Thanks for the compliment Charles, appreciate the kind words. Who knows, maybe you will have an Audi or Porsche in the future and need to swap out these wheel bearing, hehe!
Great DIY video..saved me a bit of time as I planned on removing the halfshaft bolts but it was not necessary at all My hub was a pain in the ass to remove but air hammer helped huge. My knuckle was very galled but I cleaned it up as best I could. The axle bolt isn't as tough as I thought...I cranked it on using only a 3ft breaker didn't need a cheater bar and did the full 180....might need a body cast tm tho lol Can you advice on use of antiseize?
Thanks for sharing your experience Kyle. Sometimes those bolts get corroded and can be a pain to remove. Congrats on being able to tighten that axle nut 180 degrees. Even with the cheater bar, I couldn't get it to go anymore. I use anti-seize anywhere that doesn't call for thread locker. Rotor stay bolt, lug nuts all exhaust components, basically anything that runs the risk of getting corroded. Cheers!
I agree 100 percent. Straight to the point and a less invasive procedure than other videos I’ve seen. Great cross reference information as far as indicating how other cars similar to this have the same part. I have a wagon so that was a concern for me. Great tool recommendations as well. You sold me! #subscribed
@@wildchild8635 Appreciate the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. We hope it helps you with your Audi project in the future. Thanks for subbing to the channel, Cheers!
Exactly! You hit the nail on the head! Some of these guys are good no doubt but this guy just used ah little more COMMON SENSE an made it so much easier without moving the arms around..I really second guessed doing it myself for that reason so..lol your absolutely Rt
Dude! My s5 had a new growling noise at 65k miles. Wasn't sure what it was but decided to take a chance and replace drivers front wheel bearing after seeing your guide. Perfect instructions. Loaned all the tools and got it done. Thanks you saved me a bunch.
Thanks for the kind words Jason, glad you enjoyed the video. Sounds like all that is left is to get out there and get that other side done. 😎 Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@jasonsmith7809 Very true, we just like to get them both done at the same time since the repair steps are fresh in our heads. Also, not to have to worry about it for at least another 65k miles. 😎 Cheers!
Many thanks for the awesome tutorial you have shared. After watching nearly all videos related to this topic, your seems to be the best. Have decided to tackle my bad bearing this weekend, took me 2 hours from start to finish with no rush. Didn't even need a bearing separator - once I got the bearing-hub assembly removed, I just used the 4 old bolts that hold the bearing in place and screwed them back in the bearing holder and tightened until they were touching the hub. Tightening around resulted in separating it from the hub nicely. The inner race was attached on the hub of course. A quick cut with an angle grinder and a few good taps with a sharp chisel removed the inner race. Pressed the new bearing on the hub using a threaded rod, a pair of nuts and large washers. Job done.
I agree it really is a good video. only 2 hrs it took u! I am struggling to finish this up 3 hrs so far but I look for bolts and stuff. This is so hard because the bolts were all tight in a tight space. Its great that we have such a good video to refer to. I'll finish it tomorrow and do the other side another day. Bradley's garage is on a different level than me for sure.
Thanks for the kind words Faras, appreciate the feedback. We are glad the video has helped you with your Audi project. Don't worry about the length of time it takes. The most important thing is challenging yourself and then accomplishing it. Let us know how it all comes back together, Cheers!
Your video definitely helped me replace both of my new hubs/bearings on my B8.5 S4. I definitely had a growl coming from the right front and now it’s gone. Good job and keep the videos coming 👍
How were you able to figure out which wb it was coming from? I figure that the noise is coming from the drivers side on my s4 but I can't figure out which wheel it's coming from.
After 164,000 miles my fronts were corroded and seized into the knuckle so bad that I had to rent a slide hammer to pull out the hub and the inner race and then re attach it to the bearing and pull it out there. A week later my other front bearing went bad so came right back to the video for a refresher. Thank you for the how to!
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Great to hear that it was able to help you out with your repair. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
Thank you for the video. Very helpful as I knocked out my B8 5 S4 driver front bearing/hub today. I rented an axle puller from my local Advanced Auto, and it worked perfectly getting the hub and bearing off. Save yourself some time, I had to heat and hammer one on a B8 A4 a few years back.
@@cello2018 Yes, a slide hammer axle tool that can help break things free. You may need to heat things up with a propane torch and soak the night before with some Kroil penetrating spray. We would spray it liberally every hour for 3 hours then let it sit overnight. Come back the next day and heat it up. The have a go at it with the slide hammer tool. Let us know how things go, Cheers!
Great video, I just replaced my front wheel bearing. This provided a lot of helpful insight and tools needed. Mine didn't come off as easily as yours did. I live in the rust belt and the wheel bearing was practically welded on with the corrosion between the Al steering Kunkle and the steel bearing hub. The bearing ended up coming apart with half still in the knuckle and the other half attached to the hub. Now my car is nice and quiet again. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed the video Tim, hope it helped you with your project. Sometimes they can be rusted on there pretty good, especially if you live in more harsher climates. Congrats on getting everything back together and enjoying the Audi again. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
For those attempting a back wheel. Dont do it unless you have the STUBBY triple square set with an accompanying box wrench to fit. I got all the way to the bottom two bolts on the hub and had to stop and put everything back together because I didnt have them.
Thank you for this video. Anyone wanting to do this should get a similar torx bit . I used a shorter one and it was more difficult, but would have been much easier with the bit he used. I used a torch since I'm in the salt belt. One bolt at a time. Very easy job and great video. Thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words. We try to help the everyday home mechanic perform these repairs without spending hundreds/thousands of dollars on repairs. Cheers!
Great job. I especially like the tip where you use a whole punch to lightly tap the four 12mm triple square bolts to free the bearing/hub assembly so that is pulls out as one piece.
For the axle bolt final torque angle...its easier to pull the breaker bar up from the left side using your whole body and legs (just watch your back) then it is to pull it down on the right side like you did. I was able to do the full 180° with only a 3ft breaker this way. Excellent video! Thx for torque settings too.
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Congrats on getting that axle nut tightened all the way. Mine wasn't getting any tighter 😎 Everything has been working great on the A4, no issues from any of the repairs. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Wish this guy was a local mechanic in my area. He makes things so simple. I changed both my front axles and they were a headache to replace. Now I need a bearing. Think I might do it myself after seeing this video.
Hey Barbie, thanks for kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Sorry to hear you had trouble with the axles. Hopefully this video will help you out with the wheel bearings. Let us know if you have any questions along the way. Good luck with your project, Cheers!
Tried this approach on the rear bearing for A4. Worked out great. For the two lower bolts on the hub, had to use low profile triple square bits, there is not enough space for a regular socket. Got the mini triple square bits online and got it done.
@@nathanmaguire1380 I was able to visually check the bolt from the other side to make sure it is protruding same amount as other 3 bolts. If you search on amazon for OTC 5942, 8 piece XZN , it should come up.
Hey Nathan, you will only be able to access the upper bolts with a torque wrench if you don't remove any suspension components. The bottom two you can use the stubby triple square socket with a ratcheting wrench. The downside is you won't be able to "torque" those to specs. You can get a feel for how tight to get the initial torque settings by switching between the torque wrench and ratcheting wrench on the upper bolts. The rest is just the stretching part which can be marked then turned. The rears are the same torque values, 59 ft. lbs/80Nm initial torque, then rotate an additional 90 degrees or ss much as you can 😎 Here is the link for the stubby socket - www.fcpeuro.com/products/12mm-xzn-3-8-dr-bit-socket-otc-5942-12 It looks like it's on backorder from FCP but you can use the part number to source it from another vendor. Here is another source - www.jegs.com/i/OTC-Tools/717/5942-12/10002/-1 Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Хорошее видео с пояснениями. Ауди всегда делает одноразовый крепеж с доворотом 90° не как остальные производители где просто указывается момент натяга.
Спасибо за комментарии, рад, что вам понравилось видео. Иногда для каждого ремонта приходится приобретать одноразовые крепежные детали. Приятно время от времени иметь обычные болты. Ваше здоровье!
Thanks for the comments Chronicle, appreciate the kind words. Glad the video helped you out with your Audi project. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Good job. I always include a speed sensor with the job quote. You said be careful. No fun when it all goes together and your abs light is on afterwards. .
Thanks RP, yeah It can get damaged doing the removal and installation but if you are careful, you should be good. It always sucks to have to take stuff back apart after getting everything done, that's for sure. Cheers!
Hey Joey, apologies for the late response. We have updated the description for the video to include the tool list. Please let us know how your repair goes. Thanks again for hanging out, we are glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Again, great video, and thank you. One question. I know you had the bearing remover and bearing press. Are there any drawbacks to purchasing F.A.G pre-assembled bearings?
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. The only downside to the complete assembly would be the cost. This works great if you don't have access to the few tools needed to remove the existing hubs from the bearings. Good luck on your Audi project. Cheers!
Hey JP, thanks for the question. If you are using a press, you can actually feel when it seats all the way. It will be moving easily with every pump of the handle, then you will feel it get tight and stop moving freely. That's when you know it's fully seated in the hub. Also visually you can get a good idea when it's all the way down. Hope this helps with your project, Cheers!
You are really good man..I noticed your tool game is extremely up to par! I’m definitely missing ah few of those toys you have! Anyways you made this look super easy..thx for making my day! You’ve definitely got a new subscriber 🍾
Thanks for the kind words Ed, appreciate the feedback. We are always adding to the tool game, it never seems to end 😁 Glad you enjoyed the video and becoming a sub, Cheers!
Great video. I having that when I drive Around 15 km a hear a sound metallic and then as speed up disappears Are the bearing bad ?? Any ideas will be appreciated
Thanks for the comments Leonardo, glad you enjoyed the video. It sounds like you might be having the same issue. Then again it could be as simple as a Brake pad/rotor issues as well. It's best to get the car off the ground and then spin the wheels by hand to see where the sound is coming from or if you feel anything that doesn't seem right. How many km's do you have on your car now? The wheel bearings are pretty common to start going bad around 150k. Let us know, Cheers!
Thanks for the video. Were those bearings making noise? I have a 2015 Q5 that has a weird growl/howl coming from the back end as soon as the car reaches around 25 MPH and it gets progressively louder and goes through tone changes as the speed increases.
Thanks for the question Kevin, it sounds like that is exactly your issue. The frequency will change as speed increases. On our A4 it was more of a vibration versus a howl but nevertheless it changed pitch with speed. Depending on how they are failing it can't be one or the other or a combination of the two. The other things that can make noise while driving and change with speed would be a tire that is out of balance or a failing axle shaft (if it's Quattro). Good luck on your Audi project. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage The wheel bearings completely fixed that noise. However, finding a 12 mm triple square bit that was short enough was a real challenge. On the Q5, the rear lower control arms interfere with getting a straight shot to those bolts. I actually stripped out the head of one bolt and had to cut It off. Once that bit slips even a little, your done. It took some Macgyvering to work around that.
@@kevinc.8869 We purchased a stubby XZN socket (www.fcpeuro.com/products/12mm-xzn-3-8-dr-bit-socket-otc-5942-12) for the rear but have not done the filming for it yet, as they are still good. The only downside is you "technically cannot use a torque wrench if you don't remove a bunch of suspension components. We were okay with that after trying to tighten the front and not even being able to rotate them to the recommended level. Congrats on getting it done though, as they can be tough sometimes. Cheers!
You can actually put bearing back together without a vise or a press. I did 1 of mine with a nice size piece of steal and a hammer and it went on very smoothly. Also the milwaukee m18 fuel impact to loosen the axle nut so you don't have to kill yourself with a breaker bar. It has more than enough nut busting torque. Honestly I have always used an impact to put the axle nuts back on without any issues on any car. Don't get me wrong if you're not careful you can mess it up.
Hey Matthew, thanks for the comments. We wanted to show how it could be done with minimal tools and or rental tools. Not everyone has an M18 impact gun at their disposal. Glad your method of hitting it with a hammer worked for you but we feel better using a vise or press as to not damage anything. The axle bolt is TTY (torque-to-yield) so we just wanted to show the proper method for that. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Thanks for the reply, when I said I used a hammer I meant that I tapped it down slowly almost how it's pressed on. Not smack on the actual bearing surface..lol. But I understand what you mean.
Trying to get that retianer spring on the caliper...have ing a hard time of seeing how it gose on..need some serious help on this audi a4 qtr 2.0t. 2010
Hey Wendell, sorry to hear you are having trouble with that spring. You can check out this video for a little help - ua-cam.com/video/VA4qiFVHdkc/v-deo.htmlsi=eOORnlXw5cpM8xBG&t=878 Good luck on you Audi project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
Thanks for questions. You can simply use some WD-40 and a green Scotch Brite pad to remove the surface rust and clean up the hub of you don't have any type of sand blaster. Then just blast the parts with brake cleaner and you should be good to go. As for the diagnosis for the bad hub, you will typically hear the worn bearing or possibly even a squealing sound while driving coming from the left or right side. With the A4 it was more of a vibration feeling versus sound, almost like a tire that was out of balance. If those cases, it's tough to just jack up the car and listen for a metal to metal or metallic sound while spinning. Sometimes you can jack up the car and then feel a little play by moving the wheel back and forth with your hands at the 9&3 o'clock position or 12&6 o'clock position. Good luck with your project. Cheers!
Thanks for the info, it's definitely an option to use the axle nut to press the bearings back on. We just wanted to show the other options for reassembly. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage oh dude I was talking about splitting the bearing splitter and bolting it back together under the bearing and race so you get the whole unit off in one piece. but you did great and the video was awesome! cheers
Great video! How do you feel about the QJZ brand hub/bearing combo (for my 2013 A6) that is on Amazon for about $115? Are these of inferior quality than the FAG brand that you used? Thanks.
Hey MrDutch, haven't had any experience with that brand but they seem to have good reviews online. We tend to buy most of our parts from FCP Euro because of the lifetime guarantee on everything. Even though these types of parts tend to last for many years, if you do end up having a problem 3-6 months down the road, you can get a replacement at no cost through FCP. With Amazon, you got only 30 days. Glad you enjoyed the video, hope this helps with your protect. Cheers!
Hey Mihalache, thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed the video. Yeah with the aftermarket parts they always change up something to challenge the repair. In this case you need to make sure you have both of those larger size Hex Sockets in your tool bag. The 17mm is used for lots of things on German cars but the 19mm is a little more special. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Hey David, thanks for the question. We were experiencing vibrations at highway speeds, 50+ MPH. It was like a droning/humming sound going down the road. Sometimes you might also hear a metal to metal grinding sound as well when they go bad. You also can get the wheels off the ground and then feel if there is any play by putting your hands at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and move them back and forth. If you are feeling play there, it will either be the wheel bearings or your suspension components (ball joint, control arm bushings, etc) Hope this helps with you Audi project. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
And no need for the bearing splitter, you can get them split before taking the 4 bearing studs out by using the wheel studs and a block between the bearing and hub.
I have the same Craftsman 1/2” breaker bar bought 20 years ago. It’s the only one I’d trust with a cheater pipe but since I love it so much and Craftsman has changed so much, I upgraded to 3/4” tools decor wheel/hub work.
We have been using Craftsman my entire life. I agree that the old ones are sacred since the new stuff is not the same, unfortunately. I always cringe a little when I have to replace a warranty tool @ Lowe's. Thanks for the comments though, Cheers!
Thanks for the question, the 2010 uses part # 4H0 498 625 A which was used from 2009-2016 A4 regardless of engine or transmission options. www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-wheel-bearing-kit-a4-a5-q5-s4-s5-4h0498625 Not sure where the 15mm vs 19mm dimensions come into play? We used these FAG bearings and they fit perfectly in our 2011 A4 CVT car. Good luck on your Audi project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
The bearing never drops out that easy, just did 1 today and had to feed the bearing bolts back in from the front with a rod through the back and beat it with a hammer,
Yes Roy, depending on what climate you live in it can be more difficult with corrosion and rusty bits. Fortunately we are in SoCal so we typically don't have too much corrosion which makes things easier. Thanks again for hanging out on the channel, Cheers!
@@roychallis2356 Sorry to hear you had trouble getting your bearings out. All the ones we worked on here in Southern California resemble our video. Sometimes we added a little heat but none have been too difficult to remove. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage it's all good, all part of the experience 🤣 and then finding a new way to pull them out, if you ever get a tough 1 like I had try my method before putting heat to it. It may be a new option👍
For what it's worth.... this is almost 100% relevant for when you wanna do a rear wheel bearing, but be warned that the bottom two bolts holding the wheel bearing to the knuckle are impossible to get at with normal tools. You need special low-profile insert bits that you will probably have to order online. Source: my S4 which has been on jack stands the past 4 days while I wait for shipping
Thanks for the comments, you are correct those (2) in the rear are partially blocked. We used the OTC 12mm short socket bit when doing ours. Unfortunately it looks like it's on backorder with no ETA. Hopefully yours arrive and you are able to get the rear back together. www.fcpeuro.com/products/12mm-xzn-3-8-dr-bit-socket-otc-5942-12 You might be able to find another socket from a different vendor that is in stock. Good luck on your Audi project, thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
We posted what we originally used above but here is an inexpensive option that may work as well. You can use a ratcheting wrench potentially to loosen those partially obstructed bolts. They sell both the longer fixed versions as well as the "socket only" options as well. www.amazon.com/Neiko-10078A-Triple-Square-Spline/dp/B000XYOUTA Cheers!
Hey DJ, the rear is a little bit trickier since the lower control arm bolt is kind of in the way from gaining direct access. The workaround to not having to remove any suspension components is a little investment in a stubby triple square socket or kit. Like this one: www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-complete-26-pc-stubby-socket-driver-set/019297sch01a/ OR www.tooldiscounter.com/product/otc-xzn-super-short-socket-bit-set-8-piece-otc5942 Or if you just want a single socket you could get something like this: www.fcpeuro.com/products/12mm-xzn-3-8-dr-bit-socket-otc-5942-12 There are two thing you need to be aware of going this route though. The first is it will be more challenging breaking them loose with a ratcheting wrench versus a breaker bar. You may need to get a "cheater" bar to slip over the ratcheting wrench for leverage. The second is there is no way to get a Torque wrench in there to verify the starting torque values for the stretch bolts before "stretching" them. So you will need to decide if you are comfortable going this route and if you want to invest in a another socket or socket kit. As you saw if the video for the front, after the initial 59 ft/lbs it was challenging to "stretch" them 90 more degrees. I would be more than comfortable doing the rears via this quick method and stretching them as much as I could after the initial tightening. After working on cars for so many years, you get a good idea of what 50-60 ft/lbs feels like and just go with that as your starting point. Hope this helps you with your project, Cheers!
Hey Macarrao, thanks for the question. We typically use either FAG or SKP bearings for all of our Euro projects. Timken (USA) and NSK (Japan) are also good bearings. It really comes down to your application and what options exist for your car. Cheers!
Hey Steven, thanks for the question, sorry we didn't mention it in the video. The rotor screw is a M6x16mm that uses a T30 torx bit. You can purchase it from FCPEuro here - www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-brake-rotor-set-screw-n10648301 Good luck on your Audi project, Cheers!
hey so when searching for parts it gives the option for 15mm or 19mm inner ring length. what’s the difference? how do i know which one i need? it’s the same exact car in the video
Hey IconOfSin, thanks for the question. My understanding is that the 15mm was the early version of the wheel bearing. Subsequent revisions of the part are now 19mm. I didn't even look into that stuff when ordering. We always get all of our euro stuff from FCP so I didn't think twice about it. Here is the Part Number: 4H0498625F Link - www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-wheel-bearing-kit-a4-a5-q5-s4-s5-4h0498625 This is the exact part we used on the video so you will have no issues installing this one. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage wow, thanks for the informative reply! going to be replacing both fronts next weekend. bought an extra wheel speed sensor just in case i break one. other than that, looks like a pretty straight forward job. great video, thanks again!
Hey Shane, not sure where you are located but you can grab one off Amazon - www.amazon.com/dp/B004W7F6S8 or Gearwrench brand - www.amazon.com/dp/B003DZ0PJU Or you can order online at Lowe's - www.lowes.com/pd/Capri-Tools-19mm-Hex-Bit-Socket-1-2-in-Drive-Metric/1002328824 Also Home Depot - www.homedepot.com/p/Capri-Tools-1-2-in-Drive-19-mm-Hex-Bit-Socket-3-0546/305590195 For those of you across the pond - www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637779643/19mm-12sq-drive-hex-socket-bit Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Great Video..DON'T DO IT !! Got the hub nut off just fine. Caliper bolts? Some asshat must have impact gunned them in. 30 minutes of penetrant and I registered 250 ft/lb on my torque wrench and couldn't budge either caliper bolt. Ended up using a box wrench and a C clamp around the shock-brace to encourage them 1/16 of a turn at a time. I estimate they were gunned in at over 400 ft/lb with an impact gun. Pulling the caliper took a hair under 2 hours. These are just positional bolts with lock washers...... On to the bearing retention bolts. I am an hour in on one of the four bolts, the easiest to access with absolutely zero luck. This is a 2012 Audi S5 and there is very minor corrosion around the hub assembly and bolts. I give your odds of success at this job 50/50 and about 5-8 hours of your day. I'm putting it back together and taking it to a shop to finish.
Sorry to hear about the difficulties you are having with your wheel bearings Marc. I can't believe how tight the previous guy got the caliper bolts, that's crazy. If someone has taken these parts off in the past 10 years and put them on incorrectly or overtightened them, it will definitely increase the difficulty with the job. Not sure if you tried heating the bolts up with a torch or not but it sounds like you are going to pass it along to the shop to play with. Kudos for giving it a shot though, getting out there and attempting it gives you first hand knowledge of how challenging these can be. Hopefully the next project you take on will be easier and go smoothly. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
I spent 4 h on one of the caliper bracket bolts. Head snapped probably due to the alu steel corrosion. Got it off after some lengthy struggle. Then with the bearing bolts off I needed to hammer a knife in between the hub and bearing plate to get it to move. I blame the road salt on Swedish winter roads. Heat might help with the bolts but I find it a bit hard as the alu hub spread the heat very fast.
Thanks for sharing your experience Johan. You will definitely have more difficulty if you live in a winter climate. Corrosion can be a challenge for sure. Glad you got it sorted out and got your project back on the road. Cheers!
The rear utilizes the same wheel bearing so that part is the same. The only trouble you will run into for the rear is the lower control arm bolt is right in the way for your access to the (2) lower wheel bearing bolts. Here is a quick video that shows what I am referring to - ua-cam.com/video/3TgupkZwvs8/v-deo.html After that lower control arm is loose, you will be able to access all (4) wheel bearing bolts and then proceed as we did for the fronts. Hope this makes sense and helps you with your project. Cheers!
Thanks for the comments. I went out and measured the Triple Square and it is in fact 100mm in length. The exact set I purchased is currently out of stock - www.amazon.com/VIM-Tools-XZN400-Triple-Square/dp/B0019COW5W But ECS might be able to get it as well - www.ecstuning.com/b-vim-tools-parts/xzn-triple-square-long-bit-set-of-9/xzn400~vim/ Looks like it's been updated to a black case. I purchased ours back in 2016 and have been very happy with it's durability and performance. Cheers!
Hey Teddy, thanks for the question. We used our tricked out Harbor Freight blast cabinet. It does a great job of removing rust and corrosion off of metal bits. Check out our full tutorial on modifying the basic HF blast cabinet. ua-cam.com/video/BiuGZusZYts/v-deo.html Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Thanks for pointing this out, it is definitely a good idea to throw a little grease on that hub before pressing on the bearing. It will help prevent corrosion if it ever needs to be replaced again. Good looking out, Cheers!
Thanks for the question, we are not sure what you are asking? The Axle bolt is a M16x1.5x72mm, not sure what "M12 Nut" you are referring to. Let us know, Cheers!
A4 Quattro, I’m having issues removing the rear wheel bearing unit, specifically the 4 XZN M12 bolts holding the house, Because of the drive shaft, space is seriously cramped. An ordinary XZN M12 bit/pipe hits the outer CV, and a longer 100 mm hits the transverse (too long). Audi’s instructions just states remove the bolts. Can anyone help? What type of XZN bit/pipe will work?
Thanks for the question Secura. You will only be able to access the upper bolts with a torque wrench if you don't remove any suspension components. The bottom two you can use the stubby triple square socket with a ratcheting wrench. The downside is you won't be able to "torque" those to specs. You can get a feel for how tight to get the initial torque settings by switching between the torque wrench and ratcheting wrench on the upper bolts. The rest is just the stretching part which can be marked then turned. The rears are the same torque values, 59 ft. lbs/80Nm initial torque, then rotate an additional 90 degrees or as much as you can 😎 Here is the link for the stubby socket - www.fcpeuro.com/products/12mm-xzn-3-8-dr-bit-socket-otc-5942-12 It looks like it's on backorder from FCP and most other vendors but you can use the part number to source it from another vendor. I would just reach out to make sure they actually have the socket in stock before placing the order. Here are some other sources: www.jegs.com/i/OTC-Tools/717/5942-12/10002/-1 www.centurytool.net/12_mm_XZN_Short_Socket_Bit_3_8_X5_8_X25mm_p/otc5942-12.htm You also may be able to find the complete set to add to your toolbox if you'd prefer. www.otctools.com/products/xzn-super-short-socket-bit-set-8pc www.tooldiscounter.com/product/otc-xzn-super-short-socket-bit-set-8-piece-otc5942 www.jegs.com/i/OTC-Tools/717/5942/10002/-1 Good luck on your project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
Thanks for the detailed reply. For anyone else with an A4 Allroad B9, in order to get the rear two lower XZN bolts off, you need to find a 90 mm long XZN M12 bit/pipe. The stubby one recommended will not fit as it collides with the outer CV case and you won’t get a secure fit. A 100 mm is too long, it collides with a transverse (I think it’s called). The 90 mm XZN M12 barely fits using the thinnest rachet you can find, but it does work.
Appreciate the feedback Seb, hope this helps the next guy doing an AWD version. If you have any specific model numbers or brand of what you used, please feel free to share. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Wish mine came off that easy.. all 4 bolts seized in the bearing mount and ended up stripping them so cut out with the grinder. Then I spent a few very careful hours with a slide hammer and a 4lb min sledge and half a can of spray. so much corrosion. Wish Audi put in a steel flange to stop dissimilar metals from welding themselves together.
Sorry to hear that Scott, sometimes depending on your climate they can be a pain. We are fortunate that SoCal doesn't really have any bad weather so there is no rust or corrosion to deal with. Congrats on getting your done, thanks for hanging out. Cheers!
I can not get the 4 bolts holdinh the bearing off. I have tried just about everything but there’s no way. They are 100% seized. I’ve warmed them up and everything, it’s not budging.
Hey Carl, sorry to hear you are having trouble getting those wheel bearing bolts out. We would recommend soaking them with penetrating spray (applied several times) and then letting it sit for 24 hours. Next you will need to use a Mapp Gas (which burns a little hotter than propane) torch to heat them up and then try your luck at breaking them free. If you are still having trouble, the next step would be to remove the outer wheel hub itself, using a slide hammer technique so you can have free access to the bolts. Then you can simply drill them out from the wheel side since they are exposed. Even if you just drill about 50% of the diameter, it may relive enough tension so you can break them free. Please keep us updated on how your project goes, Cheers!
Hey Ahmed, sorry to hear you are having trouble with the Audi wheel bearing removal. The only real option would be to drill out the M12 bolt. Because it goes all the way through the bearing you could use a slide hammer to pull the hub out of the bearing. This will provide access to the backside of the four wheel bearing bolts. Then you can drill out the bolt that is stripped. Since you are replacing the wheel bearing, you can go larger on the drill bit size to make sure you get the entire bolt. Just compare the diameter of one of the other bolts you were able to remove and select a drill bit slightly smaller. Just take your time and drill slowly with a metal cutting drill bit. Remember to periodically oil the drill bit during drilling. Let us know how it goes, Cheers!
@Bradleys Garage Thanks so much for the reply! Motivated me to finish the job! It's changed now, but, back on the road, still have a humming sound. Quite sad about that. Any suggestions would be appreciated! I have no noticable play in any of my wheels, which is very perplexing. Also, I replaced both the bearing and hub, they came already pressed. I cleaned the inside of where the bearing sits, but it didn't fully sit in, I had to use the bolts to pull it into the housing. Was that a bad idea?
Hey Zak, if you are having trouble getting the bearing out of the spindle, I would suggest getting a propane torch and heating up the wheel bearing. I have seen them get corroded and just be stuck in there. You can spray the entire seam with penetrating spray and let it soak in. Then use that torch to heat the bearing up. I prefer to loosen the bolts and hit them from behind like I did in the video but you can also use a flat chisel to separate the bearing from the spindle. I don't really like that method since it can do damage to the surface of the spindle where the wheel bearing sits. Sometimes though, you gotta do what you can to get rusty parts off. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
my bearing was corroded like crazy so I couldn't just hammer the bolts that holds the bearing to the knuckle. thankfully I bought a new hub as well with the new bearing so I took a breaker bar and a heavier hammer and beat at the old hub for a couple minutes. Eventually came loose
Yeah, I've heard stories of them being rusty and stuck pretty good. I guess it really depends on the climate where you are and what effect it has on the hub. If you don't mind the additional expense, it's definitely easier to replace the hub/bearing assembly as one unit. Then you won't need to worry about getting the old bearing off the hub and pressing the new one on. Thanks for the feedback and technique you used to get that rusty one out 👍 Cheers!
Hey Francis, yes unfortunately they are stretch bolts or TTY (Torque to Yield). That means after they are "stretched" they no longer have that torque value and will not be within factory specs. Since they are relatively inexpensive, it is advised to get new ones when doing the wheel bearings. Most of the kits include the bolts already since they know they need to be replaced. Good luck with your project, Cheers!
You can try Penetrating Spray like PB Blaster or Kroil. Apply it every few hours and let it soak in for a day. Then you can heat it up with a propane torch, good and hot and then you should be able to break it free. Keep in mind you might need a long cheater bar to get enough leverage. Also it may require 3/4" tools to have enough strength. Good luck on your Audi project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
Hey Edgar, if you have access to all the tools you should be able to get the job done in a few hours. The first side will take a bit longer but then it will be much quicker on the second side since you know what to expect. The hard part is how much difficulty you have remove the bearing assembly from the spindle. Depending on your climate and how much corrosion exists on the bearing, it may add some additional time removing it. Just spray it down with penetrating spray before you start removing everything and it should come out with minimal effort. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Hey KM, thanks for the question. The whole process will take about 2-3 hours depending on your experience level and your access to tools. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I was going to order the front passenger side wheel bearing assembly for my 2017 Audi A4 premium - question is are the front passenger and driver side wheel bearing / hub the same?
Hey KM, yes they are the same bearing on both the left and right side. Keep in mind since yours is a 2017 it's a B9 model which is very similar but not exactly the same as our video. It looks like there are no aftermarket wheel bearing options for the B9 currently. You will need to purchase them from Audi directly or an online reseller of OEM Audi parts. Here is the part # 8W0-498-625 www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem-parts/audi-wheel-bearing-and-hub-assembly-8w0498625 The good news is it looks like it comes complete with the bearing and hub. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Hey Casey, you definitely have the ability to replace the entire hub along with the bearing. That is just a more costly option if you don't have any of the appropriate tools at your disposal. I think it's best to have a local machine shop press them on for you or try to utilize a vise to press them on. It's looking increasingly difficult to locate any "entire hub" assemblies for sale right now. The only one I could find is an off brand for the Quattro and even that's on backorder - www.ecstuning.com/b-gsp-north-america-parts/wheel-bearing-assembly-with-hub-priced-each/230005~gsp/ Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Thanks for the comments, unfortunately they are sold separately with the hub and bearing in (2) pieces. There is typically nothing wrong with the hub unless the bearing was damaged for many miles and got overheated. We have been very happy with the FAG brand on many projects. Good luck on your Audi project. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage yeah good to know I hate pressing bearings in and out if there's a one piece assembly that I can just bolt on that's a lot easier for a DIY job
@@m4gician We have seen some cheap aftermarket parts (1 piece) but none that we would feel comfortable running on our cars. Having to press the bearing on does require a little more work but at least you know you have quality products that will last another 150k. Cheers!
Hey Kronik, apologies for the late response. It is very easy to either remove or just leave the ABS sensor in place while you remove the axle/hub assembly. Just take care when removing it and you should not have any issues. Good luck on your Audi project, Cheers!
You can use a flat tip screwdriver to pry against the pads/rotor in order to relieve the pressure from the pads. Just be careful not to damage the rotor. Sometimes you can get a good angle by inserting the screwdriver or pry bar in the vented rotor and push against the carrier/caliper. If your rotors are worn and have a lip on the outer edge it will make it more difficult. If that's the case, I would have no problem prying directly against the pads/rotors since the rotor will need to be replaced anyways. Hope this helps with your project, Cheers!
How come no one is replacing the rear bearing on a Quattro? Because its F'ing hard. Lol. I did mine. Now my speed sensor won't pickup. Driving me nuts.
Thanks for the comments UptownFights. The rears are definitely more challenging if you want to properly torque the bolts down. There are some short cuts if you use a short triple square socket, but you won't be able to "torque" everything to spec. The good news is you don't have to remove any suspension parts at all to accomplish it. We will post a video when we perform the rear wheel bearings to show the techniques. Cheers!
Thanks for the comments, that may happen as well but ours were stripped out from being overtightened. There is no need to crank it down that tight as it just simply holds the rotor in place so you can easily put the wheel on and start the lugs. The torqued down wheel keeps the rotor where it needs to be. You could get away with not even having the rotor stay bolt but it's a cheap easy replacement. Cheers!
Hey Penuji, is that $500 for the wheel bearing then an additional amount for the 3 hours labor? Even with these inflation prices the wheel bearing itself is only $105.99 currently so they are making some $$$. We are confident you can get them done and save yourself a ton of cash. Even if you need to borrow or rent some tools, you will be much better in the long run. Let us know how your project goes, Cheers!
started on my first xzn bolt just now. Just got it stripped bcus its tightened and stuck by the hand of the devil. Now i wanna write a letter to VW and condemn them for making such a useless bolt.
Sorry to hear that Zilla, sometimes they are corroded and can be very difficult. Please try to heat the others with a torch (we use the Map-Pro, Yellow bottle as it burns a little hotter than the Blue propane) to help free them up before attempting to loosen. For the one that is already stripped, I would recommend using a Dremel tool with a carbide disc and cut one or two lines on the backside of the bolt so you can use a hammer driver. You could also try to use a 4.5" cut off grinder as well but that's a little more dangerous. Torch- www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-Trigger-Start-Torch-Kit-TS4000KC/203368730 Hammer Driver- www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE You will need to remove the hub though to access the backside of the bolt using a slide hammer, which you should be able to rent from your local auto parts store. Slide Hammer- www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/pulley---gear-rental-tools/338774872d18/rental-tools-evertough-slide-hammer/ren1/67031 Axle Puller- www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/brake--tire---wheel-rental-tools/749f067e140e/rental-tools-evertough-axle-puller/ren1/67030 If you have success by heating the others with a torch, then you should be able to loosen the stripped one by applying a good amount of heat before attempting the hammer driver approach. Please be sure to remove the ABS sensor from the hub assembly though since it will not fair well with the excess heat. Let us know how it goes, good luck on your project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Hey thanks alot for these instructions, that was really kind of you write all this up and not even being paid for it. It shows that you as a person have an unique form of kindness which there is not alot of these days. Anyway, as i dont have all the tools and space to work, im just taking it to the shop and let the professionals handle it. Gives me a peace of mind. But thanks for the info.👍🏻
Appreciate the kind words Zilla, we always try to encourage people to roll their sleeves up and get dirty if they are comfortable. Sometimes it doesn't make sense but we share our thoughts on how we would attack it, in case you feel good. Hopefully the shop is able to get you taken care without breaking the bank. They could also try to drill it out as well since it doesn't really matter if the threads get damaged. The good news the new bearing comes with the new stretch bolts so you should have everything for the shop to get it done. Let us know how it goes, Cheers!
Sorry to hear that you are having trouble with yours Vedran. Sometimes corrosion can build up and make things difficult. We soak them for 24 hours with Kroil Penetrating Oil and then heat them up with a propane torch to break them free. Let us know what techniques work to get yours free. Cheers!
I tortured him for 2 days with a hammer, chisel, screwdrivers, WD40... I could not believe how hard the material was and with what strength the bearing was "welded" to the hub. I hit it in one corner so that it would start to spin and then it started to come off. I didn't have a torch. Literally an unreal situation. Thanks for support @@BradleysGarage 🤝
@vedran.z Glad to hear you got them out. I know they can be a pain if they are corroded in there. You gotta pick up that torch to add to your garage collection. They come in handy quite often. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Thanks!
Appreciate the Super Thanks! Hope the video helped you with you project. Thanks again for the support, Cheers!
Probably the best instructional video I have ever seen. This does not even pertain to my situation but I watched it anyway, lol!
Thanks for the compliment Charles, appreciate the kind words. Who knows, maybe you will have an Audi or Porsche in the future and need to swap out these wheel bearing, hehe!
Great DIY video..saved me a bit of time as I planned on removing the halfshaft bolts but it was not necessary at all
My hub was a pain in the ass to remove but air hammer helped huge.
My knuckle was very galled but I cleaned it up as best I could.
The axle bolt isn't as tough as I thought...I cranked it on using only a 3ft breaker didn't need a cheater bar and did the full 180....might need a body cast tm tho lol
Can you advice on use of antiseize?
Thanks for sharing your experience Kyle. Sometimes those bolts get corroded and can be a pain to remove.
Congrats on being able to tighten that axle nut 180 degrees. Even with the cheater bar, I couldn't get it to go anymore.
I use anti-seize anywhere that doesn't call for thread locker. Rotor stay bolt, lug nuts all exhaust components, basically anything that runs the risk of getting corroded. Cheers!
I agree 100 percent. Straight to the point and a less invasive procedure than other videos I’ve seen. Great cross reference information as far as indicating how other cars similar to this have the same part. I have a wagon so that was a concern for me. Great tool recommendations as well. You sold me! #subscribed
@@wildchild8635 Appreciate the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. We hope it helps you with your Audi project in the future. Thanks for subbing to the channel, Cheers!
You're the real hero for putting bolt sizes! Doing this tomorrow. Love it!
Hey Sean, appreciate the feedback, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
You just made my life easier lol. Thanks for showing the easy way and not where everyone takes off every control arm to do this job.
Glad we could help you out with your project Tim. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Exactly! You hit the nail on the head! Some of these guys are good no doubt but this guy just used ah little more COMMON SENSE an made it so much easier without moving the arms around..I really second guessed doing it myself for that reason so..lol your absolutely Rt
Dude! My s5 had a new growling noise at 65k miles. Wasn't sure what it was but decided to take a chance and replace drivers front wheel bearing after seeing your guide. Perfect instructions. Loaned all the tools and got it done. Thanks you saved me a bunch.
Thanks for the kind words Jason, glad you enjoyed the video. Sounds like all that is left is to get out there and get that other side done. 😎
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
yeah, im gonna wait to hear the growling from the other side. Why do it now when i can do it later.
@@jasonsmith7809 Very true, we just like to get them both done at the same time since the repair steps are fresh in our heads.
Also, not to have to worry about it for at least another 65k miles. 😎
Cheers!
Many thanks for the awesome tutorial you have shared. After watching nearly all videos related to this topic, your seems to be the best.
Have decided to tackle my bad bearing this weekend, took me 2 hours from start to finish with no rush. Didn't even need a bearing separator - once I got the bearing-hub assembly removed, I just used the 4 old bolts that hold the bearing in place and screwed them back in the bearing holder and tightened until they were touching the hub. Tightening around resulted in separating it from the hub nicely. The inner race was attached on the hub of course. A quick cut with an angle grinder and a few good taps with a sharp chisel removed the inner race. Pressed the new bearing on the hub using a threaded rod, a pair of nuts and large washers. Job done.
Hey Donatas, lots of great ideas on how you knocked it out with limited tools, congrats. Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
I agree it really is a good video. only 2 hrs it took u! I am struggling to finish this up 3 hrs so far but I look for bolts and stuff. This is so hard because the bolts were all tight in a tight space. Its great that we have such a good video to refer to. I'll finish it tomorrow and do the other side another day. Bradley's garage is on a different level than me for sure.
Thanks for the kind words Faras, appreciate the feedback. We are glad the video has helped you with your Audi project. Don't worry about the length of time it takes. The most important thing is challenging yourself and then accomplishing it. Let us know how it all comes back together, Cheers!
I gave it a shot this past weekend, just want to let you know that your video helped me tremendously and i appreciated your help on this job!!!!!
Hey Mark, glad to hear that our video helped you out. Congrats on getting it done. Another success story in the books!!! Cheers 👍
Your video definitely helped me replace both of my new hubs/bearings on my B8.5 S4. I definitely had a growl coming from the right front and now it’s gone. Good job and keep the videos coming 👍
Hey Ruben, great to hear the video helped you with your Audi. Appreciate the feedback, thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
How were you able to figure out which wb it was coming from? I figure that the noise is coming from the drivers side on my s4 but I can't figure out which wheel it's coming from.
After 164,000 miles my fronts were corroded and seized into the knuckle so bad that I had to rent a slide hammer to pull out the hub and the inner race and then re attach it to the bearing and pull it out there. A week later my other front bearing went bad so came right back to the video for a refresher. Thank you for the how to!
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Great to hear that it was able to help you out with your repair. Thanks again for hanging out.
Cheers!
Also good at 11:30 to thread in axle bolt to ensure your axle didnt pop out of channel BEFORE installing the 4 mounting bolts.
Excellent point, will keep that in mind for the next one. Cheers!
Thanks, Bradley -- awesome video! I love your camera angles and dedication to details and doing things correctly.
Thanks Jgizzy, glad you enjoyed the video. Appreciate the feedback and the kind words, Cheers!
Why can't all DIY videos be like this? Good work, sir! Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Audi project.
Cheers!
I have done this job myself and you explained the process perfectly. Great job!
Thanks for the kind words Dan, glad you enjoyed the video. Appreciate the feedback, have fun with your Audi, Cheers!
Thank you for the video. Very helpful as I knocked out my B8 5 S4 driver front bearing/hub today. I rented an axle puller from my local Advanced Auto, and it worked perfectly getting the hub and bearing off. Save yourself some time, I had to heat and hammer one on a B8 A4 a few years back.
Thanks for the comments Dean, glad you enjoyed the video. Appreciate the tip on renting the axle puller. Congrats on getting yours done, Cheers!
axle puller as in a slide hammer? mine wont budge for the life of me it’s corroded so badly
@@cello2018 Yes, a slide hammer axle tool that can help break things free. You may need to heat things up with a propane torch and soak the night before with some Kroil penetrating spray. We would spray it liberally every hour for 3 hours then let it sit overnight. Come back the next day and heat it up. The have a go at it with the slide hammer tool.
Let us know how things go, Cheers!
Great video, I just replaced my front wheel bearing. This provided a lot of helpful insight and tools needed. Mine didn't come off as easily as yours did. I live in the rust belt and the wheel bearing was practically welded on with the corrosion between the Al steering Kunkle and the steel bearing hub. The bearing ended up coming apart with half still in the knuckle and the other half attached to the hub. Now my car is nice and quiet again. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed the video Tim, hope it helped you with your project. Sometimes they can be rusted on there pretty good, especially if you live in more harsher climates.
Congrats on getting everything back together and enjoying the Audi again. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Thanks for this. The tools you used were available at harbor freight. This helped me tackle the job.
Thanks for the kind words Cookie, glad you enjoyed the video. Congrats on getting the job done yourself and saving a ton of cash. Cheers!
For those attempting a back wheel. Dont do it unless you have the STUBBY triple square set with an accompanying box wrench to fit. I got all the way to the bottom two bolts on the hub and had to stop and put everything back together because I didnt have them.
Thanks for the advice on the rear wheel bearings Nitnuiq. I'm sure we will make a cool video when it comes time to replace those. Cheers!
Thank you for this video. Anyone wanting to do this should get a similar torx bit . I used a shorter one and it was more difficult, but would have been much easier with the bit he used. I used a torch since I'm in the salt belt. One bolt at a time. Very easy job and great video. Thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words, we are glad the video helped you out on your Audi project. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
The quality of these videos keep getting better and better!
Thanks for the kind words. We try to help the everyday home mechanic perform these repairs without spending hundreds/thousands of dollars on repairs.
Cheers!
Coll
Cool
Great job. I especially like the tip where you use a whole punch to lightly tap the four 12mm triple square bolts to free the bearing/hub assembly so that is pulls out as one piece.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Audi project.
Cheers!
For the axle bolt final torque angle...its easier to pull the breaker bar up from the left side using your whole body and legs (just watch your back) then it is to pull it down on the right side like you did.
I was able to do the full 180° with only a 3ft breaker this way.
Excellent video! Thx for torque settings too.
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Congrats on getting that axle nut tightened all the way. Mine wasn't getting any tighter 😎
Everything has been working great on the A4, no issues from any of the repairs. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
I snapped my snap on bar doing these up 🤣
Wish this guy was a local mechanic in my area. He makes things so simple. I changed both my front axles and they were a headache to replace. Now I need a bearing. Think I might do it myself after seeing this video.
Hey Barbie, thanks for kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Sorry to hear you had trouble with the axles.
Hopefully this video will help you out with the wheel bearings. Let us know if you have any questions along the way. Good luck with your project, Cheers!
Tried this approach on the rear bearing for A4. Worked out great. For the two lower bolts on the hub, had to use low profile triple square bits, there is not enough space for a regular socket. Got the mini triple square bits online and got it done.
Thanks for the advice on the rear wheel bearings. I'm sure we will add a kewl video once we get around to doing those. Cheers!
Were you able to use a torque wrench to tighten them to the right spec? If so could you link or tell me the name of the tripple square set you bought?
@@nathanmaguire1380 I was able to visually check the bolt from the other side to make sure it is protruding same amount as other 3 bolts. If you search on amazon for OTC 5942, 8 piece XZN , it should come up.
Hey Nathan, you will only be able to access the upper bolts with a torque wrench if you don't remove any suspension components. The bottom two you can use the stubby triple square socket with a ratcheting wrench. The downside is you won't be able to "torque" those to specs. You can get a feel for how tight to get the initial torque settings by switching between the torque wrench and ratcheting wrench on the upper bolts. The rest is just the stretching part which can be marked then turned. The rears are the same torque values, 59 ft. lbs/80Nm initial torque, then rotate an additional 90 degrees or ss much as you can 😎
Here is the link for the stubby socket -
www.fcpeuro.com/products/12mm-xzn-3-8-dr-bit-socket-otc-5942-12
It looks like it's on backorder from FCP but you can use the part number to source it from another vendor.
Here is another source - www.jegs.com/i/OTC-Tools/717/5942-12/10002/-1
Good luck on your project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Thanks a ton for the help! What size ratchet wrench would i want for that?
Awesome video. No messing around or fluff. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Audi project.
Cheers!
This video shows the best and easiest way to get the job done!
Thanks for the kind words 👍
Cheers!
A real world how to do video. Plain and simple 😌 great stuff . Respect from Ireland.
Appreciate the feedback, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Iv done these before but decided to do recap , great video man
Thanks for the comments Jaime, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Audi project.
Cheers!
Хорошее видео с пояснениями. Ауди всегда делает одноразовый крепеж с доворотом 90° не как остальные производители где просто указывается момент натяга.
Спасибо за комментарии, рад, что вам понравилось видео.
Иногда для каждого ремонта приходится приобретать одноразовые крепежные детали. Приятно время от времени иметь обычные болты.
Ваше здоровье!
Awesome video! You are a Pro! Im doing the Audi next week.
Thanks for the kind words! Good luck on your project. Cheers!
Great video...very clear...gives me the confidence to try it !!! Cheers Gary
Thanks for the kind words Gary, glad you enjoyed the video. Feel free to reach out if you run into any issues while doing yours.
Cheers!
Bro your video is the greatest of the all many thanks I really appreciate this video it works for me
Thanks for the comments Chronicle, appreciate the kind words.
Glad the video helped you out with your Audi project. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Good job. I always include a speed sensor with the job quote. You said be careful. No fun when it all goes together and your abs light is on afterwards. .
Thanks RP, yeah It can get damaged doing the removal and installation but if you are careful, you should be good. It always sucks to have to take stuff back apart after getting everything done, that's for sure. Cheers!
Awesome video. I’m going to tackle it tomorrow. Do you have a list of all the tools needed to accomplish this!
Hey Joey, apologies for the late response. We have updated the description for the video to include the tool list. Please let us know how your repair goes.
Thanks again for hanging out, we are glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I appreciate you updating the video to include the tool list. I’ll be tackling it tomorrow. Wish me luck.
Thank you!
@@LastofaDyingBreed32 No worries, glad we could help out. Let us know how the project goes. Cheers!
Awesome video! It worked great for the Q5 TDI that I did.
Thanks for the comments Gregory, glad the video helped you out with your Q5. Appreciate the feedback, Cheers!
Again, great video, and thank you. One question. I know you had the bearing remover and bearing press. Are there any drawbacks to purchasing F.A.G pre-assembled bearings?
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. The only downside to the complete assembly would be the cost. This works great if you don't have access to the few tools needed to remove the existing hubs from the bearings.
Good luck on your Audi project.
Cheers!
Great video! Thank you. One question is, how do you know when the bearing is seated when you press in the hub?
Hey JP, thanks for the question. If you are using a press, you can actually feel when it seats all the way. It will be moving easily with every pump of the handle, then you will feel it get tight and stop moving freely. That's when you know it's fully seated in the hub.
Also visually you can get a good idea when it's all the way down.
Hope this helps with your project, Cheers!
You are really good man..I noticed your tool game is extremely up to par! I’m definitely missing ah few of those toys you have! Anyways you made this look super easy..thx for making my day! You’ve definitely got a new subscriber 🍾
Thanks for the kind words Ed, appreciate the feedback. We are always adding to the tool game, it never seems to end 😁
Glad you enjoyed the video and becoming a sub, Cheers!
Great video.
I having that when I drive Around 15 km a hear a sound metallic and then as speed up disappears
Are the bearing bad ??
Any ideas will be appreciated
Thanks for the comments Leonardo, glad you enjoyed the video. It sounds like you might be having the same issue. Then again it could be as simple as a Brake pad/rotor issues as well. It's best to get the car off the ground and then spin the wheels by hand to see where the sound is coming from or if you feel anything that doesn't seem right.
How many km's do you have on your car now?
The wheel bearings are pretty common to start going bad around 150k. Let us know, Cheers!
Easily the best tutorial for this task.
Thanks for the kind words Paperstacks, glad you enjoyed the video. Hope this helped you with your project, Cheers!
Thanks for the video. Were those bearings making noise? I have a 2015 Q5 that has a weird growl/howl coming from the back end as soon as the car reaches around 25 MPH and it gets progressively louder and goes through tone changes as the speed increases.
Thanks for the question Kevin, it sounds like that is exactly your issue. The frequency will change as speed increases. On our A4 it was more of a vibration versus a howl but nevertheless it changed pitch with speed. Depending on how they are failing it can't be one or the other or a combination of the two.
The other things that can make noise while driving and change with speed would be a tire that is out of balance or a failing axle shaft (if it's Quattro). Good luck on your Audi project. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Roger that, I'm putting in a set over the weekend, hopefully that does it, thank you for the response.
@@BradleysGarage The wheel bearings completely fixed that noise. However, finding a 12 mm triple square bit that was short enough was a real challenge. On the Q5, the rear lower control arms interfere with getting a straight shot to those bolts. I actually stripped out the head of one bolt and had to cut It off. Once that bit slips even a little, your done.
It took some Macgyvering to work around that.
@@kevinc.8869 We purchased a stubby XZN socket (www.fcpeuro.com/products/12mm-xzn-3-8-dr-bit-socket-otc-5942-12) for the rear but have not done the filming for it yet, as they are still good.
The only downside is you "technically cannot use a torque wrench if you don't remove a bunch of suspension components.
We were okay with that after trying to tighten the front and not even being able to rotate them to the recommended level.
Congrats on getting it done though, as they can be tough sometimes.
Cheers!
You can actually put bearing back together without a vise or a press. I did 1 of mine with a nice size piece of steal and a hammer and it went on very smoothly. Also the milwaukee m18 fuel impact to loosen the axle nut so you don't have to kill yourself with a breaker bar. It has more than enough nut busting torque. Honestly I have always used an impact to put the axle nuts back on without any issues on any car. Don't get me wrong if you're not careful you can mess it up.
Hey Matthew, thanks for the comments. We wanted to show how it could be done with minimal tools and or rental tools. Not everyone has an M18 impact gun at their disposal. Glad your method of hitting it with a hammer worked for you but we feel better using a vise or press as to not damage anything.
The axle bolt is TTY (torque-to-yield) so we just wanted to show the proper method for that. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Thanks for the reply, when I said I used a hammer I meant that I tapped it down slowly almost how it's pressed on. Not smack on the actual bearing surface..lol. But I understand what you mean.
Thank you very much for your excellent easy explanation
Glad you enjoyed the video, hope it helped you with your project, Cheers!
Trying to get that retianer spring on the caliper...have ing a hard time of seeing how it gose on..need some serious help on this audi a4 qtr 2.0t. 2010
Hey Wendell, sorry to hear you are having trouble with that spring. You can check out this video for a little help - ua-cam.com/video/VA4qiFVHdkc/v-deo.htmlsi=eOORnlXw5cpM8xBG&t=878
Good luck on you Audi project, let us know how it goes.
Cheers!
great video! i don't have a sand blaster or something to use the aluminum oxide. Is there an alternative I could use?
also another question: how do you diagnose a bad wheel hub?
Thanks for questions. You can simply use some WD-40 and a green Scotch Brite pad to remove the surface rust and clean up the hub of you don't have any type of sand blaster. Then just blast the parts with brake cleaner and you should be good to go.
As for the diagnosis for the bad hub, you will typically hear the worn bearing or possibly even a squealing sound while driving coming from the left or right side.
With the A4 it was more of a vibration feeling versus sound, almost like a tire that was out of balance. If those cases, it's tough to just jack up the car and listen for a metal to metal or metallic sound while spinning.
Sometimes you can jack up the car and then feel a little play by moving the wheel back and forth with your hands at the 9&3 o'clock position or 12&6 o'clock position.
Good luck with your project.
Cheers!
just a heads up you can separate the bearing splitter and reassemble it back under the bearing and just use that. :)
Thanks for the info, it's definitely an option to use the axle nut to press the bearings back on. We just wanted to show the other options for reassembly.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage oh dude I was talking about splitting the bearing splitter and bolting it back together under the bearing and race so you get the whole unit off in one piece. but you did great and the video was awesome! cheers
@@3GermanCars No worries, thanks again for hanging out.
Cheers!
Great video! How do you feel about the QJZ brand hub/bearing combo (for my 2013 A6) that is on Amazon for about $115? Are these of inferior quality than the FAG brand that you used? Thanks.
Hey MrDutch, haven't had any experience with that brand but they seem to have good reviews online. We tend to buy most of our parts from FCP Euro because of the lifetime guarantee on everything. Even though these types of parts tend to last for many years, if you do end up having a problem 3-6 months down the road, you can get a replacement at no cost through FCP.
With Amazon, you got only 30 days.
Glad you enjoyed the video, hope this helps with your protect. Cheers!
Hi, great video and very helpful...but who knows why the original axle nut is hex 19 and the spare one comes hex 17?
Hey Mihalache, thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed the video. Yeah with the aftermarket parts they always change up something to challenge the repair. In this case you need to make sure you have both of those larger size Hex Sockets in your tool bag. The 17mm is used for lots of things on German cars but the 19mm is a little more special.
Good luck on your project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Thanks for answering...yeah I do have the sockets...hopefully it fits and don't have to buy separately a 19mm nut.🤦♂️
What were the symptoms that caused the bearings to need replacing? They looked okay but I really couldn't tell.
Hey David, thanks for the question. We were experiencing vibrations at highway speeds, 50+ MPH. It was like a droning/humming sound going down the road.
Sometimes you might also hear a metal to metal grinding sound as well when they go bad.
You also can get the wheels off the ground and then feel if there is any play by putting your hands at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and move them back and forth. If you are feeling play there, it will either be the wheel bearings or your suspension components (ball joint, control arm bushings, etc)
Hope this helps with you Audi project. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
And no need for the bearing splitter, you can get them split before taking the 4 bearing studs out by using the wheel studs and a block between the bearing and hub.
Thanks for the tip Roy, that will save a trip to the parts store to rent the bearing puller. Cheers!
I have the same Craftsman 1/2” breaker bar bought 20 years ago. It’s the only one I’d trust with a cheater pipe but since I love it so much and Craftsman has changed so much, I upgraded to 3/4” tools decor wheel/hub work.
We have been using Craftsman my entire life. I agree that the old ones are sacred since the new stuff is not the same, unfortunately.
I always cringe a little when I have to replace a warranty tool @ Lowe's. Thanks for the comments though, Cheers!
What’s the size of the bearing I need for a 2010 Audi A4 Quattro 2.T 7 speed mauel 15mm or 19mm
Thanks for the question, the 2010 uses part # 4H0 498 625 A which was used from 2009-2016 A4 regardless of engine or transmission options.
www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-wheel-bearing-kit-a4-a5-q5-s4-s5-4h0498625
Not sure where the 15mm vs 19mm dimensions come into play? We used these FAG bearings and they fit perfectly in our 2011 A4 CVT car.
Good luck on your Audi project, let us know how it goes.
Cheers!
The bearing never drops out that easy, just did 1 today and had to feed the bearing bolts back in from the front with a rod through the back and beat it with a hammer,
Yes Roy, depending on what climate you live in it can be more difficult with corrosion and rusty bits. Fortunately we are in SoCal so we typically don't have too much corrosion which makes things easier.
Thanks again for hanging out on the channel, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I'm in Spain buddy, no corroded parts here
@@roychallis2356 Sorry to hear you had trouble getting your bearings out. All the ones we worked on here in Southern California resemble our video. Sometimes we added a little heat but none have been too difficult to remove. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage it's all good, all part of the experience 🤣 and then finding a new way to pull them out, if you ever get a tough 1 like I had try my method before putting heat to it. It may be a new option👍
For what it's worth.... this is almost 100% relevant for when you wanna do a rear wheel bearing, but be warned that the bottom two bolts holding the wheel bearing to the knuckle are impossible to get at with normal tools. You need special low-profile insert bits that you will probably have to order online. Source: my S4 which has been on jack stands the past 4 days while I wait for shipping
@blucobalt8688 can u link the bit needed?
Thanks for the comments, you are correct those (2) in the rear are partially blocked. We used the OTC 12mm short socket bit when doing ours. Unfortunately it looks like it's on backorder with no ETA. Hopefully yours arrive and you are able to get the rear back together.
www.fcpeuro.com/products/12mm-xzn-3-8-dr-bit-socket-otc-5942-12
You might be able to find another socket from a different vendor that is in stock.
Good luck on your Audi project, thanks again for hanging out.
Cheers!
We posted what we originally used above but here is an inexpensive option that may work as well. You can use a ratcheting wrench potentially to loosen those partially obstructed bolts. They sell both the longer fixed versions as well as the "socket only" options as well.
www.amazon.com/Neiko-10078A-Triple-Square-Spline/dp/B000XYOUTA
Cheers!
Is the same process for the REAR ? Do we have to lower the control arm ?
Hey DJ, the rear is a little bit trickier since the lower control arm bolt is kind of in the way from gaining direct access. The workaround to not having to remove any suspension components is a little investment in a stubby triple square socket or kit.
Like this one:
www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-complete-26-pc-stubby-socket-driver-set/019297sch01a/
OR
www.tooldiscounter.com/product/otc-xzn-super-short-socket-bit-set-8-piece-otc5942
Or if you just want a single socket you could get something like this:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/12mm-xzn-3-8-dr-bit-socket-otc-5942-12
There are two thing you need to be aware of going this route though.
The first is it will be more challenging breaking them loose with a ratcheting wrench versus a breaker bar. You may need to get a "cheater" bar to slip over the ratcheting wrench for leverage.
The second is there is no way to get a Torque wrench in there to verify the starting torque values for the stretch bolts before "stretching" them.
So you will need to decide if you are comfortable going this route and if you want to invest in a another socket or socket kit.
As you saw if the video for the front, after the initial 59 ft/lbs it was challenging to "stretch" them 90 more degrees. I would be more than comfortable doing the rears via this quick method and stretching them as much as I could after the initial tightening. After working on cars for so many years, you get a good idea of what 50-60 ft/lbs feels like and just go with that as your starting point.
Hope this helps you with your project, Cheers!
what are the three best bearing brand for audi a4 wheel
Hey Macarrao, thanks for the question. We typically use either FAG or SKP bearings for all of our Euro projects. Timken (USA) and NSK (Japan) are also good bearings. It really comes down to your application and what options exist for your car. Cheers!
Do you remember what size the rotor bolt is and what socket it takes?
Hey Steven, thanks for the question, sorry we didn't mention it in the video. The rotor screw is a M6x16mm that uses a T30 torx bit.
You can purchase it from FCPEuro here -
www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-brake-rotor-set-screw-n10648301
Good luck on your Audi project, Cheers!
hey so when searching for parts it gives the option for 15mm or 19mm inner ring length. what’s the difference? how do i know which one i need? it’s the same exact car in the video
Hey IconOfSin, thanks for the question. My understanding is that the 15mm was the early version of the wheel bearing. Subsequent revisions of the part are now 19mm. I didn't even look into that stuff when ordering. We always get all of our euro stuff from FCP so I didn't think twice about it.
Here is the Part Number: 4H0498625F
Link - www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-wheel-bearing-kit-a4-a5-q5-s4-s5-4h0498625
This is the exact part we used on the video so you will have no issues installing this one. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage wow, thanks for the informative reply! going to be replacing both fronts next weekend. bought an extra wheel speed sensor just in case i break one. other than that, looks like a pretty straight forward job. great video, thanks again!
@@iconofsin66 Sounds like fun, good luck on your project. Let us know how things go, Cheers!
Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video.
Cheers!
What's the torque. Value for the wheel bolts?
Thanks for the question Victor, the proper torque for the wheel lug nuts is 120Nm or 90 ft-lbs. Good luck on your Audi project.
Cheers!
Great video just doing it, many thanks
Thanks Big Willy, glad the video helped you with your project, Cheers!
Soo the torque setting for the caliper carrier bolts is 145ft. lbs?
That would be correct or 196Nm! 14:47 just for a quick reminder. Please let us know if you have any other questions about the video! Cheers
where can you get the big 19mm hex am hunting every where for one?
Hey Shane, not sure where you are located but you can grab one off Amazon -
www.amazon.com/dp/B004W7F6S8
or Gearwrench brand -
www.amazon.com/dp/B003DZ0PJU
Or you can order online at Lowe's -
www.lowes.com/pd/Capri-Tools-19mm-Hex-Bit-Socket-1-2-in-Drive-Metric/1002328824
Also Home Depot -
www.homedepot.com/p/Capri-Tools-1-2-in-Drive-19-mm-Hex-Bit-Socket-3-0546/305590195
For those of you across the pond -
www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637779643/19mm-12sq-drive-hex-socket-bit
Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Great Video..DON'T DO IT !!
Got the hub nut off just fine.
Caliper bolts? Some asshat must have impact gunned them in. 30 minutes of penetrant and I registered 250 ft/lb on my torque wrench and couldn't budge either caliper bolt. Ended up using a box wrench and a C clamp around the shock-brace to encourage them 1/16 of a turn at a time. I estimate they were gunned in at over 400 ft/lb with an impact gun. Pulling the caliper took a hair under 2 hours.
These are just positional bolts with lock washers......
On to the bearing retention bolts.
I am an hour in on one of the four bolts, the easiest to access with absolutely zero luck.
This is a 2012 Audi S5 and there is very minor corrosion around the hub assembly and bolts.
I give your odds of success at this job 50/50 and about 5-8 hours of your day. I'm putting it back together and taking it to a shop to finish.
Sorry to hear about the difficulties you are having with your wheel bearings Marc. I can't believe how tight the previous guy got the caliper bolts, that's crazy. If someone has taken these parts off in the past 10 years and put them on incorrectly or overtightened them, it will definitely increase the difficulty with the job.
Not sure if you tried heating the bolts up with a torch or not but it sounds like you are going to pass it along to the shop to play with.
Kudos for giving it a shot though, getting out there and attempting it gives you first hand knowledge of how challenging these can be.
Hopefully the next project you take on will be easier and go smoothly. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
I spent 4 h on one of the caliper bracket bolts. Head snapped probably due to the alu steel corrosion. Got it off after some lengthy struggle. Then with the bearing bolts off I needed to hammer a knife in between the hub and bearing plate to get it to move. I blame the road salt on Swedish winter roads. Heat might help with the bolts but I find it a bit hard as the alu hub spread the heat very fast.
Thanks for sharing your experience Johan. You will definitely have more difficulty if you live in a winter climate. Corrosion can be a challenge for sure. Glad you got it sorted out and got your project back on the road. Cheers!
Is this the same process for a 2016 a4 in the rear?
The rear utilizes the same wheel bearing so that part is the same. The only trouble you will run into for the rear is the lower control arm bolt is right in the way for your access to the (2) lower wheel bearing bolts. Here is a quick video that shows what I am referring to - ua-cam.com/video/3TgupkZwvs8/v-deo.html
After that lower control arm is loose, you will be able to access all (4) wheel bearing bolts and then proceed as we did for the fronts. Hope this makes sense and helps you with your project.
Cheers!
Great job! Is Triple square 100mm long or not?
Thanks for the comments. I went out and measured the Triple Square and it is in fact 100mm in length.
The exact set I purchased is currently out of stock - www.amazon.com/VIM-Tools-XZN400-Triple-Square/dp/B0019COW5W
But ECS might be able to get it as well - www.ecstuning.com/b-vim-tools-parts/xzn-triple-square-long-bit-set-of-9/xzn400~vim/
Looks like it's been updated to a black case. I purchased ours back in 2016 and have been very happy with it's durability and performance.
Cheers!
VW says to BACK OFF 180 degrees. Retighten to 37ftlbs. Then tighten 60 degrees. That is for a Passat, NOT an audi.
Excellent point. Cheers!
what did you use to remove the rust?
Hey Teddy, thanks for the question. We used our tricked out Harbor Freight blast cabinet. It does a great job of removing rust and corrosion off of metal bits.
Check out our full tutorial on modifying the basic HF blast cabinet.
ua-cam.com/video/BiuGZusZYts/v-deo.html
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
No grease btw hub and new bearing?
Thanks for pointing this out, it is definitely a good idea to throw a little grease on that hub before pressing on the bearing. It will help prevent corrosion if it ever needs to be replaced again. Good looking out, Cheers!
You did not remove the axle - how long is the M12 nut?
Thanks for the question, we are not sure what you are asking?
The Axle bolt is a M16x1.5x72mm, not sure what "M12 Nut" you are referring to.
Let us know, Cheers!
A4 Quattro, I’m having issues removing the rear wheel bearing unit, specifically the 4 XZN M12 bolts holding the house, Because of the drive shaft, space is seriously cramped. An ordinary XZN M12 bit/pipe hits the outer CV, and a longer 100 mm hits the transverse (too long). Audi’s instructions just states remove the bolts.
Can anyone help? What type of XZN bit/pipe will work?
Thanks for the question Secura. You will only be able to access the upper bolts with a torque wrench if you don't remove any suspension components. The bottom two you can use the stubby triple square socket with a ratcheting wrench. The downside is you won't be able to "torque" those to specs. You can get a feel for how tight to get the initial torque settings by switching between the torque wrench and ratcheting wrench on the upper bolts. The rest is just the stretching part which can be marked then turned. The rears are the same torque values, 59 ft. lbs/80Nm initial torque, then rotate an additional 90 degrees or as much as you can 😎
Here is the link for the stubby socket -
www.fcpeuro.com/products/12mm-xzn-3-8-dr-bit-socket-otc-5942-12
It looks like it's on backorder from FCP and most other vendors but you can use the part number to source it from another vendor. I would just reach out to make sure they actually have the socket in stock before placing the order.
Here are some other sources:
www.jegs.com/i/OTC-Tools/717/5942-12/10002/-1
www.centurytool.net/12_mm_XZN_Short_Socket_Bit_3_8_X5_8_X25mm_p/otc5942-12.htm
You also may be able to find the complete set to add to your toolbox if you'd prefer.
www.otctools.com/products/xzn-super-short-socket-bit-set-8pc
www.tooldiscounter.com/product/otc-xzn-super-short-socket-bit-set-8-piece-otc5942
www.jegs.com/i/OTC-Tools/717/5942/10002/-1
Good luck on your project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
Thanks for the detailed reply.
For anyone else with an A4 Allroad B9, in order to get the rear two lower XZN bolts off, you need to find a 90 mm long XZN M12 bit/pipe. The stubby one recommended will not fit as it collides with the outer CV case and you won’t get a secure fit. A 100 mm is too long, it collides with a transverse (I think it’s called).
The 90 mm XZN M12 barely fits using the thinnest rachet you can find, but it does work.
Appreciate the feedback Seb, hope this helps the next guy doing an AWD version.
If you have any specific model numbers or brand of what you used, please feel free to share.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Très belle vidéo très bien détaillé
Merci pour ces mots gentils. Content que tu aies apprécié la vidéo. Acclamations!
Wish mine came off that easy.. all 4 bolts seized in the bearing mount and ended up stripping them so cut out with the grinder. Then I spent a few very careful hours with a slide hammer and a 4lb min sledge and half a can of spray. so much corrosion. Wish Audi put in a steel flange to stop dissimilar metals from welding themselves together.
Sorry to hear that Scott, sometimes depending on your climate they can be a pain. We are fortunate that SoCal doesn't really have any bad weather so there is no rust or corrosion to deal with. Congrats on getting your done, thanks for hanging out.
Cheers!
GJ man, thx for video.
Thanks Ma, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
I can not get the 4 bolts holdinh the bearing off. I have tried just about everything but there’s no way. They are 100% seized. I’ve warmed them up and everything, it’s not budging.
Hey Carl, sorry to hear you are having trouble getting those wheel bearing bolts out.
We would recommend soaking them with penetrating spray (applied several times) and then letting it sit for 24 hours. Next you will need to use a Mapp Gas (which burns a little hotter than propane) torch to heat them up and then try your luck at breaking them free.
If you are still having trouble, the next step would be to remove the outer wheel hub itself, using a slide hammer technique so you can have free access to the bolts.
Then you can simply drill them out from the wheel side since they are exposed. Even if you just drill about 50% of the diameter, it may relive enough tension so you can break them free.
Please keep us updated on how your project goes, Cheers!
And to put the hub and bearing together just put the bearing in and then the hub and hub nut, the hub nut will pull the 2 together straight and clean
Thanks for the comments Roy, appreciate the tip. Cheers!
I've stripped one of my M12 bolts, on the bottom. Anybody has any advice to remove it?
Hey Ahmed, sorry to hear you are having trouble with the Audi wheel bearing removal. The only real option would be to drill out the M12 bolt. Because it goes all the way through the bearing you could use a slide hammer to pull the hub out of the bearing. This will provide access to the backside of the four wheel bearing bolts.
Then you can drill out the bolt that is stripped. Since you are replacing the wheel bearing, you can go larger on the drill bit size to make sure you get the entire bolt. Just compare the diameter of one of the other bolts you were able to remove and select a drill bit slightly smaller.
Just take your time and drill slowly with a metal cutting drill bit. Remember to periodically oil the drill bit during drilling.
Let us know how it goes, Cheers!
@Bradleys Garage Thanks so much for the reply! Motivated me to finish the job! It's changed now, but, back on the road, still have a humming sound. Quite sad about that. Any suggestions would be appreciated! I have no noticable play in any of my wheels, which is very perplexing. Also, I replaced both the bearing and hub, they came already pressed. I cleaned the inside of where the bearing sits, but it didn't fully sit in, I had to use the bolts to pull it into the housing. Was that a bad idea?
My wheel bearing is stuck, how do I get it off without removing the entire upper link arm?
Hey Zak, if you are having trouble getting the bearing out of the spindle, I would suggest getting a propane torch and heating up the wheel bearing. I have seen them get corroded and just be stuck in there.
You can spray the entire seam with penetrating spray and let it soak in. Then use that torch to heat the bearing up. I prefer to loosen the bolts and hit them from behind like I did in the video but you can also use a flat chisel to separate the bearing from the spindle. I don't really like that method since it can do damage to the surface of the spindle where the wheel bearing sits.
Sometimes though, you gotta do what you can to get rusty parts off.
Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Great video brotha
Appreciate the feedback, glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Phenomenal vid!
Thanks for the kind words Sebrura, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
my bearing was corroded like crazy so I couldn't just hammer the bolts that holds the bearing to the knuckle. thankfully I bought a new hub as well with the new bearing so I took a breaker bar and a heavier hammer and beat at the old hub for a couple minutes. Eventually came loose
Yeah, I've heard stories of them being rusty and stuck pretty good. I guess it really depends on the climate where you are and what effect it has on the hub.
If you don't mind the additional expense, it's definitely easier to replace the hub/bearing assembly as one unit. Then you won't need to worry about getting the old bearing off the hub and pressing the new one on.
Thanks for the feedback and technique you used to get that rusty one out 👍
Cheers!
Yeah, I just ordered the hub and bearing assembly just to save me some headaches. 👍🏼
That will definitely save you some time and work. Good luck with your project, Cheers!
Nice video Brad, We want to work with you!
Thanks for the comments Erik, appreciate the feedback. What kind of work do you have in mind?
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I sent you info via social ins. we have a good tool for VW diagnosis.
@@BradleysGarage I am not sure if you can see my all comments
@@eriksony6398 Hey Erik, this is the only comment we have seen. Maybe YT did something with the others?
Let us know, Cheers!
Do you have a E & mail?
are the bolts really "single" use?
Hey Francis, yes unfortunately they are stretch bolts or TTY (Torque to Yield). That means after they are "stretched" they no longer have that torque value and will not be within factory specs.
Since they are relatively inexpensive, it is advised to get new ones when doing the wheel bearings. Most of the kits include the bolts already since they know they need to be replaced.
Good luck with your project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage THanks for the reply. I have found quite a few that are being sold without the bolts. I will make sure i get them.
what if my axle bolt is to rusty to be removed?
You can try Penetrating Spray like PB Blaster or Kroil. Apply it every few hours and let it soak in for a day.
Then you can heat it up with a propane torch, good and hot and then you should be able to break it free.
Keep in mind you might need a long cheater bar to get enough leverage. Also it may require 3/4" tools to have enough strength.
Good luck on your Audi project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
How many hours would one side take?
Hey Edgar, if you have access to all the tools you should be able to get the job done in a few hours. The first side will take a bit longer but then it will be much quicker on the second side since you know what to expect.
The hard part is how much difficulty you have remove the bearing assembly from the spindle. Depending on your climate and how much corrosion exists on the bearing, it may add some additional time removing it. Just spray it down with penetrating spray before you start removing everything and it should come out with minimal effort. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Great Job!!!!
Thanks Mark, appreciate the comment. 👍
How long did this whole method take you??
Hey KM, thanks for the question. The whole process will take about 2-3 hours depending on your experience level and your access to tools.
Good luck on your project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I was going to order the front passenger side wheel bearing assembly for my 2017 Audi A4 premium - question is are the front passenger and driver side wheel bearing / hub the same?
Hey KM, yes they are the same bearing on both the left and right side. Keep in mind since yours is a 2017 it's a B9 model which is very similar but not exactly the same as our video.
It looks like there are no aftermarket wheel bearing options for the B9 currently.
You will need to purchase them from Audi directly or an online reseller of OEM Audi parts.
Here is the part # 8W0-498-625
www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem-parts/audi-wheel-bearing-and-hub-assembly-8w0498625
The good news is it looks like it comes complete with the bearing and hub.
Good luck on your project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage What about the tourqe specifications - they should be the same right??
@@KM-yl4uy I haven't looked them up specifically but I would say they are the same as the B8/8.5 chassis. Cheers!
why do you need to press? Why can’t I just replace it?
Hey Casey, you definitely have the ability to replace the entire hub along with the bearing. That is just a more costly option if you don't have any of the appropriate tools at your disposal.
I think it's best to have a local machine shop press them on for you or try to utilize a vise to press them on.
It's looking increasingly difficult to locate any "entire hub" assemblies for sale right now.
The only one I could find is an off brand for the Quattro and even that's on backorder - www.ecstuning.com/b-gsp-north-america-parts/wheel-bearing-assembly-with-hub-priced-each/230005~gsp/
Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Really wish I watched this video prior to the others I've seen.
Sorry to hear that, hope you got some good ideas from our video. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
A hub and bearing assembly would be worth it if there are good quality ones sold that way.
Thanks for the comments, unfortunately they are sold separately with the hub and bearing in (2) pieces. There is typically nothing wrong with the hub unless the bearing was damaged for many miles and got overheated. We have been very happy with the FAG brand on many projects.
Good luck on your Audi project.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage yeah good to know I hate pressing bearings in and out if there's a one piece assembly that I can just bolt on that's a lot easier for a DIY job
@@m4gician We have seen some cheap aftermarket parts (1 piece) but none that we would feel comfortable running on our cars. Having to press the bearing on does require a little more work but at least you know you have quality products that will last another 150k.
Cheers!
Is it fairly easy to disconnect/reuse abs sensor when doing this job or should I not worry about disconnecting it? Ive got a 2014 A6 trying
Hey Kronik, apologies for the late response. It is very easy to either remove or just leave the ABS sensor in place while you remove the axle/hub assembly. Just take care when removing it and you should not have any issues. Good luck on your Audi project, Cheers!
Great video
Thanks Ron, glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage very helpful and not confusing at all you made it comprehensive.
Need help, my brake caliper wont slide off
You can use a flat tip screwdriver to pry against the pads/rotor in order to relieve the pressure from the pads. Just be careful not to damage the rotor.
Sometimes you can get a good angle by inserting the screwdriver or pry bar in the vented rotor and push against the carrier/caliper.
If your rotors are worn and have a lip on the outer edge it will make it more difficult. If that's the case, I would have no problem prying directly against the pads/rotors since the rotor will need to be replaced anyways.
Hope this helps with your project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage thanks for the help! Big hug
How come no one is replacing the rear bearing on a Quattro? Because its F'ing hard. Lol. I did mine. Now my speed sensor won't pickup. Driving me nuts.
Thanks for the comments UptownFights. The rears are definitely more challenging if you want to properly torque the bolts down.
There are some short cuts if you use a short triple square socket, but you won't be able to "torque" everything to spec. The good news is you don't have to remove any suspension parts at all to accomplish it.
We will post a video when we perform the rear wheel bearings to show the techniques. Cheers!
The disc screws just shear over time. Lay off the last chap or ladette😂
Thanks for the comments, that may happen as well but ours were stripped out from being overtightened. There is no need to crank it down that tight as it just simply holds the rotor in place so you can easily put the wheel on and start the lugs. The torqued down wheel keeps the rotor where it needs to be. You could get away with not even having the rotor stay bolt but it's a cheap easy replacement.
Cheers!
A shop quoted me $500 for each bearing, claiming each one takes 3 hours, gonna tackle this myself on my s4
Hey Penuji, is that $500 for the wheel bearing then an additional amount for the 3 hours labor? Even with these inflation prices the wheel bearing itself is only $105.99 currently so they are making some $$$.
We are confident you can get them done and save yourself a ton of cash. Even if you need to borrow or rent some tools, you will be much better in the long run. Let us know how your project goes, Cheers!
started on my first xzn bolt just now. Just got it stripped bcus its tightened and stuck by the hand of the devil. Now i wanna write a letter to VW and condemn them for making such a useless bolt.
Sorry to hear that Zilla, sometimes they are corroded and can be very difficult. Please try to heat the others with a torch (we use the Map-Pro, Yellow bottle as it burns a little hotter than the Blue propane) to help free them up before attempting to loosen.
For the one that is already stripped, I would recommend using a Dremel tool with a carbide disc and cut one or two lines on the backside of the bolt so you can use a hammer driver. You could also try to use a 4.5" cut off grinder as well but that's a little more dangerous.
Torch-
www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-Trigger-Start-Torch-Kit-TS4000KC/203368730
Hammer Driver-
www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE
You will need to remove the hub though to access the backside of the bolt using a slide hammer, which you should be able to rent from your local auto parts store.
Slide Hammer-
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/pulley---gear-rental-tools/338774872d18/rental-tools-evertough-slide-hammer/ren1/67031
Axle Puller-
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/brake--tire---wheel-rental-tools/749f067e140e/rental-tools-evertough-axle-puller/ren1/67030
If you have success by heating the others with a torch, then you should be able to loosen the stripped one by applying a good amount of heat before attempting the hammer driver approach.
Please be sure to remove the ABS sensor from the hub assembly though since it will not fair well with the excess heat.
Let us know how it goes, good luck on your project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Hey thanks alot for these instructions, that was really kind of you write all this up and not even being paid for it. It shows that you as a person have an unique form of kindness which there is not alot of these days.
Anyway, as i dont have all the tools and space to work, im just taking it to the shop and let the professionals handle it. Gives me a peace of mind. But thanks for the info.👍🏻
Appreciate the kind words Zilla, we always try to encourage people to roll their sleeves up and get dirty if they are comfortable. Sometimes it doesn't make sense but we share our thoughts on how we would attack it, in case you feel good.
Hopefully the shop is able to get you taken care without breaking the bank. They could also try to drill it out as well since it doesn't really matter if the threads get damaged.
The good news the new bearing comes with the new stretch bolts so you should have everything for the shop to get it done.
Let us know how it goes, Cheers!
good shit... tks
Glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Audi project.
Cheers!
lucky you. mine bearing is literally WELDED to hub 😭😭😭
Sorry to hear that you are having trouble with yours Vedran. Sometimes corrosion can build up and make things difficult. We soak them for 24 hours with Kroil Penetrating Oil and then heat them up with a propane torch to break them free.
Let us know what techniques work to get yours free. Cheers!
I tortured him for 2 days with a hammer, chisel, screwdrivers, WD40... I could not believe how hard the material was and with what strength the bearing was "welded" to the hub. I hit it in one corner so that it would start to spin and then it started to come off. I didn't have a torch. Literally an unreal situation. Thanks for support @@BradleysGarage 🤝
@vedran.z Glad to hear you got them out. I know they can be a pain if they are corroded in there.
You gotta pick up that torch to add to your garage collection. They come in handy quite often.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
I wish my hub came out that easily
Yes George, depending on the climate where you live, they can get pretty corroded. It takes penetrating spray and a torch to loosen it up. Cheers!
Oh ya. Just did one side. Now onto the other side.
Hey Faras, congrats on getting one side done. Glad to hear the video helped you out with your project. Good luck on the other side, Cheers!