Long story short, don’t take more apart.. it wasn’t any easier. Just need to remove the brakes (caliper & rotor) the axle bolt & the bearing itself. You need the low profile triple square dual drive sockets, torch & slide hammer to make the job easy. I took extra stuff apart in this video and the lower front wheel bearing bolt was still a pain to get to… but not if you just used the low profile sockets for the bottom anyway. No need to slot the bolts like I did but it might help to remove them if they are seized bad enough.
just did this job on my Q5, bolts sized solid, slotted the bolts just like you did but cut all the way to just short of the alloy hub then chiselled off half of the 4 earthen cut a slot deep into each ear closer to the bearing centre, chiselled off the small pieces still clinging to the bolts, and the bolts just fell out, a million thanks for your inspiration.
Thank you Jerry for your great work done replacing my pistons w/ wossner pistons on my Q5 in South Jersey. I'm 10k miles on it now and it runs great! I'd say as good as new. No smoking if you wondering.Had a small oil leak in the beginning but after I tightened nuts up on the level sensor it stopped, oil level is steady. BTW just used your technic and replaced wheel bearing - worked as a charm. Thanks again and keep up good work with your wonderful videos!
I was stupid enough to attempt to remove my damaged rear cv axle on a 2013 Audi S4. I said heck it can’t be that difficult, I have tools in my garage. I was wrong!! Almost two months later I’m still fighting with it. I didn’t get too far though, now i’m trying to put it back together and take it to a car shop. I love European cars and I used to love Audis, but I now hate working on them. They make everything so difficult. It should not be that difficult to change a cv axle. I appreciate you for sharing your experience and for putting together this video. You were eventually successful but this is too much work to change a bolt on part.
I hear ya... It took me 6 months to change the lower control arms... Couldn't pop the ball joint out then couldn't get the front lower control arm to line up enough to push the bolt through... Then couldn't get my torque wrench onto the lower rear control arm nut because mine has fuel lines in the way... They're a nightmare... But it's a lot easier with the right tools... It's lucky I don't really drive my car and I'm really just using it to learn on but still... Having triple square sockets in both long and short and stubby like the Mathews really really helps.
Thank you, have not done this job yet, looks like a pain in the ass, but you explain the choking hard points well and gave great tweaks and work arounds. Love the low profile tool you use to avoid taking spacer off.
Love your channel. Love the commentary as well. Gotta tackle rear bearings on my 2010 A4. You make it look easy. Just want you to know you’re appreciated!
To get leverage for my axle bolts I took the extension off of my floor jack lever and put that on my breaker bar. Same thing to get the 147whatever foot pounds plus 180°.
I don't need this yet but thank you so much, I've currently x2 audi and a toyota here, x3 cars with many bearings that could go wrong. You're audi technicians worst nightmare bro, make anything look doable even it looks a nightmare. Right order, correct tool and you're repaired. Keep it up man. If you can do it with one hand I'm sure I could do it with two or more 🫡
Those XZN bolts are a serious PITA to get access to. I ended up getting a slightly used knuckle for about the same price as a new wheel bearing. Much, much easier job. If I am ever to change wheel bearing rear on a Quattro again, I’d remove the drive axle. Then those XZN bolts are more accessible.
I tried this job the easy way like in video, to remove caliper bracket bolts without caliper. Snapped top bolt so screwed now. Bolt was moving and sprayed with penetration oil good and let it sit, but week bolt could not take torque bar. I would remove caliper so heat can be applied easy to top of knuckle/ bracket for an easier out without snapping anything. Bottom bolt came right out with same torque bar. 18m long and short socket used.
You should try cutting the bearing and the bolts parallel with the hub. You'll have enough space to use a cizel on the on the stubborn ones and the bolts just fall off.
My friend, in my experience those M12 spline/triple square, it's best to get a small breaker or straight on the back to initially break it's contact with he aluminium due to how corroded etc they can become. They are notorious for bending spanners/wrenches and also for breaking the bearings and gears in ratchets. They are supposed to torque to 40 foot lbs, however over time they end up essentially having closer to 80lbs on them unfortunately
Broke the longer caliper bolt head, wish I saw your other video of taking rotar off with caliper bridge in place. I would have started drilling from the front instead of taking the nuckle off to drill from the back.... figured it out but wasted a lot of time. Can't you do this job of replacing the bearing without removing the caliper bridge?
What slide hammer is that you used, and what weight is it? I found out it is an S&G Tool 66370 - S&G Tool Aid Front Wheel Hub and Rear Axle Slide Hammer Pullers. 10lb, just ordered one.
Great videos brother have u ever done and how upper timing chain tensioner on 3.0 supercharged b8 b8.5 asking if posible to doit without removing cats thx
I see a huge problem. If you were on the Giligans Island Show, It would have lasted only one season. After you built your smelting kiln, the SS Minnow would be running long enough to get the men back to safety. And you stayed behind to help the girls without Mrs. Howle. Now renamed "Naked and Not Afraid." Well played, I like how your brain works; once the snow melts off and the cold, wet ground dries up a bit, I'll take a shot at fixing my wife's t-boned right read on her Q5. So, what are the touch specs for the axil bog bolt?
It’s just what I had on the shelf & the first thing I grabbed, it’s primarily for brakes but I don’t typically put anything on brakes unless it’s inside the slide pin boots.
@@probohaha if you saw the short video where I put valve grinding compound in the tapered fitting of a ball joint so the stud wouldn’t spin, to put the nut on.. that was trolling for views and comments (got a few million views and a few thousand subscribers). In that short the pliers are all that was needed, I’ve seen you comment more than a few times so just making sure you know until the channel grows I’m doing some silly things to help the algorithm
I tried this today. Bottom bolts are such a bitch.. had to abandon ship. Gonna slice the bottom bolts. I put heat, barely did anything. Maybe it's needs more time and the slice on top of the bolts. Any suggestions for a half stripped bolt?
Naptown. need help I got a codes U010000, P0633, P060700. Would this be the ECU or a Relay problem? Transmission lost communication with ECM. car died while I was driving
I had a relay problem, similar codes. Had to pull ECU out to access the relays and swapped some similar ones around to find problems when different codes started showing were displayed. Narrowed down what relay was bad. Testing relays out of vehicle all tested good but one was bad once it had load on it.
Long story short, don’t take more apart.. it wasn’t any easier. Just need to remove the brakes (caliper & rotor) the axle bolt & the bearing itself. You need the low profile triple square dual drive sockets, torch & slide hammer to make the job easy. I took extra stuff apart in this video and the lower front wheel bearing bolt was still a pain to get to… but not if you just used the low profile sockets for the bottom anyway. No need to slot the bolts like I did but it might help to remove them if they are seized bad enough.
You're more appreciated than you know buddy. The love for you reaches Ireland 🇮🇪 on this end 👊
just did this job on my Q5, bolts sized solid, slotted the bolts just like you did but cut all the way to just short of the alloy hub then chiselled off half of the 4 earthen cut a slot deep into each ear closer to the bearing centre, chiselled off the small pieces still clinging to the bolts, and the bolts just fell out, a million thanks for your inspiration.
Thank you Jerry for your great work done replacing my pistons w/ wossner pistons on my Q5 in South Jersey. I'm 10k miles on it now and it runs great! I'd say as good as new. No smoking if you wondering.Had a small oil leak in the beginning but after I tightened nuts up on the level sensor it stopped, oil level is steady. BTW just used your technic and replaced wheel bearing - worked as a charm. Thanks again and keep up good work with your wonderful videos!
I was stupid enough to attempt to remove my damaged rear cv axle on a 2013 Audi S4. I said heck it can’t be that difficult, I have tools in my garage. I was wrong!! Almost two months later I’m still fighting with it. I didn’t get too far though, now i’m trying to put it back together and take it to a car shop. I love European cars and I used to love Audis, but I now hate working on them. They make everything so difficult. It should not be that difficult to change a cv axle. I appreciate you for sharing your experience and for putting together this video. You were eventually successful but this is too much work to change a bolt on part.
I hear ya... It took me 6 months to change the lower control arms... Couldn't pop the ball joint out then couldn't get the front lower control arm to line up enough to push the bolt through... Then couldn't get my torque wrench onto the lower rear control arm nut because mine has fuel lines in the way... They're a nightmare... But it's a lot easier with the right tools... It's lucky I don't really drive my car and I'm really just using it to learn on but still... Having triple square sockets in both long and short and stubby like the Mathews really really helps.
Thank you, have not done this job yet, looks like a pain in the ass, but you explain the choking hard points well and gave great tweaks and work arounds. Love the low profile tool you use to avoid taking spacer off.
Love your channel. Love the commentary as well. Gotta tackle rear bearings on my 2010 A4. You make it look easy. Just want you to know you’re appreciated!
To get leverage for my axle bolts I took the extension off of my floor jack lever and put that on my breaker bar. Same thing to get the 147whatever foot pounds plus 180°.
I don't need this yet but thank you so much, I've currently x2 audi and a toyota here, x3 cars with many bearings that could go wrong. You're audi technicians worst nightmare bro, make anything look doable even it looks a nightmare. Right order, correct tool and you're repaired. Keep it up man. If you can do it with one hand I'm sure I could do it with two or more 🫡
Those XZN bolts are a serious PITA to get access to. I ended up getting a slightly used knuckle for about the same price as a new wheel bearing. Much, much easier job. If I am ever to change wheel bearing rear on a Quattro again, I’d remove the drive axle. Then those XZN bolts are more accessible.
Harbor freight sells 1-3/4" long 1/2" impact extensions. You get a 4 pack with a comically small and large one for $10
Koken makes a 35mm 1/2 drive extension.. 4760/35 or wobble plus 4763/50 for 50mm
Also the knurling is freaking awesome
Crescent eshok guard 1/2 inch extension is impact rated and a little under 2 inches. Lowes clearance for $5 if they still have some.
I tried this job the easy way like in video, to remove caliper bracket bolts without caliper. Snapped top bolt so screwed now. Bolt was moving and sprayed with penetration oil good and let it sit, but week bolt could not take torque bar. I would remove caliper so heat can be applied easy to top of knuckle/ bracket for an easier out without snapping anything. Bottom bolt came right out with same torque bar. 18m long and short socket used.
Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom.
You should try cutting the bearing and the bolts parallel with the hub. You'll have enough space to use a cizel on the on the stubborn ones and the bolts just fall off.
My friend, in my experience those M12 spline/triple square, it's best to get a small breaker or straight on the back to initially break it's contact with he aluminium due to how corroded etc they can become. They are notorious for bending spanners/wrenches and also for breaking the bearings and gears in ratchets. They are supposed to torque to 40 foot lbs, however over time they end up essentially having closer to 80lbs on them unfortunately
I've broken 2 wrenches trying to get the last bolt out on my S4's wheel bearing 😅
I'm now on day 5 of this 2 hour job
I have 3 sets of Mayhew sockets hex/torx/triple, i love it
The Pittsburgh long impact 18mm is longer than your socket and dont need extension for thet bottom bolt on bracket.
Broke the longer caliper bolt head, wish I saw your other video of taking rotar off with caliper bridge in place. I would have started drilling from the front instead of taking the nuckle off to drill from the back.... figured it out but wasted a lot of time. Can't you do this job of replacing the bearing without removing the caliper bridge?
Your the man!! Can you do a video on an Audi Q3 8U cooling fan replacement 🙏🏼💯
What slide hammer is that you used, and what weight is it? I found out it is an S&G Tool 66370 - S&G Tool Aid Front Wheel Hub and Rear Axle Slide Hammer Pullers. 10lb, just ordered one.
Great videos brother have u ever done and how upper timing chain tensioner on 3.0 supercharged b8 b8.5 asking if posible to doit without removing cats thx
Excellent video
fun to watch, cheers
I see a huge problem. If you were on the Giligans Island Show, It would have lasted only one season. After you built your smelting kiln, the SS Minnow would be running long enough to get the men back to safety. And you stayed behind to help the girls without Mrs. Howle. Now renamed "Naked and Not Afraid." Well played, I like how your brain works; once the snow melts off and the cold, wet ground dries up a bit, I'll take a shot at fixing my wife's t-boned right read on her Q5. So, what are the touch specs for the axil bog bolt?
Bro those wheel bearings are torqued pretty high from factory and they’re TTY so they’re stretched in there and tight I can’t remember the spec.
@naptowntuner do you still have a shop? How do I contact you locally?
I subscribed. I know, big deal. But u r one super tech!!!
Was the alignment off when u took the sleeve off ?
There’s a spider on your jacket.. 😁😁
Naptown, What is the purpose of the ceramic paste?
It’s just what I had on the shelf & the first thing I grabbed, it’s primarily for brakes but I don’t typically put anything on brakes unless it’s inside the slide pin boots.
@@NaptownTuner
I thought it was like a lapping compound add grit to thread to clean the threads or something…
@@probohaha if you saw the short video where I put valve grinding compound in the tapered fitting of a ball joint so the stud wouldn’t spin, to put the nut on.. that was trolling for views and comments (got a few million views and a few thousand subscribers). In that short the pliers are all that was needed, I’ve seen you comment more than a few times so just making sure you know until the channel grows I’m doing some silly things to help the algorithm
Thanks for sharing
Brutal!😨
I tried this today. Bottom bolts are such a bitch.. had to abandon ship. Gonna slice the bottom bolts. I put heat, barely did anything. Maybe it's needs more time and the slice on top of the bolts. Any suggestions for a half stripped bolt?
My hands and back are very sore too 😂
We need merchandise
Everything is a pry bar or a hammer 👊🏻
Das spitzen popzen bangen farten tanken needs the crusher heapocrap
Naptown. need help I got a codes U010000, P0633, P060700. Would this be the ECU or a Relay problem? Transmission lost communication with ECM. car died while I was driving
I had a relay problem, similar codes. Had to pull ECU out to access the relays and swapped some similar ones around to find problems when different codes started showing were displayed. Narrowed down what relay was bad. Testing relays out of vehicle all tested good but one was bad once it had load on it.