REPLACING Motor Mounts on a Chevy Trailblazer Driver Side Only - 2002 similar to a GMC ENVOY
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- Опубліковано 22 лют 2017
- I finally did it! This is a detailed video on motor mount replacement! Watch to learn all the easy tricks for a quick repair on the motor mounts for a Chevy trailblazer. Avoid hassel and save yourself time. I just do the driver side because the passenger side is far easier to install. The audio cuts in and out due to the wind, but I think you'll find this video combined with my first to be very helpful. If you have any questions please ask and as always be extra safe on this job! If you enjoyed my video on fixing chevy trailblazer motor mounts subscribe! Happy fixing!
AC Delco 15062381 Motor Mount --- amzn.to/31tkfv7
It is the most expensive but you'll be using a highly reputable brand! I used Westar before and it had to be replaced later.
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(Camera) Cannon Vixia HF R700 --- amzn.to/2FSoBTn
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Thanks for the video it helped me out a lot. Yes I'd definitely recommend removing the fan from the clutch it'll make things much easier. I drilled a large hole in the PCM bracket big enough to fit an extension socket through. Made getting the nut off the driver side motor mount easy. If you're having trouble squeezing the new motor mounts in place just use a long pry bar to get it in. My 02 Trailblazer has never run so smoothly!
You're welcome Josh! Drilling that hole is a great idea! did you have any complications in the drilling process? Working around the PCM bracket is what I found made this job most difficult. Thank you for the feedback and the helpful tips on how to make this job easier. I'm going to put your comment at the top of the comments.
The only trouble I had was finding a drill bit big enough to make the hole wide enough for the extension socket to slide through. So I just used the biggest one I had then finished it off with a rounded file to make it large enough. Worked like a charm!
I also drilled a hole in the bracket. Worked great.
On the old mounts, using an oxy acetylene torch, cut off the top stud with a cutting torch on both sides. Ya won't have to raise the engine as much as you did. Easy removal.... On the new mounts, put the nut on the top stud, and then using a sawzall, or a whizzer, cut the top stud up to the third thread...then remove the nut which will clean up the threads. Shorten the bottom one as well, up to the fourth thread, with the nut on. This does not mess with the integrity of the new mounts whatsoever. Then install the mounts.
5:12 "You can start jacking it, slowly" Stupid I know. But I just woke up my wife laughing! I'm thinking, dude.. That's your sister!
A tip for anyone attempting this repair, is to remove the fan from the clutch, it's only 4 bolts holding it in. No need to risk damaging it. That bracket that sits under the PCM can be removed with a 10mm ratcheting wrench, that way you will have clearance to torque the top motor mount bolt properly, just be very cautious when putting the bolt back on the bracket, try not to drop it, it will disappear. Ask me how I know. Don't forget to apply some blue loctite to the mount bolts upon installation.
Thank you for the helpful tips! Guys, I recommend following Levons advice and removing the fan especially if it's only four bolts. I tried going after that bottom 10mm bolt for the bracket but found it frustrating and gave up the effort. Haha fear of losing the bolt was part of the reason why I stopped. Sorry you had to go through that. Thanks again for the helpful tips for the job!
Thanks for doing the video. I don't know how you did it without removing the fan clutch and fan assembly from the water pump. The shop manual says to remove it from the WP and just let it set inside the fan shroud. It just takes a big wrench to break the giant nut loose, think it was 1-1/4" or 1-1/8" I had just replaced the fan clutch so I was able to use a large crescent wrench and tap it with a hammer to break it loose. The other thing the manual tells you to remove is the MAP sensor on the top of the intake manifold that thing that almost was crushed by the fire wall when you jacked up the engine. Anyone watching this will notice when you lowered the engine about two inches of stud sticks up out of the upper bracket, all that extra stud makes it hard to get the new mount in so I took a cut off wheel on a die grinder and cut the unthreaded part and about two or three threads of the upper stud and about three threads off the lower stud. It went right in without a fight after that and there was plenty of stud left to secure it. I think that was the trick to success since you really can't jack the engine up enough because the intake man. hits under the cowl/firewall. You tapped on it in the video and said you could remove this thing if you want more room but I've taken one of those manifolds off and they aren't easy, a crap load of bolts and difficult to get to. As for the bracket under the PCM that blocks access to the top nut on the driver's side mount it has one bolt on the bottom into the engine block that can be reached with a very long 1/4" drive extension and swivel 13mm socket through the wheel well just over the frame. You can't really reach it from underneath. Then you have to pop all the wiring harness attachments and fuel lines loose from the bracket and turn it sideways to get to the top nut on the mount. I didn't want to risk cutting into the wiring harness with a hole saw. Putting it back in is a little more difficult as you have to push your arm in through all the wiring and a coolant hose to put the bolt back in a few threads then get the long extension and swivel back on it to tighten all the way, just be sure to put the top studs that go through the bracket in loosely to align it properly before tightening that lower bolt.
Mine is 2wd..... I couldn't get enough height to install the new mount, so I removed the three bolts that hold the chassis (bottom) mount..... Took it out of the way and hung the new mount from the top (engine) bracket by it's nut and then re-installed the bottom bracket.....
Thank you for the helpful tips, I will be doing this tomorrow and I'm sure I can pull it off after watching this video, wish me luck...
Best of luck MrDandaman137! I heard in another guys video that this job is $1000 at the dealer. Doing it yourself will save a ton of money! Let me know if you have any questions.
@@savorwithdmurph1113 Done! My Envoy idles nice and smooth again. Thanx again.
Hey that is great news! It's a night and day difference ha mine rattled like crazy before I changed the motor mounts. I'm glad my video helped you with this repair. Cheers!
Nice video. Thanks
doing this tomorrow. have to replace the bracket that attaches to the motor on driver side.
Good luck on your repair wides1335! Please let me know how replacing the bracket goes. I saw that a few people recommended taking that part off for the repair, and I'm curious how the process goes.
The front axle goes through the oil pan on mine. Will I still be able to lift the engine??
Question
I don’t know if it would help but do you think if I do this i would have more room to get the back bolt that holds on the intake manifold, I can’t seem to get my hand back there.
I actually am not sure on that question. Just be careful when raising the engine when you check.
Where is a safe place to mount the jack? I was thinking of getting a Shop crane to hold it up
I place the jack on the bottom of the engine. There is a smooth spot with plenty of space near the oil drain plug. You will most likely have to remove a plastic panel to do so. Also, place a piece of wood on the part of the jack that lifts so you don’t damage the engine. A shop crane may work even better than the jack.
I have a 2006 chevey blazer how many mounts are there in vibrats bad when in park or at a stop
There are two side motor mounts and a transmission mount. Bad vibration is typically a motor mount. I never changed my transmission mount. Just be careful with this job. It's tight space and too much lifting of the engine can cause damage. You also don't want that engine coming down on a hand etc.
I replaced my mounts and now I feel more vibration than before any thoughts?
I’ve heard you need to use the GM mounts and that other brands people experience bad vibrations
Was that the cops or a ambulance?
The part I recommend is the AC Delco Motor Mount.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010GP6JVC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B010GP6JVC&linkCode=as2&tag=d0d417-20&linkId=49e3fbacbdd69c3187e752e389002aef%22%3EACDelco
At these the fluid filled mounts? Do they just rust out I suppose? I do phosphoric acid conversion of rust but not the mounts as the phosphoric acid eats through rubber
I too was having violent vibrations on starting and shutting off engine, as well as driving and stopping. I purchased my mounts here, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUJ9CUO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $81.99 per piece but is original GM product, not being a mechanic but having a lot of common sense I tackled this head on, I only had very common tools, I did buy the 21mm wench and a 21mm socket, some suggested taking the struts off. I did not, I did however take the 4 bolts that hold the fan on off to allow more clearance and not taking a chance on damage it, I also found it easier to take off the mounting bracket that holds the motor mount, the three bolts in front of the strut, this was easier for me and I did not remove the strut, I simply pried a bar between the spring and the body to allow the bolt to move out of way, (caution) in putting back these bolts neet to be pulled out as far as you can otherwise the bracket will not set flat on frame, I had to do the passenger twice as I didn't check this well until I was finishing up and noticed it, in all it took me about 8 hours, having to do it again I would say I could knock it down to 5 complete. the truck has no more vibration and or shakes..