@@mapleean2751 i donno man, my parents brick and mortar house has not had any failure in 25 years, only fixtures break and replaced, and some fixins on the roof, the house is practically immortal
Rising damp is a real thing but extremely rare and shouldn't be though as the first cause. Surveyors aren't allowed to mention it (general house survey) because it's so rare. Heritage house has some good articles on rising damp and old homes (which is a lot of UK houses)
Care to provide an actual explanation? I've heard of the sticks working for over 7 years and counting. Ofc if there's a different root issue do that but if you've got an old house with no DPM this seems pretty viable?
@@mapleean2751 because rising damp basically doesn't exist, surveyors aren't even allowed to mention rising damp because so little evidence of it existing. Its usually always some other problem which needs correcting.
I fixed the damp by ripping off the cement render a damp proof wally had installed. I lowered the ground outside the house to 150mm below the perfectly good 200 years old slate DPC. A few months later the house was dry. Don't waste you money with a wally. Especially one who thinks small blobs of adhesive are the right way to attach plasterboard to a wall.
Nothing wrong with using damp rods and waterproof render when it’s the right situation. Lay off the Peter Ward videos. He doesn’t think there is such a thing as rising damp. I’m a contractor and I see it regularly, and resolve it. Lowering the floor outside is a common resolution to damp issues. That won’t resolve all damp issues, especially if there is a concrete slab on the inside.
@gdfggggg I suppose if it's the right solution, then go ahead - but just how often is it? Not here I'd say! If the rods work, then lime plaster can be reinstated. This guy just doesn't seem to have considered what the cause is and sought to remove that - he's just treaties symptoms and not even doing it well!
@@gdfggggg what contracting do you do. I'm so confused what is the correct practice I'm industry. I always come across work like this but shying away cos I'm not sure was the correct solution is
@@savagefightminds529 I spend a lot of time refurbishing Victorian buildings. 99% of the time they’ve been modernised without considering the collateral damage of their work I.e. installing a concrete floor, where a vented wood floor once was. The ventilation keeps the wall dry by evaporation of moisture before it can creep up the internal walls. A concrete floor won’t allow that evaporation and the damp will rise and will evaporate above the concrete; sometimes it can creep quite high. Reality is, the expense to remove the concrete floor and replace with ventilated wooden floors would not only be incredibly expensive but would give you a draughty house. To get around this particular issue, you’d seek a modern alternative to resolve the problem I.E. a chemical rod system. I’ve used chemical rods and similar successfully. The other option would be to lime the walls but that would mean you’d have to use certain paints which are expensive.
@@savagefightminds529Dry rods work well for rising damp in brick, block and mortar-bedded stone walls. If you use them as shown here, the floor will remain damp. It's best to insert them from outside, 150mm above ground level but below the level of the floor inside. Nor all damp is rising damp, so you also need to look at whether there's penetrating damp above the DPC from something like a leaking downpipe, or earth/path against the wall above the DPC.
@tonybowker5293 he probably did, that's how he knows it's rising damp rather than a bridged dpc. Even if the ground level was too high, reducing the height would not resolve the issue if there is no dpc in the wall, given the brick type, it's likely this had a slate dpc that will have failed by now.
@@AB-uk4pd yeah you got a point there. If you have a brick wall you either leave it like bricks or plaster it. Glueing a whole board on to it seems odd.
@@jan-willembavinck3650not if it only have to be "fixed" until the money hit your bank account. We had some "House experts" wich means "turd polisher" who did this and after that bailing out of the situation. absolutly shady.
200 year old property I worked on. The client said he would get wall injected. He used a damp meter😂. I removed the Gyp plaster. Hey presto wall dry, lime plaster. No issues since
Very true, walls need to breathe, get rid of the gyp plaster , allow the wall to naturally dry and put the lime plaster back on, no more damp. Just prove that those old boys 100 years ago knew what they were doing.
@@m1leswilliamsthe ground. You can’t always build on dry ground. Half of London has a clay consistency. Very wet. What you gonna do? Build with materials that breath to allow moisture to escape. Fighting nature with these damp stop garbage rods is a losing battle
Really amazing that there was no step that was *LET THE WALL DRY* once you get the plaster off and the brick exposed it should be cleaned and then the houses heated and ventilated to dry everything out, especially before you seal all the damp in with a damp proof membrane, you could have a room that looks great with wet bricks crumbling to nothing behind!
That's not actually necessary - the dry rods do that over time. But he should have used a damp proof plaster, 2 coats. Not just banged on some plasterboard ffs!
How to wreck your property with 8 steps. Find the source of the problem and fix that. Bad guttering, leaking drainage, bridging over your engineering bricks or membrane in modern houses. Keep air bricks/vents clean and clear. If you have lime plaster don't use Gypsum, let your property breathe! Never inject this in your walls, look at properties that have had this done years ago and see how the bricks are now crumbling and falling apart near the injection site. If rising damp is a real thing why don't you see the so called damage on Victorian brick canal bridges above the water line soaking wet and falling apart?
damp problem+ plaster board what a great Idea ! that membrane will make it hard for the wall to breathe and dry out instead of protecting it.. generally the problem comes from either from the outside with bad waterproofing or due to condensation inside due to bad aeration
Mistake number one, using a timber damp meter / protimeter on masonry. Well done, you have established their is salts within the wall......not necessarily damp.
This fix has been debunked about 20 years ago. Rising damp doesn’t really exist, it’s more likely: Non-breathable exterior paint or cladding. Ground level too high on the exterior. Blocked air bricks. Improper plaster or plasterboard. Improper wallpaper or paint on the interior. Rarely, moisture entering the joists. Old solid walls need to breathe. If they don’t, you get damp. That’s really it.
Thats why we all should use Hemp brick, Although hempcrete can't totally replace concrete for all applications, there are several benefits to using hemp for building sustainable homes. It can provide a healthier environment for homeowners, not to mention the savings with heating and cooling, and help build a more sustainable world. 🎉
@@FIN86fi I don’t know much about hemp blocks & I’ll work with whatever materials are in the spec, but the issues known to cause ‘rising damp’ will affect any property with a solid wall due to the thermal characteristics interacting with moisture in the air. If used in a cavity construction, you’ll get different issues pop up, but issues nonetheless if the paint, cladding, insulation or ground level (this is by far the most common issue by the way) not meeting the regs.
That won't work dry rods and other damp proofing methods are a scam. You property needs to breath it was designed this way. installing materials that stop moisture are only trapping moisture into the walls.
1st step don't listen to people who will make the problem worse 2nd step. dont use modern materials/paint in a lime mortar house. 3rd step. chase out the cement used on external walls when repointed. (main cause of damp in houses pre cement) and use lime mortar house will breath properly.
I use lime mortar for a living. You're 100% correct. There's so many gimmicks out there that are a waste of time and money. Old buildings are supposed to breathe. Introducing modern materials is never really the answer. If you trap the damp, you can drastically shorten the life of the old bricks or stone that can no longer breathe. Impermeable barriers are not the answer ethier. Clay paint is a good alternative to emulsion. Cement is the cause of the majority of damp issues and deterioration in old bricks and stone.
@@kezzerm7 how old is the house ? The damp issues can be a problem for a number of reasons. In pre cement houses it usually stems from bad mortar externally or its been repointed with cement. If external brickwork is fine it will be the modern materials i.e plaster paint etc stopping the house breathing.
Most of the damp in old houses is modern cement that locks in moisture, modern cement can act like a wike and draw water out of the ground to form salts like we see in this vid, ok a cathedral in new York that has been renovated for the past hundred years has come through the period of lime mortars, through cement and now going back to lime as lime mortars allow wall to breath, thus drying out without the need for damp proofing. Some heritage grand apiculate cutting all cement mortar of up to 1.2 meters and using lime based render. It doesn't have to be pure lime, the research in the US states a mix of 6 sand, 1 cement, 1 lime should be ok for base coats and 5:1:1 same ingredients for top coat, plasterboard and gypsum is a definite no,no as they wike damp. So they say, hang a piece of toilet paper over a bowl of water and see the water rise.
It's wick.. & yes you're right.. the other thing this idiot is doing.. NEVER drill the bricks.. the lime motar acts as moisture channels.. only drill at the mortar junctions to draw moisture out of the bricks to lessen brick decay over time & not create weakened crack points in bricks
Wrong, do not do this. Use breathable lime plaster and paints and make sure you have enough ventilation in the house. The damp is caused by condensation from inside humidity
Step one ! Always stop the moisture from the outside walls ! Not the inside walls , always fix from outside first than fix the already damaged inside part or it will never stop
That moisture meter is for testing wood moisture in lumber yards. The proper tool uses a sample to be taken from in the wall useing a drill the sample is then placed in a long tube thing with a metre gauge at the bottom. 👍✌☝️❤👊
Hi guys. Been a builder for 15 years , I've used every method available to stop damp such as painting it with blackjack, clearing out cavities and installing air bricks. But the last year I have fitted several Positive air input fans and it's an absolute game changer. Within 24hrs the condensation on windows is completely gone and within a week then walls dried out.
People saying this is wrong... the guy is flipping houses so for him it js correct... By the time it causes issues it's been sold onto the unsuspecting customer and now their problem 🤒🤒
That’s a solid wall (not cavity) so most likely >100 year old and had originally lime mortar. As others have said, ground levels, ventilation and lime plaster
I know construction methods are a lot different in the uk then the us but gluing drywall or panneling directly to masonry is how a lot of people liked to finish there basements over here back in the 70s and 80s and it almost always would have to be ripped out 10-20 years later as it would trap moisture and end up full of mold.
Yes but these are brick houses not wood or concrete basements - totally different building method. There's no wood or metal studs to screw to here. Also, the dampness issue is the whole subject of the video if you watch it
@@justauser I know that there's no stud framing showed in the video and this whole building is brick work. I was saying that putting drywall directly over masonry be it poured concrete, brick or block your probably gonna get dampness and mold as masonry is a porous material and moisture will seep through it either from rain and the humidity in the air if above grade or from ground water in the soil when below grade. These kinds of issues usely need to be fixed from the outside to be fixed probably by either repointing or repairing damaged brick and block work and or by addressing issues with grade and drainage so that water will drain away from the building before it can seep up the brick work and into the building.
@@JTech625the guy in this video is using popular (but awful) ‘method’ that the chemical companies (who likely paid for this ad) have been actively and aggressively promoting for years. Including “training” low or non-educated (in construction) people on quick courses and giving them “qualifications” (fake certificates) and backing them with low quality “guarantees”. You were right, It is a mold trap, it’s also not a good solution to the problem, and is basically a “landlord special” cover up the underlying problem and ignore it and hopefully it’s good enough (and cheap enough) for a few years to be a “cost effective solution”. The underlying issue with damp needs to be addressed and this person claiming to be a property ‘expert’ (complete with a timber “damp meter for walls”) has not addressed the underlying problem which likely could be fixed just as simply as what they’ve done here in this video!
I have a dehumidifier that collects 3 ltr water every 2 / 3 days and honestly I haven’t had a single damp wall or patch in this property I have lived in for 4 years
Quite right. As quoted on an article I read, you only have too look at canal bridges built with brick and lime mortar, the water wicks up the wall by may just a couple of centimetres above the water line even though the wall is actually sitting in water. I love lime work.
Genuine question: where did you get the idea that rising damp doesn't exist? I have seen a few people on here saying this and I'm interested in where they got the information.
@@mikekelly5869 A lot of research on lime works. For example, my house is early 17th Century, rubble walls, sits in dirt with no DPM of any kind (obviously) and I don't get damp creeping up my walls. Not only that, it is also thatched so all the rain water just runs off the roof directly around the perimeter of the house. As long as the house is maintained correctly, gravel kept lower then the inside floor level, lime pointing in good order (I do this for a living in summer months), the inside walls have lime plaster and breathable paint, chalk paint for example, the walls will never have rising damp. It could be argued rising damp exists but only as a fault due to incorrect materials and maintenance if the outside walls have cement pointing, or worse, cement render, and the inside walls have even just modern vinyl emulsion, moisture in the walls cannot escape and that's when you get a build up of damp and efflorescence. Rising damp has become thing because thousands of companies over the years will have you believe you have damp problems that can only be fixed with their products, when in reality all that is need is just proper maintenance. Pretty much 100% of the time, on any property that has damp in the walls (I don't mean just black mould on the inside, this is simply an airflow problem in newer properties and wrong wall coatings on older properties) there is always a cause if you look properly it will be found. Properties have been built for several 1000 years using lime with no damp problem, it simply a case of them having any modern technique appllied that messes up the basic principle of them being able to breathe.
Good idea really ! I'm Dutch , living in the Lowlands of The Netherlands..So..in the old traditional houses a lot of moist in the walls..An old ' grandfathers tip. ' to avoid moist is take the cement out of the lowest row of bricks..Place strips of glass in the opening and fill the opening up with cement again..Works perfect for our 1903 build house.
@@akashshah1907 Make sure the grade outside slopes away from the house. Make sure downspouts and other water flows are channeled well away from the house.
@@StarDustMoonRocket how do I send you some pictures of my house? I have start bringing ground level down. Brickwork is totally destroyed cause of cement tanking
What if the walls have been filled with insulation which is known to cause damp then it costs thousands to get someone to come and suck it all out with a machine
Everyone commenting about it being caused by external issues do have a point but if you look a lot of the walls are internal walls so the ONLY moisture source is coming from below and RISING up and this remedial work is adequate other alternative is to drill down knock out a couple courses and install a physical damp proof membrane but this is prohibitively expense and time consuming as can only be done meter at a time
I drilled lots of small holes along the bottom of the wall and injected a permiating plasticising agent, which spread through the brickwork, once the wall was thoroughly dried out, I just used some polyfilla over the small holes, and a touch over paint over the area, its been fine for the last 5 years.
Never seen anyone just hi tack some plasterboard onto a brick wall. I always make a frame out of wood, isolate and leave some space to ventilate, dampfoil on top of that, and then plasterboard on that.
I'm so glad there's a lot of people debunking this rubbish. Surveyors aren't even allowed to mention rising damp anymore due to the fact it is so rare.
Rising Damp in a wall I Drilled holes every 10 cm and put Sodium metasilicate in it. My cellar wall was moist, so I dug it clear on the outside and let it dry, then put bitumen on it.
That plaster is saving the brick from being damaged. If you seal the brick they will become soft and the whole structure will be damaged. There is a reason they replace plaster on brick building, it’s to save the brick underneath.
If you see some testing for damp in a wall with that type of moisture meter send them packing, they are designed for timber hence (WME wood moisture equivalent) not masonry. Masonry contains salts and other things that provide good conductivity giving false positives for damp. You’re supposed to drill the brick and test the dust samples in a (carbide kit pressure chamber), as moisture reacts with the chemicals inside the pressure increases See: (Peter Ward, The damp industry con).
my friend's room had the worst damp I have ever seen, up to 5ft high. He had to paint his walls every six months. We used plywood to cover walls all over the room, the room was really big so 3 inches of plywood and its wooden frame did not made much difference. He now has clean walls, damp free for more than six years now.
Done kind of the same. Knocked it down the same as this. But I used liquid instead of rods, And then salt neutraliser then pva mix on the brick. And instead of plaster board I made render with plastisizer then plaster. It has been fine for the last 5 year. Mine was alot worse than this though .
In the us they now build houses completely wrapped in osb including roof of course they add another layer but these houses will not make it 50 years before needing new roofs.
A lot of the damp problems in the UK are caused by unscrupulous cavity wall insulation companies who use incorrect fills or inject walls that need to have convection to dry out. Bu packing them the dampness in the wall has nowhere to go and just builds and builds
All houses i had in the UK my last house was stone over 300 years old in Rutland (Ketton) an ex pub in the end we had to get the wall tanked by Rentokill, the floor had Rutland tiles on earth here we tarmacked the floor expensive but fixed
My grandfather used to be a builder and I remember our house as a kid had rising damp but back then the plaster was stripped off like you have to 1meter the holes where drilled and then injected with a machine I'm sure it was some sort of silicone liquid it was forced in under pressure with a pump
Personally my first step would be to find out what the actual issue is and address that rather than covering it up.
No vapor barrier flrom the concrete base"footing" cant break down all the walls now
Yeh, the actual issue is rising damp it speaks for itself, this is how you fix it
No D.P.M
@@user-yo7oy9ri9y he means what causes the rising damp. Such as where is the water coming from
@@user-kj5sl2gx7k'being in the UK'. Everything is wet, most of the time
....
"The UK's biggest problem is rising damp."
The House of Commons has entered the chat.
Islam is our biggest problem.
Now Sunak knows how to win the election😂
@@TG-ts3xnwhy?
You are an ignorant
😂😂😂😂 I love this commend well said 😂😂😂😂 so so true 👏
@@TG-ts3xn you r a cwrd thats it.
Boys this is what house flippers do, you do not do this to your own property.
Standard? Plasterboard? Wouldn't a moisture resitant type be better than the standard stuff which is like cardboard when it gets wet?
Why not? I've heard of sticks working 8 years after installation and counting?
@@mapleean2751 i donno man, my parents brick and mortar house has not had any failure in 25 years, only fixtures break and replaced, and some fixins on the roof, the house is practically immortal
This whole method is abismal.
Oh my day's 😂, This is one of the biggest scams in UK today. Do NOT do this. 😮
Rising damp is a real thing but extremely rare and shouldn't be though as the first cause. Surveyors aren't allowed to mention it (general house survey) because it's so rare. Heritage house has some good articles on rising damp and old homes (which is a lot of UK houses)
Care to provide an actual explanation? I've heard of the sticks working for over 7 years and counting. Ofc if there's a different root issue do that but if you've got an old house with no DPM this seems pretty viable?
@@mapleean2751 because rising damp basically doesn't exist, surveyors aren't even allowed to mention rising damp because so little evidence of it existing. Its usually always some other problem which needs correcting.
I fixed the damp by ripping off the cement render a damp proof wally had installed.
I lowered the ground outside the house to 150mm below the perfectly good 200 years old slate DPC.
A few months later the house was dry.
Don't waste you money with a wally.
Especially one who thinks small blobs of adhesive are the right way to attach plasterboard to a wall.
Nothing wrong with using damp rods and waterproof render when it’s the right situation. Lay off the Peter Ward videos. He doesn’t think there is such a thing as rising damp. I’m a contractor and I see it regularly, and resolve it.
Lowering the floor outside is a common resolution to damp issues. That won’t resolve all damp issues, especially if there is a concrete slab on the inside.
@gdfggggg
I suppose if it's the right solution, then go ahead - but just how often is it?
Not here I'd say!
If the rods work, then lime plaster can be reinstated.
This guy just doesn't seem to have considered what the cause is and sought to remove that - he's just treaties symptoms and not even doing it well!
@@gdfggggg what contracting do you do. I'm so confused what is the correct practice I'm industry. I always come across work like this but shying away cos I'm not sure was the correct solution is
@@savagefightminds529 I spend a lot of time refurbishing Victorian buildings. 99% of the time they’ve been modernised without considering the collateral damage of their work I.e. installing a concrete floor, where a vented wood floor once was. The ventilation keeps the wall dry by evaporation of moisture before it can creep up the internal walls. A concrete floor won’t allow that evaporation and the damp will rise and will evaporate above the concrete; sometimes it can creep quite high. Reality is, the expense to remove the concrete floor and replace with ventilated wooden floors would not only be incredibly expensive but would give you a draughty house. To get around this particular issue, you’d seek a modern alternative to resolve the problem I.E. a chemical rod system. I’ve used chemical rods and similar successfully. The other option would be to lime the walls but that would mean you’d have to use certain paints which are expensive.
@@savagefightminds529Dry rods work well for rising damp in brick, block and mortar-bedded stone walls. If you use them as shown here, the floor will remain damp. It's best to insert them from outside, 150mm above ground level but below the level of the floor inside.
Nor all damp is rising damp, so you also need to look at whether there's penetrating damp above the DPC from something like a leaking downpipe, or earth/path against the wall above the DPC.
There are a lot of causes of damp, and this would not work for many of them.
Yeah said rising damp, that's one type of damp
Why dont you go outside and check the ground height ?
Would need to stop the water getting in
About to say… injecting is mostly unsuccessful, left alone such silly dry sticks. Undercutting in sections is the only solution guaranteed to work.
@tonybowker5293 he probably did, that's how he knows it's rising damp rather than a bridged dpc.
Even if the ground level was too high, reducing the height would not resolve the issue if there is no dpc in the wall, given the brick type, it's likely this had a slate dpc that will have failed by now.
Never put plasterboard anywhere near damp problems
Once it's fixed it's okay
@Shoo897because plastered board is usually some kind of chalk like material which can absorb a lot of water.
Where in the World would you put plasterboard directly to the wall??? In the Uk?
Some wooden frame construction not necessary?
@@AB-uk4pd yeah you got a point there. If you have a brick wall you either leave it like bricks or plaster it. Glueing a whole board on to it seems odd.
@@jan-willembavinck3650not if it only have to be "fixed" until the money hit your bank account.
We had some "House experts" wich means "turd polisher" who did this and after that bailing out of the situation.
absolutly shady.
Lime, just lime fixes all, lime pointing, lime render lime plaster, it’s only been working for 2000+ years 🤷🏻♂️
Lime works but then he’d have to use special paint and won’t be able to paper. When he sales the house will be a liability for some.
@@gdfgggggAnd when his walls collapse, he won't be able to sell it at all.
Can you give some more information how to make lime pointing and lime render ? Where to buy material ? I have opened up my home outside
200 year old property I worked on. The client said he would get wall injected. He used a damp meter😂. I removed the Gyp plaster. Hey presto wall dry, lime plaster. No issues since
Cool ad
Nice
Very true, walls need to breathe, get rid of the gyp plaster , allow the wall to naturally dry and put the lime plaster back on, no more damp. Just prove that those old boys 100 years ago knew what they were doing.
So, where did the water come from?
@@m1leswilliamsthe ground. You can’t always build on dry ground. Half of London has a clay consistency. Very wet. What you gonna do? Build with materials that breath to allow moisture to escape. Fighting nature with these damp stop garbage rods is a losing battle
Really amazing that there was no step that was *LET THE WALL DRY* once you get the plaster off and the brick exposed it should be cleaned and then the houses heated and ventilated to dry everything out, especially before you seal all the damp in with a damp proof membrane, you could have a room that looks great with wet bricks crumbling to nothing behind!
Let the wall dry was after plugging it
That's not actually necessary - the dry rods do that over time. But he should have used a damp proof plaster, 2 coats. Not just banged on some plasterboard ffs!
How to wreck your property with 8 steps. Find the source of the problem and fix that. Bad guttering, leaking drainage, bridging over your engineering bricks or membrane in modern houses. Keep air bricks/vents clean and clear.
If you have lime plaster don't use Gypsum, let your property breathe!
Never inject this in your walls, look at properties that have had this done years ago and see how the bricks are now crumbling and falling apart near the injection site.
If rising damp is a real thing why don't you see the so called damage on Victorian brick canal bridges above the water line soaking wet and falling apart?
damp problem+ plaster board what a great Idea ! that membrane will make it hard for the wall to breathe and dry out instead of protecting it.. generally the problem comes from either from the outside with bad waterproofing or due to condensation inside due to bad aeration
Mistake number one, using a timber damp meter / protimeter on masonry. Well done, you have established their is salts within the wall......not necessarily damp.
They have a masonry and timber option on some of them. Mine does. Mistake number one of yours.
@@gdfgggggmine too
This fix has been debunked about 20 years ago. Rising damp doesn’t really exist, it’s more likely:
Non-breathable exterior paint or cladding.
Ground level too high on the exterior.
Blocked air bricks.
Improper plaster or plasterboard.
Improper wallpaper or paint on the interior.
Rarely, moisture entering the joists.
Old solid walls need to breathe. If they don’t, you get damp. That’s really it.
I don’t think you’ve ever remediated a basement
@@jordanbrownj show me the evidence of dpc’s failing NOT due to bridging due to issues such as the ones I have listed and I’ll eat my words.
@@tvviewer4500 does this look like a basement to you? And did you drill dry rods into your basement wall? (God help you if you did)
Thats why we all should use Hemp brick, Although hempcrete can't totally replace concrete for all applications, there are several benefits to using hemp for building sustainable homes. It can provide a healthier environment for homeowners, not to mention the savings with heating and cooling, and help build a more sustainable world. 🎉
@@FIN86fi I don’t know much about hemp blocks & I’ll work with whatever materials are in the spec, but the issues known to cause ‘rising damp’ will affect any property with a solid wall due to the thermal characteristics interacting with moisture in the air.
If used in a cavity construction, you’ll get different issues pop up, but issues nonetheless if the paint, cladding, insulation or ground level (this is by far the most common issue by the way) not meeting the regs.
That won't work dry rods and other damp proofing methods are a scam. You property needs to breath it was designed this way. installing materials that stop moisture are only trapping moisture into the walls.
1st step don't listen to people who will make the problem worse
2nd step. dont use modern materials/paint in a lime mortar house.
3rd step. chase out the cement used on external walls when repointed. (main cause of damp in houses pre cement) and use lime mortar house will breath properly.
I use lime mortar for a living. You're 100% correct. There's so many gimmicks out there that are a waste of time and money. Old buildings are supposed to breathe. Introducing modern materials is never really the answer. If you trap the damp, you can drastically shorten the life of the old bricks or stone that can no longer breathe. Impermeable barriers are not the answer ethier. Clay paint is a good alternative to emulsion. Cement is the cause of the majority of damp issues and deterioration in old bricks and stone.
I have damp I have paid for damp course to be injected and it still come back would be interesting to understand more from you please
@@kezzerm7 how old is the house ? The damp issues can be a problem for a number of reasons. In pre cement houses it usually stems from bad mortar externally or its been repointed with cement. If external brickwork is fine it will be the modern materials i.e plaster paint etc stopping the house breathing.
Wall was dry as a bone - this is just salts in the plaster blowing throigh
I’m not sure it’s the UKs biggest problem mate 😂
Immigration is
Islamic takeover
You had your Brexit didn't ye?
And also, Isn't it everywhere?
The end of western civilisation
😂
Most of the damp in old houses is modern cement that locks in moisture, modern cement can act like a wike and draw water out of the ground to form salts like we see in this vid, ok a cathedral in new York that has been renovated for the past hundred years has come through the period of lime mortars, through cement and now going back to lime as lime mortars allow wall to breath, thus drying out without the need for damp proofing. Some heritage grand apiculate cutting all cement mortar of up to 1.2 meters and using lime based render. It doesn't have to be pure lime, the research in the US states a mix of 6 sand, 1 cement, 1 lime should be ok for base coats and 5:1:1 same ingredients for top coat, plasterboard and gypsum is a definite no,no as they wike damp. So they say, hang a piece of toilet paper over a bowl of water and see the water rise.
It's wick.. & yes you're right.. the other thing this idiot is doing.. NEVER drill the bricks.. the lime motar acts as moisture channels.. only drill at the mortar junctions to draw moisture out of the bricks to lessen brick decay over time & not create weakened crack points in bricks
and the new windows causing problems too. They are too good isolated and don´t let moistoure out.
Step 1 should be to find the cause
Wrong, do not do this. Use breathable lime plaster and paints and make sure you have enough ventilation in the house. The damp is caused by condensation from inside humidity
It's a capillary action
@@benwalker3210it literally isn't, there's been a number of experiments that prove that to be utter bollox
@@lucagordon5770 OK pal
@@lucagordon5770capillary action and rising damp are a scientific fact. Stop watching dumbass Peter ward videos.
Step one ! Always stop the moisture from the outside walls ! Not the inside walls , always fix from outside first than fix the already damaged inside part or it will never stop
People in the US wondering if you can punch a hole in that wall
Great, but the bottoms of the wall still damp, and the sealer doesn't allow the wall to breathe and get rid of moisture.
That moisture meter is for testing wood moisture in lumber yards.
The proper tool uses a sample to be taken from in the wall useing a drill the sample is then placed in a long tube thing with a metre gauge at the bottom.
👍✌☝️❤👊
I think the UKs biggest problem is the Tories not rising damp.
Rising damp is also a good name for the tories.
If you think the tories were bad, wait till you’ve had 5 yrs of the socialist utopian fantasists
Soon, the biggest problem will be Labour.
Both parties, red or blue don't have a clue
I loved that program Rising Damp with Leonard Rossiter
A brilliant little informational video. Loads of people will find this a great help.✌️
Brilliant programme rising damp always on a Sunday 😂😂😂😂
Hi guys. Been a builder for 15 years , I've used every method available to stop damp such as painting it with blackjack, clearing out cavities and installing air bricks. But the last year I have fitted several Positive air input fans and it's an absolute game changer. Within 24hrs the condensation on windows is completely gone and within a week then walls dried out.
And then became piss wet again in winter
@@nathd1748 no.
@@nathd1748 no
Use MHRV units for even better results. Won't cure rising damp though.
People saying this is wrong... the guy is flipping houses so for him it js correct...
By the time it causes issues it's been sold onto the unsuspecting customer and now their problem 🤒🤒
Excellent excellent thanks.
Amazing 👌👌👌👌👌
That’s a solid wall (not cavity) so most likely >100 year old and had originally lime mortar. As others have said, ground levels, ventilation and lime plaster
Yep he’s totally wrong, the cause may have something to do with the house being hundreds of years old 😂
I know construction methods are a lot different in the uk then the us but gluing drywall or panneling directly to masonry is how a lot of people liked to finish there basements over here back in the 70s and 80s and it almost always would have to be ripped out 10-20 years later as it would trap moisture and end up full of mold.
Yes but these are brick houses not wood or concrete basements - totally different building method. There's no wood or metal studs to screw to here. Also, the dampness issue is the whole subject of the video if you watch it
@@justauser I know that there's no stud framing showed in the video and this whole building is brick work. I was saying that putting drywall directly over masonry be it poured concrete, brick or block your probably gonna get dampness and mold as masonry is a porous material and moisture will seep through it either from rain and the humidity in the air if above grade or from ground water in the soil when below grade. These kinds of issues usely need to be fixed from the outside to be fixed probably by either repointing or repairing damaged brick and block work and or by addressing issues with grade and drainage so that water will drain away from the building before it can seep up the brick work and into the building.
@@JTech625the guy in this video is using popular (but awful) ‘method’ that the chemical companies (who likely paid for this ad) have been actively and aggressively promoting for years. Including “training” low or non-educated (in construction) people on quick courses and giving them “qualifications” (fake certificates) and backing them with low quality “guarantees”.
You were right, It is a mold trap, it’s also not a good solution to the problem, and is basically a “landlord special” cover up the underlying problem and ignore it and hopefully it’s good enough (and cheap enough) for a few years to be a “cost effective solution”.
The underlying issue with damp needs to be addressed and this person claiming to be a property ‘expert’ (complete with a timber “damp meter for walls”) has not addressed the underlying problem which likely could be fixed just as simply as what they’ve done here in this video!
That's awesome mate well done
I have a dehumidifier that collects 3 ltr water every 2 / 3 days and honestly I haven’t had a single damp wall or patch in this property I have lived in for 4 years
If your dehumidifier is collecting that volume of water every couple of days then you have a big problem.
Step one) do some research and find out that rising damp basically doesn’t exist…
Step two) don’t pay some tit to fuck up your house.
Quite right. As quoted on an article I read, you only have too look at canal bridges built with brick and lime mortar, the water wicks up the wall by may just a couple of centimetres above the water line even though the wall is actually sitting in water. I love lime work.
Rising damp 100% does exist, I see it all the time. It happens when the moisture can’t evaporate, so it creeps up the wall will capillary action.
Genuine question: where did you get the idea that rising damp doesn't exist? I have seen a few people on here saying this and I'm interested in where they got the information.
@@mikekelly5869 A lot of research on lime works. For example, my house is early 17th Century, rubble walls, sits in dirt with no DPM of any kind (obviously) and I don't get damp creeping up my walls. Not only that, it is also thatched so all the rain water just runs off the roof directly around the perimeter of the house. As long as the house is maintained correctly, gravel kept lower then the inside floor level, lime pointing in good order (I do this for a living in summer months), the inside walls have lime plaster and breathable paint, chalk paint for example, the walls will never have rising damp. It could be argued rising damp exists but only as a fault due to incorrect materials and maintenance if the outside walls have cement pointing, or worse, cement render, and the inside walls have even just modern vinyl emulsion, moisture in the walls cannot escape and that's when you get a build up of damp and efflorescence. Rising damp has become thing because thousands of companies over the years will have you believe you have damp problems that can only be fixed with their products, when in reality all that is need is just proper maintenance. Pretty much 100% of the time, on any property that has damp in the walls (I don't mean just black mould on the inside, this is simply an airflow problem in newer properties and wrong wall coatings on older properties) there is always a cause if you look properly it will be found. Properties have been built for several 1000 years using lime with no damp problem, it simply a case of them having any modern technique appllied that messes up the basic principle of them being able to breathe.
@@mikekelly5869 95% sure it will be Peter Ward.
Notice the wall has a chimney that probably hasn’t had a fire in it for years. Water famously flows down hill Sherlock 😅
thank's!!! I have done all the step except replastering because I was not confident about the bottom of the wall ... I needed this black stuff
Good idea really ! I'm Dutch , living in the Lowlands of The Netherlands..So..in the old traditional houses a lot of moist in the walls..An old ' grandfathers tip. ' to avoid moist is take the cement out of the lowest row of bricks..Place strips of glass in the opening and fill the opening up with cement again..Works perfect for our 1903 build house.
Good job James😊
Lol, at first i heard ""rising dumbs"" 😅😂
Love the kicks lad!👍❤️🇦🇺
Check outside for a raised ground level against wall or broken down pipe / guttering.
Gluing plasterboard directly to bricks cracked me up. 😂😂😂
All very good but when you tell a landlord how much it’s going to cost they say forget it!
I know a man who got rid of his radiator central heating and uses wood fires. Damp is significantly reduced..
Biggest problem is plasterboards it blocks the bricks from ventilation
😮😮 Wow you used the weep holes concept. Nice
My dear brother 💯 ❤️
had this exact problem. called a dam proofer who quoted £4k opened a window instead for a year and problem solved
I'm pretty sure the UK has bigger problems than rising damp.
Maybe start at the palace of Westminster and see if you can fix that first.
Bravo !!! Great work !!!! 👏
And here I am. I can't even find fro. where the water is leaking.😢
Keep searching!
#TRULY HELPFUL PROCEDURE 👏👏👏
#WE USE ACID TO DAMPWN YHE SALT PATCHES
IT HELPS TO NUTRALISE
AND THEN WE LEAVE IT TO DRY
THEN SCRAPE ALL DAMP PLASTER
thanks brother for the vid.. our home in malaysia, an old design apartment also have this kind of problem..
The only reason this appears to work for a while is the sealant and isolation provided by plasterboard. The damp products are expensive snake oil
Put Big Tiles Covering the Wall after repairing dripping problem.
nice one
Step minus one. Fix your grade and drainage plan outside the wall.
I have digged out my back garden .
Need advise . How to fix grade and check drainage plan
@@akashshah1907 Make sure the grade outside slopes away from the house. Make sure downspouts and other water flows are channeled well away from the house.
@@StarDustMoonRocket how do I send you some pictures of my house? I have start bringing ground level down. Brickwork is totally destroyed cause of cement tanking
What if the walls have been filled with insulation which is known to cause damp then it costs thousands to get someone to come and suck it all out with a machine
Everyone commenting about it being caused by external issues do have a point but if you look a lot of the walls are internal walls so the ONLY moisture source is coming from below and RISING up and this remedial work is adequate other alternative is to drill down knock out a couple courses and install a physical damp proof membrane but this is prohibitively expense and time consuming as can only be done meter at a time
Have my like for using the metric system! Also, well done and good info!
I drilled lots of small holes along the bottom of the wall and injected a permiating plasticising agent, which spread through the brickwork, once the wall was thoroughly dried out, I just used some polyfilla over the small holes, and a touch over paint over the area, its been fine for the last 5 years.
Well done
Never seen anyone just hi tack some plasterboard onto a brick wall. I always make a frame out of wood, isolate and leave some space to ventilate, dampfoil on top of that, and then plasterboard on that.
Thanks such a good night
I'm so glad there's a lot of people debunking this rubbish. Surveyors aren't even allowed to mention rising damp anymore due to the fact it is so rare.
I had this issue. But I’m lazy and just sold up and moved somewhere else
Rising Damp in a wall
I Drilled holes every 10 cm and put Sodium metasilicate in it.
My cellar wall was moist, so I dug it clear on the outside and let it dry, then put bitumen on it.
good job...
Great video
Nice 🙂
That plaster is saving the brick from being damaged. If you seal the brick they will become soft and the whole structure will be damaged.
There is a reason they replace plaster on brick building, it’s to save the brick underneath.
I don't like damp things.
For the moist part 😊
If you see some testing for damp in a wall with that type of moisture meter send them packing, they are designed for timber hence (WME wood moisture equivalent) not masonry. Masonry contains salts and other things that provide good conductivity giving false positives for damp. You’re supposed to drill the brick and test the dust samples in a (carbide kit pressure chamber), as moisture reacts with the chemicals inside the pressure increases
See: (Peter Ward, The damp industry con).
my friend's room had the worst damp I have ever seen, up to 5ft high. He had to paint his walls every six months. We used plywood to cover walls all over the room, the room was really big so 3 inches of plywood and its wooden frame did not made much difference. He now has clean walls, damp free for more than six years now.
Yes UK definitely has a high number of properties with mould and damp specially Council properties
Brilliant
Thank you .!
In India it is also a big problem
Not sure the Landlord would take it too well if he came round and saw me attempting this.
Step one leave the damp in the basement where the designers of the victorian property intended...
Im going to send this to Westminster Council London UK!
I cured it, the same way as you did. 👍👍
Done kind of the same. Knocked it down the same as this. But I used liquid instead of rods,
And then salt neutraliser then pva mix on the brick.
And instead of plaster board I made render with plastisizer then plaster.
It has been fine for the last 5 year.
Mine was alot worse than this though .
In the us they now build houses completely wrapped in osb including roof of course they add another layer but these houses will not make it 50 years before needing new roofs.
Rising damp and mould is global. Landlords in Australia often times don't deal with mould problems in their properties.
In Pakistan we use marble stones & Tiles to prevent this also we use plastic in dpc
James..... You are so handsome....well done to your parents ❤
UK definately got different problems from our wood house. Very interesting
Netflix is part of the decoration these days, it raises the appartement sales value.
Saving this video for 40 years time when i can afford my own home
A lot of the damp problems in the UK are caused by unscrupulous cavity wall insulation companies who use incorrect fills or inject walls that need to have convection to dry out. Bu packing them the dampness in the wall has nowhere to go and just builds and builds
All houses i had in the UK my last house was stone over 300 years old in Rutland (Ketton) an ex pub in the end we had to get the wall tanked by Rentokill, the floor had Rutland tiles on earth here we tarmacked the floor expensive but fixed
You forgot the Membrane. Plus it's more likely to be Capillary Damp. Rising Damp is quite rare.
Rising damp is created form capillary action, Einstein.
I'd say the UK's biggest problem is the constant raising bills...
We're at about 50/60 %
Yea that sucks. Here we don’t really have that issue however bad tenants is a whole different thing😅
My grandfather used to be a builder and I remember our house as a kid had rising damp but back then the plaster was stripped off like you have to 1meter the holes where drilled and then injected with a machine I'm sure it was some sort of silicone liquid it was forced in under pressure with a pump
Take off all the artificial crap people have used to try and get rid of damp. Should sort you out pretty quickly.