say take a look at it and see what you think you’re gonna have to put in it to make it run. If it’s leas than a four of five grand and everything else is in good shape, I’d think about it because you’re not really gonna find one for leas than that right now, and if you do, there’s no guarantee you won’t be doing the same repairs to it in the near future. That being said, I have absolutely no idea what you’d expect to spend on an entire and a tranny for one at the moment, but we’ve got a great community of Land Rover lovers here who might be able to weigh in in on it a little better.
I bought the 180F thermostat from the link when I did my head gaskets too, should I switch to the 160F thermostat in the link after seeing a spike of 215? How are you liking the 160F?
180 is the one that’s supposed to be in there. The 160 was me putting a band aid on a bullet wound. The reason we weren’t able to keep the temp down had more to do with the rest of the cooling system, I.e. the radiator. If your cooling system is working correctly, a 180 is the optimal thermostat.
So far. I hangs at about 175-185 on the highway, will get closer to 190 at crawling speed with the AC on. I'm sure when the temps cool down around here, it'll probably be best to switch it back to a 180...
@@MattKester I have the same issues with my 190 degree t-stat it gets up to 210-215 then down to 190 and yo-yos back and forth with regular driving. It's not much different when we run trails though. I orderd a 180 and 160 from O'Reilly's. Let's see what happens! My ultraguage has been a big help as well haha
More often that you know the main cause of overheating in a 4.6 is the owner. 1 oil, the engine is a 38 year old design. It has flat tappers the oil should have zinc in it, that will lubricant the contact point where the cam meets the tappet. That will help the engine run properly. 2 the coolant must be correct, it should be changed 24-30 months. If you leave it longer the coolant gets acidic and doesn’t work well. 3 Fans. After a drive check the clutch fan, it should be stiff to turn, if it spins it’s not working. The condenser fan is not just for AC is the last thing to cool you engine, they are neglected and often seized. If the condenser is seized leaves will accumulate behind the fan and that makes the rad ability worse.
High zinc oil has absolutely zero effect. Beyond break in time, these motors don’t need high zinc. Nothing is high pressure. It’s a lazy flat tappet setup.
Hermosa la disco... Al termostato de mi disco de 88 grados celcius, le perfore con una mecha un pequeño agujero para que tenga una pequeña entrada adicional de agua....(muy pequeña) Es TDI 2.5
good info as always Matt! i actually just replaced my thermostat on my xterra recently! i might invest in a ultra gauge just for the extra features, specially the water temp feature. i got the door prize sticker and super cool of you to send a personalize thank you card! you rock brother! 😎🙌👍
Glad the stickers made it! I’m glad you enjoyed it, I really appreciate you guys watching and supporting the show! I’m definitely looking at picking up another ultragauge for the 3rd Gen too!
I am not 100% certain, as we never got the TD5 here in North America. I would assume, though, that if it is OBD II compliant, then it should work. I know there are other systems out there like the Nanocom that I just saw on Bearmach's website that says it's specifically for TD5's, but it looks like its rather pricy. I wonder if anyone else out there might be able to answer if the TD5's are OBD II compliant?
Would you say there was Panic! .... at the Disco. all BS aside ill prolly get one on these for the WJ since heat likes to make things ventilate the heads fairly easy. informative and great content as usual.
I hear you. Apparently there is an inline thermostat conversion kit that our buddy Fitz Venture is running in his D2 that allows you to use more "conventional" looking thermostat in it. I'll try to get some pics and vids of it when we are out this weekend. Here's the link to Inline Thermostats webpage for more information and pricing. inlinethermostats.com
These plastic expansion tanks have been known to crack at the worse moments. And I have had a new one crack in less than 200 miles. I highly suggest replacing the plastic tank with an aluminium tank.
In the 300TDI D1 the water pump and factory water temp sensor are high up in the engine, so if you don't have enough coolant in the system the water pump starts to spin air! The reason the gauge give various readings is because the coolant isn't passing the sensor all of the time. The gauge will drop when when at the engine isn't working hard as the coolant isn't passing the sensor then soon as you accelerate (up a hill) the now super hot coolant will be caught by the pump and pass the sensor sending the gauge skywards. This normally happens after you drained and then refilled the cooling system after some maintenance work. I believe the V8 has the water pump in the same too high engine position. Of course the moral of the story is to keep checking your coolant level!
Whoa... I literally came to your channel to ask you about my overheating issue, then I see this video lol (You can see our comments over at ua-cam.com/video/68hbnFXrZpk/v-deo.html) - Are you guys on Instagram?
Sitting in traffic Rover gets hot...within the first 2 minutes of this video I would suspect FAN clutch, restricted clogged radiator. The temp guage on dash is only an idiot light telling you its too late way after the overheat destroys the engine.. I use GLOW SHIFT GUAGES oil water and battery voltage.
After years of owning a Disco, here is what I know.. 1. 160 degree Buick thermo and a s-10 thermo fan clutch help(engages sooner) 2.CLean between the rad and the A/C condenser (always fills with bugs/leaves/mud) 3. Most factory temp gages don't show real time info and by the time they show "hot" its too late for system to cool itself when under a load(Ford trucks do this also) 4. Aftermarket Alum larger core rad solves most issues.
That is a lot of good info right there! Thanks, Ron! Well, we’ve got the 160 in there, definitely will blow out the space between the rad and condensor next time we have her through the car wash. When this radiator gives up the ghost, I’ll definitely go with the aluminum!
What is the part number for the S-10 thermo fan clutch? Looking to overhaul my cooling system before summer wheeling.
I know this is old, did a bit checking on the S-10 fan clutch, I see from 1998-2008 is the same one.
Ultra gauge is the first and most important thing to install on a D2. It’s a must have!! Life saver on my D2’s. No Bluetooth. Direct connect is the way and no brainer.
Wished I woulda bought ours right off the bat too! Great investment!
What version? There’s two
Thanks for the shout out! Appreciate it.
Anytime! I'll see ya in a few hours!
An alternative to the ultra gage is the BAFX OBDll reader and the torque app, it will allow you to monitor all the engine parameters in real time at a substantially lower cost. Use your current android phone or an old one for a more permanent display. You can set high and low warnings for any parameter your ECU can output. The display looks way better than the ultra gage as well. 👍
Yes. That is a fact. 1st thing I did while signing paperwork during my Disco purchase - ordered an UltraGauge 👍🏼
Agree. 04 Disco. Best purchase besides re-doing the t-stat to make it inline
2003 D2 and a few things I did are
Inline thermostat mod
New expansion tank
Ultragauge
180 degree thermostat
hayden heavy duty fan clutch, and fan blade for that.
Temps do not exceed 210 on the hottest of days and im in Miami Florida. eternal summer and traffic jams
I never knew these existed! That’s a must have for an older rig and can save you a ton of money in the long run. I can see one of these in the Jeeps future 👀
Yeah, I've known about scan gauge for a few years, obviously since I drove a truck with one back in 2015, I just never had the idea something like that was available for passenger vehicles! It's definitely worth looking into, that's for sure!
I used to run an Ultragauge in my 3rd gen 4Runner. Great little gauge and I chose it over the Scan gauge was price and size of gauges. You can also use the UG Temp which shows the temperature of the gauge itself - so that would be an interior gauge.
Oh wow… I think I’ve been using that function thinking it was outside temp!
@@MattKester does it do the transmission temperature on your LR? That was the other reasons for buying it and on the ‘98 model 4runners it does not have that feature. Of course I didn’t know that until after buying the gauge.
@@toddhoffmaster6057 I don’t think it does, I’ll have to check.
It does not do trans temp
I've got mine and still need to install it! I also have a inline thermostat kit I am planning on installing after my first winter with my D2! Thank you for this video!
This makes me want to buy another Disco (I mean, I want like five more anyway lol) to continue researching best thermostat/cooling system set up while monitoring temps. I've been re-reading the manual over and over to try to completely understand the coolant flow and how to get it running as cool as possible in our hot southwest summers.
Now that’s some dedication! Let me know when you get it figured out, I’ll hold the camera while you do the tutorial!
Anytime! Don (Fitz Venture) is going out with us this weekend. I’ll try and shoot some video or photos of his for you to use as a reference.
There is an australian produluct called a tm2. I use it on all my landies. It works of block temp eg bolt that threads into block/cylinder head. Best product!
Most land rover discovery 1 people fail to clarify the huge difference between early D1's and late D1's. Specifically the Early NAS D1 vs. Late NAS D1
*2HO **DOES** mention 1996 and later OBDII in this vid, about 2/3 the way through (~6m stamp or so).
I know this is about cooling and though may this may help some DIY'ers on the fuel side as well:
Early (1994 - 1995, in the US & Canada [aka: NAS]: 14CUX
- 14CUX ECU (engine computer module): Bank fired fuel injection; meaning that all four injectors on one bank would fire and then the other bank would follow (e.g.: 1/3/5/7 then 2/4/6/8). This contributes to poor idle, shorter-lived O2 (lamba) sensors, quicker catalytic burnout (shorter life), etc.
- NO OBD2 [aka: OBD-II) .. it is an OBD1 [aka:OBD-I]... which is a huge difference (especially for this video)
- NO evaporative recovery fuel pump assembly! The pump is different.
- Most of the fuel system related sensors are different (or are specified differently)
Late (1996-1999, in the US & Canada [aka: NAS]. GEMS
*Note: the D1 was produced through EARLY 1999 and the D2 was ALSO produced in 1999 (call it late '99):
- GEMS ECU (engine computer module); This is a true sequential fuel injection system (each injector fires independently of the other 7.. though at higher RPM I am pretty sure these gang fire in similar manner as the 14CUX (Bank Fire: 4 odd then 4 even... gang fire: all 8 fire together).
- OBD2 [aka: OBD-II) ..an actually useful sensor port that is highly relevant to this video :-)
- Evaporative recovery fuel pump assembly! The pump housing is different than the early NAS D1
- Most of the fuel system related sensors are different (or are specified differently)
...and many more :-)
I add this, not (at all) to besmirch 2nd Hand Overland! I add it because my own searches for 1995 NAS (early) D1 wisdom so often falls into the Late D1 hole :-)) Hopefully this helps someone else too. :-)
There is a great little document that provides the specs for the fuel system that can be found here (it says p38 but it covers all 1987 through 1999+ D2):
p38arover.com/rover/p38a/Engine_Management/LR_Fuel_InjectionSystems.pdf
Do you think this device is compatible with a 95 discovery?
Jerry Arizona sent me over. Good review, I like the channel. Subbed.👍🏻
Thank you and we are so glad you are enjoying our channel enough to want to see more!
Great advice and enjoy the channel. For those interested there is a cheaper alternative that works in the same way that I run on my Disco 1. Purchased a Veepeak OBD scan tool and the free car scanner tool for iOS. Can do the same thing and much more with a cellphone for under $20.
Im planning on doing an electric fan conversion for this very reason on my d1. Also the fan clutches on these ive found are temperamental. Especially at idle.
I hear you! I didn’t have many fingernails left after picking up the boy from school the other day. Do you know of any off the shelf kits? Or is this something that’s gotta be custom?
@@MattKester Revotech sells several different ones ive been looking on Rimmerbros. im not sure if they are an exact fit for the d1 v8. they do however have a rover v8 version so must be fairly close fit. Allisport has an entire setup shroud and all but its an aluminum radiator that's a bit costly; id prefer to keep the copper one as they tend to last longer in my experience. I'm planning on going further into looking at different versions this weekend hopefully. planning on adding the 3 way toggle switch also. On, auto and off depending on conditions.
@@krookdfinramany of the kits fail to give a shroud so your fans only cool the bit of the rad they are attached to. Made my own and my electric fan only really needs slow speed.
@@GavinEarnshaw true a shroud would help however id suspect as long as the water pump functions they system itself would keep cool based on the water temp turning the fans on and off. I saw a volvo fan conversion that looked promising. Id like to retain the original wiring if i could however.
@@krookdfinra for my 90 with the larger turbo diesel rad I would find having to run the fan on fast when going slow. Once I'd made the shroud, it would only need slow speed. With one V8 before the shroud I cracked a head even with the fan on full. (the 90 is on its 5th rover V8 now...)
Word. Thanks man. Imma get one today.
Hi, what’s the temperature I should set up the ultragauge
I’ve heard a range from 212 to 220. Mines set at 215.
what do i do for a 95 to get this?
Wondering the same thing, did you ever figure it out?
I run ultra gauge, 180 thermo, and a nissens rad. I'm cruising at 188 and idle at 198-210. When it hits 210 aux fan kicks in doesn't go any higher. Oh yea I add water wetter by royal purple as well.
Only thing that concerns me is that if you have an issue with anything plugged into the obd, you could possibly take out your ecm. Maybe not likely but possible. Same with those big brother insurance snoopers.
Sold, thanks for the vid. We just picked up a Disco 2 and on the long ride home form getting it blew a head gasket. At what temperature should you start being concerned and let it cool?
First!! I got my door prize stickers!! and i thank you for the Card as well, i appreciate the hand written card.
You are welcome, Marc! Thank you for watching and supporting the channel, that means a lot and it was the least I could do!
Hey! Will this work on a 1995 discovery?
I don’t believe OBD II was a thing until 1996. I would check and see if you’ve got a port for it, but I’m thinking probably not since you’re likely running the 14 CUX motor.
wow crazy good info!! Thanks
You're welcome! I'm glad you found us and you're enjoying the content! How's your D1 hunt going?
@@MattKester It's going, not finding to much around me here in Washington state. If I do people are asking 5k+
Lot of d2 for cheap.
My question I keep asking myself, will the D1 have enough power for the build I want to go with. Full steel bumpers and 33s?
I more want the D1 for more being simple to work on. Less electronics deal with.
What is your thoughts on that?
@@joshyddog2054 Ours had what were effectively 32's on it when we got it. They're on the 4Runner now and we went a size smaller to 245/75R16's. This thing only put out about 180HP when it left the factory and weighs nearly 6000 lbs loaded. It definitely takes mountain grades on the interstate in the slow lane. In low range, it never wants for power offroad. It hated having 265/75R16's on it. They rubbed everywhere, tore out back fenders and mudflaps and made the torsion bars on the front extra shiny. You're gonna have to do a pretty substantial lift and a lot of cutting with those 33's.
@@MattKester Good info thanks!!
I will definitely have to keep that in mind for sure!
Thank you for the advice have purchased a ultra gauge , what is the normal operating temp for a 1998 v8 D1 thank you
just received mine! very helpful information. Earned my subscription! Also i plugged it in for the first time without turning the ignition and it turned on right away. is this a sign that it will not turn off after using it for the first time on a drive? worried about it draining my battery.
The D2 temp gauge is similar. The needle climbs and the light goes on at 120C. Generally too late. The head gasket will be cooked. Much better if it started to rise at 110C. You can get a Nanocom for the D2. Does a whole lot more than measure the temp. Also you can set a coolant temperature alarm on a Nanocom. BTW, this happened with my son driving home. He filed up the reservoir with water and drove slowly i.e. 80kph, the 50km home. That was back in March. Car is still going well.
The Ultragauge is capable of setting alarms both high and low on all of the functions.
Hey Bohica, I just looked up the Nanocom on Bearmach's site, they look really impressive, but they were a bit pricey. We are able to set the alarm temps on the Ultragauge fairly easy and they do chime loud enough for you to notice, that's for sure. Glad that Nanocom saved your motor though, even their prices are a lot less than a blown motor!
Just curious, Matt… the 160 degree thermostat you mentioned. What other options are there and why did you go with this one?
I pretty much went with that as a knee jerk reaction and because it was available at the local O'Reilly's. I ended up realizing that the heat issues had less to do with the temp of the thermostat and more to do with the rest of my coming system and I changed out radiators and ened up with the correct 180F one. The 160 kept the temp down, but it was too far down and would cause the car to throw rich mixture codes.
Best piece of kit that I ever purchased for my disco. Once I had it I knew I was driving around too hot and got the 180ﾟ thermostat. It's not rare for me to see anything over 205 After the thermostat was installed.
Yup. I’ll probably catch hell for the 160 in mine at some point, but until we get outta the triple digits on the daily, it’s staying in there!
@@MattKester am sure people would understand if they knew the extreme temperature swings we have here is the valley.
Does this work for a 95?
@@tymeandandy yes. Just make sure you order the part specific to that year.
Sounds like an interesting addition. I wonder how it would work on a Tdi 200. Something to think about in the future.
I don’t know, I think not might not unless yours has the OBDII port under the dash. I imagine there has got to be a way to rig up some sort of analog temp gauge to it though, our buddy Gavin in the UK posted a pic of his 90 in the Facebook group with an analog one installed in his dash.
Engine watchdog cost bit over$100 Australian saved me in several brand of cars
On my 300tdi I just used the factory sensor fitting on the head for the dash gauge and run it to an aftermarket gauge so I know what temp my coolant is at going up hill in summer. Dash water gauge doesn't work but I'd rather have an accurate reading.
Fed. First step before the 'ultraguage' is to use the correct grade engine oil for your climate in a D1 Rover 242 cu in. V8 ! This should be Castrol 20w40 mineral lubricant for the pre-cat versions and full synthetic 20w50 for other V8 models ? V
Is there anything I can do on my 1995 land Rover discovery 1? I wasn't sure if I could get one of these as mines older.
Do you recommend the Ultra-Guage EM or MX?
Hello, I have a Discovery 1 300tdi auto with EDC, which Ultragauge is the best to order, the MX or the EM?
Thanks, Bart
it does have an external thermometer, just push the EXT button on the climate control unit
So this Guage is telling you the motor is hot, but what are you doing to mitigate the actual over heating issues that our discos have?
I am really interested in a Disco series I, i am about to go inspect one in a few days so i am doing tons of research on the cooling system, head gasket issues, etc, would you say you were unlucky and had a premature thermostat failure??
Yeah, and it probably stems from using a lower quality thermostat. I just swapped out radiators this past week and put an OEM thermostat back in it and it’s running great.
Did the thermostat stop the overheating problem? I have the Ultraguage (Bluetooth) and love it- but all it does is worry me since my truck routinely gets to 212 even with the T-Pipe Thermostat conversion that eliminated the factory system (D2). I hate my truck running that hot- why can't we get these to stay at 180 degrees all day? I'm Wondering if electric fans and an upgraded radiator would do the trick.
Yes, the new thermostat stopped it. You're not the first person to mention electronic fan conversion, I gotta believe if this many people are interested in it that there has to be a kit out there for it!
So! My dad has a disco 1 with a blown engine and a totally eaten up low range transmission. Other than that its at a decent condition. Should I put it back together?? Love your videos a ton!
It would be a hell of a project. Imid it was a few years ago when there were cheaper offroad vehicles a plenty, I’d have said probably not, but in this market, I’d say take a look at it and see what you think you’re gonna have to put in it to make it run. If it’s leas than a four of five grand and everything else is in good shape, I’d think about it because you’re not really gonna find one for leas than that right now, and if you do, there’s no guarantee you won’t be doing the same repairs to it in the near future. That being said, I have absolutely no idea what you’d expect to spend on an entire and a tranny for one at the moment, but we’ve got a great community of Land Rover lovers here who might be able to weigh in in on it a little better.
Rad Video!!
I bought the 180F thermostat from the link when I did my head gaskets too, should I switch to the 160F thermostat in the link after seeing a spike of 215? How are you liking the 160F?
180 is the one that’s supposed to be in there. The 160 was me putting a band aid on a bullet wound. The reason we weren’t able to keep the temp down had more to do with the rest of the cooling system, I.e. the radiator. If your cooling system is working correctly, a 180 is the optimal thermostat.
@@MattKester Thanks! Ill return the 160 then
@@MattKester so will the 160 ruin the motor? The previous dude that had the disco put in a 160 degree thermostat and a flowkooler water pump
How has the Rover been running with a 160 temp sensor in there? No issues getting up to temp I assume?
So far. I hangs at about 175-185 on the highway, will get closer to 190 at crawling speed with the AC on. I'm sure when the temps cool down around here, it'll probably be best to switch it back to a 180...
@@MattKester I have the same issues with my 190 degree t-stat it gets up to 210-215 then down to 190 and yo-yos back and forth with regular driving. It's not much different when we run trails though. I orderd a 180 and 160 from O'Reilly's. Let's see what happens! My ultraguage has been a big help as well haha
More often that you know the main cause of overheating in a 4.6 is the owner. 1 oil, the engine is a 38 year old design. It has flat tappers the oil should have zinc in it, that will lubricant the contact point where the cam meets the tappet. That will help the engine run properly. 2 the coolant must be correct, it should be changed 24-30 months. If you leave it longer the coolant gets acidic and doesn’t work well. 3 Fans. After a drive check the clutch fan, it should be stiff to turn, if it spins it’s not working. The condenser fan is not just for AC is the last thing to cool you engine, they are neglected and often seized. If the condenser is seized leaves will accumulate behind the fan and that makes the rad ability worse.
High zinc oil has absolutely zero effect.
Beyond break in time, these motors don’t need high zinc. Nothing is high pressure. It’s a lazy flat tappet setup.
Hermosa la disco...
Al termostato de mi disco de 88 grados celcius, le perfore con una mecha un pequeño agujero para que tenga una pequeña entrada adicional de agua....(muy pequeña)
Es TDI 2.5
Acá en Argentina, fabrican para los defender y Discovery un radiador con una fila extra 😉😉
good info as always Matt! i actually just replaced my thermostat on my xterra recently! i might invest in a ultra gauge just for the extra features, specially the water temp feature. i got the door prize sticker and super cool of you to send a personalize thank you card! you rock brother! 😎🙌👍
Glad the stickers made it! I’m glad you enjoyed it, I really appreciate you guys watching and supporting the show! I’m definitely looking at picking up another ultragauge for the 3rd Gen too!
Does this work with TD5?
I am not 100% certain, as we never got the TD5 here in North America. I would assume, though, that if it is OBD II compliant, then it should work. I know there are other systems out there like the Nanocom that I just saw on Bearmach's website that says it's specifically for TD5's, but it looks like its rather pricy. I wonder if anyone else out there might be able to answer if the TD5's are OBD II compliant?
Td5 isn't OBD2 compliant but supposedly this works on them.
Would you say there was Panic! .... at the Disco. all BS aside ill prolly get one on these for the WJ since heat likes to make things ventilate the heads fairly easy. informative and great content as usual.
luck you for having a normal tstat instead of that weird disco 2 one lol
I hear you. Apparently there is an inline thermostat conversion kit that our buddy Fitz Venture is running in his D2 that allows you to use more "conventional" looking thermostat in it. I'll try to get some pics and vids of it when we are out this weekend. Here's the link to Inline Thermostats webpage for more information and pricing. inlinethermostats.com
How about us folks with 95 OBD1 disco. What is our solution:)?
Thoughts and prayers?
Ordered
These plastic expansion tanks have been known to crack at the worse moments. And I have had a new one crack in less than 200 miles. I highly suggest replacing the plastic tank with an aluminium tank.
In the 300TDI D1 the water pump and factory water temp sensor are high up in the engine, so if you don't have enough coolant in the system the water pump starts to spin air! The reason the gauge give various readings is because the coolant isn't passing the sensor all of the time. The gauge will drop when when at the engine isn't working hard as the coolant isn't passing the sensor then soon as you accelerate (up a hill) the now super hot coolant will be caught by the pump and pass the sensor sending the gauge skywards. This normally happens after you drained and then refilled the cooling system after some maintenance work.
I believe the V8 has the water pump in the same too high engine position. Of course the moral of the story is to keep checking your coolant level!
I swear by my Ultragauge.
Absolutely!
Hey! Is this compatible with a 95 discovery?
Whoa... I literally came to your channel to ask you about my overheating issue, then I see this video lol (You can see our comments over at ua-cam.com/video/68hbnFXrZpk/v-deo.html) - Are you guys on Instagram?
Sitting in traffic Rover gets hot...within the first 2 minutes of this video I would suspect FAN clutch, restricted clogged radiator. The temp guage on dash is only an idiot light telling you its too late way after the overheat destroys the engine.. I use GLOW SHIFT GUAGES oil water and battery voltage.