I had a go at it today but I couldn't get to the lower front bolt as the CV joint was in the way🫣. I only had the spline set the 17mm allen socket and the basic required tools to complete this job the same way you did it. Looks like my mechanic will have to lower the bottom arm and pull it outwards & away from the CV to get clearer access. I'm devastated that I couldn't do it. My vehicle is the A6 C6 & it must have a bigger CV joint than the Q5. The hub bearing is an identical part on the A6 & Q5. Still a great video & explanation.
@@grahamshillingford8229 They are different CV axles, 2012 shares the same axle with the 2015 Q5. I wonder if you could just unbolt the two upper control arms from the wheel bearing housing then tilt the housing forward to move the CV axle out of the way?
@@mookie17ful I recommend getting a quote from a local shop. That will be a more accurate price for your location. If you feel they are charging too much you can always shop around. Always go with a shop that has a good reputation.
if you are going to use a hammer to get hub out - don't hit where the lugs go, you'll smash the holes. Better to use a slide hammer or hit the bolts from the back. If you are in the rust belt...have a shop do it.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I hear ya, problem is if you can't get the hub/bearing out and smashed the lug holes...cant put it back together to get it to a shop.
@@richrottier That's true, once you start this job you're committed. The good thing is it's an aluminum knuckle. So hopefully even the worst bearing won't be too seized.
Spindle nut torque: 148 lb.ft plus 180 degrees
One of the best instructional videos I have seen. Clear, great footage and easily explained. You got a new sub...
@@marcelmallory2761 Thanks! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
By far the best example of how to fo this job... I'm doing one of my hubs in the next couple of days.
Thank you
@@grahamshillingford8229 Your welcome! Glad this video is helpful. If you have any questions feel free to add it in the comments 👍
I had a go at it today but I couldn't get to the lower front bolt as the CV joint was in the way🫣. I only had the spline set the 17mm allen socket and the basic required tools to complete this job the same way you did it. Looks like my mechanic will have to lower the bottom arm and pull it outwards & away from the CV to get clearer access. I'm devastated that I couldn't do it. My vehicle is the A6 C6 & it must have a bigger CV joint than the Q5. The hub bearing is an identical part on the A6 & Q5.
Still a great video & explanation.
@@grahamshillingford8229 What year is yours? I can look up repair info to see if there is a difference in replacement.
2011 A6 C6 4F, European, I'm in the UK. It's one of the last to be built of that particular model.
@@grahamshillingford8229 They are different CV axles, 2012 shares the same axle with the 2015 Q5. I wonder if you could just unbolt the two upper control arms from the wheel bearing housing then tilt the housing forward to move the CV axle out of the way?
One of the best explained DIY videos on UA-cam!
@@miked166 Glad this video was helpful 🙂
Very well explained!!
Thanks, well done except you forgot the note on the axle nut 148 ft lbs plus 180 degrees note 622
I just did this job and i did 200nm plus like 90 degrees. I thought i was gonna break the bolt going the whole 180 degrees.
The best one ever. Thank you so much.
@@davej6859 Thanks! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
4 countersunk bolts are stretch bolts so have to be renewed, not replacing the old bolts there is a chance that they can shear overtime
@@geoffreyedmundson9928 I wish the new parts would come with new bolts.
best video ever :D
@@fabiancamiloruizespana9479 Thanks! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
no thorx?
How much should replacing front bearings on a 2010 q5 3.2 job cost ?
@@mookie17ful I recommend getting a quote from a local shop. That will be a more accurate price for your location. If you feel they are charging too much you can always shop around. Always go with a shop that has a good reputation.
Mate next time just almost unscrew the bolts and tap it the bolts from behind this is the corect way and safe to remove it 🎉🎉🎉
@@Geo94is Thanks for the tip! 👍
if you are going to use a hammer to get hub out - don't hit where the lugs go, you'll smash the holes. Better to use a slide hammer or hit the bolts from the back. If you are in the rust belt...have a shop do it.
@@richrottier That's why I like purchasing a new hub with the bearing. Then you don't need to worry about damaging the hub 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I hear ya, problem is if you can't get the hub/bearing out and smashed the lug holes...cant put it back together to get it to a shop.
@@richrottier That's true, once you start this job you're committed. The good thing is it's an aluminum knuckle. So hopefully even the worst bearing won't be too seized.
Are you Chrisfix ?
I like to put my 90° mark on the outer threaded end of the bolts so i dont hit my head having to look at the bolt head lol
@@IrishPikeHunter Great idea! Thanks for the tip! My head will have less bruises from now on 😂