Shops looking busy! Might have to check that out on mine. Just had DAP Repair do a thermostat /water pump housing replacement and carbon cleaning like a week or so ago. Started with a slow leak, and within a month, I had to refill every time I drove it. Just hit 102k miles Been a minute since we've met up. Hit a brother up. Got a ESAB emp 205ci to get some work done on some golf carts at a shop I've been working at.
Yeah man I’ve been keeping busy. Glad to hear you’ve still got the Mk7 & doing some welding! I’ll have more normal hours starting soon so shop hangs will be easier to fit in
‘17 DSG with PP + ECU/TCU stage 1 Been having tapping noise and misfires + poor performance off and on. Might’ve narrowed it down to a stuck/bad lifter, but I’m wondering what would’ve cause it to become problematic in the first place. Is it possible a failing PCV could’ve led to oil contamination and fouled up the lifters? Trying to figure out before giving into the stealership
My car is at 80k miles. I have the oil weeping issues like you mentioned in the video. Also had a little bit of oil on one of my spark plugs. I also have misfires on cylinder 2 at idle. If I unplug the N80 valve that is connected to the PCV the misfires go away. I’m thinking the PCV is the issue.
Read somewhere that a possible sign of a bad pcv could be an oil leak Only saying because I recently had a small oil leak coming from my OE last oil pan so I replaced with a steel one and used a dry gasket but now I just have the same problem after replacing Is it possible a bad pcv is causing high pressure and making the leak still happen
I talk about it in this video, the most common crank case pressure induced leak would be at the oil cap (which can run down and be misdiagnosed as something like the oil pan)
Did the car ever have blue smoke on startup? It’s an issue I’m having with mine and it looks like I may have some seepage around the valve cover as well. Trying to narrow it down.
Yes, it started around 80-90k ish. Unfortunately blue smoke (oil burning) on cold start has absolutely nothing to do with external leaks or PCV issues. Being a spicy economy car, VW used inferior valve guide seals. The oil leaks past them on higher mileage MQB and burns off on cold start. Luckily, it’s such a small amount of oil even at 140k+ it doesn’t add up to a significant amount over my 7k oil change interval, but it is annoying & can only really be fixed with new bronze valve guides/seals (upgraded from OEM)
@@BaunPerformance Wow definitely one of the most helpful comments I’ve ever received on a post. Thank you! But also I’m definitely not a mechanic so I’m curious… if a bad PCV leads to external leaks due to over pressurization, why could it not cause internal leaks? Again just curious since your first explanation clearly shows you know what you’re talking about. Thanks again!
Hey Jake, what kind of plugs do you use? I have a mk7 gti with a stage 2 tune. I was looking at the Denso 5749s. Seems like I read that EQT recommended those.
I run the Beru RS7 plugs everyone swears will snap off and blow up your engine. Been running them for over 100k miles, and just ordered another set this morning (10k intervals). You can run any plug you’d like, so long as you don’t gap ones that aren’t made to be gapped, don’t melt them off doing a 45 min WOT pull, don’t drop them on the floor before installing, don’t run them for over 10k miles…basically don’t be an idiot & you can run whatever flavor you or your tuner recommends
You can power wash the engine while it’s running? Cover up all electronic connectors? Great video as always. I have a lot of seepage thru cam bridge and oil on all of my plugs at 61k. I should change pcv correct? And my cam side has terrible seepage. Car runs great and doesn’t burn a drop of oil. 2015 gti 2dr
I didn’t cover anything, but also didn’t go crazy with it either. You can see my results (124,500 mile 2016 purchased new in December 2015) just be careful or if you’re not comfortable this might be a good opportunity/excuse to have the car professionally detailed (including under the hood, the pros will make it look like new). You’re car sounds like a good candidate for PCV replacement
Lasted 120k +, hopefully this next one will too! So many people jump ship to a catch can & create issues rather than solving them (but that’s another video for later).
I saw a video that says if you remove the oil cap when it’s running and it pulls a strong vacuum / upsets the cars idle substantially then the PCV is bad. Is that accurate? I tried it on my car and it seems to respond just as described above and I have been chasing a cyl4 misfire for a few weeks now. I’ve changed plugs, coils, had intake valve carbon cleaning done, etc so I’m thinking maybe PCV at this point
ANY time you remove the oil cap with it running it’ll chase idle and run like crap. If you remove the cap and there’s no change (it was already running absolutely horribly) then the PCV is completely failed or you otherwise have a unwanted vent to atmosphere. Whoever gave that advice not only had it backwards, but also missed that a PCV doesn’t have to be completely imploded like that to be considered bad/requiring replacement.
Also, highly unlikely PVC issues would effect cylinder 4 misfiring. Fuel, spark, compression & timing. You’ve already addressed spark, so how did the plug you removed look on that cylinder? Wet with oil? Could need to do a compression test. Wet with fuel? Probably a bad injector.
@@BaunPerformance thanks for the reply! I pulled the plug (all four actually) and they all seemed pretty consistently “normal”. Not wet, not caked with carbon/junk, no oil, and gapped to spec. As I mentioned, I moved coil packs around and The misfire stayed with the cylinder. I’ve also just moved plugs around and the issue still stays with the cylinder. I think he may be onto something with the injector/fueling. I had the intake carbon cleaning process done about a month back where I also had the fuel injectors, proactively replaced as I was told they build up with carbon/gunk too. All for our brand new OEM injectors but I suppose it’s not impossible for one of those to be dead on arrival.
@@zeRaxx I did end up trying the PCV since it had 90k miles on it anyway. It didn't resolve the misfire issue. Unfortunately I don't have much more meaningful data to contribute; I got tired of chasing the issue and traded the car in for a newer GTI. Problem solved 😃. Only regret was not trading it before I dumped all the money into a new clutch, carbon cleaning, injectors, coils, coil wire kit, etc.
@@BaunPerformance i don't see any symptoms of the pcv going bad at least as far as i know but i have a sippage even after changing the RMS. Im thinking its the upper timing cover gasket?
@@pharaohabaddon342 changed the upper timing car since its pretty easy to do, still having minor sippage. havent really put effort into figuring it out.
Shops looking busy! Might have to check that out on mine. Just had DAP Repair do a thermostat /water pump housing replacement and carbon cleaning like a week or so ago.
Started with a slow leak, and within a month, I had to refill every time I drove it.
Just hit 102k miles
Been a minute since we've met up. Hit a brother up. Got a ESAB emp 205ci to get some work done on some golf carts at a shop I've been working at.
Yeah man I’ve been keeping busy. Glad to hear you’ve still got the Mk7 & doing some welding! I’ll have more normal hours starting soon so shop hangs will be easier to fit in
‘17 DSG with PP + ECU/TCU stage 1
Been having tapping noise and misfires + poor performance off and on. Might’ve narrowed it down to a stuck/bad lifter, but I’m wondering what would’ve cause it to become problematic in the first place. Is it possible a failing PCV could’ve led to oil contamination and fouled up the lifters? Trying to figure out before giving into the stealership
Check your cam magnets
My car is at 80k miles. I have the oil weeping issues like you mentioned in the video. Also had a little bit of oil on one of my spark plugs. I also have misfires on cylinder 2 at idle. If I unplug the N80 valve that is connected to the PCV the misfires go away. I’m thinking the PCV is the issue.
Sounds like you’ve got it!
@@BaunPerformance I installed the MK8 PCV retrofit with the full Venturi. So far so good!
Read somewhere that a possible sign of a bad pcv could be an oil leak
Only saying because I recently had a small oil leak coming from my OE last oil pan so I replaced with a steel one and used a dry gasket but now I just have the same problem after replacing
Is it possible a bad pcv is causing high pressure and making the leak still happen
I talk about it in this video, the most common crank case pressure induced leak would be at the oil cap (which can run down and be misdiagnosed as something like the oil pan)
@@BaunPerformance really hope it ends up being it coming from the oil cap and just replace the pvc
That’d be so much better
Can you share more info about the oil cap/ breather filter you have there?
Here’s the link to the video I did on it a while back!
ua-cam.com/video/P_K2gqYjYhY/v-deo.html
Did you buy the OEM or an aftermarket from Fcp euro? Also did it resolve your leakage issues? Specifically in cylinder 3 & 4?
OEM, and yes it did (although seepage isn’t as bad as a leak it did fix it).
Did the car ever have blue smoke on startup? It’s an issue I’m having with mine and it looks like I may have some seepage around the valve cover as well. Trying to narrow it down.
Yes, it started around 80-90k ish. Unfortunately blue smoke (oil burning) on cold start has absolutely nothing to do with external leaks or PCV issues.
Being a spicy economy car, VW used inferior valve guide seals. The oil leaks past them on higher mileage MQB and burns off on cold start.
Luckily, it’s such a small amount of oil even at 140k+ it doesn’t add up to a significant amount over my 7k oil change interval, but it is annoying & can only really be fixed with new bronze valve guides/seals (upgraded from OEM)
@@BaunPerformance Wow definitely one of the most helpful comments I’ve ever received on a post. Thank you!
But also I’m definitely not a mechanic so I’m curious… if a bad PCV leads to external leaks due to over pressurization, why could it not cause internal leaks? Again just curious since your first explanation clearly shows you know what you’re talking about. Thanks again!
@@BaunPerformance also would you recommend using liquimoly oil saver if it is the valve guide seals?
My 2020 mk7.5 GTI PCV went at 24k lol. Probably why VW revised the PCV for the mk8.
I’ve got them brand new from VW bad from stock, sometimes they’ve got manufacturing defects
Hey Jake, what kind of plugs do you use? I have a mk7 gti with a stage 2 tune. I was looking at the Denso 5749s. Seems like I read that EQT recommended those.
I run the Beru RS7 plugs everyone swears will snap off and blow up your engine. Been running them for over 100k miles, and just ordered another set this morning (10k intervals).
You can run any plug you’d like, so long as you don’t gap ones that aren’t made to be gapped, don’t melt them off doing a 45 min WOT pull, don’t drop them on the floor before installing, don’t run them for over 10k miles…basically don’t be an idiot & you can run whatever flavor you or your tuner recommends
@@BaunPerformance Thanks for the info Jake. I value your opinion.
Did it solve the seepage problem? Starting to see the same thing happen on my a3
Yes! It was a good fix, no further seepage after it was cleaned up and swapped
You can power wash the engine while it’s running? Cover up all electronic connectors? Great video as always. I have a lot of seepage thru cam bridge and oil on all of my plugs at 61k. I should change pcv correct? And my cam side has terrible seepage. Car runs great and doesn’t burn a drop of oil. 2015 gti 2dr
I didn’t cover anything, but also didn’t go crazy with it either. You can see my results (124,500 mile 2016 purchased new in December 2015) just be careful or if you’re not comfortable this might be a good opportunity/excuse to have the car professionally detailed (including under the hood, the pros will make it look like new).
You’re car sounds like a good candidate for PCV replacement
@@jakebaun8422 thank you for advice sir
You were smart to replace with the original PCV design.
Lasted 120k +, hopefully this next one will too!
So many people jump ship to a catch can & create issues rather than solving them (but that’s another video for later).
I saw a video that says if you remove the oil cap when it’s running and it pulls a strong vacuum / upsets the cars idle substantially then the PCV is bad. Is that accurate? I tried it on my car and it seems to respond just as described above and I have been chasing a cyl4 misfire for a few weeks now. I’ve changed plugs, coils, had intake valve carbon cleaning done, etc so I’m thinking maybe PCV at this point
ANY time you remove the oil cap with it running it’ll chase idle and run like crap.
If you remove the cap and there’s no change (it was already running absolutely horribly) then the PCV is completely failed or you otherwise have a unwanted vent to atmosphere.
Whoever gave that advice not only had it backwards, but also missed that a PCV doesn’t have to be completely imploded like that to be considered bad/requiring replacement.
Also, highly unlikely PVC issues would effect cylinder 4 misfiring.
Fuel, spark, compression & timing.
You’ve already addressed spark, so how did the plug you removed look on that cylinder?
Wet with oil? Could need to do a compression test.
Wet with fuel? Probably a bad injector.
@@BaunPerformance thanks for the reply! I pulled the plug (all four actually) and they all seemed pretty consistently “normal”. Not wet, not caked with carbon/junk, no oil, and gapped to spec. As I mentioned, I moved coil packs around and The misfire stayed with the cylinder. I’ve also just moved plugs around and the issue still stays with the cylinder. I think he may be onto something with the injector/fueling. I had the intake carbon cleaning process done about a month back where I also had the fuel injectors, proactively replaced as I was told they build up with carbon/gunk too. All for our brand new OEM injectors but I suppose it’s not impossible for one of those to be dead on arrival.
@@BrandonLanczak Did you end up fixing your misfire or did you replace your PCV?
@@zeRaxx I did end up trying the PCV since it had 90k miles on it anyway. It didn't resolve the misfire issue. Unfortunately I don't have much more meaningful data to contribute; I got tired of chasing the issue and traded the car in for a newer GTI. Problem solved 😃. Only regret was not trading it before I dumped all the money into a new clutch, carbon cleaning, injectors, coils, coil wire kit, etc.
did the oil leaks stop after you changed the PCV ?
Yes, although it was just seeping originally. If it’s bad enough to leak leak you’ll be resealing that part.
@@BaunPerformance i don't see any symptoms of the pcv going bad at least as far as i know but i have a sippage even after changing the RMS. Im thinking its the upper timing cover gasket?
@@stasKZdid u ever figure things out on your car ???
@@pharaohabaddon342 changed the upper timing car since its pretty easy to do, still having minor sippage. havent really put effort into figuring it out.