WATCH THIS before doing ANY Rust removal on your car! Neutrarust 661 and Lanoguard
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- In this video I tackle the unsightly rust on my L322 Range Rovers underbelly!
Products used:
Neutrarust 661 - neutrarust.co.uk/why-neutraru...
@Lanoguard - www.lanoguard.co.uk
TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Introduction
01:31 Neutrarust Intro
02:20 Lanoguard Intro
05:32 Preparing the Area - Tow ball
06:30 Applying Neutrarust 661 for the first time
08:36 First results of the Neutrarust
10:42 Inspecting the front subframe
12:05 Results on Subframe after Neutrarust treatment
13:50 Applying Lanoguard
16:13 Summary!
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Would be good to get a product review 1 year on. How they faired and what the underneath looks like now. Thinking of getting both myself.
i've always been curious about rust converters but assumed that most of them were a bit too good to be true, however this actually looks great. definitely something i've added to the list of things to do on my cars! thanks for the vid
Hi Jason, glad to see it worked out, I thought you'd like it, It's awesome stuff, always happy to help, all the best, Guy.
I bought the neutrarust 661 over a year ago,with the thought of doing the van chassis.
Did a lot of research to end at this product,but being unsure,i thought i would test it some acro props and the cement mixer.
I still haven't put a top coat of paint on either or done the van yet,but mixer and props that are left outside all year have no rust and a lovely colour black.
So this stuff definitely works.
Apparently it's also used by the military.
Must do the van this year !
Great review Jason. Both products look great. Going to be doing this to mine at some point when I've got the engine sorted but my mobility following broken wrist is shockingly bad so that's caused a serious hold up! Anyway - keep it up. Cheers Ant
Nice work, I used the Lanoguard recently and I've also been impressed by the semi OEM look of it when dry and ease of application. To be fair it a bit messy if you spill it (!) and sometimes brushing it on can help, but on balance it's pretty good.
The tow hitch and associated ironwork on my Rangy was orange with flakes of black. I sanded the hitch down to shiny metal, painted around the bolts but left the ball shiny. Did similar to the framework and sprayed all with Lanoguard. That was September 2021. The ball has obviously been very exposed to the elements, power washes etc. It is now dull in colour with a very small amount of rust around the neck. Very impressed. I also have no affiliation to Lanoguard. However, like you I bashed the worst of the rust off the rear subframe, painted on Rustoleum Epoxy and followed with Lanoguard. Rust has come through both coverings in spots. My conclusion is that you have to get the corrosion down to surface rust/bare metal then coat with Lanoguard and it will be good for at least 12 months. Your videos are great and real, keep it up. Dave
Absolutely spiffing young man 👍
Good review bud. Defo gonna get some of each product.
Thank you for introducing me to Neutrarust 661! I'm in my 60's and stuck in my ways re rust treatment...Jenolite, Kurust, Waxoyl etc. Defo gonna give this a workout on my Mitsubishi Delica next summer!
I use Kurust - similar results. Useful video, thanks
Typical - I bought a load of Hammerite and other stuff to do the wheel arches and sills on mine before winter and now you tell me there's the lazy man version! Seriously though, thanks for the tip on this stuff I think I will end up getting some for the jobs like you say, tidying up areas underneath or the bits and bobs when doing another job. Cheers, love to see the L322 back on the channel even if it's from the wrong angle...
Great video
Great video as usual Jason, about to do the same to one of my cars so may do both if it goes well. And cow noise? Fess up man, that was a fart 😋
Morning Jase, I've got the same L322 as your in silver too. I'm definitely doing this at the weekend amazing results and just freshens everything up. Great effort
Cheers
Glad to hear it! Keeping these on the road as long as we can is the name of the game. Plenty more expensive possible problems, so I don’t want to deal with rust on top of that! Haha
@@TyredFormat Agreed another item ticked off lol
Great video on application and it looks really good. Main interest is how well it arrests and prevents new rust from winter salt. Please share updates. Thanks.
Look at that rear crossmember - amazing!!! Sorry the algorithm is being a **** Jason, it rarely makes any sense - thank you for another great video!
Thanks 👍
This Neutrarust appears to be the same stuff as Kurust, which you can get from Halfords. Turns the top, surface level, of rust black. But, in my experience, doesn't take long for the underlying rust to come through again.
I removed that tow hitch from mine and bought a 2” square bung for the receiver. Tidied it up the back end.
Spot on, thank you
I love how reluctant you are to get outside with the camera and "look like a nob", even talking in hushed tones when talking outside for the camera. 😆
I'd be exactly the same and can imagine it being quite awkward, well done for cracking on and doing it anyway. 👌
Good result on the car too, I might show my P38 some love with that stuff, if it's not too late. 👍
I try haha
do you have a long term update like to see how its aged cheers
I thought Jenolite would take some beating but I'd like to give your stuff a go and compare the two. Great vid.
I do my Landrover with lanoguard, been fine so far
Just watch where you park when you’re out greenlaning, some ram may take an interest in your Rover.
I'm just about to do the same and I chose the same products you did. I don't see the point of putting lanoguard over the top of active rust. It's definitely better to try to neutralise the rust then go over with the lanoguard to slow it down.
How does it look now, I'm doing a hilux chassis just now and would like to do the lanogaurd direct onto the 661. Just wondering how that has worked out?
Waterbased, non acid, non toxical, but still convert the rust. Too good to be true.
How’s it been since you’ve applied this? I’ve got a 2013 Focus ST which has a few areas on the subframe/arms etc which could do with some attention so I very keen to apply this stuff.
Great review
I use lanoshield which must be VERY similar to lanoguard. I guess!
Hiya mate, great video, think im gonna go for the same treatment now. Is it possible to use your discount code for lanoguard?
Interesting stuff and wonder if sheep chase you down the road lol.
Os yhere really a way to stop rust in iron since it reacts with oxygen and eventually oxidize in the process?
How you can rate this product after 6 months and the winter ?
amazing results , what's the chemistry going on here ? Is the rust sealed under this product or converted to something else ?
It chemically neutralises the rust, and leaves a hard, hydrophobic coating over the top.
@@TyredFormathi. How do you redo this in 1-2 years? Lanoguard leaves a shell of greasy substance, how do you get it off and apply a new layer? Thanks
@gtyah leave it on there and spray again, thicker the better as it is a oil based crust
how's this held up?
Jason, a few questions, what’s it like one year on.?Is it flammable and if you have to do welding does the car go up like a firework.? Looks good 👍🏻 found your channel today my car must have rust 😂🤔
Hey there! I sold the car a few months after, so dont have many answers to the questions. I'd ask them direct on flammability :) Thanks for watching
What's it like now 1year on?
Get yourself a cordless disc cutter/grinder and some stripping discs.
Neutrarust 661 requires a top coat according to the website. Its great stuff. I think spray paint or brush paint over the 661 and then Lanoguard once dry may be better long term ?
Thats exactly what I did.
Im not convinced that rust converters work. They look great immediately after applying and for a few months but the rist eventually comes back through. If you scrape the surface in a few months it will be pure orange rust underneath. Real test is how it looks after a British winter. I actually pressure spray old engine oil underneath cars and it seems to work as well as most commercial products and uses up old oil!! As long as it keeps salt water away from steel it must help? Remembered cars of old that leaked oil rarely had rusty subframes.
Just wonder how the underbody of your car looks like after this time over 7 months after ?
I’ve actually sold this car. But from what other people say, it’s pretty good in the long term 👍
I'm not convinced by these treatments. They look good but do they just mask the rust? And what about the top of the subframe that you can't reach? If that's rusty (which it probably is) the rust will just eat away from above.
True you have to drop the subframe to do a proper Job even lanoguard would admit that.
Hiya there mate u ok? So you painted the neutrarust on, then left it to dry, then did u paint lanoguard on from the tub u have to heat up or did u just use the other liquid form lanoguard with the spray?
I sprayed the liquid on. And for bad areas (prone to rust or collect moisture, bushes and bearings etc) I used the grease as well!
@@TyredFormat right i see, thank u very much for a reply back
Did you apply the lanoguard straight after using the rust neauturilser?
No I left it overnight. It says to leave it 24hrs before applying paint, and whilst lanoguard isnt paint I figured its similar.
You need to make an update
How many litres to dip an entire Defender in this stuff? Asking for a friend...
Co za Produkt.?
can anyone explain why rust conventer didn't turn blue/ black on brake calipers? i have used jenolite rust conventer and only in some places it turned dark blue and rest of calipers looks like they are "mould"
Either you have aluminium calipers, and therefore shouldn’t be “rusty” in the first place (more like a white, aluminium corrosion). Or it’s reacting with foreign contaminants on the caliper like dirt, old brake fluid etc.
@@TyredFormat i think they are cast iron, at least they looks like. Got one aftermarket and it looks like aluminum, totally different than 3 others.
Holding up?
I use a mallet and chisel
Rust converters don't work in salt area's. Doesn't really stop the rust. I've used alot of it..Try rust bullet products.
In the end salt roads wins either way you just slightly slow down the inevitable
Ummm, why not remove the tow ball first so you can get the inside done, too?
Pure laziness, really. But the Lanoguard will have got into the missed areas. Given how much I drowned it in!
Pure laziness, really. But the Lanoguard will have got into the missed areas. Given how much I drowned it in!
Can you use this on exhausts?
not a good idea : I think its flammable
"I don't like standing on my driveway, looking like a tit" 😆
Liked and subscribed
Due to brexit, very difficult(very expensive)to buy any of this in EU, a pitty.
We have Wurth rust converter in EU and instead of Lanoguard you can use lanolin oil.
I tested this kind of product for the MoD in 1985 and it was revolutionary, but they didn't buy it because of the cost. I bought 5 litres of that 661 and it was complete rubbish. Many lengthy conversations and in the end they did admit that they'd changed the resin component, but wouldn't do anything about it. I have plenty of pics that show just how bad it was. Anyway, if you ever buy this product again, buy the Würth product. It its truly excellent and the same consistency and result to the product that we test all those years ago. There are certain techniques that improve the result and I always use 3 coats before any paint and my results have been excellent. BTW, I would not leave it unpainted, but the Lanoguard (I use ACF-50, which is pretty much the same stuff) should keep it sealed in lieu of paint.
Im a huge fan of ACF-50, we use it in Motorsport and Aerospace stuff. Really good product. But very pricey! It helps the Lanoguard comes with a lot of the gear to spray it, and its slightly thicker consistency helps it stick better.
As for the 661, I had a really good experience with it. I work with various chemicals/resins in my job and its common for even the big guys (3M etc) to have bad batches, so maybe thats what happened.
Will try the Wurth next job I do, to compare!
@@TyredFormat Yes, it has a good rep, but it made a right mess of my Defender chassis. Shame I can't post a pic and show you. Würth is about £60/l as well. Don't stop brushing it, keep going, especially in the corners and similar. It has quite a high surface tension and needs to be pushed it to those places and generally well worked in everywhere. BTW, don't get any on a vinyl floor, it will react and stain permanently.
Ridiculous....
What a surprise, certainly have to get some of that.Gpx (Disco 3)