Excellent video, thank you for posting it. I would recommend venting the axle. I have a 2001 4700 tractor, 5-6 yrs ago had oil seeping from top seal on spindle axle housing,once I vented the axle it’s been bone dry since. One other modification I would recommend. The 2 caps ( freeze plugs) are glued in place. Two weeks ago I was removing snow and when I parked tractor in barn I noticed the 2caps on the floor. Lost 2 gallons of axle fluid without ever knowing the axle was running dry for about an hour. I reglued the caps with ( loctite retaining compound 620 jd recommends it) and as a safety precaution I fabricated 2u shape brackets to support the caps. I used the bottom 2 bolts of the hub gear housing ( mine has 8 bolts) and replaced the pipe oil drain plug with a brass hexagon drain bolt. Auto part stores stock them.i also installed a 1/4” x 1/2” rubber piece glued and fastened to bracket under cap for support and preventing noise vibration. Hope this helps.
Great video! I just finished my 4310 hystat front seals. someone had swapped a whole front final from 4200 tractor and it was different. had tapered bearings instead. anyways lv14181 was the seal for that side.
A good instructive video. I just completed the seal installation on my original owner 2002 Deere 4300 tractor (800 hrs.). I don't know if all the snow removal (all 4 tires chained up) I did this last winter caused the problem or not. I also spun a front tire off (opposite tire) and installed a new tube in the tubeless tire. A few comments, it took about 40 strokes on a fabricated slide hammer puller before I broke loose the drive cover from the housing. I didn't understand the 2 piece seal comments until I got into the assembly. I set the seal about .060" above the edge as several videos suggested. I have a 700 page factory manual, but really worthless as far as the task at hand. Everything went fine until the assembly with my 12 ton press. It didn't have enough power. I disassembled it, thinking I screwed up, but everything looked fine. I then pressed the larger bearing on with the spacer on top and socket over shaft. Went on fine, but the seal was now about .030" above the lip after pressing. I don't know if the seal would have moved less if I could press the entire assembly as shown in various videos. The other front assembly even has a smaller gap when viewed. Finished pressing on the remaining components and measured the top of the shaft to the race of the smaller bearing and it was .239", the same as before disassembly with easy clearance for the snap ring. So far no leaks. I also used a 3rd party seal that was $34.
Thanks for the feedback. The 4300 is a great machine. Let me know if you have anything else that your planning on fixing on your 4300. I have a 4310 that I'll be tinkering with soon, so looking for video requests :-)
Man I sure wish I would have seen this video before my seal replacement. That two piece seal was a real pain, especially on the spindle side. I think looking back at it now, I would have used a hole saw and cut some wood to fit over it and tried that way. If you can imagine, I used a few rolls or duct tape because the cardboard roller fits over it almost perfect. Kinda ruined the tape though. In the end, no leaks yet but it's only been a couple of days now. Other people have had a harder time getting the Assy to seal. Thanks for the content!
@@darrenmas awsome thanks i ended up buying the service manual as well. Looks like a 1 piece seal that taps into the housing. My left side is blown and the right seems, also want to replace the pivot seals. It was my father n laws tractor. He passed away and we inherited it
Excellent video, thank you for posting it.
I would recommend venting the axle.
I have a 2001 4700 tractor, 5-6 yrs ago had oil seeping from top seal on spindle axle housing,once I vented the axle it’s been bone dry since. One other modification I would recommend. The 2 caps ( freeze plugs) are glued in place. Two weeks ago I was removing snow and when I parked tractor in barn I noticed the 2caps on the floor. Lost 2 gallons of axle fluid without ever knowing the axle was running dry for about an hour. I reglued the caps with ( loctite retaining compound 620 jd recommends it) and as a safety precaution I fabricated 2u shape brackets to support the caps. I used the bottom 2 bolts of the hub gear housing ( mine has 8 bolts) and replaced the pipe oil drain plug with a brass hexagon drain bolt. Auto part stores stock them.i also installed a 1/4” x 1/2” rubber piece glued and fastened to bracket under cap for support and preventing noise vibration. Hope this helps.
Thanks for you feedback and your tips. The freeze plugs tip is something I bet many people would find helpful. Thanks again. Love these JDs....
Great video! I just finished my 4310 hystat front seals. someone had swapped a whole front final from 4200 tractor and it was different. had tapered bearings instead. anyways lv14181 was the seal for that side.
Very informative, my son needs to do this to his 4300
Thanks for the feedback. Happy Fathers Day…
A good instructive video. I just completed the seal installation on my original owner 2002 Deere 4300 tractor (800 hrs.). I don't know if all the snow removal (all 4 tires chained up) I did this last winter caused the problem or not. I also spun a front tire off (opposite tire) and installed a new tube in the tubeless tire. A few comments, it took about 40 strokes on a fabricated slide hammer puller before I broke loose the drive cover from the housing. I didn't understand the 2 piece seal comments until I got into the assembly. I set the seal about .060" above the edge as several videos suggested. I have a 700 page factory manual, but really worthless as far as the task at hand. Everything went fine until the assembly with my 12 ton press. It didn't have enough power. I disassembled it, thinking I screwed up, but everything looked fine. I then pressed the larger bearing on with the spacer on top and socket over shaft. Went on fine, but the seal was now about .030" above the lip after pressing. I don't know if the seal would have moved less if I could press the entire assembly as shown in various videos. The other front assembly even has a smaller gap when viewed. Finished pressing on the remaining components and measured the top of the shaft to the race of the smaller bearing and it was .239", the same as before disassembly with easy clearance for the snap ring. So far no leaks. I also used a 3rd party seal that was $34.
Thanks for the feedback. The 4300 is a great machine. Let me know if you have anything else that your planning on fixing on your 4300. I have a 4310 that I'll be tinkering with soon, so looking for video requests :-)
Man I sure wish I would have seen this video before my seal replacement. That two piece seal was a real pain, especially on the spindle side. I think looking back at it now, I would have used a hole saw and cut some wood to fit over it and tried that way. If you can imagine, I used a few rolls or duct tape because the cardboard roller fits over it almost perfect. Kinda ruined the tape though. In the end, no leaks yet but it's only been a couple of days now. Other people have had a harder time getting the Assy to seal. Thanks for the content!
thanks for the feedback...
Excellent video! Very helpful, and thanks for making this.
Thanks for the feedback. Glad it was helpful.
Is this the same for the 3038e?
Yes should be same process/procedure. Seal part number is different so not sure if the 3038e uses a 1 or 2 piece seal.
@@darrenmas awsome thanks i ended up buying the service manual as well. Looks like a 1 piece seal that taps into the housing. My left side is blown and the right seems, also want to replace the pivot seals. It was my father n laws tractor. He passed away and we inherited it