John Deere 4410 / 4310 / 4210 FRONT AXLE SEAL REPLACEMENT, COMPACT TRACTOR
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- Опубліковано 25 жов 2021
- Step by step instructions to replace the front axle wheel seals on a John Deere 4210 / 4310 / 4410 compact tractor.
Seal # LVA16814 replaced # LVU10836Spicer part # S20HH126. Use gasket maker Loctite High Flex Gasket Maker, part # 38657 - Авто та транспорт
Thanks, this was incredibly helpful. You have a talent for teaching.
That is the best comment I've received. Thanks.
I've got the very same job ahead of me. Your video tutorial was outstanding. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. I looked for info beforehand. Not finding a video specific, I hoped that making this would help others.
Great walk through, have a 4300 which I think has the same assembly but still need to double check. Two leaking seals also. You win the internet for the day for me.
Thanks Brett. Appreciate the positive comment.
@@wdgaylord I did it with no issues. Thanks man
@@TheyCallMeMrGuns It's good to get feedback that the vid helped someone. Thanks.
I just completed the seal installation on my original owner 2002 Deere 4300 tractor (800 hrs.). I don't know if all the snow removal (all 4 tires chained up) I did this last winter caused the problem or not. I also spun a front tire off (opposite tire) and installed a new tube in the tubeless tire. A few comments, it took about 40 strokes on a fabricated slide hammer puller before I broke loose the drive cover from the housing. I didn't understand the 2 piece seal comments until I got into the assembly. I set the seal about .060" above the edge as several videos suggested. I have a 700 page factory manual, but really worthless as far as the task at hand. Everything went fine until the assembly with my 12 ton press. It didn't have enough power. I disassembled it, thinking I screwed up, but everything looked fine. I then pressed the larger bearing on with the spacer on top and socket over shaft. Went on fine, but the seal was now about .030" above the lip after pressing. I don't know if the seal would have moved less if I could press the entire assembly as shown in various videos. The other front assembly even has a smaller gap when viewed. Finished pressing on the remaining components and measured the top of the shaft to the race of the smaller bearing and it was .239", the same as before disassembly with easy clearance for the snap ring. So far no leaks. I also used a 3rd party seal that was $34.
Thanks for the summary. Glad the vid helped. My press was 20 ton but I didn't feel like it was loaded at all.
I bet others would appreciate you responding with the 3rd party seal info that was considerably less $$.
Great video.
Thanks. Glad it helps out.
Thank you, I’m about to replace the seal in my 3520. Now to find a slide hammer
A slide hammer isn't a glorious tool and it will spend more time than your other tools on a shelf but when needed, it's invaluable.
The lip on the seal was pretty stout. I'd expect it would flex around a minor groove. Are you sure you weren't looking at a machined area for the seal to ride?
I would take it apart, clean up the mating surfaces and try again.
Really excellent video
I did mines following your video
Went good
It started to leak again
When a change it I had the impression there was tiny groove where the seal was rubbing on the “hub shaft”
Is there any fix you can think or need to buy a new hub ?
Thanks for the thorough video. It gave me the confidence to tackle the project, but I have run into some issues. I have a giant nut - about 1-3/8" where you had the snap ring. All of the parts diagrams look exactly like yours, but I can't seem to find an alternative build diagram. Guessing I have only one bearing and a seal, but I can't get past the nut yet. Tried re-bolting the hub to the tire for more leverage, but haven't gotten it yet...
$150 and a trip to HF will get this 3/4” pneumatic impact. It’s not a tool you will use every day but it’s no joke. I have one for just such problems. Part #66984
Great video. Love how you explain tips like using the screwdriver to capture the snapring.
The job on my 790 is a little harder - I have to replace the seal sleeves as the seals went so long without service that the sleeves were rusted and pitted. There are three per side on the front wheel drive system.
The only way I found to remove the sleeves was to heat them with a propane torch until the rubber softened and began bubbling/smoking. Do you have a good way of installing new seal sleeves? I don’t have an appropriately sized bushing to use with my press. I don’t want to use undue force on the flange of the sleeve for fear of bending it. I was thinking of putting the sleeve in boiling water to soften the rubber and heating the hub shaft in the oven to 180 or 200F.
Thanks for the positive comment. Sorry about your seal sleeves though. I've not had a need to go in that deep so I don't have any insight for you.
Really appreciate the video. It is a great tutorial. I have to replace a seal on a 4200. I'm curious if it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace both front seals.
Thanks for the positive feedback. The additional cost to replace a second seal at the time you are replacing the failed seal is only the cost of the second seal of some of your time. You can replace both seals in one Saturday so I’d say, if you are cleaning up the tracker and tackling one seal, it would be a good time to do the other assuming the first seal failure is due to end-of-life.
Thanks I’m putting mine back together today…is there a torque spec for bolting it back together?
I checked the torque on mine during disassembly. As I recall, it was about 20 ft lbs.
Hi Mr. Dee
First... tks for the great video, it's really appreciate and so well done.
Hi have 2 questions :
1- Could you give more info about the "neumatic impact ram hydraulic pump" on the press, that you speak of in the video, because I don't really understand what it is exactly and I find it really nice that it "impact" while pressing ?
2- Could you give me some more info or what ref. manual you refer to. On where you get the info, telling the seal face must be 0.060" above the face of the cover.
Because,
I have a John Deere 4400 compact tractor date 2000 and in my Technical manual for the... "4200, 4300 and 4400 Compact Utility tractors technical Manual TM1677 (Apr01) replaces TM1677 (Jul99)". I don't find the info of the 0,060" so I am wondering if I need another manual that contain more details ?
Tks again for the great info.
Sorry it took me so long to reply to you. I didn't notice the comment until now.
My press came with a 20 ton hydraulic bottle jack.
I bought a 20 ton bottle jack with pneumatic option. It lets me run the bottle jack using air or manually. It's just faster.
The clearance I referred to was on the information sheet that came with the seals.
@@wdgaylord Thank you sooo much, I changed my seal and a bearing also, your video was a great help, very well done and with all the good details.
Tks again.
great video and explaining every step, do you know if this is the same on the 3038r?
Sorry friend, I don't know.
I'll let you know how similar it is.
Thanks. That will be good feedback that may help others.
Looks the same in 2025r. I have a problem with the rim and bolt. :(. Maybe they make it bad. :(. But nice video. Thanks for the inf
John Deere Parts website
partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/pin/LV4410H342321/equipment/81218/referrer/navigation/pgId/2444972
A great video/tutorial. I have a 700 page factory service manual for my 2002, Deere 4300 (sync reverser-SRT) and it's not nearly complete as your instructions. I already have all the tools except the puller which I can fabricate/weld. I made a sliding weight puller years ago for roll pins, etc. that I can adapt. One question for you or other people reading this. I also have a small oil drip out of the plug (about 3" diameter) at the bottom of the front gear case. It looks like you have to punch it and pry out and replace ($12). Looks like it keeps oil in and dust out of the bottom of the gear case. Part number LVU25556 or LVU20868. Any help is appreciated. I will also post this on a tractor forum. Thanks again.
Thank you for the positive response and glad I could help. I looked up the part # that you mentioned. It looks as there may be an o-ring around it.
@@wdgaylord I already ordered one, 2 different numbers from Deere?, but it doesn't look like it can be removed without destroying it which is fine. I just didn't want to damage something else. Small pipe plug on the side of the housing just above the 3" plug, I assume for draining any oil out of the gear case. I don't know if your 4310 had that. I'm just guessing it does and that would reduce the oil coming out when you pulled the hub. Thanks again! I know it's a lot more trouble to video the repair, but people like me really appreciate it.
Please tell me what snap ring tool you used?
Amazon: "Astro Pneumatic Tool 94222 13" 4pc Large Internal/External Snap Ring Pliers"
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JBIM2CU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
on a 2 piece seal doesn't the outer seal have to pressed onto the spindle side then the seal itself pressed onto the hub then they mate together when put together?!?!?
The seal is a one piece. The rubber portion is bonded to the metal ring and the metal ring is pressed into the housing.