High Crankcase Pressure || Cleaning The PCV System || My Daily Driven Volvo 945
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Having issues with High Crankcase Pressure on my Volvo 945. I have noticed that the dipstick is blown out sometimes du to the high crankcase pressure. Probably, partly due to a clogged up PCV system, and in this video i go and get it cleaned out on this is a B230fk engine.
I don't expect this to solve my problem, but keeping this clean will certainly help.
We will do a Leak-Down test in a future video to see if we have compression leaking past the piston rings or maybe have some other type of problem that is causing this abnormally high crankcase pressure.
I don't recommend using silicone sealer in the place that I use it in the video, but this car has to keep its costs down so i didn't want to replace the entire hose that goes down into the crank housing, but if perfect is what you are looking for, that would be the "right" thing to do.
If you do use silicone, beware that it will probably be harder to remove the canister the next time around.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of BackmansGarage, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. BackmansGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BackmansGarage recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BackmansGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BackmansGarage. - Авто та транспорт
Riktig bra förklaring! Bara tummen upp 👍👍
Intressant, lärorikt och tydligt som alltid👍🏻 fortsätt så! Bra kanal.
Tackar 👍
Great footage, thank you!!
Tack för denna video! Borde göra detta jag med på min 740.
God jul & gott nytt år! 🎅
Great video! Very helpfull, by any chance do you know the size and width of yhe vacum line ?
sweet
Thanks, this video helped me a lot.
I have a problem with my 1993 Volvo 240. I replaced the small tube that connects to the intake manifold. It was completely clogged. But now the idle has risen to 1000/1100 RPM.
Why?
Check for leaks 👍
does this pcv system fit on the Volvo 740 gl 1989?
Mine is clean and New, I got a new OT, exhaust manifold and now my pcv is leaking again...
A bore scope off eBay would really help at $15
Here in the states we use kerosene much cheaper alternative to degreaser.
That might work better as well! I had to leave this overnight to fully dissolve everything inside. But as far as the price goes. Seems like kerosene is more expensive here than degreaser, at-least the degreaser that I used in this video. Maybe I will try that next year 🙂👍
Skulle du kunna visa hur man byter EGR ventil på B230F?
Jag är inte så mycket för EGR, den är pluggad på bla denna motorn i klippet, det var nog en av dom första sakerna jag tog bort så det är tyvärr inte aktuellt.
//Backman
@@BackmansGarage Okej! tack för svar.
@@BackmansGarage Vad är det för för- och nackdelar med att plugga EGRn?
väldigt lärorika videos! ska byta motor på min 944 fk till en ny fk, något speciellt å tänka på?
Tack! Jag tycker ju att man bör i alla fall se över alla packboxar, oljetråg, kopplingspaket och uttrampningslager och sånt tråkigt innan man skruvar i en ny motor så man slipper plocka ut den snart igen 👍
@@BackmansGarage allt i växellådsväg är nytt, tänkte på demontering å montering
Inget speciellt vad jag kan komma på i alla fall. Se till att alla jordpunkter är riktiga och att du har bra kontakt mellan växellåda och motor, alså där sprängkåpan möter motorblocket och att startmotorn också har bra kontakt mot sprängkåpan så kan man undvika massa spännande elfel.
@@tobbe3892 om du inte gjort de, kom ihåg att sätta svänghjulet på rätt ställe, dom hålen på utsidan svånghjulet ska vara över startmotorn,
@@tobbe3892 sen är de väl bara att mata på metodiskt å fint, kom ihåg å stötta motor när du släppet växellådsbalk, annars klämmer du fördelaren rätt fort
Can I do this with the engine still in the car?
Yes, but off-course it will be slightly more difficult. /Mattias
I used a joint adapter on the socket wrench. Didn't have to remove anything to reach the bolts that way 😊
Dunno why everyones being such a dick about this, thanks for the helpful video 👌
Lucky that you do not have the egr to install!
First thing i removed when i got the car 😄
Gonna be taking engine out..
Not worth it. That piece of junk PCV should be replaced anyway by a an adapter that goes directly into an oil catch can. There's is an 70 bucks after market option or DIY. I recently opened one of those things and there's basically nothing in it but a wall with a tiny 10mm hole that let's the oil fumes through. I'm gonna take the lower part of it to build my own adapter to run hoses out of it into a oil catch can. We'll see what German TÜV is gonna say to it regarding emissons but should be ok without excessive load and boost while testing.
engine is out, easy to replace parts and you cheap out and reuse old hoses. My God...
Thats right, there is another car that i would rater spend my money on.
Some people have more time I guess i replace parts when i can. I will be doing this on my daily it cracked 350K i guess it was time LOL
Some people have" Impartitus" where they can't part with$24.99 for a new canister.Should be seeing a therapist 4 sure!
Video clearly states: Clening the PCV, not replacing.
The video is intended for those who want to clean it. If you want to replace it then just do so ?
Taking the motor out for ONLY this is not worth it. There are only 2 12mm screws to take out and then it will slide out after a little shifting and turning which is annoying but doable.
That piece of junk PCV should be replaced anyway by an adapter with 2 hoses that go directly into an oil catch can. There's is an 70 bucks after market option or DIY. I recently opened one of those things and there's basically nothing in it but 2 chambers forming a narrow double wall that gets plugged with sludge.They are only connected by a tiny 10mm hole that let's the oil fumes through. I'm gonna keep the lower part of it to build my own adapter to run hoses out of it into the oil catch can. We'll see what the authorities here are gonna say to it regarding emissons but should be ok without excessive load and boost while testing.
No mention of the o-rings or the drain pipe. Ignorant post, leaving much to be desired... Nothing 🤣 n depth. And it doesn't even follow the service instructions for updating your breather box for this engine. And the Box should be cleaned with carb cleaner or something that takes the oil off completely, not degreaser.