Thanks for posting the videos. I bought a used 790 in 2018 with 1000 hours on it. I have a 419 loader that I use with it. I have put 200 hours on the tractor in the last 5 years and check and change all fluids on schedule. Started having a problem with the front right wheel locking up this week. Jacked up the front and noticed some interference when freely rotating the front right. I suppose I will be tearing the two front assemblies down as per your video and putting in some new parts. This is the first modern tractor that I own. Been using John Deere model M's since I could reach the pedals on them (around 1968), so having to get used to modern technology. The 790 was a good fit for my tree farms. Same width as my model M tractors. Wish me success on the rebuild. I never claimed to be a mechanic!
Hi Winford, I think you will be just fine. I personally would not work on the left side unless there is a problem. From what you have said, you will need a bearing and seal on the right side. I think you can do it. Thank you for watching and leaving nice comments...
About Snap Ring installation to think about. Snap rings keep in what wants to escape, is one way to put it. All Snap Rings have a rounded side and a sharp side. It is ideal to put the sharp side opposite of the seal or bearing, which is the strongest resistance to that seal or bearing from escaping. Is it critical? Not so much, but it is the best.
My 790 has 667 hours in it. Waiting for this to happen. I'm retired mechanic and service manager, but never been into one of these. My brother, also a mechanic told me this was a common problem. BTW, you look like you could be twin brother of a very good banjo player I know of. I recognized your dialect and you mentioned Tri Green so I figured you're in Tennessee. Check out Daniel Grindstaff banjo, perhaps you are familiar with his music. Appreciate your verse and good spirit.
Sir, you have again made my day. You have me pinned. It is in the water here. I am a huge banjo fan, turkey hunter, country boy...you are correct in all points. The repair will be a cakewalk for you sir. Deere corporate actually was on the phone with me everyday during these repairs. They sent me a cd rom/floppy disk and everything else they could do. The greatest people in their conduct toward me. Again, you will be fine. I make it look harder than it is. I appreciate this interaction and wish you the best of luck and safety with your repair and use of your tractor....
I always enjoy a good fix it yourself video. I just bought a 2013 John Deere 2032R. My first Tractor and I’m 50 I started late I guess lol I turned wrenched owning My own shops for over 25 years but it’s funny I’ve never worked on a tractor. So i did the smart thing and I paid the $25 for the downloaded repair manual😉 The guy I bought it from a small “dealer” in miss quads bikes tractors ect sold it to me with the right final drive blown to hell. When I called him he said it was in perfect working order when he sold it to me 😳 ummmm nope it wasn’t. He did offer to pay for some of the parts tho. We’ll see if he does or not. I doubt it but ya never know. Your tractors a little different than mine but anyways it wasn’t too bad to take apart. I do wish I still had my shop tho cuz doing it in my driveway that’s all mud right now kinda sucked. Plus I’m out of shape BAD 🤫🥴🤣🤣 I didn’t see any videos for repairing the final drive for the 2032 maybe I’ll try to make my first ever video 🎥 I’ll just use my hands like other people do I’m to ugly to be on video😂 Ok off to watch more of your videos. Keep up the good work buddy. Always remember when someone comments and you think they are being negative Many times they just want to give advice but many times they really don’t know exactly what your working on and shouldn’t. They just can’t help themselves 🤪 this is why I use emojis so people know I’m happy go lucky not trying to criticize or make them look dumb. No tone in a reply so Use emojis😉 Sorry for the long useless reply with no criticisms👍🏻
The seals should be installed with Loctite for seals, not grease. The seals need to be anchored with this anaerobic sealer. Just Saying. I would also recommend that one seal on the bearing be removed and pack the bearing with a good Synthetic Grease, then put the seal back on. You should not pound on any race with a punch either, but rather a socket the same size as the outer race, to prevent hot spots on the race. The punch will make microscopic upheavals in the race and the bearings will not be smooth running as they should be. I am a Mechanic trainer for 40 years.
Mr. Daniel, thank you for the view and professional commentary. I have tried this repair twice. Once with the double-sealed bearing packed with grease. This unit is designed to run bearings in the gear oil. Deere corporate assisted me on the phone during these repairs. As to the seal installation, the leak occurs where the axle spins inside the seal, not where the seal contacts the housing.Others have commented in a negative way as to my methods also, but not in an articulate and kind way as you have, Again thank you for your kindness and views and commentary. If you are watching the cabin build you will notice the tractor is still in service and dependable.
@@Brian2bears Sir: Thank you for your Reply. I did not know that the bearing ran in oil. The only question then is how the oil gets past the seals on the bearing to get into the bearing?
@@danielhilden7181 Mr. Daniel, the o.e.m. bearing is not double sealed and if I am not mistaken, the seal is a separate part from the bearing. The visual I give in the video is aftermarket. The John Deere part number for the seal mounts in the hub and is substantial in comparison to aftermarket as I found out. As to the how, if you can stand to watch video 4, the gear and bearing are exposed as I install them. The axle is then filled with gear oil.
Hello Mr. Eddie, I did not use a sleeve. To clarify, you mean was a sleeve used to protect the seals during installation? I did not. The tractor is still in service at this time. Thank you for watching.
I use a small supplier called Volunteer Bearing, however the best seals are John Deere and are only available through Tri-Green. Thanks for the reply/comments.
@@Ranchready496 I communicated with Corporate Deere's head engineer with that very question and the answer is yes. The strength is not that much greater, but somewhat improved. The issue is cost. It may be best to use a larger or different tractor, putting that expense toward something else.
That is correct. One seal from the factory. The OEM is the best available as far as durability is concerned. The aftermarket seals are much narrower and do not last as long. Thank you for your views and comments.
Thanks for posting the videos. I bought a used 790 in 2018 with 1000 hours on it. I have a 419 loader that I use with it. I have put 200 hours on the tractor in the last 5 years and check and change all fluids on schedule. Started having a problem with the front right wheel locking up this week. Jacked up the front and noticed some interference when freely rotating the front right. I suppose I will be tearing the two front assemblies down as per your video and putting in some new parts. This is the first modern tractor that I own. Been using John Deere model M's since I could reach the pedals on them (around 1968), so having to get used to modern technology. The 790 was a good fit for my tree farms. Same width as my model M tractors. Wish me success on the rebuild. I never claimed to be a mechanic!
Hi Winford, I think you will be just fine. I personally would not work on the left side unless there is a problem. From what you have said, you will need a bearing and seal on the right side. I think you can do it. Thank you for watching and leaving nice comments...
About Snap Ring installation to think about. Snap rings keep in what wants to escape, is one way to put it. All Snap Rings have a rounded side and a sharp side. It is ideal to put the sharp side opposite of the seal or bearing, which is the strongest resistance to that seal or bearing from escaping. Is it critical? Not so much, but it is the best.
Great advice Mr. Daniel...thank you.
I have brass drifts for driving and wood sometimes if you don't support the inner race it's like hammering on the inner race best to press not beat.
Yes sir Mr. Rick...very sound advice...
My 790 has 667 hours in it. Waiting for this to happen. I'm retired mechanic and service manager, but never been into one of these. My brother, also a mechanic told me this was a common problem. BTW, you look like you could be twin brother of a very good banjo player I know of. I recognized your dialect and you mentioned Tri Green so I figured you're in Tennessee. Check out Daniel Grindstaff banjo, perhaps you are familiar with his music. Appreciate your verse and good spirit.
Sir, you have again made my day. You have me pinned. It is in the water here. I am a huge banjo fan, turkey hunter, country boy...you are correct in all points. The repair will be a cakewalk for you sir. Deere corporate actually was on the phone with me everyday during these repairs. They sent me a cd rom/floppy disk and everything else they could do. The greatest people in their conduct toward me. Again, you will be fine. I make it look harder than it is. I appreciate this interaction and wish you the best of luck and safety with your repair and use of your tractor....
I always enjoy a good fix it yourself video.
I just bought a 2013 John Deere 2032R. My first Tractor and I’m 50 I started late I guess lol
I turned wrenched owning My own shops for over 25 years but it’s funny I’ve never worked on a tractor. So i did the smart thing and I paid the $25 for the downloaded repair manual😉
The guy I bought it from
a small “dealer” in miss quads bikes tractors ect sold it to me with the right final drive blown to hell. When I called him he said it was in perfect working order when he sold it to me 😳 ummmm nope it wasn’t.
He did offer to pay for some of the parts tho. We’ll see if he does or not. I doubt it but ya never know.
Your tractors a little different than mine but anyways it wasn’t too bad to take apart. I do wish I still had my shop tho cuz doing it in my driveway that’s all mud right now kinda sucked.
Plus I’m out of shape BAD 🤫🥴🤣🤣
I didn’t see any videos for repairing the final drive for the 2032 maybe I’ll try to make my first ever video 🎥
I’ll just use my hands like other people do I’m to ugly to be on video😂
Ok off to watch more of your videos. Keep up the good work buddy. Always remember when someone comments and you think they are being negative Many times they just want to give advice but many times they really don’t know exactly what your working on and shouldn’t. They just can’t help themselves 🤪 this is why I use emojis so people know I’m happy go lucky not trying to criticize or make them look dumb.
No tone in a reply so
Use emojis😉
Sorry for the long useless reply with no criticisms👍🏻
Hi Mr. Jeffery, thanks for the views, comment and sub.
Thanks for the video. Just completed this replacement successfully.
You are welcome David. Thank you for the views and comments.
Brian2bears l
The seals should be installed with Loctite for seals, not grease. The seals need to be anchored with this anaerobic sealer. Just Saying. I would also recommend that one seal on the bearing be removed and pack the bearing with a good Synthetic Grease, then put the seal back on. You should not pound on any race with a punch either, but rather a socket the same size as the outer race, to prevent hot spots on the race. The punch will make microscopic upheavals in the race and the bearings will not be smooth running as they should be. I am a Mechanic trainer for 40 years.
Mr. Daniel, thank you for the view and professional commentary. I have tried this repair twice. Once with the double-sealed bearing packed with grease. This unit is designed to run bearings in the gear oil. Deere corporate assisted me on the phone during these repairs. As to the seal installation, the leak occurs where the axle spins inside the seal, not where the seal contacts the housing.Others have commented in a negative way as to my methods also, but not in an articulate and kind way as you have, Again thank you for your kindness and views and commentary. If you are watching the cabin build you will notice the tractor is still in service and dependable.
@@Brian2bears Sir: Thank you for your Reply. I did not know that the bearing ran in oil. The only question then is how the oil gets past the seals on the bearing to get into the bearing?
@@danielhilden7181 Mr. Daniel, the o.e.m. bearing is not double sealed and if I am not mistaken, the seal is a separate part from the bearing. The visual I give in the video is aftermarket. The John Deere part number for the seal mounts in the hub and is substantial in comparison to aftermarket as I found out. As to the how, if you can stand to watch video 4, the gear and bearing are exposed as I install them. The axle is then filled with gear oil.
@@Brian2bears Very Good.
Did you use a sleeve on the seals?
Hello Mr. Eddie, I did not use a sleeve. To clarify, you mean was a sleeve used to protect the seals during installation? I did not. The tractor is still in service at this time. Thank you for watching.
Sir,
We are trying to repair ours. We cannot find the seal part #s. Can you possibly forward those?
Thank you!
Absolutely. CH14691. It is also in the video description. Thank you for viewing and commenting.
Where’s the cheapest place to buy the parts?
I use a small supplier called Volunteer Bearing, however the best seals are John Deere and are only available through Tri-Green. Thanks for the reply/comments.
Can I replace the updated 3005 axle to the 790 ?
I keep breaking my pinion gear
+ aluminum hubs are wearing out😩
@@Ranchready496 I communicated with Corporate Deere's head engineer with that very question and the answer is yes. The strength is not that much greater, but somewhat improved. The issue is cost. It may be best to use a larger or different tractor, putting that expense toward something else.
I have an '03, 790 and it only had one seal. Did your '05 have two from the factory or did you decide to put two in? Thanks
That is correct. One seal from the factory. The OEM is the best available as far as durability is concerned. The aftermarket seals are much narrower and do not last as long. Thank you for your views and comments.