Thanks so much for watching! Here are some of the links we mentioned. OBDeleven Next Gen (iOS and Android) Pro www.shopdap.com/nextgen-obdeleven-ios-android-vw-audi-scantool.html MK7 Intake Cam Replacement Kit www.shopdap.com/intake-camshaft-replacement-kit.html 2.0t TSI Timing Chain Special Tool Kit www.shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/tools/20t-tsi-timing-chain-special-tool-install-kit.html T10355 Crank Holder Tool www.shopdap.com/1-2-drive-crank-counter-hold-tool-for-vw-t10355-wkz-t10355.html Gen 3 Spool Valve Socket (V2) www.shopdap.com/spool-valve-removal-socket-for-t10352-2.html Gen 3 Spool Valve Socket (V4) www.shopdap.com/spool-valve-removal-socket-t10352-4-for-gen-3-1-8t-and-2-0t.html Tensioner Adjustment Lever for VW T40243 www.shopdap.com/tensioner-adjustment-lever-for-vw-t40243-wkz-t40243.html
I contacted Charles a few years ago about this very issue on an MK6 Jetta 1.8t about him making a video about this issue, but he never responded to my messages. Thank you, Paul and keep up the good work!
these cars burn more oil than gas! the dealer tells you its normal that it consumes 1l every 1k km. funny cuz my camry v6 doesnt miss a drop od oil after 5k km.
Pro tip to make installing the cam cage easier: find some long bolts with the same thread/pitch as two of the stock screws that secure it to the engine and cut the heads off. Insert these long bolts so that they’re effectively studs. Use these studs to perfectly line up the cam cage to guarantee that your sealant gets sandwiched in place perfectly with zero lateral movement. Insert hardware, remove studs, and off you go.
Hi, Audi tech here. We get cars rolling in with this problem pretty often. We never replace the camshaft tho we just replace the plungers and the magnets. This solves the problem. Just replaced them on a Golf R this saturday and it's running like new.
Ford tech here, so im no stranger to vct issues lol, my S3 at idle sometimes (not all times) the RPMs start jumping almost like i have a old school cammed out v8. once i start driving its fine and then it goes away at the next stop. have a p0011 code. was going to just replace the solenoid until i saw this. thoughts?
im having this issue right now and we have unplugged both phasers and change the valve spool and the ticking noise still persists. should i assume its the intake cam or replace both phasers and see then
Very good video and makes the point of OIL LEVEL! However, the noise, usually on start up, or while running, indicated the failed camshaft adjuster unit as stated. The "hunting" value block is 99% of the time caused by the magnet itself sticking due to sludged oil stuck in the solenoid plunger from the car being ran low on oil or infrequent oil changes. If you have the faults with a hunting idle and value block, replace the magnet.
changed magents 4 times in the lifetime of my mk7 gti. then finally the one valve decided to come apart. Have not had issues for a good few KM but just upgraded to a 7.5Gti. Sticking with the Gen3 engine with all the issues Ive had. I will always check oil !
BMW B series engines have the same design of solenoid and seem to experience the same issue with sticking, causing poor idle quality and bad drivability.
I change my oil every 5000km or 6000km and the plunger still got stuck and failed and left me fucking stranded in a parking lot. This has nothing to do with infrequent oil changes its just terrible design by VW.
I had a similar issue with hunting, but it was just because the cam magnet was bad! The old owner didn’t keep up with oil changes so it got junked up and couldn’t move properly. New cam magnet installed (just takes a couple of minutes) and now the specified and actual values are within 0.5 of each other 🎉
I had this issue in my 2016 R. The screen on the oil control valve was ripped. Lucky no debris caused damage. Oil level was fine. I am now considering this a consumable part and will be changing them every 100,000 km's no matter what. The part isn't very expensive and once you have the proper tool to change them it takes about the same amount of time as an oil change. I see lots of posts on the Facebook Groups about people having this issue.
I was told the 2016 had the oil valve integrated, thus the removal of the entire intake camshaft. I also have a 2016 R with the tapping sound that goes away when unplugging the cam magnet. Are you saying I won't need to pull the entire camshaft?
We’ve seen this issues several times now on both 1.8 and 2.0 engines at our shop. Not super common but definitely something to keep an eye out for if you’ve got timing faults.
Worth properly diagnosing too. I had the exact faults that Paul had, but in my 2009 Tiguan. Assumed it was the timing chain, but after teardown, I realized the chain & tensioner was actually good and was updated. With some digging I found that my intake cam had gone bad too. Interesting to see this never got fixed on these updated engines.
@@e0nema0tak1v its possible but I believe my stuff went bad due to balance shaft failure and the oil screens blowing oil causing metal shrapnel to score small bearing surfaces and clog oil galleries. Fairly well documented on TSI's. Great engines, but man they can fail in many catastrophic ways.
Years ago a friend in the 90’s had a Passat, and he always had the maintenance up to date. However the engine grenades due to an old timing belt. Dealership was going to charge him for repairs until he took out his owners maintenance log and the dealership had stamped that he had gotten the timing belt replaced 😊. They had charged for the work but never did it 😮
I've experience the electronic magnet nipple that actuates the cam adjustment valve sticking too. Causing same faults. A nice easy check before going to the full camshaft
So just completed this job on my A4 with Gen3 motor - just wanted to say thanks for the video as it was spot on with the problem i had with my car. replaced both Exhaust and Intake cams (both had scoring on the snout part) with new spool valves, adjusters and timing kit at the same time. cars runs like new now - :) Thanks again
I changed my pan now its half a quart 2500miles. It is very loud in when i start guessing need new magnet as one of the guy stated above in comments. Man can’t afford a camshaft labor gonna be hella expensive just spent 1500$ on water pump n carbon cleaning 😅
Love the detailed specs and the obd11 screenshots. Please continue doing this so we can learn how to diagnose ourselves if we have the app. Thank You!!
The plunger(spoolvalve) in the center of the camshaft actually failed on my ‘13 mk7 gti, Causing it to sound a TDI. It did have oil in the engine though😂. Replacing the plunger fixed the problem and prevented from buying a whole new camshaft. This was around 140k km’s. Fun to see how this whole part work, keep up the informative videos!
Hello, any chance you can add me on some sort of other social media so I can send you a video of what mine sounds like so you can tell me wether it was the same as yours. Had this issue for ages now and it’s stressing me out as no one can diagnose it
VW tech here: To know if its the N205 valve, first unplug it to see if the sound and characteristics of the engine changes, if it does then you have a bad valve. To confirm further, remove the valve and check the plunger/nipple . If the punger/nipple shows any resistance in moving in/out, the valve is bad and needs replacement. PS. Make sure you have OIL IN IT!!! 😂 GL!
Can confirm. My S3 is on it's third (inlet) camshaft. It's freakishly well serviced, getting oilchanges ~4-5k km yearly. My problems were. 1st time: -strange throttle response. Sometimes more, sometimes less power than expected. Second time it was replaced because second one failed immediately. Third change was because I heard the ticking noise. Oil got pushed out the seal (and in the connector). This is pretty common said the (experienced) Audi technician. Timing chain was also replaced. Stretching of the chain seems to have a lot to do with failure on the cams.
Exact thing that happened to my GF's GLI even down to the sound. VW diagnosed it 100 miles out of warranty but ended up covering it under good will. The sound was very apparent inside and outside of the car.
Did they give you a cost for the repair? I'm out of warranty and I fear this is my problem currently. Just looking to get an idea of how much pain I'm about to be in
@@f2tzoomzoomI don't remember the exact number but it was not cheap, like $2500+, but understand that was the dealer. I'm sure an independent shop would have cut that price significantly. The price was why we kept pushing for it to be covered, we had to get VW corporate involved, but it worked. Good luck!
I had exactly the same noise on my 2011 1.8tfsi ... replaced the timing chain & tentioner, replaced all the surrounding sensors... the noise never went away, so this was the very last thing left to replace... at least now I know this will definitely fix it...
I had the cam adjustment magnets replaced in mine 2 weeks ago, the car seemed like it was a bit noisy (similar to the noise in your video) and the car was idling a bit rough (not enough to be overly concerned) the car has a full service history and I top the oil up about once a month (mine likes to drink a lot) unfortunately, the thing died at the side of the road and couldn't be restarted. Ironically, it died on its way to the mechanic (not the dealer but a very good local European car specialist) Not a cheap repair but the car drives fantastic now. I am glad I didn't need full cam shaft replacement and that the magnets were the only thing that needed replacing. Car had 155,000km (about 96,000mi) when it finally went.
I'm probably older than most of you guys and as a rule of thumb, you should check your oil level weekly, i've been doin' it from i was a teenager advised by the elders. Nowadays epecially cars of today with a turbo!
I just had my rear upper break light resealed as that was letting water in. Oh and also the pressure vents behind the rear bumper. Still got water on my rear right door sill after resealing speaker seals and clearing drainage pipe in door. Not sure what it can be now
Very informative video! I just did the timing assembly on my mk5 a few days ago and wondered what was behind that intake cam sprocket.. duhh of course it’s the phase adjustment. But beyond that, when performing the work I heard some interesting noises and seen some weird things with this motor. I’m glad I get to see another expert explain the full function in detail
Its nice to see this video because I had this same problem with my gti and it is in the shop right now being fixed, (its been there for 3 months) something to look out for is that this problem shares a lot of symptoms with other problems so just look out for that if you have this same issue
I just had to change the camshaft magnet on my S3 because I kept getting Camshaft timing over advanced error codes and check engine lights. The part was super cheap and replacing it is easy. Doing this also smoothed out throttle response and improved MPGs. No need to replace the camshaft as the adjuster and magnet itself was the culprit. Always start with the cheap and easy work first to see if that fixes your issue. Replacing Cams should be a last resort if everything else doesn't fix it. For good measure, I checked the valve solenoid to ensure there were no issues with the part itself, gave it a brake fluid bath, and reinstalled it. All good now for the last couple thousand miles.
I had the same on my golf R VW said it was the chain so had it changed (1k+) however fault was still there so I changed the cam adjuster sensor and it worked fine😅
@@RetroTubing Yeah man; mechanically these cars are rock solid. It's the damn electronics that cause all the glitches. You've got to be on top of your battery to make sure you don't get phantom codes and then also things like this, where small parts go bad (that are thankfully cheap). Everyone who owns one of these cars owes it to themselves to spend the $35 bucks to get access to the Audi Erwin database and download all the PDF's for their vehicle. It'll pay for itself by thousands of dollars over and over in savings for stupid, poorly diagnosed issues from those not in the know
My MK7.5 started drinking oil at 6k miles, dealers just kept saying it was "Normal", had to drive around with oil because the "Check oil level" light kept coming on. Then she started knock, knock, knockin' when i was in the McDonalds drive-thru. Needless to say, I sold it back to the dealer with 10k miles on it.
i've had this issue on my '14 mk7 gti on idle exclusively and replacing the spool valve on admission camshaft solved it. I've had 20k km since then, never heard it.
I knew from the very beginning to change oil way more often than the dealer says, and use the OEM oil filter with the specified oil. Engine will last a long time, even if it’s being driven hard
I agree...I bought my MK7 brand new and only drove maybe 8000-10000KM per year (and that kilometers) and I changed mine twice a year still. I did the intake service too once a year until I sold it. It didn't burn a drop of oil and didn't give me problems. That extra maintenance was so easy and I felt good about selling it knowing I'd done what I can to prolong it's life
Had the exact problem, was chasng the cause of it for about a year and half. Problem with my car wasnt in oil starvation, but worned out magnets and camshaft actuators. They were completely blocked. After putting new ones, the sound mentioned in the video showed after 5k km. After replacing them with the new ones, the sound was gone, but car was losing oil pressure at about 3k rpm and went into limp mode when warm oil. Oil pressure test showed everything was fine. Then after a year, low oil pressure warning came up. I found that the camshafts were losing presure in cambridge. New cambridge and camshafts, but then the turbo blew. Hopefully everything is ok now
My U.K. car is a 20l5 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 diesel which may be a big issue in time is the double overhead camshafts area chain driven which is at the rear of the engine so fun and games if it needs replaceing
I had a similar problem but the timing jitter was around 3-4 degrees. Replacing just the electromagnet fixed it. Even after cleaning the push pin, it still moves roughly on the bench (I use a variable power supply). The push pin was just worn out. It holds to 0.5 degrees now.
We had the problem on the GTI, but it was the solenoid that caused it. started to stutter like a maniac. noone thought this would fail at 40k miles so it wasnt the first thing to be changed in the end. Killed the timing chain in the process.
I have a 2016 VW GLI with 140K miles on the clock now. The only two things that ever broke were the clockspring and a single rear ABS sensor, both of which the VAG is obviously unable to fix. Otherwisely, at this time the oil consumption is 1 Qt per 4K miles and everything else is as good as new. I've been changing the oil every 5K since day one, OEM, and it seemed to have done the trick. I'm still to decarb the car for the very first time, just as a preventative measure, no misfires or anything like that.
I change the oil every 5K in my 2018 Golf 1.8 TSI Gen 3. Also check it frequently. After 75K, no problems and no oil use. If you are obsessive about performing all maintenance on your VW you should have no problems. If not, expect big problems.
Yes and No... they are no Toyotas that changing the oil will save you from a auto shop repair bill once past 100k. If it is DSG, there is no way around replacing the flywheel at high miles, the water pump, coil packs, oil pump, wheel bearings are normal tear and wear in the 100k to 200k mile range. A Toyota can go 300k and maybe need a new water pump or a bad bearing tensioner as long as oil changes are made, something that cannot achieved by VW if doing the same.
I’ve allready changed both on my GTI 😂 first the admission one and after 40k kms de exhaust. maybe more common than we think I only changed the outside magnet and solved the problem
I have replaced so many of these cams in the past 3 months. As you said, mostly 1.8’s. Thank God these cams (non-lift control) are only like $400. The gen 1 cams are over $1k. The other common failure I’ve seen is the lock pin deciding it doesn’t want to lock anymore. You unplug the cam magnet and the timing keeps wandering.
My MK7 1.8t runs pretty well but it's idle is sometimes erratic. I've been using 5w40 for the last 30,000 miles because for some reason when I use 5w30 I get oil pressure errors when the car is idling for a few minutes (beeing at a stop light for 5 minutes for example). Topping the oil level to the max with 5w40 help to eliminate the oil pressure error, but I still have sudden shakes at idle from time to time and sporadic jerky movements when I move from a full stop. What are your thoughts on this issue? Could it be related to faulty camshaft?
@@luisarsuaga7637 It could be a cam, however unless you’re getting a decent rattle noise at idle almost all of the time, I’d say you’re good. It’s more than likely the cam magnet (plastic disc with a plug in the end) is failing. We do tons of those at the dealer. Easiest way to tell, let the car warmup and idle. When the engine starts stumbling, unplug that magnet and see what happens. If the magnet has failed, the idle should smooth out almost immediately. The magnet is $125 and pretty easy to replace. Just make sure you replace the three T30 screws that hold it in place. They’re aluminum and will break off if you reuse the old ones. Also if you plan to do the work, follow the torque specs precisely on those bolts or the new ones will break.
@@JohnEvans-ct6mz I have a question, do you really need the tool which were showed in the video for the tensioner? It looks like you can do it without the tool.
@@Fetii I presume you are referring to the tool to release the tensioner. If you do the repair without removing the lower timing cover, you absolutely need that tool. It allows you to compress the tensioner to release the tension on the chain. If you don’t use it, the tensioner has enough spring pressure to fully extend itself and you will be unable to install the new cam. If you remove the lower timing cover, you can remove the tensioner completely and avoid using the tool but you have to reseal the cover, and find a way to keep the sprocket from popping off of the crankshaft. That tool also gives you the necessary leverage to compress the tensioner, the spring is quite strong.
ironically, oil has been an isue since 1.8t R4 20v 150 hp since 1995. Small volume sump + needed regular change of high quality synth. Oil related problems may be common for many manufacturers
Hi sir very nice explanation and information ,must of the new cars and trucks have the problem of consuming oil so people think you don't have to check oil level between oil change period and excess of time an kilometers or milles because they use synthetic oil...blessings
Lovely. As if the water pump on the wife's 2014 Jetta wasn't enough bs to piss you off from being plastic leaking junk ,now this. Definitely selling this thing in a couple years. 90k on it now ,I'll definitely sell it by 130k.
I had no end of problems with mine. 1. Bent a rod 2. Piston Rings 3. Valve spring snapped 4. Constantly had oil feedback through PCV Went through 3 engines within 45k miles and 6 years. Well maintained over the years and she always wanted more from me. Had to give her up in the end
I have had the unique opportunity to see my engine open about 3 times now, will say switch to Amsoil Euro Red cap has been outstanding. Lots less consumption than my friends. All in all though this is why I love DAP! Keep it up.
been thinking about going import (other than honda)... Been searching for hours for most common issues with these cars. I would hate to get a new(er) car and not be able to work on it. This video helps
Interesting! I was concerned that was what the issue was on my 1.8 gen 3 in my Sportwagen but it was the timing chain tensioners....at ~70K the bolts holding it to the block snapped.
Couple of questions. 1. Is this uncommon problem affecting both the CXCA/CXCB and DKFA versions of this EA888?? 2. Where is the "f*cking oil" going? I know on my 2020 GTI I lose about 8-10 oz of oil every 2-3k miles. My tail pipes are spotless, no leaks, and no check engine lights. I mean if it was burning it?? The O2 sensors would pick it up. I mean damn those sensors are so sensitive in these newer cars you fart in the car the check engine light comes on. Is is it just evaporative loss?? and if so, could this be resolved by using a 504 oil instead of a 508?? Thank Your for your Time and Input.👍
VW hasn't got camshaft metallurgy right since before the FSi. I don't know how they fucked that up, but my MK5 ate an intake cam/hpfp because VW can't design a camshaft lobe that could live for some reason. Nice to see the trend continues on the new engines too.
My car has a ticking sound similar to this, but does not happen at idle. Replaced the magnet and oil control valve but still have a knock sound. Let me know if you would be willing to talk to me about this issue, I cant find anybody that knows anything about these engines! Took the car to a shop and they said nothing is wrong...
I've personally had 3 different Gen 3 motors all owned from New. 2017 Jetta Sport 1.8T (Mexico) (Same engine platform) - Zero Oil issues - Traded @ 48k Miles. 30k of the miles were with Neuspeed Module Piggyback increasing boost output. 2019 Jetta GLI Autobahn 2.0T (Mexico) (Same as GTI engine) - Zero Oil Issues - VW Bought back/Lemon'd it @28k Miles for unfixable A/C issue. 10k of the Miles were with a Neuspeed Module Piggyback increasing boost output. 2020 Arteon SEL R-Line 4Motion 2.0T (Germany) (Tuned Down Golf R) - Zero Oil Issues - Currently @ 22K Miles - AWD forced me to buy a set of 4 new tires at 10k due to 2 - consecutive weeks of blowouts due to shitty roads by our office.... And then brakes require rotors and pads at only 20k. None of my 3 modern VWs with same engine family have had oil related issues at all even with me romping HARD on them. The only thing I've done is consistent maintenance by the book, always, always, always follow the break-in procedure to a tee, and only use Top-Tier branded gasoline and keeping every receipt for record 😅 Maybe its luck but I've only had issues with everything but engine/oil issues lol. But I've also been lucky enough to not have gone past 50k miles though so who knows. Maybe after some miles they get worse 😅 Just my experience 😁 TL;DR - 3 VWs with same engine family no engine or oil issues. Only other things 😅
I’m experiencing this exact issue on my CCTA 2.0TSI on a 2009 Tiguan. Some things never change lol. Doing both cams, chains, balance shafts and cam bridge. Hope it works
A Fumoto valve on my ea888 hit an armadillo which opened it ever so slightly. When I parked the car and briefly went into a store it drained the entire crankcase onto the parking lot. When started the car it idled fine, like normal, but when I put it into gear to reverse out the engine made a very loud rattle like if I had put a rigid metal “playing card” in bicycle spokes. I immediately put it back into neutral, tried again, and got the same noise. Then I very lightly revved the engine and got the noise quickly followed by the entire gauge cluster lighting up with the “LOW OIL YOU IDIOT” message popping up. I shut it off and there was no damage to the engine. I *strongly* suspect that the noise it was making was the variable valve piece you’re talking about in this video. I looked up what the internals look like and it appears as though the metal “chambers” could make quite a racket if they were left to bounce around without oil in them. I can’t imagine anyone hearing that noise even once and believing that they should operate their car for long enough to actually damage it… or maybe they’re really fragile and I got lucky because my problem happened while parked and not moving on a freeway or something. For the record I no longer use Fumoto valves.
Thanks! This channel is doooope and so was this video, wish I could be as smart as you! Maybe one day I will learn how to do mechanic work for my own cars!
Imagine if vw could add a sensor to directly tell you your oil level and oil pressure on the dash instead of hiding it behind software locks for the customer
I don't know if you jest, but there are multiple sensors to warn of loss of oil pressure, and low level. You will get a loud beep and a warning message in the gauge cluster if you are low on oil and/or lose pressure.
They do have those sensors, 99% of their customers don’t know/care what the oil level or pressure is so there’s no real point in adding it to the dash. If you care, then there’s cheap enough ways for you to check.
I got a scangage for my mk4 recently ,I should try it in the wife's 2014 Jetta as that car sucks ass not having a temp gauge. I've got a ross-tech ,I don't feel like riding around all the time with a laptop for a monitor. Not that they are ever accurate,it's more of a switch than a sender. Would be nice to have a little more engine info.
@@gregordiseth6651 by the time your oil pressure dips and is dropping ,it's done for,you've already got damage. I've been doing this for 25-30yrs and haven't ever seen anything different. Oil level would be better than worrying about pressure. Besides,in all those years I've seen like 2 engines with an actual low oil pressure problem due to something being worn out.
Excellent informational video, I am now convinced to replace the intake cam on my 2011 TFSI 2.0. aihave been battling timing error codes, engine was rebuild, pistons replaced oil pump, balance shafts Exct. . . .new timing components and still had timing issue codes, intake cam was never replaced 💀💀Wish me Luck 🫡
Good Gti's have one dipstick, bad ones have two dipsticks: one that measures the oil the other sits in the driving seat!! Keeping good oil level is a basic requirement. If are a diligent checker of tyres, washer, brake, coolant and power steering fluids you have the best chance of a good Gti.
Oh Crap. I just spent $1500 putting in a new front and rear suspension with new Bilstein B4s on front/back and new inner/outer tie rods, ball joints and stabilizer bars. But now my car ticks at 1000-2000?rpm. And I paid $1300 30k miles ago for timing chain job. I thought my cam phaser was bad. But my mechanic said engine is worn out at 269k miles and bearings are wearing so he mixes 1/2 regular LM oil and half thicker Motul. Says that temporarily counteracts loss of compression. I really enjoyed my 2014 GLI especially after a stage 1 Unitronic tune and beefier 034 Motorsport rear sway bar. I have enjoyed this car immensely. But time to set your out to pasture. Looking for a lightly used Toyota RAV4 now. I want to experience what reliability is.
Very informative video, but assuming the oil level is good (and regularly changed) wouldnt it be wiser to first replace the magnet valve and see if that would fix the issue? Seems a bit overkill to immediatly get a new camshaft.
He mentions in the very end of the video. The spool valves went through several revisions and the new valves are different sizes which only work on newer camshafts.
Seeing Paul get frustrated about the engine oil made me pause the video and go check my car's. Even though it's not a VW. Go check the oil in your engine people! Like now, please! 😅
Thanks so much for watching! Here are some of the links we mentioned.
OBDeleven Next Gen (iOS and Android) Pro
www.shopdap.com/nextgen-obdeleven-ios-android-vw-audi-scantool.html
MK7 Intake Cam Replacement Kit
www.shopdap.com/intake-camshaft-replacement-kit.html
2.0t TSI Timing Chain Special Tool Kit
www.shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/tools/20t-tsi-timing-chain-special-tool-install-kit.html
T10355 Crank Holder Tool
www.shopdap.com/1-2-drive-crank-counter-hold-tool-for-vw-t10355-wkz-t10355.html
Gen 3 Spool Valve Socket (V2)
www.shopdap.com/spool-valve-removal-socket-for-t10352-2.html
Gen 3 Spool Valve Socket (V4)
www.shopdap.com/spool-valve-removal-socket-t10352-4-for-gen-3-1-8t-and-2-0t.html
Tensioner Adjustment Lever for VW T40243
www.shopdap.com/tensioner-adjustment-lever-for-vw-t40243-wkz-t40243.html
I contacted Charles a few years ago about this very issue on an MK6 Jetta 1.8t about him making a video about this issue, but he never responded to my messages.
Thank you, Paul and keep up the good work!
Please do a video on EPC light on a MK7
Paul having a crisis over lack of oil in these engines brightens my day 😅
Totally - "Do you know what else has a crisis over lack of oil? Your cam adjusters!" 🤯
It will encourage people to check more often
these cars burn more oil than gas! the dealer tells you its normal that it consumes 1l every 1k km. funny cuz my camry v6 doesnt miss a drop od oil after 5k km.
as I'm ordering my next batch of oil lol
Was a vw tech for 47 years and checked the oil on all the cars I worked on (a habit) 90% were always down on level.
I'm getting that oil is causing all kinds of problems in engines, definitely going to go get rid of all of mine so my timing phasors don't make noise
Pro tip to make installing the cam cage easier: find some long bolts with the same thread/pitch as two of the stock screws that secure it to the engine and cut the heads off. Insert these long bolts so that they’re effectively studs. Use these studs to perfectly line up the cam cage to guarantee that your sealant gets sandwiched in place perfectly with zero lateral movement. Insert hardware, remove studs, and off you go.
Hi, Audi tech here. We get cars rolling in with this problem pretty often. We never replace the camshaft tho we just replace the plungers and the magnets. This solves the problem. Just replaced them on a Golf R this saturday and it's running like new.
Ford tech here, so im no stranger to vct issues lol, my S3 at idle sometimes (not all times) the RPMs start jumping almost like i have a old school cammed out v8. once i start driving its fine and then it goes away at the next stop. have a p0011 code. was going to just replace the solenoid until i saw this. thoughts?
I got 2021 A4 with 20k on it. Should I be worried? Anything to prevent this?
Did you replace both magnets and plungers on both?
im having this issue right now and we have unplugged both phasers and change the valve spool and the ticking noise still persists. should i assume its the intake cam or replace both phasers and see then
@senco981 yes be very worried you bought a time bomb, get rid of it asap
Very good video and makes the point of OIL LEVEL! However, the noise, usually on start up, or while running, indicated the failed camshaft adjuster unit as stated. The "hunting" value block is 99% of the time caused by the magnet itself sticking due to sludged oil stuck in the solenoid plunger from the car being ran low on oil or infrequent oil changes. If you have the faults with a hunting idle and value block, replace the magnet.
changed magents 4 times in the lifetime of my mk7 gti. then finally the one valve decided to come apart. Have not had issues for a good few KM but just upgraded to a 7.5Gti. Sticking with the Gen3 engine with all the issues Ive had. I will always check oil !
BMW B series engines have the same design of solenoid and seem to experience the same issue with sticking, causing poor idle quality and bad drivability.
I change my oil every 5000km or 6000km and the plunger still got stuck and failed and left me fucking stranded in a parking lot. This has nothing to do with infrequent oil changes its just terrible design by VW.
Bought my 18 GTI Se Dsg new. Currently have 124k miles. No oil burning. 7500-8k mile oil changes. Never done carbon cleaning. Still smooth.
I had a similar issue with hunting, but it was just because the cam magnet was bad!
The old owner didn’t keep up with oil changes so it got junked up and couldn’t move properly. New cam magnet installed (just takes a couple of minutes) and now the specified and actual values are within 0.5 of each other 🎉
How Paul never made it as a stand-up comic i'll never known. I look forward to these videos for the great info and the occasional chuckle-snort.
That was gold, Pro tip "Check your F*&k3n oil" Who would have thought, haha
I had this issue in my 2016 R. The screen on the oil control valve was ripped. Lucky no debris caused damage. Oil level was fine. I am now considering this a consumable part and will be changing them every 100,000 km's no matter what. The part isn't very expensive and once you have the proper tool to change them it takes about the same amount of time as an oil change. I see lots of posts on the Facebook Groups about people having this issue.
i have a 17 passat and im trying to stay on top of preventative maintenance, what tools do you have and what parts are you referencing? :)
I was told the 2016 had the oil valve integrated, thus the removal of the entire intake camshaft. I also have a 2016 R with the tapping sound that goes away when unplugging the cam magnet. Are you saying I won't need to pull the entire camshaft?
We’ve seen this issues several times now on both 1.8 and 2.0 engines at our shop. Not super common but definitely something to keep an eye out for if you’ve got timing faults.
Worth properly diagnosing too. I had the exact faults that Paul had, but in my 2009 Tiguan. Assumed it was the timing chain, but after teardown, I realized the chain & tensioner was actually good and was updated. With some digging I found that my intake cam had gone bad too. Interesting to see this never got fixed on these updated engines.
@@brandonfriesen5389 They cant fix "owners not putting enough oil in the car "problem.
@@e0nema0tak1v its possible but I believe my stuff went bad due to balance shaft failure and the oil screens blowing oil causing metal shrapnel to score small bearing surfaces and clog oil galleries. Fairly well documented on TSI's. Great engines, but man they can fail in many catastrophic ways.
Years ago a friend in the 90’s had a Passat, and he always had the maintenance up to date. However the engine grenades due to an old timing belt. Dealership was going to charge him for repairs until he took out his owners maintenance log and the dealership had stamped that he had gotten the timing belt replaced 😊. They had charged for the work but never did it 😮
I've experience the electronic magnet nipple that actuates the cam adjustment valve sticking too. Causing same faults. A nice easy check before going to the full camshaft
Nice to see this problem. I have an 1.8T from gen3 in my Skoda, and now I will watch my oil level more often. Thank you!
So just completed this job on my A4 with Gen3 motor - just wanted to say thanks for the video as it was spot on with the problem i had with my car. replaced both Exhaust and Intake cams (both had scoring on the snout part) with new spool valves, adjusters and timing kit at the same time.
cars runs like new now - :)
Thanks again
You guys recently replaced my intake cam. No problems since then! Amazing shop
This has to be your best video so far. I laugh so much but it was important and educative at the same time
My oil light came on this week. I checked and it's super low. Again. I have a 1.8 TSI.
I felt like he was personally calling me out in the video 😂
Me too 😂 my 1.8 eats oil I’ve been adding a quart a month for awhile now 🥺
I changed my pan now its half a quart 2500miles. It is very loud in when i start guessing need new magnet as one of the guy stated above in comments. Man can’t afford a camshaft labor gonna be hella expensive just spent 1500$ on water pump n carbon cleaning 😅
Love the detailed specs and the obd11 screenshots. Please continue doing this so we can learn how to diagnose ourselves if we have the app. Thank You!!
I just heard that noise coming from my GTI a couple days ago. I definitely have oil and I change my oil every 5k miles. Thanks for the bad news
The plunger(spoolvalve) in the center of the camshaft actually failed on my ‘13 mk7 gti, Causing it to sound a TDI. It did have oil in the engine though😂. Replacing the plunger fixed the problem and prevented from buying a whole new camshaft. This was around 140k km’s.
Fun to see how this whole part work, keep up the informative videos!
Hello, any chance you can add me on some sort of other social media so I can send you a video of what mine sounds like so you can tell me wether it was the same as yours. Had this issue for ages now and it’s stressing me out as no one can diagnose it
VW tech here: To know if its the N205 valve, first unplug it to see if the sound and characteristics of the engine changes, if it does then you have a bad valve. To confirm further, remove the valve and check the plunger/nipple . If the punger/nipple shows any resistance in moving in/out, the valve is bad and needs replacement. PS. Make sure you have OIL IN IT!!! 😂 GL!
but he said you can't just replace the valve 😕...... the entire kit has to be used
@@voffchik26 he is in the business of selling parts, what do you expect
Can confirm.
My S3 is on it's third (inlet) camshaft.
It's freakishly well serviced, getting oilchanges ~4-5k km yearly.
My problems were. 1st time:
-strange throttle response. Sometimes more, sometimes less power than expected.
Second time it was replaced because second one failed immediately.
Third change was because I heard the ticking noise.
Oil got pushed out the seal (and in the connector). This is pretty common said the (experienced) Audi technician.
Timing chain was also replaced.
Stretching of the chain seems to have a lot to do with failure on the cams.
Wow, that is worrisome, how many miles you got on S3?
@@senco981
It now has 150k km~ 90k in miles.
It all started at 60k miles. ~100k km.
@@theowarmelink7347 Thanks
Exact thing that happened to my GF's GLI even down to the sound. VW diagnosed it 100 miles out of warranty but ended up covering it under good will. The sound was very apparent inside and outside of the car.
Did they give you a cost for the repair? I'm out of warranty and I fear this is my problem currently. Just looking to get an idea of how much pain I'm about to be in
@@f2tzoomzoomI don't remember the exact number but it was not cheap, like $2500+, but understand that was the dealer. I'm sure an independent shop would have cut that price significantly. The price was why we kept pushing for it to be covered, we had to get VW corporate involved, but it worked. Good luck!
I had exactly the same noise on my 2011 1.8tfsi ... replaced the timing chain & tentioner, replaced all the surrounding sensors... the noise never went away, so this was the very last thing left to replace... at least now I know this will definitely fix it...
I had the cam adjustment magnets replaced in mine 2 weeks ago, the car seemed like it was a bit noisy (similar to the noise in your video) and the car was idling a bit rough (not enough to be overly concerned) the car has a full service history and I top the oil up about once a month (mine likes to drink a lot) unfortunately, the thing died at the side of the road and couldn't be restarted. Ironically, it died on its way to the mechanic (not the dealer but a very good local European car specialist)
Not a cheap repair but the car drives fantastic now. I am glad I didn't need full cam shaft replacement and that the magnets were the only thing that needed replacing.
Car had 155,000km (about 96,000mi) when it finally went.
I just got an oil change at my vw shop but now this videos making me go check my oil 🤣
I'm probably older than most of you guys and as a rule of thumb, you should check your oil level weekly, i've been doin' it from i was a teenager advised by the elders. Nowadays epecially cars of today with a turbo!
That's how to do it,until modern engineers decided that dipsticks are not required on engines.You just get an idiot light on the panel instead.
Man... I came here expecting the infamous sunroof leaking issue which plagues so many MK7's
I just had my rear upper break light resealed as that was letting water in. Oh and also the pressure vents behind the rear bumper. Still got water on my rear right door sill after resealing speaker seals and clearing drainage pipe in door. Not sure what it can be now
As a fresh vw/Audi tech this video is a blessing. Now I know why ea888’s are so noisy😂there’s never any OIL
Very informative video! I just did the timing assembly on my mk5 a few days ago and wondered what was behind that intake cam sprocket.. duhh of course it’s the phase adjustment. But beyond that, when performing the work I heard some interesting noises and seen some weird things with this motor. I’m glad I get to see another expert explain the full function in detail
Lack of service and care is the cause of most problems with any vehicle, not the manufacturer. Thanks for sharing.
The problem he doesn’t mention is that these engine eat oil and it gets lower over time.
@2:31 that TSI sounds like my TDI
My car makes that sound now (@ 2:32) and throws a P0341 at the moment. Yay🎉
Its nice to see this video because I had this same problem with my gti and it is in the shop right now being fixed, (its been there for 3 months) something to look out for is that this problem shares a lot of symptoms with other problems so just look out for that if you have this same issue
Parts availability issues? 3 months is a long time, that would make me nervous ...
Did you have an idle sounding like a diesel?
@@jp2246 it’s because the dealer ship had some parts on back order and there was apparently a lot of other cars that needed to be serviced before mine
@@andrewmankowski2301 yeah it sounded like a diesel tractor and stalled at like every stop
@@pollux9696 good luck on the repairs and hope you get your GTI back soon
I just had to change the camshaft magnet on my S3 because I kept getting Camshaft timing over advanced error codes and check engine lights. The part was super cheap and replacing it is easy. Doing this also smoothed out throttle response and improved MPGs. No need to replace the camshaft as the adjuster and magnet itself was the culprit. Always start with the cheap and easy work first to see if that fixes your issue. Replacing Cams should be a last resort if everything else doesn't fix it.
For good measure, I checked the valve solenoid to ensure there were no issues with the part itself, gave it a brake fluid bath, and reinstalled it. All good now for the last couple thousand miles.
This. Common fix to change magnets on the Cupra forum I'm on too.
I had the same on my golf R VW said it was the chain so had it changed (1k+) however fault was still there so I changed the cam adjuster sensor and it worked fine😅
@@RetroTubing Yeah man; mechanically these cars are rock solid. It's the damn electronics that cause all the glitches. You've got to be on top of your battery to make sure you don't get phantom codes and then also things like this, where small parts go bad (that are thankfully cheap).
Everyone who owns one of these cars owes it to themselves to spend the $35 bucks to get access to the Audi Erwin database and download all the PDF's for their vehicle. It'll pay for itself by thousands of dollars over and over in savings for stupid, poorly diagnosed issues from those not in the know
@treize elements What codes were you getting?
@@von6164 a lot of timing over (and under) advanced codes. I don’t remember the exact code numbers, but that’s what they were telling me
My MK7.5 started drinking oil at 6k miles, dealers just kept saying it was "Normal", had to drive around with oil because the "Check oil level" light kept coming on.
Then she started knock, knock, knockin' when i was in the McDonalds drive-thru. Needless to say, I sold it back to the dealer with 10k miles on it.
i've had this issue on my '14 mk7 gti on idle exclusively and replacing the spool valve on admission camshaft solved it. I've had 20k km since then, never heard it.
I knew from the very beginning to change oil way more often than the dealer says, and use the OEM oil filter with the specified oil. Engine will last a long time, even if it’s being driven hard
I agree...I bought my MK7 brand new and only drove maybe 8000-10000KM per year (and that kilometers) and I changed mine twice a year still. I did the intake service too once a year until I sold it. It didn't burn a drop of oil and didn't give me problems. That extra maintenance was so easy and I felt good about selling it knowing I'd done what I can to prolong it's life
Had the exact problem, was chasng the cause of it for about a year and half. Problem with my car wasnt in oil starvation, but worned out magnets and camshaft actuators. They were completely blocked. After putting new ones, the sound mentioned in the video showed after 5k km. After replacing them with the new ones, the sound was gone, but car was losing oil pressure at about 3k rpm and went into limp mode when warm oil. Oil pressure test showed everything was fine. Then after a year, low oil pressure warning came up. I found that the camshafts were losing presure in cambridge. New cambridge and camshafts, but then the turbo blew. Hopefully everything is ok now
I got a used gti financed.. had to return it worked good until it didn’t.. spent 3 weeks in the shop in the first two months of owning it was crazy
My U.K. car is a 20l5 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 diesel which may be a big issue in time is the double overhead camshafts area chain driven which is at the rear of the engine so fun and games if it needs replaceing
I had a similar problem but the timing jitter was around 3-4 degrees. Replacing just the electromagnet fixed it. Even after cleaning the push pin, it still moves roughly on the bench (I use a variable power supply). The push pin was just worn out. It holds to 0.5 degrees now.
Great video! Cool to see what the inside of my cars engine looks like and the process of replacing the camshaft.
My audi a5 gen 3 engine had a failed solenoid camshaft valve on intake and exhaust. replaced both wit oem parts and solved my ticking problems.
As a 4.6 Mustang owner this looks like a super simple cam change 🤣
As a 5.0 twin turbo mustang owner, you need to get a bigger engine.
@@Twistalo as a 1.0 corsa owner, no one asked.
We had the problem on the GTI, but it was the solenoid that caused it. started to stutter like a maniac. noone thought this would fail at 40k miles so it wasnt the first thing to be changed in the end. Killed the timing chain in the process.
I have a 2016 VW GLI with 140K miles on the clock now. The only two things that ever broke were the clockspring and a single rear ABS sensor, both of which the VAG is obviously unable to fix. Otherwisely, at this time the oil consumption is 1 Qt per 4K miles and everything else is as good as new. I've been changing the oil every 5K since day one, OEM, and it seemed to have done the trick. I'm still to decarb the car for the very first time, just as a preventative measure, no misfires or anything like that.
What’s wrong with the camshaft ? Why are we not just replacing the seals ?
This.... made me check my oil today. And we are good for now.
Very informative video. I learnt a lot about my POS engine.. Thank you!
I change the oil every 5K in my 2018 Golf 1.8 TSI Gen 3. Also check it frequently. After 75K, no problems and no oil use. If you are obsessive about performing all maintenance on your VW you should have no problems. If not, expect big problems.
Yes and No...
they are no Toyotas that changing the oil will save you from a auto shop repair bill once past 100k. If it is DSG, there is no way around replacing the flywheel at high miles, the water pump, coil packs, oil pump, wheel bearings are normal tear and wear in the 100k to 200k mile range. A Toyota can go 300k and maybe need a new water pump or a bad bearing tensioner as long as oil changes are made, something that cannot achieved by VW if doing the same.
I’ve allready changed both on my GTI 😂 first the admission one and after 40k kms de exhaust. maybe more common than we think
I only changed the outside magnet and solved the problem
I have replaced so many of these cams in the past 3 months. As you said, mostly 1.8’s. Thank God these cams (non-lift control) are only like $400. The gen 1 cams are over $1k. The other common failure I’ve seen is the lock pin deciding it doesn’t want to lock anymore. You unplug the cam magnet and the timing keeps wandering.
My MK7 1.8t runs pretty well but it's idle is sometimes erratic. I've been using 5w40 for the last 30,000 miles because for some reason when I use 5w30 I get oil pressure errors when the car is idling for a few minutes (beeing at a stop light for 5 minutes for example). Topping the oil level to the max with 5w40 help to eliminate the oil pressure error, but I still have sudden shakes at idle from time to time and sporadic jerky movements when I move from a full stop. What are your thoughts on this issue? Could it be related to faulty camshaft?
@@luisarsuaga7637 It could be a cam, however unless you’re getting a decent rattle noise at idle almost all of the time, I’d say you’re good. It’s more than likely the cam magnet (plastic disc with a plug in the end) is failing. We do tons of those at the dealer. Easiest way to tell, let the car warmup and idle. When the engine starts stumbling, unplug that magnet and see what happens. If the magnet has failed, the idle should smooth out almost immediately. The magnet is $125 and pretty easy to replace. Just make sure you replace the three T30 screws that hold it in place. They’re aluminum and will break off if you reuse the old ones. Also if you plan to do the work, follow the torque specs precisely on those bolts or the new ones will break.
@@JohnEvans-ct6mz that's great information! Thanks for the reply!!
@@JohnEvans-ct6mz I have a question, do you really need the tool which were showed in the video for the tensioner? It looks like you can do it without the tool.
@@Fetii I presume you are referring to the tool to release the tensioner. If you do the repair without removing the lower timing cover, you absolutely need that tool. It allows you to compress the tensioner to release the tension on the chain. If you don’t use it, the tensioner has enough spring pressure to fully extend itself and you will be unable to install the new cam. If you remove the lower timing cover, you can remove the tensioner completely and avoid using the tool but you have to reseal the cover, and find a way to keep the sprocket from popping off of the crankshaft. That tool also gives you the necessary leverage to compress the tensioner, the spring is quite strong.
Stop oil shaming me bro. I like it dry real dry!
😂😂😂
Maintenence is key for a car to work. Not having enough motor-oil is just bad ownership.
😂😂😂😂 My favorite DAP video of all time. Informative. And hilarious.
Was about to life my GTI to resolve an oil leak. Stopped once I got the notification and am currently watching this...lol.
Thanks!
thank you, watching your video makes me understand the source of my frustruation with my 2015 gti. :)
ironically, oil has been an isue since 1.8t R4 20v 150 hp since 1995. Small volume sump + needed regular change of high quality synth.
Oil related problems may be common for many manufacturers
Hi sir very nice explanation and information ,must of the new cars and trucks have the problem of consuming oil so people think you don't have to check oil level between oil change period and excess of time an kilometers or milles because they use synthetic oil...blessings
Lovely.
As if the water pump on the wife's 2014 Jetta wasn't enough bs to piss you off from being plastic leaking junk ,now this.
Definitely selling this thing in a couple years.
90k on it now ,I'll definitely sell it by 130k.
I had no end of problems with mine.
1. Bent a rod
2. Piston Rings
3. Valve spring snapped
4. Constantly had oil feedback through PCV
Went through 3 engines within 45k miles and 6 years. Well maintained over the years and she always wanted more from me.
Had to give her up in the end
It’s an Audi gen3 it’s probably burnt it’s way through the oil since you last checked. Great content, thanks for sharing
''As you can SEE, the noise is completely gone''
Well done Paul, very similar to BMW Vanos. Good, clean Oil is the key.
I have had the unique opportunity to see my engine open about 3 times now, will say switch to Amsoil Euro Red cap has been outstanding. Lots less consumption than my friends.
All in all though this is why I love DAP! Keep it up.
been thinking about going import (other than honda)... Been searching for hours for most common issues with these cars. I would hate to get a new(er) car and not be able to work on it. This video helps
Interesting! I was concerned that was what the issue was on my 1.8 gen 3 in my Sportwagen but it was the timing chain tensioners....at ~70K the bolts holding it to the block snapped.
😲
Couple of questions. 1. Is this uncommon problem affecting both the CXCA/CXCB and DKFA versions of this EA888?? 2. Where is the "f*cking oil" going? I know on my 2020 GTI I lose about 8-10 oz of oil every 2-3k miles. My tail pipes are spotless, no leaks, and no check engine lights. I mean if it was burning it?? The O2 sensors would pick it up. I mean damn those sensors are so sensitive in these newer cars you fart in the car the check engine light comes on. Is is it just evaporative loss?? and if so, could this be resolved by using a 504 oil instead of a 508?? Thank Your for your Time and Input.👍
Following
It looks easier than replacing a head gasket on a Subaru, so that's not so bad, I guess.
Why would you only replace one cam if you are already in there!?
VW hasn't got camshaft metallurgy right since before the FSi. I don't know how they fucked that up, but my MK5 ate an intake cam/hpfp because VW can't design a camshaft lobe that could live for some reason. Nice to see the trend continues on the new engines too.
I have seen many 1.8 cams for sure. But actually what I have seen more is the actual magnets that control the oil movement.
My car has a ticking sound similar to this, but does not happen at idle. Replaced the magnet and oil control valve but still have a knock sound. Let me know if you would be willing to talk to me about this issue, I cant find anybody that knows anything about these engines! Took the car to a shop and they said nothing is wrong...
I've personally had 3 different Gen 3 motors all owned from New.
2017 Jetta Sport 1.8T (Mexico) (Same engine platform) - Zero Oil issues - Traded @ 48k Miles. 30k of the miles were with Neuspeed Module Piggyback increasing boost output.
2019 Jetta GLI Autobahn 2.0T (Mexico) (Same as GTI engine) - Zero Oil Issues - VW Bought back/Lemon'd it @28k Miles for unfixable A/C issue. 10k of the Miles were with a Neuspeed Module Piggyback increasing boost output.
2020 Arteon SEL R-Line 4Motion 2.0T (Germany) (Tuned Down Golf R) - Zero Oil Issues - Currently @ 22K Miles - AWD forced me to buy a set of 4 new tires at 10k due to 2 - consecutive weeks of blowouts due to shitty roads by our office.... And then brakes require rotors and pads at only 20k.
None of my 3 modern VWs with same engine family have had oil related issues at all even with me romping HARD on them. The only thing I've done is consistent maintenance by the book, always, always, always follow the break-in procedure to a tee, and only use Top-Tier branded gasoline and keeping every receipt for record 😅
Maybe its luck but I've only had issues with everything but engine/oil issues lol. But I've also been lucky enough to not have gone past 50k miles though so who knows. Maybe after some miles they get worse 😅
Just my experience 😁
TL;DR - 3 VWs with same engine family no engine or oil issues. Only other things 😅
This video gave me anxiety, I’m gonna go check my oil now.
I’m experiencing this exact issue on my CCTA 2.0TSI on a 2009 Tiguan. Some things never change lol. Doing both cams, chains, balance shafts and cam bridge. Hope it works
Change just the magnets first
A Fumoto valve on my ea888 hit an armadillo which opened it ever so slightly. When I parked the car and briefly went into a store it drained the entire crankcase onto the parking lot. When started the car it idled fine, like normal, but when I put it into gear to reverse out the engine made a very loud rattle like if I had put a rigid metal “playing card” in bicycle spokes. I immediately put it back into neutral, tried again, and got the same noise. Then I very lightly revved the engine and got the noise quickly followed by the entire gauge cluster lighting up with the “LOW OIL YOU IDIOT” message popping up. I shut it off and there was no damage to the engine.
I *strongly* suspect that the noise it was making was the variable valve piece you’re talking about in this video. I looked up what the internals look like and it appears as though the metal “chambers” could make quite a racket if they were left to bounce around without oil in them. I can’t imagine anyone hearing that noise even once and believing that they should operate their car for long enough to actually damage it… or maybe they’re really fragile and I got lucky because my problem happened while parked and not moving on a freeway or something.
For the record I no longer use Fumoto valves.
you are best speaking on youtube ever!
Thanks! This channel is doooope and so was this video, wish I could be as smart as you! Maybe one day I will learn how to do mechanic work for my own cars!
My 2014 volkswagen passat 1.8-t wolfsburg edition has the same problem with Camshaft Adjuster and puncher.
Imagine if vw could add a sensor to directly tell you your oil level and oil pressure on the dash instead of hiding it behind software locks for the customer
I don't know if you jest, but there are multiple sensors to warn of loss of oil pressure, and low level. You will get a loud beep and a warning message in the gauge cluster if you are low on oil and/or lose pressure.
that would make too much sense
They do have those sensors, 99% of their customers don’t know/care what the oil level or pressure is so there’s no real point in adding it to the dash. If you care, then there’s cheap enough ways for you to check.
I got a scangage for my mk4 recently ,I should try it in the wife's 2014 Jetta as that car sucks ass not having a temp gauge.
I've got a ross-tech ,I don't feel like riding around all the time with a laptop for a monitor.
Not that they are ever accurate,it's more of a switch than a sender.
Would be nice to have a little more engine info.
@@gregordiseth6651 by the time your oil pressure dips and is dropping ,it's done for,you've already got damage.
I've been doing this for 25-30yrs and haven't ever seen anything different.
Oil level would be better than worrying about pressure.
Besides,in all those years I've seen like 2 engines with an actual low oil pressure problem due to something being worn out.
Excellent informational video, I am now convinced to replace the intake cam on my 2011 TFSI 2.0. aihave been battling timing error codes, engine was rebuild, pistons replaced oil pump, balance shafts Exct. . . .new timing components and still had timing issue codes, intake cam was never replaced 💀💀Wish me Luck 🫡
Exactly why I keep my oil changed and topped up religiously 🙏🙏🙏
"OBD Eleven"!? I've missed the last 9 versions of it I guess 😟
Our alltrack kinda sounds like that but never any codes and I do all the oil maintenance (with stuff from Dap!) and she's tippy top all the time
Paul, you are absolutely hilarious man, keep up the great work and videos.
Great video. Certainly put me off trying it just looking at the tools needed..
*In the thumbnail - cam phasers have been an issue since variable valve-timing came out many decades ago.*
I had a leaky electromagnet. Oil was leaking out of the middle and smelled really bad. Replaced magnet and no more leak
I'm checking my oil before I have breakfast in the morning 😅
Good Gti's have one dipstick, bad ones have two dipsticks: one that measures the oil the other sits in the driving seat!! Keeping good oil level is a basic requirement. If are a diligent checker of tyres, washer, brake, coolant and power steering fluids you have the best chance of a good Gti.
Fascinated by "this is advance" DIY
Oh Crap. I just spent $1500 putting in a new front and rear suspension with new Bilstein B4s on front/back and new inner/outer tie rods, ball joints and stabilizer bars. But now my car ticks at 1000-2000?rpm. And I paid $1300 30k miles ago for timing chain job. I thought my cam phaser was bad. But my mechanic said engine is worn out at 269k miles and bearings are wearing so he mixes 1/2 regular LM oil and half thicker Motul. Says that temporarily counteracts loss of compression. I really enjoyed my 2014 GLI especially after a stage 1 Unitronic tune and beefier 034 Motorsport rear sway bar. I have enjoyed this car immensely. But time to set your out to pasture. Looking for a lightly used Toyota RAV4 now. I want to experience what reliability is.
brilliant video. very simple and straight to the point. Very helpful
Very informative video, but assuming the oil level is good (and regularly changed) wouldnt it be wiser to first replace the magnet valve and see if that would fix the issue? Seems a bit overkill to immediatly get a new camshaft.
He mentions in the very end of the video. The spool valves went through several revisions and the new valves are different sizes which only work on newer camshafts.
Seeing Paul get frustrated about the engine oil made me pause the video and go check my car's. Even though it's not a VW.
Go check the oil in your engine people! Like now, please! 😅
Alright this my new fav video thanks man.
2:32 I had that noise in my car (not VW but TSI from VAG). Air Condition compressor failed at very early stage. 3 years old car.